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PRESENTING YOURSELF תוכנננ
展現自己

A Personal Image Guide
個人形象指南

women
女性

Mary Spillane
瑪麗·斯皮蘭

from the
從

Color Me Beautiful Organisation
為我美麗的組織上色

PRESENTING YOURSELF
展現自己

A Personal Image Guide for WOMEN
女性個人形象指南

To the millions of women we have had the honour to help feel more confident in making the most of themselves.
對於數以百萬計的女性來說，我們很榮幸能夠幫助她們更有自信地充分發揮自己的作用。

AN COUNCIL FL. No. 1292675 646.7 Author SPI TKC
佛羅裡達州議會。編號 1292675 646.7 作者 SPI TKC

First published in 1993 by Judy Piatkus (Publishers) Ltd 5 Windmill Street, London W1P 1HF
1993 年首次由 Judy Piatkus (Publishers) Ltd 出版 5 Windmill Street, London W1P 1HF

The moral right of the author has been asserted
作者的精神權利已得到維護

A catalogue record for this book is available from the British Library
本書的目錄記錄可從大英圖書館取得

ISBN 0-7499-1308-8
國際標準書號 0-7499-1308-8

Designed by Paul Saunders Illustrations by David Downton Photography by Jain Philpott Photographs on pages 41, 43, 45, 47, 49 and 51 by John Steward (See also Picture Credits on page 153 ) Hair and make-up by Martin Fletcher
設計：Paul Saunders 插圖：David Downton 攝影：Jain Philpott 第41、43、45、47、49 和51 頁上的照片，由John Steward 拍攝（另請參見第153 頁上的圖片來源）髮型和化妝：Martin Fletcher

Typeset by Create Publishing Services, Bath Printed and bound in Great Britain by Bath Press Colourbooks, Blantyre, Scotland
由巴斯 Create Publishing Services 排版由蘇格蘭布蘭太爾巴斯出版社 Colourbooks 在英國印刷和裝訂

Contents
內容

Bages!
包包！

Introduction.
介紹。

1 You are the Message
1 你就是訊息

2 The 'Right' Image .
2 「正確」的形象。

3 Terrific Every Day.
3 每天都很棒。

4 Start with Colour
4 從顏色開始

5 Working with Your Body
5 調整身體

6 A Wardrobe that Works.
6 實用的衣櫃。

7 Getting the Style and Fit Right
7 找到合適的款式和合身度

8 Power Polish.
8 強力拋光。

12 In the Public Eye
12 在公眾眼中

13 Choosing a Public Life
13 選擇公共生活

9 Fit for Success
9 適合成功

10 Presenting Yourself
10 自我介紹

Conclusion
結論

106

11 Your Image Across the Table.
11 你在桌上的形象。

112

124

133

. 144

Bibliography.
參考書目。

149

Picture Credits
圖片來源

Index
指數

151

153

154

Acknowledgements
致謝

thank my entire London staff for their tremendous support given during the frantic months preparing this book, and in particular the incomparable Veronique Henderson for her organisational wizardry and having the nerve to argue with me enough so that the final result is CMB's best; Sue Abbott for her critical editing, and Trevor Castleton, my joint MD, for running things so smoothly in my absence.
感謝我所有的倫敦員工在準備本書的幾個月裡給予的巨大支持，特別是無與倫比的 Veronique Henderson，她的組織能力以及與我充分爭論的勇氣，使得最終的結果是 CMB 最好的；感謝蘇·阿博特（Sue Abbott）的批判性編輯，感謝我的聯合醫學博士特雷弗·卡斯爾頓（Trevor Castleton）在我不在的情況下讓一切順利進行。

Thanks also to our lovely models: Kate Cameron, Liz Baker, Pauline Brandt and Ruth Brooks who proved all the key points so professionally and with such style.
也要感謝我們可愛的模特兒：凱特卡麥隆(Kate Cameron)、莉茲貝克(Liz Baker)、寶琳布蘭特(Pauline Brandt) 和露絲布魯克斯(Ruth Brooks)，她們如此專業、如此風格地證明了所有關鍵點。

Diane Williams of Marks and Spencer; Mark Binnington of Next Directory; Pamela Lewis of Ken Lane, South Moulton Street; The World Gold Council; Fabrice Karel; Gary of Joel & Son; and Bally Shoes - all respected colleagues who supported this book with the loan of their beautiful clothes and accessories. Plus, I am indebted to Martin Fletcher whose artistic hair and make-up skills I employ on all major CMB projects.
馬莎百貨 (Marks and Spencer) 的黛安威廉斯 (Diane Williams)； Next Directory 的 Mark Binnington；南莫爾頓街肯巷的帕梅拉·劉易斯；世界黃金協會；法布里斯·卡雷爾；喬爾父子公司的加里；和 Bally Shoes - 所有受人尊敬的同事都藉出了他們漂亮的衣服和配件來支持這本書。另外，我還要感謝 Martin Fletcher，我在所有主要的 CMB 專案中都採用了他的藝術髮型和化妝技巧。

Angie Michaels kept me alert on changes in US corporate image policies and practices and remains a dear friend as well as a most respected associate in image consulting.
安吉·邁克爾斯（Angie Michaels）讓我對美國企業形象政策和實踐的變化保持警惕，並且仍然是我的親密朋友以及形象諮詢領域最受尊敬的同事。

Thanks also to Steve DiAntonio and the CMB/USA team for crediting their European counterparts with welcome innovations to colour and image advice now being used by Color Me Beautiful around the globe.
也要感謝 Steve DiAntonio 和 CMB/USA 團隊，感謝歐洲同行在色彩和圖像建議方面的創新，目前已被 Color Me Beautiful 在全球範圍內使用。

To Judy Piatkus, Gill Cormode and Philip Cotterell of Piatkus Books for seeing the on-going potential of CMB ideas, and to Heather Rocklin for getting them into shape for publication.
感謝 Piatkus Books 的 Judy Piatkus、Gill Cormode 和 Philip Cotterell 看到了 CMB 想法的持續潛力，並感謝 Heather Rocklin 將這些想法付諸出版。

Finally, I must thank the entire team of CMB Image Consultants working in Europe, Africa, the Middle and Far East who continue to feed me with ideas for improving our services to meet the needs of today's women.
最後，我必須感謝在歐洲、非洲、中東和遠東工作的整個 CMB 形象顧問團隊，他們不斷為我提供改進服務以滿足當今女性需求的想法。

Introduction
介紹

- his book is for and about you and how you present yourself every day in your working life. How you look, how you behave and speak, comport yourself in meetings, give a presentation, is as important to your career advancement as your experience and capabilities. This book will help you find out if your image is working for or against you, and, in the latter instance, the many ways in which you can bring about improve- ments.
- 他的書是為你而寫的，是關於你的，以及你每天在工作生活中如何展現自己的。您的外表、舉止和說話方式、在會議中的舉止、演講，對於您的職業發展與您的經驗和能力同樣重要。本書將幫助你了解你的形像是否對你有利或不利，以及在後一種情況下，你可以採取多種方式進行改進。

A poor image is self-defeating. It gets in the way of you projecting your true qualities and abilities. Many of us may wish this wasn't the case, that we should rather be assessed only on our achievements, not on additional, superficial factors such as appearance. But it is a fact of business life today, that you are an essential tool in communicating your ideas. How you 'package' or present yourself speaks volumes about how you value yourself and respect others, about your sense of quality, creativity and professionalism.
糟糕的形象會弄巧成拙。它會妨礙你展現你的真實品質和能力。我們中的許多人可能希望事實並非如此，我們應該只根據我們的成就來評估我們，而不是根據外表等額外的、膚淺的因素。但當今商業生活的事實是，您是傳達想法的重要工具。你如何「包裝」或展現自己，充分說明了你如何評價自己和尊重他人，以及你的品質感、創造力和專業精神。

The advice I give is intended for women in large corporations as well as small enterprises, for women at the beginning of their careers, midway or returning after a break at home. It also attempts to cross national and cultural boundaries, and to be relevant for both profit-making and non-profit sectors.
我給的建議既適用於大公司的女性，也適用於小型企業的女性，適用於職業生涯初期、中途或在家休息後回歸的女性。它也試圖跨越國家和文化界限，並與營利和非營利部門相關。

YOUR PERSONAL IMAGE GUIDE
您的個人形象指南

This book is for women and about the challenges we have in presenting ourselves in the workplace. I love speaking to mixed audiences on the subject of image, especially to air the concerns both sexes have about
這本書是為女性寫的，講述了我們在工作場所展示自己時所面臨的挑戰。我喜歡與不同的聽眾談論形象主題，尤其是表達男女對形象的擔憂

PRESENTING YOURSELF
展現自己

dealing with each other. But both men and women also want advice on more personal matters that they are less willing to discuss in mixed groups: body shapes, grooming and the like. So, in the following chapters, woman-to-woman, I can give it to you straight from the hip. The men have their own companion guide about presenting themselves more confidently.
彼此打交道。但男性和女性都希望獲得有關他們不太願意在混合群體中討論的更私人問題的建議：體型、儀容等。因此，在接下來的章節中，我可以直接從女性到女性的角度向您講述這一點。男人們有自己的同伴指南，可以讓他們更有自信地展現自己。

This book explains why you are the message in business and public life, and how others read you. Whatever your image is today and no matter how well it may have worked for you thus far in your career, it might not be enough for you tomorrow, to project what's needed to help you succeed in new arenas.
這本書解釋了為什麼你是商業和公共生活中的主角，以及其他人如何解讀你。無論你今天的形像如何，也無論迄今為止它在你的職業生涯中對你來說有多有效，對你明天來說可能還不夠，無法預測出幫助你在新領域取得成功所需的東西。

You will learn how to develop an image that suits your present and possible future position, your lifestyle, and your own personality. Don't fear arbitrary prescriptions. There is no one winning formula: 'Buy this suit, wear this hairstyle, speak this way to be successful.' It is not that simple; nor is it difficult.
您將學習如何塑造適合您現在和未來可能的職位、生活方式和個性的形象。不要害怕武斷的處方。沒有一個成功的公式：“買這套衣服，留這個髮型，這樣說話才能成功。”事情沒那麼簡單；這也不難。

You will be actively involved in assessing your present image and how it measures up, whether you think yourself to be below, on a par with or even above your peers when it comes to projecting a confident, attractive image.
您將積極參與評估您目前的形象及其衡量標準，無論您認為自己在塑造自信、有吸引力的形象方面低於、等於或高於同齡人。

Learn what is special about you - and how to capitalise on your assets and play down any liabilities. Most women don't have perfect bodies, so we'll deal honestly with the challenges of needing to look your best, regardless of size. You will learn not only how to make the most of your present shape with clever camouflage tricks but also how to build healthy eating and exercise and, therefore, more energy into your busy life.
了解您的特別之處 - 以及如何利用您的資產並減少任何負債。大多數女性都沒有完美的身材，因此我們將誠實地應對需要展現最佳身材的挑戰，無論身材如何。您不僅將學習如何透過巧妙的偽裝技巧充分利用您目前的體形，還將學習如何建立健康的飲食和鍛煉，從而為忙碌的生活注入更多能量。

There are tips for handling yourself in meetings, and how to score points whether you are in the chair, a participant or presenting. Meetings are vital opportunities for you to show your capabilities, gain visibility and recognition.
這裡有一些在會議中如何處理自己的技巧，以及如何得分，無論你是作為主席、參與者還是演示者。會議是您展示能力、獲得知名度和認可的重要機會。

If the very thought of standing on your feet to speak in public leaves you weak at the knees, read how you can impress your audience so much with your image, that what you say will be even more authoritative and persuasive. Learn whether your voice is enhancing your presence or sending out wrong signals - fear, underconfidence, or weakness. Once you've assessed any problems, read how to resolve them, following advice that has worked for thousands of talented women like yourself.
如果一想到站起來在公共場合演講就讓你膝蓋發軟，請閱讀如何用你的形象給聽眾留下深刻的印象，這樣你所說的就會更加權威和有說服力。了解你的聲音是否增強了你的存在感或發出了錯誤的信號——恐懼、不自信或軟弱。一旦你評估了任何問題，請閱讀如何解決它們，遵循對成千上萬像你這樣的才華橫溢的女性有效的建議。

How appropriate is your image today for the industry you are in? Do you plan a career move soon that might require a different look? Read how you can and must fine tune your image throughout your career.
您今天的形象與您所在的行業有多合適？您是否計劃很快進行職業變動，可能需要不同的面貌？了解在整個職業生涯中如何能夠並且必須如何調整自己的形象。

Perhaps you are one of the increasing number of women chosen to be their organisation's spokesperson. Or perhaps you harbour dreams of a
也許您是越來越多被選為組織發言人的女性之一。或者也許你懷有一個夢想

INTRODUCTION
介紹

public life. Tips for the high-visibility/high-flyers will help you get your image sorted out before that important TV interview or selection speech.
公共生活。針對高知名度/高知名度人士的提示將幫助您在重要的電視採訪或選拔演講之前整理好自己的形象。

WRITING FROM EXPERIENCE
根據經驗寫作

How am I qualified to give such advice? I am an image consultant but also a business manager, strategic planner, speaker and trainer. This is career number three for me, the previous ones having been in government (US) and in management consulting. I have managed budgets of $50 million, directed staff numbering over 100 and am most proud of building from scratch a successful international organisation involving a consultant network of over 1,000. Like many readers, I am also a wife and mother, and in consequence have severe constraints on my personal time to get my own image together (despite it being my job to do so!).
我有什麼資格提供這樣的建議？我是一名形象顧問，同時也是一名業務經理、策略規劃師、演講者和培訓師。這是我的第三個職業生涯，之前的職業生涯是在政府（美國）和管理諮詢領域。我管理過 5000 萬美元的預算，指導過 100 多名員工，最自豪的是從零開始建立了一個擁有超過 1,000 名顧問網絡的成功國際組織。像許多讀者一樣，我也是一位妻子和母親，因此我的個人時間受到嚴格限制來整理自己的形象（儘管這是我的工作！）。

I share my background to show that in addition to consulting many organisations, top multi-nationals and small companies, I have had personal experience of working in business and understand first-hand the challenges encountered as a woman in getting one's image right. When I began my professional career in the 1970s women, in particular, had little idea how to dress and groom themselves to be taken seriously. Nor were there any mentors advising us at our schools, universities, or in the personnel departments that hired us. We were the New Women, and we had a lot to learn.
我分享我的背景是為了表明，除了諮詢過許多組織、頂級跨國公司和小公司之外，我還擁有在商業領域工作的個人經驗，並親身了解作為女性在樹立正確形象時遇到的挑戰。當我在 20 世紀 70 年代開始我的職業生涯時，女性尤其不知道如何穿著和打扮自己才能受到認真對待。我們的學校、大學或僱用我們的人事部門也沒有任何導師為我們提供建議。我們是新女性，我們有很多東西要學習。

I wince when I think of some of the outfits I put together when working as a lobbyist on Capitol Hill in Washington, and have no doubt that my appearance on many occasions prevented me from accomplishing what I intended. I looked very young for my age and was working in a predominantly male environment. But I was a serious professional and worked hard to prove it. I made no time for things as 'frivolous' as shopping for clothes or going to the hairdresser, let alone asked for advice on how I might develop a more effective image. Who could I have turned to for advice anyway? If I only knew then what I know now...
當我想起我在華盛頓國會山莊擔任說客時所搭配的一些服裝時，我不禁皺起眉頭，並且毫不懷疑我的出現在很多場合阻止了我實現我的意圖。就我的年齡而言，我看起來很年輕，而且在一個以男性為主的環境中工作。但我是一名認真的專業人士，並努力工作來證明這一點。我沒有時間去做像買衣服或去理髮店這樣「無聊」的事情，更不用說尋求關於如何塑造更有效形象的建議了。無論如何，我可以向誰尋求建議呢？如果我當時知道我現在所知道的事就好了…

IMAGE CONSULTING
形象諮詢

Coming to Europe in the early 1980s, I recognised the potential of a new service - image consulting - which had started in the US a few years previously. However, there was a problem: not only was 'image consulting' a new phenomenon but, while Americans might be mad keen on self-
20 世紀 80 年代初來到歐洲後，我意識到了幾年前在美國推出的一項新服務——形象諮詢的潛力。然而，存在一個問題：「形象諮詢」不僅是一種新現象，而且美國人可能瘋狂地熱衷於自我形象諮商。

PRESENTING YOURSELF
展現自己

improvement, Europeans were loathe to admit underconfidence about anything. My battle was to be uphill all the way.
儘管情況有所改善，但歐洲人不願承認對任何事情缺乏信心。我的戰鬥就是一路上坡。

That was 10 years ago. Today, political parties as well as blue-chip companies seek our advice at Color Me Beautiful. Average men and women no longer consider a session with an image consultant is any stranger than going to a beautician for a facial or to a health farm for a welcome retreat.
那是10年前的事了。如今，政黨和藍籌公司都在 Color Me Beautiful 尋求我們的建議。一般男性和女性不再認為與形象顧問會面比去美容師做臉部護理或去健康農場進行休養生息更奇怪。

The Color Me Beautiful network, of 1,000 specially-trained Image Consultants in 28 countries, is devoted to helping people feel more confident about themselves through the image they project. And it was their enthusiastic response that inspired my first book: The Complete Style Guide, written for women working in and outside the home, from teenagers to grandmothers.
Color Me Beautiful 網路由 28 個國家的 1,000 名經過專門培訓的形象顧問組成，致力於幫助人們透過他們所展現的形象對自己更加自信。正是她們的熱情回應啟發了我的第一本書：《完整風格指南》，這本書是為在家庭內外工作的女性（從青少年到祖母）而寫的。

My clients are also responsible for my taking time out to write a second book, this time about what it takes to look effective as well as attractive at work. After a seminar or personal consultation on how to develop an image, most of them take two or three key recommendations on board immediately. They might begin wearing better colours, try new eyeglasses or adopt a more flattering hairstyle. They win compliments from colleagues, and reinforcement from customers almost immediately, and this positive reaction spurs them on to learn even more about making the
我的客戶也要求我抽出時間寫第二本書，這本書是關於如何在工作中看起來有效率且有吸引力。在關於如何塑造形象的研討會或個人諮詢之後，他們中的大多數人立即採納了兩到三個關鍵建議。他們可能會開始穿著更好的顏色、嘗試新眼鏡或採用更討人喜歡的髮型。他們幾乎立即贏得了同事的讚美和客戶的支持，這種積極的反應激勵他們更多地了解如何製作

Successful women learn the tricks to look their best
成功女性學會如何展現最美的自己

INTRODUCTION
介紹

most of themselves. Their questions get deeper, more specific. They say they need a 'reference book on image', to which they can refer whenever a new situation arises or they are preparing for a career move. So, here it is.
大部分都是他們自己。他們的問題變得更深入、更具體。他們說，他們需要一本“形象參考書”，每當出現新情況或準備跳槽時，他們都可以參考這本書。所以，就在這裡。

Many clients return two or three times for a fine-tuning or a followup session to learn how to update their make-up or last year's wardrobe on a limited budget. Some ask for a personal shopping trip to see how to put CMB's advice into practice. There are few jobs which bring such satisfaction. We are in the business of self-esteem. We not only teach women how to dress, update their look, wear make-up more effectively, how to handle presentations and business/social occasions successfully; above all we give them the confidence to be themselves. For, as you will learn in this book, a successful image is not about people noticing your snappy suits or being dazzled by your accessories. It is about people noticing you first, almost unable to remember what you were wearing after you left but having the impression that you looked professional, attractive and successful.
許多客戶會回來兩三次進行微調或後續課程，以了解如何在有限的預算內更新他們的化妝品或去年的衣櫃。有些人要求進行一次個人購物之旅，看看如何將 CMB 的建議付諸實行。很少有工作能帶來如此滿足感。我們從事的是自尊的事業。我們不僅教導女性如何穿著、更新形象、更有效地化妝、如何成功處理簡報和商務/社交場合；最重要的是，我們讓他們有信心做自己。因為，正如您將在本書中了解到的那樣，成功的形象並不是人們注意到您時髦的西裝或被您的配件弄得眼花繚亂。這是關於人們首先註意到你，在你離開後幾乎記不起你穿什麼，但給人的印像是你看起來專業、有吸引力和成功。

Have I convinced you yet of the importance and value of a successful image? Read these testimonials from women who have been to CMB. They may have had doubts before their visit, but not any more:
我是否已讓您相信成功形象的重要性與價值？閱讀這些來自去過 CMB 的女性的感言。他們在訪問之前可能有疑問，但現在不再有疑問：

'The fact that eight months after getting my "image overhaul" I've been promoted is no coincidence. My boss actually mentioned my new appearance (he actually said "Great style!" three times during my appraisal). Many thanks from a grateful CMB devotee.'
「在進行『形像大改造』八個月後，我獲得了晉升，這一事實並非巧合。我的老闆實際上提到了我的新外觀（他在我的評估過程中實際上說了三遍“很棒的風格！”）。來自一位心懷感激的 CMB 愛好者的萬分感謝。

'For years I've focussed on the substance of my job, ignoring my style as irrelevant. How wrong I was. No wonder in the past when I looked a mess my presentations were a struggle. I'll follow your advice to the letter.'
「多年來，我一直專注於工作的實質，而忽略了無關緊要的風格。我錯了。難怪過去當我看起來一團糟時，我的演講就很困難。我會不折不扣地聽從你的建議。

'Your seminar knocked me for six. How was I so blind about the negative signals I was sending with my image? Your honesty was much appreciated. Within a week I've put all your key tips into play. Now I'm knocking them for six!'
「你的研討會讓我花了六塊錢。我怎麼對自己的影像發出的負面訊號如此盲目？非常感謝你的誠實。一週之內我就把你所有的關鍵技巧都付諸實現了。現在我要敲他們六分！

Now it's your turn.
現在輪到你了。

= 11

CHAPTER 1
第一章

You are the Message
你就是訊息

S top for a minute and ask yourself why you have bought this book? Perhaps a friend recommended it or maybe you were intrigued after flipping through. You may know someone who has been to Color Me Beautiful and has made changes that really worked for her.
停下來問自己為什麼要買這本書？也許是朋友推薦的，也許是你翻閱後感興趣的。您可能認識一個去過“讓我美麗”並做出了對她真正有效的改變的人。

Somewhere in you lurk questions about your personal image and the impact it is having on your career. How do you think you present yourself to the world? How do you think others judge you, particularly those who don't know you or who meet you for the first time? Have you ever stopped to think of what you want to project to others; which qualities you admire and would like others to immediately identify with you?
你內心的某個地方潛藏著關於你的個人形象及其對你職業生涯的影響的問題。您認為您如何向世界展示自己？您認為其他人如何評價您，尤其是那些不認識您或第一次見到您的人？你是否曾經停下來思考過你想向別人展示什麼？您欣賞哪些特質並希望別人立即認同您？

Imagine yourself having a coffee with a colleague at a café near the office. In comes the Managing Director of a competitive company for whom your colleague used to work. She joins you both for a few minutes. In that brief time, what impression do you think you made? If you wanted to look clever and creative how could you project that in a few minutes over coffee without being totally obnoxious and monopolising the conversation? How can others sense that you are reliable or efficient without a full report from your immediate boss? How can you look successful and 'going places' - without bragging about your achievements?
想像一下您自己和一位同事在辦公室附近的咖啡館喝咖啡。一家有競爭力的公司的總經理進來了，你的同事曾經在這家公司工作過。她和你們一起待了幾分鐘。在那短暫的時間裡，你認為你給人留下了怎樣的印象？如果你想顯得聰明又有創意，你怎麼能在喝咖啡的幾分鐘內表現出來，而不是完全令人討厭並壟斷談話呢？如果沒有直接上司的完整報告，其他人怎麼能感覺到你可靠或有效率？如何在不吹噓自己成就的情況下，讓自己看起來成功並「出人頭地」？

The answer is via your image. Your dress, your grooming, your voice and your behaviour tell people a lot about you within minutes of meeting. We all size each other up and make judgments about each other's values, backgrounds and capabilities, using such indicators. If you dress very safely, without flair, will people think you are creative? If your voice is hesitant, your eye contact fleeting, will you be dismissed as under- confident rather than successful? If your nails are bitten, will you project being a disciplined professional? If you drink fizzy cola at 10 in the
答案是透過你的圖像。在見面後的幾分鐘內，你的穿著、你的儀容、你的聲音和你的行為可以告訴人們很多關於你的資訊。我們都使用這些指標來衡量並判斷彼此的價值觀、背景和能力。如果你穿著很安全，沒有才華，人們會認為你有創意嗎？如果你的聲音猶豫不決，眼神交流轉瞬即逝，你會被認為缺乏自信而不是成功嗎？如果你的指甲被咬了，你會表現出自己是個遵守紀律的專業人士嗎？如果你晚上10點喝碳酸可樂

YOU ARE THE MESSAGE
你就是訊息

morning, will you look mature? How you look, how you speak, how you comport yourself sends out vital messages to say what you are about, how successful you already are and, to some extent, have the potential to be.
早安，你會顯得成熟嗎？你的外表、說話方式、行為舉止都會發出重要的訊息，告訴你你是什麼、你已經取得了多大的成功，並且在某種程度上，你有潛力取得成功。

HOW OTHERS SEE
其他人如何看待

- AND JUDGE - US
- 和法官 - 美國

Don't think for a minute that I am suggesting that you can learn a few tricks and fool everyone that you are someone that you are not. Your image needs to reflect who you are, or who you know you are capable of being. What you project should be what you are about. If you can't fulfil expectations your image will collapse around you. But this does not mean that any shortcomings you may have can't be overcome. If you are terrified of speaking in front of people you can learn how to deal with the stress, how to prepare and how to deliver a good presentation. If your dress is indifferent you can learn how to dress better, to look smarter. If your parents didn't teach you the finer points of dining etiquette, you can learn how to navigate your way through a five course meal in a five star restaurant. A successful image is honest but also makes the most of who you are and gives you the confidence to be yourself in any situation.
不要認為我是在建議你學習一些技巧並欺騙所有人，讓他們相信你不是一個人。您的形象需要反映您是誰，或者您知道自己有能力成為誰。你的計劃應該就是你的目的。如果你不能滿足期望，你的形象就會崩潰。但這並不意味著您可能存在的任何缺點都無法克服。如果您害怕在人們面前演講，您可以學習如何應對壓力、如何準備以及如何進行精彩的演講。如果你的穿著平平無奇，你可以學習如何穿得更好，看起來更聰明。如果您的父母沒有教您用餐禮儀的細節，您可以學習如何在五星級餐廳享用五道菜的餐點。成功的形像是誠實的，但也能充分展現你自己，讓你有信心在任何情況下都能做自己。

Recent research in the UK by Robert Half Associates: Survey of UK Personnel and Financial Directors, 1992; in the USA by Herbert Knoll and Clint Tankersley, University of Syracuse, 1990, shows that image makes or breaks your chances of getting a job as well as getting ahead. Chief Executive Officers, Personnel and Managing Directors in America and Europe concur that even to hope for serious consideration for a job you had better look the part. In the UK, 93 per cent of top decision- makers, and in the US 96 per cent, agreed that personal presentation was the key factor in gaining employment. In today's highly competitive job market just being qualified, better still experienced, simply isn't enough to get the job you want. Employers are looking for more. The more senior the person, the more he or she said image was vital to job success and advancement.
Robert Half Associates 最近在英國進行的研究：英國人事和財務總監調查，1992 年；錫拉丘茲大學赫伯特·諾爾 (Herbert Knoll) 和克林特·坦克斯利 (Clint Tankersley) 於 1990 年在美國發表的研究表明，形象決定了你獲得工作和取得成功的機會。美國和歐洲的執行長、人事部和董事總經理一致認為，即使希望得到一份工作的認真考慮，你最好看起來像這樣。在英國，93% 的高階決策者和美國 96% 的高階決策者都認為個人表現是就業的關鍵因素。在當今競爭激烈的就業市場中，僅僅具備資格、更好的經驗並不足以獲得您想要的工作。雇主正在尋找更多。職位越高的人，他或她越認為形象對於工作成功和晉升至關重要。

A study based upon three years of research by the Center for Creative Leadership found that more attention to image was vital for women trying to break through the ‘glass ceilings' that prevent them from reaching the top in their careers. Of the women ‘derailed' from the fast track, 35 per cent were told that their poor image accounted for their problems:
創意領導中心經過三年的研究發現，對於試圖突破阻礙她們達到職業生涯頂峰的「玻璃天花板」的女性來說，更專注於形象至關重要。在那些從快車道「脫軌」的女性中，35% 的人被告知她們的糟糕形像是造成她們問題的原因：

When we asked Robert Half Associates to survey 300 top UK Personnel and Finance Directors, to probe further on the importance of image in a woman's career, 93 per cent said that a woman's personal image was very
當我們要求 Robert Half Associates 對 300 名英國頂級人事和財務總監進行調查，進一步探討形像在女性職業生涯中的重要性時，93% 的受訪者表示，女性的個人形象非常重要。

PRESENTING YOURSELF
展現自己

or extremely important to her career development and success. This is borne out by a recent update by the Center for Creative Leadership on Breaking the Glass Ceiling, which cites an impressive image as a factor for success in the careers of women who were able to advance in pre- dominately male environments or in posts previously held by men. The overall image of top achieving women was ‘stylish, sophisticated, businesslike and commanding'.
或者對她的職業發展和成功極為重要。創意領導中心最近關於打破玻璃天花板的更新證實了這一點，該更新引用了令人印象深刻的形像作為女性職業成功的一個因素，這些女性能夠在男性占主導地位的環境中或在以前的職位上取得進步由男性持有。頂尖女性的整體形像是「時尚、精緻、務實、威嚴」。

THE WAY WE SEE OURSELVES
我們看待自己的方式

Our image affects not only how others perceive us but, equally important, how we perceive ourselves. When you look good you feel more confident. A positive image affects your self-esteem, you value yourself more and enjoy reinforcement from others. On days you don't bother about your appearance, you are more likely to retreat from opportunities to stand out, to shine.
我們的形像不僅影響別人如何看待我們，同樣重要的是，我們如何看待自己。當你看起來不錯時，你會感到更有自信。正面的形象會影響您的自尊，您會更重視自己並享受他人的強化。在你不關心自己外表的日子裡，你更有可能錯過脫穎而出、發光發熱的機會。

Your image affects your performance. If you look good - attractive, appropriate and fit - you get more recognition from others, not because of your clothes alone but because you look the part. Think about when you receive positive recognition at work: 'great presentation', 'you handled that situation well', 'you're looking fit', etc. Doesn't it make you feel great? If you feel that you performed well, have met expectations or surpassed them, don't you want to keep it up, do even better? This reinforcement process of a positive self-image is cyclical. A better image leads to improved self-esteem, which gives you more confidence, which encourages your performance, which earns you more recognition, which returns to bolster your self-esteem.
你的形象會影響你的表現。如果你看起來不錯——有吸引力、得體、合身——你就會得到別人更多的認可，不僅是因為你的衣服，而是因為你看起來很合適。想想當你在工作中得到正面的認可時：「出色的演講」、「你很好地處理了這種情況」、「你看起來很合適」等等。如果你覺得自己表現不錯，達到了預期或超越了預期，你不想繼續保持下去，做得更好嗎？這種正向自我形象的強化過程是週期性的。更好的形象會提高自尊，這會給你更多的信心，鼓勵你的表現，為你贏得更多的認可，從而增強你的自尊。

In our work as image consultants all too often we see the process working in reverse. Perfectly capable, talented and hard working women are stymied in their careers because their poor self-image and low self- esteem inhibit them from expressing themselves and getting the recognition they deserve. A negative image - dressing badly, poor grooming, being unfit, under-confident behaviour, lacking presence actually lead to a deterioration in performance and in some instances almost to paranoia. - can
在我們作為形象顧問的工作中，我們經常看到這個過程是相反的。能力出眾、有才華、工作努力的女性在職業生涯中會受到阻礙，因為她們糟糕的自我形象和低自尊阻礙了她們表達自己並獲得應有的認可。負面形象－穿著不當、儀容不整、不健康、行為不自信、缺乏風度實際上會導致表現惡化，在某些情況下甚至導致偏執。 - 能

This was illustrated in an experiment with two groups of female job applicants. Both groups of women were made up prior to the interviews but one group were told that an unattractive facial scar had been added when in fact they were made up without one, just like the other group. When they reported back from the interviews, those who thought they had a facial scar said that the interviewers were distant and put off by
對兩組女性求職者進行的實驗說明了這一點。兩組女性在接受採訪前都化了妝，但其中一組被告知臉部有一道難看的疤痕，而事實上她們在化妝時沒有疤痕，就像另一組一樣。當他們從採訪中得到回饋時，那些認為自己臉上有疤痕的人說，採訪者很疏遠，並且推遲了

YOU ARE THE MESSAGE
你就是訊息

their scars. The interviews went badly with those who thought they had a scar appearing less confident and more anxious than those who knew they had none.
他們的傷疤。訪談結果很糟糕，那些認為自己有傷疤的人比那些知道自己沒有傷疤的人顯得更不自信、更焦慮。

So, our appearance affects ourselves just as much as it affects others with whom we live, work and meet every day. What gets in the way of you feeling completely confident in yourself? What criticism have you taken from friends or colleagues about your dress, weight, skin, hair that has hurt you in the past? Have you tried to improve yourself, that is, your image, since starting your career? If not, can you afford to pull down the shutters and not deal with the barriers to your own success?
因此，我們的外表不僅影響我們自己，也影響我們每天生活、工作和見面的其他人。是什麼阻礙您對自己充滿信心？過去，你曾從朋友或同事那裡接受過哪些關於你的穿著、體重、皮膚、頭髮的批評，這些批評曾經傷害過你？自從入職以來，您是否嘗試過提升自己，即提升自己的形象？如果沒有，您是否能夠放下百葉窗而不去處理阻礙自己成功的障礙？

YOUR IMAGE AUDIT
您的形象審核

This book presents an opportunity for you to take a long hard look at yourself and to be honest about what aspects of your image are letting you down in your career. In the following chapters we will focus on your appearance and how you might learn to make more of yourself, but first let's see which aspects of your image you are satisfied with and where you need help.
這本書為你提供了一個機會，讓你認真審視自己，並誠實地了解你的形象的哪些方面在你的職業生涯中讓你失望。在接下來的章節中，我們將重點介紹您的外表以及如何學習讓自己變得更好，但首先讓我們看看您對自己形象的哪些方面感到滿意以及哪些方面需要幫助。

Tick how you rate yourself. A Image factor Liability On a par with peers Above average First-rate Quality of your voice Communication skills (written & verbal) Presentation skills Social skills Dining etiquette Eye contact Handshake URBAN COUNCIL PUBLIC LIBRARIES
勾選您對自己的評價。 A 形象因素責任與同儕相當高於平均一流的聲音品質溝通技巧（書面和口頭）演講技巧社交技巧用餐禮儀目光接觸握手市議會公共圖書館

PRESENTING YOURSELF
展現自己

3 Image factor Liability On a par with peers Above average First-rate Posture Fitness Grooming (hair, skin, hands, etc.) Dress/personal style Manners
3 形象因素責任與同儕相當高於平均一流的姿勢健身修飾（頭髮、皮膚、手等）著裝/個人風格禮儀

Give yourself three points for every category you have that is first rate, two points for every one you consider yourself to be above average and one point for every one where you are on a par with your peers. Obviously, you earn nothing for every liability.
每一個你認為自己是一流的類別給自己打三分，每一個你認為自己高於平均水平的類別給自己打兩分，每一個你認為自己與同齡人處於同一水平的類別打一分。顯然，每項負債你都一無所獲。

If you scored less than 8 points, your image is killing you. How you have lasted in your job is a mystery.
如果你的得分低於 8 分，你的形象就會毀了你。你是如何堅持工作的還是一個謎。

◆ If you scored between 9 and 12 points, you are Ms. Average who offends few but scores little with people who count in your career your current and future employers.
◆ 如果你的得分在 9 到 12 分之間，那麼你就是普通女士，很少得罪人，但在那些在你的職業生涯中算作你現在和未來雇主的人身上得分很少。

If you gave yourself 13 to 24 points, you have tried in some respects to excel but present an inconsistent image - good in some aspects but weak in others.
如果您給自己評分 13 到 24 分，則表示您在某些方面嘗試過出色，但表現出不一致的形象 - 在某些方面很好，但在其他方面卻很弱。

◆ If you scored 25 to 36 points, you know that your image is important and have no doubt done many things to work on improving yourself. You may have had help from parents who instilled the importance of manners, dining etiquette or being well-dressed. But other aspects you had to learn either through special training, reading, or by being observant. Well done!
◆ 如果你得到25到36分，你知道你的形像很重要，毫無疑問地做了很多事情來努力提升自己。您可能得到了父母的幫助，他們向您灌輸了禮儀、用餐禮儀或穿著得體的重要性。但其他方面你必須透過特殊訓練、閱讀或觀察來學習。幹得好！

You deserve to have a first-rate image, one that earns you the respect and appreciation of others and, most importantly, gives you the confidence to be yourself. That is what this book is about – making the most of who you are and presenting yourself in the best possible light, at whatever point you may have reached in your professional life. -
您應該擁有一流的形象，它可以為您贏得他人的尊重和讚賞，最重要的是，它可以讓您有信心做自己。這就是本書的主題——無論您在職業生涯中達到什麼階段，充分發揮自己的作用，以盡可能最好的方式展示自己。 -

YOU ARE THE MESSAGE
你就是訊息

FINE-TUNING
微調

You do need to be aware of how important it is to develop your image throughout your career. What works at one level, in one business, in one culture might not be appropriate or successful in another. The shrewd businesswoman assesses the intangible nature of new and different environments and makes the necessary adjustments not simply to fit in, but to succeed.
您確實需要意識到在整個職業生涯中發展自己的形像有多麼重要。在某個層面、一種企業、一種文化中行之有效的方法可能在另一種文化中並不合適或不成功。精明的女商人會評估新的和不同環境的無形本質，並做出必要的調整，不僅是為了適應，而是為了成功。

What follows are a few key events likely to occur in your career, any of which might be the major catalyst to do something positive to improve your image. All the necessary strategies for dealing with them are covered in greater detail in later chapters.
以下是您職業生涯中可能發生的一些關鍵事件，其中任何一個都可能成為採取積極行動來改善您形象的主要催化劑。處理它們的所有必要策略將在後面的章節中更詳細地介紹。

THE FIRST JOB INTERVIEW
第一次工作面試

What blood, sweat and tears go into that first CV. People pore over reference books, even take courses in presenting themselves on paper. But too few consider the importance of their personal image at a job inter- view.
第一份履歷中傾注了多少心血、汗水和淚水。人們仔細閱讀參考書，甚至參加在紙上展示自己的課程。但很少人在求職面試中考慮個人形象的重要性。

I can hear all you students and young women sighing, 'But image costs money!' Indeed it does, initially. So, if you don't own an appropriate outfit, and can't borrow one from a friend, then a bank loan is in order. In a survey of top recruiters and personnel directors, the key factors that create a favourable impression at an interview proved to be:
我能聽到你們所有的學生和年輕女性都在感嘆，“但形像是要花錢的！”最初確實如此。所以，如果你沒有合適的衣服，又不能跟朋友借，那麼銀行貸款是合適的。在對頂級招募人員和人事主管的調查中，在面試中創造良好印象的關鍵因素被證明是：

1. A smart suit 2. Looking fit and healthy 3. An attractive hairstyle 4. Being nicely made-up
1. 一套漂亮的西裝 2. 看起來健康健康 3. 一個有吸引力的髮型 4. 化個漂亮的妝容

In later chapters, you will learn how to select clothes to suit both you and your budget and how to handle yourself in interviews. But the important thing here and now is to appreciate how vital your personal image is in the competitive job market, particularly when, without experience, you are selling only yourself and your potential.
在後面的章節中，您將學習如何選擇適合您和您的預算的衣服以及如何在面試中處理自己。但此時此刻重要的是要認識到你的個人形像在競爭激烈的就業市場上有多麼重要，尤其是當你沒有經驗、只能推銷自己和潛力的時候。

YOUR FIRST SUPERVISORY JOB
您的第一份監督工作

This is your first opportunity to learn that the real challenges in business are sorting out the 'people problems' - from overseeing the processing pool to managing your former peers now that you are higher up the -
這是您第一次有機會了解業務中的真正挑戰是解決“人員問題” - 從監督處理池到管理您以前的同事，因為您現在的職位更高 -

PRESENTING YOURSELF
展現自己

corporate structure. Everyone knows it is your first chance at managing a team. Some will be nipping at your heels, attempting to undermine, but others will be genuinely rooting for you to succeed.
公司結構。每個人都知道這是你管理團隊的第一次機會。有些人會緊跟著你的腳步，試圖破壞，但有些人會真誠地支持你成功。

You are more likely to succeed if you are perceived to be working for the benefit of the team not just yourself. But you are not a team-player any more; you are the leader. And you need to convey your change in status subtly. This means looking more professional - no cardigans, only jackets; smart accessories colour co-ordinated to your outfit. Remember, too, that bare legs look unprofessional, and going without make-up looks unpolished. Set the standard for a smarter appearance for your entire team - be its members male, female or both.
如果你被認為是為了團隊的利益而不僅僅是為了自己而工作，那麼你就更有可能成功。但你不再是團隊合作者了；你是領導者。你需要巧妙地傳達你的身分變化。這意味著看起來更專業——沒有羊毛衫，只有夾克；智慧配件的顏色與您的服裝相協調。還要記住，裸露的雙腿看起來不專業，不化妝看起來不優雅。為您的整個團隊（無論是男性、女性還是兩者）設定更聰明的外觀標準。

Previously, you probably sat at the meeting table and waited for an opportunity to make your presence felt. Now you must set the pace, style and tone for your own meetings. Prepare, read, study everything you can in order to send the right messages to your team, as well as to those who had the confidence to promote you.
以前，您可能坐在會議桌旁，等待機會讓別人感覺到您的存在。現在您必須為自己的會議設定節奏、風格和基調。盡你所能地準備、閱讀、研究一切，以便向你的團隊以及那些有信心提拔你的人傳達正確的訊息。

MANAGING A LARGER SCOPE
管理更大的範圍

You've done so well that you are asked to take on broader and different responsibilities, but you still have lots to learn. Once the heady excite-
你做得很好，以至於你被要求承擔更廣泛和不同的責任，但你仍然有很多東西需要學習。一旦令人陶醉的興奮——

ment of the appointment recedes, panic can set in if you aren't prepared. Many at this stage foolishly try to bluff their way through; others determine to become the expert on everything, swotting up feverishly on every aspect of the new business. Neither route leads to success. Remember that people will need and want your leadership, so look in control while still welcoming help from your staff. Listen and learn. Without their co-operation you can't succeed.
約會的時間過去了，如果你沒有做好準備，恐慌就會出現。許多人在這個階段愚蠢地試圖透過虛張聲勢來度過難關。另一些人決心成為一切方面的專家，狂熱地研究新業務的各個方面。這兩條路都不會成功。請記住，人們需要並希望你的領導，因此在掌控一切的同時仍然歡迎員工的幫助。傾聽並學習。沒有他們的合作，你就不可能成功。

Your communication and presentation skills are vital at this stage in your career. If you haven't learned how to relax and enjoy speaking to larger groups it is essential to do so now. Written communication is important but you'll have significantly more influence if you can speak to your staff, get their input, and debate ideas effectively. See Chapter 11.
在您職業生涯的這個階段，您的溝通和表達能力至關重要。如果您還沒有學會如何放鬆並享受與更大的群體交談，現在就必須這樣做。書面溝通很重要，但如果您能夠與員工交談、獲取他們的意見並有效地討論想法，您的影響力就會大得多。參見第 11 章。

Even under pressure don't let your personal image slide. It is essential that you look on top of things. Remember to eat sensibly and set aside time for some form of exercise in your weekly diary. Visit your hairdresser each month and don't forget your make-up. Most of us look colourless, badly groomed, and tired without any.
即使在壓力下也不要讓你的個人形像下滑。著眼全局是很重要的。請記住合理飲食，並在每週日記中留出時間進行某種形式的運動。每個月拜訪你的美髮師，不要忘記化妝。我們大多數人看起來毫無生氣、沒有打扮、疲憊不堪。

Get around and meet your new teams where they work. Visit the shops or factory floor. Impromptu visits are often the best opportunities to meet the real brains in an organisation, the people who can actually explain how things work, what really happens. Occasional meetings with the
四處走動並在新團隊工作的地方與他們會面。參觀商店或工廠車間。即興訪問通常是結識組織中真正的大腦的最佳機會，這些人能夠真正解釋事情是如何運作的，到底發生了什麼。偶爾與

YOU ARE THE MESSAGE
你就是訊息

general staff are often better if in smaller groups and less formal than your management meetings. Encourage discussion by wearing more 'user-friendly' colours. See Chapter 4.
一般員工在較小的團體中通常會比管理會議更好，並且不那麼正式。透過穿著更「用戶友好」的顏色來鼓勵討論。參見第 4 章。

STARTING YOUR OWN ENTERPRISE
創辦自己的企業

More women than men today opt to start their own enterprises. Often they have left a traditional organisation out of a need for greater flexibility in juggling the taxing roles of mother and partner, along with pursuing a career. In addition to the increased freedom, few professional opportunities are as challenging or potentially rewarding as building a business from nothing. Even so, initially it can be exhausting, and you will need to keep a very cool head.
如今，選擇創辦自己的企業的女性多於男性。通常，她們離開傳統組織是因為需要更大的彈性，既要兼顧母親和伴侶的繁重角色，又要追求事業。除了增加自由度之外，很少有職業機會像白手起家一樣具有挑戰性或潛在回報。即便如此，一開始可能會讓人筋疲力盡，你需要保持冷靜的頭腦。

You need to project an innate confidence to everyone on whom the new venture depends, including your financial backers/bankers, suppliers, potential customers, and your initial staff. All must believe that your idea has real potential. You believe it but they need to as well, if you are to survive.
您需要向新企業所依賴的每個人表現出天生的信心，包括您的財務支持者/銀行家、供應商、潛在客戶和您的初始員工。所有人都必須相信您的想法具有真正的潛力。你相信這一點，但如果你想生存，他們也需要相信。

As an entrepreneur, you can have more freedom in your mode of dress back at the shop or office. But when dealing with outsiders, revert to traditional business dress to inspire confidence. You may now manufacture leotards, but you are advised not to wear them when you meet with your backers.
作為一名企業家，您在商店或辦公室的穿著方式上可以有更多的自由。但在與外人打交道時，請恢復傳統的商務服裝以激發信心。現在您可以生產緊身衣，但建議您在與支持者會面時不要穿著它們。

Most start-up ventures are launched on tight financing. The first three years rarely pay dividends, often only a modest salary for the principal. This is when you can start to look dated and a bit worn, because every bit of spare cash gets earmarked for other necessities. But when you are launching a new service or product you have to look as fresh as your idea. That doesn't necessarily mean expensive clothes - just touches that show you are a woman of the moment, that you know what makes the market tick, have your finger on the pulse of your customers.
大多數新創公司都是在融資緊張的情況下啟動的。前三年很少支付股息，通常只支付本金微薄的工資。這時你就會開始顯得過時、有點疲憊，因為每一點閒錢都被指定用於其他必需品。但是，當您推出新服務或產品時，您必須像您的想法一樣新鮮。這並不一定意味著昂貴的衣服——只是表明你是當下的女性，你知道是什麼推動了市場的發展，你的手指掌握了顧客的脈動。

CHANGING JOBS
換工作

You change jobs when you get fed-up with the one you have or seek a greater challenge in your career. Whatever your motivation, these moves always contain an element of risk. You leave familiar territory where you know the business, where the staff and contacts know you, and know your worth which, for better or worse, makes life easier.
當你厭倦了現有的工作或在職業生涯中尋求更大的挑戰時，你就會換工作。無論您的動機是什麼，這些舉動總是包含風險因素。你離開了熟悉的領域，在那裡你了解業務，員工和聯絡人都了解你，並且知道你的價值，無論好壞，這都會讓你的生活變得更輕鬆。

Changing jobs is one of life's most stressful experiences. You enter a new culture, need to learn your way. But most important, you need to sell yourself fast to make the transition as easy on yourself as possible.
換工作是人生中壓力最大的經驗之一。你進入新的文化，需要學習你的方式。但最重要的是，您需要快速推銷自己，以使自己盡可能輕鬆地完成過渡。

PRESENTING YOURSELF
展現自己

You need to understand the culture and style of the organisation before you even go for an interview.
在參加面試之前，您需要了解該組織的文化和風格。

If possible, visit the lobby during a working day and see what people look like. Talk to anyone you know who has contacts within the new company, to try and get a feel for the environment. Find out not just what's in the annual report but what's in the press, who are their competitors and what are their present priorities.
如果可能的話，在工作日參觀大廳，看看人們的樣子。與您認識的在新公司有聯繫的人交談，嘗試了解環境。不僅要了解年度報告中的內容，還要了解媒體上的內容、他們的競爭對手是誰以及他們目前的優先事項是什麼。

To get the job, you need to look and behave as if you are already a part of that particular culture. All employers are looking for people to fit in, not to stick out.
為了得到這份工作，你的外表和行為都需要表現得好像你已經是那個特定文化的一部分。所有雇主都在尋找能夠融入的人，而不是脫穎而出的人。

Once there, you'll want to win as many supporters as possible while still projecting the authority of your position. Avoid being a clone of your predecessor; be your own person while taking care not to ruffle too many feathers. Set the tone early on, regarding how you like to deal with staff, and higher executives. peers
一旦您到達那裡，您將希望贏得盡可能多的支持者，同時仍彰顯您職位的權威。避免成為前任的克隆人；做你自己，同時注意不要激怒太多人。儘早確定你喜歡如何與員工和高階主管打交道的基調。同行

If your career is at the crossroads and you are considering a bold move, read this book carefully and you will learn everything you need, not only to win a terrific new position but to establish yourself quickly as a valued asset to the company.
如果你的職業生涯正處於十字路口，並且正在考慮採取大膽的行動，請仔細閱讀這本書，你將學到你需要的一切，不僅可以贏得一個了不起的新職位，而且可以迅速將自己打造成公司的寶貴資產。

RETURNING TO WORK
重返工作崗位

Having taken some time out from traditional work you no doubt harbour great anxieties about being accepted back into the 'real world'. Many women, who seek new challenges after raising a family, quickly find out how much things have changed in their absence.
從傳統工作中抽出一段時間後，您無疑會對被接納回到「現實世界」懷有極大的焦慮。許多在養育家庭後尋求新挑戰的女性很快就會發現，在她們不在的情況下，事情發生了多大的變化。

The technological changes are mind-blowing enough, but you can deal with those by taking a refresher course offered through your local Adult Education programme. The real problem for woman-returners is that they can look 'out of date'. A personal image that was considered very acceptable even three years ago, can look very dated in today's offices. Observe working women on their way to work - notice how they are dressing today. What's changed? You will no doubt see that their hairstyles and accessories are different, along with the more significant changes in clothes.
技術變革足以令人興奮，但您可以透過參加當地成人教育計畫提供的進修課程來應對這些變化。對於女性回歸者來說，真正的問題是她們看起來「過時」。即使在三年前，個人形象還被認為是非常可接受的，但在今天的辦公室裡卻顯得非常過時。觀察上班路上的職業婦女－注意她們今天的穿著。發生了什麼變化？毫無疑問，你會發現他們的髮型和配件有所不同，還有服裝上更顯著的變化。

Make your hair and make-up the first priorities for change, before you have that all-important interview. During spells at home, most women relax their grooming routines in lieu of more pressing matters, but the working world demands a certain polish. While investing in a new hairstyle, ask for instructions on how to take care of it yourself. And learn how to revise your make-up, using the most flattering colours and techniques to suit vou
在進行最重要的面試之前，將頭髮和化妝作為改變的首要任務。在家裡的一段時間裡，大多數女性都會放鬆她們的梳妝打扮，而不是處理更緊迫的事情，但職場需要一定的修飾。在投資新髮型時，請詢問如何自己打理髮型的說明。並學習如何修改您的妝容，使用最討人喜歡的顏色和技巧來適合您

20 20

YOU ARE THE MESSAGE
你就是訊息

Assume you will need one new 'high confidence' outfit for your interview. Chapters 4, 5 and 6 contain lots of ideas about selecting one that will not only make you look terrific but also be versatile in working with other items you already have or will purchase later.
假設您在面試時需要一套新的「自信」服裝。第 4、5 和 6 章包含了許多關於選擇一件不僅能讓你看起來很棒，而且能與你已經擁有或以後購買的其他物品搭配使用的想法。

Above all, keep things in perspective. You are a talented woman with plenty of managerial skills to apply once back in the traditional working world. You haven't been 'out of work' while at home, but simply working for different rewards. So get your image into shape by looking professional, and show them that you mean business.
最重要的是，要正確看待事情。您是一位才華橫溢的女性，擁有豐富的管理技能，可以在回到傳統職場後運用。在家時你並沒有“失業”，而只是為了不同的回報而工作。因此，透過看起來專業來塑造你的形象，並向他們表明你是認真的。

REDUNDANCY
冗餘

In recent years, few of us have escaped the impact of the economic recession that has plagued most developed countries. We've all known someone, perhaps in our immediate family circle, who has been devastated by being made redundant. We may also have been made redundant ourselves. Even though you can logically explain why you lost your job, such reasoning often does little to save your self-esteem.
近年來，我們很少有人能逃脫困擾大多數已開發國家的經濟衰退的影響。我們都認識某個人，也許是在我們的直系親屬圈子裡，他因為被裁員而感到沮喪。我們自己也可能被裁員。儘管你可以合乎邏輯地解釋你失業的原因，但這種推理通常對挽救你的自尊沒什麼幫助。

Periods of being out of work can be liberating or they can be stressful. Much, of course, depends on your financial security. Also, the change of lifestyle often brings physical changes. Many redundant workers and their employers have sought help from CMB consultants to coach them in handling interviews. We notice that many gain or lose a lot of weight, so that their clothes no longer fit properly, but the last thing these people need to hear is that they must invest in a new suit, that fits.
失業的時期可以是自由的，也可以是有壓力的。當然，這很大程度取決於您的財務安全。此外，生活方式的改變往往會帶來身體上的改變。許多裁員和他們的雇主向 CMB 顧問尋求幫助，指導他們如何處理面試。我們注意到許多人體重增加或減輕，因此他們的衣服不再合身，但這些人最不需要聽到的是他們必須投資一套合身的新西裝。

If redundancy has hit you, try to keep your fitness up. Here's a great opportunity to improve your physical appearance as well as your spirits, so take up the gauntlet and get active. An active body keeps the mind active. You will enter those crucial job interviews looking less beleaguered, more energised. See Chapter 9 for more encouragement.
如果裁員對你造成了打擊，請嘗試保持健康。這是一個改善你的外表和精神的好機會，所以接受挑戰並積極活動吧。活躍的身體使頭腦保持活躍。在參加那些重要的工作面試時，你會顯得不那麼困擾，更有活力。請參閱第 9 章以獲得更多鼓勵。

CHAPTER 2
第二章

The 'Right' Image
「正確」的形象

oday, we women are bombarded with advice about how we should show attractive young model girls wearing trendy but devastatingly short or tight outfits that could be justifiably cited as sexual harassment by male colleagues if you wore them to the office. Real women in real organisations know that dressing in a way that is too provocative gets you nowhere but in trouble - and can make you look ridiculous. Why, then, do the magazines insist that this is how we should dress for work?
今天，我們女性會收到大量建議，告訴我們應該如何展示年輕漂亮的模特兒女孩，她們穿著時髦但極短或緊身的衣服，如果你穿著它們去辦公室，可能會被男同事合理地稱為性騷擾。真正組織中的真實女性都知道，穿著過於挑釁只會給你帶來麻煩，而且會讓你看起來很可笑。那麼，為什麼雜誌堅持我們應該這樣穿上班呢？

Last year, a leading British magazine for working women had a relaunch featuring a beautiful teenager with long blonde hair, and wearing a short, red, 'begging for a hug', knit dress. As striking as the image was, did they really think women who are managing men or have boardroom ambitions should dress like that? The magazine defended itself by saying that the image was one that many working women would like for the office.
去年，英國一家領先的職業女性雜誌重新推出了一個美麗的少女，她有一頭金色的長髮，穿著一件紅色的「乞求擁抱」針織短裙。儘管形象令人震驚，但她們真的認為管理男性或有董事會野心的女性應該這樣穿嗎？該雜誌為自己辯護說，這張照片是許多職業婦女喜歡的辦公室形象。

Lots of women, if given the option, would like to wear tracksuits or jeans to the office but know they would not last a minute if they did. However, in America, a new craze for 'Casual Days' is taking hold in many companies. Once weekly or monthly, staff wear what they like. Many take great liberties and sport tracksuits, shorts and well-worn jeans. The jury is still out on the benefits of relaxing corporate dress- codes, but women who are keen on their career advancement are advised not to hurt their chances by taking too great liberties on company 'casual days'.
許多女性，如果可以選擇，願意穿運動服或牛仔褲去辦公室，但知道如果這樣做的話，她們一分鐘都堅持不了。然而，在美國，許多公司正在掀起一股新的「休閒日」熱潮。每週或每月一次，員工穿著自己喜歡的衣服。許多人非常自由，穿著運動服、短褲和破舊的牛仔褲。對於放寬公司服裝規範的好處，目前尚無定論，但建議熱衷於職業發展的女性不要在公司的「休閒日」過於隨意，從而損害自己的機會。

Few industries, even female-dominated ones, allow a woman to dress simply as she likes, although standards of work clothing for women only became a serious consideration about 20 years ago, post 'Liberation',
很少有行業，甚至是女性主導的行業，允許女性簡單地穿著自己喜歡的衣服，儘管女性工作服裝的標準直到大約 20 年前“解放”後才開始認真考慮，

THE 'RIGHT' IMAGE
「正確」的形象

and particularly in the 1980s, when more women than ever opted for careers outside the home or, indeed, were obliged by financial commitments to enter the workplace.
尤其是在 20 世紀 80 年代，選擇家庭以外的職業的女性比以往任何時候都多，或者事實上，她們迫於財務承諾才進入工作場所。

As increasing numbers of women now ascend to positions of power, we are told we can take a few more liberties. But look at any woman holding a boardroom post or a high political office and you will usually see the most conventional, classic business image. These women got to their present positions because they played safe, because they thought professional every time they bought clothing or accessories. Even so, there are variations to the classic suit that are not only acceptable but quite definitely preferable. While I could never recommend long flowing hair, mid-thigh hemlines and clinging knits for a successful business image, there are countless options in colour, style and accessories to make your working clothes more enjoyable and interesting than the array of uniforms that might be hanging in your wardrobe.
隨著越來越多的女性登上權力職位，我們被告知我們可以採取更多的自由。但看看任何一位擔任董事會職務或擔任高階政治職務的女性，你通常會看到最傳統、最經典的商業形象。這些女性之所以能達到目前的地位，是因為她們謹慎行事，因為她們每次購買衣服或配件時都認為自己很專業。即便如此，經典套裝的一些變體不僅可以接受，而且絕對更可取。雖然我絕對不會推薦飄逸的長髮、大腿中部的裙擺和貼身的針織品來打造成功的商業形象，但在顏色、款式和配飾上有無數的選擇，可以讓你的工作服比懸掛的一系列制服更令人愉快和有趣在你的衣櫃裡。

Before we get down to specific details, let's consider what is meant by a 'corporate image', how that relates to you in the workplace, and how you need to respond in order to climb the corporate ladder.
在我們討論具體細節之前，讓我們先考慮一下「企業形象」的含義，它與您在工作場所的關係，以及您需要如何應對才能在公司晉升。

THE INDUSTRY, THE IMAGE
行業、形象

The business of image is integral to every organisation. Whether it is a multi-national conglomerate or a single-issue, non-profit group, a clear corporate image is essential for communication with customers, clients and the organisation's many constituencies. Without such a clearly defined image, a trader has difficulty projecting what the organisation is all about, what it offers and where it is going.
形象業務是每個組織不可或缺的一部分。無論是跨國集團或單一議題的非營利組織，清晰的企業形象對於與顧客、客戶和組織的眾多支持者的溝通至關重要。如果沒有如此清晰的形象，交易者就很難預測組織的全部內容、提供的服務以及發展方向。

Consider some of the best-known, household names like Sony, Coca- Cola, Virgin, and MacDonald's. You can visualise their branding ... MacDonald's golden arches; the red and white Coke cans. Customers can easily identify them on the high street, and in the supermarket. Other image statements are the company brochures, its advertising, the packaging of its products, its offices, factories and headquarters and, in some companies, the staff uniforms. All of these images add up to a composite picture of what the company is and where it is going.
考慮一些最知名、家喻戶曉的品牌，如索尼、可口可樂、維珍和麥當勞。你可以想像他們的品牌…麥克唐納的金色拱門；紅色和白色的可樂罐。顧客可以在大街和超市輕鬆識別它們。其他形象陳述包括公司宣傳冊、廣告、產品包裝、辦公室、工廠和總部，以及某些公司的員工製服。所有這些圖像加起來就構成了一幅公司概況和發展方向的綜合圖景。

YOUR CORPORATE IMAGE
您的企業形象

Think of the buzz words used to describe your company or organisation. Maybe you have played a part in developing some of the corporate communication materials, the brochures or advertising. Or possibly you train
想想用來描述您的公司或組織的流行語。也許您參與了一些企業傳播材料、小冊子或廣告的製作。或者你可能訓練

23 23

PRESENTING YOURSELF
展現自己

new personnel in the corporate culture. What is your company trying to project to the outside world?
企業文化中的新進員工。貴公司想向外界展示什麼？

If your company says that its products are top quality but its service representatives dress in shabby, ill-fitting suits, will the claim be as believable as when those same reps are well-groomed and more presentable? If your services really are professional but the trainer you send to conduct a pilot course doesn't wear a suit, will you have the authority you hoped for with that client? If you say that your bank is really friendly, that people can come in and discuss their problems with your staff, yet most are dressed like police officers in navy suits and white shirts, do you think that invites people to share their problems and feel they are getting a friendly welcome? If you want to project that you are a creative and forward-thinking company, should your staff all look like clones of each other? Is your claim of reliability believable if your marketing managers look too trendy?
如果你的公司聲稱其產品品質一流，但其服務代表卻穿著破舊、不合身的西裝，那麼這種說法是否會像這些代表衣著整齊、儀表堂堂時一樣可信呢？如果你的服務確實很專業，但你派去進行試點課程的培訓師不穿西裝，你能在客戶面前獲得你所希望的權威嗎？如果你說你的銀行真的很友好，人們可以進來與你的員工討論他們的問題，但大多數人都穿著海軍服和白襯衫像警察一樣，你認為這是否會邀請人們分享他們的問題並感受到他們的存在？如果您想展現自己是一家富有創造力和前瞻性的公司，您的員工是否應該看起來像彼此的克隆人？如果您的行銷經理看起來太時髦，您所聲稱的可靠性是否可信？

Many companies are increasingly aware of the importance of getting their image right, and have turned to CMB for advice on how their staff could make a better impression on clients and customers. Often there's a catalyst for change: a new management team comes in; a company wants to expand its export markets; or a department gets reorganised; companies and corporate cultures merge.
許多公司越來越意識到建立正確形象的重要性，並向 CMB 尋求建議，了解其員工如何為客戶和消費者留下更好的印象。變革往往有一個催化劑：新的管理團隊上任；一家公司想要擴大其出口市場；或部門進行重組；公司和企業文化融合。

The following are a few examples of organisations going through a transition who considered the image of their staff needed some improvement.
以下是一些正在經歷轉型的組織的例子，這些組織認為其員工的形象需要一些改進。

Discussing how best to reflect the company's image can be a great team-building exercise
討論如何最好地反映公司形象可能是一個很好的團隊建立活動

24 24

THE 'RIGHT' IMAGE
「正確」的形象

GROOMING WOMEN FOR THE TOP
為女性培養上層之才

Wanting to make more of the potential talents of their women, an international Bank designed a week-long course called Career Skills Development especially for female middle managers keen for a long-term career with the Bank. The week was (and still is five years later) a carefully designed potpourri of career planning workshops, role-plays to act out those difficult but typical situations with colleagues and supervisors, problem-solving with case studies, presentation skills, networking and negotiation skills, as well as image.
一家國際銀行希望更多地發揮女性的潛在才能，專門為渴望在銀行長期工作的女性中階管理人員設計了為期一周的課程，名為「職業技能發展」。這一週（五年後仍然如此）是精心設計的職業規劃研討會、與同事和主管一起表演困難但典型情況的角色扮演、透過案例研究解決問題、演講技巧、網絡和談判技巧的大雜燴，以及圖像。

CMB were asked in because the Bank felt the women were damaging their chances for promotion and higher management jobs simply because of the way they dressed. We come in halfway through the course with the good news for these women, that they can 'fake it until they make it'. That's right: if their image is great, makes them look confident, capable, worth listening to, people will give them a hearing. That applies to you, too. The right look, coupled with a confident voice and matching behaviour or body language can win respect immediately.
CMB 被邀請加入是因為銀行認為女性僅僅因為穿著方式就損害了她們晉升和擔任高階管理職位的機會。課程進行到一半時，我們為這些女性帶來了好消息，即她們可以「假裝成功，直到成功」。沒錯：如果他們的形像很棒，讓他們看起來自信、有能力、值得被傾聽，人們就會傾聽他們的聲音。這也適用於你。正確的外觀，加上自信的聲音和匹配的行為或肢體語言可以立即贏得尊重。

Women love the advice, particularly when I tell them they should not look like clones of their male colleagues. Certainly, banking is serious business but women need to dress like women. Breakfast focus groups I've held with financial and personnel directors confirm that men feel uncomfortable with women who don't dress differently from men in business. They concur that women need to look smart, but urge them to still be women. Dressing like a woman in banking does not mean pink suits, voluminous hairstyles and heavy perfume. Be colourful, but keep your suits neutral, saving the colour for your blouses. Have an attractive hairstyle, but not one that is distracting. Smell fresh and clean but don't overpower any meeting with a scent so pervasive that it interferes with the work at hand.
女性喜歡這個建議，尤其是當我告訴她們不應該看起來像男性同事的克隆人時。當然，銀行業是嚴肅的行業，但女性需要穿得像女性。我與財務和人事主管舉行的早餐焦點小組證實，男性對穿著與商務男性沒有區別的女性感到不舒服。他們同意女性需要看起來聰明，但敦促她們仍然是女性。穿得像銀行業女性並不意味著粉紅色的套裝、濃密的髮型和強烈的香水。色彩繽紛，但保持西裝中性，保留襯衫的顏色。擁有一個有吸引力的髮型，但不要讓人分心。聞起來清新乾淨，但不要讓任何會議都因為氣味太瀰漫而影響手頭上的工作。

FEMININE OR SEXY?
女性化還是性感？

Too often women shoot themselves in the career foot by taking liberties with their image at work. Young, unattached women in their twenties, in particular, often confuse the workplace with the disco or wine bar and come to work dressed as if they are ready for a 'hot date'.
女性常常因為在工作中隨意改變自己的形象而在職業生涯中搬起石頭砸自己的腳。尤其是二十多歲的年輕單身女性，常常將工作場所與迪斯可舞廳或酒吧混為一談，她們來上班時打扮得好像準備好一場「熱門約會」一樣。

Public Relations is dominated by women professionals. It is a fast- paced business that requires lateral thinking and good communication skills both of which many talented women possess. But several PR companies have despaired about their female staff looking unprofessional
公共關係領域以女性專業人士為主。這是一個快節奏的行業，需要橫向思維和良好的溝通技巧，而許多才華橫溢的女性都具備這兩點。但一些公關公司對其女性員工看起來不專業感到失望

PRESENTING YOURSELF
展現自己

left This look is too sexy for business. The more you show the less authority you have. That goes for not just the obvious things like your neckline, but also your arms and legs. Avoid dangling earrings, bangle bracelets, long-loose hair and stilettos if you want to be taken seriously
左這個造型對商務來說太性感了。你表現得越多，你的權威就越少。這不僅適用於領口等明顯的地方，也適用於你的手臂和腿。如果你想被認真對待，請避免懸掛耳環、手鐲、長髮和細高跟鞋

right The same simple shift dress can work for the office if selected in a longer length and always worn with a jacket
右如果選擇較長的長度並始終與夾克搭配，同樣簡單的直筒連身裙也可以適合辦公室

and sending all the wrong signals to both One such company asked us to make over their entire staff - from the receptionists to the Managing Director. Without exception, all the staff looked attractive and trendy in the latest fashions. With an average age of 27, most were trim and wore short Lycra skirts; there were also plunging necklines, flowing hairstyles, dangling earrings, and knockout perfume. I told them that a lot of the effort they were putting into their accounts was being discounted and undervalued because they looked too sexy. If their clients were men, many would be wondering how high the skirt would rise by the end of the meeting, rather than concentrating on a business deal. If their clients were women, they would probably be resented. As for the company itself, busy professionals want people working for them to look as if their priorities are with the company, not with maintaining a fashionable, sexy image. There is a huge difference between looking professionally attractive – pleasant and respected by both sexes - and looking downright sexy and distracting. -
並向雙方發出所有錯誤信號其中一家公司要求我們改造他們的整個員工 - 從接待員到總經理。無一例外，所有的工作人員都穿著最新的時裝，看起來很有吸引力、很新潮。大多數人的平均年齡為 27 歲，身材修長，穿著萊卡短裙；還有深V領口、飄逸的髮型、垂墜的耳環和迷人的香水。我告訴他們，他們在帳戶上投入的許多努力都被打了折扣，被低估了，因為他們看起來太性感了。如果他們的客戶是男性，許多人會想知道在會議結束時裙子會升多高，而不是專注於商業交易。如果他們的客戶是女性，他們可能會遭到怨恨。至於公司本身，忙碌的專業人士希望為他們工作的人看起來好像他們的首要任務是公司，而不是保持時尚、性感的形象。看起來具有職業魅力（令人愉快並受到男女尊重）與看起來非常性感和分散注意力之間存在巨大差異。 -

clients and the media.
客戶和媒體。

The women were advised to concentrate on better fit and quality clothes. Fewer items in their wardrobe, of better quality and style, would be far more effective than a lot of trendy separates. All their skirts should have at least one inch 'give' so they didn't cling or rise so much when the women walked or were seated. Body suits should have necklines no lower than the top of the armpit, and always be covered with a jacket
建議女性集中精力購買更合身、品質更好的衣服。他們衣櫃裡的單品越少，品質和款式越好，比許多時髦的單品效果好得多。她們所有的裙子都應該有至少一英寸的“間隙”，這樣當女性行走或坐下時，裙子就不會粘住或升起太多。連身衣的領口應不低於腋窩頂部，並始終用夾克覆蓋

THE RIGHT
正確的

for client meetings. Light denier hosiery, previously abandoned by all in de summertime, was decreed a must. Finally, they were advised that high-heels, trendy platforms or Doc Martens should be replaced by stylish court-shoes or medium-heeled pumps.
用於客戶會議。以前在夏季被所有人拋棄的淺旦襪子，如今被規定為必備品。最後，他們被建議用時尚的宮廷鞋或中跟淺口鞋取代高跟鞋、時尚厚底鞋或 Doc Martens 鞋。

When we had a review some months later, all reported how much easier it was to get down to business, negotiate fees and gain agreement on account plans now that they were so conspicuously ‘professional'.
幾個月後，當我們進行審查時，所有人都報告說，既然他們如此“專業”，那麼開始做生意、談判費用和就帳戶計劃達成一致是多麼容易。

DIFFERENTIATING THE MANAGEMENT
管理差異化

In the hotel industry, many staff are uniformed. The job of selecting the best styles and colour combinations to suit the myriad of staff and the different positions is very challenging, so CMB are often asked to advise on colours that are flattering to most people, and project friendliness as opposed to projecting authority, as well as which styles are generally becoming
在旅館業，很多員工都穿著制服。選擇最佳款式和顏色組合來適應眾多員工和不同職位的工作非常具有挑戰性，因此 CMB 經常被要求提供適合大多數人的顏色建議，並表現出友善而不是表現出權威，因為以及哪些風格正在流行

One international hotel group prides itself on the wholesome values and strong ethical culture of its American founders. Despite being one of the world's largest hotel operators, the company's philosophy is based on quality, service and friendliness. The staff are there to take care of customers and to have fun doing it,' explained the Chairman. I was asked to deliver a seminar on personal image for the managers of the group's European, African and Middle East Hotels at a sales conference in Vienna.
一家國際酒店集團以其美國創始人的健康價值觀和濃厚的道德文化而自豪。儘管是世界上最大的酒店營運商之一，該公司的理念仍以品質、服務和友善為基礎。工作人員在那裡照顧顧客並享受其中的樂趣，」主席解釋道。我被要求在維也納的一次銷售會議上為該集團歐洲、非洲和中東酒店的經理舉辦一場關於個人形象的研討會。

After my presentation, it struck several of the managers that some of their key people didn't look as good as the front desk staff, who all wore smart uniforms. Some wore the same uniforms as junior staff and regularly ran into difficulty with business clients who insisted on seeing the top person' only to be told that they were already doing just that.
在我的演講結束後，幾位經理驚訝地發現，他們的一些關鍵人員看起來不如前台工作人員，他們都穿著漂亮的製服。有些人穿著與初級員工相同的製服，經常會遇到一些堅持要見高層人員的商業客戶，結果卻被告知他們已經在這樣做了。

The London and Amsterdam hotels then booked seminars for their management teams, each presenting different challenges. In London, the managers looked too severe and boring. They had to be reminded that they were in the hospitality business and based in a large metropolis, entertaining business people from around the world. More colour was required from the women's suits and make-up, to the men's ties. The ever- so-comfy rubber-soled shoes needed to be replaced by smart court shoes to do the women's suits justice. And the penchant for dresses worn by most of the female managers required "pulling together” with a classic jacket. The men needed to appreciate that a crumpled linen jacket was especially bad mid-winter
倫敦和阿姆斯特丹的酒店隨後為其管理團隊預訂了研討會，每個研討會都提出了不同的挑戰。在倫敦，經理們看起來過於嚴厲和無聊。必須提醒他們，他們從事酒店業，總部位於大都市，招待來自世界各地的商界人士。從女士的西裝、化妝品到男士的領帶，都需要更多的色彩。曾經如此舒適的膠底鞋需要被智慧的宮廷鞋取代，才能體現女式西裝的公正性。大多數女性經理對連身裙的偏好需要與經典夾克「搭配」。

In Amsterdam, the staff were all expensively dressed but too casual considering that their clients, again, were mainly businesspeople. They
在阿姆斯特丹，工作人員都穿著昂貴的衣服，但考慮到他們的客戶主要是商人，卻顯得過於隨意。他們

PRESENTING YOURSELF
展現自己

needed to look more professional - which you can only achieve with a suit. The women holding management positions were horrified by the suggestion that they polish-up their act. Few wore suits and most wore no make-up. They looked more as if they were having an afternoon off to go shopping rather than actually running the hotel. They received very similar advice to that given to their London-based colleagues.
需要看起來更專業——只有穿西裝才能做到這一點。擔任管理職位的女性對要求她們改進自己行為的建議感到震驚。很少人穿西裝，大多數人沒有化妝。他們看起來更像是在下午休息去購物，而不是真正經營酒店。他們收到的建議與倫敦同事收到的建議非常相似。

WHAT IMAGE WORKS BEST?
什麼圖像效果最好？

The previous examples illustrate how companies and individuals have to rationalise what they feel is appropriate for best projecting the corporate identity through the personal image of their staff. I have talked about very different organisations with very different cultures. To understand better what some of these different images might be, here are some guidelines I use.
前面的例子說明了公司和個人如何合理化他們認為最合適的方式，以便透過員工的個人形象來最好地體現公司形象。我已經談到了具有非常不同文化的非常不同的組織。為了更好地理解這些不同的圖像可能是什麼，這裡有一些我使用的指南。

PLAY IT SMART
聰明地玩

An organisation's size greatly influences the guidelines for personal image of the employees. Large companies, with more formal systems for communication and management hierarchy, lend themselves to the finest in traditional business dress, the formal business suit, good grooming and appropriate accessories.
組織的規模極大地影響了員工個人形象的指導方針。大公司擁有更正式的溝通和管理等級制度，適合穿著最好的傳統商務服裝、正式的商務套裝、良好的儀容和適當的配件。

There are, of course, exceptions - companies, for instance, whose organic growth came from a different business culture to begin with. Two notable examples familiar to many are the Body Shop and the Virgin Group (part of which Richard Branson eventually sold). The founders of both companies are iconoclastic, and despite being highly successful business people, they challenge many traditional business values and practices. Anita Roddick and Richard Branson are products of the 'swinging 1960s' generation and have ignored established business conventions. They don't have to play by the rules. They have made it in spite of them.
當然，也有例外──例如，公司的有機成長首先來自於不同的商業文化。許多人都熟悉的兩個著名例子是 Body Shop 和維珍集團（理查布蘭森最終出售了其中的一部分）。兩家公司的創辦人都是反傳統的，儘管他們都是非常成功的商界人士，但他們挑戰了許多傳統的商業價值觀和實踐。安妮塔·羅迪克 (Anita Roddick) 和理查德·布蘭森 (Richard Branson) 是「搖擺的 20 世紀 60 年代」一代的產物，他們忽視了既定的商業慣例。他們不必遵守規則。儘管他們如此，他們還是做到了。

With their success and leadership they might even help to relax standards of business dress. But until their 'devil may care', anti-establishment images are accepted by more companies you are advised to follow the guidelines in this book, which are based on experience and research of what will help you to get ahead in your career.
憑藉他們的成功和領導力，他們甚至可能有助於放寬商務服裝標準。但在他們的「魔鬼可能會關心」之前，反體制形像被更多公司所接受，建議您遵循本書中的指南，這些指南基於經驗和研究，有助於您在職業生涯中取得成功。

So what should you wear if working for a small company, rather than a large one? Small companies form and prosper off the backs of a few dedicated people willing to wear many hats. Because everyone is expected to 'muck in' as needed, the image of employees needs to be easier, less
那麼，如果在小公司而不是大公司工作，你該穿什麼？小公司的形成和繁榮離不開少數願意身兼數職的敬業人士的支持。因為每個人都應該根據需要“參與”，所以員工的形象需要更輕鬆、更少

THE 'RIGHT' IMAGE
「正確」的形象

Only a minority of women and men make it to the top despite their image. Body Shop's founder, Anita Roddick, is a good example of one of the select few
儘管形像不佳，但只有少數女性和男性能夠登上頂峰。 Body Shop 的創辦人 Anita Roddick 是少數人中的一個很好的例子。

NG
不合格

THE
這

ING
荷蘭國際集團

CESSARY REJECTED BY THE BODY SHOP
CESSARY 被 Body Shop 拒絕

ASBOP

severe than in larger organisations. If you are the Managing Director, you will get the extra effort from your staff if they recognise that you are 'one of them' in a sense, that you are approachable, as well as being 'in- charge'.
比大型組織更嚴重。如果你是總經理，如果你的員工認識到你在某種意義上是“他們中的一員”，你是平易近人的，並且是“負責人”，那麼你會從你的員工那裡得到額外的努力。

Women running their own companies need the authority of wearing a jacket every day but can team this with dresses or skirts and blouses. The matching jacket and skirt suit is 'heavy-duty' in small companies, and might better be reserved for meetings with your banker or the board at which it becomes the essential wear.
經營自己公司的女性需要每天穿夾克的權威，但可以與連身裙或裙子和襯衫搭配。配套的夾克和裙子套裝在小公司中是“重型”，最好保留在與銀行家或董事會的會議上，在這些會議上它成為必備服裝。

TRADITIONAL OR PROGRESSIVE?
傳統還是進步？

Rarely when I ask people to describe their corporate image do they include both of these attributes - either a company sees itself as traditional or as progressive. Generally, the traditional companies are well-established while the progressive ones are often new, and aiming to chip away at their more traditional competitors.
當我要求人們描述他們的企業形象時，他們很少同時包含這兩個屬性——公司要麼認為自己是傳統的，要麼是進步的。一般來說，傳統公司已經很成熟，而進步型公司往往是新公司，旨在削弱更傳統的競爭對手。

PRESENTING YOURSELF
展現自己

In business, it can be risky to be exclusively traditional or progressive in image. Those overly concerned with tradition might be perceived as being too stuck in their ways and not adapting to the changes in the marketplace or the developing needs of their customers. Certain professional firms fall into this trap; for example, it can apply to some solicitors, doctors, accountants. While they want to inspire confidence in having a wealth of experience, they also need to project that they are up-to-date with new innovations and services.
在商業中，完全傳統或進步的形象可能是有風險的。那些過度關注傳統的人可能會被認為過於固守自己的方式，無法適應市場的變化或客戶不斷發展的需求。某些專業公司陷入了這個陷阱；例如，它可以適用於一些律師、醫生、會計師。雖然他們希望激發人們對擁有豐富經驗的信心，但他們也需要表明他們掌握最新的創新和服務。

Traditionalists need to shake their foundations from time to time to be sure their image is current as well as professional. Women in these firms are almost invariably discouraged from wearing trousers. For variety, they might try instead knit ensembles in interesting colours, such as a smart but loosely-tailored, knitted jacket over a simple knit dress or a toning top and skirt.
傳統主義者需要時不時地動搖他們的基礎，以確保他們的形像是最新的和專業的。這些公司的女性幾乎總是不鼓勵穿褲子。為了多樣化，他們可能會嘗試用有趣的顏色編織套裝，例如漂亮但剪裁寬鬆的針織夾克搭配簡單的針織連身裙或色調上衣和裙子。

Bear in mind, however, that firms that value being and looking very progressive can worry customers that what they are selling or preaching today might be redundant tomorrow. So projecting a balance is terribly important.
然而，請記住，那些重視進步並看起來非常進步的公司可能會讓客戶擔心他們今天銷售或宣揚的東西明天可能會變得多餘。因此，預測平衡非常重要。

The younger the company, the more it needs to instill confidence in its staying power. It might offer the most up-to-date products or services, at the most aggressive prices, but it needs also to project reliability and resiliency. Hence, you are advised to be more sober and reassuring in your dress.
公司越年輕，就越需要灌輸對其持久力的信心。它可能以最優惠的價格提供最新的產品或服務，但它還需要表現出可靠性和彈性。因此，建議您在穿著上更加清醒和放心。

The more progressive the company, often, the younger the staff. If you are working in such a concern naturally you will enjoy the spirit of the venture but you should always play safe in your attire. All too many women in such situations take greater liberties, wearing shorter skirts, inappropriate (that is, too trendy) jewellery and shoes that are too dressy - even frivolous - rather than smart. The outfits may actually have cost quite a lot of money but they just look cheap in business and don't show the same professional ‘commitment' as a good quality suit and a more 'classic' pair of earrings.
公司越進步，員工往往越年輕。如果您在這樣的公司工作，您自然會享受冒險精神，但您應該始終注意穿著。在這種情況下，太多的女性表現得更自由，穿著較短的裙子，佩戴不合適的（即太時髦的）珠寶，穿著過於考究甚至輕浮的鞋子，而不是聰明。這些服裝實際上可能花費了相當多的錢，但它們在商業上看起來很便宜，並且沒有表現出與優質西裝和一對更“經典”耳環相同的專業“承諾”。

BUSINESS TRAVEL ABROAD
出國商務旅行

If your business takes you abroad, be guided by the standards of the culture in which you are doing business, but that does not mean you have to dress like the natives. It does mean, in particular, observe any national or local rules on such issues as skirt and sleeve lengths.
如果您的業務需要出國，請遵循您開展業務的文化標準，但這並不意味著您必須像當地人一樣穿著。這確實意味著，特別是遵守有關裙子和袖長等問題的任何國家或地方規則。

Travelling abroad is more of a minefield for women. It is all too easy to look parochial: the short, tight skirts acceptable in France don't work
出國旅行對女性來說更像是個雷區。很容易顯得狹隘：在法國可以接受的短而緊身的裙子並不適用

THE 'RIGHT' IMAGE
「正確」的形象

in New York. The 'big hair-do' so necessary in Dallas would sabotage any deal in Tokyo. The clumpy boots so commonplace in Stockholm would look clumsy and unprofessional in Brussels.
在紐約。在達拉斯如此必要的「大髮型」會破壞在東京的任何交易。在斯德哥爾摩空見慣的笨重靴子在布魯塞爾顯得笨拙且不專業。

If you have never visited the country before, and neither have any of your colleagues, play safe with a smart suit, not necessarily your most exciting, but rather one you would usually wear for a Board presentation. Wear real accessories if you own them; if not, try to borrow a good watch, pair of gold earrings and a good string of pearls. Wear your best shoes, current - not trendy and in perfect condition.
如果您以前從未訪問過這個國家，而且您的任何同事也沒有訪問過該國，請安全地穿一套漂亮的西裝，這不一定是您最興奮的，而是您通常在董事會演講時穿的一套。如果您擁有真正的配件，請戴上它們；如果沒有，試著借一隻好手錶、一對金耳環和一串好珍珠。穿上你最好的鞋子，當前的——不是時髦的，並且狀況良好。

GOING INTERNATIONAL
走向國際

If you are part of an international company with staff from many different nationalities, your future advancement will depend greatly on your superiors' perception of how well you get along with others. Your own work group might all be nationals, but you are advised to spread your wings and become known throughout the organisation. Observe any characteristic differences in the dress of other nationalities. If they are ex-patriates do they look as though they are? Or have they adapted their image to look totally integrated into the company?
如果您所在的國際公司擁有來自多個不同國家的員工，那麼您未來的晉升將在很大程度上取決於您的上司對您與他人相處的看法。您自己的工作團隊可能都是本國人，但建議您展開翅膀並在整個組織中廣為人知。觀察其他民族服飾的特質差異。如果他們是外籍人士，他們看起來像外籍人士嗎？還是他們調整了自己的形象，使其看起來完全融入了公司？

How well do you think your own image ‘travels”? Ask yourself: if you were lined up on an identity parade, would people be able to tell that you are from London, New York, Frankfurt, Milan, Sydney or Tokyo? What are the signs that give your nationality away? Do those distinctions make you proud or uncomfortable when you travel or if you compare yourself to others in your international organisation?
您認為自己的形象「傳播」得怎麼樣？問問自己：如果你在身分遊行中排隊，人們能看出你來自倫敦、紐約、法蘭克福、米蘭、雪梨還是東京嗎？哪些跡象會洩漏您的國籍？當您旅行或將自己與國際組織中的其他人進行比較時，這些差異會讓您感到自豪還是感到不舒服？

My advice is to resist the temptations to wear things that give away your nationality. This is not to suggest that you shouldn't be proud of being British, German, Japanese, American or whatever but never appear so typically nationalistic that others will infer that you are parochial, and unable to adapt, or to understand and appreciate the richness of other countries, other cultures, other peoples.
我的建議是抵抗誘惑，不要穿著暴露國籍的衣服。這並不是說你不應該為自己是英國人、德國人、日本人、美國人或其他國家而感到自豪，但永遠不要表現得如此典型的民族主義，否則別人會認為你狹隘、無法適應、無法理解和欣賞財富的豐富性其他國家、其他文化、其他民族的。

Shop for your clothes at stores that stock international labels - not difficult to find these days. Experiment, within the bounds of advice, on making the most of yourself given in Chapters 4, 5, 6, 7 and 8. Pay special attention to those accessories valued by all nationalities - your watch, your attaché or brief-case, and your shoes.
在出售國際品牌的商店購買衣服 - 如今並不難找到。在第 4、5、6、7 和 8 章中給出的建議範圍內，嘗試充分利用自己。鞋。

Consult your international colleagues; encourage their views on your own image. Your goal is to dress and behave in ways that could travel anywhere and relate to anyone, in any country. Once you achieve this, you will be a prime candidate for advancement.
諮詢您的國際同事；鼓勵他們對你自己形象的看法。您的目標是穿著和舉止能夠適應任何地方旅行並與任何國家的任何人建立聯繫。一旦實現這一點，您將成為晉升的主要候選人。

CHAPTER 3
第三章

Terrific Every Day
每天都很棒

W hen I ask an audience of women what it takes to look terrific at work every day, I am greeted by responses that generally mean: you need lots of time and money.
當我問女性觀眾如何每天在工作中看起來很棒時，我得到的回答通常意味著：你需要大量的時間和金錢。

- I assume that you have limits on both - either because you're busy with your career, or working just as hard at home, or possibly doing both - that you probably don't have much time to read magazines, cruise the shops to see what's in fashion or search out pieces to co-ordinate with your wardrobe. No. You probably have only a couple of hours every month to plan and to shop for your wardrobe and only minutes every day to put it together. You may also have a tight budget, particularly if you're just returning to work after starting and caring for a family.
- 我認為你在這兩方面都有限制 - 要么因為你忙於你的事業，要么因為你在家裡努力工作，或者可能兩者兼而有之 - 你可能沒有太多時間閱讀雜誌，逛商店查看流行趨勢或尋找與您的衣櫃相搭配的單品。不。您的預算也可能很緊張，尤其是當您在成家並照顧家庭後剛重返工作崗位時。

- Think about the investment side of your image. You have lots of demands on your take-home salary - or you will have, once you get it and your image can often fall way down the list of priorities. In fact, your image should be high on your list and be planned into your annual and monthly budgets. If you look as if you're ready to go places, the chances are that you will, and will be earning more money before too long. Think of the money you do spend from time to time, on replenishing your wardrobe a pair of shoes here, a jacket there, some earrings and so on. If you kept tabs on how much you spent on this kind of ‘drip-feed', unplanned and unbudgeted shopping, you might be shocked.
- 考慮一下你的形象的投資方面。你對你的實得工資有很多要求——或者你將會有，一旦你得到它，你的形象往往會遠遠落在優先事項的清單中。事實上，您的形象應該在您的清單中名列前茅，並規劃到您的年度和每月預算中。如果你看起來已經準備好去某個地方了，那麼你很可能會，並且很快就會賺到更多的錢。想想你常花在衣櫃裡的錢，這裡一雙鞋，那裡一件夾克，一些耳環等等。如果您密切注意自己在這種「滴水不漏」、計劃外和預算外的購物上花費了多少錢，您可能會感到震驚。

Your new goal will be to plan your wardrobe as you plan other investments, and to stop wasting money on ad hoc items that never work with what you already have. The starting point is to discover what suits you, then to assess your existing wardrobe to see if it measures up and finally, to develop a shopping priority list.
你的新目標將是像規劃其他投資一樣規劃你的衣櫃，並停止把錢浪費在與你已有的東西不相稱的臨時物品上。首先是發現什麼適合您，然後評估您現有的衣櫃，看看它是否合適，最後制定一份購物優先清單。

TERRIFIC EVERY DAY
每天都很棒

Let's begin by seeing how well your present image measures up.
讓我們先看看您目前的形像有多好。

DOES YOUR IMAGE MEASURE UP?
您的形象合格嗎？

YN
延尼

1. Do you spend less than 15 minutes getting ready for work in the morning (not including a shower)?
1. 您早上準備上班的時間是否少於 15 分鐘（不含淋浴）？

2. Do you wear earrings every day?
2.你每天都戴耳環嗎？

3. Do you go to the hairdresser at least every six to eight weeks? Ideally, every four weeks?
3. 您是否至少每六到八週去一次理髮店？理想情況下，每四個星期一次？

4. Does your hair require more than 10 minutes each day to look terrific and appropriate?
4. 您的頭髮每天需要 10 分鐘以上才能看起來漂亮且合適嗎？

5. Do you wear coloured nail varnish which matches your outfits and/or lipsticks? x
5. 您是否使用與您的服裝和/或口紅相匹配的彩色指甲油？ x

6. Do you manicure your nails weekly?
6. 你每週修指甲嗎？

7. Do you wear make-up every day to work or only when you go for an interview?
7. 你是每天上班才化妝還是在面試時才化妝？

8. When you sit down, does your skirt ride up several inches?
8. 當你坐下時，你的裙子是否會翹起幾吋？

9. Do you touch-up your make-up at all during the day? 10. Do you know the difference between 5 and 20 denier?
9. 你白天補妝嗎？ 10. 你知道5丹尼爾和20丹尼的差別嗎？

11. Is your wardrobe mainly comprised of navy, grey and other neutral colours?
11. 你的衣櫥主要是海軍藍、灰色等中性色嗎？

12. Do you wear a belt with your skirts (even if they don't have belt loops)?
12. 你穿裙子時會繫上腰帶嗎（即使裙子沒有腰帶環）？

13. Do you know your most flattering skirt lengths for business?
13. 你知道最適合商務場合的裙子長度嗎？

14. Do you know which styles make you look most trim?
14.你知道哪些款式讓你看起來最苗條嗎？

15. In the summertime, do you wear sleeveless dresses and blouses to keep cool?
15. 夏天，你穿無袖連身裙和襯衫來保持涼爽嗎？

16. If you are petite, do you wear high heels to look taller?
16.如果你身材嬌小，你會穿高跟鞋顯得更高嗎？

17. Are all your work shoes stored away in the wardrobe on shoe trees?
17. 您所有的工作鞋都存放在衣櫃的鞋撐上嗎？

PRESENTING YOURSELF
展現自己

18. On a day when you have an important meeting, do you dress differently?
18. 在你開重要會議的那天，你的穿著會有所不同嗎？

19. Do you have a suit/dress and accessories - a special look - ready in the wardrobe for business dinners?
19. 您的衣櫃裡有準備適合商務晚宴的西裝/洋裝和配件嗎？

20. Are your shoes, handbags/attaché or brief-case and watch of good quality that projects your position and your success?
20. 您的鞋子、手提包/公事包或公事包和手錶的品質是否能體現您的地位和成功？

ANSWERS
答案

Give yourself a point for every correct answer.
每個正確答案給自己一分。

1. No.
1. 不。

Wash 'N' Go is a clever name for a shampoo but disastrous if it describes the amount of effort you put into your image each day. Your make-up and hair needs 15-20 minutes, with dressing and accessorising taking another 10. So a half-hour is the minimum goal. See also Chapter 8.
「Wash 'N' Go」對洗髮精來說是一個聰明的名字，但如果它描述了你每天為塑造形象所付出的努力，那就是災難性的了。化妝和做頭髮需要 15-20 分鐘，穿衣和配件還需要 10 分鐘。另請參閱第 8 章。

2. Yes.
2. 是的。

Earrings are equivalent in importance for a woman to a tie for a man. See also Chapter 8.
耳環對女人的重要性相當於領帶對男人的重要性。另請參閱第 8 章。

3. Yes.
3. 是的。

Your hair grows at its own rate but letting it go any longer than eight weeks without attention is letting your grooming down. See also Chapter 8.
你的頭髮會以自己的速度生長，但如果不加註意地讓它生長超過八週，你的美容就會大打折扣。另請參閱第 8 章。

4. No.
4. 不。

Hairstyles needing more than 10 minutes' care each day are only an option for single women who are early risers. Make life easier for yourself by investing in a cut and treatment that makes you look your best with minimal effort. See also Chapter 8.
每天需要打理10分鐘以上的髮型只適合早起的單身女性。投資剪髮和治療，讓您以最少的努力展現最佳狀態，讓自己的生活更輕鬆。另請參閱第 8 章。

5. No.
5. 不。

Coloured nail varnish is for women working in fashion or beauty. Otherwise it's a distraction and does nothing to project a woman who means business. Stick to buffed nails, or clear or light neutral varnishes. See also Chapter 8.
彩色指甲油適合時尚或美容工作的女性。否則，這會分散人們的注意力，而且對展現一個認真的女性毫無幫助。堅持使用拋光指甲，或透明或淺中性清漆。另請參閱第 8 章。

6. Yes.
6. 是的。

The hands and nails are integral to your daily communication. Attend to them weekly at a minimum. See also Chapter 8.
手和指甲是您日常溝通不可或缺的一部分。至少每週去拜訪一次。另請參閱第 8 章。

7. Yes.
7. 是的。

Women who wear make-up earn more and get promoted faster. Learn
化妝的女性收入更高，晉升也更快。學習

YN
延尼

TERRIFIC EVERY DAY
每天都很棒

how to wear colours that look natural and understated at work. See also Chapter 8.
如何在工作中穿著看起來自然、低調的顏色。另請參閱第 8 章。

8. No.
8. 不。

If your skirt sneaks up your thighs when you sit down, it is too short or too tight. Aim for an elegantly looser fit in skirts and trousers that stay where you want them to and are flattering not figure-hugging. See also Chapter 7.
如果坐下時你的裙子悄悄地爬到大腿上，那就是裙子太短或太緊了。裙子和褲子應該選擇優雅、寬鬆的版型，讓它們保持在您想要的位置，並且討人喜歡，而不是緊身。另請參閱第 7 章。

9. Yes.
9. 是的。

If you apply your make-up well in the morning (using CMB's 10-minute foolproof routine) then all you need to do is refresh your face with a little powder at lunchtime and touch-up your lipstick two or three times, depending upon how much you are on show that day. See also Chapter 8.
如果你早上化妝得很好（使用 CMB 的 10 分鐘萬無一失的程序），那麼你所需要做的就是在午餐時間用一點粉來讓臉煥然一新，然後根據具體情況補妝兩到三次口紅。表現非常出色。另請參閱第 8 章。

10. Yes.
10. 是的。

If you don't know the difference between sheer denier hosiery and varying degrees of opaqueness you are probably diminishing the overall impact of your outfits. Get the thickness, density and texture appropriate for your wintertime and summertime wardrobes. See also Chapter 8.
如果您不知道純旦襪和不同程度的不透明性之間的區別，您可能會削弱服裝的整體效果。獲得適合您冬季和夏季衣櫃的厚度、密度和質地。另請參閱第 8 章。

11. No.
11. 不。

Neutrals are the mainstay of every working wardrobe but be sure you aren't playing so safe that your image screams 'BORING'. See also Chapter 4.
中性色是每個工作衣櫥的中流砥柱，但要確保你不會過於謹慎，以免你的形象尖叫“無聊”。另請參閱第 4 章。

12. Yes.
12. 是的。

A belt finishes off your skirts and trousers. A good quality one in a neutral tone that co-ordinates with most of your shoes can work with most outfits. See also Chapter 8.
一條腰帶為你的裙子和褲子增色不少。一款優質、中性色調的鞋子可以與您的大多數鞋子搭配，可以搭配大多數服裝。另請參閱第 8 章。

13. Yes.
13. 是的。

Forget what the catwalks are showing; find out the range of options available to make you look your best. If you don't know what lengths are best, some of your skirts are probably making you look dumpy while others are downright unattractive. See also Chapter 5.
忘記T台上展示的是什麼；找出可以讓您看起來最好的一系列選擇。如果您不知道什麼長度最好，您的一些裙子可能會讓您看起來矮胖，而另一些則完全沒有吸引力。另請參閱第 5 章。

14. Yes.
14. 是的。

- For jackets, dresses, skirts, trousers consider cut, fabric, texture and patterns. Consider the mistakes in your wardrobe. Some of these clothes make you look heavier than you really are. Why? If you don't know, time to find out. See also Chapter 5.
- 夾克、洋裝、裙子、褲子，請考慮剪裁、布料、紋理和圖案。考慮一下你衣櫃裡的錯誤。有些衣服會讓你看起來比實際體重更重。為什麼？如果你不知道，是時候找出答案了。另請參閱第 5 章。

15. No.
15. 不。

Sleeveless dresses inspire little confidence in your authority. Always keep your arms covered, at least to just below the elbow, and wear a jacket to
無袖連身裙會讓你對自己的權威缺乏信心。始終遮蓋雙臂，至少遮蓋肘部以下，並穿一件夾克

PRESENTING YOURSELF
展現自己

any important meeting whatever the temperature. See also Chapters 6 and 7.
任何重要會議，無論溫度如何。另請參閱第 6 章和第 7 章。

16. No.
16. 不。

High heels make most women, short or tall, walk awkwardly. It is true that, if petite, flats don't enhance your stature but a medium heel, say 1/2 inch, makes you look lovely and allows you to walk comfortably and elegantly. See also Chapter 8.
高跟鞋讓大多數女性，無論身材矮小還是身材高大，走路都顯得笨拙。確實，如果身材嬌小，平底鞋並不能增強你的身材，但中跟鞋，例如 1/2 英寸，會讓你看起來很可愛，讓你走路舒適優雅。另請參閱第 8 章。

17. Yes.
17. 是的。

If your shoes are in a jumble under the bed, or strewn throughout the house, you aren't getting the best return on your investment. Shoe trees can extend the life of decent shoes for YEARS. Also, in the cupboard, shoes do not collect dust and discolour as they can if left in daylight. See also Chapter 8.
如果你的鞋子亂七八糟地堆在床底下，或散落在整個房子裡，你就無法獲得最好的投資回報。鞋撐可以將像樣的鞋子的使用壽命延長數年。此外，放在櫃子裡的鞋子不會像放在白天那樣積灰塵和變色。另請參閱第 8 章。

18.

The answer should be yes or no. You want to fine-tune your look for effect for special meetings but should be consistently well-dressed so that you could handle any impromptu meeting with someone important. See also Chapter 10 and 11.
答案應該是肯定或否定。您想要調整自己的服裝，以便在特殊會議上達到效果，但應該始終穿著得體，以便您可以應付與重要人物的任何即興會議。另請參閱第 10 章和第 11 章。

19. Yes.
19. 是的。

Many working women under-estimate the importance of business/social events such as the drink or dinner after work. Plan for a look that can take the day into the evening elegantly. Freshen up your make-up and add a nice scent to enhance your image. See also Chapter 8.
許多職業婦女低估了商務/社交活動的重要性，例如下班後喝酒或吃飯。規劃一個可以優雅地度過一天到晚上的造型。清新你的妝容並添加美妙的香味來提升你的形象。另請參閱第 8 章。

20. Yes.
20. 是的。

Why spend good money on your suits but practise false economy on your shoes? Make sure you 'finish off' your image with the best quality accessories you can afford. You deserve nothing less. See also Chapter 8.
為什麼要在西裝上花很多錢，卻在鞋子上卻要節儉呢？確保您使用您能負擔得起的最優質的配件來“完成”您的形象。你值得擁有。另請參閱第 8 章。

◆ If you scored 15 to 20 points, your image is quite together. You know that you I need to bother every day to make a good impression and are putting in the necessary effort. This book will help you fine-tune your image and let you explore new possibilities for looking even more successful.
◆ 如果你得了15到20分，那麼你的形象就很統一了。你知道你每天都需要費心去給人留下好印象，並且正在付出必要的努力。這本書將幫助你調整你的形象，讓你探索新的可能性，讓自己看起來更成功。

◆ If you scored 10 to 15 points, your image is probably tired. You are not projecting as well as you need to do in order to get as far as you are capable. Time to rethink your business image and bring yourself up-to-date. This book will guide you on all aspects; study the details on grooming and accessories, which may be your weak points.
◆ 如果你得了10到15分，你的形象可能已經疲倦了。為了達到你的能力範圍，你沒有做出你需要做的那樣的計劃。是時候重新思考您的企業形象並讓自己與時俱進了。本書將從各個方面為您提供指導；研究儀容和配件的細節，這可能是你的弱點。

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TERRIFIC EVERY DAY
每天都很棒

◆ If you scored under 10 points, your image is hurting your career prospects. Unwittingly, you are being inconsistent and sending the wrong signals to people who matter. You need to start from scratch. Follow the tips in this book, and you will find that a Successful Image is both easy to achieve and affordable.
◆ 如果您的分數低於 10 分，您的形象就會損害您的職業前景。不知不覺中，你變得前後矛盾，並向重要的人發出了錯誤的信號。你需要從頭開始。按照本書的提示進行操作，您會發現成功的形象既容易實現又經濟實惠。

WHAT IT TAKES
需要什麼

Now that we've examined the sort of situations in which you might wish to change or fine-tune your image, and the business considerations you need to keep in mind, it's time to concentrate on how to make those changes. The guideline we at CMB use to help women understand what it takes for any individual to project SUCCESS, is that you must first define what is unique about yourself in terms of colouring, build, personality and lifestyle. Then you must adapt your individuality to conform to your position, organisation/sector and culture. This formula produces a unique look for every woman, since no two individuals are exactly alike on all counts.
現在我們已經研究了您可能希望更改或微調您的形象的情況以及您需要牢記的業務注意事項，現在是時候集中精力討論如何進行這些更改了。我們 CMB 用來幫助女性了解個人如何才能取得成功的指導方針是，您必須先在膚色、體形、個性和生活方式方面定義自己的獨特之處。然後你必須調整你的個性以符合你的職位、組織/部門和文化。配方為每位女性打造獨特的外觀，因為沒有兩個人在所有方面都完全相同。

In the following chapters we will deal with your physical characteristics - your colouring and your build - and discuss how you can develop an image that is appropriate as well as attractive, but most of all: yours.
在接下來的章節中，我們將討論你的身體特徵——你的膚色和你的體型——並討論如何塑造一個既合適又有吸引力的形象，但最重要的是：你自己的形象。

32 37

CHAPTER 4
第 4 章

Start with Colour
從顏色開始

Colo olour is where we, as Image Consultants, begin when advising women on how to make the most of themselves. Colour not only affects how healthy and attractive you look, but also affects how you feel.
身為形象顧問，色彩是我們為女性提供如何充分展現自己的建議時的起點。顏色不僅會影響您的健康和吸引力，還會影響您的感覺。

You probably have at least one or two colours in your wardrobe that make you look and feel like death warmed-over. Every time you put on a particular jacket or dress, you sigh and reach for your blusher and lipstick. The colour seems to drain you. It simply wears you.
你的衣櫥裡可能至少有一種或兩種顏色，讓你看起來和感覺都像死亡一樣溫暖。每當你穿上一件特定的夾克或裙子時，你都會嘆息並伸手去拿腮紅和口紅。這種顏色似乎讓你精疲力盡。它只是讓你疲憊不堪。

Also, when you open your wardrobe, can you see any relationship between the colours? Just look at the colour families you have assembled there. Do you play it safe with lots of the same shades? Or is your wardrobe a veritable riot of colour, with lots of items seeming to scream for attention, not wanting or able to work with anything else?
另外，當你打開衣櫃時，你能看到顏色之間有關係嗎？只需看看您在那裡組裝的顏色系列即可。您是否會安全地使用許多相同的色調？或者你的衣櫥色彩繽紛，很多單品似乎都引人注目，卻不想或無法與其他任何東西搭配？

Face up to it: as a busy working woman you can't afford to look miserable, overwhelmed or insignificant in the wrong colours. Nor do you need the hassle of trying to mix and match things that you bought separately, just hoping they'd go with something you already had - only to be bitterly disappointed. What you need is a system to make you look wonderful, to unclutter your wardrobe and to make shopping a snap.
面對現實吧：身為一個忙碌的職業女性，你不能因為穿著錯誤的顏色而顯得痛苦、不知所措或無足輕重。您也不需要麻煩地嘗試混合搭配您單獨購買的東西，只是希望它們能與您已經擁有的東西搭配 - 結果卻非常失望。您需要的是一個讓您看起來漂亮、整理衣櫃並讓購物變得輕而易舉的系統。

COLOUR ANALYSIS
色彩分析

Millions of women (and men) have turned to Color Me Beautiful for advice on finding their best colours. We analyse what is special about your colouring - your natural skin tone, eye and hair colour - and advise you on which one of 12 colour palettes will make you look your best. We use the seasons of the year to describe people, and in my recent book,
數以百萬計的女性（和男性）向 Color Me Beautiful 尋求建議，尋找最適合自己的顏色。我們分析您的膚色有何特別之處 - 您的自然膚色、眼睛和頭髮的顏色 - 並建議您選擇 12 種調色板中的哪一種讓您看起來最好。我們用一年中的季節來形容人，在我最近的書中，

38 38

START WITH COLOUR
從顏色開始

The Complete Style Guide from the Color Me Beautiful Organisation, the twelve seasonal types (there are three types within each of the four seasons) are presented in detail.
Color Me Beautiful組織的完整風格指南，詳細介紹了十二種季節類型（四個季節各有三種類型）。

Here I'll simply give you a basic understanding of how to develop a working wardrobe, using a personal colour theme.
在這裡，我將簡單地讓您基本了解如何使用個人色彩主題來開發工作衣櫃。

DEFINE YOUR OWN COLOURING
定義您自己的顏色

Take a look at yourself in the mirror without any make-up, and with a bare neck and chest. How would you describe your colouring? Forget what you looked like when you were younger, and concentrate on your present colouring - unless you colour your hair, in which case consider the colour it is naturally.
看看鏡子裡的自己，沒有化妝，脖子和胸部都裸露著。你會如何形容你的色彩？忘記你年輕時的樣子，專注於你現在的顏色——除非你染了頭髮，在這種情況下考慮它自然的顏色。

Would you say your colouring is strong and deep? Women with dark hair and eyes fit into this category, and look wonderful in black and bold colours, such as red, purple, emerald green and royal blue. Or are you, by contrast light and delicate, almost translucent, in colouring. Blue-eyed blondes, and some women with very light grey hair are most suited to lighter colours. Then there are the women who project a real warm and golden glow. The redheads, women who freckle easily look wonderful in warm shades. So do the women with mid-brown hair that often has reddish highlights. Their opposites are the rosy and cool types, who have pink undertones to the skin, and no real warmth in the hair, which can be a beautiful grey to mid- or mouse-brown. Other women are best described as bright and clear; what you notice is the contrast between their usually dark hair, bright eyes and clear skintone. And finally, there are women who usually say they are 'mousey.' They know a lot of bright colours are unkind to them. Their colouring is soft and muted and so too should be the colours they wear.
你說你的色彩濃烈而深沉嗎？深色頭髮和眼睛的女性就屬於這一類，她們穿著黑色和大膽的顏色，如紅色、紫色、翠綠色和寶藍色，看起來很漂亮。或者，相較之下，你的色彩輕盈而細膩，幾乎是半透明的。藍眼睛的金髮女郎和一些淺灰色頭髮的女性最適合淺色。還有一些女性散發出真正溫暖的金色光芒。紅髮、容易長雀斑的女性在暖色調下看起來很漂亮。中棕色頭髮的女性也是如此，頭髮通常帶有紅色亮點。他們的對立面是玫瑰色和冷色類型，他們的皮膚有粉紅色的底色，頭髮沒有真正的溫暖，頭髮可以是美麗的灰色到中棕色或老鼠棕色。其他女性最好的描述是聰明、清晰；你會注意到他們通常深色的頭髮、明亮的眼睛和清晰的膚色之間的對比。最後，有些女性通常說她們是「老鼠」。他們知道很多鮮豔的顏色對他們來說都是不友善的。他們的膚色柔和而柔和，他們所穿的顏色也應該如此。

On the following pages are examples of the different wardrobe options and make-up colours based on these six dominant types of colouring. Please note that I have not recommended specific colours for your foundation liquid/creme, as this is too individual; some colours are worn by many seasons. It seemed best therefore to limit advice to colour cosmetics such as lipsticks and eye-shadows. See which description of a type fits you best. Don't be swayed by the wardrobe that most nearly resembles your present one, as you may be dressing in colours that really aren't making the most of your natural colouring. For more details on finding out which of the 12 seasonal types you are, refer to The Complete Style Guide.
以下幾頁是基於這六種主要顏色類型的不同衣櫃選擇和化妝品顏色的範例。請注意，我沒有為您推薦特定顏色的粉底液/粉霜，因為這太個性化了；有些顏色可以穿很多季節。因此，最好將建議限制在口紅和眼影等彩妝上。看看哪種類型的描述最適合您。不要被最接近你現在的衣櫃所左右，因為你所穿的顏色可能並沒有充分利用你的自然色彩。有關了解您屬於 12 種季節類型中哪一種的更多詳細信息，請參閱完整風格指南。

PRESENTING YOURSELF
展現自己

THE DEEP WOMAN'S WARDROBE
深邃女人的衣櫃

Overall Look:
整體外觀：

Projects strength
專案實力

Hair:
頭髮：

Black, brunette, dark auburn, salt 'n' pepper
黑色、深褐色、深赤褐色、椒鹽色

Eyes:
眼睛：

Brown or hazel
棕色或淡褐色

Skintone:
膚色：

Ivory, rich beige, dark olive, bronze black
象牙色、濃鬱米色、深橄欖色、古銅黑

Famous examples of Deep Women:
深層女性的著名例子：

Whitney Houston, Joan Collins, Isabella Rossalini (left), Ruby Wax, Whoopi Goldberg (far left), Tracey Ullman, Caryn Franklin Color Me Beautiful seasons:
惠妮休斯頓、瓊柯林斯、伊莎貝拉羅薩里尼（左）、魯比瓦克斯、烏比戈德堡（最左）、崔西烏爾曼、卡琳·富蘭克林Color Me Beautiful 季節：

Deep Autumn or Deep Winter
深秋還是深冬

GENERAL WARDROBE GUIDELINES
一般衣櫃指南

Build your wardrobe on strong neutrals such as black, charcoal or navy. But always offset them with vivid colours: royal blue, red, bright yellow, turquoise to name a few. You are all about contrast, so wear light with dark as opposed to blended monochromatic tones.
用黑色、木炭色或海軍藍等強烈的中性色打造你的衣櫃。但一定要用鮮豔的顏色來抵消它們：寶藍色、紅色、亮黃色、綠松石色等等。你很注重對比，所以穿淺色和深色的衣服，而不是混合單色色調。

Pastels are sickly on you. If you want to wear lighter colours, think white with just a hint of colour. We call them icy shades - the lightest pinks, blues and lemons. But these light colours are best reserved for blouses or sportswear, not for the office as a major item like a dress.
粉彩對你來說很噁心。如果您想穿淺色衣服，可以考慮帶有一點顏色的白色。我們稱它們為冰冷色調——最淺的粉紅色、藍色和檸檬色。但這些淺色最適合襯衫或運動服，而不是像洋裝這樣作為主要物品的辦公室。

Your colours are rich, say mahogany, purple, olive and pine green, as well as primary and clear. To make the most of your natural colouring, be bold.
你的顏色很豐富，像是桃花心木色、紫色、橄欖色和松綠色，而且是原色和透明的。為了充分利用你的自然色彩，大膽一點。

COMPLEMENTARY MAKE-UP
互補彩妝

Rich lipstick colours, such as true red, when you wear your red. But for everyday lipstick and blusher try a translucent burgundy or cinnamon (choose the former if you know cooler/blue-based colours are your best, or the latter if warm tones flatter you). Don't neglect to complement the rich colouring of your eyes. Enhance them by framing them with a strong eyeliner charcoal, plum, sage or brown (black is too severe) and by using soft neutral eye-shadows, such as pink and grey (if you are cool- toned) or peach and sage (if warm-toned).
當您使用紅色時，口紅顏色豐富，例如純正紅色。但對於日常口紅和腮紅，請嘗試半透明的酒紅色或肉桂色（如果您知道冷色/藍色基色最適合您，請選擇前者，如果暖色調更適合您，請選擇後者）。不要忽視補充眼睛的豐富色彩。用深邃的木炭色、紫紅色、鼠尾草色或棕色（黑色太濃烈）眼線勾勒它們，並使用柔和的中性眼影，例如粉紅色和灰色（如果您是冷色調）或桃紅色和鼠尾草色（如果您是冷色調），以增強它們的效果。

PRESENTING YOURSELF
展現自己

THE LIGHT WOMAN'S WARDROBE:
輕盈女士衣櫥：

Overall Look:
整體外觀：

Delicate and translucent
細膩透亮

Hair:
頭髮：

Blonde or light grey
金髮或淺灰色

Eyes:
眼睛：

Blue, blue-grey, aqua, light green Skintone:
藍色、藍灰色、水綠色、淺綠色膚色：

Fair ivory or porcelain, peachy Famous examples of Light Women: The Princess of Wales (right), Selina Scott, Patricia Hodge, Linda McCartney, Melanie Griffiths, Tina Brown
淺象牙色或瓷器色，桃紅色淺色女性的著名例子：威爾斯王妃（右）、Selina Scott、Patricia Hodge、Linda McCartney、Melanie Griffiths、Tina Brown

Color Me Beautiful seasons: Light Spring or Light Summer
為我美麗的季節上色：淺春或淺夏

GENERAL WARDROBE GUIDELINES
一般衣櫃指南

Your investment neutrals range from camel, stone and taupe to soft blue- grey and light-navy. Avoid dark, draining colours such as black or charcoal, which only make you look pale and insipid. Your white is ivory but better to opt for soft pastels such as apricot, buff, lemon, rose pink or sky blue when you need to offset your strongest colours like navy.
您的投資中性色範圍從駝色、石色和灰褐色到柔和的藍灰色和淺海軍藍。避免深色、排水性的顏色，例如黑色或木炭色，它們只會讓你看起來蒼白無味。你的白色是像牙色，但當你需要抵消你最強烈的顏色（如海軍藍）時，最好選擇柔和的粉彩，如杏色、淺黃色、檸檬色、玫瑰粉紅色或天藍色。

Have fun with bright colours, but be sure not to go too electric. Rather than a strong, royal blue try a clear, medium blue. A rich purple might overwhelm but if you mix with blue to make periwinkle you are on to a winner. Blue-greens are particularly nice on light women, and are very user-friendly colours.
享受鮮豔的色彩帶來的樂趣，但一定不要太用力。嘗試使用透明的中藍色，而不是強烈的寶藍色。濃鬱的紫色可能會讓人不知所措，但如果你與藍色混合製成長春花色，你就會成為贏家。藍綠色特別適合淺色女性，而且是非常人性化的顏色。

Your red is best if clear, not too blue or deep. Mango or salmon pinks are fun alternatives when you want a new jacket to brighten up your basic skirts and trousers.
你的紅色最好是清澈的，而不是太藍或太深。當您想要一件新夾克來點亮您的基本裙子和褲子時，芒果粉紅色或鮭魚粉紅色是有趣的選擇。

COMPLEMENTARY MAKE-UP
互補彩妝

For everyday lipstick and blusher try a salmon or warm pink (if you know these warm tones look the most natural on you), or a plum rose (if you know the bluer-tones are your best). Avoid wearing frosted or pearlised lipsticks, which are too light and sporty for business; matt, medium shades are best for business. Define your eyes but not too strongly. Try a teal, grey or navy liner. For shadows: apricot or champagne with cocoa or soft grey will work with your whole wardrobe.
對於日常口紅和腮紅，請嘗試鮭魚色或暖粉色（如果您知道這些暖色調在您身上看起來最自然），或梅子玫瑰色（如果您知道藍色色調最適合您）。避免使用磨砂或珠光口紅，這些口紅對於商務來說太輕盈和運動；霧面、中等色調最適合商務。定義你的眼睛，但不要太強烈。試試青色、灰色或海軍藍內襯。對於陰影：杏色或香檳色加可可色或柔和的灰色可以搭配您的整個衣櫃。

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PRESENTING YOURSELF
展現自己

THE WARM WOMAN'S WARDROBE
溫暖女人的衣櫃

Overall Look:
整體外觀：

Golden
金的

Hair:
頭髮：

Strawberry blonde, red or auburn
草莓金色、紅色或紅褐色

Eyes:
眼睛：

Topaz, hazel, warm green, teal blue Skintone:
黃玉色、淡褐色、暖綠色、青色藍色膚色：

Ivory with freckles, golden brown, peachy porcelain, yellow beige
象牙色帶雀斑、金棕色、桃瓷色、黃米色

Famous examples of Warm Women:
暖女人的著名事例：

Duchess of York, Emma Thompson (right), Shirley McLaine, Jennifer Saunders, Rula Lenska, Angela Lansbury
約克公爵夫人、艾瑪湯普森（右）、雪莉麥克雷恩、珍妮佛桑德斯、魯拉蘭斯卡、安琪拉蘭斯伯里

Color Me Beautiful seasons: Warm Spring or Warm Autumn
為我塗上美麗的季節：溫暖的春天或溫暖的秋天

GENERAL WARDROBE GUIDELINES
一般衣櫃指南

Some traditional 'business' colours, such as some greys and navies, are difficult for you. They don't make the most of your natural colouring. Instead, invest in golden browns, olives, camels and rusts, which are eminently professional and much more effective with your colouring.
一些傳統的“商業”顏色，例如灰色和海軍藍，對您來說很難。它們沒有充分利用您的自然色彩。相反，可以選擇金棕色、橄欖色、駝色和鐵鏽色，這些顏色非常專業，而且對您的著色效果更有效。

Look for yellow, red or green undertones to your colours. Avoid white; instead, wear cream or buff. Choose a brick red rather than burgundy.
尋找黃色、紅色或綠色的底色。避免白色；相反，穿奶油色或淺黃色。選擇磚紅色而不是酒紅色。

Your blues are best if 'warmed up' with green - teal blue, for example. You will look your most exciting if you think of an autumn landscape and put together blended golden tones like moss greens, mustards, ter- racotta and warm browns.
如果用綠色（例如青色藍色）來“熱身”，您的藍色效果最好。如果你想到秋天的風景，並將苔蘚綠、芥末色、赤土色和暖棕色等混合的金色色調組合在一起，你會看起來最興奮。

Black is not recommended unless it is kept clear of your face, that is, in your skirts or trousers. But it won't work with all the other wonderful golden tones in your wardrobe. So why buy it?
不建議使用黑色，除非黑色遠離您的臉部，即裙子或褲子。但它不能與你衣櫥裡所有其他美妙的金色色調搭配。那為什麼要買呢？

COMPLEMENTARY MAKE-UP
互補彩妝

Terracotta or cinnamon lipsticks and blusher will work with your whole wardrobe. When wearing red, match yours with a rich brick red, always avoiding blue-toned reds like the plague. Your eyes will look best if framed with a coffee or moss green pencil or teal blue if you have blue eyes. When applying eye-shadow, dust your eye-lids with apricot or light gold, and strengthen with a bronze, copper or brown shadow.
赤土色或肉桂色口紅和腮紅將與您的整個衣櫃完美搭配。穿紅色衣服時，請搭配濃鬱的磚紅色，永遠避免像瘟疫一樣的藍色調紅色。如果您的眼睛是藍眼睛，則用咖啡色或苔綠色鉛筆或水鴨藍色鉛筆框起來，您的眼睛會看起來最好。使用眼影時，在眼瞼上撒上杏色或淺金色，並用古銅色、古銅色或棕色眼影加強效果。

PRESENTING YOURSELF
展現自己

THE COOL WOMAN'S WARDROBE
酷女人的衣櫃

Overall Look:
整體外觀：

Rosy not light or dark -
玫瑰色不淺也不暗 -

Ash brown or blonde, or grey
灰棕色或金色，或灰色

Hair:
頭髮：

Eyes:
眼睛：

Blue or brown (whose previous dark hair is now grey)
藍色或棕色（以前的深色頭髮現在變成灰色）

Skintone:
膚色：

Pinky, rose-brown, beige, medium olive Famous examples of Cool Women: Barbara Bush, Germaine Greer, Anne Diamond, Joan Baez (right), Joan Plowright
粉紅色、玫瑰棕色、米色、中橄欖色酷女性的著名例子：Barbara Bush、Germaine Greer、Anne Diamond、Joan Baez（右）、Joan Plowright

Color Me Beautiful seasons:
給我上色美麗的季節：

Cool Summer or Cool Winter
涼爽的夏天或涼爽的冬天

GENERAL WARDROBE GUIDELINES
一般衣櫃指南

Steer clear of most browns, beiges, khaki and cream tones. Your colouring looks freshest in blue- or pink-based colours. Great new foundations are navy and charcoal but soften their usually severe im when they are worn with white and team them instead with mauve, pa blue, rose pink or soft fuchsia.
避開大多數棕色、米色、卡其色和奶油色。藍色或粉紅色的顏色看起來最新鮮。很棒的新粉底是海軍藍和木炭色，但當它們與白色搭配時，會軟化它們通常嚴肅的形象，並與淡紫色、淡藍色、玫瑰粉色或柔和的紫紅色搭配。

Pastels are wonderful for your blouses, dresses or jackets. How pastels in a complete outfit aren't strong enough for work, so they not good choices for a suit. Over an aqua shift dress try a navy swin 'cardigan' jacket.
粉彩非常適合您的襯衫、洋裝或夾克。整套服裝中的粉彩對於工作來說不夠強烈，所以它們不是西裝的好選擇。不妨在水綠色直筒洋裝外搭配海軍藍「開襟衫」夾克。

Your red has a blue cast to it. The burgundies will work but test opt out to ensure they aren't too ageing.
你的紅色帶有藍色調。勃根地酒會起作用，但要測試選擇退出以確保它們不會太陳舊。

Very sharp or bright colours can overpower you. Aim rather for ness and subtlety.
非常鮮明或明亮的顏色可能會讓你不知所措。瞄準的是本質和微妙。

COMPLEMENTARY MAKE-UP
互補彩妝

Light lipsticks will make you look older, so yours should match the int sity of your eyes. Brown-eyed Cool women can go for rich blue reds plums for lipsticks and blushers, while blue-eyed women of this type better in softer, rose pinks.
淺色口紅會讓你看起來更老，所以你的口紅應該與你眼睛的顏色相匹配。棕色眼睛的酷女性可以選擇濃鬱的藍紅色李子色作為口紅和腮紅，而藍眼睛的女性則可以選擇更柔和的玫瑰粉紅色。

Dust your eye-lids with soft pinks and define with grey, navy or pl shadows. The same colours for eye-liners will frame your eyes best.
在眼瞼上塗上柔和的粉紅色，並用灰色、海軍藍或 PL 色眼影勾勒輪廓。眼線顏色相同的顏色最能襯託你的眼睛。

PRESENTING YOURSELF
展現自己

THE CLEAR WOMAN'S WARDROBE
透明女士衣櫥

Overall Look:
整體外觀：

Bright and contrasting
明亮且對比鮮明

Hair:
頭髮：

Black, brown or rich grey
黑色、棕色或深灰色

Eyes:
眼睛：

Steel blue, green, clear hazel or rich brown
鋼藍、綠色、透明榛色或深棕色

Skin Tone:
膚色：

Porcelain, ivory, dark ash brown, clear yellow beige
瓷質、象牙色、深灰褐色、透明黃米色

Famous examples of Clear Women:
透明女性的著名例子：

Princess Caroline (far left), Elle McPherson, Pauline Collins, Oprah Winfrey (left)
卡洛琳公主（最左）、艾莉麥克弗森、寶琳柯林斯、歐普拉溫芙瑞（左）

Color Me Beautiful seasons: Clear Spring or Clear Winter
為我塗上美麗的季節：晴朗的春天或晴朗的冬天

GENERAL WARDROBE GUIDELINES
一般衣櫃指南

Use light and dark colours mixed together, or one bold colour on its own. Black, charcoal, royal blue and red will be basics you can mix with many other shades to look your best. Soft monochromatic blends, so elegant on others, will be boring on you regardless of the price or designer label.
混合使用淺色和深色，或單獨使用一種大膽的顏色。黑色、木炭色、寶藍色和紅色是基本色，您可以與許多其他色調混合，以創造最佳外觀。柔和的單色混紡在別人看來如此優雅，但在你看來卻很乏味，無論價格或設計師品牌為何。

Your striking colouring can overwhelm other people particularly if you limit your colours to strong neutrals such as black and navy. Lighten your impact by using more colour near your face. A bright yellow scarf or jacket will take the 'hard' edge off a black dress. Hot pink makes navy more feminine but still business-like.
你引人注目的色彩可能會壓倒其他人，特別是如果你將顏色限制為強烈的中性色，例如黑色和海軍藍。在臉部附近使用更多顏色來減輕影響力。亮黃色的圍巾或夾克可以消除黑色連身裙的「硬」感。亮粉色讓海軍藍變得更女性化，但仍具有商務氣息。

Taupe and pewter can lighten up your summertime wardrobe but never team with light colours; look to your primaries instead.
灰褐色和白鑞色可以點亮你的夏季衣櫥，但切勿與淺色搭配；而是看看你的初選。

COMPLEMENTARY MAKE-UP
互補彩妝

Your colouring is bold; so, too, must your make-up be. True red, strawberry or hot pink will complement most of your wardrobe. Test plum (cool-toned) versus salmon (warm-toned) blushers to see which is most natural on you. Your eyes should be the centre of attention so always define them. Match your shadows and eye-liner with the intensity of the colour of your eyes: softer shades if you are blue-eyed (for example, an opal pink with charcoal or navy) and stronger shades if you have hazel or brown-eyes (try, for example, apricot with plum or spruce).
你的色彩很大膽；你的妝容也必須如此。正紅色、草莓色或亮粉色將搭配您衣櫃的大部分顏色。測試梅子色（冷色調）和鮭魚色（暖色調）腮紅，看看哪一種最適合您。你的眼睛應該是注意力的中心，所以一定要定義它們。將眼影和眼線與眼睛顏色的強度相匹配：如果您是藍眼睛，則使用較柔和的色調（例如，帶有木炭色或海軍藍的蛋白石粉色）；如果您是淡褐色或棕色眼睛，則使用較濃的色調（嘗試，例如杏子配李子或雲杉）。

PRESENTING YOURSELF
展現自己

THE SOFT WOMAN'S WARDROBE
柔軟女人的衣櫃

Overall Look:
整體外觀：

Blended and muted Hair: Medium grey, mid or 'mousey brown, ash blonde Eyes: Blue green, brown, grey blue Skintone: Ivory, rose or yellow beige, light olive Famous examples of Soft Women:
混合和柔和的頭髮：中灰色、中灰色或米棕色、灰金色眼睛：藍綠色、棕色、灰藍色膚色：象牙色、玫瑰色或黃米色、淺橄欖色柔軟女性的著名例子：

Hillary Clinton, Joanna Lumley, Amanda DeCadenet, Jerry Hall, The Princess Royal, Cindy Crawford (right) Color Me Beautiful seasons:
希拉蕊·柯林頓、喬安娜·林莉、阿曼達·德卡德內、傑瑞·霍爾、皇家公主、辛蒂·克勞馥（右）為我塗上美麗的色彩季節：

Soft Summer or Soft Autumn
柔和的夏天還是柔和的秋天

GENERAL WARDROBE GUIDELINES
一般衣櫃指南

These women aren't obviously dark or light but somewhere in between. Bright colours are harsh on them but that doesn't mean they are limited in looking wonderful.
這些女性並不是明顯的深色或淺色，而是介於兩者之間。明亮的顏色對它們來說很刺眼，但這並不意味著它們在看起來漂亮方面受到限制。

If you fit this description, your colours need to be rich and blended. Monochromatic dressing when you use the same hue, but in lighter and darker values, is your most wonderful look. For example, you could try ivory, taupe, pewter and bronze mixed together. Something as stark as black and white would overwhelm your soft, subtle colouring.
如果您符合此描述，則您的顏色需要豐富且混合。當您使用相同的色調但具有較淺和較深的值時，單色著裝是您最美妙的外觀。例如，您可以嘗試將象牙色、灰褐色、白鑞色和青銅色混合在一起。像黑白這樣鮮明的東西會壓倒你柔和、微妙的色彩。

Your pinks can either be the rose or raspberry tones, if your skin is cool (that is, pinky) or muted salmons if your skin is better complemented by warm colours (that is, more golden or creamy).
如果您的皮膚是冷色（即粉紅色），您的粉紅色可以是玫瑰色或覆盆子色調；如果您的皮膚更適合暖色（即更金色或奶油色），則可以是柔和的鮭魚色。

COMPLEMENTARY MAKE-UP
互補彩妝

You need make-up to look alive but often despair at looking 'too made- up' when you experiment with strong colours. Your make-up must be soft and blended. Nothing too dark or too light for your lipsticks or eye-shadows. For every day, terracottas (if warm-toned skin) or plum rose (if cool-toned skin) will be your most attractive in lipsticks and blushers.
您需要化妝才能看起來充滿活力，但當您嘗試使用強烈的色彩時，常常會因為看起來「化得太濃」而感到失望。你的妝容必須柔和、混合。口紅或眼影不要太深或太淺。每天，赤土色（如果是暖色調皮膚）或梅子玫瑰色（如果是冷色調皮膚）將是口紅和腮紅中最有吸引力的顏色。

Reject colourful eyeshadows in favour of neutrals, to make the natural colours in your eyes 'come forward'. Try soft cocoa, grey or slate blue with a soft non-coloured highlighter, such as a pale melon.
拒絕彩色眼影，選擇中性色，讓眼睛的自然色彩「凸顯出來」。試試柔和的可可色、灰色或石板藍色，搭配柔和的非彩色螢光筆，例如淺瓜色。

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PRESENTING YOURSELF
展現自己

USING COLOUR FOR EFFECT
使用顏色來達到效果

Once you know which colours make you look best, naturally you'll want to learn how to use your palette strategically; different shades on different days to create different effects. What's needed for a tough presentation to the board will be wrong for a staff meeting at which you might want to find out what's troubling your people. So here's some advice on using colour to your best advantage.
一旦你知道哪種顏色讓你看起來最好，你自然會想要學習如何有策略地使用你的調色板；不同的日子使用不同的色調來創造不同的效果。向董事會進行艱難的陳述所需的內容對於員工會議來說是錯誤的，在員工會議上你可能想找出是什麼困擾著你的員工。因此，這裡有一些關於如何充分利用顏色的建議。

PROJECTING AUTHORITY
投影權威

Would you have much confidence in a judge who wore orange robes or a policewoman who wore a pink uniform?
你會對穿著橘色長袍的法官或穿著粉紅色制服的女警有信心嗎？

No, we've been conditioned to accept that certain colours and images project authority whilst others can achieve the exact opposite. When in doubt, think 'sober and classic' when it comes to colour to project authority, particularly in male-dominated industries such as finance and law. Every woman's palette has neutrals such as navy, olive, grey and pewter. Offset a neutral suit with a colourful blouse. Your white will project the most authority but can look too boring when teamed with safe neutrals. You might opt instead for one of your pastels or primaries making sure its effect is elegant, not insipid or too electric.
不，我們已經習慣於接受某些顏色和圖像代表權威，而其他顏色和圖像則可以達到完全相反的效果。如有疑問，當涉及到表達權威的顏色時，請考慮“冷靜和經典”，特別是在金融和法律等男性主導的行業。每個女人的調色板都有中性色，如海軍藍、橄欖色、灰色和白鑞色。中性西裝搭配彩色襯衫。你的白色會展現最大的權威，但與安全的中性色搭配時會顯得太無聊。您可以選擇其中一種粉彩或原色，以確保其效果優雅，而不是平淡或過於電動。

In situations when you particularly need to project power try a solid jacket or suit in rich red, deep blue or royal purple. These three colours have been used so extensively by women in recent years that they are almost categorised as new neutrals and convey confidence in who you are. Other colours like pinks, yellows, greens, browns, oranges, no matter how flattering they may be on you, won't project the image you want, when you need to say: I'm in charge, just in case any of you are in doubt!'
當您特別需要投射力量時，請嘗試穿著深紅色、深藍色或寶紫色的純色夾克或西裝。近年來，這三種顏色被女性廣泛使用，幾乎被歸類為新的中性色，傳達出對自己的自信。其他顏色，如粉紅色、黃色、綠色、棕色、橙色，無論它們在你身上多麼討人喜歡，都不會投射出你想要的形象，當你需要說：我負責，以防萬一你們中的任何一個人有疑問！

COLOUR CUES
顏色提示

Colour response research shows that mid-tone colours, particularly warmed greys and browns such as stone, pewter and camel are the most user-friendly colours. That is, they are perceived as the least threatening and are therefore the most effective in getting people to open up and speak their minds.
顏色響應研究表明，中間色調，特別是暖灰色和棕色，如石色、白鑞色和駝色，是最用戶友好的顏色。也就是說，它們被認為是威脅最小的，因此最能有效地讓人們敞開心扉說出自己的想法。

So for that meeting when you want people to share ideas or problems, don't wear your brightest colours or very bold contrast. Your choice that day should be an insignificant colour that, if asked, people might not even remember that you wore. Pewter, medium grey, bronze, camel, stone and taupe are good colours in which you can look approachable, not threatening.
因此，在會議上，當您希望人們分享想法或問題時，不要穿著最亮的顏色或非常大膽的對比色。你那天選擇的顏色應該是微不足道的顏色，如果被問到，人們甚至可能不記得你穿的衣服。白鑞色、中灰色、青銅色、駝色、石頭色和灰褐色都是不錯的顏色，可以讓你看起來平易近人，而不是具有威脅性。

START WITH COLOUR
從顏色開始

Wrong: Traditional business colours like navy and white can make you look pale, tired and overwhelmed if they don't suit your colouring
錯誤：海軍藍和白色等傳統商務顏色如果不適合你的顏色，會讓你看起來蒼白、疲倦和不知所措。

Wrong: No matter how pretty or flattering a colour might be, it must also look professional. Pastel suits and floral patterns rarely look right in business and lack authority
錯誤：無論顏色多麼漂亮或討人喜歡，它也必須看起來很專業。柔和的西裝和花卉圖案在商業中很少看起來合適且缺乏權威

Right: To look authoritative, select a deep colour from your personal palette (see pages 40-51) and offset it with ivory, white or a complementary pastel
右圖：為了顯得權威，請從您的個人調色板中選擇一種深色（請參閱第 40-51 頁），然後用象牙色、白色或互補的柔和色進行抵消

FEMININE YET PROFESSIONAL
女性化又專業

Every woman should know her best collegial colours to wear on days when she needs to win friends and influence people
每個女人都應該知道在需要贏得朋友和影響別人的日子裡穿什麼最適合她的學院風顏色

Businesswomen - like businessmen - come in many shapes, sizes and personalities. Some women are more 'feminine', more romantic by nature and are depressed if restricted to wearing very masculine, neutral colours, even though these are bearable to many other working women.
女商人和商人一樣，有多種體型、身材和個性。有些女性天生比較“女性化”，比較浪漫，如果只穿非常男性化、中性的顏色就會感到沮喪，儘管這些對於許多其他職業女性來說是可以忍受的。

PRESENTING YOURSELF
展現自己

However, some very 'feminine' women jeopardise their career prospects because they take their natural preferences too far and wear colours and styles that are simply inappropriate in a business setting. Different industries and different countries all set limits as to what is acceptable for women to wear. In professions and industries still pre- dominately run and staffed by men, women are cautioned not to give free reign to their feminine urges and buy suits or dresses in colours that stand out too much, that is, that are too light or too insipid - some pastels, for instance. Summertime is when many women fall victim to the tempting array of fashion suits in luscious pastel 'sorbet' shades. Resist them and choose instead medium-toned colours in lightweight fabrics, to look both elegant and appropriate.
然而，一些非常「女性化」的女性會危及她們的職業前景，因為她們太過於自然偏好，穿著與商務場合根本不合適的顏色和款式。不同的行業和不同的國家都對女性可以接受的穿著設定了限制。在仍然主要由男性經營和僱用的職業和行業中，女性被警告不要放任自己的女性慾望，購買顏色過於突出的套裝或連衣裙，即太淺或太平淡的——例如，一些粉彩。夏季是許多女性迷戀甜美柔和“果汁冰糕”色調的一系列誘人時尚套裝的時候。抵制它們並選擇輕質面料的中色調，看起來既優雅又得體。

If in doubt about a colour's appropriateness, ask yourself what the likelihood would be of one of your male colleagues being accepted in something very out of the ordinary, such as a light-coloured suit when the rest of his colleagues are more soberly attired. Certainly, men have more limitations on colour when considering what is acceptable and professional. But if you are seriously ambitious you cannot afford to disregard those limitations yourself.
如果對顏色是否合適有疑問，問問自己，你的一位男同事穿著非常不尋常的衣服被接受的可能性有多大，例如，當其他同事都穿著樸素的時候，他穿著淺色西裝。當然，在考慮什麼是可以接受的和專業的時，男性對顏色有更多的限制。但如果你雄心勃勃，你就不能忽視這些限制。

If you need consolation, remind yourself that pale or bright-coloured suits would make your dry-cleaning bills soar, and such treatments would soon cause the fabric to deteriorate. And because such a suit is more distinctive, people are more likely to notice if you wear it regularly, whereas a more neutral one can be accessorised in many different ways. It really is a question of moderation paying greater dividends on every score.
如果您需要安慰，請提醒自己，淺色或鮮豔的西裝會讓您的乾洗費用飆升，而且這種處理很快就會導致織物變質。而且由於這樣的西裝更加獨特，如果您經常穿著它，人們更容易注意到，而中性的西裝則可以透過多種不同的方式進行配件。這確實是一個適度的問題，在每個分數上都帶來更大的紅利。

CHAPTER 5
第 5 章

Working with your body
與你的身體一起工作

Co onsider your current wardrobe. Which clothes do you enjoy wearing most often? If you are like most women, with a mixture of successes and disasters in your wardrobe, you wear 20 per cent of your wardrobe 80 per cent of the time. Wouldn't you love to be able to get up in the morning and grab anything, knowing it is going to fit, feel comfortable all day and look terrific? Well, it isn't an impossible dream, but you will have to work at it - and in addition to wearing colours that complement your colouring, you will also need to learn which styles complement your body.
考慮一下您目前的衣櫃。您最喜歡穿哪些衣服？如果你像大多數女性一樣，你的衣櫃裡既有成功也有災難，那麼你在 80% 的時間裡只穿衣櫃裡的 20%。您是否希望能夠在早上起床並抓起任何東西，知道它會合身、一整天都感覺舒適並且看起來棒極了？嗯，這不是一個不可能實現的夢想，但您必須為此努力 - 除了穿著與您的膚色相配的顏色之外，您還需要了解哪些款式與您的身體相匹配。

RECOGNISING YOUR BODY SHAPE
認識你的體型

An exercise I set during many of my seminars is to ask women to draw an outline of their bodies. Heaving a heavy sigh, with markers poised over a blank piece of paper, they set to work. Within minutes the giggles start, particularly when they start peeking at their neighbours` images. I do an outline of myself. This is what it looks like:
我在許多研討會上設定的一個練習是要求女性畫出她們身體的輪廓。他們重重地嘆了一口氣，把記號筆放在一張白紙上，開始工作。幾分鐘之內，人們開始咯咯地笑，尤其是當他們開始偷看鄰居的照片時。我給自己畫了一個輪廓。它看起來是這樣的：

I have been told by reliable, unbiased sources that I don't actually have a head like a brick bunker nor legs like a duck. But that's how I see myself, when I look in a full-length mirror, unclad.
可靠、公正的消息來源告訴我，我實際上沒有像磚碉堡一樣的頭，也沒有像鴨子一樣的腿。但這就是當我赤裸裸地照著全身鏡時我看到的自己。

All women can give you an immediate listing of their physical inadequacies: 'To begin with, I am overweight. My thighs are enormous, my neck too short and my arms better left covered at all times. And so on...
所有女性都可以立即列出她們身體上的缺陷：“首先，我超重。”我的大腿很大，我的脖子太短，我的手臂最好一直被遮住。等等...

PRESENTING YOURSELF
展現自己

Few women have perfect bodies and most are sensitive about their shortcomings, real or imagined. No doubt you feel that you have a few, too but they should not be allowed to overwhelm you so that you can't get on with your life and your career. Simply face up to your body basics and then learn which styles are most flattering and what are the best options for you to consider for work.
很少有女性擁有完美的身材，大多數女性對自己的缺點（無論是真實的還是想像的）都很敏感。毫無疑問，你覺得自己也有一些，但不應該讓它們壓垮你，以免你無法繼續你的生活和事業。只要正視您的身體基礎知識，然後了解哪些款式最討人喜歡，以及哪些是您在工作中考慮的最佳選擇。

In my previous book, The Complete Style Guide, I devoted 25 pages to a discussion of the Seven Basic Body Shapes we at CMB use to help women understand their basic shape. When women think about their shape they often think only of the lumps and bumps, or where they are widest; understandable, but demoralising and not appropriate. Instead, you should start by determining which of the following shapes is nearest to your own:
在我的上一本書《完整風格指南》中，我用了 25 頁的篇幅討論了 CMB 用來幫助女性了解其基本體型的七種基本體型。當女性考慮自己的體形時，她們通常只想到腫塊和腫塊，或最寬的地方；可以理解，但令人士氣低落且不合適。相反，您應該先確定以下哪個形狀最接近您自己的形狀：

An angular shape - like a rectangle with no waist and fairly flat hips and bottom.
有稜角的形狀－像一個沒有腰部的長方形，臀部和底部相當平坦。

A curved shape, with a defined waist, and rounded hips and bottom. A combination of angles and curves: straight shoulders, definite waist and curvy bottom.
曲線形，腰部輪廓分明，臀部和臀部呈圓形。角度與曲線的結合：直肩、明確的腰部和彎曲的底部。

◆ A full-figured round body, often combined with a short waist and long legs.
◆ 身材豐滿圓潤，常是腰短腿長。

Remember, when trying to assess your body shape, do so from the front as well as the side. You might look quite full or round from the side but have quite a flat or straight silhouette from the front. If your bust and hip measurements are ample it does not necessarily mean that you are Curvy. Your bottom may be flat and although your hips are wide, they will look better in neat, undarted styles. What you should check is the extent to which there is definition between the zones, how defined your waist is, how indented the small of your back is, if your hips and bottom are flat (be they 36 inch or 56 inch) or if they are rounder, more curvy.
請記住，在嘗試評估您的體型時，請從正面和側面進行評估。從側面看，您可能看起來很豐滿或很圓，但從正面看，您的輪廓卻很平坦或筆直。如果您的胸圍和臀圍足夠大，並不一定意味著您有曲線。你的臀部可能是平的，儘管你的臀部很寬，但如果是整潔、無省道的款式，它們會看起來更好。您應該檢查的是各區域之間的清晰度程度、您的腰部的清晰度、您的腰部的凹進程度、您的臀部和臀部是否平坦（無論是 36 英寸還是 56 英寸）或它們是否平坦。更圓，更有曲線。

Once you have determined your basic shape, just check out your options, accordingly, in the following sections.
一旦確定了基本形狀，只需在以下部分中相應地檢查您的選項即可。

THE ANGULAR WOMAN'S CLOTHES OPTIONS
棱角分明的女士服裝選擇

Now let's consider a woman who has a straight, angular body. She wants to change her look, and goes shopping for a dress to go under some of her jackets. After some deliberation, she buys a silk one with a gathered waist. Now, no matter how much she has spent on the dress, it will look
現在讓我們考慮一位身材筆直、棱角分明的女性。她想改變自己的造型，於是去買了一件裙子來穿在她的一些夾克下面。想了想，她買了一件絲綢的收腰的。現在，無論她在這件衣服上花了多少錢，它看起來都會

ngular figure
角形圖

WORKING WITH YOUR BODY
與你的身體一起工作

inexpensive and unsuccessful on her because such a soft fabric does not compliment her straight body. She would look much more interesting in a tightly woven material, such as a silk-linen blend or fine wool crêpe. Also, identifying a waistline which, in essence, she doesn't have doesn't do her figure justice. A better choice would be a chemise style or a coat- dress, with no waist emphasis.
這對她來說既便宜又不成功，因為如此柔軟的面料與她筆直的身體不相稱。如果她穿著絲麻混紡或細羊毛縐紗等緊密編織的材料，她看起來會更有趣。此外，確定她本質上沒有的腰圍並不符合她的身材。更好的選擇是襯裙款式或外套連身裙，不強調腰部。

If you have decided that your body shape is essentially Angular, then here are some tips on selecting styles that make the most of your fea- tures.
如果您確定自己的體型本質上是有棱角的，那麼這裡有一些關於選擇能夠充分利用您的特徵的款式的提示。

Silhouettes
剪影

Straight lines · • Simple and unconstructed Square shoulders (regardless of padding) • Waist-definition (only if you have one) Tailored and tapered designs
直線條·· 簡單、無結構的方肩（無論襯墊如何）· 腰部輪廓（僅當您有一個時）剪裁和錐形設計

Fabrics
布料

· • Crisp cottons and linens • Wool that retains its shape, e.g. gaberdine, twill, tweed Tightly woven knits and jerseys • Silk that's stiff (e.g. raw silk), blended with linen • Blends of natural and man-made fibres with body, i.e. which don't drape excessively
· · 清爽的棉布和亞麻布· 保持其形狀的羊毛，例如華達呢、斜紋布、花呢· 緊密編織的針織物和平針織物· 硬挺的絲綢（例如生絲），與亞麻混紡· 天然纖維和人造纖維的混紡，即不會過度垂墜

Details
細節

. Sharp lapels, e.g. peaked or notched; asymmetrical • Edge to edge closings • Lapel-less jackets Minimal darts or tucks at the waist (unless yours is defined) Stiff or pressed-down pleats cross-over, wrap-around, slit, knife-pleat skirts · . Straight,
。尖駁領，例如尖駁領或缺角駁領；不對稱 • 邊對邊閉合 • 無翻領夾克腰部有最少的省道或褶皺（除非您的腰部有明確規定）硬褶或下壓褶交叉、環繞、開衩、刀形褶裙 · 。直的，

Patterns
圖案

• Stripes of all widths • Fine to moderate polka dots metric weaves in shape • Modest paisleys • Plaids or geo- • Abstracts that are more geometric
• 各種寬度的條紋 • 細到中等圓點形狀的公制編織 • 適度的佩斯利花紋 • 格子或地理圖案 • 更具幾何形狀的抽象

THE CURVY WOMAN'S CLOTHES OPTIONS
曲線優美女士的服裝選擇

If you select styles that are complimentary to your build, you will look your best, feel comfortable and even look slimmer. Consider the woman with a very feminine, curvy body: a full bust line, nice waist and full hips. In shopping for a business suit she buys a very smart Chanel-style with a short body jacket in a crisp wool gaberdine. The suit is the right size, and she has chosen a great colour for her. But she doesn't look good in it, because both the style and the fabric are wrong for her body type. Stiff fabrics, straight lines in jackets and skirts, and boxy cuts, make a woman
如果您選擇的款式與您的身材相得益彰，您會看起來最好、感覺舒適，甚至看起來更苗條。想像一下擁有非常女性化、曲線優美的身體的女性：豐滿的胸圍、優美的腰部和豐滿的臀部。在購買西裝時，她買了一件非常漂亮的香奈兒風格的短緊身夾克，採用挺括的羊毛華達呢製成。這套衣服尺寸合適，而且她還為她選擇了很好的顏色。但她穿起來並不好看，因為款式和布料都不適合她的體型。硬挺的布料、夾克和裙子的直線條以及四四方方的剪裁，塑造出女人味

Curvy figure
曲線優美的身材

PRESENTING YOURSELF
展現自己

with a soft, curvy shape look chunky and shapeless. Her lovely bust line, trim waist and feminine hips are all lost in a style like this.
柔軟、有曲線的形狀看起來又粗又無形。她可愛的胸圍、纖細的腰部和女性化的臀部都在這樣的風格中消失了。

Women with curvy shapes, and wanting to make the most of themselves, should select from the following:
身材曲線優美、想要充分展現自己的女性應該從以下選擇：

Silhouettes
剪影

• Defined at the waist unconstructed shapes · • • Rounded and flowing designs . Softly Raglan or softly set-in shoulders; not very square Easy movement in skirts
• 腰部輪廓分明，無結構形狀••• 圓潤流暢的設計。輕輕插肩或輕柔嵌入肩部；不是很方形裙子容易移動

Fabrics
布料

• Silk crêpe de Chine • Silk-like • Jersey (cotton, wool, silk, blend) micro-fibres • Stone-washed silk • Wool crêpe Bouclé • Lambswool . Chambray • Fine flannel • Soft brocades
• 絲質雙縐 • 仿絲 • 針織物（棉、羊毛、絲綢、混紡）超細纖維 • 石洗絲綢 • 羊毛縐紗 • 羊羔絨。青年布 • 精細法蘭絨 • 柔軟錦緞

Details
細節

• • Soft gathers, inverted • Draped collars, such as shawl collars Lapel-less jackets • Soft necklines • Cinched waists; belted designs pleats at waistline • Gored, bell, sarong, dirndl skirts
• • 柔軟褶皺，倒立 • 垂褶領子，如青果領無翻領夾克 • 柔軟領口 • 收緊腰部；腰帶設計腰部有褶皺 • 戈爾德裙、喇叭裙、紗籠裙、緊身裙

Patterns
圖案

• Paisleys (not square) • Soft abstracts • Polka dots •Multi-coloured weaves • Abstract florals (flowers generally aren't professional)
• 佩斯利花紋（非方形） • 柔和的抽象圖案 • 波爾卡圓點 • 多色編織 • 抽象花卉圖案（花卉通常不專業）

THE SOFTENED STRAIGHT WOMAN'S CLOTHES OPTIONS
柔和直女的穿搭選擇

Many women are a combination of angles and curves; in CMB parlance they are a Soft Straight type. These women have very straight shoulders but a definite waist and a curvy bottom. They need to follow some of the advice for the Angular women in silhouettes and details but use the softer fabrics recommended for the Curvy women. They don't need the same amount of softness as the Curvy women, nor the really crisp look so wonderful on Angular women. If you are a Soft Straight woman, it is really over the waist and bottom that you want the ease and movement, so wear the same skirts and trousers as your Curvy friends.
許多女性都是稜角與曲線的結合；用 CMB 的話來說，它們是軟直型。這些女性的肩膀很直，但腰部很明確，臀部有曲線。她們需要在輪廓和細節方面遵循針對棱角型女性的一些建議，但使用針對曲線型女性建議的更柔軟的面料。她們不需要曲線女性那樣的柔軟度，也不需要棱角分明的女性那種美妙的清脆外觀。如果你是一個軟直的女人，你真正想要的是腰部和臀部以上的輕鬆和動感，所以穿和你的曲線朋友一樣的裙子和褲子。

Softened straight figure
軟化直身形

THE FULL-FIGURED, ROUND-BODIED WOMAN'S CLOTHES OPTIONS
豐滿身材、圓潤女性的服裝選擇

This figure can look wonderful at work or at play. She just has to be very selective in putting her look together. If this is your body shape, you are probably fullest in the waist (often this problem is exacerbated by you
這個人物在工作或玩耍時看起來都很棒。她只需要非常有選擇性地搭配自己的造型。如果這是你的體型，那麼你的腰部可能最豐滿（通常這個問題會因為你的身材而加劇）

WORKING WITH YOUR BODY
與你的身體一起工作

being shorter in the waist, but you may have terrific long legs!). You need simple styles that drape from the shoulder in a straight line, distracting the eye away from your fullest point, the waist. So, follow the advice of the Angular women but use fabrics that move (e.g. those advised for Curvy women).
雖然腰比較短，但是腿卻很長！您需要簡單的款式，從肩部呈直線垂下來，將視線從您最豐滿的部位（腰部）上轉移開。因此，請遵循有棱角女性的建議，但使用可移動的布料（例如建議曲線女性使用的布料）。

BALANCING TRICKS
平衡技巧

Now let's look in more detail at very common figure problems. The key to a terrific look, whatever your body shape, is to be in harmony with yourself and to aim for a balanced look. When hemlines soar above the knee or drop dramatically to the ankles, getting this balanced look can be tricky for those of us who are not perfectly proportioned, but look upon this as an interesting challenge, not an impossible hurdle.
現在讓我們更詳細地了解非常常見的圖形問題。無論您的體型如何，完美外觀的關鍵是與自己和諧並力求平衡的外觀。當裙子高至膝蓋以上或急劇下降至腳踝時，對於我們這些比例不完美的人來說，獲得這種平衡的外觀可能很困難，但將此視為一個有趣的挑戰，而不是一個不可能的障礙。

Here are a few of the most frequent challenges, with suggestions for creating an illusion of a proportioned or balanced figure.
以下是一些最常見的挑戰，以及營造比例或平衡身材錯覺的建議。

PEAR-SHAPES
梨形身材

If you are narrow at the shoulders, never buy a jacket that is neat and fitted. Your goal is to look wider in the shoulders and the way to achieve this is to wear loose jackets and tops and to layer your look above the waist. So, if you are a size 18 in skirts and trousers and size 14 on top, try on a size 16 jacket. Have the sleeves shortened, if necessary, and have the collar altered to fit more snugly if possible. Minimise the volume on your lower half within the limits of comfort: avoid wide skirts or those cut on the bias, which would visually 'pull you down' and create more 'weight' on your bottom half (where you don't want it).
如果你的肩膀很窄，千萬不要買一件整潔合身的夾克。您的目標是讓肩膀看起來更寬，實現這一目標的方法是穿著寬鬆的夾克和上衣，並將您的外觀分層到腰部以上。因此，如果您的裙子和褲子尺寸為 18，上衣尺寸為 14，請嘗試穿著 16 號夾克。如有必要，縮短袖子，並修改衣領以使其更貼身（如果可能）。在舒適的範圍內盡量減少下半身的體積：避免穿寬裙子或斜裁的裙子，這會在視覺上“把你拉低”，並在下半身產生更多“重量”（在你不想要的地方）。

Wear brighter colours, patterns and details on your top half. Try layering with shawls or scarves; or wear a waistcoat underneath your jacket to add needed volume.
在上半身穿著更明亮的顏色、圖案和細節。嘗試疊戴披肩或圍巾；或在夾克下面穿一件背心以增加所需的體積。

SHORT-WAISTS
短腰

Full figure
全圖

Women with this figure problem can be very trim and yet look fat, if they choose the wrong style jacket or dress.
有這種身材問題的女性如果選擇了錯誤款式的夾克或連身裙，可能非常苗條，但看起來卻很胖。

Longer jackets (below the hip-line to just above the knee) are more flattering because they draw attention away from where you have no length. Team the jackets with short or long skirts. You are better in the latter, as you probably have been overcompensated with long legs and can therefore successfully show-off the more interesting, longer lengths.
較長的夾克（從臀部線以下到膝蓋上方）更討人喜歡，因為它們會將注意力從你沒有長度的地方轉移開。將夾克與短裙或長裙搭配。你在後者方面表現更好，因為你可能已經過度補償了長腿，因此可以成功地展示更有趣、更長的長度。

PRESENTING YOURSELF
展現自己

Just avoid full skirts. Long, and lean styles are more professional.
只是避免穿長裙。修長、瘦長的款式更專業。

A trick that brings 'wow-wees' from my audiences, is that if you wear a belt in the same colour as your top or blouse you can actually add length to your short torso. This is particularly effective when wearing black, navy or other neutral colours but I would not recommend you to wear white belts with your white blouses. So this tip, while effective, has its limits.
一個讓我的觀眾驚嘆不已的技巧是，如果你繫一條與你的上衣或襯衫顏色相同的腰帶，你實際上可以增加你的短軀幹的長度。這在穿著黑色、海軍藍或其他中性顏色時特別有效，但我不建議您在白色襯衫上繫上白色腰帶。因此，這個技巧雖然有效，但也有其限制。

In dresses, opt for the simple coatdress, chemise or dropped waistline to look your sleekest.
在洋裝方面，選擇簡單的外套式洋裝、襯裙或低腰款，讓您看起來最時尚。

LONG-WAISTS
長腰

If this is your particular challenge, you'd probably describe yourself as- being 'all body and no legs'. To create balance you need to make your lower half appear longer and to shorten your long torso. The short jacket was made for you. Long styles squash you deeper into the ground unless worn with a short skirt just peaking out from underneath. Keep the attention at the waist - which is often enviably trim on women of this type and above, with minimal details in your skirts and trousers.
如果這是您面臨的特殊挑戰，您可能會將自己描述為「全身無腿」。為了創造平衡，你需要讓你的下半身看起來更長，並縮短你的長軀幹。這件短夾克是為你量身訂做的。長款款式會把你壓得更深，除非搭配從下面露出來的短裙。將注意力集中在腰部——對於這種類型及以上類型的女性來說，腰部通常是令人羨慕的，裙子和褲子上的細節很少。

Emphasise your waist by using belts to 'break-up' the area visually but avoid belts in the same colour as your top because these would only serve to make you look even longer through the waist. If you match you belts to your skirts and trousers instead, you will elongate the lower half
透過使用腰帶在視覺上「分解」該區域來強調你的腰部，但避免使用與上衣顏色相同的腰帶，因為這些只會讓你的腰部看起來更長。如果你將腰帶與裙子和褲子搭配，你會拉長下半身

Show some leg, too. Even when longer styles prevail, wear your skirt no lower than mid-calf. Your best skirt length, if your legs are good, wil be at or above the knee.
也秀一下腿吧。即使較長的款式盛行，裙子的高度也不要低於小腿中部。如果你的腿很好，你最好的裙子長度是膝蓋或膝蓋以上。

When buying dresses, try waisted designs, empire or a chemise styl to which you can add a really interesting belt.
購買洋裝時，請嘗試收腰設計、帝國風格或襯裙風格，您可以在其中添加一條非常有趣的腰帶。

For more details on successfully handling your particular figure cha lenges see The Complete Style Guide.
有關成功處理特定身材挑戰的更多詳細信息，請參閱完整風格指南。

ABOVE OR BELOW AVERAGE SIZE
高於或低於平均尺寸

Women who are not average in size can have enormous challenges finding clothes to look good at work. America is heaven for these 'ou sizes', with stores at every price point catering for women of all shap and sizes. Outside the States, the average-sized woman is determined b each country's fashion industry. She and her lucky friends a few siz smaller or larger are the ones with the most choice. In Germany, ta women do very well, while the petite ones and those of average heig
身材不正常的女性在尋找適合工作的衣服時面臨巨大的挑戰。美國是這些「ou size」的天堂，各個價位的商店都能滿足各種體型和身材的女性的需求。在美國以外，女性的平均身材由每個國家的時尚產業決定。她和她的幸運朋友們，無論是小幾號還是大幾號，都是擁有最多選擇的人。在德國，ta女性做得很好，而身材嬌小的和普通身高的女性則做得很好。

WORKING WITH YOUR BODY
與你的身體一起工作

but overweight have difficulty. In France, every woman is expected to have small bones and be average to short; so the tall and the heavy have nowhere to shop. In Britain, where almost 50 per cent of the population are over a size 16 and under 5ft 4 inches, the industry surprisingly caters for an 'average' woman two sizes smaller and two inches taller, so most British women have difficulty in getting things that fit properly.
但超重有困難。在法國，每個女性都被認為骨骼較小，身材中等偏矮。所以身材高大的人無處可去購物。在英國，幾乎50% 的人口尺寸在16 碼以上且身高在5 英尺4 英寸以下，令人驚訝的是，該行業迎合的是小兩碼、高兩英寸的“普通”女性，因此大多數英國女性很難買到符合標準的衣服。

With fashions for larger and smaller women being harder to find, here are some extra tips for those who are not 'Ms Average', but who need to and can look successful.
由於適合體型較大和身材較小的女性的時裝越來越難找到，這裡為那些不是“普通女士”但需要並且能夠看起來成功的人提供了一些額外的建議。

LARGE WOMEN
大女人

You can't afford to settle for clothes that 'make do'. With the prevailing prejudice against those who are overweight, you need to do everything you can to look healthy, energetic and professional.
你不能滿足於「湊合」的衣服。由於對超重者普遍存在偏見，您需要盡一切努力讓自己看起來健康、充滿活力和專業。

Wearing the colours from your seasonal palette can help on all counts. Check again in the previous chapter, and see if your own wardrobe contains the shades that bring out the best in you, that focus attention to your face. Be bold in your colour choices for blouses, jackets and scarves, and opt for neutral and deeper tones for skirts and trousers.
穿著季節性調色板中的顏色可以在各個方面都有幫助。再次檢查上一章，看看您自己的衣櫃中是否包含能展現您最好的一面、將注意力集中在您的臉部的色調。襯衫、夾克和圍巾的顏色選擇要大膽，裙子和褲子的顏色選擇中性和更深的色調。

Simplicity in style is most effective for you. Avoid distinguishable patterns in suits (jackets, skirts and blouses), choosing plain, quality fabrics in your best colours. Attractive patterns should be reserved for your blouses or scarves. Use striking accessories like brooches, earrings or a printed shawl draped over one shoulder.
簡單的風格對你來說是最有效的。避免在西裝（夾克、裙子和襯衫）中使用明顯的圖案，選擇最適合您的顏色的素色、優質布料。有吸引力的圖案應該保留在您的襯衫或圍巾上。使用引人注目的配件，如胸針、耳環或披在肩上的印花披肩。

Keep the cut of your clothes loose and elegant. Store away any blouses, jackets and skirts with straining buttons or fastenings until you are that size again or, if you are happy with your present size, regardless of dimensions, let others know it by wearing attractive outfits to project confidence in who you are. Resolve to sell quality garments that no longer fit to one of the many 'thrift' shops now opening up on local high streets. Failing that, give them away to a smaller friend, or a charity shop.
保持衣服剪裁寬鬆、優雅。收起所有帶有拉緊紐扣或緊固件的襯衫、夾克和裙子，直到您恢復到原來的尺碼為止，或者，如果您對目前的尺碼感到滿意，無論尺碼如何，請穿著有吸引力的服裝讓別人知道，以表現出對您的自信。決心出售不再適合當地大街上開設的眾多“舊貨”商店之一的優質服裝。如果做不到這一點，請將它們送給較小的朋友或慈善商店。

See the guidelines on proper fit in Chapter 7. All apply to you, as they do for the averaged size women. The colour, quality and fit of your clothes are more important than the style. Hence, worry less about being at the cutting edge of fashion and concentrate instead on looking appropriate, elegant and timeless.
請參閱第 7 章中有關正確合身的指南。衣服的顏色、品質和合身程度比款式更重要。因此，不用擔心自己處於時尚前沿，而是專注於讓自己看起來得體、優雅和永恆。

If rethinking your size, and possibly considering a diet and exercise programme, in the meantime look your best every day by paying extra attention to your grooming. Treat yourself to a new hairstyle or hair colour (only going so far as to enhance what is or was natural) and wear perfect make-up every day. Your colleagues and clients will be so dazzled
如果重新考慮自己的身材，並可能考慮飲食和運動計劃，請同時格外注意自己的儀容儀表，讓自己每天都保持最佳狀態。給自己一個新的髮型或髮色（僅限於增強自然的效果）並每天化完美的妝容。你的同事和客戶一定會眼花撩亂

PRESENTING YOURSELF
展現自己

by your face that they won't 'size you up'. The following guidelines on clothes to try, or avoid, should also help.
從你的表情來看，他們不會「打量你」。以下關於嘗試或避免穿的衣服的指南也應該有所幫助。

What to try
嘗試什麼

Easy jackets and tops that end below your widest point, e.g. under your bottom or longer. Unconstructed jackets like the 'cardigan' style jacket. Tunic tops, loose waistcoats, or smart overblouses in substantial, not flimsy, fabric in lieu of jackets.
簡單的夾克和上衣長度低於最寬點，例如低於臀部或更長。無結構的夾克，如“羊毛衫”風格的夾克。束腰上衣、寬鬆背心或漂亮的罩衫，採用堅固而不是輕薄的布料代替夾克。

Solid dark colours on your lower half. Your brightest 'personality' colours near your face.
下半身採用純深色。最明亮的“個性”顏色靠近您的臉。

Vertical patterns, e.g. pin-stripes.
垂直圖案，例如細條紋。

Bold patterns in blouses
襯衫上的大膽圖案

and scarves. Loose-fitting clothes.
和圍巾。寬鬆的衣服。

Long jewellery to create vertical lines.
長版珠寶打造垂直線條。

Bold accessories balance best with your size.
大膽的配件最適合您的尺寸。

What to avoid
要避免什麼

Any waist definition, such as found on fitted jackets and dresses.
任何腰部定義，例如合身夾克和連身裙上的腰部定義。

Bulky texture. 'Fat fabrics' such as mohair, loose knit, heavy tweeds will make you look fuller.
質地厚重。馬海毛、寬鬆針織品、厚重花呢等「胖布料」會讓你看起來更豐滿。

Light colours except in blouses.
淺色，襯衫除外。

Darker toned hosiery.
深色襪子。

Substantial shoes with a
實質的鞋子

Patterns on your lower half.
下半身有圖案。

Horizontal patterns or defining features.
水平圖案或定義特徵。

Dinky, 'twee' patterns.
微小的“花俏”圖案。

e.g. the classic court.
例如經典法庭。

Anything too snug.
任何東西都太舒服了。

Chokers and short necklaces define the width of your neck, which you might not want.
頸鍊和短項鍊會限制您脖子的寬度，這可能是您不想要的。

Tiny accessories make you look larger.
微小的配件讓你看起來更大。

modest, stacked heel are best,
適度的疊跟是最好的，

Light or 'suntan' hosiery.
淺色或「曬黑」襪。

Flat shoes or stilettos.
平底鞋或細跟鞋。

SMALL WOMEN
小女人

Petite women in business can have a hard time establishing a presence due to their small stature. They might be human dynamos but can give
由於身材嬌小，身材嬌小的商界女性很難站穩腳步。他們可能是人類的發電機，但可以給予

WORKING WITH YOUR BODY
與你的身體一起工作

the opposite impression if they dress in a way that emphasises both their sex and diminutive stature.
如果她們的穿著既強調性別又強調身材矮小，則會產生相反的印象。

Through colour, you can project presence and strength. Use the deepest and the boldest colours in your seasonal palette, regardless of your personality, to look more substantial and positive. Sweet pastels project vulnerability and will ensure you get passed over every time you wear them. Neutral colours in small but 'business-like' patterns, such as pinstripes, houndstooth, Prince of Wales checks, are preferable to florals or anything too feminine. Using one colour or monochromatic blends of one colour (for example, toning shades of blue) can help to create an illusion of greater height.
透過顏色，您可以展現存在感和力量。無論您的個性如何，請在季節性調色板中使用最深和最大膽的顏色，讓自己看起來更加充實和積極。甜美的粉彩凸顯出脆弱的一面，確保你每次穿上它們都會被忽略。中性色小而「商務」的圖案，如細條紋、千鳥格、威爾斯親王格紋，比花卉或任何過於女性化的圖案更可取。使用一種顏色或一種顏色的單色混合（例如藍色色調）有助於創造更高的錯覺。

Show your legs! Long skirts, no matter how chic, current and comfortable, simply swamp you. Trousers suits often work well on petite women projecting a ‘pseudo-macho' confidence without really threatening the boys. How can you at 5ft 2inches?
露出你的腿！長裙，無論多麼別緻、多麼時尚、多麼舒適，都會讓你不知所措。褲裝通常很適合身材嬌小的女性，既能展現出「偽男子氣概」的自信，又不會真正威脅到男孩。你怎麼能在5英尺2英寸的高度？

Avoid twinky accessories and details, such as lace or bow collars, antique dangling earrings or tiny, insignificant brooches. You do have to be careful not to appear that you are being worn by your accessories rather than vice versa - they must be in scale - but they must also be significant.
避免使用閃亮的配件和細節，例如蕾絲或蝴蝶結領、古董垂墜耳環或微小的、無關緊要的胸針。你必須小心，不要顯得你被你的配件所磨損，反之亦然——它們必須是按比例的——但它們也必須是重要的。

A modest heel will enhance your natural stature but don't ever try to fake extra inches - because you won't succeed - in stilettos; small women tottering along in ridiculously high heels are a comical sight. You can't make a strong entrance in such styles and you risk making a complete fool of yourself if you fall in them.
適中的鞋跟會增強你的自然身材，但永遠不要試圖穿著細高跟鞋假裝額外英寸——因為你不會成功；身材矮小的女人穿著高得離譜的高跟鞋搖搖晃晃地走著，這是一個滑稽的景象。你不可能在這種風格中脫穎而出，而且如果你陷入其中，你就有可能完全出醜。

What to try
嘗試什麼

Fitted jackets, if complimentary.
合身夾克（如果免費）。

What to avoid
要避免什麼

Finely-woven, 'tight' fabrics.
精細編織的「緊密」布料。

Loose, overscale jackets which will swamp you.
寬鬆、超大的夾克會讓你不知所措。

If thin, layer loose-fitted components; for example, a blouse, waistcoat then a jacket.
如果薄，則分層鬆散安裝的組件；例如，襯衫、背心和夾克。

Excessive shoulder pads.
墊肩過多。

Modest patterns.
樸素的圖案。

A lot of bulk and texture.
很多體積和質感。

High confidence colours in jackets, suits and dresses your red, blues, purples, etc.
夾克、西裝和洋裝的高置信度顏色：紅色、藍色、紫色等。

Very bold or contrasting patterns can overwhelm your small stature.
非常大膽或對比鮮明的圖案可能會壓垮您嬌小的身材。

Very light or very dark colours, head to toe.
從頭到腳的顏色非常淺或非常深。

PRESENTING YOURSELF
展現自己

PROPORTIONAL DRESSING
比例著裝

1. Suit components in equal proportions divide the body in half. On petites, best only if in the same colour. Avoid if big- boned
1.等比例的套裝部件將身體分成兩半。如果身材嬌小，最好選擇相同顏色。如果骨骼大，請避免

2. Short or cropped jackets with trousers give illusion of longer legs. Good for petites and average as well as long-waisted. Trim bottoms and thighs necessary
2.短或七分夾克搭配褲子會給人腿更長的錯覺。適合嬌小、中等身材和長腰的人。必要時修剪臀部和大腿

112

3. Longer jackets lengthen the torso. Good on the average to tall and short or full-waisted
3. 較長的夾克可以拉長軀幹。平均身材好到高矮或全腰

4. Long jackets with long skirts are only for the over 5' 7 and the long-legged. Petites avoid at all cost
4. 長外套配長裙只適合身高5英尺7以上且腿長的人。小個子不惜一切代價避免

1.2

5. Here's how petite to average women look sharpest in the long-skirted suit (unless short- waisted)
5.以下是嬌小的普通女性穿長裙套裝時看起來最犀利的方式（除非是短腰）

-13

6. Longer jackets are most comfortable for all sizes. For petite to average, have jackets almost reach skirt hem. Good on shorter women with full figures. Single- breasted designs are the most slimming
6. 較長的夾克對於所有尺寸來說都是最舒適的。對於身材嬌小到中等身材的人來說，夾克應該幾乎到達裙子下擺。適合身材矮小、身材豐滿的女性。單排扣的設計是最顯瘦的

CHAPTER 6 R 6
第 6 章 R 6

A Wardrobe that Works
實用的衣櫃

Back to the wardrobe. Have you already taken the time to develop a jackets, skirts, blouses and trousers together, according to colour compatibility to help bring reason and greater versatility to your life? If not, then start today.
回到衣櫃。您是否已經花時間根據顏色相容性一起開發夾克、裙子、襯衫和褲子，以幫助為您的生活帶來理性和更多的多功能性？如果沒有，那就從今天開始吧。

So far, we've talked about the colours and styles that will be most flattering to you. Now we need to identify a number of basic garments that in various permutations will give you the most variety for your busy life, bearing in mind your seasonal palette wardrobe options, and the fabrics, textures and styles appropriate for your body type. With any luck, you may have some, if not all, of these in your present wardrobe - in which case you can move on to the suggestions for gradually building up that basic components wardrobe into an even more versatile one.
到目前為止，我們已經討論了最適合您的顏色和風格。現在，我們需要確定一些基本服裝，這些服裝以不同的排列方式為您的忙碌生活提供最多的多樣性，同時考慮到您的季節性衣櫃選擇，以及適合您體型的面料、質地和款式。如果運氣好的話，您現在的衣櫥裡可能會擁有其中的一些（如果不是全部的話）——在這種情況下，您可以繼續閱讀建議，逐步將基本的衣櫥打造為更加多功能的衣櫥。

BUILDING A WORKING WARDROBE
打造工作衣櫃

Let's take various wardrobe components and consider how they could co-ordinate to create countless different options, enabling you to look wonderful every day and get the most mileage out of your clothing investments. The following sections show possibilities for the four different body types discussed in the previous chapter. For your shape, there will be 10 basic pieces that will flatter your figure and mix and match with ease. These 10 basics can create at least 15 outfits, enough for you to look different every day for 3 weeks. Select a colour combination from your palette in Chapter 4 then see what items you already have in your existing wardrobe that can fit into the scheme. For items you are missing, draw up a Shopping Priority List and start saving for these key invest- ments.
讓我們考慮一下衣櫃的各種組成部分，考慮一下它們如何協調以創造出無數不同的選擇，使您每天看起來都很棒，並從您的服裝投資中獲得最大的收益。以下部分展示了上一章中討論的四種不同身體類型的可能性。針對您的體形，我們將提供 10 件基本款單品，幫助您凸顯身材並輕鬆混搭。這 10 件基本款可以打造至少 15 套服裝，足以讓你在 3 週內每天看起來都不一樣。從第 4 章的調色盤中選擇一種顏色組合，然後查看現有衣櫃中已有哪些物品可以適合該方案。對於您缺少的物品，請制定優先購物清單並開始為這些關鍵投資存錢。

How they work together
他們如何合作

THE ANGULAR WOMAN'S WORKING WARDROBE
棱角分明的女性工作衣櫥

(The colour scheme shown here would suit a woman who has Warm Autumn colouring.) 1. A double-breasted jacket with matching trousers (number 5) 2. Blouse 3. A single- breasted jacket worn with matching skirt (number 4) 4. Pleated skirt (short) 5. Trousers 6. Fine-ribbed polo 7. A short jacket 8. A slim skirt (long with vent or kick-pleat) 9. Dress 10. Patterned T-shirt
（此處所示的配色方案適合暖秋色彩的女性。）1. 雙排扣夾克搭配配套褲子（編號 5） 2. 襯衫 3. 單排扣夾克搭配配套裙子（編號 4） 4 . 百褶裙（短） 5. 長褲6. 細羅紋Polo 衫7. 短夾克8. 修身半身裙（帶開衩或踢褶的長裙） 9. 連身裙10. 圖案T 卹

3+ 4, add a necklace or scarf for interest; 3 + 5 + 6, add a brooch; 1 + 2 + 4; 1 + 5 + 10; 1 + 6 + 8; 3 + 4 + 10; 6 + 7 + 8; 1 + 5+ 6; 7 + 9; 9, add a scarf; 7 + 2 + 5; 6 + 4 +7; 3 + 8; + 9; 7 + 2 + 5.
3+4，加一條項鍊或圍巾增添趣味； 3+5+6，加胸針； 1+2+4； 1 + 5 + 10； 1+6+8； 3+4+10； 6+7+8； 1+5+6； 7+9； 9、加一條圍巾； 7+2+5； 6+4+7； 3+8； + 9； 7 + 2 + 5。

THE CURVY WOMAN'S WORKING WARDROBE
曲線優美女性的工作衣櫥

(The colour scheme shown here would look wonderful on a woman who is Soft in colouring.) 1. Soft jacket worn with matching skirt (number 8) 2. Blouse 3. Jacket 4. Soft-fitted, short skirt 5. Fluid trousers 6. Jersey top 7. Fitted jacket 8. Long, gored skirt 9. Softly-fitted dress 10. Silk T-shirt
（此處所示的配色方案對於色彩柔和的女性來說會看起來很棒。）1. 柔軟的夾克搭配配套的裙子（8 號） 2. 襯衫3. 夾克4. 柔軟的短裙 5. 流暢的褲子 6 . 針織上衣 7. 合身夾克 8. 長裙 9. 柔軟合身洋裝 10. 絲綢 T 卹

How they work together
他們如何合作

3+ 4+ 10; 2+ 7 + 5; 1 + 2 + 8; 3 + 8 + 10; lace); 7+2+8; 7 + 9; 6 + 1 + 5; 7 + 8 +10; 1 + 2 + 5; 7 + 10 + 4; 3 + 6 + 5 (add a neck- 7+ 10 + 5; 6 + 1 + 8; 3 + 9; 3 + 2 + 5.
3+ 4+ 10； 2+7+5； 1+2+8； 3+8+10；蕾絲）; 7+2+8； 7+9； 6+1+5； 7+8+10； 1+2+5； 7+10+4； 3 + 6 + 5（加上脖子 - 7+ 10 + 5；6 + 1 + 8；3 + 9；3 + 2 + 5。

THE SOFTENED STRAIGHT WOMAN'S WORKING WARDROBE
柔美直女的工作衣櫥

(The colour scheme shown here would complement a woman with Deep or clear colouring.)
（此處顯示的配色方案可以與深色或透明色的女性相得益彰。）

1. Soft jacket worn with matching skirt (number 8) 2. Blouse 3. Collarless jacket 4. Pleated skirt 5. Trousers 6. Body suit 7. Double-breasted jacket 8. Long skirt 9. Dress 10. Jersey top
1. 軟夾克搭配配套裙子（8 號） 2. 襯衫 3. 無領夾克 4. 百褶裙 5. 長褲 6. 緊身衣 7. 雙排扣夾克 8. 長裙 9. 連身裙 10. 針織衣

How they work together
他們如何合作

3+6+4; 1 + 2 + 5; 7 + 10 + 4; 1 + 2 + 4; 3 + 9 (add a necklace); 1+6 +5%; 7 + 10 + 8; 2 + 3 + 8; 3 + 6 +5; 7 + 9; 9 + 1; 2 + 5 + 1; 8 + 2 + 3; 1 + 6 + 8; 7 + 6 + 5.
3+6+4； 1+2+5； 7+10+4； 1+2+4； 3+9（加項鍊）； 1+6+5%； 7+10+8； 2+3+8； 3+6+5； 7+9； 9+1； 2+5+1； 8+2+3； 1+6+8； 7 + 6 + 5。

THE FULL-FIGURED WOMAN'S WORKING WARDROBE
豐滿女性的工作衣櫥

(The colour scheme of this wardrobe would be perfect for a woman who has Cool colouring1. Long, collarless jacket 2. Soft, cross-over blouse 3. Long, pleated skirt (elasticated waist) 4. Mid-calf culottes 5. Cardigan jacket 6. Long fluid trousers 7. Long-sleeve T-shirt (silk) 8. Elasticated straight skirt (just below knee) 9. Patterned, long, silk blouse 10. Swing dress
（這個衣櫃的配色方案非常適合冷色女性1.無領長夾克2.柔軟交叉襯衫3.長百褶裙（鬆緊腰）4.小腿中部裙褲5.開襟夾克6. 寬鬆長褲7. 長袖T 卹（絲綢） 8. 彈性直筒裙（膝蓋以下） 9. 圖案長絲襯衫10. 搖擺連身裙

How they work together
他們如何合作

1+ 2+ 3; 1 + 9 + 4; 5 + 2 + 8; 1 + 7 + 6; 10 + 5; 9 + 4; 1 + 7 + 9 + 6; 9+8; 5+ 9 + 3; 5 + 9 + 4; 1+2 +8; 4 1+2+6. + 17; 10+ 1; 6 + 9 + 5;
1+2+3； 1+9+4； 5+2+8； 1 + 7 + 6； 10+5； 9+4； 1+7+9+6； 9+8； 5+9+3； 5+9+4； 1+2+8； 4 1+2+6。 + 17； 10+1； 6+9+5；

PRESENTING YOURSELF
展現自己

VERSATILE INVESTMENTS
多元化投資

Few of us can afford to clear out our existing wardrobe, so let's think about what you already have in your collection, and see if you have suits and outfits that are fulfilling all your needs.
我們很少有人有能力清理現有的衣櫃，所以讓我們考慮一下您的收藏中已有的東西，看看您是否有滿足您所有需求的西裝和服裝。

THE STRONG NEUTRAL SUIT
強力中性套裝

Every woman needs a suit that sets the stage for her to be taken seriously. There will be occasions when you feel underconfident, or need to project your professionalism to an audience who may not yet value your contribution. And there will be times when you need to let folks know who's in-charge, that is, YOU!!
每個女人都需要一套能讓她受到認真對待的西裝。有時您會感到不自信，或者需要向可能還不重視您的貢獻的觀眾展示您的專業。有時你需要讓人知道誰是負責人，那就是你！

Hence, this suit is all about gravitas. Choose the most sober, deep neutral that you can wear without looking too boring, severe or washed- out. Charcoal, navy, olive, a rich burgundy, plum or mahogany are all good possibilities.
因此，這套西裝完全是莊嚴的。選擇最樸素、深沉的中性色，這樣你就不會顯得太無聊、嚴肅或褪色。木炭色、海軍藍、橄欖色、濃鬱的勃根地、李子色或桃花心木色都是不錯的選擇。

This suit will look strongest, yet conservative, if worn as a matching set. When you want to soften the look, try contrasting, toning or patterned skirts.
如果作為配套穿著，這套西裝會顯得最堅固，但又保守。如果您想讓外觀變得柔和，可以嘗試對比色、色調或圖案的裙子。

To play safest and to project the most authority, team it with a blouse in your white (soft, pure or ivory). However, a pastel blouse with just a hint of colour will be more feminine and probably more flattering. On occasions when you don't need to be at the helm, you can brighten-up the look with more colourful blouses and prints.
為了最安全並表現出最大的權威，請搭配白色（柔軟、純色或像牙）的襯衫。然而，一件帶有淡淡色彩的柔和襯衫會更女性化，也可能更討人喜歡。當你不需要掌舵時，你可以用色彩更豐富的襯衫和印花來提亮造型。

Choose a jacket design that will accommodate many different necklines. One without lapels would set off blouses with high collars, and could either have a simple jewel or V-neckline – also allowing you to tuck pretty printed scarves inside for variety.
選擇適合多種不同領口的外套設計。無翻領的襯衫可以襯托高領襯衫，可以搭配簡單的珠寶或 V 領，也可以在裡面塞上漂亮的印花圍巾，以增添多樣性。

This power suit will look most strong if teamed with a confident brooch and smart earrings.
如果搭配自信的胸針和漂亮的耳環，這款動力套裝將看起來最強大。

THE LIGHT NEUTRAL SUIT
淺色中性西裝

For spring and summer wear, you will need suits that are as versatile as your navy, olive, burgundy and charcoal ones but lighter, and more welcoming while still looking professional. Increasingly now, we are offered wonderful multi-purpose colours, such as ivory, stone, taupe, pewter, camel and cocoa brown.
對於春季和夏季的著裝，您需要的西裝與海軍藍、橄欖色、酒紅色和炭灰色的西裝一樣百搭，但更輕、更受歡迎，同時看起來很專業。現在，我們越來越多地獲得美妙的多用途顏色，如像牙色、石色、灰褐色、白鑞色、駝色和可可棕色。

Any woman, regardless of her colouring, can wear stone or taupe provided that she balances it with a terrific colour from her palette. For example, Deep and Clear women might wear taupe with black, red,
任何女性，無論膚色如何，都可以穿石色或灰褐色，只要她能用調色板中的絕妙顏色來平衡它。例如，深邃和清澈的女性可能會穿灰褐色搭配黑色、紅色、

A WARDROBE THAT WORKS
實用的衣櫃

purple or royal blue. Light and Cool women might try rose pink, soft fuchsia or lavender. Warm and Soft women can wear rust, moss green or turquoise with stone.
紫色或寶藍色。淺色和酷色的女性可以嘗試玫瑰粉紅色、柔和的紫紅色或薰衣草色。溫暖柔和的女性可以穿鐵鏽色、苔綠色或綠松石色加石色。

The lighter the suit, the better the quality required. You can cheat with navies, blacks and greys but rarely with a light colour. Be honest about the likelihood of being able to keep the suit clean. If you commute to work on public transport, ivory probably is a silly choice no matter how terrific it looks on you.
西裝越輕，要求的品質就越好。你可以用海軍藍、黑色和灰色來作弊，但很少用淺色。誠實地說明能夠保持西裝清潔的可能性。如果您乘坐公共交通工具上班，那麼無論象牙穿在您身上看起來多麼漂亮，它都可能是一個愚蠢的選擇。

Thinking of ivory, there is a huge difference between ivory and white. The former is elegant and the latter rarely so, even if you work in a warm, sunny climate. An ivory jacket is particularly useful, as it will go with everything plains as well as many weaves. -
想到像牙，象牙色和白色之間存在巨大差異。前者很優雅，而後者很少如此，即使你在溫暖、陽光明媚的氣候下工作。象牙色夾克特別有用，因為它可以搭配任何平紋和多種編織的衣服。 -

THE COLOURED SUIT
彩色套裝

In the last decade, certain colours have become so widespread for business women's wear that they are accepted as neutral options. A red suit should feature in every working woman's wardrobe (or, at least, a red jacket to team with your skirts). Red tells colleagues, managers and customers alike that you know who you are, and are prepared to stand your ground. Wear red to the next large meeting or conference you attend and see how more people come up to you and introduce themselves. In grey, you can attend functions and blend into the woodwork if that is what you wish. In red, people think you must have something to say - so be prepared to speak your piece!
在過去的十年中，某些顏色在商務女裝中變得如此普遍，以至於它們被認為是中性的選擇。每個職業女性的衣櫃裡都應該有一件紅色西裝（或至少一件與裙子搭配的紅色夾克）。雷德告訴同事、經理和客戶，您知道自己是誰，並準備好堅持自己的立場。在您參加的下一次大型會議或大會上穿紅色衣服，看看有多少人來找您介紹自己。如果你願意的話，穿著灰色，你可以參加活動並融入木製品中。穿紅色衣服時，人們認為您一定有話要說 - 所以準備好說出您的想法！

Another great new neutral is purple, which comes in deep rich shades as well as softer, violet versions. Choose one that is neither too delicate (such as pale lavender) nor too electric (usually with really garish buttons). Again, any woman can wear purple. If you are a Deep and Clear woman, offset it with red, black or mango. If Light, Soft and Cool go monochromatic, teaming it with softer lilac or rose. If you have Warm colouring, try mustard or gold with purple - it'll be a knockout on you.
另一種出色的新中性色是紫色，它有濃鬱的深色調以及更柔和的紫羅蘭版本。選擇一種既不太精緻（例如淡紫色）又不太電動（通常帶有非常花哨的按鈕）的顏色。再說一次，任何女人都可以穿紫色。如果你是深邃而清澈的女性，可以用紅色、黑色或芒果色來抵銷。如果淺色、柔和色和冷色是單色，可以搭配柔和的紫丁香色或玫瑰色。如果你的膚色是暖色，可以嘗試芥末色或金色搭配紫色——這會讓你大吃一驚。

The red or purple jacket of your suit will work with many other basic colours, both light and dark, in your wardrobe. And both are wonderful with black or grey trousers, which the most confident women already know.
西裝的紅色或紫色夾克可與衣櫃中的許多其他基本顏色（淺色和深色）搭配。兩者都非常適合搭配黑色或灰色褲子，這是最有自信的女性都知道的。

THE TROUSER/CULOTTE SUIT
長褲/裙褲套裝

The time has come for all women who know trousers or culottes are flattering on them (and want to wear them), to brave the workplace in these comfortable alternatives to the skirted suit.
對於所有知道褲子或裙褲很適合自己（並且想穿它們）的女性來說，現在是時候勇敢地穿上這些舒適的裙裝替代品去上班了。

PRESENTING YOURSELF
展現自己

As with a light coloured suit, you can't cheat on quality when buying trousers or culottes, so don't gamble away your chances of carrying off this sometimes risky look with any old pair of trousers teamed with any old jacket.
與淺色西裝一樣，購買褲子或裙褲時，您不能在品質上作弊，因此，不要冒險用任何舊褲子搭配任何舊夾克來搭配這種有時有風險的外觀。

below Day: Start the day with basics which only require minor adjustments to work in the evening
以下的一天：從基礎開始新的一天，只需要稍作調整即可在晚上工作

For guidance on selecting the best trouser and culotte styles, see Chapter 7.
選擇最佳褲子和裙褲款式的指南，請參閱第 7 章。

THE DAY-TO-EVENING ENSEMBLE
晝夜合奏團

centre Evening: For a working dinner, a change of top, from a woollen to lace body suit, is simple and effective. Coloured stone, diamanté or dangling earrings will help you sparkle outside the office. Remember to enhance your make-up with deeper or brighter colours for evening
中心晚上：參加工作晚宴時，將上衣從羊毛套裝換成蕾絲連體套裝，既簡單又有效。彩色寶石、鑽石或懸垂耳環將幫助您在辦公室外閃閃發光。晚上記得用更深或更亮的顏色來增強你的妝容

There will be occasions when your working day does not end when the office closes but continues over dinner with colleagues or clients. Unlike men, few women socialise on business for the fun of it and aim to achieve positive results. After all, men can look totally acceptable in the same, smart, neutral suit they've worn all day, but we women have to make more effort if we're to avoid what CMB consultants call the 'left-over office' look... the basic suit, cotton blouse, evaporated make-up, daytime accessories, etc.
有時，您的工作日並沒有在辦公室關閉時結束，而是在與同事或客戶共進晚餐時繼續。與男性不同，很少有女性出於樂趣而參與商務社交活動，並希望取得正面成果。畢竟，男人穿著一整天都穿著的同樣、時尚、中性的西裝看起來完全可以接受，但我們女性如果想避免 CMB 顧問所說的“辦公室遺留”外觀，就必須付出更多努力。基本套裝、棉質襯衫、淡妝、日間配件等。

right An evening with friends: Discard the jacket and skirt and add a fun waistcoat and trousers to put you in style for a night on the town
與朋友共度夜晚：丟掉夾克和裙子，添加有趣的背心和褲子，讓您在鎮上度過一個時尚之夜

If an evening event is planned, dress in the morning in something that is 'transformable' at 5 p.m. Bring along one of those wonderful, uncrush- able georgette pleated skirts in a long length to make your day-time suit jacket look completely different. Wear a blouse with a slight sheen, that will pick up the light.
如果打算參加晚上的活動，那麼早上 5 點就穿一些「可變形」的衣服。穿一件有輕微光澤的襯衫，這樣可以吸收光線。

Change your basic leather belt for one with beading, fake jewels or a gold trim. Add extra gold and/or pearl ropes. Replace your button ear-
將基本款皮帶換成串珠、假珠寶或金色飾邊的皮帶。添加額外的金繩和/或珍珠繩。更換您的紐扣耳-

A WARDROBE THAT WORKS
實用的衣櫃

rings with a pair that dangle. Touch up your make-up - completely, not just some powder and lipstick. Finally, add a nice scent - it will make you feel special and put you in the right mood for a social, albeit still business, evening.
戒指上有一對懸垂的戒指。徹底補妝，而不僅僅是一些粉餅和口紅。最後，添加一種美妙的香味 - 它會讓您感覺很特別，並讓您在社交晚會（儘管仍然是商務晚會）中保持良好的心情。

DRESS ALTERNATIVES
服裝選擇

If you haven't discovered the ease and comfort of wearing simple dresses in lieu of skirts and blouses under jackets or on their own, then now is the time to do so. For women of every shape and size there are terrific options in basic plain colours as well as patterns.
如果您還沒有發現穿著簡單的連身裙代替裙子和襯衫在夾克下面或單獨穿著的輕鬆和舒適，那麼現在是時候這樣做了。對於各種體型和體型的女性來說，基本的純色和圖案都有不錯的選擇。

Dresses are for days you don't need to look 'in-charge'. They are terrific for staff meetings, for working with colleagues, and for brainstorming sessions.
洋裝適合那些你不需要看起來「負責」的日子。它們非常適合員工會議、與同事合作以及腦力激盪會議。

The simpler the design of the dress, the more you can change its look by adding a belt or scarf, wearing a brooch or chains, co-ordinating with different jacket lengths and styles.
連身裙的設計越簡單，就越能改變它的外觀，可以添加腰帶或圍巾，佩戴胸針或鏈條，搭配不同的夾克長度和款式。

Choose the fabric carefully. Many are too flimsy and clingy for the office (especially some knits, jerseys and silks). To look smart and appropriate at work, it is best if the dress is completely lined. For advice on getting a nice fit, see Chapter 7.
仔細選擇布料。許多衣服都太脆弱、太黏人，不適合辦公室穿著（尤其是一些針織品、運動衫和絲綢）。為了在工作上顯得聰明、得體，裙子最好是全襯裡的。有關如何獲得合適的建議，請參閱第 7 章。

OVERCOATS AND RAINCOATS
大衣和雨衣

Your investment in a coat will be a major one which can put other purchases on hold for many months, so you must think and plan what you need and want before you even enter a store to buy one.
你對一件外套的投資將是一項重大投資，可能會導致其他購買擱置數月，所以在你進入商店購買一件外套之前，你必須思考和計劃你需要和想要什麼。

When skirt hemlines start fluctuating you can have real problems selecting a coat that will work with everything . . . but it must. So decide what hemline is best for you and get a coat that accommodates that particular length. Nothing looks more shabby than a coat that is too short for a skirt or dress, although a long coat over a shorter skirt is quite acceptable.
當裙子裙擺開始波動時，您可能會在選擇適合所有場合的外套時遇到真正的問題。。。但這必須。因此，請確定最適合您的裙擺，並購買適合該特定長度的外套。沒有什麼比外套對於裙子或洋裝來說太短更破舊的了，儘管長外套搭配較短的裙子是完全可以接受的。

Once the coat length is settled, consider the desired weight. If you travel by public transport you need more warmth - such as a wool or wool and cashmere blend will provide - than if you travel by car. If you are a walker you will need a coat that is lightweight but still warm and capable of protecting you from the unpredicted shower. Some micro- fibres will suit your needs best.
確定外套長度後，請考慮所需的重量。如果您乘坐公共交通工具旅行，您需要比駕車旅行更多的保暖性，例如羊毛或羊毛羊絨混紡面料即可提供。如果您喜歡步行，您需要一件輕便但保暖且能夠保護您免受意外陣雨侵襲的外套。有些微纖維最能滿足您的需求。

When it comes to colour, splash out! You don't need to stick to a safe neutral such as black, tan or navy. Cheer yourself and everyone you meet with a lovely shade that will brighten up the dull mid-winter landscape,
說到顏色，就潑出去吧！您無需堅持使用安全的中性色，例如黑色、棕褐色或海軍藍。用可愛的色調為自己和遇到的每個人加油，這將照亮沉悶的仲冬風景，

PRESENTING YOURSELF
展現自己

but be smart and opt for mid to deep shades rather than light ones that require regular cleaning.
但要聰明一點，選擇中深色調，而不是需要定期清潔的淺色。

A macintosh or raincoat might be a more versatile investment than a woollen coat, particularly if you live in an inclement climate. Today you can find dashing yet totally serviceable, wet-proof designs to see you through the worst weather.
麥金塔或雨衣可能是比羊毛大衣更通用的投資，特別是如果您生活在惡劣的氣候中。今天，您可以找到時尚但完全可用的防潮設計，幫助您度過最惡劣的天氣。

Always try coats on when you are wearing a suit jacket underneath and still allow room for layering if necessary. For example, if you decide to invest in one terrific raincoat it should be roomy enough also to accommodate an extra sweater, even under your suit jacket, if needed in mid-winter to keep you warm.
當您裡面穿著西裝外套時，請務必試穿外套，並在必要時留出分層空間。例如，如果您決定購買一件很棒的雨衣，那麼它應該足夠寬敞，可以容納一件額外的毛衣，甚至在您的西裝外套下面，如果仲冬需要保暖的話。

Over the years develop a coat wardrobe of varying lengths, weights and colours, to see you through rain and shine in style. Check your coats regularly to see that they look their best. Replace lost buttons, be sure the hem is even and repair any fraying, even inside. . . this can occur, for example, at the armpits, which take great strain if the coat is a bit snug. If you have a
多年來，我們開發了不同長度、重量和顏色的外套衣櫃，讓您風雨無阻，風雨無阻。定期檢查你的外套，看看它們是否處於最佳狀態。更換遺失的連結，確保下擺平整併修復任何磨損，甚至內部磨損。。。例如，這種情況可能發生在腋窩處，如果被毛有點緊的話，腋窩會承受很大的壓力。如果你有一個

coat that is still wearable but you find it boring, consider the following ideas for giving it, and you, a new look.
如果外套仍然可以穿，但你覺得它很無聊，請考慮以下想法，讓它和你煥然一新。

◆ Change the buttons for bright new ones of good quality gilt, bone, or a contrasting colour
◆ 將連結換成優質鍍金、骨質或對比色的明亮新扣

◆ Add a colourful shawl or scarf from your collection, to make it look different every day
◆ 從您的收藏中添加一條彩色披肩或圍巾，讓它每天看起來都不一樣

If it is a belted style, use a leather belt rather than the one that came with the coat
如果是繫帶款式，請使用皮帶，而不是外套附帶的皮帶

♦ Wear a large, attractive brooch
❖ 配戴一枚大而有吸引力的胸針

Draw attention from the coat by wearing with it a terrific fedora, beret or floppy felt hat
搭配一頂漂亮的軟呢帽、貝雷帽或軟氈帽，可以吸引人們對外套的注意力

SUMMER MADNESS
夏日瘋狂

Something strange happens as soon as the sun begins to shine, signalling the beginning of summer. Sane women can lose their professional sensibilities and reveal a different image from the one they have projected for the major part of the year. This transformation is often most pronounced in northern climates with brief summers. In others, with reasonably moderate to warm weather for many months or all year round, this delirium doesn't seem to set in in the way it does in countries like Britain, Germany and Scandinavia.
當太陽開始照耀時，就會發生一些奇怪的事情，這標誌著夏天的開始。理智的女性可能會失去她們的職業敏感性，並展現出與她們一年中大部分時間所設想的不同的形象。這種轉變通常在夏季短暫的北方氣候中最為明顯。在其他國家，由於持續數月或全年天氣相當溫和至溫暖，這種瘋狂似乎並不像英國、德國和斯堪的納維亞半島等國家那樣出現。

A WARDROBE THAT WORKS
實用的衣櫃

left Dressed to kill your career prospects: Floral sun-dresses, white shoes and bare legs scream 'unprofessional, whatever the weather
著裝毀了你的職業前景：碎花太陽裙、白鞋和裸露的雙腿尖叫著“無論天氣如何，都不專業”

right Keeping cool and keeping the profes- sional edge: Short-sleeve cotton jackets teamed with light-weight skirts, in business colours, present the right image in summer
right 保持涼爽又保持職業鋒芒：短袖棉外套搭配輕薄半身裙，商務色，呈現夏季正確形象

A warm day seems to signal a licence to strip off the essential layers of a woman's 'business armour'. Off come the tights, on go sandals, open- toed shoes or, even worse, white shoes! These first signs of 'summer madness' are followed by bare arms, low cut blouses and sundresses under jackets which are discarded at some point during the day, leaving the owners looking not only unprofessional but vulnerable. The smart tailored looks worn religiously throughout the rest of the year are shelved in preference for crease-prone linen, see-through blouses, rising hemlines, shorts, tank-tops, T-shirts. The damage many women do to their image in just these two or three short months every summer damages their prospects throughout the remainder of the year.
溫暖的一天似乎標誌著脫掉女性「商業盔甲」的基本層的許可。脫掉緊身衣、輕便涼鞋、露趾鞋，或者更糟的是，白鞋！在這些「夏季瘋狂」的最初跡象之後，裸露的手臂、低胸襯衫和夾克內的背心裙在白天的某個時候被丟棄，讓業主看起來不僅不專業，而且很脆弱。一年中剩下的時間人們虔誠地穿著的精巧剪裁服裝被擱置起來，人們更喜歡易皺亞麻、透明襯衫、升高裙擺、短褲、背心、T卹。許多女性在每年夏天的短短兩三個月內對自己的形象造成的損害，也會損害她們在這一年剩餘時間的前景。

Male colleagues don't know what to say, how to react or where to look when this summer madness starts. My business booms every summer; I receive dozens of calls from personnel officers asking if a consultant could please come in to discuss image with the women, and would we please tell them not to wear sundresses and sandals to the office. These calls come from the large multi-nationals as well as the small companies.
當這個夏天的瘋狂開始時，男同事們不知道該說什麼，如何反應，也不知道該看哪裡。每年夏天我的生意都紅紅；我接到人事官員打來的幾十通電話，詢問是否可以請顧問進來與女性討論形象問題，並請我們告訴她們不要穿背心裙和涼鞋去辦公室。這些電話來自大型跨國公司和小公司。

My advice is that as soon as it gets hot, try to stay cool, in every sense of the word. Do not read the women's magazines for advice on what fun you can have, in looking great yet keeping cool. The girls who are doling it out work in a highly creative, informal environment where they have
我的建議是，一旦天氣變熱，就盡量保持冷靜。不要閱讀女性雜誌來尋求關於如何讓自己看起來漂亮又保持冷靜的樂趣的建議。從事這項工作的女孩們在一個高度創意、非正式的環境中工作，她們在那裡

75 15

PRESENTING YOURSELF
展現自己

the freedom to wear halter tops, denim mini-skirts and Lycra dresses to the office. But you work in the real world, where you need to take your image seriously all year round. Because if you don't, why should anyone else?
可以自由地穿著掛脖上衣、牛仔迷你裙和萊卡連身裙去辦公室。但你在現實世界中工作，全年都需要認真對待自己的形象。因為如果你不這麼做，別人為什麼要這樣做呢？

If you live in a climate that is sunny and warm for a good portion of the year, no doubt your business world hardly notices any transition in image. Your clothes are doubtless lighter both in fabric and colour, but your offices are air-conditioned, which makes the wearing of hosiery expected and comfortable. However, in countries with very brief periods of warm weather, many offices do not have air-conditioning and can become quite unbearably hot. This is what leads to such bizarre dress. But the men don't react to the discomfort by dressing in shorts and T- shirts. So why do women?
如果您生活在一年中大部分時間陽光明媚、溫暖的氣候中，毫無疑問，您的商業世界幾乎不會注意到任何形象轉變。毫無疑問，您的衣服在面料和顏色上都更輕，但您的辦公室裝有空調，這使得襪子的穿著符合預期且舒適。然而，在溫暖天氣非常短暫的國家，許多辦公室沒有空調，可能會變得非常熱。這就是導致如此奇怪的服裝的原因。但男人們並沒有透過穿短褲和 T 卹來應對這種不適。那為什麼女性會這樣呢？

BEST BETS FOR KEEPING AND LOOKING COOL
保持冷靜和看起來酷的最佳選擇

In the summertime, remember that you need to maintain the same professional standards that you displayed during the rest of the year. This can easily be achieved if you buy the same garments but in light fabrics. I know this may sound all too obvious, but it bears repeating as many women really do think that the summertime grants them liberties to wear garments designed as leisure-wear.
在夏季，請記住您需要保持與今年剩餘時間相同的專業標準。如果您購買相同的輕質布料服裝，則可以輕鬆實現這一點。我知道這聽起來可能太明顯了，但值得重複的是，因為許多女性確實認為夏季賦予她們穿著休閒服裝的自由。

A lightweight suit, a dress and jacket, or a blouse, jacket and matching or co-ordinating skirt or trousers are more appropriate. Dresses that are 'substantial' in their own right, that is, a coat dress, shirtwaister or chemise in a medium weight, not a clingy or sheer, fabric are acceptable on their own when you are working at your desk. But remember, for any meeting, you need to attend wearing a jacket and discard this only when your superiors do so, or you are invited to do so if you wish.
輕便的西裝、連身裙和夾克，或襯衫、夾克和配套或協調的裙子或褲子更合適。當您在辦公桌前工作時，本身「堅固」的連身裙，即中等重量的大衣連身裙、襯衣連身裙或襯衣，而不是緊貼或透明的面料，本身就可以接受。但請記住，對於任何會議，您都需要穿著夾克參加，並且只有當您的上級這樣做時才可以丟棄夾克，或者如果您願意的話，您會被邀請這樣做。

Choose fabrics with very high percentage of natural fibres, but containing a minimal blend of a man-made material such as micro-fibres, rayon, polyester or nylon which helps prevent wrinkling and are machine- or hand-washable. Blouses and dresses in natural fabrics such as cotton, linen, silk and cool wool can usually be worn only once in warm weather. Check also to see whether the care label stresses dry-cleaning only because this is not only expensive but impractical for women who travel extensively.
選擇天然纖維含量非常高的布料，但含有最少的微纖維、人造絲、聚酯纖維或尼龍等人造材料混合物，有助於防止起皺，並且可以機洗或手洗。由棉、亞麻、絲綢和涼爽羊毛等天然面料製成的襯衫和連身裙通常只能在溫暖的天氣穿一次。也要檢查護理標籤是否強調乾洗，因為乾洗不僅價格昂貴，而且對於經常旅行的女性來說不切實際。

Wear low-denier hosiery at all times on business. Number 5, 7, or 10 denier are very comfortable in tights, even more so in stockings or holdups which allow more ventilation. There is a very wide range of soft neutral shades available now, and it is an easy matter to find appropriate ones to tone in with your outfit - taupe, pale beige, soft ivory,
出差時始終穿著低旦襪。 5、7 或 10 丹尼爾穿緊身衣非常舒適，穿長襪或提襪更舒適，因為這樣可以更好地通風。現在有多種柔和的中性色調可供選擇，很容易找到適合您服裝的色調 - 灰褐色、淺米色、柔和的象牙色、

A WARDROBE THAT WORKS
實用的衣櫃

slate-grey, and so on.
石板灰色等。

Select blouses with, at minimum, a short or capped sleeve; never wear sleeveless ones in the office unless you keep your jacket on all day. No matter how trim and well-toned your arms may be, bare armpits do little to project professionalism. Again, the men don't get away with it, so why should you?
選擇至少有短袖或蓋袖的襯衫；永遠不要在辦公室穿無袖衣服，除非你整天都穿著夾克。無論你的手臂多麼纖細、健美，裸露的腋窩都無法展現出專業。再說一次，男人們都無法逃過懲罰，那你為什麼要這麼做呢？

In shoes and accessories, choose comparable styles and quality to those you wear during the rest of the year, but in lighter colours. Taupe, pewter and light grey are a welcome relief from the dark navy, black and brown worn so often in winter. Also, coloured shoes to tone with outfits are more acceptable in the summertime than in winter; for example, blue, red or purple. The only colour that 'shoots you in the foot' is white. At any price, by any designer, white shoes are tacky and incapable of projecting success.
在鞋子和配件方面，選擇與今年剩餘時間穿著的款式和品質相當的款式，但顏色要淺一些。灰褐色、白鑞色和淺灰色是冬季常用的深海軍藍、黑色和棕色的一種受歡迎的緩解方式。此外，與服裝相配的彩色鞋子在夏季比冬季更容易被接受。例如，藍色、紅色或紫色。唯一「搬起石頭砸你的腳」的顏色是白色。無論價格如何，對於任何設計師來說，白鞋都是俗氣的，無法展現成功的一面。

White shoes have no place in business. Never expose your tootsies, no matter how nice the pedicure. Sling backs are acceptable, open-toes are not
白鞋在商業上沒有地位。永遠不要暴露你的腳趾，無論修腳有多好。露趾鞋是可以的，露趾鞋是不行的

Ivory, taupe or stone-coloured shoes are fine for summertime. But with dark coloured skirts and dresses always wear a darker shoe. Light denier hosiery is a must no matter what the temperature
象牙色、灰褐色或石色的鞋子很適合夏天。但搭配深色裙子和洋裝時，請務必穿著深色鞋子。無論溫度如何，輕旦襪都是必備品

CHAPTER 7
第7章

Getting the Style and Fit Right
找到合適的款式和合身度

our working wardrobe needs to be planned for, and bought, in a completely different frame of mind from when you are buying weekend or party gear. What you consider to be a good style or fit when selecting leisure clothes is most likely to be completely wrong for the office.
我們的工作服裝需要以與購買週末或派對裝備時完全不同的心態來規劃和購買。在選擇休閒服裝時，您認為良好的款式或合身的款式很可能不適合辦公室。

We've already looked at style issues in Chapters 5 and 6, and there's more advice here, but first let me concentrate on fit, because it is crucial that you get it right. The fit of your clothes can make or break your overall business image. If they are too big or loose, you will look as if you either borrowed them or have lost weight (too much). If your clothes fit too snugly, your body becomes the focus of everyone's attention, either because you simply look overweight or, because your clothes are too figure-hugging, that is, provocative. You might attract the interest of male colleagues, but they won't be concentrating on your business acumen because you will be sending out mixed messages!
我們已經在第 5 章和第 6 章中討論了風格問題，這裡還有更多建議，但首先讓我集中討論合身性，因為正確選擇至關重要。衣服是否合身可以塑造或破壞您的整體商業形象。如果它們太大或太鬆，您會看起來像是藉來的或體重減輕了（太多）。如果你的衣服太合身，你的身體就會成為所有人關注的焦點，要么是因為你看起來超重，要么是因為你的衣服太貼身，也就是說，太挑釁。你可能會吸引男性同事的興趣，但他們不會注意你的商業頭腦，因為你會發出混亂的訊息！

So, fit is very important. Forget what size you are. Size is irrelevant and manufacturers are so inconsistent that you are smarter to shop thinking of getting the look right. Remember, people don't have x-ray vision and can't read the labels inside your clothes to see the size! If the very thought bothers you, you can always snip the size label out anyway, once the garment is yours.
所以說，適合是非常重要的。忘記你的尺寸。尺寸無關緊要，而且製造商也不一致，因此您在購物時會更明智地考慮購買合適的外觀。請記住，人們沒有 X 光視力，無法透過閱讀衣服內的標籤來了解尺寸！如果這個想法讓您煩惱，一旦衣服歸您所有，您可以隨時將尺寸標籤剪掉。

A fit that allows you to move easily, as well as add a few extra pounds during the month, is what you should aim for in all your wardrobe items. Slightly loose - not baggy - clothes are more elegant and slimming than tighter-fitting ones and significantly more comfortable for 10 to 12 hours of continuous wear.
合身的款式是您所有衣櫃單品的目標，既能讓您輕鬆活動，又能在本月增加體重。稍微寬鬆（而不是寬鬆）的衣服比緊身的衣服更優雅、更修身，並且連續穿著 10 到 12 小時會更加舒適。

Now let's look at individual garments and the style and fit points to bear in mind when you are buying them.
現在讓我們來看看單件服裝以及購買時要注意的款式和合身點。

GETTING THE STYLE AND FIT RIGHT
找到合適的款式和合身度

SKIRTS
裙子

Your objective will be to wear styles and sizes that are comfortable and require no fuss to keep in place. You know those straight skirts that look so great when you try them on but as soon as you sit down require constant tugging to keep them from riding up your thighs. A skirt can rise slightly, provided it didn't start out too short, when you sit but you shouldn't need to be consciously worrying about it all the time. If you are, it is probably too short or too tight.
您的目標是穿著舒適且無需大驚小怪的款式和尺寸。你知道那些直筒裙在你試穿時看起來非常漂亮，但一旦你坐下來，就需要不斷地拉扯，以防止它們爬到你的大腿上。當你坐下時，裙子可以稍微抬起，只要它開始時不太短，但你不需要一直有意識地擔心它。如果是的話，它可能太短或太緊。

Be honest about your side view in skirts. If your tummy and bottom are curvy, a skirt without darts is unforgiving and looks unattractive. You will look chubby even if you aren't. If you retain fluid during the month, try shopping then, to be sure that you get a fit that is bearable on those regular days when you need extra space.
誠實地對待你穿裙子的側面。如果你的腹部和臀部有曲線，沒有省道的裙子是不可原諒的，看起來沒有吸引力。即使你不是，你也會看起來很胖。如果您在這個月內有積液，請嘗試在這個月購物，以確保您在需要額外空間的正常日子中找到合適的衣服。

If you notice horizontal lines ('stretchmarks') across the front of your skirts then the fit is wrong. Waistbands that curl over when you are seated look terrible. Hide any you might have presently under a belt and next time you shop for a skirt choose a different waist, i.e. one with softer gathers and a better fit. If the problem is caused by the fact that you are short-waisted, look for a skirt without a waistband, or a very narrow one.
如果您發現裙子前面有水平線（「妊娠紋」），那麼合身性就不合適。當你坐下時腰帶捲曲看起來很糟糕。將您目前可能擁有的任何東西藏在腰帶下，下次購買裙子時選擇不同的腰部，即具有更柔軟褶皺和更合身的腰部。如果問題是由你的腰部短引起的，那就買一條沒有腰帶的裙子，或者很窄的裙子。

Length is a matter of taste, fashion and proportions. Fortunately, the fluctuations are less frequent in fashion today and women do have a choice so consider first and foremost what is flattering on you. If your legs aren't an asset, minimise attention there by wearing longer, easy hemlines toned-in with matching hosiery. If you are short but also have unattractive legs you know you need to show more leg just to look balanced. Try a hem just below the knee, where your leg naturally indents, and finish with deeper (but not opaque), toning hosiery. Tulip- or bell-
長度是品味、時尚和比例的問題。幸運的是，如今時尚界的波動已經不那麼頻繁了，女性確實有選擇，所以首先要考慮什麼適合你。如果您的雙腿不佔優勢，請穿著更長、寬鬆的裙擺並搭配配套的襪子，以盡量減少對雙腿的關注。如果您身材矮小，但腿又不美觀，您就知道需要露出更多的腿才能看起來平衡。試著將下擺設計在膝蓋下方，也就是腿部自然凹陷的位置，最後穿上更深（但不是不透明）的塑身襪。鬱金香或鈴鐺

left Skirts that strain are a pain... they look and feel awful
左拉緊的裙子很痛苦…它們看起來和感覺都很糟糕

centre Wearing tight skirts only asks for trouble in business
穿緊身裙只會給生意帶來麻煩

you do right Aim for elegance in the fit of your skirts You'll look slimmer and more professional if
你做對了追求優雅的裙子合身你會看起來更苗條，更專業，如果

PRESENTING YOURSELF
展現自己

shaped skirts are more flattering and slimming than straight, boxy styles. A-line skirts make all women look shorter and wider.
與直筒、四四方方的款式相比，塑形裙子更顯身材、更顯瘦。 A字裙讓所有女性看起來更矮更寬。

Taller women look great in longer lengths but need to be careful when it comes to volume. Wide, full skirts don't look professional no matter how flattering or fashionable. If you like them long be sure the balance is right; that is, that all the attention isn't drawn to below your waist.
個子較高的女性穿著較長的長度看起來很棒，但在體積方面需要小心。寬大的裙子無論多麼討人喜歡或時尚，看起來都不專業。如果您長期喜歡它們，請確保平衡正確；也就是說，所有的注意力都不會被吸引到腰部以下。

When considering a longer length skirt for work, always walk around the fashion floor of the store wearing it, to see what happens when you move and whether it will be manageable through your daily obstacle course. Some styles allow very little movement and you'll find yourself limited to taking 'baby steps' all day. Other longer styles can twist around or creep up your legs.
當考慮穿著更長的裙子去工作時，一定要穿著它在商店的時裝樓層走動，看看當你移動時會發生什麼，以及它是否可以通過你的日常障礙訓練。有些款式只允許很少的活動，您會發現自己整天只能「嬰兒學步」。其他較長的款式可能會扭曲或爬到您的腿上。

Very full, long skirts are too 'social' and relaxed for the office. It's near impossible to look commanding in a full, swirling skirt. If you love long, easy skirts for their comfort as well as their style, try ones cut on the bias, which will give you the movement without the volume.
非常豐滿的長裙對於辦公室來說太“社交”和放鬆。穿著一條飄逸的裙子看起來威嚴幾乎是不可能的。如果您喜歡寬鬆的長裙，既舒適又時尚，可以嘗試斜裁的裙子，這樣可以讓您動感十足，但又不顯得臃腫。

JACKETS
夾克

The easiest way to wreck your look is to wear cheap and/or ill-fitted jackets.
破壞外觀的最簡單方法就是穿著廉價和/或不合身的夾克。

When shopping, wear a blouse that you would be likely to wear under the jacket. If this isn't practicable, select an appropriate blouse in the shop before trying on the suit. Starting at the shoulders, ask yourself if the outline or silhouette is complimentary? Droopy, shapeless shoulders don't project much strength and can look too relaxed for business. If you love the jacket aside from the shoulders, ask yourself if a pair of shoulder-
購物時，穿一件您可能會穿在夾克下面的襯衫。如果這不可行，請在試穿西裝之前在商店選擇一件合適的襯衫。從肩膀開始，問問自己輪廓或輪廓是否互補？下垂、不成形的肩膀無法展現太多的力量，對於商務來說看起來太放鬆。如果你除了肩膀之外還喜歡這件夾克，問問自己是否有一雙肩部-

Left Don't box your feminine style into stiff, ill-fitting jackets
左不要將女性風格限制在僵硬、不合身的夾克中

right Easy, looser- fitting jackets are more flattering on many women. When but- toned, they should fit loosely and drape over your body
簡單、寬鬆的夾克更適合許多女性。扣上紐扣後，它們應寬鬆地貼合併披在您的身上

80 80

GETTING THE STYLE AND FIT RIGHT
找到合適的款式和合身度

pads would be all that's required to rescue the look. Better still, take a pair of removable pads with you, so you can quickly pop them in and see if they do the trick.
護墊就足以挽救外觀。更好的是，隨身攜帶一對可拆卸的護墊，這樣您就可以快速將它們放入，看看它們是否有效。

The best shoulders should look natural, never severe. Excessively- padded models, thankfully, are a thing of the past. If you like shoulder- pads to help balance your hips (they almost always make you less hippy) by all means try some modest ones. Another possibility, to create a better balance with a larger hip measurement, would be to try the jacket in a size larger, but this won't look right if the jacket is tailored. It only works with less structured styles.
最好的肩膀應該看起來自然，絕對不是嚴肅的。值得慶幸的是，過度填充的模型已經成為過去。如果您喜歡墊肩來幫助平衡臀部（它們幾乎總是讓您不那麼嬉皮），請務必嘗試一些樸素的墊肩。另一種可能性是，為了與較大的臀圍尺寸取得更好的平衡，可以嘗試穿大一號的夾克，但如果夾克是訂製的，這看起來就不合適。它僅適用於結構較少的樣式。

For any presentation, you need to speak with the jacket buttoned, so be sure the lapels, buttons and any vents aren't straining; it needs to look smooth and comfortable when buttoned-up.
對於任何演示，您都需要在夾克紐扣扣好的情況下講話，因此請確保翻領、紐扣和任何通風口不會拉緊；扣上釦子時，它需要看起來光滑舒適。

Often I see women in wonderful jackets but looking overwhelmed' because the sleeves are too long, or looking gawky because the sleeves are too short. As someone who always has to have sleeves shortened by several inches, I know that even a half-inch wrong either way can mar your image. If you have long arms, never buy a jacket without first checking to see that there is ample fabric to bring the sleeves down. For the short-limbed, always get the sleeves altered (before you ever wear it). And unless you are a very skilled dressmaker/tailoress, this is one of those
我經常看到女性穿著漂亮的夾克，但因為袖子太長而顯得不知所措，或者因為袖子太短而顯得笨拙。作為一個總是必須把袖子縮短幾英寸的人，我知道即使是半英寸的錯誤也會損害你的形象。如果你的手臂很長，購買夾克時一定要先檢查是否有足夠的布料來拉低袖子。對於四肢較短的人，請務必先更換袖子（在穿著之前）。除非您是一位非常熟練的裁縫/裁縫，否則這就是其中之一

Sleeves that are too long make you look dwarfed by your jacket
袖子太長會讓你在夾克的襯托下顯得矮小

Sleeves that are too short never look elegant, however costly the jacket
無論夾克多麼昂貴，袖子太短永遠不會顯得優雅

The correct sleeve length ends just at the break of the wrist
正確的袖長正好在手腕斷裂處結束

alterations best done by the shop or store where you make the purchase - particularly if the sleeves are fully lined. Or, invest in some expandable arm bands (sold in men's departments) which you wear above the elbow and cover with the excessive inches from the sleeves,
修改最好由您購買的商店或商店完成 - 特別是如果袖子是全襯裡的。或者，購買一些可擴展的臂帶（在男士部門出售），將其佩戴在肘部上方並用距離袖子過多的英寸覆蓋，

The correct length of the jacket will depend on your proportions. Those with balanced bodies have the choice of any length (lucky women). See
夾克的正確長度取決於您的比例。身體平衡的人可以選擇任何長度（幸運的女性）。看

PRESENTING YOURSELF
展現自己

illustrations on page 64 for more ideas about what might suit you best. If you are long in the body, only wear long jackets with a short skirt. Otherwise, your most attractive cut will be short, that is, never below your hip bone. For short-waisted women, your jackets are best in longer lengths.
第 64 頁的插圖，以了解有關最適合您的內容的更多想法。如果您身材較長，則只穿長夾克搭配短裙。否則，你最有吸引力的切口將是短的，也就是說，永遠不會低於你的髖骨。對於短腰女性來說，夾克最好是較長的。

Your bustline is an important factor when you're choosing a good- fitting jacket. If you have a full bust, the fabric should be easy, not stiff, and should fall smoothly over the bust, without sticking out or seeming to stretch. If you have an average bust, be sure not to minimise what you have in too loose-fitting jackets. Small-busted women benefit from a looser fit, and extra details such as pockets and exaggerated lapels to add bulk where it is needed.
當您選擇合身的夾克時，您的胸圍是一個重要因素。如果您有豐滿的胸圍，那麼布料應該寬鬆，不僵硬，並且應該平滑地落在胸圍上，不會伸出或看起來有拉伸。如果您的胸圍中等，請務必不要穿太寬鬆的夾克。小胸的女性受益於寬鬆的版型和額外的細節，如口袋和誇張的翻領，以在需要的地方增加體積。

BLOUSES
襯衫

Today you have endless possibilities for blouses to wear under your suits, but I urge you to think 'simple and elegant'. By all means have fun with colour and fabric, but keep the neckline and details unfussy. Remember, you want to be able to wear it with several of the jackets in your wardrobe. Too often, elaborate designs are best worn alone, not under a jacket at all, and most are not suitable for business-wear. If in doubt when shopping for blouses, return to the shop wearing one of your suits and try the blouse on again, to see if it works.
今天，你有無限的可能性將襯衫穿在西裝裡面，但我敦促你思考「簡單而優雅」。無論如何，要享受色彩和布料的樂趣，但要保持領口和細節不那麼繁瑣。請記住，您希望能夠將它與衣櫃中的幾件夾克搭配。很多時候，精緻的設計最好是單獨穿著，而不是穿在夾克裡，而且大多數都不適合商務裝。如果在購買襯衫時有疑問，請穿著您的一套西裝返回商店，然後再次試穿襯衫，看看是否有效。

When it comes to fabric, never wear ones that are too sheer or too snug; for example, Lycra bodysuits. I own several of these but only wear them on days I am committed to never taking my jacket off (since I am freezing most of the time, this is easily done).
在布料方面，切勿穿著太透明或太貼身的衣服；例如，萊卡緊身衣。我擁有其中幾件，但只在我承諾永遠不脫掉夾克的日子裡才穿它們（因為我大部分時間都很冷，所以這很容易做到）。

left Never buy or wear a blouse that's straining across the bust
切勿購買或穿著胸部過緊的襯衫

right A loose fit in your blouses is both slimming and elegant
right 寬鬆的襯衫既顯瘦又優雅

GETTING THE STYLE AND FIT RIGHT
找到合適的款式和合身度

Also, watch the neckline. A much repeated CMB caveat to working women is: 'the more you show the less authority you have.' This goes for both necklines and hemlines.
另外，還要注意領口。 CMB 對職業女性反覆提出的警告是：“你表現得越多，你擁有的權威就越少。”這適用於領口和裙子。

TROUSERS
褲子

I hear you thinking, 'I could never get away with trousers where I work'. Indeed, many companies actively discourage or specifically prohibit women from wearing trousers. Men, too often the bosses, have a problem with women in trousers; they simply don't know how to deal with them. But it's only a matter of time before trousers for women are considered more widely acceptable. Scandinavian and German women have a good laugh at such concerns, as trousers are widely worn by working women in these countries.
我聽到你在想，『我在工作的地方永遠無法穿著褲子』。事實上，許多公司積極勸阻或明確禁止女性穿褲子。男人，通常是老闆，對穿褲子的女人有意見。他們根本不知道如何對付他們。但女褲被更廣泛地接受只是時間問題。斯堪的納維亞和德國的女性對這種擔憂一笑置之，因為這些國家的職業婦女普遍穿著褲子。

Unfortunately, women sometimes take liberties in a relaxed business environment by wearing any old trousers with a blouse or sweater. Whenever company managers seek advice from CMB on this vexed problem, rather than talk the women out of wearing trousers I try to convince companies that trouser suits should be allowed and the women be given guidance on how to wear them.
不幸的是，女性有時會在輕鬆的商業環境中隨意穿舊褲子搭配襯衫或毛衣。每當公司經理就這個棘手的問題向 CMB 尋求建議時，我都會嘗試說服公司應該允許穿褲裝，並指導女性如何穿著，而不是說服女性不要穿褲裝。

To even consider trousers for work, you need to be very honest about how you look in them from the front, side and rear. If you aren't an absolute winner from all three vantage points, don't wear them to work. If you are, and like the ease of a trouser suit, by all means consider one if you think you can get away with it.
即使考慮穿工作褲，您也需要非常誠實地了解您穿著它的正面、側面和背面的樣子。如果從所有三個角度來看，您都不是絕對的贏家，那麼就不要穿著它們去上班。如果您是這樣，並且喜歡褲裝的輕鬆感，那麼如果您認為自己可以擺脫困境，請務必考慮一件。

Trousers that are too tight are unprofessional... no matter how trim your figure. Check the fit of yours from front, side and rear
太緊的褲子是不專業的……無論你的身材多麼苗條。從前面、側面和後面檢查您的貼合度

83 32

PRESENTING YOURSELF
展現自己

left From the front you want the trousers to drape, so styles with darts or inverted pleats are best
左從正面看，您希望褲子具有垂墜感，因此帶有省道或倒褶的款式是最好的

right You should be able to get your hands in the pockets without straining the seams
正確您應該能夠將手放入口袋而不拉傷接縫

The most effective suits are those in elegant neutral colours (that is, not yellow, pink or patterned) in good quality fabric. The more substantial the fabric - in weight and texture - the better.
最有效的西裝是那些採用優質面料、優雅的中性色（即不是黃色、粉紅色或圖案）的西裝。織物的重量和質地越堅固越好。

Accessorise a trouser suit as thoughtfully as you do your skirted- suits, that is, always with a belt, and appropriate shoes. A smart shoe-boot or flats will look more relaxed, while a raised heel makes a trouser suit more dressy. Don't forget your earrings, a necklace or brooch, which give the professional stamp to any trouser suit.
像搭配裙子套裝一樣精心搭配褲裝套裝，即始終搭配腰帶和合適的鞋子。漂亮的靴子或平底鞋會顯得更休閒，而高跟鞋會讓褲裝更考究。不要忘記您的耳環、項鍊或胸針，它們可以為任何褲裝打上專業的印記。

NICE KNITS
漂亮的針織品

Knits can feature in every working woman's wardrobe. They are easy to wear, comfortable and don't crease, and are favoured by many women who travel
針織衫是每個職業女性衣櫃裡的必備單品。穿著方便、舒適、不起皺，受到許多旅行女性的青睞

Take care that your knits don't reveal too much (far left). Because they cling they can expose your curves more than other fabrics. Styles which are too tight or too short, as here, only beg harassment.
注意你的針織衫不要露出太多（最左邊）。由於它們具有粘性，因此比其他面料更能暴露您的曲線。像這裡這樣太緊或太短的款式只會招致騷擾。

Layer your knits to create ensembles that are comfortable as well as attractive (left). Keep the fit neat but easy, without exposing your curves too obviously.
將針織衫疊起來，打造出既舒適又有吸引力的套裝（左）。保持剪裁簡潔而輕鬆，不會太明顯地暴露您的曲線。

GETTING THE STYLE AND FIT RIGHT
找到合適的款式和合身度

CULOTTES AND SHORTS
裙褲和短褲

In the last few years City Shorts have been proffered by the fashion pundits as a nice alternative for working women in the summertime. The only problem with these ‘suits' is that unless the jacket is quite long and kept on all day, the look is too casual for work. Few women look elegant in shorts, regardless of their figures, and even in the most expensive silk or linen. When shorts wrinkle, as they invariably do, it is not a pretty sight. So, don't be swayed by summer fashion features in the magazines touting these as an option. They aren't. The only exception would be if you work in a very relaxed office environment and/or live in a warm climate.
在過去的幾年裡，城市短褲被時尚專家推薦為職業女性夏季的好選擇。這些「西裝」的唯一問題是，除非夾克很長並且整天穿著，否則看起來對於工作來說太休閒了。很少有女性穿著短褲顯得優雅，無論她們的身材如何，即使穿著最昂貴的絲綢或亞麻布也是如此。當短褲起皺時，就像它們總是那樣，那可不是一個漂亮的景象。因此，不要被雜誌上宣傳這些作為一種選擇的夏季時尚專題所左右。他們不是。唯一的例外是，如果您在非常輕鬆的辦公環境中工作和/或生活在溫暖的氣候中。

Culottes are another item men have definite opinions about; generally never very positive. Often, the stores offer stunning culottes in plain or patterned fabric teamed with smart jackets, so they are effectively a suit. The key is not to have too much volume in the culottes and for the fabric to be very good quality. Cheap culottes don't fool anyone that they are anything but cheap, whereas you may get away with an inexpensive skirt worn under a jacket.
裙褲是另一種男士有明確看法的單品。通常從來都不是很積極。通常，商店會提供令人驚嘆的素色或圖案面料的裙褲，搭配時尚的夾克，因此它們實際上是一套西裝。關鍵在於裙褲的體積不要太大，而且布料的品質要非常好。廉價的裙褲不會欺騙任何人，因為它們一點也不便宜，而你可能會在夾克下面穿一條便宜的裙子。

Larger women, particularly those with heavy thighs, find culottes more flattering and comfortable than trousers and skirts. If considering this look, ask yourself: 'Can I smarten it up with accessories to look strong enough to give a presentation to a small group?" If the 'culotte look' is only good enough for behind the desk, it will be of limited use and not good enough to present the consistently successful image that you want and need.
身材較大的女性，尤其是大腿粗的女性，會發現裙褲比褲子和裙子更討人喜歡、更舒適。如果考慮這種造型，問問自己：「我可以用配件讓它看起來足夠強大，可以向一小群人進行演示嗎？」如果「裙褲造型」只適合在辦公桌後面使用，那麼它的作用就會有限。

DRESSES
洋裝

In the last few years, dresses have become the welcome alternative to the skirt and blouse under a jacket. Simple shifts in beautiful colours and fabrics under an unconstructed cardigan-style jacket are both easy to wear and comfortable. Against such a simple backdrop, you can add a striking necklace or a mixture of pearls and gold chains with earrings and look terrific. The 'Dress-Suit' also takes your business day wear into the evening most successfully.
在過去的幾年裡，裙子已經成為夾克下面裙子和襯衫的受歡迎的替代品。簡單的轉變，美麗的色彩和布料搭配無結構的開襟衫式夾克，既易於穿著又舒適。在這樣簡單的背景下，你可以添加一條引人注目的項鍊或珍珠和金鍊的混合物與耳環，看起來棒極了。「正裝套裝」也能最成功地將您的工作日著裝帶到晚上。

Like all other items in your wardrobe, the fit of your dresses is very important. A dress only looks elegant and businesslike if it is slightly loose, not figure-hugging. This is why you should choose fabrics of substance, such as wool, wool and cotton blends, linen, tightly-woven knits, challis, etc. for dresses you want to be able to wear without a jacket.
與衣櫃中的所有其他物品一樣，洋裝的合身性非常重要。連身裙只有稍微寬鬆而不是緊身時才會顯得優雅和商務。這就是為什麼您應該選擇實質布料，例如羊毛、羊毛和棉混紡、亞麻、緊密編織的針織品、夏利斯等，來製作您想要不穿夾克時穿著的連身裙。

PRESENTING YOURSELF
展現自己

left A simple dress in a striking colour, with short or long sleeves, is one of your most versatile wardrobe components. Always wear with a jacket for meetings and presentations
左顏色醒目的簡約連身裙，有短袖或長袖，是您衣櫃中最百搭的單品之一。參加會議和演示時務必搭配夾克

right Discard your workday jacket and transform the simple shift dress for evening with a stunning scarf and accessories
丟掉你的工作日夾克，用漂亮的圍巾和配件將簡單的直筒連身裙改造成晚裝

The best style for a dress you intend to wear without a jacket is the coatdress, which is tailored to look finished all on its own. A simple chemise can also be worn alone if well accessorised, and looks even more complete with a shawl (which acts like a jacket).
對於不穿夾克的連身裙來說，最好的款式是大衣連身裙，它經過量身定制，看起來完全獨立。如果配件得當，簡單的襯衫也可以單獨穿著，搭配披肩（就像夾克一樣）看起來更完整。

With lighterweight dresses of silk, viscose, rayon or jersey, always wear a jacket; otherwise, there is simply too little fabric between you and your body not to be distracting when you are working with men. A cardigan, as opposed to a knit jacket, with a dress is not smart enough for busi- ness wear.
搭配絲綢、黏膠纖維、人造絲或針織布料的輕質洋裝時，請務必搭配夾克；否則，當你和男人一起工作時，你和你的身體之間的布料太少了，以至於不會分散你的注意力。與針織夾克相比，開襟衫搭配洋裝不夠時髦，不適合商務穿著。

UNDIES
內衣

Today's undergarments provide wonderful, supportive foundations to help any figure. From control-top tights to lightweight and comfortable 'girdles', there is no reason why any woman not in prime condition can't look wonderful in her clothes. But if your bra doesn't fit or your panties are too small, however trim you are, and however expensive your clothes, you will look awful!
如今的內衣為任何體形提供了美妙的支撐性基礎。從緊身上衣緊身褲到輕盈舒適的“腰帶”，任何狀態不佳的女性都可以穿著漂亮的衣服。但如果你的胸罩不合身，或者你的內褲太小，無論你多麼苗條，無論你的衣服多麼昂貴，你都會看起來很糟糕！

Have you been properly measured for your bra? Quite often, when a woman is properly measured for a bra, she discovers she has been wearing the wrong size. The difference in fit and comfort in wearing the correct size is amazing, so, if you haven't been measured recently, why not go along to the lingerie department of a good store and see if you are wearing the right bra.
你的胸罩尺寸正確了嗎？很多時候，當女性正確測量胸罩尺寸後，她會發現自己穿的尺寸不對。穿著正確尺寸所帶來的合身性和舒適度的差異是驚人的，所以，如果您最近沒有測量過尺寸，為什麼不去一家好的商店的內衣部門看看您是否穿著合適的胸罩。

Panties that seduce, generally create the worst 'pantylines' under skirts and trousers. You know, those sexy, silky numbers that defy gravity. For every day, you want panties that are comfortable around the leg and
誘惑的內褲通常會在裙子和褲子下產生最糟糕的“內褲線條”。你知道，那些性感、柔滑、不受重力影響的數字。每一天，您都想要腿部舒適的內褲

GETTING THE STYLE AND FIT RIGHT
找到合適的款式和合身度

Be sure your undies don't let you down. Never leave home in any doubt about what you are exposing from behind
確保您的內衣不會讓您失望。離開家時永遠不要對你從後面暴露的東西有任何疑問

waist, and cover your entire bottom. The smoother the fit the better. So
腰部，並覆蓋整個臀部。越光滑貼合越好。所以

when buying yours be sure to allow for possible shrinkage in the dryer. Also, take a good look at your rear view in a triple mirror and if your buttocks are less firm than they once were, do invest in a 'girdle', at least until you can get back into shape with some spot exercises. Nothing is more unprofessional and self-destructive in the workplace than a pair of jiggling buttocks under a skirt.
購買時，請務必考慮到烘乾機中可能會出現的收縮情況。另外，用三面鏡仔細看看你的後視鏡，如果你的臀部不像以前那麼堅挺，一定要買一條“腰帶”，至少在你可以通過一些局部鍛煉恢復體形之前。在工作場所，沒有什麼比裙子下晃動的臀部更不專業和自我毀滅的了。

Finally, if your skirts and dresses are not lined it is advisable to wear an underslip to help retain their shape and prevent the skirts clinging to your legs and riding-up when you walk. If you wear varying length skirts get one slip to serve the short hemlines and another for the longer lengths.
最後，如果您的裙子和連身裙沒有襯裡，建議穿著下襯裙，以幫助保持其形狀並防止裙子粘在您的腿上並在您走路時向上翹起。如果您穿著不同長度的裙子，請選擇一件襯裙用於短裙擺，另一件用於較長裙擺。

CHAPTER 8
第 8 章

Power Polish
強力拋光

E very little detail counts when you're assembling a power outfit, but many women practise false economy by not investing in quality accessories in keeping with their suits. Remember, a cheap or worn pair of shoes immediately devalues any outfit. Similarly, any old pair of earrings, such as the ubiquitous pearl studs that many women wear with everything, minimises the impact of a stylish new suit.
當你組裝一套強力服裝時，細節很少很重要，但許多女性不投資與她們的西裝相配的優質配飾，從而實行錯誤的節約。請記住，一雙便宜或破舊的鞋子會立即使任何服裝貶值。同樣，任何一對舊耳環，例如許多女性隨身佩戴的無處不在的珍珠耳釘，都會最大限度地減少時尚新套裝的影響。

I'm the first to appreciate that for working women, time is a precious commodity and shopping can be wearisome, but if you allot the time needed to buy a new suit, isn't it worth also spending a little more on whatever is required to complete the look? When you buy a new suit, of course you should consider what you already have that will go with it. But don't rely on the safe, nondescript shoes from last winter being right for this suit this winter. Every major outfit should be thought through.
我第一個意識到，對於職業女性來說，時間是寶貴的商品，購物可能會令人厭煩，但如果你花時間去買一套新衣服，那是不是也值得在需要的東西上多花一點錢呢？當你購買一套新西裝時，當然應該考慮一下你已有的衣服可以搭配什麼。但不要指望去年冬天安全、不起眼的鞋子適合今年冬天的這套衣服。每件主要服裝都應該經過深思熟慮。

THE RIGHT ACCESSORIES
合適的配件

Let's think of a new suit you've just bought. It's a great colour and style and feels terrific. First, ask yourself: what blouses do you have to wear with it? What colours, plain and patterned, from your existing wardrobe work best? When you get home, have a dress rehearsal. In fact, never wear a new outfit to your place of work without this preliminary trial. Try them on together to be sure the necklines and fabrics blend. If in any doubt, don't team them. If none of your blouses do the suit justice, then decide on two or three new ones that you might need to vary its look.
讓我們想想你剛買的一套新西裝。它的顏色和款式都很棒，感覺棒極了。首先，問問自己：你必須搭配什麼襯衫？您現有衣櫃中的哪種顏色（素色和圖案）效果最好？回到家後，進行一次彩排。事實上，未經初步試用，切勿穿新衣服去工作場所。一起試穿，確保領口和布料融為一體。如果有任何疑問，請勿將它們組隊。如果你的襯衫都不適合西裝，那麼就選擇兩三件新的襯衫來改變它的外觀。

What about scarves? Does the collar of the jacket lend itself to adding a scarf (best if collarless, without lapels)? Now the belt: when you take
圍巾呢？夾克的領子是否適合添加圍巾（最好是無領、無翻領）？現在皮帶：當你拿的時候

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POWER POLISH
強力拋光

off your jacket you need a belt to finish the waistline of your skirt, even if it doesn't have belt loops. You know how incomplete a man looks in trousers that are beltless; so, too, does a woman whether wearing trousers or a skirt. Do you have a good quality leather belt, in an appropriate colour and width for the suit? A belt should look part of the suit, not stand out as an ill-judged afterthought.
脫掉夾克後，您需要一條腰帶來修飾裙子的腰線，即使它沒有腰帶環。你知道一個男人穿無腰帶的褲子看起來是多麼不完整。女人也是如此，無論是穿褲子還是裙子。您是否有一條顏色和寬度適合西裝的優質皮帶？腰帶應該看起來是西裝的一部分，而不是作為一個錯誤判斷的事後想法而脫穎而出。

What colour tights, what denier looks most elegant with the new suit? Any old pair from your existing collection could ruin the impact. Try different shades and textures, both matt and with a slight sheen. How do they look together? Try on the best options. If none look right, invest in new ones that do.
什麼顏色的褲襪、什麼纖度的褲襪與新套裝搭配起來最優雅？您現有收藏中的任何舊鞋都可能會破壞其效果。嘗試不同的色調和紋理，包括啞光和微光。他們在一起看起來怎麼樣？嘗試最好的選擇。如果沒有一個看起來合適，就投資新的合適的。

And your shoes: is the colour right? What about the heel - is it smart, comfortable and appropriate? Is the quality comparable to that of the suit? If in doubt, always wear better.
還有你的鞋子：顏色對嗎？鞋跟怎麼樣－是否聰明、舒適、合適？品質能和套裝媲美嗎？如果有疑問，請始終穿得更好。

Your jewellery - the earrings - should you add a brooch or a choker? These accessories can make the suit look even more expensive and they don't have to be real gold! Go through this process for every outfit you wear to work, throughout the year. No, it is not laborious. Once you have two or three good pairs of shoes that are current and appropriate you can wear them with everything. The same applies to your collection of belts, earrings, brooches and scarves.
您的珠寶 - 耳環 - 您應該添加胸針還是項圈？這些配件可以讓西裝看起來更昂貴，而且它們不一定是真金的！全年你穿的每件上班穿搭都要經歷這個過程。不，這並不費力。一旦您擁有兩三雙流行且合適的好鞋，您就可以將它們與任何東西搭配。這同樣適用於您的皮帶、耳環、胸針和圍巾收藏。

Here are further guidelines for selecting the right accessories to ensure your outfits all look wonderful and to help you make the best use of the gems in your existing wardrobe and eliminate past mistakes.
以下是選擇正確配件的進一步指南，以確保您的服裝看起來都很漂亮，並幫助您充分利用現有衣櫃中的寶石並消除過去的錯誤。

JEWELLERY
首飾

In business, it is best to wear only gold, silver or pearls, or combinations of these; they are the most 'serious' and professional. Diamanté and coloured stones look inappropriate during the day (even though in fashion from time to time). Wood, acrylic, rope, ribbon, rubber and so on, have no place in business (unless you are in the fashion trade).
在商務場合，最好只配戴金、銀或珍珠，或這些的組合；他們是最「嚴肅」、最專業的。鑽石和有色寶石在白天看起來不合適（儘管時不時地流行）。木材、丙烯酸樹脂、繩索、絲帶、橡膠等在商業中沒有地位（除非您從事時尚行業）。

CMB advise women with very warm colouring - golden blonde, red, strawberry or auburn hair, and possibly freckles - to wear only gold jewellery. Women with a decidedly cool look, particularly if they have grey hair, look much more attractive and harmonious in silver jewellery. Other women can wear both gold and silver, wearing them independently or in combination for variety.
CMB 建議膚色非常溫暖的女性（金黃色、紅色、草莓色或赤褐色頭髮，可能還有雀斑）只戴金飾。看起來非常酷的女性，尤其是頭髮花白的女性，佩戴銀飾看起來更迷人和諧。其他女性可以同時佩戴金色和銀色，單獨佩戴或組合佩戴以獲得多樣性。

Some women complain that they can only wear real gold (14c, 18c or 22c) or sterling silver, because costume jewellery brings them out in rashes. Indeed, if you can afford the real thing, wear it. For those on more
有些女性抱怨她們只能戴真金（14c、18c 或 22c）或純銀，因為人造珠寶會讓她們出現皮疹。事實上，如果你買得起真品，就穿它。對於那些更多

PRESENTING YOURSELF
展現自己

limited budgets but also for those who like the variety and currentness of today's wonderful costume jewellery you can do a few things to help yourself become more tolerant.
預算有限，但對於那些喜歡當今精美人造珠寶的多樣性和流行性的人來說，您可以做一些事情來幫助自己變得更加寬容。

Some women can't tolerate metal against their skin because they have a very acidic system which creates a chemical reaction against anything but pure gold or silver. If this is your problem, you can help to balance your system by avoiding very acidic foods like citrus fruit, tomatoes, wine (especially red), and eating more alkaline foods. My Ayurvedic doctor recommends eating three to four meals weekly of pears (just pears) which are highly alkaline to help balance the high acidity in your system. It works for me and has also done wonders for hundreds of my clients who love costume jewellery. Give it a try. But if it does work for you, don't be carried away by your enthusiasm. Keep the 'fun' pieces of jewellery for leisurewear.
有些女性無法忍受金屬接觸她們的皮膚，因為她們的酸性系統非常酸性，除了純金或銀之外，會與任何物質發生化學反應。如果這是您的問題，您可以透過避免食用柑橘類水果、番茄、葡萄酒（尤其是紅酒）等酸性食物以及多吃鹼性食物來幫助平衡您的系統。我的阿育吠陀醫生建議每週吃三到四餐梨（僅梨），梨子具有高鹼性，有助於平衡系統中的高酸度。它對我很有效，也為我數百名熱愛人造珠寶的客戶創造了奇蹟。嘗試一下。但如果它確實對你有用，請不要被你的熱情沖昏了頭。將「有趣」的珠寶保留在休閒裝中。

Earrings
耳環

Another CMB adage for you: 'Earrings are equivalent in importance for a woman as a tie is for a man.' Wear them every day, for every business occasion, not just the social ones.
CMB 的另一個格言是：“耳環對女人的重要性就像領帶對男人的重要性一樣。”每天穿著它們，參加每個商務場合，而不僅僅是社交場合。

What to select depends on your personality, your face shape, bone structure, colouring, and the look you want to achieve/project. Never copy the style choices of a friend or colleague, however good they may look. They might look terrible on you! Always be sure you feel comfortable with the style and that it is right for you.
選擇什麼取決於您的個性、臉型、骨骼結構、膚色以及您想要實現/設計的外觀。永遠不要模仿朋友或同事的風格選擇，無論他們看起來多好。他們可能看起來很糟糕！始終確保您對這種風格感到滿意並且它適合您。

Next, be sure the shape is complimentary to your face. If you have a very narrow jaw line, a fuller, rounder earring is good. Broad or square- jawed women look best in flatter and longer earrings. The earrings can be bold but should not overpower your face. You want your eyes to be the centre of communication, not your earlobes. If you are petite, with a small frame, delicate designs are more in balance, while bigger-boned, larger women need more significant sizes and shapes.
接下來，確保形狀與您的臉型互補。如果您的下巴線條非常窄，那麼更飽滿、更圓潤的耳環是不錯的選擇。寬下巴或方下巴的女性最適合配戴扁平且較長的耳環。耳環可以很大膽，但不應該掩蓋你的臉。您希望您的眼睛成為溝通的中心，而不是耳垂。如果您身材嬌小，骨架較小，精緻的設計會更平衡，而骨架較大的女性則需要更顯眼的尺寸和形狀。

Necklaces
項鍊

A choker, necklace or string of pearls can complete a neckline more effectively than a fussy scarf or collar. The right style mainly depends on the length and thickness of your neck, and your bone structure.
頸鍊、項鍊或珍珠串比繁瑣的圍巾或衣領更能有效修飾領口。正確的款式主要取決於頸部的長度和厚度以及骨骼結構。

Women with average to long necks can look wonderful in chunky chokers, and these are especially effective on a collarless jacket. If you have a short neck, this style is best avoided because it will accentuate the shortness and you will look cluttered, and possibly uncomfortable. Choose instead long, single or multi-strands of gold chains or pearls, which will create a vertical illusion and make your neck look longer.
脖子中等或較長的女性佩戴粗頸鍊會顯得很漂亮，尤其是搭配無領夾克時效果更佳。如果你的脖子很短，最好避免這種款式，因為它會凸顯脖子的短小，讓你看起來很凌亂，甚至可能不舒服。選擇長的、單鍊或多鏈的金鍊或珍珠，這會產生垂直的錯覺，讓你的脖子看起來更長。

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POWER POLISH
強力拋光

Tall and large women look best in long ropes and can add or subtract in number within the limits of their personalities and the acceptability of such jewellery by their industry. Smaller-boned and petite women are advised to wear opera length (about 4 or 5 inches down from the collarbone); longer chains often overwhelm them. A simple long strand of pearls or a single long chain and pendant are other options for them.
高大的女性佩戴長繩顯得最好看，並且可以在她們的個性和行業對此類珠寶的可接受性的範圍內增加或減少數量。骨骼較小、身材嬌小的女性建議穿著歌劇長度（距離鎖骨約4或5吋）；較長的鏈條常常會讓他們不知所措。簡單的長串珍珠或單條長鍊和吊墜是他們的其他選擇。

A thick neck will look more slender if you wear long chains and strands, which give an elongating illusion. Thin necks, conversely, are better in shorter necklaces (including chokers that aren't too chunky), because these give volume where it is needed.
粗脖子如果戴上長鍊子會顯得更修長，給人一種拉長的錯覺。相反，細脖子更適合較短的項鍊（包括不太粗的頸鍊），因為它們可以在需要的地方提供體積。

Brooches and pins
胸針和別針

Brooches and pins are accessories to express your personality and position, so by all means be individual, just make sure the quality is up to par with the rest of your image and that the item is neither too pretty, nor too bold. If in doubt, opt for simplicity, and wear an interesting abstract shape, a stick pin or a gold and pearl brooch.
胸針和別針是表達你的個性和立場的配飾，所以一定要個性化，只要確保品質符合你形象的其他部分，並且該物品既不太漂亮，也不太大膽。如有疑問，請選擇簡單的款式，並佩戴有趣的抽象形狀、別針或金珍珠胸針。

Avoid always wearing matching earrings and brooches which project a women who is not self-confident enough to put things together herself. If you love the earrings and the brooch offered in a set, by all means buy them, but wear the pieces separately from time to time.
避免總是戴著相配的耳環和胸針，這會讓女性顯得不夠自信，無法自己把東西組合在一起。如果您喜歡成套的耳環和胸針，請務必購買它們，但有時分開佩戴。

Bracelets
手鍊

Keep them to a minimum. Women who have tried striking cuffs and bangles on their writing wrist know what a bother bracelets can be. If they make a noise or thump when you write, they are a distraction. If you like to wear something more than your watch try a single or a few simple ones together with your watch for interest. Be careful that the metal or design doesn't scratch the glass facing of your watch.
將它們保持在最低限度。嘗試過在書寫手腕上戴上手鐲和手鐲的女性都知道手鐲是多麼麻煩。如果它們在你寫作時發出噪音或重擊聲，就會分散你的注意力。如果您除了手錶之外還喜歡佩戴其他東西，請嘗試單件或幾件簡單的衣服與手錶搭配，以增添趣味。請注意金屬或設計不要刮傷手錶的玻璃表面。

WATCHES
手錶

The most significant investment, in terms of accessories, has to be your watch. Not only are women aware of each others' watches but so are men; perhaps, more so.
就配件而言，最重要的投資就是您的手錶。不僅女性會注意到彼此的手錶，男性也會如此。也許，更是如此。

Today, elegant, simple and reliable watches are offered at every price. There is no reason why yours shouldn't look smart and successful even on an entry level salary. Women who don't wear watches project to others that they don't have the foggiest notion what time management means and also are probably lowly 'internal' people who never get out and about in business. How could you ever be on time for anything outside the office without a watch!
如今，各種價位的手錶均優雅、簡約、可靠。即使拿著入門級的薪水，你也沒有理由不看起來聰明和成功。不戴手錶的女性向其他人表明，她們對時間管理的含義沒有最模糊的概念，而且可能是從不外出做生意的低等「內向」人。在辦公室之外，如果沒有手錶，你怎麼能準時去做任何事情！

PRESENTING YOURSELF
展現自己

Choose a watch that is in proportion to the size of your wrist. If your watch is too small, it will look insignificant and make you look pudgy. If too heavy and/or big, you will look as if you are being worn by your watch.
選擇一款與手腕尺寸相稱的手錶。如果你的手錶太小，它會顯得微不足道，讓你看起來很矮胖。如果太重和/或太大，您看起來就像戴著手錶一樣。

Keep the face simple but with markings that you can actually read. Digitalised models, efficient and high-tech though they might be, aren't as elegant or attractive as simple, more traditional designs. Avoid ones with timers, beepers, or multi-monitors.
保持表面簡單，但帶有您可以實際閱讀的標記。數位化模型雖然可能高效且高科技，但並不像簡單、更傳統的設計那樣優雅或有吸引力。避免使用有計時器、蜂鳴器或多顯示器的裝置。

The higher you fly in business the more important your watch becomes, so as soon as you can afford it, get a really good one that tells everyone you are successful. But don't go overboard on styling. Choose a slim- line, classic shape in a size appropriate to your size. Petite woman should not wear man-sized watches.
你的事業飛得越高，你的手錶就變得越重要，所以一旦你買得起，就買一隻真正好的手錶，告訴每個人你已經成功了。但造型上不要太過分。選擇適合您體型的纖巧、經典造型。身材嬌小的女性不宜配戴男士尺寸的手錶。

PENS
筆

A polished professional always uses a good pen, preferably a fountain pen, especially for ‘topping and tailing' letters. If you prefer to draft a report with a smooth or fast disposable ballpoint, use the biro in your own office but use a smart pen for meetings or whenever you are taking notes or signing papers in front of others.
一個優雅的專業人士總是使用一支好鋼筆，最好是鋼筆，特別是用於“頂部和尾部”字母。如果您喜歡使用流暢或快速的一次性原子筆起草報告，請在自己的辦公室使用原子筆，但在會議或在其他人面前做筆記或簽署文件時使用智慧筆。

You don't need a solid gold pen to look successful. Choose a colour, weight and design that co-ordinates with the rest of your look and is comfortable to handle.
您不需要一支純金筆就能看起來很成功。選擇與您的其他造型相協調且操作舒適的顏色、重量和設計。

BELTS
腰帶

Today we have an array of wonderful colours and textures to select from when buying belts and many look much more expensive than they actually are. Having determined the width that is comfortable on you and flatters your body type, look for the best neutral colour to work with most of your outfits. The safest choice is to match your shoes. So, if you have mainly black shoes, get a wonderful black leather belt (and a suede one for winter). Or look for a completely reversible belt that is a good neutral colour on each side, or even a neutral with a reverse side in a fashion colour that will work with an existing outfit.
如今，我們在購買腰帶時有一系列精美的顏色和紋理可供選擇，而且許多腰帶看起來比實際價格貴得多。在確定適合您且適合您體型的寬度後，請尋找最適合您的大部分服裝的中性顏色。最安全的選擇是與您的鞋子相匹配。所以，如果你的鞋子主要是黑色的，那就買一條漂亮的黑色皮帶（冬天還有一條絨面革腰帶）。或者尋找一條完全雙面的腰帶，每一面都是很好的中性顏色，甚至是中性的，反面是時尚顏色的，可以與現有的服裝搭配。

Don't stick to always matching your belts to your shoes. For example, if you are wearing a simple dress, set it off with a colour, red for example, that can co-ordinate with the colour of your shoes. Red would work well with navy, taupe or black shoes. If you have mainly warm tones in your shoes, such as brown tones, try an olive or rust belt with your dresses or skirts. Obviously, you will want to tie the colour of the belt in with some-
不要總是堅持將皮帶與鞋子搭配。例如，如果你穿著一件簡單的衣服，可以用與鞋子顏色相協調的顏色來襯托它，例如紅色。紅色很適合搭配海軍藍、灰褐色或黑色的鞋子。如果您的鞋子主要是暖色調，例如棕色色調，請嘗試在連身裙或裙子上搭配橄欖色或鐵鏽色腰帶。顯然，你會想將腰帶的顏色與某些東西結合在一起——

left Most skirts look 'unfinished' without a belt, even if they don't have belt loops
大多數沒有腰帶的裙子看起來都是“未完成的”，即使它們沒有腰帶環

right: Polish off your skirts and trousers with an attractive leather belt
右：用迷人的皮帶擦亮你的裙子和褲子

thing else, perhaps a fleck of a colour in the skirt or with the colour of your blouse or scarf.
其他的東西，也許是裙子上的一點顏色，或是襯衫或圍巾的顏色。

Only wear belts with distinctive buckles and similar features if you have a trim waist worth the attention. Otherwise, it is best to keep the belt simple, in a colour that blends with your skirt or dress.
如果您的腰部纖細值得關注，則僅佩戴具有獨特扣環和類似功能的腰帶。否則，最好保持腰帶簡單，顏色與你的裙子或連身裙融為一體。

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Self-belts ones of the same fabric as the dress, skirt or trousers - look less significant than a leather belt. They are rarely of decent quality or construction and often have cheap and shiny gilt buckles. Toss them out as soon as you get them home so you aren't even tempted to wear them.
與洋裝、裙子或褲子材質相同的同質腰帶 - 看起來不如皮帶重要。它們的品質或結構很少，而且通常有廉價而閃亮的鍍金扣環。一旦你把它們帶回家就扔掉，這樣你就不會想穿它們了。

HOSIERY
針織品

Are you a woman who wears one colour with most of your wardrobe? If so, you aren't looking as sophisticated as you could. In most cities and towns, in most countries, hosiery is available in a wide range of textures, colours and fits so that every woman should be able to find a good brand to complete her look for work.
你是衣櫃裡大部分衣服都只穿一種顏色的女人嗎？如果是這樣，你看起來就不夠成熟了。在大多數國家的大多數城鎮，襪子有多種質地、顏色和款式可供選擇，因此每個女性都應該能夠找到一個好的品牌來完成她的工作裝扮。

Some supermarket brands or ones purporting to fit any size can look horrible, making some legs look like artificial limbs, and they can be very uncomfortable. My clients moan that buying expensive hosiery is like pouring money down the drain because their tights often expire after one wearing (even upon opening the package!). But if you keep your nails and hands smooth, and are careful in laundering your hosiery there is no reason why tights should not last for many months. The key is to buy quality, to get the right fit and to select the right blend of fibres that are hardwearing (for example, with Lycra).
一些超市品牌或聲稱適合任何尺寸的產品可能看起來很糟糕，使一些腿看起來像義肢，而且會非常不舒服。我的客戶抱怨說，購買昂貴的襪子就像把錢倒入下水道，因為他們的緊身衣通常在穿一次後就過期了（甚至在打開包裝後！）。但如果你保持指甲和手光滑，並且小心地清洗你的襪子，那麼緊身衣就沒有理由不能穿好幾個月。關鍵是購買優質產品、獲得合適的合身性並選擇耐磨的正確纖維混合物（例如萊卡纖維）。

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Getting tights to last is one challenge; the other is getting them to look good. Here's where you need to know your deniers, that is, the appropriate weight for comfort and to compliment your look. Here's a guide to what to look for:
讓緊身褲經久耐用是一項挑戰。另一個是讓它們看起來不錯。您需要了解自己的缺點，即合適的重量以確保舒適並與您的外觀相得益彰。以下是尋找內容的指南：

◆5, 7, 10, 12 denier: Lightweight for summertime. Hot climates, hot offices
◆5、7、10、12丹尼爾：夏季輕薄。炎熱的氣候、炎熱的辦公室

15-30 denier: Medium weight, for air-cooled offices
15-30 丹尼爾：中等重量，適用於風冷辦公室

◆ 30-60 denier: For wintertime. There is nothing heavier in opaque than 60 denier.
◆ 30-60 丹尼爾：適合冬天。沒有什麼比 60 丹尼更重的不透明材料了。

In selecting colours don't aim to contrast with your outfit (for example, wearing white or coloured tights) but to tone in with your skirt, dress or trousers, and with your shoes. So, if you are wearing a navy skirt and navy shoes, beige legs would stand out and break up your look; the best choice would be a sheer navy or a blue-grey. If your skirts and shoes are warm-toned then natural coloured tights or beige are nice. Never try to create the impression of having a tan by wearing 'suntan' hosiery. It never works and cheapens any business look. Patterned hosiery, apart from designs so subtle as to be indistinguishable, has no place in business.
在選擇顏色時，不要旨在與您的服裝形成對比（例如，穿白色或彩色緊身衣），而是要與您的裙子、連身裙或褲子以及鞋子色調一致。所以，如果你穿著海軍藍裙子和海軍藍鞋子，米色的腿會很突出，破壞你的造型；最好的選擇是純粹的海軍藍或藍灰色。如果你的裙子和鞋子是暖色調，那麼自然色的褲襪或米色都不錯。切勿試圖穿著「曬黑」襪來營造曬黑的印象。它永遠不會起作用並且會降低任何商業外觀。有圖案的襪子，除了設計微妙到難以區分之外，在商業上沒有立足之地。

A final note on problem legs. For large, unshapely or marked legs (such as noticeable veins or scars) darker tones are best. For very slim legs, lighter colours create more 'weight' and 'shape'.
關於問題腿的最後說明。對於大的、不成形的或有標記的腿（例如明顯的靜脈或疤痕），深色是最好的。對於非常纖細的腿，較淺的顏色會創造更多的“重量”和“形狀”。

SHOES
鞋

Many working women have a ‘disposable shoe' mentality, that is, they buy one or two pairs of shoes, wear them to death for a few months then throw them away and buy replacements. Generally, they are inexpensive shoes which tend to look slightly beaten up by the third wearing, even if well-polished. They just don't hold their shape like a more expensive model, partly due to the fact that they are usually unlined - and often synthetic.
許多職業女性都有一種「一次性鞋」心態，就是買一兩雙鞋，穿幾個月就丟掉，再買一雙替換的。一般來說，它們是便宜的鞋子，即使擦得很好，第三次穿著時也會顯得有些破舊。它們只是不像更昂貴的型號那樣保持形狀，部分原因是它們通常沒有襯裡，而且通常是合成材料。

This book emphasises the importance of buying quality because good quality not only projects your success, how much you value yourself and your job, but is also better value for money. My 'disposable shoe' friends probably spend more on shoes over a year than others who buy better quality and they never experience the joy of looking wonderful and feeling comfortable.
本書強調購買品質的重要性，因為良好的品質不僅能反映您的成功、您對自己和工作的重視程度，而且也更物有所值。我的「一次性鞋」朋友可能比其他購買品質更好的人在一年多的時間裡花更多的錢在鞋子上，但他們從未體驗過看起來漂亮和感覺舒適的樂趣。

You should have about five pairs of good quality shoes to wear with your business clothes. They don't need to be the same in style or boringly safe. Have some variety in, say, two pairs, but with the majority
您應該有大約五雙優質鞋子來搭配您的商務服裝。它們不需要風格相同或安全得令人厭煩。有一些變化，例如兩對，但大多數

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1. A medium heel is as high as you should go for business. Tone the colour of your hosiery with your shoes for an elegant finish
1. 中跟鞋的高度適合商務場合。襪子的顏色與鞋子的顏色相匹配，打造優雅的外觀

2. Colourful details on shoes are distracting and unprofessional. Save them for the disco
2. 鞋子上的彩色細節會分散注意力且不專業。把它們留到迪斯可舞廳

3. Metallic shoes, popular in the summertime, aren't acceptable in many industries
3.夏季流行的金屬鞋在許多行業中並不被接受

4. Stacked heels and shoe-boots are best with trousers rather than skirts
4.疊跟鞋和鞋靴最適合搭配褲子而不是裙子

5. Keep the detail on your business shoes to a minimum
5. 盡量減少商務鞋上的細節

able to work well with any suit. Buy only calf leather or suede for work. In the summer, don't succumb to open-toed, or sandal styles or anything in shiny or patent leather. These styles and materials would weaken your professional image.
能夠與任何西裝完美搭配。只購買工作用小牛皮或絨面革。在夏天，不要屈服於露趾、涼鞋或任何閃亮或漆皮的款式。這些風格和材料會削弱你的職業形象。

Find a good manufacturer/label whose sizes and styles are comfortable on you. We have all at some time experimented with unknown brands and qualities and lived to regret the purchases every time we wear them or because we find we cannot wear them. You can pay a lot of money for poor quality but you can never pay a little and get more (unless you know your way around the wonderful leather outlets of Milan).
尋找尺寸和款式適合您的優質製造商/品牌。我們都曾在某個時候嘗試過未知的品牌和品質，但每次穿上它們或發現自己不能穿時都會後悔購買它們。您可以花很多錢購買劣質產品，但您永遠不可能花很少的錢就得到更多（除非您熟悉米蘭精彩的皮革專賣店）。

No matter if you spend £100 on a pair of shoes today, most of your purchases will require a cobbler's attention before wearing. Heels and
無論您今天是否花費 100 英鎊購買一雙鞋，大多數購買的鞋子在穿著之前都需要鞋匠的注意。高跟鞋和

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upper soles are so thin that if you wear them you risk damaging the upper part of the shoes. Replace the heels with quality leather or rubber as well as the toes or entire soles to ensure their longevity. Also treat any suede or fabric shoes (not a recommended investment) with a weather- or water- resistant spray before wearing. Nothing is as heartbreaking as getting caught in the rain on the first day of wearing new shoes, and have them acquire a permanent water-mark that cannot be concealed even by the most assiduous cleaning or polishing.
鞋面很薄，如果您穿著它們，可能會損壞鞋子的上部。用優質皮革或橡膠更換鞋跟以及腳趾或整個鞋底，以確保其使用壽命。在穿著之前，也要用防風雨或防水噴霧處理任何絨面革或織物鞋（不建議投資）。沒有什麼比第一天穿新鞋就被雨淋到並留下永久水印更令人心碎的了，即使最勤奮的清潔或拋光也無法掩蓋這種水印。

Store all your shoes in a cupboard or wardrobe between wearings, using shoe trees to help them keep their shape. Resting shoes for two to three days before wearing them again will allow the leather to recuperate and will help your shoes to last much longer.
在穿鞋期間將所有鞋子存放在櫥櫃或衣櫃中，使用鞋撐幫助它們保持形狀。將鞋子放置兩到三天後再穿，可以讓皮革恢復，從而使鞋子的使用壽命更長。

Boots should be worn only for practical reasons - either mid-winter to protect your feet from cold or snow - or during torrential rain. (In New York you need 'rubbers' - rubber boots - when it is stormy.) But during inclement weather always keep a pair of normal shoes in the office to look your best. When boots are very much in fashion, try to resist them unless you work in a particularly relaxed environment.
僅出於實際原因才應穿靴子 - 無論是在仲冬以保護雙腳免受寒冷或雪的侵襲 - 還是在傾盆大雨期間。（在紐約，暴風雨的時候你需要「橡膠」——橡膠靴。）但在惡劣天氣期間，請在辦公室裡始終保留一雙普通的鞋子，以保持最佳狀態。當靴子非常流行時，請嘗試抵制它們，除非您在特別輕鬆的環境中工作。

If you habitually walk a good distance to and from the office, by all means be sensible and change your smart business shoes for something more sturdy and comfortable. But don't forget to substitute more appropriate shoes once in the office.
如果您習慣步行很遠的距離往返辦公室，請務必保持明智，將您的商務鞋換成更堅固、更舒適的鞋子。但不要忘記進入辦公室後更換更合適的鞋子。

ATTACHÉS, BRIEF-CASES AND HANDBAGS
配件、公事包和手提包

Working women tend to carry around more clutter than men. We have our business papers in an attaché or folder and all of our personal items - make-up, hair brush, keys and so on in a handbag. So what's the problem? It's simply that coping with two bags makes your comings and goings both clumsy and distracting and for no good reason.
職業女性往往比男性攜帶更多雜物。我們將商業文件放在配件或文件夾中，並將所有個人物品（化妝品、髮刷、鑰匙等）放在手提包中。那麼問題出在哪裡呢？原因很簡單，拎著兩個包會讓你的出行既笨拙又分散注意力，而且毫無道理。

- The ideal arrangement is to have one receptacle for everything. If you are one of those women who use their bag as a filing cabinet cum holdall, take yourself firmly in hand. You really can survive without it. And you will. All of your personal bits a hair brush or comb, powder and lipstick - should be kept in a small make-up case and stored inside your attaché or brief-case along with your diary, wallet, cheque-book, keys, and pen-set. For women who travel by public transport or who are in and out of taxis and needing to get to their wallets easily, a small shoulder bag simply to hold your wallet is both acceptable and practical.
- 理想的安排是為所有物品配備一個容器。如果您是那些將包包用作文件櫃兼手提包的女性之一，請牢牢掌握自己。沒有它你真的可以生存。你會的。您所有的個人物品——髮刷或梳子、粉餅和口紅——都應該放在一個小化妝盒中，並與您的日記、錢包、支票簿、鑰匙和筆一起存放在您的公文包或公文包中——放。對於搭乘大眾運輸工具或進出計程車且需要輕鬆取放錢包的女性來說，一個僅能裝錢包的小單肩包既可以接受又實用。

When choosing an attaché or brief-case, buy the best you can afford and, preferably, in leather. Manufacturers are very much aware now of the considerable - and still increasing - army of career women, and they
選擇公文包或公文包時，請購買您能負擔得起的最好的，最好是皮革的。製造商現在非常清楚職業女性隊伍數量龐大且仍在增加，她們

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are bringing out new designs specifically for us. So shop around until you find one that suits your special needs.
專門為我們推出新設計。因此，請貨比三家，直到您找到適合您特殊需求的產品。

Unless you really do have to carry around large amounts of documentation, weigh in the balance one of the slim-line models - but with a base-line insert that allows reasonable expansion when needed. Bear in mind that leather bags can be heavy even when empty; make sure you will be able to carry yours with ease when it is full. Check the design of the handle, too. Is it comfortable to grip, not too thick yet sturdy enough not to let you down after a year or so of intensive use? Is it retractable so that you can carry it under your arm if and when necessary? While this is not essential, you might find it a useful facility.
除非您確實需要攜帶大量文檔，否則請權衡其中一款超薄型號 - 但帶有基線插入件，可以在需要時進行合理擴展。請記住，即使空著，皮包也可能很重；確保裝滿後您可以輕鬆攜帶。也要檢查手把的設計。它握起來是否舒適，不太厚但足夠堅固，不會在一年左右的密集使用後讓您失望？它是否可伸縮，以便您在需要時可以將其夾在腋下？雖然這不是必需的，但您可能會發現它是一個有用的功能。

Colour choice is still very limited; a few more neutrals could be added to the present ranges. However, black or a warm reddish-brown look smart with most businesswear; if navy is your main basic colour, you should be able to find this, too.
顏色選擇仍然非常有限；可以在目前的範圍內添加更多的中性色。然而，黑色或溫暖的紅棕色與大多數職業裝搭配都顯得很帥；如果海軍藍是您的主要基本顏色，您也應該能夠找到它。

If you hate hard attachés and brief-cases, and prefer a shoulder bag, look at attractive ones referred to as 'Shopping Bags' but which, in leather and with a price tag usually starting out around £100, are anything but! This style is very versatile in that you can carry papers for most meetings (it should be big enough to hold a normal file folder and pad of paper) and usually has handy zip compartments for personal items. If it has an adjustable strap, so much the better. Constantly carrying a heavy shoulder bag can be very wearing, not only for you but for your jacket. On occasions you might prefer to carry it as a 'grip'.
如果您討厭硬質公文包和公文包，而更喜歡單肩包，那麼可以考慮一下被稱為“購物袋”的有吸引力的包，但這種包是用皮革製成的，價格標籤通常在100 英鎊左右起價，但它們絕對不是！這種款式用途廣泛，您可以在大多數會議上攜帶文件（它應該足夠大，可以容納普通文件夾和便箋簿），並且通常具有方便的拉鍊隔層，可存放個人物品。如果有可調式肩帶就更好了。經常背著沉重的單肩包會很累，不僅對你來說，對你的夾克也是如此。有時您可能更願意將其作為“握把”攜帶。

Men in business judge each other's status by their attachés or briefcases. Increasingly, women do, too. Make sure your preferred style is both functional and as impressive as you can afford.
商界人士透過他們的隨員或公事包來判斷彼此的地位。越來越多的女性也這麼做了。確保您喜歡的款式既實用又令人印象深刻。

SCARVES AND SHAWLS
圍巾和披肩

If you have yet to discover the wonders of scarves as a means to be more colourful and interesting, come to London and visit Liberty's - scarf heaven! After you recover from the excitement of all the colours you'll be taken by the patterns some ethnic, others soft and floral or vibrant blends of texture, colour and abstraction. You won't be able to resist one. -
如果您還沒有發現圍巾的神奇之處，讓圍巾變得更加豐富多彩和有趣，那就來倫敦參觀 Liberty's - 圍巾天堂！當您從所有顏色的興奮中恢復過來後，您會被一些民族圖案、另一些柔和的花卉圖案或紋理、顏色和抽象的充滿活力的混合圖案所吸引。你將無法抗拒。 -

Again, you should begin by choosing scarves and shawls that compliment you first in terms of colouring, scale and personality. Once you've got your focus on a few, think of wearing the scarf with a simple dress or jacket. Obviously, it will be advisable to wear the dress or suit when you try on the scarf, if you plan to invest in an expensive one.
同樣，您應該首先選擇在顏色、尺寸和個性方面與您相得益彰的圍巾和披肩。一旦你把注意力集中在一些上面，你可以考慮將圍巾搭配簡單的連身裙或夾克。顯然，如果您打算投資一條昂貴的圍巾，建議您在試戴圍巾時穿裙子或西裝。

If you find scarves fiddly and can't stand the fuss with them moving
如果您發現圍巾很麻煩並且無法忍受它們移動的麻煩

PRESENTING YOURSELF
展現自己

1. Fold a medium-sized scarf (35 inches/90cm square is ideal) in half to make a triangle. Centre the triangle, hanging point down, under the neck Cross the ends behind the neck and bring down in front over the triangle
1. 將中型圍巾（35吋/90公分見方）對折成三角形。將三角形居中，懸掛點朝下，位於頸部下方，將兩端交叉到頸部後面，然後將其放在三角形的前面

2. Adjust to suit your neck and collar, then tie …..
2. 調整以適合您的頸部和衣領，然後繫帶...

3. in a double knot or secure with a small brooch
3.打成雙結或用小胸針固定

Scarves can transform the most basic outfits. Choose colours from your palette to complement your wardrobe. Select patterns in balance with your scale and that suit your personality
絲巾可以改變最基本的服裝。從調色板中選擇顏色來補充您的衣櫃。選擇與您的體重平衡且適合您的個性的圖案

about, you might consider larger shawls to wear with your jackets. Whichever shawl you choose can be secured with a pin to prevent it sliding from your shoulders. Silk scarves are more troublesome for the uninitiated scarf-wearer because they slide about more than wool ones. See the illustrations here for basic but undeniably stylish ways to wear scarves with confidence. There's no better way to compliment a new suit or coat, or to make older ones look new and exciting.
大約，您可能會考慮使用更大的披肩來搭配夾克。無論您選擇哪種披肩，都可以用別針固定，以防止其從肩膀上滑落。對於不熟悉圍巾佩戴的人來說，絲巾更麻煩，因為它們比羊毛圍巾更容易滑動。請參閱此處的插圖，了解自信地佩戴圍巾的基本但無可否認的時尚方式。沒有比這更好的方法來襯托新西裝或外套，或讓舊西裝或外套看起來煥然一新、令人興奮。

YOUR MAKE-UP POLISH
你的指甲油

Studies in America as well as in Europe bear out the fact that women who wear make-up to work not only stand a good chance of getting ahead of female colleagues who don't, but tend to earn more money and be promoted faster. Similar research was carried out in the mid-1980s
美國和歐洲的研究都證實了這樣一個事實：化妝上班的女性不僅比不化妝的女性同事更有可能獲得成功，而且往往能賺更多的錢，升職更快。 1980年代中期進行了類似的研究

POWER POLISH
強力拋光

1. Women in business who don't wear make-up look unpolished and unprofessional
1. 不化妝的職場女性看起來不優雅、不專業

2. Taking short cuts always shows. A dab of lipstick, blush and mascara evaporates by mid morning, leaving you looking bare, tired or ill
2.走捷徑總是會出現的。少量口紅、腮紅和睫毛膏會在上午中午蒸發，讓你看起來光禿禿的、疲倦的或生病的

3. It takes 10 minutes in the morning to complete a professional make-up that will last all day (aside from touching up your powder and lipstick). The results convey the right message: polished, professional and in charge
3.早上花10分鐘就能完成一整天的專業化妝（除了補粉和口紅之外）。結果傳達了正確的訊息：優雅、專業、負責

by Clairol in America and Drs. Jouhar and Graham in Britain to see whether a woman's make-up and hair style or grooming had any influence on employers. Photographs and CVs were sent out to top personnel officers, some showing the candidates wearing make-up and others without. The results showed that not only were the candidates wearing make-up more likely to be offered jobs but they were offered salaries up to 20 per cent higher.
由美國伊卡璐和 Drs 提供。喬哈爾和葛拉漢在英國檢視女性的化妝、髮型或儀容是否對雇主有影響。照片和履歷表被發送給高級人事官員，其中一些顯示候選人化妝，有些則沒有化妝。結果顯示，化妝的候選人不僅更有可能獲得工作機會，而且薪資也高出 20%。

When I cite these studies some of my female clients wince, resenting that they are judged unfairly not only on merit and their abilities but also on other more personally demanding standards than men in business. However, the fact that you are reading this book suggests that you have accepted that image is a key factor in your career progression. Make-up
當我引用這些研究時，我的一些女性客戶皺起眉頭，抱怨她們受到的不公平評判不僅基於她們的優點和能力，而且還基於其他比商界男性更嚴格的個人標準。然而，您正在閱讀這本書的事實表明您已經接受形像是您職業發展的關鍵因素。化妝品

PRESENTING YOURSELF
展現自己

just happens to be an additional factor for women. While men with beards may be unduly prejudiced against when job-seeking, so, too, are women who neglect to wear make-up.
對於女性來說，這恰好是一個額外的因素。雖然留鬍子的男性在求職時可能會受到過度的偏見，但不化妝的女性也會受到過度的偏見。

The good news, if you hate wearing make-up, is that you should look as if you are wearing very little. Our studies have shown that women who wear too much make-up, garish colours and heavy techniques, are considered to have a poorer image than a woman without. But the woman who looks fresh, natural and polished in a subtle make-up that compliments her wins hands-down every time.
好消息是，如果您討厭化妝，那麼您應該看起來好像穿得很少。我們的研究表明，濃妝豔抹、色彩繽紛、手法繁重的女性被認為比沒有化妝的女性形象更差。但是，那些看起來清新、自然、優雅、精緻的妝容、與自己相得益彰的女性每次都會輕鬆獲勝。

DOES YOUR MAKE-UP DATE YOU?
你的妝容適合你嗎？

Chances are, if you have ever been interested in eye-shadows and lipsticks, you learned how to apply make-up in your late teens and early twenties. Techniques learned then are generally still applied by women in their thirties, forties, fifties and beyond.
如果您曾經對眼影和口紅感興趣，那麼您很可能在十幾歲和二十出頭的時候就學會瞭如何化妝。當時學到的技術通常仍然被三十幾歲、四十幾歲、五十歲甚至更長的女性所應用。

It is all too easy for others to tell when you were in your prime simply by how you wear your make-up now. Heavy-handed black eyeliner screams that you left school in the early 1970s. Blue eye-shadow dates you to the late 50s. Pale, frosted pink lips and thick mascara are 1960s vintage. Going without foundation but treating your entire face to the shiny look is a hallmark of leaving school in the early 1980s. Are you unwittingly adding years to your age simply because you haven't learned how to apply make-up using up-to-date colours and techniques?
別人很容易透過你現在的妝容來判斷你什麼時候正值青春年華。粗暴的黑色眼線尖叫著你在 20 世紀 70 年代初離開了學校。藍色眼影帶你回到50年代末。蒼白的磨砂粉色嘴唇和濃密的睫毛膏是 20 世紀 60 年代的復古風格。不塗粉底但讓整個臉看起來有光澤是 20 世紀 80 年代初離開學校的標誌。您是否只是因為沒有學會如何使用最新的色彩和技術來化妝，從而不知不覺地增加了自己的年齡？

True, a trip to the cosmetics section or counter at a good department store can be daunting; the beauty assistants tend to look too perfect, almost unreal. They probably spent no less than an hour making themselves up, have 10 to 15 different products on their faces and need great perseverance to get it off in the evenings. This is not what I mean by Power Polish.
誠然，去一家好的百貨公司的化妝品區或櫃檯可能會讓人望而生畏。美容助理往往看起來過於完美，幾乎不真實。他們化妝的時間可能不少於一個小時，臉上塗有 10 到 15 種不同的產品，晚上需要很大的毅力才能卸掉。這不是我所說的強力拋光的意思。

No, to learn what is right for you, visit a make-up artist or image consultant who doesn't mind you bringing along your own make-up and will teach you how to do your own face, and suggest any other products that would further enhance your individual looks. Anyone can paint you up to look wonderful. The art is to teach you how to do it yourself. A perfect polish for business requires a simple method and some basic techniques that take no longer than 10 minutes each morning.
不，要了解什麼適合您，請拜訪化妝師或形象顧問，他們不介意您攜帶自己的化妝品，並會教您如何做自己的臉，並推薦任何其他可以滿足您需求的產品。個人外觀。任何人都可以把你打扮得漂漂亮亮的。藝術是教你如何自己做。完美的商務拋光需要簡單的方法和一些基本技巧，每天早上花的時間不超過 10 分鐘。

COLOURS THAT WORK FOR YOU
適合您的顏色

According to your colouring, select make-up shades that help you look healthy and well-groomed. Aim to compliment your own natural skin-
根據您的膚色，選擇有助於您看起來健康、整潔的化妝品色調。旨在讚美您自己的自然皮膚 -

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POWER POLISH
強力拋光

tone, eye and hair colour. Worry less about co-ordinating your eye- shadows with your outfits and concentrate rather on looking natural. A few, well-chosen colours will work with most of your wardrobe, and your make-up will help you achieve more in business if you use it to enhance your features as tools vital to communication.
語氣、眼睛和頭髮的顏色。不用擔心眼影與服裝的協調性，而是專注於看起來自然。一些精心挑選的顏色可以搭配你衣櫃裡的大部分衣服，如果你用它來增強你的特徵，作為溝通的重要工具，你的化妝品將幫助你在商業上取得更大的成就。

You want a clear, healthy complexion, not one artificially coloured to look darker, lighter, pinker or peachier than you are. Regardless of your age or the quality of your natural complexion, you can radiate health and vitality simply by choosing the right foundation, also judiciously using a small amount of concealer if necessary, then setting it with a colourless translucent powder and lightly applying a dash of a natural blush colour.
您想要的是清澈、健康的膚色，而不是人工著色的膚色，使膚色看起來比您的實際膚色更深、更淺、更粉紅或更桃紅。無論您的年齡或自然膚色如何，只需選擇合適的粉底，必要時明智地使用少量遮瑕膏，然後用無色半透明粉末定妝，並輕輕塗抹少許粉底，您就可以煥發健康和活力。的腮紅顏色。

Draw attention to your eyes - not with bright colours in your eye- shadows, liners or mascara but by subtle definition, 'framing' them with rich, almost neutral shades and emphasising the colours in your irises.
將注意力吸引到您的眼睛上——不是用眼影、眼線或睫毛膏中的鮮豔顏色，而是通過微妙的定義，用豐富的、幾乎中性的色調“框定”它們，並強調虹膜的顏色。

Your mouth should project confidence and vigour, and should be touched-up with a lipstick periodically throughout the day. Most women have strong feelings about the lipstick colours they prefer. For instance, while a red lipstick is needed when you wear red in your outfit, it is the preserve of only the most confident women. So many business women I have worked with recoil at the suggestion of wearing a red lipstick. If unaccustomed to wearing lipstick regularly, start with a more natural tone that compliments the colours of your palette.
你的嘴應該表現出自信和活力，並且應該全天定期用口紅修飾。大多數女性對自己喜歡的口紅顏色有強烈的感覺。例如，雖然當你穿著紅色衣服時需要紅色唇膏，但它只是最有自信的女性的專利。我曾與許多女商人合作過，他們對塗紅色口紅的建議感到畏懼。如果不習慣經常塗口紅，請從更自然的色調開始，以與您的調色板顏色相得益彰。

If your colouring is essentially 'warm' a salmon, terracotta, or warm pink will work with most things. If you have 'cool' colouring try a wine, deep rose or soft mauve. Very light, pale or pearlised/frosted lipsticks are not business-like. Go for colours that are medium in depth, not too dark, and matt in finish.
如果你的顏色本質上是“暖色”，鮭魚色、赤土色或暖粉色適合大多數東西。如果您有“冷”色，請嘗試酒紅色、深玫瑰色或柔和的紫紅色。非常淡、蒼白或珠光/磨砂的口紅不適合商務人士。選擇中等深度、不太暗且霧面的顏色。

MAKE-UP TIPS FOR WORKING WOMEN
職業婦女化妝技巧

Select a foundation that matches the colour of your skintone along the jawline.
選擇與下巴輪廓膚色相匹配的粉底。

◆ Use a lighter foundation than your normal colour or concealer on dark patches (around the eyes, corners of the nose, on the chin) to look fresher and achieve a more even complexion.
◆ 在黑斑處（眼睛周圍、鼻角、下巴）使用比正常顏色更淺的粉底或遮瑕膏，使膚色看起來更清新、更均勻。

◆ If blusher disappears on you, try using a cream blusher before you powder, then add a soft dash of powder blusher on top.
◆ 如果腮紅在你身上消失了，可以在上粉之前嘗試使用霜狀腮紅，然後在上面添加少量粉狀腮紅。

◆ Apply loose translucent powder to set your foundation using a powder puff or by pressing in with cotton wool. Within minutes it will be absorbed.
◆ 使用粉撲或用棉花按壓，塗抹半透明散粉定妝粉底。幾分鐘之內它就會被吸收。

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PRESENTING YOURSELF
展現自己

◆ A light eye-base applied all over the lid before any eye-shadow helps your eye-shadow last 12 hours or more without creasing.
◆ 在塗抹眼影之前，在整個眼瞼上塗上淺色眼底，可以幫助您的眼影持續 12 小時或更長時間，而不會產生褶皺。

◆ Use soft, neutral colours for your eye-shadow. Apply peach or a soft pink as a base and use a rich brown or grey to define and give the eyes depth.
◆ 使用柔和、中性的眼影色彩。使用桃色或柔和的粉紅色作為底色，並使用濃鬱的棕色或灰色來定義和賦予眼睛深度。

◆ Use a soft taupe or brown eye-shadow, lighter than the colour of your own eyebrows, to fill in any uneven patches (more natural looking than using pencil).
◆ 使用比自己眉毛顏色淺的柔和灰褐色或棕色眼影來填充任何不均勻的斑塊（比使用鉛筆看起來更自然）。

◆ Use a little clear mascara or hair gel on a comb to brush eyebrows up and into place.
◆ 用梳子沾取少許透明睫毛膏或髮膠，將眉毛向上梳理並固定到位。

◆ A soft line along the outer third of your top and lower eyelids, using a rich kohl pencil, makes your eyelashes look thicker.
◆ 使用濃密的眼線筆沿著上眼瞼和下眼瞼的外三分之一畫一條柔和的線條，讓您的睫毛看起來更濃密。

Apply lip pencil in a natural colour all over your lips before using your lipstick - it helps your lipstick last much longer.
在使用口紅之前，先用自然顏色的唇筆塗滿整個嘴唇，這樣可以讓口紅更持久。

◆ Touch up your powder and lipstick a couple of times during the working day.
◆ 工作天期間補幾次粉和口紅。

◆ Try not to touch your face excessively.
◆ 盡量不要過度觸摸臉部。

GO ON, SMILE!
繼續，微笑！

Second only to your eyes, your mouth is a central focus in communication. How naturally do you use and express yourself with your mouth when you speak, and when you smile?
嘴巴是僅次於眼睛的溝通焦點。當你說話和微笑時，你如何自然地用嘴巴表達自己？

Many people develop strained, controlled mouth movements to hide embarrassing teeth. But the effect of such antics only convey other negative signals about your personality and confidence which may be far more detrimental to your image than your chipped, stained or missing teeth. If your teeth and gums aren't healthy or attractive there are several affordable remedies you should consider.
許多人會用緊張、受控的嘴部動作來隱藏令人尷尬的牙齒。但這種滑稽的行為只會傳達出關於你的個性和自信的其他負面訊號，這可能比你的牙齒破損、染色或缺失更損害你的形象。如果您的牙齒和牙齦不健康或不美觀，您應該考慮幾種經濟實惠的補救措施。

BRIGHTEN YOUR SMILE WITH WHITER TEETH
讓牙齒更白，笑容更燦爛

Most adults experience tooth discoloration as part of the ageing process, but tea, coffee, alcohol and smoking all make it worse. Special toothpastes can remove stains and prevent new ones with regular use. For those who want really gleaming teeth cosmetic bleaching is an option. A special cosmetic dentist takes an impression of your mouth and makes a mouth guard which contains a small amount of non-toxic bleach. The
大多數成年人都會經歷牙齒變色，這是老化過程的一部分，但茶、咖啡、酒精和吸煙都會使情況變得更糟。經常使用特殊牙膏可以去除污漬並防止新污漬產生。對於那些想要真正閃閃發光的牙齒的人來說，美容漂白是一種選擇。特殊的美容牙醫會對您的口腔進行印模，並製作含有少量無毒漂白劑的護齒套。這

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Before cosmetic dental treatment
美容牙科治療前

After treatment
治療後

guard needs to be worn for one hour a day and takes between 3 and 6 weeks to reach the desired state of whiteness.
防護罩需要每天配戴一小時，需要 3 至 6 週才能達到理想的白度狀態。

FILLING UNSIGHTLY GAPS AND CRACKS
填補難看的縫隙和裂縫

Gaps or chipped teeth can make you look older and unhealthy but they can easily be rectified by a qualified cosmetic dentist in a matter of weeks. Veneers of a thin porcelain facing can be used to cover unsightly stained or chipped teeth, or improve the alignment of crooked teeth. These veneers are very strong and natural looking.
牙齒間隙或缺口會讓您看起來更老且不健康，但合格的美容牙醫可以在幾週內輕鬆修復它們。薄瓷貼片可用於遮蓋難看的污漬或缺牙，或改善彎曲牙齒的排列。這些飾面非常堅固且看起來自然。

For smaller gaps or chips, bonding and contouring may be used. A putty-like material is added to the tooth then moulded and set with ultraviolet light.
對於較小的間隙或碎片，可以使用黏合和輪廓加工。將類似油灰的材料添加到牙齒上，然後模製並用紫外線固化。

Cosmetic crowns and bridges should be considered for replacing missing teeth or to cover teeth crumbling from overfilling or broken beyond benefiting from bonding. A crown is an individual porcelain tooth that is fitted over an existing damaged or unsightly tooth. The existing tooth is reduced to accommodate it. A bridge is used to replace missing teeth and requires the teeth on either side of the gap to be reduced and cemented with a fixture to keep the dummy tooth or teeth in place. While more complicated, getting a bridge is far preferable to dentures.
應考慮使用美容冠和牙橋來替換缺失的牙齒，或覆蓋因過度填充而破碎的牙齒或無法從黏接中獲益的斷裂牙齒。牙冠是安裝在現有受損或難看牙齒上的單一瓷牙。現有的牙齒被縮小以適應它。牙橋用於替換缺失的牙齒，需要縮小間隙兩側的牙齒並用固定裝置粘合，以將假牙固定在適當的位置。雖然更複雜，但安裝牙橋比假牙好得多。

Another method of replacing missing teeth is with implants. The advantage of implants is that adjacent teeth to the gap aren't affected in any way.
替代缺牙的另一種方法是植牙。植牙的優點是間隙附近的牙齒不會受到任何影響。

If you feel the least self-conscious about your teeth, consult your dentist on the possibilities of cosmetic dentistry. If she says that you are imagining the problem, don't stop there. Your dentist might not be
如果您對自己的牙齒最不在意，請諮詢您的牙醫，以了解美容牙科的可能性。如果她說問題是你的想像，請不要就此打住。你的牙醫可能不是

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a qualified cosmetic dentist and be too embarrassed to say so or professional enough to recommend someone who can help. You want to find a trained and recognised cosmetic dentist who will gladly give you references, show photographs of clients before and after treatments, and who ideally has spent time training in America which has the state-of- the-art techniques and treatments.
一位合格的美容牙醫，但不好意思說出這樣的話，或者足夠專業地推薦可以提供幫助的人。您希望找到一位經過培訓且認可的美容牙醫，他會很樂意為您提供參考資料，展示客戶治療前後的照片，並且最好在擁有最先進技術和治療的美國接受過培訓。

YOUR HAIR
你的頭髮

You know how wonderful you feel on a day when your hair looks good and how miserable you feel, no matter how well-dressed, if it isn't up to par. But as a busy working woman you need a hairstyle that you can maintain yourself. Gone are the days when we women visited the hairdresser for a regular ‘shampoo and set'. We don't have the time to while away at a salon, nor is more than the four to six weekly trim and treatment affordable for most of us.
你知道，當你的頭髮看起來不錯的時候，你的感覺是多麼美妙；如果你的頭髮不符合標準，無論穿著多麼考究，你的感覺是多麼痛苦。但身為忙碌的職業女性，您需要一種可以自己保養的髮型。我們女性定期去美髮店進行「洗髮精和套裝」的日子已經一去不復返了。我們沒有時間去美容院消磨時間，對於我們大多數人來說，每週進行四到六次的修剪和護理也負擔不起。

So, how well does the colour, cut and style of your hair compliment your business image? Be honest. Consider how it looks most days. If you spend good money on your clothes but don't bother to frame your face with an attractive hairstyle, you aren't doing yourself justice. Look back to Ruth on page 99. Before her hair was restyled she looked undercon- fident and timid because her hair was hiding her face. The right style makes the most of your features and adds power to your presence. Here are the factors you need to consider.
那麼，你的髮色、剪裁和款式與你的商業形象相得益彰嗎？說實話。考慮一下它大多數時候的樣子。如果你在衣服上花了很多錢，卻不費心用迷人的髮型來修飾你的臉，那麼你就沒有公正地對待自己。回顧第 99 頁的露絲。正確的風格可以充分發揮您的特色，並為您的形象增添力量。以下是您需要考慮的因素。

YOUR FACE SHAPE
你的臉型

You will want a style that compliments the shape and features of your face. Pull your hair back and look in the mirror. How would you describe the shape of your face? Does any part of your face predominate - your jaw line, cheekbones, or forehead?
您需要一款能夠襯托您的臉型和特徵的款式。把頭髮往後梳，照鏡子。你會如何形容你的臉型？您臉部的任何部分是否占主導地位 - 下巴線、顴骨或前額？

If you don't have a symmetrical oval face (which looks good in just about any style) you need to soften areas of your face that are the strongest and draw attention elsewhere to create balance.
如果您沒有對稱的橢圓形臉（幾乎任何風格都很好看），您需要柔化臉部最強的區域並吸引其他地方的注意力以創造平衡。

◆ The last thing a woman with a wide jaw wants is a sharp bob that ends at her jawline. She wants to add height to the top, say with a soft, angled fringe or layers on the crown, and to soften her jawline with length in the back but little around the face.
◆ 寬下巴的女人最不想要的就是在下巴處留一個尖利的波波頭。她想增加頂部的高度，例如在頭頂上添加柔軟的、有角度的瀏海或層次，並透過後面的長度但臉部周圍的長度來柔化她的下巴輪廓。

A very round face doesn't want a lot of curls around the cheeks but rather a sleek, pulled-back or long style to minimise the fullness.
非常圓的臉不希望臉頰周圍有很多捲髮，而是需要光滑、向後拉或長的髮型，以盡量減少豐滿感。

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◆ A long, oblong face looks even longer if you have long, straight hair. Styles that are full at the sides are more flattering.
◆ 如果你有長直發，長方形臉看起來會比較長。兩側飽滿的款式更討人喜歡。

If your hairdresser can't advise you on how to compliment your face shape with an appropriate cut and styling, then it is time to find a stylist who can.
如果您的美髮師無法建議您如何透過適當的剪髮和造型來襯托您的臉型，那麼是時候尋找一位可以提供幫助的造型師了。

THE COLOUR
顏色

Many women benefit from enhancing the natural colour of their hair with a semi-permanent rinse or permanent dye. High-lights and low- lights can look wonderfully natural and are especially recommended for women who consider their own hair colour 'mousey'.
許多女性受益於透過半永久性沖洗或永久性染髮來增強頭髮的自然顏色。高光和低光看起來非常自然，特別推薦給那些認為自己的髮色為「老鼠色」的女性。

Guidelines we give to women when looking for a new hair colour is to go with nature. If you weren't ever a blonde, the chances are you will not look good with blonde high-lights. If your hair gets 'ash' high-lights when you are out in the sunshine, then dyeing your hair red will look ghastly. Any new colour should make you look natural and healthy. One that makes you look pale, fights with your eyebrows or takes all the sparkle out of your eyes isn't worth it, no matter what the fashion magazines declare to be the 'latest' hair colour.
在尋找新髮色時，我們給女性的指導方針是順應自然。如果你不是金髮女郎，那麼你的金髮高光很可能不會好看。如果你的頭髮在陽光下變得「灰燼」高光，那麼把頭髮染成紅色會看起來很可怕。任何新顏色都應該讓您看起來自然健康。無論時尚雜誌宣稱什麼是「最新」的髮色，那種讓你看起來蒼白、眉毛打架或失去眼睛所有光芒的髮色都是不值得的。

Don't rely on your favourite hairdresser for the best advice on a new hair colour. See a 'colourist' to discuss your concerns and to get it right. A professional colourist will charge you more but at least you shouldn't end up looking ancient or as if you are wearing a wig - too often the result of a trial and error session at the local salon. If you have a large department store within easy travelling distance, you could carry out your own colour and style trial, by trying on a few wigs in the colour and style/s you have in mind.
不要依賴您最喜歡的美髮師提供有關新髮色的最佳建議。與“調色師”討論您的疑慮並解決問題。專業調色師會向你收取更多費用，但至少你不會看起來很古老，或好像你戴著假髮——這往往是在當地沙龍反覆試驗的結果。如果您在方便的旅行距離內有一家大型百貨公司，您可以透過試戴一些您想要的顏色和款式的假髮來進行自己的顏色和款式試驗。

TEXTURE
質地

Some women are blessed with hair that can dry naturally and look wonderful. Most of us, however, rely on the 'miracle' treatments available today to help improve the texture of our natural manes perms to add body or curls; mousses and gels to add shape to the limpest hair; as well as oils, waxes and conditioners to improve its natural state. Certainly, given the range of treatments available, you have no excuse today for not making the most of your hair. So take a look in the mirror and ask yourself if you could look slimmer, and younger, with a new style. Give it a go. A terrific new style can do as much to change your image as a new suit and is much less expensive.
有些女性擁有可以自然乾燥且看起來美妙的頭髮。然而，我們大多數人依靠當今可用的「奇蹟」治療來幫助改善自然鬃毛燙髮的質地，以增加身體或捲髮；摩絲和髮膠為最柔軟的頭髮增添形狀；以及油、蠟和調理劑以改善其自然狀態。當然，鑑於可用的治療方法多種多樣，您今天沒有理由不充分利用您的頭髮。因此，照照鏡子，問問自己是否可以透過新的風格看起來更苗條、更年輕。試一試吧。一套很棒的新款式可以像一套新西裝一樣改變你的形象，而且價格便宜得多。

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CHAPTER 9
第9章

Fit for Success
適合成功

In the last few years there has been a redefinition of what it takes to project success. Not only do you need to look smart but you must also look healthy. Being fit and 'in shape' has become a metaphor for being in control of yourself. The logic extends to being in control of your career and therefore successful.
在過去的幾年裡，人們重新定義了專案成功所需的條件。你不僅需要看起來聰明，而且你必須看起來健康。健康和「體形」已成為自我控制的隱喻。這個邏輯延伸到掌控你的職涯並因此獲得成功。

Sedentary readers may be ready to flip to another section. 'Spare me another lecture about losing weight, taking up jogging or pumping iron. I am too busy and, quite frankly, beyond it.' But take heart; the experts no longer recommend vigorous, sweaty pursuits as the only way to tone- up but small changes to your sedentary lifestyle that can strengthen your vital organs (your heart especially), make you look more alert - and feel more energetic.
久坐的讀者可能準備好翻到另一部分。 “別再給我講有關減肥、慢跑或舉重的講座了。”我太忙了，坦率地說，已經超出了。但要振作起來；專家不再建議將劇烈、出汗的活動作為強身健體的唯一方法，而是對久坐的生活方式進行一些小改變，可以增強您的重要器官（尤其是心臟），讓您看起來更警覺，感覺更有活力。

FAT IS A DISCRIMINATORY ISSUE
脂肪是歧視性問題

How do you define someone who looks unhealthy? The scales don't tell the complete story. Many large women who, according to slimming experts, are 'overweight', are actually very fit and healthy but technically do not conform to standards of desirable weights for certain heights and bone structures. A person who is skinny and puny can also be unfit and have an unhealthy lifestyle. It is just that 'overweight' women are considered to be responsible for their condition. The usual argument goes that they ate themselves into their state and they are therefore judged harshly if they don't get themselves back into a condition valued as 'ideal'.
你如何定義一個看起來不健康的人？秤並不能講述完整的故事。根據減肥專家的說法，許多「超重」的大塊頭女性實際上非常健康，但從技術上講，不符合某些身高和骨骼結構的理想體重標準。一個瘦弱的人也可能不健康且生活方式不健康。只是「超重」的女性被認為應對她們的狀況負責。通常的說法是，他們把自己吃進了自己的狀態，因此，如果他們不能讓自己回到被視為「理想」的狀態，他們就會受到嚴厲的評判。

It is a fact that overweight people are discriminated against at work. In a survey we conducted of Britain's top 200 companies, in 1992, per-
超重的人在工作中受到歧視是事實。 1992 年，我們對英國 200 強公司進行了一項調查，

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sonnel and financial directors ranked looking 'fit and healthy' as the second key factor in hiring people (just behind a smart appearance). They defined 'fit' as trim and not overweight. A widely-held perception in business and public life is that the overweight just let themselves go, and if they lack self-control how can they be expected to deliver on the job? They won't be as exacting nor as persevering as their fitter colleagues. If they can't even plan what they eat to get their weight under control, how can they be relied upon to plan anything else?
員工和財務總監將「健康」列為招募人員的第二個關鍵因素（僅次於漂亮的外表）。他們將“健康”定義為苗條而不是超重。商界和公共生活中普遍存在的看法是，超重的人只是放縱自己，如果他們缺乏自控力，怎麼能指望他們在工作中表現出色呢？他們不會像身體更健康的同事那樣嚴格或堅持不懈。如果他們甚至無法計劃吃什麼來控制體重，怎麼能指望他們計劃其他事情？

The prejudice goes on, and sooner or later the overweight find their careers get blocked. For example, if deciding which of two equally competent people should be sent overnight to New York on the 'Red-Eye' for the morning presentation, you can bet that the 'fitter', slimmer person gets the opportunity.
偏見持續存在，超重者遲早會發現自己的職業生涯受到阻礙。例如，如果決定兩個同樣有能力的人中的哪一個應該連夜被派往紐約參加早上的“紅眼”演示，您可以打賭“更健康”、更苗條的人會獲得機會。

Unlike sex and race discrimination, there is no legislation about discrimination against overweight people, except in the State of California - where it is illegal to discriminate in hiring just on the basis of how a person looks and that covers the unattractive as well as the overweight. If you don't look healthy and are substantially overweight you will probably be subjected to discrimination in your career, if you haven't been already. You will miss out on potential job advancement, new opportunities and, possibly, the pay you deserve because you don't have what the business world today considers a Successful Image. The right clothes can help but they can't hide a body that most consider only in pejorative terms.
與性別和種族歧視不同，沒有關於歧視超重者的立法，除了加利福尼亞州外，在該州，僅根據一個人的外表進行招聘歧視是非法的，並且涵蓋了不漂亮的人和超重的人。如果您看起來不健康且體重嚴重超標，那麼您可能會在職業生涯中受到歧視（如果您還沒有受到歧視的話）。你將錯過潛在的工作晉升、新的機會，甚至可能失去你應得的薪水，因為你沒有當今商業世界所認為的成功形象。合適的衣服可以有所幫助，但它們無法隱藏大多數人只以貶抑的方式看待的身體。

THE SECRET OF WEIGHT CONTROL
體重控制的秘密

Most women who are slaves to diets are basically miserable and can't accept themselves for who they are. You might be overweight and want to lose excess pounds, but dieting isn't the way to long term weight control.
大多數成為節食奴隸的女性基本上都很痛苦，無法接受自己的本來面目。您可能超重並想減掉多餘的體重，但節食並不是長期控制體重的方法。

We each have a predetermined natural body weight, and if we try to fall below it we feel ill, weak and invariably give up trying to maintain our desired weight. Most diets cause you to crave sugar, to become mildly or acutely hypoglycaemic. This will cause you to eat, and once you start it becomes difficult to stop. The bottom-line is that 95 per cent of dieters regain the previously lost weight after all the struggle and upset of their weight-loss regime. Many actually put on more than they lost because their basic metabolism has adjusted to the lower food intake.
我們每個人都有一個預定的自然體重，如果我們試圖低於它，我們就會感到不舒服、虛弱，並且總是放棄維持我們想要的體重。大多數飲食都會導致您對糖的渴望，從而導致輕度或嚴重低血糖。這會導致你吃東西，一旦開始就很難停下來。底線是，95% 的節食者在經歷了減肥計劃的所有掙扎和失敗後，都恢復了之前減掉的體重。許多人實際上增加的量比減少的量多，因為他們的基本新陳代謝已經適應了較低的食物攝取量。

So, forget about weighing yourself and stop dieting. Avoid quick-fix approaches to getting slim. Most diets focus on food - what types to eat and how much, involving you in weighing and combining schemes that
所以，忘記稱體重並停止節食。避免採取快速減肥方法。大多數飲食都集中在食物上——吃什麼類型和吃多少，讓你參與權重和組合計劃，

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almost become full-time jobs to maintain. Instead, reconsider your attitude towards food. If you eat when you aren't hungry, if you gorge on things you know are harmfully 'fattening', then you are in self- destructive mode with an unnatural focus on and unhealthy attitude towards food. If you consider yourself to be a sensible person, you only need to develop a sensible approach to living which includes what, how and when you eat.
幾乎成為全職工作來維持。相反，重新考慮你對食物的態度。如果你在不餓的時候吃東西，如果你狼吞虎嚥地吃那些你知道有害的「增肥」的東西，那麼你就處於自我毀滅的模式，對食物有不自然的關注和不健康的態度。如果你認為自己是個明智的人，那麼你只需要製定一種明智的生活方式，包括吃什麼、如何吃以及何時吃。

Here are ten simple guidelines which most of today's diet and fitness gurus concur can radically transform your weight as well as make you feel wonderful. The best thing about them is that they are easy to remember and simple to follow so they're perfect for today's busy working women.
這裡有十個簡單的指南，當今大多數飲食和健身專家都同意這些指南可以從根本上改變您的體重，並讓您感覺美妙。它們的最大優點是易於記憶且易於遵循，因此非常適合當今忙碌的職業女性。

◆ Don't skip meals.
◆ 不要不吃飯。

◆ Eat smaller amounts, four to five times a day rather than three large meals.
◆ 少量多餐，每天四到五次，而不是三餐大餐。

Drink a litre of mineral or filtered water daily to help eliminate the build-up of harmful toxins which trap fluids and fat.
每天喝一公升礦泉水或過濾水，有助於消除積聚的有害毒素，這些毒素會滯留液體和脂肪。

◆ Avoid fried foods and those with a high fat content. Use olive oil (you need less and digest it more easily than animal or vegetable oil) in cooking or dressings.
◆ 避免油炸食品和脂肪含量高的食品。在烹飪或調味料中使用橄欖油（比動物油或植物油需要更少且更容易消化）。

◆ Try eating one meal of just vegetables or fruit daily, to treat your body to essential natural nutrients for energy and health, and to 'flush out' your system.
◆ 每天嘗試只吃一頓蔬菜或水果，為您的身體提供必需的天然營養素，以提供能量和健康，並「沖洗」您的系統。

◆ Avoid soft, fizzy or caffeine drinks.
◆ 避免喝軟性飲料、碳酸飲料或含咖啡因的飲料。

◆ Don't eat after 8pm unless it's a special occasion. Try to keep the evening meal the lightest of the day.
◆ 晚上8點以後不要吃東西，除非是特殊場合。晚餐盡量保持一天中最清淡的。

Sit down to eat, and chew slowly and thoroughly. Don't watch TV or read a book at the same time. Concentrate on your food and savour every mouthful.
坐下來吃飯，慢慢地、徹底地咀嚼。不要同時看電視或讀書。專注於你的食物並品嚐每一口。

◆ Don't add sugar or salt to your food; apart from a little salt when cooking.
◆ 不要在食物中添加糖或鹽；除了煮的時候加一點鹽。

◆ Have three alcohol-free days a week.
◆ 每週三天禁酒。

You know how to eat healthily. No one needs to tell you to cut out sweets, biscuits, chocolate and highly processed foods in order to stay trim. You don't need to count calories. Neither starve yourself nor gorge yourself. Enjoy your meals, keeping an honest appraisal of what you are
你知道如何健康飲食。沒有人需要告訴你為了保持苗條而不要吃甜食、餅乾、巧克力和精加工食品。你不需要計算卡路里。既不要挨餓，也不要暴飲暴食。享受美食，誠實地評價自己

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eating. Simply return to healthy eating and befriend yourself as you are. You'll be surprised how soon those skirts begin to feel comfortable, how much better you will feel, and how terrific you will look.
吃。只需回歸健康飲食並與真實的自己交朋友即可。您會驚訝地發現這些裙子很快就會開始感覺舒適，您會感覺好多了，而且您看起來會多麼棒。

STAYING FIT WITH EXERCISE
透過運動保持健康

If it has been a while since you had a complete physical and you don't know exactly how fit you are for your age, why not book an appointment with your doctor or at a fitness assessment clinic - a medical one, not your local gym. Most private health insurers have these clinics, and are usually willing to provide this check-up service even if you are not a member of their scheme. The service does not come cheap; but it is worth the price.
如果您已經有一段時間沒有進行一次全面的體檢，並且您不知道自己到底適合自己的年齡，為什麼不與您的醫生或健身評估診所預約 - 醫療診所，而不是您當地的健身房。大多數私人健康保險公司都設有這些診所，即使您不是他們計劃的成員，通常也願意提供這種檢查服務。這項服務並不便宜；但它是值得的。

The American fitness guru, Dr Kenneth Cooper (the man who coined 'aerobics'), recommends a fitness stress test as part of any annual physical. This is where you are linked up to an electro-cardiogram while doing exercises such as walking, riding an exercise bicycle or running on a treadmill. By means of this test, doctors can see if any of the arteries to the heart are under strain or blocked. Even if you are a 'fitness freak', after 40 you should have this test done every two years, according to Cooper.
美國健身大師肯尼斯庫柏博士（「有氧運動」的創造者）建議將健身壓力測試作為年度體檢的一部分。這是您在進行步行、騎健身自行車或在跑步機上跑步等運動時連接到心電圖的地方。透過這項測試，醫生可以查看心臟的動脈是否受到壓力或阻塞。庫柏表示，即使您是“健身狂”，40 歲以後您也應該每兩年進行一次這項測試。

After a good physical check-up, it's time to analyse your activity level and develop a fitness programme to suit your lifestyle. You don't need to take out an expensive membership to a Health Club or buy a new wardrobe of Lycra leotards to get your fitness under control. You can build it into your life by changing your behaviour throughout the regular working day. It is the extent to which you move your body and are active throughout the day that determines your fitness, as much as any regular workout programme. Walking, climbing stairs and lifting things - rather than resorting to all the modern conveniences available to avoid activity, like cars and lifts can keep you as fit as you need to be.
在良好的身體檢查後，是時候分析您的活動水平並制定適合您生活方式的健身計劃了。您無需購買昂貴的健身俱樂部會員資格或購買一套新的萊卡緊身衣即可控制您的健康狀況。您可以透過改變整個工作日的行為來將其融入您的生活中。與任何常規運動計劃一樣，您全天活動身體和活動的程度決定了您的健康狀況。步行、爬樓梯和提東西——而不是訴諸汽車和電梯等所有現代便利設施來避免活動，可以讓您保持所需的健康狀態。

If you are a newcomer to regular exercise, you are advised to take it slowly but to do some moderate activity for gradually longer periods. Rather than a ten minute dash around the park in the morning, walk 20 or 30 minutes to the office (get off the train a stop or two early or park your car further away). Do this three or four days a week and you will have a fitter body in six months.
如果您是定期運動的新手，建議您慢慢進行，但進行一些適度的活動，並逐漸延長時間。與其早上在公園裡跑十分鐘，不如步行 20 或 30 分鐘到辦公室（提前一兩站下車或將車停在更遠的地方）。每週這樣做三到四天，六個月後你就會擁有更健康的身體。

Dr Kenneth Cooper, who directs the Cooper Aerobics Institute in Dallas, has studied the correlation between death and fitness among business-people who came to his clinic for health checks. The greatest number of fatalities were among those who took no exercise. However, the people who took 'some regular exercise' had a significantly improved lifespan.
達拉斯庫柏健身操研究所所長肯尼斯庫柏博士研究了到他的診所進行健康檢查的商務人士的死亡與健康之間的相關性。死亡人數最多的是那些不運動的人。然而，進行「定期運動」的人的壽命顯著延長。

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So with just a little effort you can not only look and feel better but you can live longer. Fitness helps you fight off the degenerative processes of ageing, such as heart disease, high blood pressure, and stiff joints. You can have a say in how fast you age. Fit and healthy women in their forties can have the vitality of sedentary colleagues 10 to 15 years younger, and often enjoy even more energy. So fitness can help the insecure middle- aged women threatened by younger talent vying for their jobs, by keeping a few paces ahead - both literally and figuratively!
因此，只需付出一點努力，您不僅可以看起來更好、感覺更好，而且可以活得更久。健身可以幫助您對抗老化過程中的退化過程，例如心臟病、高血壓和關節僵硬。您可以對自己衰老的速度有發言權。四十多歲的健康女性可以擁有年輕 10 至 15 歲的久坐同事的活力，而且往往會享受更多的精力。因此，健身可以幫助缺乏安全感的中年女性在爭奪工作崗位的年輕人才的威脅下，保持領先一步——無論是字面上的還是像徵意義上的！

WALK BEFORE YOU RUN
跑步前先走

Walking, a favoured pastime throughout Europe, is now a sport, and is the best exercise for the uninitiated. In America, walking clubs have popped up everywhere. Jane Fonda and other fitness gurus actually do videos on how to walk. It is important, of course, to wear specially designed 'walking' shoes, not the ones you think of when you head to the hills, but trainers with special soles and construction to facilitate street-walking. You don't need to spend money on designer models, but you do need comfortable shoes with inbuilt support in the right places to make the most of walking and to encourage you to go for longer stints.
步行是整個歐洲最受歡迎的消遣方式，現在已成為一項運動，並且對新手來說是最好的鍛鍊方式。在美國，健走俱樂部隨處可見。簡方達和其他健身大師實際上製作了有關如何行走的影片。當然，重要的是要穿專門設計的「步行」鞋，不是您去山上時想到的鞋，而是具有特殊鞋底和結構的運動鞋，以方便街頭行走。您不需要花錢購買名牌鞋款，但您確實需要舒適的鞋子，並在適當的位置提供內置支撐，以充分利用步行並鼓勵您進行更長時間的步行。

Walking is much safer than running and more practicable for working people because it is a part of everyday life. But make sure you know 'how to walk', so you get the most out of the activity. Shuffling about or walking all hunched up doesn't make the most of the exercise. Keep your shoulders back to allow the lungs to function fully. Next, thrust the pelvis slightly forward - just a little more than you normally would - to allow full movement of the hips; you want them to roll easily from side to side as you walk. It is preferable to walk unencumbered letting your arms swing slightly as you move. Consider a back-pack to carry your gear to and from the office (keeping your smart attaché or brief-case in your desk for use at meetings throughout the day).
對上班族來說，步行比跑步更安全、更實用，因為步行是日常生活的一部分。但請確保您知道“如何行走”，以便從這項活動中獲得最大收益。拖著腳走或弓著背走路並不能充分利用這項運動。保持肩膀向後，讓肺部充分發揮功能。接下來，將骨盆稍微向前推──只比平常多一點──讓臀部充分運動；您希望它們在您行走時輕鬆地左右滾動。最好是無阻礙地行走，讓手臂在移動時輕微擺動。考慮使用背包來攜帶您的裝備往返辦公室（將您的智慧公文包或公文包放在辦公桌上，以便全天在會議時使用）。

Use your whole foot when you walk. Feel your toes, land your heel first then roll your sole forward. Use your ankles. Stretch your stride. The longer the stride the greater the effort, and the more muscles you will stretch throughout your body. A good walk engages your whole body as well as your mind and, eventually, your spirit. If you build more walking into your daily life, you'll feel and look fitter in no time.
走路時用整個腳。感受你的腳趾，先讓腳跟著地，然後向前滾動腳底。用你的腳踝。伸展你的步伐。步幅越長，付出的努力就越大，全身的肌肉就越多。一次好的散步可以調動你的整個身體和思想，最終調動你的精神。如果您在日常生活中多步行，您很快就會感覺更健康、看起來更健康。

THAT BEAUTIFUL BUZZ
那美麗的嗡嗡聲

Exercise is beneficial not simply to help burn calories and to keep your weight down but also to improve performance dramatically in areas as
運動不僅有助於燃燒卡路里和減輕體重，還可以顯著提高以下方面的表現：

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diverse as concentration, IQ, and muscle endurance (not to mention fertility and sexual performance!). Speak with any of your fit colleagues and ask them why they are so active and they will tell you it is for the feeling they get during and after activity that they keep it up - not to lose weight necessarily.
注意力、智商和肌肉耐力（更不用說生育能力和性能力！）。與您任何健康的同事交談並詢問他們為什麼如此活躍，他們會告訴您他們之所以堅持下去是因為他們在活動期間和之後獲得的感覺 - 不一定是為了減肥。

Go for that same feeling, that wonderful buzz. You will find that anything bothering you before a good walk or a visit to the gym, evaporates within minutes. Exercise makes you think more clearly, it gets your worries into perspective. You can be tied-up in knots over a problem and find yourself laughing it off after a workout. No drink, no drug enables you to do that and still function at the top of your form, but exercise does!
追求同樣的感覺，那種美妙的嗡嗡聲。您會發現，在好好散步或去健身房之前，任何困擾您的事情都會在幾分鐘內消失。運動讓你思考更清晰，讓你更清楚地看待憂慮。你可能會因為某個問題而陷入困境，但在運動後卻發現自己一笑置之。沒有飲料、藥物可以讓你做到這一點並且仍然保持最佳狀態，但運動可以！

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CHAPTER 10
第10章

Presenting Yourself
展現自己

S ooner or later you will have to face the challenge of speaking to an audience. All successful women know that their career progression, to a significant extent, is based upon their exposure. Being seen and heard both inside and outside your organisation helps to increase your profile as well as your prospects.
遲早你將不得不面對向觀眾演講的挑戰。所有成功的女性都知道，她們的職業發展在很大程度上取決於她們的曝光。在組織內部和外部被看到和聽到有助於提高您的形象和前景。

To turn down opportunities to gain visibility is shooting yourself in the career foot. If you find the prospect of public-speaking daunting, take heart from the fact that most professionals are nervous when speaking to an audience.
拒絕獲得知名度的機會無異於搬石頭砸自己的職業生涯。如果您發現公開演講的前景令人畏懼，請放心，大多數專業人士在向觀眾演講時都會感到緊張。

If in real doubt about your ability, or simply interested in improving your techniques, consider taking a good training course; it is one of the best investments you can make to advance your career. The objective of so-called Communications Skills training is not simply to learn how to prepare and deliver a talk but also how to enjoy the experience and to be yourself.
如果對自己的能力確實有疑問，或只是想提升自己的技術，請考慮參加一個好的培訓課程；這是您可以為職業發展做出的最佳投資之一。所謂溝通技巧訓練的目的不僅是學習如何準備和發表演講，還要學習如何享受演講的過程並做你自己。

Although technically you will be giving a presentation on a specific subject, remember what you are also doing is presenting yourself. Within the first three minutes or so of speaking, your audience will decide whether or not they'll bother to listen. That is why so many books and training programmes on presentation skills stress the importance of a good opening. But just as important as what you say and how you say it, is your image.
儘管從技術上講，您將就特定主題進行演示，但請記住您所做的也是展示自己。在演講的前三分鐘左右，你的聽眾將決定是否願意傾聽。這就是為什麼許多關於演講技巧的書籍和培訓計畫都強調良好開場白的重要性。但與你所說的內容和說話的方式同樣重要的是你的形象。

Depending on the size of the presentation or whether or not you are appearing on video or TV, you will need different advice. So let's set the stage for some key presentation situations you might encounter and give you guidelines that can be adapted to any similar situations in which you might find yourseir
根據簡報的大小或您是否出現在影片或電視上，您將需要不同的建議。因此，讓我們為您可能遇到的一些關鍵簡報情況做好準備，並為您提供可適應您可能遇到的任何類似情況的指南。

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THE INTERNAL MEETING, UP TO 15 PEOPLE
內部會議，最多 15 人

A small business presentation might be made at a formal board meeting or in a less formal situation, such as a training session. The two key questions to ask are:
小型企業演示可能會在正式的董事會會議上或在不太正式的情況下（例如培訓課程）進行。要問的兩個關鍵問題是：

What is the purpose of the presentation?
演講的目的是什麼？

Are you there to inform and not invite much participation?
你是來通報訊息而不是邀請太多參與嗎？

Or are you there to present ideas for discussion?
或者您在那裡提出想法供討論？

♦Who is the audience? Internal colleagues? Peers, subordinates, or supervisors? Clients or potential customers? The press? The general public?
❖ 觀眾是誰？內部同事？同事、部屬、還是主管？客戶還是潛在客戶？媒體？普通大眾？

THE FORMAL PRESENTATION
正式演講

When your purpose is primarily to inform your audience and not to elicit discussion you want to project authority - conservatism in your appearance and confidence in your behaviour. Here are some tips to consider:
當你的目的主要是為了告訴你的聽眾而不是引發討論時，你想要表現出權威——你的外表保守，對你的行為充滿信心。以下是一些需要考慮的提示：

What to wear
穿什麼

Think classic. There should be nothing fussy about your appearance. Select the darkest suit you can wear and still look healthy and interesting. Wear a simple blouse underneath. Finish the look with a striking necklace and strong earrings.
認為經典。你的外表不應該有任何挑剔。選擇您可以穿的最深色的西裝，並且看起來仍然健康有趣。下面穿一件簡單的襯衫。用引人注目的項鍊和堅固的耳環來完成造型。

Check the fit of the suit when buttoned, because that is how you must wear it when you give a formal presentation. If you are full-busted or full-figured, be sure the fit is easy and loose.
扣上羈扣後檢查西裝是否合身，因為這是您進行正式演講時必須穿著的方式。如果您胸部豐滿或身材豐滿，請確保寬鬆寬鬆。

Your hair should be well-groomed and not require you to fidget with it constantly. If uncertain about its manageability, use a hairspray on the morning of an important presentation.
你的頭髮應該打理得井井有條，不需要你經常打理它。如果不確定其可管理性，請在重要演示的早晨使用髮膠。

Your body language
你的肢體語言

Your gestures, behaviour and voice need to be as convincing as the words you use. Avoid defensive postures such as holding your hands behind your back, 'hugging' yourself or crossing your arms in front of yourself which only convey your defensiveness and concern about what you are saying.
你的手勢、行為和聲音需要像你使用的語言一樣令人信服。避免採取防禦性姿勢，例如將雙手放在背後、「擁抱」自己或將雙臂交叉在身前，這些姿勢只會表達您的防禦性和對自己所說內容的擔憂。

Keep your body open. If using notes, keep one hand at your side, or use natural hand movements with your palms up. Also, don't let your gestures preach, that is, use a pointing finger to make a point or, if seated at a table, fold your hands and make a steeple with your fingers (which conveys arrogance!).
保持身體開放。如果使用筆記，請將一隻手放在身體兩側，或採用自然的手部動作，手掌向上。另外，不要讓你的手勢說教，也就是說，用手指來表達觀點，或者如果坐在桌子旁，雙手交叉並用手指做一個尖塔（這傳達了傲慢！）。

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Regardless of how serious the subject may be, the occasional smile (not grin) will help you to win acceptance. Use eye contact with everyone in the room, regularly and deliberately, as if you are speaking to each person directly. And don't avoid eye contact with any detractors. Meeting them head on will show you are confident and may even stifle other possible challenges.
無論話題有多嚴肅，偶爾的微笑（不是咧嘴笑）都會幫助你贏得接受。定期、有意識地與房間裡的每個人進行眼神交流，就好像您直接與每個人交談一樣。並且不要避免與任何批評者目光接觸。與他們正面交鋒將表明你有信心，甚至可能抑制其他可能的挑戰。

Sending the wrong signals Formal presentations demand authority dressing. A light-pink suit and floral blouse lack authority. Always button your jacket before presenting to keep the attention on your face. If you wear glasses and present frequently, get non-reflective lenses
發出錯誤的訊號正式的演講需要權威的穿著。淺粉紅色的西裝和碎花襯衫缺乏權威感。演講前務必扣好夾克紐扣，以將注意力集中在您的臉上。如果您戴眼鏡並經常出席，請配戴不反光鏡片

You will hold attention better and look more credi ble in a high-confidence colour combination from your personal palette (see Chapter 4) like navy and ivory, and an elegant style. Significant, never fussy, accessories complete the professional polish
透過使用您個人調色板（請參閱第 4 章）中的高置信度顏色組合（如海軍藍和象牙色）以及優雅的風格，您將更好地吸引註意力，看起來更可信。重要但絕不挑剔的配件完成了專業的打磨

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Make sure your voice is convincing; end all your declarations in a low tone, as if what you have said is a statement of fact.
確保你的聲音令人信服；低聲結束你所有的聲明，就好像你所說的事實一樣。

THE INFORMAL PRESENTATION
非正式的介紹

In a more relaxed environment or when you want people to open up and participate you require to show less authority in dress and behaviour, but more personality and selfless consideration of others' opinions. A training seminar, staff meeting or brainstorming session would be examples. For these, appear open, welcoming. Here's what to consider:
在更輕鬆的環境中，或者當您希望人們敞開心扉並參與時，您需要在著裝和行為上表現出更少的權威，但需要更多的個性和對他人意見的無私考慮。例如，培訓研討會、員工會議或腦力激盪會議。對於這些，要顯得開放、熱情。以下是需要考慮的事項：

What to wear
穿什麼

Select less severe colours and styles. So rather than the navy suit (the matching jacket and skirt, so appropriate for a formal presentation), try a lighter neutral, perhaps a taupe jacket over a red or turquoise dress; or team the jacket with a patterned skirt. Here's where you can have more freedom with colours you enjoy wearing. But remember that you are still conducting the meeting and you need to be pleasing to watch. Don't bombard your audience with excessive patterns or distracting features such as a scarf that slides around, or wisps of hair straying in your face which need constant fixing.
選擇較不嚴重的顏色和款式。因此，不要嘗試海軍藍套裝（配套的夾克和裙子，非常適合正式場合），而是嘗試較淺的中性色，也許是灰褐色夾克搭配紅色或綠松石色連身裙；或將夾克與圖案半身裙搭配。在這裡，您可以更自由地選擇自己喜歡的穿著顏色。但請記住，您仍在主持會議，您需要保持愉悅的觀看狀態。不要用過多的圖案或分散注意力的特徵轟炸你的觀眾，例如滑動的圍巾，或需要不斷整理的一縷頭髮散落在你的臉上。

Your body language
你的肢體語言

You also need to behave differently than when in more formal situations. Your questions will be open to elicit discussion; so, too, should be your gestures. Don't stand rigid, glued to one spot at the head of the table. Move around, extend your hand to invite people to speak. Touch people on the shoulder or arm, if appropriate, to reinforce what they have said or to bring them into the discussion. Sit down from time to time when others are speaking to 'give them the floor', to signal that what they are contributing merits everyone's attention, including yours.
您還需要採取與在更正式的場合不同的行為。您的問題將開放以引發討論；你的手勢也應該如此。不要僵硬地站立，黏在桌子頭部的一個位置。四處走動，伸出手邀請人們發言。如果合適的話，觸摸人們的肩膀或手臂，以強化他們所說的話或讓他們參與討論。當其他人發言時，不時坐下來“讓他們發言”，以表明他們所做的貢獻值得每個人的關注，包括你的關注。

Be an active listener when others are speaking. Keep your eyes on them as if what they are saying is vital and compelling. Take notes and reiterate key points that the participants make. Nod your head when you agree. When you don't, try to take it on board without showing your feelings. Allow others to rebuff contrary viewpoints from time to time, rather than always being the one to defend or take issue with difficult points.
當別人說話時，成為積極的傾聽者。密切關注他們，就好像他們所說的話至關重要且引人注目。記筆記並重申參與者提出的要點。當你同意的時候就點頭。如果你不這樣做，試著接受它，但不要表現出你的感受。允許他人不時拒絕相反的觀點，而不是總是為困難辯護或提出異議。

The ability to run an informal meeting is essential to building your reputation and maintaining a rapport among your colleagues, subordinates and managers. Develop a style that makes everyone feel good about participating while still maintaining distinction as the woman at the helm.
召開非正式會議的能力對於建立您的聲譽以及維持同事、下屬和經理之間的融洽關係至關重要。培養一種讓每個人都樂於參與的風格，同時仍保持作為女性掌舵者的獨特地位。

URBAN COUNCIL PUBLIC LIBRARIES
市議會公共圖書館

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展現自己

LARGE AUDIENCE PRESENTATIONS
大型觀眾示範

Speaking to a group of over 15 people becomes a performance. In addition to being a capable and talented professional you must now move into the area of entertainment. No, I am not recommending tedious jokes as the way to enliven a presentation. But you do need to capture your audience and hold its attention not only with your speech but also with your image. When a great package holds a terrific product you've got a winning combination. And whether you are a sales representative or selling yourself and your talents, the rules are the same.
對 15 人以上的群體演講就變成了一場表演。除了成為一名有能力、有才華的專業人士之外，您現在還必須進入娛樂領域。不，我不推薦用乏味的笑話來使演示活躍起來。但你確實需要不僅透過你的演講而且透過你的形象來吸引觀眾並吸引他們的注意力。當一個出色的包裝包含一個出色的產品時，您就獲得了一個成功的組合。無論您是銷售代表還是推銷自己和您的才能，規則都是相同的。

YOU ARE THE KEY PROP
你是關鍵支柱

A good presentation to a large audience is never just verbal; it always requires good visual aids. Any audience today expects images to help convey the messages. On average, they will have seen two hours of television a day, have been bombarded with slick commercial advertising while driving to work, read newspapers and business material, and have probably taken a presentation course impressing upon them the importance of visual aids! Props are needed to enliven a large presentation as well as to help organise and enhance your message. But always remember that your Number One Prop is yourself.
向大量觀眾進行的精彩演講絕不僅僅是口頭上的；它總是需要良好的視覺輔助工具。今天的任何觀眾都希望圖像能夠幫助傳達訊息。平均而言，他們每天看兩個小時的電視，在開車上班時受到華而不實的商業廣告的轟炸，閱讀報紙和商業材料，並且可能參加了演示課程，讓他們深刻認識到視覺教具的重要性！需要道具來使大型演示活躍起來，並幫助組織和增強您的訊息。但永遠記住，你的第一支柱是你自己。

For a large audience presentation you need to think theatre: project your voice, preferably via a microphone and enlarge your gestures to correlate with the size of your audience. But additionally you need to draw attention to yourself and help hold the audience's gaze through your appearance.
對於大型觀眾的演示，您需要考慮戲劇：最好透過麥克風投射您的聲音，並放大您的手勢以與觀眾人數相關。但此外，你還需要吸引別人的注意力，並透過你的外表來吸引觀眾的目光。

You also need to do a lot of homework. I am not referring to your speech here, but the logistics of the presentation: without knowing in advance the room layout, staging, background, lighting, etc., your appearance may fail completely.
你還需要做很多功課。我這裡指的不是你的演講，而是演講的後勤：如果事先不知道房間佈置、舞台、背景、燈光等，你的表現可能會完全失敗。

ROOM LAYOUT
房間佈局

- It's essential to learn the layout of the room to discern how visible you'll be to the majority of the audience. If speaking from the floor at the same level as your audience - be sure you are tall enough to be seen. Women need to watch this in particular. I'm only 5ft 3inches and regularly insist on having a platform to speak from so people can see all of me. Otherwise, you simply become a talking head, which hardly provides enough visual animation to keep your audience's gaze.
- 了解房間的佈局對於了解您對大多數觀眾的可見度至關重要。如果在與觀眾相同的高度上講話，請確保您的高度足以被看到。女性尤其需要注意這一點。我只有 5 英尺 3 英寸，但經常堅持有一個發言平台，以便人們可以看到我的全部。否則，你只會成為一個會說話的人，幾乎無法提供足夠的視覺動畫來吸引觀眾的目光。

Once I didn't have the opportunity to see a location for an important presentation The dining room was packed and the head table, where I
有一次我沒有機會看到一個重要演講的地點，餐廳裡擠滿了人，主桌，我在那裡

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was seated, was in front and under poor light. Flanked by people who towered over me, whose own presentations went off fine, I knew I was doomed when it came time to speak. Then, just as I was being introduced I noticed a central stair well leading to the dining room. With outward calm I made my way up to the top of the stairs, asked everyone to adjust their seats and spoke from there. Despite having the after dinner ‘graveyard slot', I not only succeeded in really grabbing their attention, but managed to hold it for most of the time! But try to avoid such last minute manoeuvres by seeing the venue beforehand, whenever possible.
坐在前面，光線昏暗。身邊都是比我高的人，他們自己的演講也很順利，當我要發言的時候，我知道我注定要失敗。然後，正當我被介紹時，我注意到有一個通往餐廳的中央樓梯井。我表面上很平靜，走到樓梯頂上，請大家調整座位，然後從那裡講話。儘管有飯後的“墓地槽”，我不僅成功地真正吸引了他們的注意力，而且在大部分時間裡都成功地抓住了他們的注意力！但只要有可能，請提前查看場地，盡量避免這種最後一刻的操作。

STAGING
分期

At formal conferences, you can expect to be on stage either seated at a table or introduced and left at a lectern, from which you deliver your speech. In either event, be sure that your clothes don't let you down.
在正式會議上，您可能會出現在講台上，要么坐在桌子旁，要么被介紹並留在講台上，然後在講台上發表演講。無論哪種情況，請確保您的衣服不會讓您失望。

Watch that your skirt doesn't ride-up and that it's comfortable enough to sit with your knees together and feet both to one side. If you must cross your legs do so only at the ankles.
注意你的裙子不會捲起來，膝蓋併攏、雙腳放在一邊坐起來夠舒服。如果必須交叉雙腿，則僅在腳踝處交叉。

At the podium or lectern make sure your entire face, at least, is seen. Ideally, you should be visible down to your bust, to hold your audience's attention.
在講台或講台上，至少確保你的整個臉都能被看見。理想情況下，您的胸部應該清晰可見，以吸引觀眾的注意。

Formal, prepared speeches usually put audiences to sleep unless they are under 10 minutes in duration. If you don't have the time to commit your talk to memory, can't 'wing-it' with cue-cards or an outline, and find an autocue nerve-wracking, then break the presentation up at points which allow you to move slightly away from the lectern (assuming the microphone can still pick you up) and speak seemingly extemporaneously. Aim to be seen in full, once or twice, to break up the monotony of being a talking head.
正式的、準備好的演講通常會讓聽眾昏昏欲睡，除非持續時間不超過 10 分鐘。如果你沒有時間記住你的演講，無法用提示卡或大綱“即興發揮”，並且發現自動提示令人傷腦筋，那麼可以在可以讓你稍微遠離講台（假設麥克風仍然可以拾取您的聲音）並看似即興發言。力求讓別人完整地看到一兩次，以打破成為一個說話的人的單調。

Try making your introduction away from the lectern, in a more natural way, to impress the audience with your confidence and attract them with your appearance. Then retreat to the lectern to give your speech. At the end, come back and present yourself to the audience with a closing remark.
嘗試在講台之外以更自然的方式進行介紹，用您的自信給觀眾留下深刻的印象，並用您的外表吸引他們。然後退到講台上發表演說。最後，回來向觀眾展示自己並發表結束語。

BACKGROUND
背景

Essential to ensuring that you stand out and are clearly seen during a large platform presentation is to find out the colour of the backdrop. Often, this consists of very dark curtains and if you are standing in front in a dark outfit you simply disappear. Aim to dress in complementary contrast to your backdrop.
要確保您在大型平台演示中脫穎而出並被清晰地看到，至關重要的是找出背景的顏色。通常，這由非常暗的窗簾組成，如果你穿著深色衣服站在前面，你就會消失。著裝的目標是與背景形成互補的對比。

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LIGHTING
燈光

It might seem an obvious point that you need a spotlight on you to be seen, but how often have you noticed someone speaking in almost total darkness, particularly when delivering a slide presentation. Those little lectern lights which simply help you read your notes aren't enough. You need to be well-lit the entire time, if you are to hold your audience's attention.
您需要聚光燈照射才能讓別人看到您，這似乎是顯而易見的一點，但您是否經常注意到有人在幾乎完全黑暗的情況下講話，尤其是在進行幻燈片演示時。那些僅僅幫助您閱讀筆記的小講檯燈是不夠的。如果你想吸引觀眾的注意力，就需要始終保持良好的照明。

Lighting comes in a variety of blue and yellow tones. If speaking somewhere other than at a modern business conference facility, check out what kind of lights they use. If the lights are very blue and you are in a navy suit and blue shirt you'll fade away. If the lighting is extreme, either very blue or very yellow, be sure you balance your suit and shirt to contrast with them. Stage technicians are often very helpful.
燈光有各種藍色和黃色色調。如果在現代商務會議設施以外的地方講話，請檢查他們使用哪種燈光。如果燈光很藍，而你穿著海軍藍西裝和藍色襯衫，你就會消失。如果光線非常強烈，無論是非常藍色還是非常黃色，請務必平衡您的西裝和襯衫以與之形成對比。舞台技術人員通常非常有幫助。

Don't allow your visual aids to dominate your platform. Be sure to have a spotlight on you when using slides
不要讓視覺輔助工具主宰你的平台。使用投影片時請確保聚光燈照射在您身上

WHAT TO WEAR
穿什麼

Remember that, unlike at the small presentation, the large audience is theatre. Hence, you need to think of the impact of your 'costume'.
請記住，與小型演示不同，大量觀眾是戲劇。因此，您需要考慮“服裝”的影響。

For a large presentation, your best red will project confidence (even if your knees are banging) and hold the audience's attention. Your makeup needs to be stronger and more defined than usual and if wearing red, always wear a matching or toning red lipstick. Earrings are the essential accessory. Be sure your hair is controlled, off your face and perfectly smooth. If it is below shoulder-length, put it up in an elegant French plait or twist.
對於大型演示，最好的紅色會表現出自信（即使你的膝蓋在撞擊）並吸引觀眾的注意力。你的妝容需要比平常更濃烈、更清晰，如果你穿紅色，一定要塗上配套或調色的紅色唇膏。耳環是必備的配件。確保你的頭髮受到控制，遠離臉部並且完全光滑。如果長度低於肩部，請將其編成優雅的法式辮子或麻花辮。

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TIPS ON PRESENTING YOURSELF
自我展現的技巧

◆ Empty all your pockets so your suit lies flat and there are no unseemly bulges.
◆ 清空所有口袋，使西裝平放，沒有不合時宜的凸起。

◆ Button up your jacket, otherwise the eyes will focus on your midriff, perhaps not your most flattering point.
◆ 扣上外套的釦子，否則人們的目光會集中在你的腹部，這也許不是你最討人喜歡的地方。

◆ Avoid fussy details, like dangling or bright jewellery.
◆ 避免繁瑣的細節，例如懸掛或明亮的珠寶。

◆ Draw the attention to your face. Keep dark colours or neutrals below waist level and don't draw attention to your legs or shoes with light colours.
◆ 將注意力吸引到您的臉上。將深色或中性色保持在腰部以下，不要用淺色吸引人們對腿或鞋子的注意。

◆ Avoid wearing glasses, if possible. If they are needed, then be sure that your eyes are seen at the centre of the lens (no half glasses). And the glasses will be best if given a non-reflective treatment to prevent the 'light spot' glare.
◆ 盡量避免戴眼鏡。如果需要，請確保您的眼睛位於鏡片的中心（無半框眼鏡）。如果眼鏡經過非反光處理以防止「光點」眩光，效果會更好。

Check beforehand that your hair is well groomed. Spray any unruly and stray hairs into place.
事先檢查一下你的頭髮是否整齊。將任何不規則和散亂的毛髮噴灑到位。

Wear stronger make-up than normal, paying specific attention to defining your eyes (with liner, mascara and combed brows), and emphasise your lips. Use a lip-liner before applying your lipstick to give definition and help the lipstick to last. Powder your face liberally with translucent powder to minimise shining, and press it lightly but firmly into your foundation. Avoid a too-powdered look.
化比平常更濃的妝，特別注意勾勒出你的眼睛（用眼線、睫毛膏和梳理好的眉毛），並強調你的嘴唇。在塗口紅之前先用唇線筆勾勒輪廓並幫助口紅持久。在臉上塗抹大量半透明粉末，以盡量減少光澤，然後輕輕但牢固地將其壓入粉底中。避免過於粉粉的外觀。

THE IMAGE OF YOUR VOICE
你聲音的形象

The success of many politicians, actors and business-people can to some extent be attributed to the quality of their voices. Think for a minute of the voices you admire. The radio gives us many opportunities to hear some splendid examples with whom we are all familiar.
許多政治家、演員和商界人士的成功在某種程度上可以歸功於他們的聲音品質。想一想您欣賞的聲音。廣播讓我們有很多機會聽到一些我們都熟悉的精彩例子。

When I mention the names of some famous people you can immediately hear them: Eddie Murphy, Her Majesty the Queen, the late Marilyn Monroe and Richard Burton, TV presenter Oprah Winfrey. Their voices are distinctive - and integral to their personalities. If Richard Burton had had John Major's voice would he have been such a successful actor? Would Mr Major's political fortunes be different if he could speak to us like Richard Burton? Would Marilyn Monroe have been as sexy with Hillary Clinton's voice?
當我提到一些名人的名字時，你可以立即聽到他們的名字：艾迪墨菲、女王陛下、已故的瑪麗蓮夢露和理查德伯頓、電視節目主持人奧普拉‧溫弗瑞。他們的聲音與眾不同，並且與他們的個性密不可分。如果理查波頓擁有約翰梅傑的聲音，他會成為如此成功的演員嗎？如果梅傑先生能像理查伯頓一樣對我們說話，他的政治命運會有所不同嗎？瑪麗蓮夢露會因為希拉蕊柯林頓的聲音而性感嗎？

What impression does your voice leave with other people? This is an
你的聲音給別人甚麼印象？這是一個

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important consideration because your voice accounts for 38 per cent of the impression you make on people; 55 per cent depends on how you look and behave and only 7 per cent on what you are saying. I'm not suggesting, however, that if you look, act and sound wonderful you can speak rubbish. Of course not. Your words are vital. But in business and politics we have to assume you know what you are talking about (or someone can back you up). So, it becomes more a question of how you sell your message. If you can't sell your ideas you can't succeed in business or public life.
重要的考慮因素，因為你的聲音佔你給人留下的印象的 38%； 55% 取決於你的外表和行為，只有 7% 取決於你所說的話。然而，我並不是說，如果你看起來、行為和聽起來都很棒，你就可以說垃圾話。當然不是。你的話至關重要。但在商業和政治中，我們必須假設你知道你在說什麼（或有人可以支持你）。因此，問題更多的是如何推銷你的資訊。如果你不能推銷你的想法，你就無法在商業或公共生活中取得成功。

A good voice enhances your power of persuasion, in addition to keeping your audience's attention when you speak. A bad voice at best bores and at worst irritates, undermining the otherwise favourable image that you have worked so hard to develop.
良好的聲音不僅可以在演講時吸引聽眾的注意力，還可以增強您的說服力。不好的聲音往好裡說是令人厭煩，往壞裡說是令人惱怒，破壞你辛苦建立起來的良好形象。

IS YOUR VOICE IN-TUNE?
你的聲音準嗎？

Think of your own voice. If any of the following problems sound familiar when you get up and speak, then some work is required to improve your voice.
想想你自己的聲音。如果當您站起來說話時，以下任何問題聽起來很熟悉，那麼您需要做一些工作來改善您的聲音。

◆ You feel unnatural when speaking and hear a different voice, usually higher than your normal conversational tone.
◆ 您說話時感覺不自然，並聽到不同的聲音，通常高於正常對話的語氣。

◆ You're an adult but your voice sounds adolescent. Sometimes people ring you at home and ask to speak to your mummy.
◆ 你已經是成年人了，但你的聲音聽起來還很青春期。有時人們會打電話給你，要求與你的媽媽通話。

People ask you to 'speak up', even when you are speaking in only a small gathering.
人們要求您“大聲說出來”，即使您只是在小型聚會上發言。

◆ You use 'fillers' when you speak: 'um', 'right', 'you know', 'and so forth'.
◆ 說話時使用「填充詞」：「嗯」、「對」、「你知道」、「等等」。

◆ You sound flat when speaking through a microphone.
◆ 透過麥克風講話時聲音平淡。

Your voice gets tired and throat hurts after speaking for 15 or 20 minutes.
說話 15 或 20 分鐘後，您的聲音會變得疲倦，喉嚨會疼痛。

◆ You have a strong regional accent not widely understood. People often say, 'excuse me, could you repeat that?'
◆ 您有濃重的當地口音，但未被廣泛理解。人們常說：“對不起，你能再說一遍嗎？”

◆ You finish sentences high, as if you are asking a question when you are actually stating a fact.
◆ 你把句子說得很高，就好像你在提出一個問題，而實際上你是在陳述一個事實。

◆ You don't sound authoritative.
◆ 你聽起來不太有權威。

◆ You simply don't like the sound of your voice!
◆ 你根本不喜歡你的聲音！

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IMPROVING YOUR VOICE
改善你的聲音

First, be assured that you are not condemned for life to having an indifferent or poor voice. You can do something about it.
首先，請放心，您不會終生注定擁有冷漠或糟糕的聲音。你可以做點什麼。

Your voice is mainly conditioned by your experience: how and where you grew up, where your parents were from, the schools you attended, the children you hung around with. As an adult, other influences will have come into play: how much you have travelled, your colleagues at work and how they speak, the programmes you watch on television or listen to on the radio, and your partner's voice.
你的聲音主要取決於你的經驗：你如何長大、在哪裡長大、你的父母來自哪裡、你就讀過的學校、和你在一起的孩子。作為一個成年人，其他的影響也會發揮作用：你旅行了多少次，你的同事和他們說話的方式，你在電視上觀看或在廣播中收聽的節目，以及你伴侶的聲音。

Before reaching for the trade phone directory to find a speech therapist, there are several things you can do on your own to improve your voice that don't cost anything. Here's where to start.
在使用行業電話簿尋找語言治療師之前，您可以自己做一些事情來改善您的聲音，而無需花費任何費用。從這裡開始。

◆ Ask your friends and closest colleagues what they like about your voice and what they find irritating. Tell them how you would like to sound. For example, you might wish that your voice could be described as: clear, rich, authoritative, lively, pleasing, reassuring, confident, friendly, intelligent, natural.
◆ 詢問你的朋友和最親密的同事，他們喜歡你的聲音的哪些方面以及他們覺得哪些方面令人惱火。告訴他們你希望聽起來如何。例如，您可能希望您的聲音可以被描述為：清晰、豐富、權威、活潑、令人愉悅、令人放心、自信、友好、聰明、自然。

◆ Practise reading out loud, trying to be more expressive and improve your pronunciation, pace and modulation.
◆ 練習大聲朗讀，努力提升表現力並提升發音、語速和抑揚頓挫。

◆ If possible, read to children. They are the most honest audience you will ever get. If you keep their attention you are doing well. If they start to fidget and stop listening, you've lost. Ask them if they like your voice and, whether you hear an enthusiastic 'Yes', or a definite 'No', ask them why.
◆ 如果可能的話，請為孩子讀書。他們是你所能得到的最誠實的觀眾。如果你能引起他們的注意，你就做得很好。如果他們開始坐立不安並且不再傾聽，那麼你就輸了。詢問他們是否喜歡你的聲音，無論你是否聽到熱情的“是”或明確的“不”，詢問他們為什麼。

◆ Record your voice on to a tape recorder. Do short 3 minute 'speeches', pretending you are being interviewed on the radio on something about which you can speak off the cuff, such as the trip to work this morning; what you enjoyed about a recent film; describing your favourite restaurant. Listen carefully to the playback and aim to improve the next recording by what you learned on previous ones.
◆ 將您的聲音錄製到錄音機上。做 3 分鐘的簡短“演講”，假裝你正在接受廣播採訪，談論一些你可以即興發言的事情，比如今天早上上班的事；您對最近的一部電影感到滿意嗎？描述你最喜歡的餐廳。仔細聆聽回放，並根據您在先前的錄音中學到的知識來改進下一個錄音。

Don't erase the tape. Keep it as a record to monitor your progress. The sort of faults you can easily detect yourself are those of unattractive pitch, ums and ahs, lack of variety in pace of delivery, lack of clarity.
不要擦除磁帶。將其作為記錄以監控您的進度。你自己很容易發現的錯誤包括那些沒有吸引力的音調、嗯和啊、交付節奏缺乏變化、缺乏清晰度。

PREPARING YOUR VOICE FOR A PRESENTATION
為演講做好準備

So, you have worked to improve your voice and it's now time actually to get up and speak. Most presenters get nervous, so you are not alone.
所以，你已經努力改善你的聲音，現在是時候真正站起來說話了。大多數演講者都會感到緊張，所以你並不孤單。

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展現自己

Here's what you need to do to control your nerves and allow your voice to project as well as possible.
您需要採取以下措施來控制自己的神經並盡可能地表達自己的聲音。

Relax
放鬆

The adrenalin is pumping through your body as you wait for your turn to speak. This is when you can tense-up from head to toe. If your body tenses you can bet that your throat seizes up as well.
當您等待發言時，腎上腺素會在您的身體中泵動。這是你從頭到腳都緊張的時候。如果你的身體緊張，你的喉嚨一定也會卡住。

To avoid this, try to exercise the night before, or better still the morning of a big presentation. This should include a good workout, say, either running, swimming or cycling, and some stretching exercises. Before you speak, go for a brisk walk wherever you can; around the block, up and down a few flights of stairs, through the lobby of the conference centre. Brisk movement before you begin speaking allows the adrenalin to release throughout your body rather than tense up your muscles making you paralytic. But don't get so carried away that you arrive back breathless!
為了避免這種情況，請嘗試在前一天晚上鍛鍊身體，或者最好是在大型演講的早晨鍛鍊身體。這應該包括良好的鍛煉，例如跑步、游泳或騎自行車，以及一些伸展運動。說話之前，盡可能快步走一走；繞著街區，上下幾層樓梯，穿過會議中心的大廳。開始說話之前輕快的運動可以讓腎上腺素釋放到全身，而不是使肌肉緊張癱瘓。但不要太得意忘形，以致你氣喘吁籲地回來！

Breath control
呼吸控制

You might recall a previous occasion when you had to speak, or were about to when breathing became very difficult, strange and somewhat scary. You can never perform well if that happens, because your breathing controls the oxygen supply to your blood, which feeds your brain, which I know you appreciate - must be engaged for you to deliver your presentation. Alas, you can't store up oxygen from your morning jog or your brisk walk before you go on. You've got to keep it flowing if you, your body and your brain are going to give a successful performance.
您可能會記得以前有一次當您必須說話或正要說話時，呼吸變得非常困難、奇怪並且有些可怕。如果發生這種情況，你永遠無法表現良好，因為你的呼吸控制著血液的氧氣供應，而血液為你的大腦提供營養，我知道你很欣賞這一點——你必須投入精力才能進行演講。可惜的是，在繼續之前，你無法透過晨跑或快步儲存氧氣。如果你、你的身體和你的大腦想要成功的表演，你就必須保持流暢。

When your nerves get the better of you, your breathing gets shallow, i.e. restricted to the top of your lungs. This kind of breathing is exhausting, forces you to gasp when you speak and causes the pitch of your voice to rise an octave into a shrill, high pitch – something no woman wants. So bear in mind the following tips:
當你的神經變得更好時，你的呼吸就會變淺，也就是僅限於肺的頂部。這種呼吸方式讓人筋疲力盡，說話時會迫使你喘氣，並導致你的音調升高八度，變成尖銳的高音調——這是沒有女人想要的。因此請記住以下提示：

Start by centring your body. If standing, balance yourself evenly on both feet. This aligns your body and allows your vocal cords to work in harmony with your diaphragm and lungs.
首先將身體集中在中心。如果站立，請用雙腳保持平衡。這可以調整您的身體，讓您的聲帶與橫膈膜和肺部協調工作。

◆ Breathe deeply and slowly. Aim to fill the bottom of your lungs first, so your tummy expands. To enable the full use of your powerful and all-important diaphragmatic muscle, don't wear a tight belt or a tight skirt. Let the air rise from the lower to the middle, then upper part of the lungs. You want to feel the air enter your chest almost as if it is blowing up through your throat to your voice.
◆ 緩慢地深呼吸。首先要填滿肺部底部，這樣你的肚子就會擴張。為了充分利用強壯而重要的膈肌，不要繫緊腰帶或緊身裙。讓空氣從肺部的下部上升到中部，然後上升到肺部的上部。你想要感覺空氣進入你的胸部，就像它透過你的喉嚨吹到你的聲音中一樣。

◆ Take regular, relaxed breaths as you speak. Always breathe in and
◆ 說話時保持規律、放鬆的呼吸。始終吸氣並

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展現自己

wait until you are exhaling to begin speaking. Your voice will be deeper and sound more controlled. (Speaking at the beginning of the exhale, or even at the top of the inhale, makes you sound desperate and causes you to gasp. This technique is particularly important when you are being questioned: waiting for the exhale means there will be a natural pauses, for a fleeting few seconds. But the sound that comes out is well worth waiting for, more confident and assured.
等到你呼氣時才開始說話。你的聲音會更低沉，聽起來更有控制力。（在呼氣開始時說話，甚至在吸氣頂部說話，會讓你聽起來絕望並導致你喘氣。當你被詢問時，這個技巧尤其重要：等待呼氣意味著會有自然的停頓，短暫的幾秒鐘，但發出的聲音非常值得等待，更加自信和放心。

Lubricate your vocal cords
潤滑你的聲帶

Beforehand avoid hot stimulants like tea or coffee especially with milk. Other drinks that don't help are fizzy or very cold ones. It's best to lubricate your voice with warm water containing a slice of lemon or just plain still water (room temperature).
事先避免熱刺激物，如茶或咖啡，尤其是牛奶。其他無濟於事的飲料是碳酸飲料或非常冷的飲料。最好用含有一片檸檬的溫水或普通的靜水（室溫）來潤滑你的聲音。

◆ If your voice dries up while you are speaking and no water is available, take a pause and pick up a visual aid or your notes, whatever, seizing the opportunities to chew on your tongue for a few seconds. This will get the saliva going and help to lubricate your throat. But this is a measure to resort to in desperation. You are in charge of the success of your presentation, so should never go on without water readily to hand.
◆ 如果說話時聲音乾澀，而且又沒有水，請暫停一下，拿起視覺教具或筆記等，抓住機會咀嚼幾秒鐘。這將使唾液流動並有助於潤滑喉嚨。但這是無奈之下才採取的措施。您的演講成功與否由您負責，因此切勿在沒有水的情況下繼續進行。

CONSULT THE EXPERTS
諮詢專家

If after assiduously practising as recommended earlier, and making your first speeches, you still feel that your voice is hurting your image, consult a good speech therapist. A trained voice coach, speech pathologist or drama coach can assess your problems and recommend specific remedies to help you. Remember that your voice is worth almost 40 per cent of the impact you make, so don't allow yours to let you down unnecessarily.
如果您按照先前的建議努力練習並進行第一次演講後，您仍然覺得自己的聲音有損您的形象，請諮詢優秀的語言治療師。訓練有素的語音教練、語言病理學家或戲劇教練可以評估您的問題並推薦具體的補救措施來幫助您。請記住，您的聲音幾乎佔您所產生影響的 40%，因此不要讓您的聲音不必要地讓您失望。

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CHAPTER 11
第11章

Your the
你的

Image across Table
整個桌子的圖像

M eetings are a regular opportunity to present yourself, show what you are worth to superiors and peers in business. Although probably half of them are a complete waste of everyone's time, meetings are how most business gets conducted. Whether you are a participant or the chairperson, how you perform is critical to your career advancement.
會議是向上級和同事展現自己、展現自己價值的定期機會。儘管其中可能有一半的會議完全浪費了每個人的時間，但會議是大多數業務的進行方式。無論您是參與者還是主席，您的表現對於您的職業發展至關重要。

In meetings you reveal a lot about yourself and your potential. You show if you have leadership skills, interpersonal skills, communication skills, presentation skills, are on top of your job, can be trusted and relied upon.
在會議中，你可以展示很多關於你自己和你的潛力的資訊。您表現出您是否具有領導能力、人際交往能力、溝通能力、表達能力、是否在工作中處於領先地位、是否值得信任和依賴。

Reflect on the regular meetings you attend. Who amongst your colleagues is always very effective? Do they approach every meeting in the same way? If So, what can you learn from them?
反思您參加的例行會議。你的同事誰總是非常有效率？他們每次會議的方式都一樣嗎？如果是，你能從他們身上學到什麼？

GROUP MEETINGS
小組會議

These can take many forms from regular weekly meetings with subordinates to high-powered, demanding Board meetings - where you may be taking the chair or making your mark as an up and coming new participant. Let's take a look at what you can expect, and need to be prepared for, if you are to be seen at your best.
這些形式可以採取多種形式，從與下屬定期舉行的每週會議到高層、要求嚴格的董事會會議——您可能會擔任主席，也可能會成為一名嶄露頭角的新參與者。讓我們來看看如果你想讓別人看到你最好的一面，你可以期待什麼，需要做什麼準備。

AS A PARTICIPANT
作為參與者

When you are invited to attend a meeting, make sure you find out the objectives of the chairperson, to help you prepare. Remember, whenever a group is called to discuss one or several issues that means that one indi-
當您受邀參加會議時，請務必了解主席的目標，以幫助您做好準備。請記住，每當一個小組被召集來討論一個或多個問題時，就意味著其中一個人

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您在桌上的形象

vidual doesn't have the responsibility to sort things out. Hence, your responsibility in a meeting is shared. You are all individuals contributing different expertise, but in the end must agree on collective solutions. If you play to win or score on points only important to yourself you will become resented and might eventually be excluded from meetings, and once you are no longer at the centre of policy and decision-making, your position will become vulnerable.
vidual 沒有責任解決問題。因此，你們在會議中的責任是共同承擔的。你們都是貢獻不同專業知識的個人，但最終必須就集體解決方案達成一致。如果你為了取勝或得分只對自己重要，你會被怨恨，最終可能被排除在會議之外，一旦你不再處於政策和決策的中心，你的地位就會變得脆弱。

Never expect to succeed in a meeting ‘on a wing and a prayer'. Preparation is essential. Even if you won't necessarily be called upon to present, swot up on as many issues as possible so that you can contribute. Whenever possible, and without overdoing it, always try to state your views, or ask an intelligent question. Sometimes the chair is very rigid and controls participation, but for normal staff meetings, brainstorming sessions, etc. which make up most of your meetings, try to be actively involved.
永遠不要指望「靠著翅膀和祈禱」就能成功舉行會議。準備工作至關重要。即使您不一定會被要求發言，也要盡可能討論問題，以便做出貢獻。只要有可能，在不過分的情況下，總是試著表達你的觀點，或提出一個明智的問題。有時，主席非常嚴格並控制參與，但對於建立大部分會議的正常員工會議、腦力激盪會議等，請嘗試積極參與。

WITH SUBORDINATES
與下屬

Be supportive and encouraging. Supply everyone with an agenda in advance or, if you call the meeting at short notice, let them know its purpose so that they can organise their thoughts and papers ahead of time.
支持和鼓勵。提前向每個人提供議程，或者，如果您在短時間內召開會議，請讓他們知道會議的目的，以便他們可以提前組織自己的想法和文件。

Resist the temptation to finish their sentences or criticise anyone on a personal level, however great the temptation. If you shoot down one the rest will clam-up and you'll get no positive response.
抵抗住完成句子或在個人層面上批評任何人的誘惑，無論誘惑有多大。如果你擊落其中一架，其餘的都會保持沉默，你不會得到任何正面的回應。

Have someone take minutes or at least note decisions taken and the
讓某人做會議記錄或至少記下所做的決定和

action points requiring follow-up. Send the minutes out within 24 hours of the meeting, noting exactly who is responsible for following up what. If the purpose of the meeting is to move a project forward or to get things done, establish a timetable or a date for the next meeting so everyone knows what will be expected of them.
需要跟進的行動要點。在會議結束後 24 小時內發送會議紀錄，準確註明誰負責跟進什麼內容。如果會議的目的是推進專案或完成工作，請為下次會議制定時間表或日期，以便每個人都知道對他們的期望。

WITH PEERS
與同行

Your aim should be seen as collegial but also to earn authority as a leader among equals. For example, the boss will eventually need to find out what the group is thinking, so offer to write up the minutes and submit them to him on behalf of the group.
你的目標應該是合議的，但也應該贏得作為平等領導者的權威。例如，老闆最終需要了解團隊的想法，因此可以提出寫下會議記錄並代表團隊提交給他。

If an issue on the agenda is yours and central to your interests, don't leave it until the meeting takes place to win agreement. Lobby key people ahead of time; be seen as open to discuss the potential weakness of your proposal, answering as objectively as possible. Even if you are feeling
如果議程上的某個問題是您的問題並且對您的利益至關重要，請不要等到會議召開以達成一致為止。提前遊說關鍵人物；被視為願意討論您提案的潛在弱點，並儘可能客觀地回答。即使你感覺

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展現自己

emotional about an objection, never show it. Your detractors will leap on you like a wounded rabbit if they sense a weakness. Instead, keep summarising the benefits of your views and why your proposal meets the objectives set.
對反對意見感到情緒化，但不要表現出來。如果你的批評者感覺到你的弱點，他們就會像受傷的兔子一樣撲向你。相反，不斷總結您的觀點的好處以及為什麼您的提案符合既定目標。

WITH SUPERVISORS
與主管

Your aim is to be resourceful, and to be seen as collaborating on the objectives.
你的目標是足智多謀，並被視為在目標上合作。

In these meetings with more senior executives you have an opportunity to shine as well as to be supportive. However, remember that while the yes person makes life easy for the chair she wins no reputation as a woman to be given more responsibility. On the other hand, a prophet of doom who never makes a good or constructive contribution is also tiresome. If you have reservations or disagree say so, but avoid getting a reputation as someone who always shoots down ideas. Leaders are positive not negative people.
在與更多高階主管的這些會議中，您有機會表現出色並提供支援。然而，請記住，雖然唯唯諾諾的人讓主席的生活變得輕鬆，但她並沒有贏得作為女性承擔更多責任的聲譽。另一方面，一個從未做出良好或建設性貢獻的末日預言家也是令人厭煩的。如果你有保留意見或不同意，請直言不諱，但要避免獲得總是否定想法的名聲。領導者是積極的人而不是消極的人。

Beware, too, of putting yourself in the role of evaluator on every issue; you may well lend a significant contribution, weighing pros and cons, but should avoid always filling this role; at least occasionally have a decisive view.
也要注意，不要讓自己在每個問題上都扮演評估者的角色；權衡利弊後，你很可能會做出重大貢獻，但應避免總是擔任這個角色；至少偶爾有決定性的看法。

Two roles you should never adopt are those of the disrupter or the non-entity:
你永遠不應該扮演的兩個角色是破壞者或非實體：

The Disrupter always arrives late or is constantly dashing in and out for messages. This person is just saying that she finds herself superior to the group and that it doesn't merit her attention.
幹擾者總是遲到或不斷衝進衝出尋找訊息。這個人只是說她發現自己比這群人優越，這不值得她注意。

The Non-Entity remains part of the furniture; her days are numbered. If you don't/can't participate you are taking up valuable space and will lose your chance to become more involved. More involvement brings more responsibility. More responsibility means more visibility, which means advancement.
非實體仍然是家具的一部分；她的日子屈指可數了。如果您不/不能參與，您就會佔用寶貴的空間，並將失去更多參與的機會。更多的參與意味著更多的責任。更多的責任意味著更多的知名度，這意味著進步。

AS THE CHAIR
作為主席

To chair a well run meeting takes preparation plus communication and management skills.
主持一場運作良好的會議需要準備工作以及溝通和管理技能。

In preparation, always develop an agenda that is as focused as possible. Limit it to one page, preferably no more than a dozen lines in length. Assign presentations ahead of time, getting your key people to lead discussions. Your role is to get the facts out, generate discussion that leads to proposed solutions, evaluate the pros and cons of the solutions and gain agreement on the best one.
在準備過程中，始終制定一個盡可能集中的議程。將其限制在一頁內，長度最好不超過十幾行。提前分配演示文稿，讓關鍵人員引導討論。您的職責是弄清楚事實，引發討論以提出解決方案，評估解決方案的利弊並就最佳解決方案達成一致。

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YOUR IMAGE ACROSS THE TABLE
您在桌上的形象

Only involve people who are essential and can make a contribution. If the issues require deliberation from a greater number of people, have your managers first go through the same exercise with their teams and then present the concerns and recommendations of their staff in a meeting with you.
只讓重要的、能夠做出貢獻的人參與。如果問題需要更多人審議，請讓您的經理先與他們的團隊進行相同的練習，然後在與您的會議上提出其員工的擔憂和建議。

Let the participants know what will be expected of them. If you want their input, backup, or research on anything, give them ample notice. Otherwise, a meeting can degenerate into an unwieldy session of off-the- cuff opinions.
讓參與者知道對他們的期望。如果您需要他們的意見、支持或研究，請充分通知他們。否則，會議可能會變成一次笨拙的即興發表意見的會議。

Meet in the morning whenever possible, when people are most alert. If the agenda will take all day, better to start very early and allow for a generous lunch break, say one and a half hours, so people have ample time in which to refresh themselves. Encourage a few 10 minute recesses, too, and suggest that people take a walk outside if weather permits.
盡可能在早上聚會，此時人們最警覺。如果議程需要一整天，最好儘早開始，並留出充足的午休時間，例如一個半小時，讓人們有充足的時間恢復精力。也鼓勵人們休息 10 分鐘，並建議人們在天氣允許的情況下到外面散步。

Choose a meeting room that will be conducive to discussion. One that is too small quickly becomes very claustrophobic; one that is too large and cavernous inhibits discussion.
選擇一個有利於討論的會議室。太小的房間很快就會變得非常幽閉恐怖；太小的房間很快就會變得非常幽閉恐怖。太大且空洞的東西會阻礙討論。

HOW TO DRESS
如何著裝

Even the most informal brainstorming meeting is a battle ground for status and recognition. To maintain yours or win attention, dress as formally as your normal work environment allows.
即使是最非正式的腦力激盪會議也是地位和認可的戰場。為了保持自己的形像或贏得關注，請在正常工作環境允許的情況下穿著正式。

If giving a report or presenting, wear an elegant, neutral ensemble (suit or dress with jacket), with just a dash of colour to hold the audience's attention. Very bold colours, like red or yellow, can be overwhelming in a small group if worn overall but can be effective, say, as a blouse to complement a more neutral jacket. Black and navy can be a bit heavy and too sombre on women. Instead, opt for pewter, taupe, olive, purple or camel, to ensure that you will stand out among your dark-suited male colleagues.
如果進行報告或演示，請穿著優雅、中性的套裝（西裝或連身裙加夾克），只需一點顏色即可吸引觀眾的注意力。非常大膽的顏色，如紅色或黃色，如果整體穿著，可能會在一小群人中顯得勢不可擋，但也可以很有效，例如作為襯衫搭配更中性的夾克。黑色和海軍藍對女性來說可能有點沉重和陰沉。相反，選擇白鑞色、灰褐色、橄欖色、紫色或駝色，以確保您在深色西裝的男性同事中脫穎而出。

WHERE TO SIT
坐在哪裡

When you arrive at a meeting without assigned seating, it can be a problem figuring out where to sit to achieve your objectives. In some meetings you know you are in for a confrontation with an adversary; in others you need to present and be seen by the greatest number. Then in some meetings you simply want to disappear.
當您參加會議時沒有指定座位時，您可能很難確定坐在哪裡來實現您的目標。在某些會議中，您知道自己將與對手發生對抗；而在某些會議中，您知道自己將與對手發生衝突。在其他方面，您需要展示並被最多的人看到。然後在一些會議中你只想消失。

Here are some general guidelines on how to seat yourself strategically:
以下是一些關於如何策略性地就座的一般準則：

◆ If you want recognition always sit within good eye contact of the decision-makers (who may not always include the chair).
◆ 如果您希望獲得認可，請隨時坐在決策者（可能不會總是包含主席）的良好目光接觸範圍內。

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If presenting, arrive early and select your best vantage point. At a long table you are best in the middle of one side; at an oval table at one of the narrow curved 'ends'.
如果要進行演示，請儘早到達並選擇最佳的有利位置。在一張長桌子上，你最好坐在一邊的中間；在狹窄的彎曲“末端”之一的橢圓形桌子旁。

To mitigate a confrontation, sit next to the challenger. It is far more difficult to attack from the side. Avoid sitting directly opposite the person.
為了緩解對抗，請坐在挑戰者旁邊。從側面攻擊要困難得多。避免坐在該人的正對面。

◆ To avoid attention, sit in a 'blind spot' for the chair, your supervisor or the key participant; that is, where it is physically difficult to see you. And wear your most neutral outfit, with no 'special' accessories.
◆ 為避免引起注意，請坐在椅子、主管或主要參與者的「盲點」；也就是說，在身體上很難見到你的地方。穿最中性的衣服，不帶任何「特殊」配件。

◆ If you are a junior or new participant, wait to be told where to sit.
◆ 如果您是初級或新參與者，請等待被告知坐在哪裡。

POSITIVE BODY LANGUAGE
積極的肢體語言

The BBC once asked me to analyse the dynamics of a corporate staff meeting by watching a video of the proceedings with the volume turned off. It was quite obvious who respected whom, who everyone had no time for, and who was antagonistic towards whom. Do you realise how much you expose of your true feelings for colleagues through your behaviour at meetings?
BBC曾經讓我透過觀看一段關掉音量的會議影片來分析一次公司員工會議的動態。誰尊重誰，誰無暇理會誰，誰敵對誰，一目了然。您是否意識到您在會議上的行為多少暴露了您對同事的真實感受？

You may be able to control your behaviour in short meetings but longer ones test everyone's patience and inevitably, through fatigue, we begin to send messages loud and clear without even opening our mouths. You can use your behaviour to impress others or to undermine yourself during meetings. Here's how.
您也許能夠在簡短的會議中控制自己的行為，但較長的會議會考驗每個人的耐心，並且不可避免地，由於疲勞，我們甚至不張嘴就開始大聲而清晰地發送訊息。在會議期間，您可以利用自己的行為給別人留下深刻印像或破壞自己。方法如下。

Impressive signals
令人印象深刻的訊號

Sit upright and alert. Sit forward to convey real interest.
坐直並保持警惕。向前坐以表達真正的興趣。

Undermining signals
破壞訊號

Keep your eyes on the speaker.
眼睛始終注視著講話者。

Slouch in your chair.
懶洋洋地坐在椅子上。

Take notes, not constantly,
做筆記，而不是不斷做筆記，

Look down at notes, out of the window, at the ceiling.
低頭看看筆記，看看窗外，看看天花板。

Doodle.
塗鴉。

but key points.
但關鍵點。

Turn your body to the speaker/chair.
將身體轉向揚聲器/椅子。

Physically turn away.
身體轉身離開。

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YOUR IMAGE ACROSS THE TABLE
您在桌上的形象

Fold your arms tightly across your body (says, 'I'm not listening').
將雙臂緊緊地交叉在身體上（說：「我不聽」）。

When listening keep your body 'open': arms leaning forward on the table, relaxed to the sides of your body, hands gently folded.
聆聽時，保持身體「開放」：手臂向前傾斜在桌子上，放鬆到身體兩側，雙手輕輕交叉。

Use open gestures: hands open or up as if serving an idea to your colleagues.
使用開放的手勢：雙手張開或舉起，就像向同事提出想法一樣。

Use closed, threatening gestures: like the preaching forefinger to make your points.
使用封閉的、威脅性的手勢：例如用說教的食指來表達你的觀點。

Smile and use humour to alleviate tension whenever appropriate.
在適當的時候微笑並使用幽默來緩解緊張情緒。

Deadpan, growling, or cynical expressions.
面無表情、咆哮或憤世嫉俗的表情。

HOW IS YOUR HANDSHAKE?
你的握手怎麼樣？

Your handshake reveals your confidence, professionalism and status. What signals does yours send?
你的握手彰顯了你的自信、專業和地位。你的訊號發出什麼訊號？

The Patroniser: (left) The double-clutch, while often conveying affection or warm feelings, is perceived by many as at best maternal, and at worst patronising
贊助者：（左）雙離合器雖然經常傳達愛意或溫暖的感覺，但被許多人認為充其量是母性的，最糟的情況是居高臨下

At Arm's Length: (below left) A stiff arm fully extended tells others to keep away. You are saying to them that you feel threatened, or that you are aloof and superior to them Well Met: (below right) The correct handshake is direct and friendly. Grip the other person's whole hand with firmness, smile and make direct eye contact
保持一定距離：（左下）完全伸展的僵硬手臂告訴其他人遠離。你是在對他們說你感到受到威脅，或者你比他們冷漠、優越。堅定地握住對方的整隻手，微笑並進行直接的眼神交流

เง

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ONE-TO-ONE: JOB INTERVIEWS
一對一：工作面試

Perhaps the best example of the one-to-one meeting and one most crucial to everyone's career is the job interview. As we are often asked to advise people on what to wear and how to handle themselves in an interview, it merits special discussion here.
也許一對一會議的最佳例子以及對每個人的職業生涯最重要的會議就是工作面試。由於我們經常被要求在面試中為人們提供關於穿什麼以及如何處理自己的建議，因此值得在這裡進行專門討論。

The first thing to realise is that the best qualified don't necessarily get the jobs. No, they tend to go to the people most skilled in convincing others that they are right for the job. Even if you don't have all the necessary qualifications and experience, if you want the job and know you can do it, you should be able to sell yourself. You have lots of intangible assets that every employer wants and that can more than compensate for being a bit short on credentials. You may be well-organised, hard- working, able to deal with difficult people. And above all you can exude enthusiasm.
首先要認識到的是，最有資格的人不一定能得到這份工作。不，他們傾向於去找那些最擅長說服別人他們適合這份工作的人。即使您沒有所有必要的資格和經驗，如果您想要這份工作並且知道自己可以勝任，您應該能夠推銷自己。你擁有每個雇主都想要的大量無形資產，而這些資產足以彌補資歷上的不足。你可能組織良好，工作勤奮，能夠與難相處的人打交道。最重要的是，你可以表現出熱情。

HOW TO DRESS
如何著裝

In the first 3 minutes the interviewer will decide if s/he isn't going to hire you. You should be able to see whether or not the whole exercise is perfunctory after 3 minutes, simply by their behaviour. If you pass the 3 minute hurdle and still note interest, they haven't necessarily decided to hire you, but you do have a chance. That is why your appearance is vital to jumping over that initial hurdle with confidence. Here are some tips:
在前 3 分鐘內，面試官將決定是否要聘用您。 3分鐘後你應該可以透過他們的行為看出整個練習是否敷衍。如果你通過了 3 分鐘的障礙並且仍然感興趣，他們不一定決定僱用你，但你確實有機會。這就是為什麼你的外表對於自信地跨越最初的障礙至關重要。以下是一些提示：

Make sure you go to bed early the night before, so you are properly rested, and at your best.
確保前一天晚上早點睡覺，這樣你就能得到充分的休息，並處於最佳狀態。

Wear the best suit you can afford or borrow and make sure it is pressed. Check that you can sit down in it comfortably without the skirt riding up. If you know you look good, you will have more self-confidence.
穿你能買得起或借來的最好的西裝，並確保它是熨燙好的。檢查您是否可以舒適地坐在裡面，裙子不會捲起。如果你知道自己看起來不錯，你就會更有自信。

◆ Choose neutral rather than loud colours but show more flair if applying to a creative industry.
◆ 選擇中性而非花俏的顏色，但如果應用於創意產業，會更顯才華。

◆ Look current but never trendy (unless in the fashion business). If you are aiming to return to work after starting a family, don't wear anything 'mumsie'.
◆ 看起來流行但絕不流行（除非在時尚界）。如果您打算在組建家庭後重返工作崗位，請不要穿任何「媽媽」的衣服。

◆ Avoid flashy scarves or accessories.
◆ 避免使用華麗的圍巾或配件。

◆ Don't wear perfume.
◆ 不要噴香水。

◆ Aim for understated elegance.
◆ 力求低調優雅。

◆ Shoes must match your suit in quality, and be well-polished. Court shoes are the safest style; don't wear stillettos, flats or boots.
◆ 鞋子的品質必須與您的西裝相匹配，並且要擦得鋤頭。宮廷鞋是最安全的款式；不要穿高跟鞋、平底鞋或靴子。

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您在桌上的形象

◆ Sport an elegant attaché or leather file; if you have neither, see if you can borrow one.
◆ 配備優雅的公事包或皮革銼刀；如果你都沒有，看看是否可以藉一個。

If it is a rainy day and you're carrying an umbrella, make sure it tones with your outfit and is not overly large.
如果是下雨天並且您攜帶雨傘，請確保雨傘與您的服裝色調相配，並且雨傘不要太大。

Use a neat, small note pad and a good quality fountain pen to take notes.
使用整潔的小記事本和優質鋼筆做筆記。

◆ Always wear make-up, naturally in soft colours.
◆ 經常化妝，顏色要自然柔和。

♦ Cover any spots with concealer.
❖ 用遮瑕膏遮蓋任何斑點。

◆ Have clean hair. Avoid greasy gels, the wet-look or outlandish styles. Tie-back or put up long hair. Don't use childish ribbons or tie-backs. Aim for a classic simplicity.
◆ 頭髮乾淨。避免油膩的凝膠、濕漉漉的或古怪的款式。將長髮紮在腦後或盤起。不要使用幼稚的絲帶或繫帶。追求經典簡約。

♦ Have clean, manicured nails which will be on view as you take notes. Do not wear brightly coloured nail-varnish. Use a natural varnish or simply buff your nails to achieve a healthy sheen.
擁有乾淨、修剪整齊的指甲，記筆記時可以看到這些指甲。不要塗上顏色鮮豔的指甲油。使用天然清漆或簡單地拋光指甲即可獲得健康的光澤。

◆ Keep jewellery to a minimum but wear significant earrings.
◆ 盡量減少配戴首飾，但配戴顯眼的耳環。

◆ Leave your coat in reception.
◆ 將外套留在接待處。

HOW TO BEHAVE
如何行事

What you say in an interview is important, but how you speak and your general behaviour are also under scrutiny. In addition to finding out if you can actually do the job, the interviewer is probing to see how you will fit into the corporate culture.
你在面試中所說的話很重要，但你說話的方式和你的一般行為也會受到審查。除了了解你是否真的能勝任這份工作之外，面試官還會探討你如何融入公司文化。

◆ Be enthusiastic without going overboard.
◆ 充滿熱情，但不要太過分。

Shake hands upon meeting the interviewer and look him/her straight in the eye, with a smile. Shake hands again on leaving.
與面試官見面時握手，並微笑地直視他/她的眼睛。離開時再次握手。

Sit relaxed in the chair but don't slump. Don't sit too far forward unless in a very soft chair/sofa. (See also hints on body language given in Chapter 11.)
放鬆地坐在椅子上，但不要癱倒。除非坐在非常柔軟的椅子/沙發上，否則不要坐得太前。（另請參閱第 11 章有關肢體語言的提示。）

◆ Don't become too relaxed, even if you think things are going well. Think 'professional'. Never, for instance, smoke - don't even consider asking if you can!
◆ 即使您認為事情進展順利，也不要變得太放鬆。認為“專業”。例如，永遠不要吸煙——甚至不要考慮詢問是否可以！

◆ Don't joke around aside from pleasantries or the odd witticism. No one wants a clown, unless that's the job you are applying for.
◆ 除了寒暄或奇怪的俏皮話之外，不要開玩笑。沒有人想要小丑，除非那是你正在申請的工作。

◆ Take a pen and note pad out at the beginning of the interview and jot
◆ 訪談一開始就拿出筆和記事本並記下

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down a few notes throughout. This shows interest and also attention to details but don't make them so copious that you can't give the interviewer due attention.
整個過程中記下一些音符。這顯示了你對細節的興趣和關注，但不要讓細節太多，以至於無法給予面試官應有的關注。

If the interviewer takes a phone call that is running on, after a few minutes take out an article from your attaché or brief-case and begin reading it. You will avoid looking like an unwilling eavesdropper, and reading a business article will help you to look intelligent and show that you don't waste time.
如果面試官接聽電話，幾分鐘後，從你的隨員或公文包中取出一篇文章並開始閱讀。您將避免看起來像一個不情願的竊聽者，閱讀商業文章將幫助您看起來很聰明，並表明您不會浪費時間。

The job interview is like a sales call, except that you are the only product you've got. Don't expect one act to go down the same with all interviewers. They are all different. You need to have sharp, honest, positive replies to all the standard questions like:
求職面試就像是一次銷售拜訪，只不過你是你擁有的唯一產品。不要指望某一行為會得到所有面試官的一致好評。他們都是不同的。您需要對所有標準問題做出尖銳、誠實、積極的答复，例如：

'Why are you interested in this job?"
“你為什麼對這份工作感興趣？”

◆ 'Why are you leaving your present job?"
◆ “為什麼要離開現在的工作？”

◆ 'Why were you made redundant?'
◆ “為什麼被裁員？”

◆ 'What experience are you most proud of in your career thus far?' ◆ 'What are your strengths? Weaknesses?'
◆ “迄今為止，在您的職業生涯中，您最引以為傲的經歷是什麼？” ◆ '你的優勢是什麼？弱點？

◆ 'You have different (or no) experience. How can you do this job?"
◆ '你有不同的（或沒有）經驗。你怎麼能勝任這份工作呢？

◆ 'Why should we hire you?'
◆ “我們為什麼要雇用你？”

'What are your outside interests?'
“你的業餘愛好是什麼？”

Answers to these and similar questions you need to have prepared. But never jump to answer the questions. Take your time. Answer only as you are exhaling.
您需要準備好這些問題和類似問題的答案。但永遠不要跳出來回答問題。慢慢來。僅在呼氣時回答。

Size up the interviewer. What response did s/he like best and why? Some people like examples of your experiences explained; others want to see examples of what you did. Some want you to be brief, others like you to elaborate. Listen to and observe the interviewer and give her/him what s/he likes, how s/he likes it.
評估面試官。他/她最喜歡什麼回答，為什麼？有些人喜歡解釋你的經歷的例子；有些人喜歡解釋你的經歷。其他人想看看你所做的事情的例子。有些人希望你簡短，有些人希望你詳細說明。傾聽並觀察面試官，告訴她/他喜歡什麼、如何喜歡。

If you don't prove to be the lucky candidate in your earliest interviews, at least you'll learn through practice and discover how to project yourself in your best light. Remember, those who seem most polished at interviewing are only former students of the art who have studied and practised. You can succeed, too, if you make the effort.
如果你在最早的面試中沒有被證明是幸運的候選人，至少你會透過實踐學習並發現如何以最好的方式展現自己。請記住，那些在面試中看起來最出色的人只是曾經學習和實踐的藝術學生。只要你努力，你也能成功。

CHAPTER 12
第12章

In the Public Eye
在公眾眼中

f you are particularly resourceful and successful in your career, sooner or later you might be asked to speak on behalf or your organisation, perhaps even to represent it under the scrutiny of the media. The first opportunity to stand in the limelight often produces a 'fight or flight' response, particularly in the untrained. Nervous about being interviewed, you argue your position defensively, unaware of how belligerent and underconfident you appear. Or you are so desperate to get the interview over that you race through your replies, giving inadequate attention to the questions and insufficient thought to what you are saying.
如果您在職業生涯中特別足智多謀和成功，遲早您可能會被要求代表您的組織發言，甚至可能在媒體的監督下代表它。第一次出現在聚光燈下的機會常常會產生「戰鬥或逃跑」的反應，特別是對於未經訓練的人來說。你對受訪感到緊張，以防禦性的方式論證自己的立場，卻沒有意識到自己顯得多麼好戰和缺乏自信。或者你太急於完成面試，所以你匆忙地回复，對問題沒有給予足夠的重視，對你所說的話沒有足夠的思考。

Even the most capable, articulate manager can appear incompetent if unprepared for an encounter with an inquisitive journalist. Hence, it is wise to think through how you can handle being in the Public Eye, especially if you ever consider choosing a public life.
如果沒有準備好面對好奇的記者，即使是最有能力、最善於表達的經理也會顯得無能。因此，明智的做法是思考如何應對公眾的視線，特別是如果您考慮選擇公共生活。

TELEVISION
電視

Handling the media, particularly television, takes a different set of skills that most of us have to learn. Few can 'wing' an interview with no training or preparation and come off well. We have all witnessed punters make fools of themselves on television. You know, the news report where the unsuspecting company spokes-person was sent into the studio ill-prepared and poorly-groomed for a tough interview. It is embarrassing to watch when a no doubt normally articulate and nice person comes off either as a crook or an idiot.
處理媒體，特別是電視，需要我們大多數人必須學習的一套不同的技能。很少有人能夠在未經培訓或準備的情況下「即興」接受採訪並獲得良好的結果。我們都目睹過賭客在電視上出醜。你知道，在新聞報導中，毫無戒心的公司發言人被派進攝影棚，在準備不足、訓練不善的情況下接受艱難的採訪。當一個毫無疑問通常善於言語、善良的人變成騙子或白痴時，這是令人尷尬的。

TV is an art-form, and you need to learn the rules of the game in order to present yourself and your case with success. Your company will blame you for foolhardiness, rather than praise you for your brave effort, if you
電視是一種藝術形式，你需要學習遊戲規則才能成功地展示你自己和你的案例。如果你的公司會責怪你的魯莽，而不是讚揚你的勇敢努力，如果你

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put up a woeful performance... and you almost certainly won't ever get another opportunity. So be prepared.
表現很糟糕……你幾乎肯定不會再有機會了。所以要做好準備。

PREPARING FOR A TV INTERVIEW
準備電視採訪

As when preparing for a successful large audience presentation, you have to do your homework before any TV interview. Just knowing you will be discussing a particular issue isn't enough. Research the following:
正如準備一場成功的大型觀眾演講一樣，您必須在接受電視採訪之前做好功課。僅僅知道您將討論某個特定問題是不夠的。研究以下內容：

What kind of programme will you be on? There's a world of difference between hard news and a chat show. Sometimes they will discuss the same issue but the treatment is light years apart.
你會參加什麼樣的節目？硬新聞和脫口秀節目之間有天壤之別。有時他們會討論同一個問題，但治療方法卻相差數年。

How much time do you have for your interview? The researcher should tell you this quite precisely. For example, you might be part of a 5 minute piece but only be likely to be asked one or two questions, and get only a minute of air time.
您有多少時間進行面試？研究人員應該非常準確地告訴你這一點。例如，您可能會參與一個 5 分鐘的節目，但可能只會被問到一兩個問題，並且只有一分鐘的播放時間。

♦ Who else will be appearing with you? Expect the format to include a protagonist (possibly yourself) and an antagonist (possibly a competitor, disgruntled employee, irate customer, union official, consumer activist, politician, etc.). If no one else is part of the interview, expect your interviewer to be the 'devil's advocate'.
❖ 還有誰會跟你一起出現？期望該格式包括一個主角（可能是你自己）和一個對手（可能是競爭對手、心懷不滿的員工、憤怒的客戶、工會官員、消費者活動家、政治家等）。如果沒有其他人參與面試，那麼你的面試官就會成為「魔鬼代言人」。

Who is the interviewer? You might be familiar with the programme but interviewers are usually working on a rota basis; so check who will be on duty. Once known, watch him/her beforehand or ask the researcher for tapes of a couple of their previous interviews, to get a sense of their style and interview technique.
面試官是誰？您可能熟悉該計劃，但面試官通常是輪流工作的；所以檢查一下誰會值班。一旦了解，請事先觀看他/她或向研究人員索取他們之前的幾次訪談錄音，以了解他們的風格和訪談技巧。

Where will the interview be held? An in-studio appearance requires different preparation from one on location, say, at your office. If the latter, never agree to begin filming until you have checked exactly how you will be positioned. Ask to see the monitor before you begin and eliminate anything distracting or likely to be misinterpreted.
面試將在哪裡進行？在工作室裡的表演需要與在現場（例如在辦公室）不同的準備工作。如果是後者，在您準確檢查自己的位置之前，切勿同意開始拍攝。在開始之前要求查看監視器並消除任何分散注意力或可能被誤解的東西。

HANDLING THE INTERVIEW
處理面試

If asked to be interviewed on television, make sure you have your own objectives very clear. You will be hit with all sorts of questions, some irrelevant to the central message you need and want to convey. Your main worry should never be the interviewer but the clock. Time is always of the essence. So your message must be concise, effective and premeditated.
如果要求接受電視採訪，請確保您自己的目標非常明確。您會遇到各種各樣的問題，其中一些與您需要和想要傳達的中心訊息無關。你主要擔心的永遠不該是面試官，而是時鐘。時間始終至關重要。因此，您的訊息必須簡潔、有效且經過深思熟慮。

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Your message
您的留言

Focus your message to a few key points, kept simple but reinforced by everything you say.
將您的訊息集中在幾個關鍵點上，保持簡單，但透過您所說的一切來強化。

If you are brought in to defend a charge, whether or not fairly levied, decide ahead of time how you will respond. Write out the reply and practise it on others before the interview. Be positive, own-up if needed (having first established with your company executives that this is a possibility and your reaction must be prepared), present remedies and, above all, be pleasant. Even if you have been boxed into a tight corner and you are on the defensive, try not to look or sound it; never lose your temper.
如果您被帶去辯護一項指控，無論指控是否公平，請提前決定您將如何回應。在面試前寫下答案並向其他人練習。如果需要的話，要積極、坦白（先與公司高層確定這是一種可能性，並且你必須做好反應準備），提出補救措施，最重要的是，保持愉快的態度。即使你已經被逼入絕境並且處於防守狀態，也盡量不要看或聽；永遠不要發脾氣。

In some situations, an interview can be vital to business, if not a turning point one way or another in your career. If in doubt at all about your ability to tackle tough questions and defend your position, have colleagues rehearse likely questions ahead of time so you get your message flowing smoothly. After all, you are representing them, and you have every right to expect their support.
在某些情況下，面試即使不是您職涯中的一個轉捩點，也可能對業務至關重要。如果對您解決棘手問題和捍衛自己立場的能力有任何疑問，請讓同事提前排練可能的問題，以便您順利傳達訊息。畢竟，你代表他們，你完全有權利去期望他們的支持。

The interviewer
面試官

Believe it or not, s/he is human, too. Many first-time interviewees are terrified by their potential interviewer. They have the edge over you in being familiar with the technology, the set and the main questions they will put to you. But you have the edge with your expertise which they need, and they cannot always anticipate your responses so they, too, have to think on their feet.
不管你信不信，他/她也是人。許多第一次接受面試的人都對潛在的面試官感到害怕。他們比你更熟悉科技、設備以及他們將向你提出的主要問題。但你擁有他們所需要的專業知識的優勢，而且他們不能總是預測你的反應，所以他們也必須迅速思考。

Never project signals that convey you feel inferior to the interviewer. S/he is no doubt highly intelligent and well-briefed, but s/he isn't the specialist that you are in your field. Treat the interviewer neither as a superior nor an inferior, but as your professional equal.
切勿表現出讓面試官感覺自己低人一等的訊號。毫無疑問，他/她非常聰明且消息靈通，但他/她並不是您所在領域的專家。不要將面試官視為上級或下級，而是將其視為與你在職業上平等的人。

However much you may be provoked, keep your composure and never attack back. The interviewer is familiar to the audience. You are the outsider who can become the antagonist if you show any hostility. Keep your answer brief and to the point. If you have to dig, do so with a genial smile on your face to take the sting out of a tough reply. Your goal is to appear open, competent and trustworthy.
無論你受到多大的激怒，都要保持冷靜，切勿反擊。訪談者是觀眾所熟悉的。你是局外人，如果你表現出任何敵意，就可能成為對手。讓你的回答簡潔明了。如果你必須挖掘，請面帶和藹的微笑，以消除強硬答覆帶來的刺痛。您的目標是表現得開放、有能力且值得信賴。

YOUR TV IMAGE
您的電視形象

If you expect an increasing role in television, it is wise to get some professional coaching ahead of time. It is essential for you to see for yourself how you come across under questioning, as well as to see how you look. Mock TV interviews on video are illuminating, not soul destroying. They
如果您期望在電視中扮演越來越重要的角色，那麼提前獲得一些專業指導是明智的。對您來說，親眼看看您在審問時的表現以及您的外表是很重要的。影片中的模擬電視採訪具有啟發性，而不是毀滅性的。他們

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give most people greater confidence in handling the real thing, especially if talked through an analysis of their strong and weak points by a professional.
讓大多數人在處理真實的事情時更有信心，特別是在專業人士對他們的優點和缺點進行分析的情況下。

Short of being able to receive such coaching before an important interview, here are some general guidelines to help you handle your first television appearance with success.
如果您無法在重要採訪之前接受此類指導，這裡有一些一般準則可以幫助您成功應對首次電視露面。

EFFECTIVE COLOURS
有效的顏色

Time now to learn what sort of clothing is most effective on camera. We've all watched the pretty presenter in fuchsia pink with matching lipstick and been struck by how we couldn't listen to a word she was saying have been mesmerised by her fuchsia lips!
現在是時候了解什麼樣的服裝在鏡頭前最有效。我們都看過這位漂亮的主持人穿著紫紅色的粉紅色衣服，塗著相配的口紅，我們都被她紫紅色的嘴唇迷住了，我們聽不到她說的任何一句話！

Certain colours are enhancing on camera and others are
某些顏色在相機上增強，而其他顏色則在相機上增強

not: no
不：不

◆ Avoid extremes like very light or dark colours. Black is overwhelming on camera while white bleaches out and has a blinding effect.
◆ 避免極端的顏色，例如很淺或很深的顏色。黑色在相機上顯得壓倒性的，而白色則漂白並具有眩目的效果。

◆ Strong pinks, such as magenta through to red, defy focusing in most studios and have an effect known as 'bleeding', that is, the outlines get fuzzy and seem to run, like a dye.
◆ 強烈的粉紅色，例如洋紅色到紅色，在大多數工作室中無法聚焦，並且具有稱為「滲色」的效果，即輪廓變得模糊並且似乎像染料一樣流動。

◆ The more sophisticated the set the better able it is to handle strong colours. Assume that your local news station or the satellite studio is ill-equipped and avoid problem colours.
◆ 套裝越複雜，處理濃烈色彩的能力越好。假設您當地的新聞台或衛星攝影棚設備不足，請避免使用有問題的顏色。

◆ The easiest colours on camera are those in the middle of the colour spectrum: blues, greens and purples. These are focused easily and come up the truest on camera. The blue-greens and turquoise shades are especially attractive.
◆ 相機上最簡單的顏色是色譜中間的顏色：藍色、綠色和紫色。它們很容易對焦，並且在相機上呈現最真實的效果。藍綠色和綠松石色調特別有吸引力。

For blues try: medium blue, royal, french or grey-blue, periwinkle (violet/blue), light navy or teal blue.
對於藍色，請嘗試：中藍色、寶藍色、法式藍色或灰藍色、長春花色（紫羅蘭色/藍色）、淺海軍藍色或青色藍色。

◆ The greens that look wonderful range from moss and olive to emerald. (Deep greens like forest look black while bright greens can be blinding.)
◆ 看起來很漂亮的綠色植物有苔蘚色、橄欖色和祖母綠。（像森林這樣的深綠色看起來是黑色的，而明亮的綠色可能會讓人眼花撩亂。）

◆Purples look elegant on camera, ranging from medium lilac, violet, soft plum to purple. (Again, beware of very deep purple which turns muddy or black on television.
◆紫色在鏡頭上看起來很優雅，從中淡紫色、紫羅蘭色、柔和的梅子色到紫色。（再次強調，要小心深紫色，它在電視上會變成渾濁或黑色。

Consider the set when selecting what to wear. Many today are very colourful and require specific colours (out of the ones recommended above) simply for contrast. The more neutral the set the more colourful you can be. If the programme on which you are to appear does not
選擇穿什麼時要考慮套裝。如今，許多顏色非常豐富多彩，需要特定的顏色（上面推薦的顏色之外）只是為了形成對比。套裝越中性，你的色彩就越豐富。如果您要出現的節目沒有

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have a regular set, ring the studio and ask for details. At the same time, ask for specific advice on the most appropriate colours. It is in their interests, too, to tell you.
有常規設置，請致電工作室詢問詳細資訊。同時，詢問有關最合適顏色的具體建議。告訴你也符合他們的利益。

EFFECTIVE STYLES
有效的風格

Plain styles are best to wear on television. A well-cut jacket with a clean neckline is far more effective than a patterned ensemble which might start strobing on camera. Watch the female presenters on news programmes and compare their styles to those on 'light entertainment' or magazine shows. The news presenters generally wear more simple, 'forgettable' clothes while those of women presenting more fun programmes are generally unforgettable! You have a message to project, so be sure your clothes are simple, attractive and don't distract from what you are saying.
樸素的款式最適合在電視上穿。一件剪裁精良、領口乾淨的夾克比一件有圖案的套裝更有效，後者可能會在鏡頭前頻閃。觀看新聞節目中的女主持人，並將她們的風格與“輕娛樂”或雜誌節目中的風格進行比較。新聞主持人通常穿著更簡單、「容易被遺忘」的衣服，而女性主持人則通常穿著更有趣的節目，令人難忘！你要傳達一個訊息，所以要確保你的衣服簡單、有吸引力，並且不會分散你的注意力。

The neckline is critical. If your neck is short, don't clutter it with a high fussy collar or chunky necklace. Keep the neckline open and simple, either a jewel or V-neck. Shorter hairstyles will be more flattering on camera for you.
領口很關鍵。如果你的脖子很短，不要用高領或粗項鍊讓你的脖子變得雜亂。保持領口開放且簡單，可以是寶石領，也可以是 V 領。較短的髮型會讓你在鏡頭前更加迷人。

If you have a long neck, you can appear severe and gawky if you leave it completely exposed on camera. Soften the effect by tucking into the jacket collar a scarf (solid colour, no patterns). In lieu of a scarf, fill the neckline with a choker or necklace. A turned-up collar is another good effect. Wear your hair longer, to soften the neck area; shoulder length works well.
如果你的脖子很長，如果你把它完全暴露在鏡頭前，你可能會顯得嚴肅而笨拙。將圍巾塞進夾克領子（純色，無圖案），可以柔化效果。用頸鍊或項鍊代替圍巾。翻起的衣領是另一個好的效果。將頭髮留長一些，以軟化頸部區域；肩長效果很好。

BBC's Moira Stuart looks both elegant and professional in a plain jacket with a simple, clean neckline. All the focus is on her news report. For 'lighter' programmes you can wear more colour and add a few accessories. But remember that less is always best
BBC 的 Moira Stuart 穿著領口簡單乾淨的素色夾克，看起來既優雅又專業。所有的焦點都集中在她的新聞報道上。對於“較輕”的計劃，您可以穿著更多顏色的衣服並添加一些配件。但請記住，越少越好

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If you feel a plain jacket is too boring, that is, in a neutral colour and without any special features, add a necklace or brooch in matt gold, silver or pearls for interest. Avoid diamanté or coloured stones. Earrings should never be 'drop' style (another great distraction). And if your trademark is an armful of bangle bracelets, remove them before going on camera or the soundmen will murder you.
如果你覺得素色外套太單調，也就是中性色，沒有什麼特色，可以加一條啞金、銀、珍珠的項鍊或胸針，增添趣味。避免使用鑽石或有色寶石。耳環絕對不應該是「水滴」式的（另一個很大的干擾因素）。如果你的標誌是一抱手鐲，請在上鏡頭前將其取下，否則音響師會謀殺你。

MAKE-UP FOR TELEVISION
電視化妝

No one- - male or female - appears on television without make-up. You need it just to look polished, healthy and human under the harsh set lights. Don't leave your arrival at the studios so late that you don't have time to visit the make-up artist. And never agree to go on camera without being made up by an expert, unless you know from long experience how to prepare yourself.
沒有一個人——無論男性或女性——不化妝就出現在電視上。你需要它只是為了在刺眼的燈光下看起來優雅、健康和人性化。不要太晚才到達工作室，以免沒有時間拜訪化妝師。永遠不要同意在沒有專家化妝的情況下上鏡，除非您從長期經驗中知道如何做好準備。

People believe that you need to wear a lot of heavy make-up to look good on TV. The opposite is true. Though you do need foundation, con- cealer, powder, blusher, mascara and lipstick, all the colours must be matt, subtle and natural - never pearlised, bright or too dark.
人們認為，你需要化很濃的妝才能在電視上看起來好看。事實恰恰相反。雖然你確實需要粉底、遮瑕膏、粉餅、腮紅、睫毛膏和口紅，但所有顏色都必須是啞光、微妙和自然的——絕不能有珠光、明亮或太暗。

American TV presenters distinguish themselves around the world by wearing lip gloss over their lipstick. To Europeans, this looks very garish and concentrates viewers attention on the lips, when you want it on your eyes. So don't adopt this habit.
美國電視節目主持人在口紅上塗上唇彩，從而在世界各地脫穎而出。對於歐洲人來說，這看起來非常花哨，當你想把它放在眼睛上時，它會把觀眾的注意力集中在嘴唇上。所以不要養成這個習慣。

My advice for looking wonderful on camera is:
我對在鏡頭上看起來漂亮的建議是：

Foundation
基礎

If your skin is uneven in colour and patchy in texture, you'll need a slightly heavier base than usual. A water-based foundation might not be enough. Try a cream base for better coverage.
如果您的皮膚顏色不均勻且紋理不均勻，則需要比平常稍重的底霜。水性粉底可能還不夠。嘗試使用乳霜底霜以獲得更好的覆蓋效果。

Choose a colour one shade darker than your natural skintone. Normally, you match your skintone (i.e. for everyday make-up). But you can look very pale and drawn under strong studio lights if you don't enhance your skintone modestly.
選擇比您的自然膚色深一個色度的顏色。通常，您會搭配您的膚色（即日常化妝）。但如果你不適當地增強你的膚色，你可能會在強烈的工作室燈光下看起來非常蒼白和憔悴。

Concealer
遮瑕膏

It's essential to lighten up under the eyes, even if your dark circles aren't too bad'. Overhead studio lights can often make these dark areas very dark so always lighten up your eye area with concealer.
即使您的黑眼圈不太嚴重，提亮眼睛下方的顏色也很重要。頭頂工作室的燈光通常會使這些黑暗區域變得非常暗，因此請務必使用遮瑕膏照亮您的眼部區域。

Translucent powder
半透明粉

A light dusting with a big brush isn't enough. Press the powder in gently with a powder puff. You might look a bit 'floury' immediately afterwards
用大刷子輕輕除塵是不夠的。用粉撲輕輕按壓粉末。之後你可能會立即看起來有點“花粉”

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but your skin will soon absorb it and within minutes you'll look fine.
但您的皮膚很快就會吸收它，幾分鐘之內您就會看起來很好。

Eye-shadows
眼影

No 'colour-colours' like blues or greens. Soft browns teamed with a natural highlighter such as soft pink or apricot are best. Greys make you look as if you got punched the night before, so stick to the soft browns ranging from cocoa and pewter to honey and neutral brown.
沒有像藍色或綠色這樣的“顏色”。柔和的棕色搭配柔和的粉紅色或杏色等天然螢光筆是最好的選擇。灰色會讓你看起來就像前一天晚上被打了一拳，所以堅持選擇柔和的棕色，從可可色、白鑞色到蜂蜜色和中性棕色。

Eye pencil and mascara
眼線筆和睫毛膏

Define your eyes gently on the outer third of the upper and lower lids with a soft kohl pencil, but never use black. Try a neutral brown, spruce green, navy or plum, whichever best complements your eyes.
用柔軟的眼線筆輕輕地在上下眼瞼的外側三分之一處勾勒出眼睛的輪廓，但切勿使用黑色。試試中性棕色、雲杉綠、海軍藍或紫紅色，選擇最適合您眼睛的顏色。

Use mascara on the top lashes only, and liberally but not thickly. Apply a thin layer (black or brown only). Let this dry and comb through. Apply a second layer if you want to enhance their thickness or lengthen them.
只在上睫毛上使用睫毛膏，用量要多，但不要濃密。塗上薄薄的一層（僅限黑色或棕色）。讓其乾燥並梳理。如果您想增加它們的厚度或延長它們，請塗抹第二層。

Eyebrows
眉毛

Fill out the overall shape with a soft brown eye-shadow, applied with gentle dabs of a short-haired brush. This looks more natural than pencil lines. Finish by brushing up with a comb coated with hair gel.
用短毛刷輕輕塗抹，用柔和的棕色眼影填滿整體形狀。這看起來比鉛筆線更自然。最後用塗有髮膠的梳子梳理。

Blusher
腮紅

Be very easy-handed here. Use only a natural tone that compliments your colouring type. Salmon, terracotta, and a dusty rose are best. Blend really well so that it looks as natural as possible.
在這裡要非常輕鬆。僅使用適合您的色彩類型的自然色調。鮭魚、赤土色和塵土飛揚的玫瑰是最好的。混合得非常好，使其看起來盡可能自然。

Lipstick
口紅

As you won't be wearing red or strong pinks on camera, go for a soft, non-pearlised, neutral shade. A well-known make-up artist at CBS TV in America recommends using a colour that matches the inside of your lip. I think you are safe to be a bit more colourful than that.
由於您不會在鏡頭前穿著紅色或濃粉紅色的衣服，因此請選擇柔和、無珠光、中性的色調。美國CBS電視台的一位知名化妝師建議使用與嘴唇內部相匹配的顏色。我認為你可以安全地變得更加豐富多彩。

First powder your lips lightly, to help the lipstick take more effectively. Try a natural base of soft mauve, mahogany, tan pink or wine and then add a dash of a brighter salmon or cool pink to the centre of the top and lower lips and blend well.
首先在嘴唇上輕輕撲粉，以幫助口紅更有效地吸收。嘗試使用柔和的紫紅色、桃花心木色、棕褐色粉紅色或酒紅色作為底色，然後在上唇和下唇的中央添加少許亮鮭魚色或冷粉色，並充分混合。

Be sure to retouch your powder (see opposite) and lipstick if you are left a long time between having your make-up done and going on camera. A good trick for drinking coffee or water without messing your lipstick is to lick the cup at the spot where you intend to drink, before taking a sip. The wet surface prevents your lipstick from sticking to the cup.
如果從化妝到上鏡之間的時間間隔很長，一定要修飾你的粉餅（見對面）和口紅。喝咖啡或水而不弄髒口紅的一個好技巧是，在喝一口之前先舔一下杯子上要喝的地方。濕潤的表面可以防止口紅黏在杯子上。

139

YOURSELF
你自己

HAIR FOR TELEVISION
電視用頭髮

An attractive hairstyle is vital to a good TV image. Your hair frames your face, so assess very carefully how well the shape, colour and texture of your own hair works for you, particularly on camera. Hairstyles that seem perfectly OK in everyday life, can be disastrous on television.
迷人的髮型對於良好的電視形象至關重要。你的頭髮決定了你的臉，所以要仔細評估你自己頭髮的形狀、顏色和質地是否適合你，尤其是在鏡頭前。在日常生活中看似完美的髮型，在電視上可能會是災難性的。

Ask yourself right now: if you had to appear on TV tonight, how do you think your hair would look? Professional women need to settle on a style that they can easily maintain themselves between four to six weekly visits to a good hairdresser. If you are blessed with beautifully thick and long hair, are you skilled in pulling it up or back? If not, a smart shoulder- length style that can be controlled with hair gel or spray is recommended.
現在問問自己：如果今晚你必須出現在電視上，你認為你的頭髮會是什麼樣子？職業婦女需要確定一種可以在每週四到六次拜訪優秀美髮師期間輕鬆保持自己的髮型。如果你有幸擁有美麗又濃密的長髮，你是否擅長將頭髮向上或向後拉？如果沒有，建議選擇可以用髮膠或髮膠控制的及肩髮型。

For TV, your hair should frame, not overwhelm, your face. Depending on the programme, you should adapt your hairstyle, and whole appearance, to look appropriate to your audience. If you are on a news programme, the style shouldn't be excessively contrived or fussy. For a magazine format or chat show, a severe, simple style isn't glamorous enough.
對於電視來說，你的頭髮應該襯托出你的臉，而不是淹沒你的臉。根據節目的不同，您應該調整您的髮型和整體外觀，以適合您的觀眾。如果您參加新聞節目，風格不應過於做作或過於挑剔。對於雜誌形式或脫口秀來說，嚴肅、簡單的風格還不夠迷人。

Colour is very important to the success of a woman's hairstyle. Often, natural, uncoloured hair can look dead and mousey on camera, even if it looks lovely in real life. If you don't wish to colour your hair, you might try a semi-permanent rinse close to your own natural colouring, simply to give it some vibrancy prior to a TV appearance.
顏色對於女性髮型的成功非常重要。通常，自然的、未染色的頭髮在鏡頭上看起來死氣沉沉、像老鼠一樣，即使它在現實生活中看起來很可愛。如果您不想染髮，您可以嘗試使用接近您自己自然顏色的半永久漂洗劑，只是為了在出現在電視上之前給頭髮一些活力。

If you already colour your hair, be scrupulous about the state of your roots. Bleached blondes especially beware. If you don't pay care to touching up your roots you will look as if your hair is dirty - even though it may be squeaky clean. So book an appointment with your colourist before you appear on TV, if you have time.
如果您已經染髮，請仔細檢查髮根的狀況。漂白過的金髮女郎尤其要小心。如果你不注意修飾你的髮根，你的頭髮看起來就會很髒——儘管它可能乾乾淨淨。因此，如果您有時間，請在出現在電視上之前與您的調色師預約。

tones, If you have grey hair don't consider colouring it just for TV. Soft grey and even vibrant salt and pepper hair, are lovely on television.
色調，如果你有白髮，不要考慮只為了電視而染髮。柔軟的灰色頭髮，甚至充滿活力的鹽色和胡椒色頭髮，在電視上都很可愛。

It's the very artificial dyed tones of blonde, red and orange that can look horribly artificial on TV. The softer ash highlights for blondes and chestnut tones for brunettes are more flattering. A redhead, who is so naturally, always looks wonderful on TV.
金色、紅色和橙色等非常人造的染色色調在電視上看起來非常人造。金髮女郎的柔和灰調和黑髮女郎的栗色更討人喜歡。紅髮女郎，如此自然，在電視上總是看起來很漂亮。

GLASSES
眼鏡

All too often, amateurs appear on TV in ill-fitted, unstylish frames and without a protective coating on the lenses to deflect the glare of studio lights. Such spectacles would hurt anyone's chances of communicating effectively.
業餘愛好者經常戴著不合適、不時尚的鏡框出現在電視上，而且鏡片上沒有保護塗層來偏轉演播室燈光的眩光。這樣的景象會損害任何人有效溝通的機會。

But many people are simply uncomfortable without their eyeglasses. Despite how much younger and better looking Prime Minister John
但很多人不戴眼鏡就會感到不舒服。儘管約翰首相年輕得多、長得好看得多

IN THE PUBLIC EYE
在公眾眼中

Major is without his they are his security blanket. And many people, male and female, feel this way. Some, indeed, are enhanced by well-chosen frames; others, who do not need glasses, wear frames containing clear glass simply because they feel that the glasses give them a more mature, authoritative look. And there are many spectacle wearers who would prefer the option of wearing contact lenses, but for various reasons cannot.
少校沒有他，他們就是他的安全毯。許多人，無論男性或女性，都有這種感覺。事實上，有些是透過精心挑選的框架而增強的；另一些不需要眼鏡的人則戴著含有透明玻璃的鏡框，只是因為他們覺得眼鏡讓他們看起來更成熟、更有權威。許多眼鏡配戴者更願意選擇配戴隱形眼鏡，但由於各種原因不能。

If you must wear eyeglasses on TV, choose a pair that are flattering. On television your spectacles should not be so fashionable or fussy that they actually wear you rather than the reverse. So keep the colour of the frames neutral, with a clear bridge and your eyes at the centre of the lens.
如果您必須在看電視時戴眼鏡，請選擇一副美觀的眼鏡。在電視上，你的眼鏡不應該太時尚或太挑剔，以至於它們實際上磨損了你，而不是相反。因此，請保持鏡框顏色為中性，鼻樑清晰，眼睛位於鏡片中央。

CONTACT LENSES
隱形眼鏡

Many professionals have opted for contact lenses to make them look more natural or younger. If you are hard on your glasses and generally treat them badly so that they get scratched and bent easily, or lose them often enough to have expensive replacement bills, then maybe contact lenses are a better option than glasses.
許多專業人士選擇配戴隱形眼鏡，讓自己看起來更自然或更年輕。如果您對眼鏡很挑剔，並且通常對待它們很不好，因此它們很容易被刮傷和彎曲，或者經常丟失眼鏡而需要支付昂貴的更換費用，那麼也許隱形眼鏡是比框架眼鏡更好的選擇。

Your optometrist will advise whether or not your individual sight impairment will be conducive to lenses. Then you have the choice of clear or coloured versions. There are literally hundreds of shades to consider even to turn brown eyes blue. Obviously, lenses that are painted are opaque and achieve the most dramatic coverage. But the effect of opaque- coloured lenses can freak some people as the effect is so unnatural that your eyes take over your image and inhibit communication. So, if you are interested in changing or enhancing the natural colour of your eyes, opt for translucent ones that will have everyone guessing.
您的驗光師會建議您的個人視力障礙是否有利於配戴鏡片。然後您可以選擇透明或彩色版本。即使要將棕色眼睛變成藍色，實際上也有數百種色調需要考慮。顯然，塗漆鏡片是不透明的，可以實現最引人注目的覆蓋。但不透明彩色鏡片的效果可能會讓某些人感到害怕，因為這種效果非常不自然，以至於您的眼睛會佔據您的影像並抑制溝通。因此，如果您有興趣改變或增強眼睛的自然顏色，請選擇半透明的，這樣每個人都會猜測。

Remember, if you have lenses in different colours it will cause havoc with your wardrobe and make-up. The colour of your eyes is key to what colours in clothes, hair colour and make-up will be most flattering. Ivana Trump sports about a half dozen different coloured contact lenses, but she, perhaps unlike you, has the budget to maintain that many separate wardrobes! So if considering a major change of eye colour don't underestimate the other major investments required subsequently to go with your new image.
請記住，如果您擁有不同顏色的鏡片，則會對您的衣櫃和化妝品造成嚴重破壞。眼睛的顏色是決定什麼顏色的衣服、頭髮的顏色和妝容最討人喜歡的關鍵。伊凡娜川普 (Ivana Trump) 戴著大約六種不同顏色的隱形眼鏡，但她也許與你不同，她有預算來維護這麼多獨立的衣櫃！因此，如果考慮對眼睛顏色進行重大改變，請不要低估隨後為適應新形象所需的其他主要投資。

BODY LANGUAGE
肢體語言

In addition to all the essential grooming already detailed, there are a few other considerations before you are truly ready for the interview, to ensure you are seen and heard to your best advantage.
除了已經詳細介紹的所有必要的儀容之外，在您真正準備好面試之前，還有一些其他注意事項，以確保您以最佳優勢被看到和聽到。

141 11

PRESENTING YOURSELF
展現自己

Posture
姿勢

Many TV sets are furnished with low, comfortably cushioned sofas or chairs. These are a disaster for most TV novices, who automatically sit upon them as they would at home, well back and sunken. You lose all your energy and credibility when you sit naturally in a chair or sofa on TV. The whole experience is unnatural; so, too, must be your posture.
許多電視機都配有低矮、舒適的軟墊沙發或椅子。對於大多數電視新手來說，這些都是一場災難，他們會自動坐在上面，就像在家裡一樣，向後凹陷。當你自然地坐在電視上的椅子或沙發上時，你會失去所有的精力和信譽。整個體驗是不自然的；你的姿勢也必須如此。

Sit at the edge of your chair, leaning very slightly forward, with your back as straight as possible. If you are small and find the seat you are offered makes you lower than the presenter, request a higher chair with a firm seat. If this is not easily accepted as a very reasonable request, insist. Yes, insist! You are the guest and you are there at their request. They should have the courtesy to treat you as a guest. And it is in the interests of the programme that you are clearly visible! So make sure the conditions are as favourable as possible in order for you to put in a good appearance and come off well.
坐在椅子的邊緣，稍微向前傾斜，背部盡可能挺直。如果您身材矮小，並且發現為您提供的座位使您低於演示者，請要求一張較高且座位牢固的椅子。如果這是一個非常合理的要求，但不容易被接受，請堅持。是的，堅持！你是客人，你是應他們的要求來的。他們應該有禮貌地對待你作為客人。而且你清晰可見才符合程序的利益！因此，請確保條件盡可能有利，以便您擁有良好的外表和良好的表現。

Facial expressions and gestures
臉部表情和手勢

The atmosphere of a TV studio is daunting and not user-friendly. All sorts of equipment is jutting in from above and below, and a busy cast of assistants are around to prod you with microphones, move you about and direct you. It is only natural to freeze up amid all the activity and to look like a deer caught in a car's headlights as soon as you appear on camera.
電視演播室的氣氛令人生畏且不友善。各種設備從上到下突出，一群忙碌的助手在周圍用麥克風刺激你，移動你並指導你。在所有的活動中，你一出現在鏡頭前，就會被凍結，看起來就像一頭被車頭燈困住的鹿，這是很自然的事。

Take a few good deep breaths before sitting down (slightly forward and back straight) and smile at the presenter. Don't be distracted by the cameras or attempt to talk directly to any one of them. You are speaking with an interviewer and, possibly, other guests; try to imagine yourself having this conversation in your home or at your office. Even so, don't allow yourself to relax: remember, you must keep to your message and try to come off as positively as possible.
坐下前深呼吸幾次（稍微向前和向後挺直）並向演講者微笑。不要被攝影機分散注意力或嘗試直接與其中任何一個交談。您正在與訪談者交談，也可能與其他嘉賓交談；試著想像自己在家裡或辦公室進行這次對話。即便如此，也不要讓自己放鬆：記住，你必須堅守自己的訊息，並盡量表現得正面。

If the subject is a serious one, you'll look simple-minded if you smile throughout the interview. Your aim is to look serious and credible but not severe. However, do flash an occasional smile if an appropriate opportunity arises, so that the viewers warm to you.
如果話題很嚴肅，如果你在整個訪談過程中一直微笑著，就會顯得你頭腦簡單。你的目標是讓自己看起來嚴肅可信，但又不嚴肅。不過，如果有合適的機會，也要偶爾露出微笑，觀眾才會對你產生熱情。

Light-hearted interviews require almost a constant smile, even if this doesn't come naturally to you. My mouth, like many, turns down at the corners. So when I'm expressionless, I can actually look annoyed. For me it's agony, but I put on an effective smile for TV interviews and end up looking only pleasant, not the idiot that I feel inside. Most of today's presenters are hired in part for their looks. And a key factor to their looks is their smile. They all have mouths that turn upwards!
輕鬆愉快的採訪需要幾乎持續的微笑，即使這對你來說並不自然。我的嘴像許多人一樣，嘴角下垂。所以當我面無表情的時候，我實際上看起來很生氣。對我來說，這是一種痛苦，但我在接受電視採訪時臉上掛著有效的微笑，結果看起來只是令人愉快，而不是我內心感覺的白痴。今天大多數主持人被聘用的部分原因是他們的外表。影響他們外表的關鍵因素是他們的微笑。他們的嘴都是向上翹的！

In addition to maintaining eye contact with your interviewer, looking
除了與面試官保持目光接觸之外，

142

IN THE PUBLIC EYE
在公眾眼中

pleasant and sitting forward, you also must use gestures which are open. When some guests are nervous they cross their arms to hug themselves, which projects a defensive person. And if seated behind a table or desk don't think that by keeping your hands below the table you are kidding anyone that you're not secretly wringing them together! Keep them visible; you look unnatural without your hands.
愉快地坐向前，你也必須使用開放的手勢。當一些客人緊張時，他們會交叉雙臂擁抱自己，這表現出一種防禦性的態度。如果坐在桌子或書桌後面，不要認為將雙手放在桌子下方是在開玩笑，因為您沒有偷偷地將它們擰在一起！讓它們可見；沒有雙手，你看起來很不自然。

you are It is best to keep your hands folded together to start with if nervous but gradually to open them and use them to help you express your points. But don't wave them about wildly - it does happen sometimes on TV when guests get carried away by their own enthusiasm and it can be very irritating for the viewer. Hands can also appear disproportionately large if they are thrust forward towards the camera! Avoid the teacher's preaching forefinger or aggressive mid-air slicing to emphasise points. Keep your palms up or slightly angled to the sides to project that you are visibly offering a position for consideration. And always make sure, before going on the set, that your hands and nails are as well- groomed as the rest of you.
如果你一開始感到緊張，最好將雙手交叉在一起，但逐漸張開並用它們來幫助你表達你的觀點。但不要瘋狂地揮舞它們——電視上有時確實會發生這種情況，當客人被自己的熱情沖昏頭時，這會讓觀眾非常惱火。如果手向前伸向相機，也會顯得不成比例地大！避免老師用說教式的食指或侵略性的空中切球來強調重點。保持手掌向上或稍微向兩側傾斜，以表明您正在明顯地提供一個值得考慮的職位。在去片場之前，一定要確保你的手和指甲和你其他人一樣整潔。

143 43

CHAPTER 13
第13章

Choosing a Public life
選擇公共生活

A successful career sometimes brings opportunities to become involved charity worker, or serving on a school board or hospital committee, to holding an elected public office on a part-time or possibly even a full- time basis.
成功的職業有時會帶來參與慈善工作者、在學校董事會或醫院委員會任職、兼職甚至全職擔任民選公職的機會。

Politicians, in particular, know that they must be as concerned with image as they are with substance if they wish to have a successful, long- term career in public life. Even those who publicly deny that image is important, fearing that people will think that they aren't serious about their jobs, privately focus as much attention on the presentation as on the formulation of public policy. They know that this is the professional approach required in modern politics. The politician is the vehicle for explaining issues and proposing solutions; that vehicle packages the message and becomes the message itself.
尤其是政治家，他們知道，如果他們希望在公共生活中擁有成功、長期的職業生涯，他們就必須像關心實質一樣關心形象。即使那些公開否認形像很重要、擔心人們會認為他們對自己的工作不認真的人，私下也同樣關注公共政策的發展和展示。他們知道這是現代政治所需要的專業方法。政治家是解釋問題和提出解決方案的工具；該車輛將訊息打包並成為訊息本身。

Anyone in public life, be they a single-issue activist or elected official, appreciates the all-importance of televised communication. Either they master it or they fade into obscurity. Television is a career-maker and a career-breaker. Parties and leaders that use it effectively win, those who don't lose.
公共生活中的任何人，無論是單一議題的活動家或民選官員，都認識到電視傳播的重要性。他們要么掌握它，要么就消失得無影無蹤。電視是事業的創造者，也是事業的破壞者。有效使用它的政黨和領導人會獲勝，而沒有有效使用它的政黨和領導人會失敗。

In America, television was first used in the public arena to cover a Congressional investigation into organised crime in the 1950s. It turned the chairman of the proceedings, a self-deprecating, southern Senator Estes Kefauver into a cult figure. Later, during the 1960 Presidential election between John F. Kennedy and the then Vice President, Richard Nixon, the first such 'candidates' debates' on TV proved defeating for the arguably more experienced and better briefed Vice President. Preferring to rely on such political advantages, Nixon failed to groom
在美國，電視首次在公共場合使用是在 1950 年代報道國會對有組織犯罪的調查。這讓會議主席、一位自嘲的南方參議員埃斯蒂斯·凱福弗 (Estes Kefauver) 變成了一個受崇拜的人物。後來，在1960 年約翰·F·肯尼迪和當時的副總統理查德·尼克松之間的總統選舉中，第一次電視上的“候選人辯論”被證明是這位經驗更豐富、情況更豐富的副總統失敗了。尼克森更願意依靠這種政治優勢，但未能培養

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選擇公共生活

- himself for television, wearing the wrong colours and refusing outright any make-up and he lost to the young up-start Kennedy because the latter looked more convincing to the American public on television. Kennedy had not only been dressed appropriately and had asked to be made-up, prior to appearing on TV, but also was coached in handling his body language and gestures to look more capable, to look like a winner.
- 他自己在電視上穿著錯誤的顏色，並且完全拒絕化妝，他輸給了年輕的新貴肯尼迪，因為後者在電視上看起來對美國公眾更有說服力。甘迺迪在出現在電視上之前不僅衣著得體，要求化妝，而且還接受瞭如何處理肢體語言和手勢的指導，讓自己看起來更有能力，看起來像一個勝利者。

All leading figures in modern politics have had their image advisors; not simply to write their memorable speeches but to teach them acting skills to enhance their delivery, and guidance in 'power dressing'. Harold MacMillan underwent a total overhaul as Prime Minister, with the advent of television into British politics. US President Lyndon Johnson, not remembered for his good looks, had extra inches added to his shirt collars to hide his distracting Adam's apple. President Jimmy Carter donned woolly cardigans for his fireside chats to Americans during the energy crisis in the late 1970s, to urge people to turn their thermostats down and to bundle up inside – just as he and his family did at the White House.
現代政壇的所有領導人物都有自己的形象顧問。不僅僅是寫出令人難忘的演講，而是教他們表演技巧以提高他們的表達能力，並指導他們「權力著裝」。隨著電視進入英國政壇，哈羅德·麥克米蘭在擔任首相期間經歷了全面改革。美國總統林登·約翰遜（Lyndon Johnson）並不因其英俊的外表而被人們所銘記，他在襯衫領子上增加了額外的英寸，以隱藏他那令人分心的喉結。 1970 年代末能源危機期間，吉米·卡特(Jimmy Carter) 總統穿著羊毛開襟衫與美國人進行爐邊談話，敦促人們關掉恆溫器並在室內穿得暖暖的——就像他和家人在白宮所做的那樣。

Everyone worldwide watched with fascination the gradual but profound transformation of Britain's first woman Prime Minister. Everything from how Mrs. Thatcher spoke - she was coached to lower her voice and to speak more deliberately to the colour and styling of her hair, make-up and clothes was fine-tuned before our eyes.
全世界的每個人都著迷地看著英國第一位女首相逐漸而深刻的轉變。從柴契爾夫人的說話方式——她被訓練要放低聲音、更謹慎地說話，到她頭髮的顏色和造型、化妝和衣服，一切都在我們眼前進行了微調。

Even Thatcher's successor, Britain's self-confessed 'plug-ugly' John Major, has taken advice. It is hard to believe, but his charmingly nondescript image has been discreetly revamped. The sombre grey suits have been replaced by quality Chester Barries, the ties are a little less conservative, his blue shirts which emphasised his beard line are now pink or soft white, and a non-reflective coating has been added to the lenses of his glasses. The impact of these changes has been modest but it's as far as Mr. Major is willing to go - for the moment.
就連柴契爾夫人的繼任者、英國自認「醜陋」的約翰·梅傑也採納了建議。令人難以置信的是，他那迷人的、不起眼的形像已經被小心翼翼地改頭換面了。深灰色西裝已被優質切斯特·巴里斯（Chester Barries）所取代，領帶不再那麼保守，強調鬍鬚線條的藍色襯衫現在變成了粉紅色或柔和的白色，眼鏡鏡片上添加了不反光塗層。這些變化的影響雖然不大，但目前僅限於梅傑先生願意做的範圍內。

POLITICIANS' PARTNERS
政治家的合作夥伴

Political spouses, generally wives, are increasingly subjected to comment about their images and how they help or detract from the nation's image abroad. The wives even get photographed together and scored according to their standing in the style stakes.
政治配偶（通常是妻子）越來越多地受到有關其形像以及他們如何幫助或損害國家海外形象的評論。妻子們甚至會一起合影，並根據她們在時尚賭注中的排名進行評分。

First Lady Hillary Clinton had to undergo a substantial make-over during the 1992 Presidential campaign because her severe 'career woman' image was costing her husband votes. Functional glasses were replaced with contact lenses, her naturally mousey hair was highlighted golden
第一夫人希拉蕊·柯林頓 (Hillary Clinton) 在 1992 年總統競選期間不得不進行大幅改頭換面，因為她嚴肅的「職業女性」形象導致她丈夫失去選票。功能性眼鏡換成了隱形眼鏡，天生的老鼠色頭髮被染成金色

145

Hillary Clinton before her substantial make- over (left) and after (right)
希拉蕊·柯林頓大變身前（左）和大變身後（右）

PRESENTING YOURSELF
展現自己

iste roo
伊斯特羅奧

blonde and her rather shapeless suits replaced by more figure-hugging knits. She even submitted her recipe for brownies against that of incumbent Barbara Bush and, surprisingly, won.
金髮女郎和她相當不成形的套裝被更貼身的針織衫所取代。她甚至提交了自己的布朗尼蛋糕食譜，與現任芭芭拉·布希的食譜進行對比，並令人驚訝地獲勝。

DEVELOPING A PUBLIC IMAGE
塑造大眾形象

If you are interested in preparing yourself for any role in public life it is wise to consider what you need to change before you are in the limelight. The last thing you want is for your image to become an issue - for it to appear that you need a 'going-over' in order to be more appealing to your public. A good public image may not be the main reason why you get the job, but it will help you be listened to and possibly believed in. A good image bridges gaps with people of different backgrounds, of different ages, and that is crucial whether you are a politician, a sales representative or, say, a charity worker.
如果您有興趣為公共生活中的任何角色做好準備，明智的做法是在成為眾人矚目的焦點之前考慮您需要做出哪些改變。您最不想看到的就是您的形象成為一個問題 - 看起來您需要「重新審視」才能對公眾更具吸引力。良好的公眾形象可能不是你獲得這份工作的主要原因，但它會幫助你被傾聽，甚至可能被信任。能獲得這份工作至關重要。

The first challenge in developing an image that will work for, not against you in public life is to remove or resolve any distractions. These might include a too distinctive hair-style, a gap in your teeth, looking unfit, or using irritating, habitual gestures. A poor quality voice is another great disadvantage that needs to be improved.
在公共生活中塑造一個對你有利而不是不利的形象的第一個挑戰是消除或解決任何干擾因素。這些可能包括過於獨特的髮型、牙齒有縫隙、看起來不健康或使用令人惱火的習慣性手勢。語音品質差是另一個需要改進的重大缺點。

IMAGE ADVICE
形象建議

Audit your physical appearance
審視你的外表

If you can't be objective about your appearance get others to tell you what two or three things need dealing with to help improve your image.
如果你不能客觀地對待自己的外表，請讓別人告訴你需要處理哪兩到三件事來幫助改善你的形象。

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Pay attention to your face, in particular, as this will be the focus of your television interviews. Is your grooming first-rate? Is your skin in good condition or would it benefit from occasional facials?
尤其要注意你的臉，因為這將是你電視採訪的焦點。你的打扮是一流的嗎？您的皮膚狀況良好嗎？

Visit the dental hygienist three times a year, to keep your teeth as white as possible. Consider having bad teeth improved by cosmetic dentistry, such as capping.
每年去看三次牙齒保健員，盡可能保持牙齒潔白。考慮透過美容牙科（例如蓋帽）來改善壞牙。

The eyes have it
眼睛有它

Your eyes are vital to your effectiveness as a communicator. Are yours shown in the best possible light? Always define them with kohl pencil and soft eye-shadow, and accentuate your eyebrows. Always wear mascara. Tweeze or wax away unsightly hairs between your brows to look more groomed. Be sure your glasses are tinted with a non-reflective coating but not colour tinted, as this would hide your eyes.
作為溝通者，您的眼睛對於您的溝通效率至關重要。你的作品是否以最好的方式展現？始終用眼線筆和柔和的眼影勾勒出眉毛的輪廓，並突出眉毛。始終塗睫毛膏。用鑷子或蠟除掉眉毛間難看的毛髮，讓自己看起來更整齊。確保您的眼鏡塗有非反射塗層，但不是彩色的，因為這會隱藏您的眼睛。

Not a hair out of place
一根頭髮都沒有錯位

If your hair is unruly and difficult to control, see a good stylist to advise you on a better cut, and possibly a soft perm or any other necessary treatment to make it more manageable. If you are going grey, and it isn't flattering, consider a rinse closer to your natural colour. Use hairspray every day, if your hair is fine, to keep it in place. If you have a good head of hair worn in a short style, use a little gel, rubbed between your two hands then lightly 'brushed' through your hair to keep it in place but still allow movement.
如果你的頭髮不規則且難以控制，請諮詢一位優秀的造型師，他會建議你更好地剪髮，可能還可以進行軟燙或任何其他必要的處理，以使其更易於打理。如果你的髮色變灰了，而且不好看，可以考慮用更接近你自然顏色的沖洗液。如果你的頭髮很細，每天使用髮膠來保持頭髮的定型。如果你有一頭很好的短髮，可以使用一點髮膠，在兩隻手之間摩擦，然後輕輕地「刷」過你的頭髮，使其保持在適當的位置，但仍允許移動。

Get fit!
健身吧！

A lumpy, lethargic person can't fake fitness by simply picking up their pace when in the public eye. You need to be trim (not necessarily slim!) for your size, and show a vigour that only comes from eating well and getting enough rest and exercise. Far too many public figures allow their schedules to be punishing. Such self-abuse eventually makes itself evident, so be in control of your life. Build both exercise and rest into your daily diary.
一個身材魁梧、昏昏欲睡的人無法透過在公眾視線中加快步伐來假裝健康。您需要根據自己的身材保持苗條（不一定是苗條！），並表現出只有透過良好飲食、充分休息和運動才能獲得的活力。太多的公眾人物讓他們的日程安排變得很痛苦。這種自虐最終會變得明顯，所以要控制你的生活。將運動和休息納入您的日常日記中。

If you do become run down, try to get away to a health farm for at least a weekend and allow yourself to unwind and be pampered. Or, at least, resolve to leave your work problems behind for the weekend and treat yourself to a couple of days of total relaxation. And do just that.
如果您確實感到疲憊不堪，請嘗試前往健康農場至少一個週末，讓自己放鬆身心並得到照顧。或者，至少，下定決心把工作問題留在週末，讓自己享受幾天徹底的放鬆。就這樣做。

Show some personality
展現一些個性

Whenever you're making a public appearance, avoid looking like a clone of anyone else. Always wear a dash of colour unless the occasion is very serious.
每當您公開露面時，請避免看起來像其他人的克隆人。除非場合非常嚴肅，否則總是穿一點顏色的衣服。

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展現自己

Look approachable
看起來平易近人

If you represent a public group or company of any kind, look as if people could actually come up to you and ask a question or have a conversation. Don't look so serious, or take yourself so seriously that you put off the very people you wish to attract.
如果您代表任何類型的公共團體或公司，看起來就好像人們真的可以向您提出問題或進行對話。不要顯得那麼嚴肅，或把自己看得太嚴肅，否則你會推遲你想吸引的人。

Always be aware of how you sit, your gestures and your facial expressions. Don't sit ramrod straight; move forward, shift slightly, tilt your head when you are supposed to be listening and smile whenever you have the opportunity, when it is appropriate to do so. Touch people when you meet them not allowing excessive bear-hugs or kisses - but offering a forthright handshake, a touch on the upper arm, softly squeezing a hand to show that you really reach out to people. A simple touch conveys that individual people matter to you and they will respond accordingly.
隨時注意你的坐姿、手勢和臉部表情。不要坐直；向前移動，稍微移動，在應該傾聽的時候傾斜頭部，並在有機會、適當的時候微笑。當你見到別人時觸摸他們，不要過度擁抱或親吻，而是直接握手、觸摸上臂、輕輕握緊一隻手，以表明你真的向人們伸出援手。一個簡單的觸摸就能傳達出個人對你很重要，他們會做出相對應的反應。

If you are asked to appear on weekend TV for an interview, don't appear in a business suit. Real people at home watching you are probably in casual wear. You can't appear in a tracksuit, unless participating in some sporting event, but you can and should 'dress down'. Try a casual skirt and pretty blouse, or, if trousers suit you and are more your style, try an elegant pair with a colourful knit top. Your make-up and grooming must still be first-rate.
如果您被要求出現在周末電視上接受採訪，請不要穿著西裝出現。真正在家看著你的人可能穿著休閒服。除非參加某些體育賽事，否則您不能穿著運動服出現，但您可以而且應該「穿著便服」。嘗試休閒裙子和漂亮襯衫，或者，如果褲子適合您並且更符合您的風格，請嘗試優雅的搭配彩色針織上衣。你的化妝和打扮仍然必須是一流的。

148

CONCLUSION
結論

'To Thine
致你的

Own Self be True'
真實的自己”

here you have it. All our up-to-date advice on how to present the best I of the many suggestions contained in this book. For unless you evaluate honestly who you are today and how you come across to others, defining the areas in which you need to improve your image, how are you to grow? You can't expect others to appreciate your abilities, if you deny them yourself by projecting an image that suggests only negative things about you.
在這裡你有它。我們所有關於如何呈現本書中眾多建議中最好的建議的最新建議。因為除非你誠實地評估你今天是誰以及你給別人的印像如何，確定你需要改善形象的領域，否則你如何成長？如果你透過投射出只暗示你負面的形象來否定你的能力，你就不能指望別人欣賞你的能力。

I hope that you will now have a sense of direction and a list of priority steps to take. Maybe you will sign-up for a Presentation Skills course to confront your fear of public speaking, having learned how vital it is further in your career. Perhaps you will have the inspiration to smarten up an indifferent wardrobe, realising that your clothes simply aren't doing you justice. With the guidelines you now have on selecting colours and styles, and building a co-ordinating wardrobe you can easily recreate your image within your own budget. It needn't cost a fortune, if you follow my advice.
我希望您現在已經有了方向感並列出了要採取的優先步驟。也許您會報名參加演講技巧課程，以應對您對公開演講的恐懼，因為您了解到這對您的職業生涯有多重要。也許你會得到靈感，讓平庸的衣櫥煥然一新，因為你意識到你的衣服根本不適合你。根據您現在選擇顏色和款式以及建造協調衣櫃的指南，您可以在自己的預算內輕鬆地重新塑造您的形象。如果你聽從我的建議，這並不需要花很多錢。

I trust you accept that even though your image may have worked fairly well for you thus far, it might not be what's needed to help you in the future. Fine-tuning is needed throughout your career. So don't ever rest on your laurels. Do something about those weaknesses in your own image, those roadblocks to further success.
我相信你會接受這樣一個事實：儘管到目前為止你的形象可能對你來說相當有效，但它可能不是你將來所需要的。在你的整個職業生涯中都需要微調。所以永遠不要固步自封。針對你自己形像中的那些弱點和進一步成功的障礙採取一些行動。

Above all, remember that the packaging and the art of presenting yourself must be true to the real you inside. A new image won't turn you into someone else; it will make more of you, who you are. An improved image will give you a tremendous boost in confidence. But it is up to you to see the job through.
最重要的是，請記住，包裝和展示自己的藝術必須忠於內心真實的你。新的形像不會把你變成另外一個人；它會讓你更了解你，了解你是誰。改善的形象會帶給你巨大的信心提升。但完成這項工作取決於你。

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展現自己

If my advice helps to get you through doors previously closed to you, over hurdles you would never have contemplated jumping and, most importantly, feeling better about yourself, then I will consider my efforts to have been worthwhile. I wish you well.
如果我的建議能幫助你穿過以前向你關閉的大門，越過你從未想過要跳躍的障礙，最重要的是，讓你自我感覺更好，那麼我會認為我的努力是值得的。祝你一切順利。

Mom Sillan
媽媽西蘭

50 150

Bibliography
參考書目

PRESENTATION SKILLS
演講技巧

Janner's Complete Speechmaker, Greville Janner, QC, MP (Century Business) How To Talk So People Listen, Sonya Hamlin (Thorsons) Never Be Nervous Again, Dorothy Sarnoff (Crown Books, NY) Personal Power, Philippa Davies (Piatkus) Power Communication Skills, Dr. Susan Baile (Career Track Publications, NY)
Janner 的完整演講者、Greville Janner，QC、MP（世紀商業）如何說話才能讓人們傾聽、Sonya Hamlin（Thorsons）永遠不會再緊張、Dorothy Sarnoff（Crown Books，紐約）個人力量、Philippa Davies（Piatkus）力量溝通技巧, Susan Baile 博士（Career Track Publications，紐約）

Power Presentations, Brody and Kent (Wiley)
強力演示，布羅迪和肯特 (Wiley)

Powerspeak, Dorothy Leeds (Piatkus)
Powerspeak，多蘿西·利茲（Piatkus）

HANDLING TV
處理電視

Communications and the Modern World, Ken Ward (Macmillan) Understanding Media, Marshall McLuhan (Ark Paperbacks) You Are The Message, Roger Ailes and John Krausmar (Dow Jones-Irwin)
《傳播與現代世界》、肯·沃德（麥克米倫）《理解媒體》、馬歇爾·麥克盧漢（方舟平裝本）《你就是信息》、羅傑·艾爾斯和約翰·克勞斯馬爾（道瓊斯-歐文）

Your Public Best, Lillian Brown (New Market Press)
你的公眾最佳，莉蓮布朗（新市場出版社）

CAREER DEVELOPMENT.
職業發展。

A Passion for Excellence, Tom Peters (Warner Books, NY) A Passion for Leadership, Tom Peters (Warner Books, NY) Breaking the Glass Ceiling, Ann Morrison, etc., Center for Creative
《追求卓越》，湯姆彼得斯（紐約華納圖書）《領導熱情》，湯姆彼得斯（紐約華納圖書）《打破玻璃天花板》，安莫里森等，創意中心

Leadership (Addison-Wesley, USA)
領導力（艾迪生韋斯利，美國）

The 7 Habits of Highly Effective People, Stephen R Covey (Simon & Schuster)
《高效能人士的七個習慣》，史蒂芬‧柯維（西蒙與舒斯特）

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