Where Rome's insider food queen Katie Parla eats in her hometown
罗马的内幕美食女王凯蒂-帕拉（Katie Parla）在家乡的用餐地点
Getty Images 盖蒂图片社Food writer Katie Parla has dedicated her life to Roman food and hates tourist food traps. Here are her insider picks from comfort food at Tram Tram to gelato at Otaleg.
美食作家凯蒂-帕拉（Katie Parla）毕生致力于罗马美食，痛恨旅游美食陷阱。从 Tram Tram 的舒适美食到 Otaleg 的冰淇淋，这里都是她的内行精选。
The SpeciaList 特殊清单
The New York Times bestselling author of Tasting Rome (2016) and Food of the Italian Islands (2023), Katie Parla has been based in Rome since 2003, where she leads private walking culinary tours and creates insider Italian culinary content for Instagram and YouTube. Parla has written, edited or contributed to over 35 cookbooks (a forthcoming title hits shelves in 2025), and she has regular bylines in publications like Condé Nast Traveler and Eater. She has also consulted on and appeared in various culinary television series including Bizarre Foods with Andrew Zimmern and CNN's Searching for Italy with Stanley Tucci.
凯蒂-帕拉（Katie Parla）是《纽约时报》畅销书《品尝罗马》（2016 年）和《意大利岛屿美食》（2023 年）的作者，自 2003 年起常驻罗马，带领私人徒步美食之旅，并为 Instagram 和 YouTube 制作意大利美食内幕内容。Parla 撰写、编辑或参与撰写的烹饪书超过 35 本（即将出版的新书将于 2025 年上架），她还经常在《Condé Nast Traveler》和《Eater》等出版物上发表文章。她还为多部烹饪电视连续剧提供顾问服务并参与其中，包括安德鲁-齐默恩（Andrew Zimmern）的《奇异美食》（Bizarre Foods）和美国有线电视新闻网（CNN）的《寻找意大利》（Searching for Italy with Stanley Tucci）。
Rome: eternally beautiful, eternally touristed. In 2023, a record 35 million visitors trooped through the Eternal City to see iconic sights like the Trevi Fountain and the Colosseum. Rome's restaurants are no less touristed, with lines down the ancient streets for TikTok-trending pasta alla carbonara and tourist trap restaurants with multi-language menus. Combined with central Italy's soaring summer heat, it's enough to make you lose your appetite.
罗马：永恒的美丽，永恒的游客。2023 年，创纪录的 3500 万游客涌入这座永恒之城，参观许愿泉和斗兽场等标志性景点。罗马的餐馆也不乏游客，在古老的街道上排队购买 TikTok 流行的碳烤意大利面和提供多种语言菜单的旅游陷阱餐馆。再加上意大利中部夏季的高温，足以让人食欲不振。
We spoke to Katie Parla, renowned Rome-based food writer and tour guide, to help us skip the insanity and find Rome's best insider eats. A champion of Rome's gritty outer quartieri (districts), Parla is "obsessed" with getting visitors out of the centre. "If you need to eat Roman classics within 100ft of the Pantheon, I can help you," she says. "If you need to sit in the Pantheon square to do it, I'm not your person."
我们采访了著名的罗马美食作家兼导游凯蒂-帕拉（Katie Parla），她帮助我们跳过疯狂，找到了罗马最棒的内部美食。作为罗马外围街区（gritty outer quartieri）的拥护者，Parla "痴迷 "于让游客走出市中心。"她说："如果你需要在万神殿 100 英尺范围内品尝罗马经典美食，我可以帮你。"如果你需要坐在万神殿广场上吃，我可帮不了你。
Despite her distaste for tourist food traps, Parla, who moved to Rome in 2003 and describes her 21-year "obsession" with her adopted hometown as "not rational", is forever enthusiastic about its culinary scene. "We're in such an exciting moment," she says. "In the era of Covid, while there was a little contraction of the restaurant world, we have this resurgence now where you have pizza-by-the-slice joints [and] an incredible array of thoughtful coffee bars with great pastry programmes that also do savoury things at lunch."
Parla 于 2003 年移居罗马，她将自己对故乡长达 21 年的 "痴迷 "形容为 "非理性"，尽管她对游客的美食陷阱深恶痛绝，但她对罗马的烹饪界却永远充满热情。"我们正处在一个激动人心的时刻，"她说。"她说："在科维德时代，虽然餐饮业略有萎缩，但现在我们又重新崛起了，这里有披萨饼店，有令人难以置信的一系列体贴的咖啡吧，有很棒的糕点项目，午餐时也有美味佳肴。
Parla loves Rome's traditional flavours – cod, guanciale (pork jowl), fava beans, artichokes, the quinto quarto (offal) – and its classic dishes like cacio e pepe, but encourages visitors to step outside of the touristy centre and their culinary comfort zone. "I don't have time for any g*dd*mn tourist traps and neither should you," she declares.
Parla 热爱罗马的传统风味--鳕鱼、豚骨、蚕豆、朝鲜蓟、quinto quarto（内脏）--以及 cacio e pepe 等经典菜肴，但她鼓励游客走出旅游中心，走出自己的美食舒适区。"她宣称："我没有时间去旅游，你们也不应该去。
Here are Parla's favourite insider eats in Rome.
以下是 Parla 最喜欢的罗马内部美食。
AlamyRigatoni alla pajata 只是圣洛伦索 Tram Tram 餐厅供应的美味罗马舒适食物之一（图片来源：Alamy）
1. Best comfort food: Tram Tram (San Lorenzo)
1.最舒适的食物电车电车（圣洛伦索）
Roman food is comfort food, so Parla's first pick is Tram Tram, a family-owned trattoria in the San Lorenzo neighbourhood, adjacent to Termini train station. "Total bomb trattoria," says Parla. "It's on one of the more aesthetically challenged streets in Rome, but the food within is incredible."
How to spot a tourist food trap
如何识别旅游食品陷阱
"Touristy food has no identity behind it. A bunch of random Italian dishes slapped on the menu responding specifically to a tourist demand [like] Bolognese and Alfredo and pasta e fagioli and carbonara and pesto, which is what you would find in an airport; not in a quality food place in Rome."
"旅游食品背后没有特色。菜单上随意摆放的一堆意大利菜肴都是为了迎合游客的需求，[比如]肉酱、阿尔弗雷多、意大利面、碳烤意大利面和香蒜酱，这些都是你在机场能找到的，而不是在罗马的优质餐厅能找到的"。
Tram Tram, a San Lorenzo institution since the 1940s, is situated on a graffiti-streaked block near a ring road leading to the city's bleak outskirts. "San Lorenzo suffered during the Second World War," Parla points out. "People forget that Italy lost the war."
Tram Tram 电车是圣洛伦索自 20 世纪 40 年代以来的老字号，坐落在通往城市荒凉郊区的环城路附近的一个涂鸦满布的街区。"帕尔拉指出："圣洛伦索在第二次世界大战期间遭受了苦难。"人们忘记了意大利输掉了战争。
The trattoria, true to its name, is found near the neighbourhood's tram tracks. "The owners are lovely," says Parla. "You'll find Roman classics, like rigatoni with pajata (calf rennet) but then you'll also find fave e cicoria (fava beans with chicory greens)."
店如其名，位于附近的有轨电车轨道附近。"店主非常可爱，"Parla 说。"你会发现罗马经典菜肴，如意大利通心粉配小牛肉凝乳酶，但你也会发现蚕豆配菊苣菜"。
Parla also notes that Tram Tram is vegetarian and pescatarian friendly – a rarity in pork-rich Roman cuisine. "And it feels like you walked into like an old-school workers' cafeteria, decor-wise," adds Parla. "So, it has this very unassuming, super-down-to-earth feel, but the food is excellent and the wine list is spectacular. And it's affordable."
Parla 还指出，Tram Tram 对素食和鱼类也很友好，这在盛产猪肉的罗马菜肴中实属罕见。"Parla 补充说："从装饰上看，这里给人的感觉就像是走进了一家老式的工人食堂。"因此，这里给人一种非常朴实无华的感觉，但食物非常美味，酒单也非常壮观。而且价格实惠。
Website: http://www.tramtram.it/
网站： http://www.tramtram.it/
Address: Via dei Reti, 44, 00185 Roma RM
地址： Via dei Reti, 44, 00185 Roma RMVia dei Reti, 44, 00185 Roma RM
Phone: +39 06 490416 电话：+39 06 490416+39 06 490416
Facebook: Tram Tram Osteria
Facebook：Tram Tram Osteria
Alamy加尔巴泰拉的 Pantera 披萨店是一家新开业的披萨片店，提供老式披萨片（图片来源：Alamy）
2. Best pizza by the slice: Pantera (Garbatella)
2.最好的单片披萨潘特拉（加尔巴特拉）
Parla is a megafan of chef Gabriele Bonci's Pizzarium – a gourmet pizza by the slice stand near the Vatican Museums – but, "Bonci's very much on the radar already," she explains.
Parla 是大厨加布里埃尔-邦奇（Gabriele Bonci）的 Pizzarium（梵蒂冈博物馆附近的一家美食披萨摊）的超级粉丝，但她解释说："邦奇已经在我们的雷达上了。
When to visit 何时参观
"People sleep on visiting Italy in the winter. It's actually magical and it's 65F (18C) at Christmas the last few years."
"人们在冬天都睡不着觉。实际上，这里很神奇，最近几年的圣诞节气温都在华氏 65 度（摄氏 18 度）。
Parla's current ultra-insider pizza by the slice tip is Pantera, found in sleepy Garbatella. "'A classic slicery," she says. "They have the rossa (pizza with tomato sauce) with an herb oil and garlic drizzle on top. Super simple."
目前，Parla 最推荐的超内行切片披萨店是位于沉睡的加尔巴泰拉的 Pantera。"她说："这是一家经典的切片披萨店。"他们的罗萨比萨（番茄酱比萨）上面淋有香草油和大蒜。超级简单。
Pantera is owned by the Trecastelli brothers, renowned for their Neo trattoria, Trecca, and their modern craft beer/natural wine bar Circoletto. But Pantera? "Old school," says Parla. "You get that ham and cheese pizza. The potato slices with rosemary; it's crispy and it's chewy and it's so satisfying. Super affordable." Also old-school are the supplì – deep-fried risotto balls that, as Parla notes, come in just the traditional tomato-and-mozzarella variety. "There aren't 15 different flavours," says Parla. "Not hating on that; I like that. But we're talking about a place that opened maybe seven months ago but feels like it's been there for a long time."
Pantera 的所有者是 Trecastelli 兄弟，他们的新派餐厅 Trecca 和现代手工啤酒/天然葡萄酒酒吧 Circoletto 享负盛名。但 Pantera 呢？Parla说："老派"。"你可以吃到火腿奶酪披萨。马铃薯片配迷迭香；既酥脆又有嚼劲，非常令人满意。超级实惠。同样老派的还有油炸意大利调味饭团（supplì），正如 Parla 所说，只有传统的番茄和马苏里拉奶酪口味。"没有 15 种不同的口味，"Parla 说。"我不是讨厌这些，我喜欢这些。但我们说的是一家开业七个月左右的餐厅，但感觉它已经开业很久了。
Parla also loves the location. "You're in walking distance of the Garbatella public housing structures, which are just so stunning and so characteristic of the architecture that defined Rome in the early 20th Century."
Parla 也很喜欢这里的地理位置。"您步行即可到达加尔巴泰拉公共住宅区，那里的建筑令人叹为观止，是 20 世纪初罗马建筑的典型代表。
Website: Pantera Garbatella
网站：黑豹加尔巴泰拉
Address: Circonvallazione Ostiense 153, Rome, Italy
地址：Circonvallazione Ostiense 153, Rome, Italy
Phone: +39 06 9500 8710
电话：+39 06 9500 8710+39 06 9500 8710
Instagram: @pantera_garbatella
Instagram：@pantera_garbatella
Andrea di Lorenzo 安德烈亚-迪-洛伦佐托尔皮格纳塔拉（Tor Pignattara）的 A Rota 供应美味的罗马风味个人平底锅通达披萨，有经典款和美食款（图片来源：Andrea di Lorenzo）。
3. Best sit-down pizzeria: A Rota (Tor Pignattara)
3.最好的坐式比萨店A Rota (Tor Pignattara)
In Italy, not all pizza is created equally.
在意大利，并非所有披萨都是一样的。
"Rome has many, many pizza styles," explains Parla. "The everyday fast food is sold by weight in slices; eaten standing up. But we also have wood-fired pizza spots that do round personal pies that are rolled flat, crushing the bubbles. They don't have the raised edge that Neapolitan pizzas do. A Rota in Tor Pignattara is so excellent."
"罗马有很多很多的披萨款式，"Parla 解释说。"日常快餐是按重量切片出售，站着吃。但我们也有木柴烧制的披萨店，他们制作的圆形个人披萨是平卷的，压碎了气泡。它们不像那不勒斯披萨那样有凸起的边缘。托尔皮格纳塔拉的罗塔披萨就非常出色"。
A Rota is helmed by Sami el Sabawy, formerly of Pizzarium. "The leavening is perfect. The toppings are delicious," says Parla. "They've got a great range of fritti (fried starters); in Rome, we don't start with pizza, we eat fried things first. I love their fiori di zucca (zucchini blossoms) with mozzarella and anchovy inside." She adds, "They definitely do classics; you can get a capricciosa (pizza with artichokes, mushrooms, ham and olives) but they also do a monthly pizza... Something that isn't a classic but it's bringing you great Italian ingredients and toppings on a light and crispy base."
A Rota 由前 Pizzarium 的 Sami el Sabawy 掌舵。"发面非常完美。配料非常美味，"帕拉说。"在罗马，我们不从比萨饼开始，而是先吃油炸食品。我喜欢他们的西葫芦花（fiori di zucca），里面有马苏里拉芝士和凤尾鱼。她还说："他们肯定会做经典披萨；你可以吃 capricciosa 披萨（洋蓟、蘑菇、火腿和橄榄披萨），但他们也会做每月披萨......虽然不是经典披萨，但却能在轻脆的饼底上为您带来美味的意大利食材和配料"。
The family-friendly spot also attracts "lots of couples", says Parla. "It's a cute date spot because they have a good wine and beer selection. You can bring your grandma… It's great. Everybody goes."
Parla 说，这个适合家庭的地方还吸引了 "很多情侣"。"这是一个可爱的约会地点，因为他们有很好的葡萄酒和啤酒选择。你可以带着奶奶来......这里很棒。每个人都会来"。
Website: https://www.facebook.com/arotapizzeria/
网站： https://www.facebook.com/arotapizzeria/
Address: Via di Tor Pignattara, 190, 00177 Roma RM
地址： Via di Tor Pignattara, 190, 00177 Roma RMVia di Tor Pignattara, 190, 00177 Roma RM
Phone: +39 345 547 9532
电话：+39 345 547 9532+39 345 547 9532
Instagram: @arotapizzeria
Instagram：@arotapizzeria
Ristorante da Michele 米歇尔餐厅罗马可能并不以海鲜而闻名，但圣保罗的达米歇尔餐厅（Da Michele）却有质量上乘的新鲜鱼类菜肴，比如上等的炸沙丁鱼（图片来源：达米歇尔餐厅
4. Best seafood: Da Michele (San Paolo)
4.最佳海鲜达米歇尔（圣保罗）
"Not the [famous Neapolitan] pizzeria!" Parla clarifies. "We're in San Paolo; the neighbourhood where the Saint Paul Outside the Walls basilica is located." And this Da Michele is a family-owned seafood restaurant.
"不是[著名的那不勒斯]比萨店！"Parla 解释道。"我们在圣保罗，也就是墙外圣保罗大教堂所在的街区"。这家 Da Michele 是一家家族经营的海鲜餐厅。
Seafood? In offal-obsessed Rome? "Unbelievable quality fish," emphasises Parla. "Which in Rome is a challenge. Even though we're 13 miles from the sea, a lot of the fish is not local or fresh. Da Michele, I don't know who their plug is, but they have an excellent purveyor of fish coming from the Lazio coast."
海鲜？在崇尚内脏的罗马？"帕尔拉强调说："鱼的品质令人难以置信。"在罗马，这是个挑战。虽然我们离海有 13 英里，但很多鱼都不是本地的，也不新鲜。Da Michele，我不知道他们的插头是谁，但他们有一个来自拉齐奥海岸的优秀鱼贩。
Parla's description of Da Michele's fish dishes is a siren song: "Crazy delicious fried anchovies to start," she says. "Excellent in-season puntarelle (chicory) with alici fritte (fried anchovies); a twist on the typical salted anchovy dressing. Then there are super-simple classics like sauteed mussels; delicious, plump, juicy. Spaghetti with vongole veraci (carpet-shell clams) and verza croccante (crunchy Savoy cabbage); adding a little bit of seasonal produce into a classic. The frittura di paranza (fried mixed catch); excellent."
Parla 对 Da Michele 鱼类菜肴的描述就像一首诱惑之歌："她说："首先是美味可口的炸凤尾鱼。她说："上等的当季菊苣配上炸凤尾鱼；这是对典型的咸凤尾鱼调味料的一种创新。还有一些超级简单的经典菜肴，如清炒贻贝；美味、丰满、多汁。地毯壳蛤蜊意面（Spaghetti with vongole veraci）和脆脆的萨瓦卷心菜意面（verza croccante）；在经典中加入了一点时令食材。frittura di paranza（油炸杂鱼）；味道极佳"。
Parla also champions the French-influenced wine list and the festive vibe. "Whenever I go, there's always someone celebrating their 99th birthday," she says. "This is where you take your great grandma. You bring a cake, you fill the place with balloons and everyone in the place ends up celebrating with great-grandma."
Parla 对充满法国风情的酒单和节日氛围也赞不绝口。"她说："每次我去的时候，总有人在庆祝自己的 99 岁生日。"这是你带曾祖母来的地方。你带上蛋糕，在这里放满气球，最后这里的每个人都会和曾祖母一起庆祝。
Website: https://www.ristorantedamicheleroma.it/
网站： https://www.ristorantedamicheleroma.it/
Address: Via Tiberio Imperatore, 93, 00145 Roma RM
地址： Via Tiberio Imperatore, 93, 00145 Roma RMVia Tiberio Imperatore, 93, 00145 Roma RM
Phone: +3906 540 4352 电话：+3906 540 4352+3906 540 4352
Edoardo Iervolino 埃达尔多-埃尔沃里诺Parla 最喜欢 Centocelle 的 Menabó，因为那里的意大利菜极具创意和现代感（图片来源：Edoardo Iervolino）
5. Best for a break from carbonara: Menabó (Centocelle)
5.最适合小憩的地方：Menabó（Centocelle）
Sometimes you need a break from traditional Roman food. "We all do," admits Parla, whose next pick, Menabó, is in the rugged urban sprawl of Centocelle – the former stomping grounds of Roman culinary power duo Marco Baccanelli and Francesca Barreca of Mazzo (now in San Lorenzo). "Menabó is the best for restrained contemporary Italian," says Parla, of the stylish bistrot run by brothers Paolo and Daniele Camponeschi. "It doesn't serve a specific regional cuisine. They're doing roasted pork neck with spicy caponata (eggplant and potato stew). Those things exist independently in Italy, but they're being joined here."
有时候，你需要从传统的罗马美食中解脱出来。帕尔拉承认："我们都需要休息。"他的下一个选择 Menabó 位于崎岖不平的森托塞勒（Centocelle），这里曾是罗马烹饪双雄马科-巴卡内利（Marco Baccanelli）和弗朗西斯卡-巴雷卡（Francesca Barreca）经营的马佐餐厅（现位于圣洛伦索）的所在地。Parla说："Menabó是最适合品尝内敛的当代意大利菜的地方，"Paolo和Daniele Camponeschi兄弟经营着这家时尚的小酒馆。"它不提供特定地区的菜肴。他们做的是烤猪颈肉配辣味 caponata（茄子土豆炖菜）。这些东西在意大利是独立存在的，但在这里却被结合在了一起"。
Parla also cites the Menabó's picchiapò (boiled meat) – "instead of beef they do it with veal" – and their macco di fave (fava bean stew), made with chickpeas. "They do pici [pasta] with mussels with tomatoes and friggitelli (shishito peppers) and lemon zest," says Parla. "The menu changes all the time but not in a way that's forced. They're really dialing things in seasonally and through repetition, they perfect things. You might find some Roman influence, but what they're really looking at is all of Italy; great ingredients and then bringing them together in delicious ways."
Parla 还提到了梅纳博的水煮肉（picchiapò）--"他们用小牛肉代替牛肉"，以及用鹰嘴豆制作的炖蚕豆（macco di fave）。"帕尔拉说："他们用贻贝做意大利面，配以西红柿、什锦辣椒和柠檬皮。"菜单一直在变，但并不勉强。他们根据季节调整菜品，通过不断重复，使菜品更加完美。你可能会发现一些罗马菜的影响，但他们真正关注的是整个意大利；上好的食材，然后用美味的方式将它们融合在一起。
Website: https://menabovinoecucina.it/
网站： https://menabovinoecucina.it/
Address: Via delle palme 44 D/E, Rome, Italy
地址意大利罗马棕榈街 44 D/E 号
Phone: +39 06 8693 7299
电话：+39 06 8693 7299+39 06 8693 7299
Getty Images 盖蒂图片社罗马市中心的 Cesare al Pellegrino 不仅拥有美味的食物，还拥有店主的招牌酒单（图片来源：Getty Images）
6. Best old-school comeback: Cesare al Pellegrino (Roma Centro)
6.最佳老派复出：Cesare al Pellegrino（罗马中心球场）
But as much as Parla loves exploring Rome's outer quartieri, there are some restaurants in the city centre she believes are worth wading through the crowds… and you won't have to queue. Like her next pick, Cesare al Pellegrino, just off Piazza Navona.
虽然 Parla 很喜欢探索罗马的外围街区，但她认为市中心的一些餐厅也值得您在人流中穿行......而且还不用排队。比如她的下一个选择，纳沃纳广场附近的 Cesare al Pellegrino。
"It's always surprising to me how easy it is to get a reservation at Cesare al Pellegrino," says Parla. "It's on Via Pellegrino and in one direction, you have hundreds of people standing in line for Osteria Fernanda and on the other, you have dozens of people in line for Barnum. Barnum is very good, but I'm not waiting in line for coffee, sorry."
"Parla 说："在 Cesare al Pellegrino 餐厅订位是一件非常容易的事，这一直让我感到惊讶。"它位于佩莱格里诺大街，一个方向有数百人在为费尔南达餐厅排队，另一个方向则有数十人在为巴纳姆排队。巴纳姆很不错，但我不会排队等咖啡，抱歉。
Parla's Barnum hack! Parla's Barnum hack！
"You just walk up to the counter and order coffee and don't have to sit down and wait!"
"你只需走到柜台前点咖啡，无需坐下等待！"
Cesare al Pellegrino is the current incarnation of the 1930s trattoria Settimio al Pellegrino. "It became super famous when [Anthony] Bourdain went there on Parts Unknown," says Parla. "When the couple [who ran it] retired, an incredible couple took it over – Maria Pia and Leonardo from Cesare al Casaletto."
Cesare al Pellegrino 是 20 世纪 30 年代 Settimio al Pellegrino 餐馆的前身。"Parla说："[Anthony] Bourdain在《未知的世界》（Parts Unknown）节目中去过那里后，这里就变得超级有名。"[经营它的]夫妇退休后，一对不可思议的夫妇接手了它--来自 Cesare al Casaletto 的 Maria Pia 和 Leonardo。
The tiny tavern stays true to its pre-war pedigree and serves satisfying classic Roman dishes like picchiapò and Roman-style cod. "What Cesare al Pellegrino provides is the dope wine list that Leonardo and Maria Pia are known for," says Parla. "It's not a super-ambitious menu that's trying to do everything. They have retained Settimio's meatballs, which are basically smash burgers. Yeah, that place rules. It has online booking, which is a game changer."
这家小酒馆秉承了战前的传统，提供令人满意的经典罗马菜肴，如 picchiapò 和罗马风味鳕鱼。"Parla 说："Cesare al Pellegrino 提供的是莱昂纳多和玛丽亚-皮娅闻名遐迩的一流酒单。"这不是一份什么都想做的超级雄心勃勃的菜单。他们保留了塞蒂米奥的肉丸，基本上就是粉碎汉堡。是啊，那个地方就是这样。它可以在线预订，这改变了游戏规则"。
Website: https://trattoriadacesare.it/trattoria-da-cesare-al-pellegrino/
网站： https://trattoriadacesare.it/trattoria-da-cesare-al-pellegrino/
Address: Via Del Pellegrino, 117 00186 Roma
地址： Via Del Pellegrino, 117 00186 RomaVia Del Pellegrino, 117 00186 Roma
Phone: 06 68801978 电话：06 6880197806 68801978
Instagram: @trattoriadacesare
Instagram：@trattoriadacesare
Otaleg 奥塔莱格位于特拉斯提维尔的 Otaleg 制作的冰淇淋超级天然、超级美味（图片来源：Otaleg）
7. Best gelato: Otaleg (Trastevere)
7.最好的冰淇淋奥塔莱格（特拉斯提维里）
"It's gelato spelled backwards," says Parla of this teeny gelateria in beautiful, tourist-flocked Trastevere along the banks of the Tiber River. "It's in Trastevere's more residential area. It's super magical and all the flavours are perfect, especially the fruit sorbets. And I'm usually a pistachio lady, so if I'm getting fruit instead of pistachio that really says something."
帕尔拉（Parla）说："这是一种倒过来拼写的冰淇淋。"这家小冰淇淋店位于台伯河畔美丽、游客云集的特拉斯提韦尔（Trastevere）。"它位于特拉斯提韦尔的居民区。这里非常神奇，所有口味都非常完美，尤其是水果冰糕。我通常喜欢吃开心果，所以如果我吃的是水果而不是开心果，那就说明了问题。
Tip 提示
"I would say with one exception – Barnum – if there's a line, it's not good. It's famous on TikTok. I've never encountered a great place that also has a long line – yet."
"我想说，只有一个例外--《巴纳姆》--如果有台词，那就不好。它在 TikTok 上很有名。我还从来没有遇到过一个很棒的地方也要排很长的队。
Otaleg – "this narrow little hole in the wall, exposed beams" – is run by gelatiere Marco Radicioni. "His flavours are really spectacular and the ingredients are so good," says Parla. "It should have a line of 100 people but there's usually no one even there. He uses a very restrained amount of sugars, so instead of blasting your palate with sugar to mask the bad ingredients, which is what most gelato shops do, it's the amount of sugar that's necessary to enhance the experience, to enhance the flavour without losing any of the nuance."
Otaleg--"墙壁上的狭窄小洞，裸露的横梁"--由凝胶师 Marco Radicioni 经营。"帕尔拉说："他的口味真的很棒，配料也非常好。"这里本该有 100 人排队，但通常连一个人都没有。他对糖的用量非常节制，因此不会像大多数冰淇淋店那样，用糖来掩盖不好的配料，而是用必要的糖量来增强体验，在不损失任何细微差别的情况下增强味道。
Parla's challenge for the "adventurous traveller": Otaleg has a second location in Monteverde Vecchio that also does pastry and coffee.
Parla 为 "冒险旅行者 "提出的挑战：Otaleg 在蒙特维德维奇奥（Monteverde Vecchio）有第二家分店，也经营糕点和咖啡。
Website: https://www.otaleg.com/gusti-it/
网站： https://www.otaleg.com/gusti-it/
Address: Via di S.Cosimato,14a, Rome, Italy 00153
地址Via di S.Cosimato,14a，罗马，意大利 00153
Phone: +39 338 651 5450
电话：+39 338 651 5450+39 338 651 5450
Instagram: @otaleg.radicioni
Instagram：@otaleg.radicioni
Getty Images 盖蒂图片社美丽的特拉斯提弗列（Trastevere）游人如织，但您可以直接走进 Parla's paninoteca pick，品尝当地美酒（图片来源：Getty Images
8. Best panini: Trapizzino (Trastevere)
8.最佳帕尼尼Trapizzino（特拉斯提维里）
For a solid, non-social media viral Roman paninoteca experience that won't have you queuing around the block, Parla recommends Trapizzino; Stefano Callegari's barrier-smashing culinary mash up of pizza and a tramezzino (triangular bar sandwich).
如果您想在罗马的 Paninoteca 餐厅享受到非社交媒体病毒式传播的实实在在的体验，Parla 向您推荐 Trapizzino；Stefano Callegari 将披萨和三角形酒吧三明治（Tramezzino）混合在一起的美食，让您大开眼界。
"There are multiple locations," says Parla. "But there's one in Trastevere that has table service and also the most insane Lazio wine list. No one is on point like they are… And you can go there and have [amazing] wine and then your sandwich is a pizza pita for five bucks.
有多家分店，"Parla 说，"但在特拉斯提维里有一家分店提供餐桌服务，还有最疯狂的拉齐奥葡萄酒单。"但在特拉斯提维里有一家店提供餐桌服务，还有最疯狂的拉齐奥酒单。没有人比他们更出色了......你可以去那里喝[令人惊叹的]葡萄酒，然后花五块钱吃披萨皮塔三明治。
Trapizzini are cones of pizza dough, stuffed with Roman and pan-Italian ingredients, like pollo alla cacciatora (chicken and tomato stew) and eggplant Parmesan. "But if you need to dip your toe in the offal pool without committing to a whole plate, they've got tongue with parsley sauce," says Parla. "It's just a fun, clever Roman food invention. Everyone wants to eat in Trastevere and honestly most of the food in Trastevere is so grim. That place is just always super consistent [and] spot-on. Chaotic service, but if you've been in Rome for five minutes, you know, that's the norm."
Trapizzini 是一种圆锥形的披萨面团，里面塞满了罗马和意大利的配料，比如炖鸡肉和番茄茄子。"帕尔拉说："但如果你想吃点内脏，又不想整盘下肚，他们还有香芹酱舌头。"这只是一种有趣、巧妙的罗马美食发明。每个人都想在特拉斯提维里吃东西，但老实说，特拉斯提维里的大部分食物都很难吃。那个地方的食物总是超级一致[和]准确。服务很混乱，但如果你在罗马待过五分钟，你就会知道，这就是常态。
Website: https://www.trapizzino.it/
网站： https://www.trapizzino.it/
Address: Piazza Trilussa, 46, 00153 Roma RM
地址： Piazza Trilussa, 46, 00153 Roma RMPiazza Trilussa, 46, 00153 Roma RM
Phone: +39 06 581 7312
电话：+39 06 581 7312+39 06 581 7312
Instagram: @trapizzino Instagram：@trapizzino
Getty Images 盖蒂图片社是的，在许愿泉附近可以吃到美味可口的优质餐点（图片来源：Getty Images）
9. Best for cheeky couples (or people who can't get a reservation at Salumeria Roscioli): Baccano (Trevi Fountain)
9.最适合厚脸皮的情侣（或在 Salumeria Roscioli 订不到位的人）：巴卡诺（许愿泉）
If you wanted to impress, you could book a table at the viral Salumeria Roscioli – a month in advance. Or you could waltz into Baccano around the corner from the Trevi Fountain instead.
如果您想给人留下深刻印象，您可以提前一个月在病毒式的 Salumeria Roscioli 餐厅预订餐桌。或者，您也可以大摇大摆地走进许愿泉拐角处的巴卡诺餐厅。
"The chef from Roscioli moved there," says Parla. "It's this elegant space with tableside tiramisu. Fancy Romans go there. And everyone's gonna go to the Trevi Fountain anyway; they might as well have a good meal while they're doing it."
"Roscioli 的主厨搬到了那里，"Parla 说。"这是一个优雅的空间，有桌边提拉米苏。罗马人都喜欢去那里。反正每个人都要去许愿泉，不如在那里吃顿好的。
Baccano's ultra-chic menu ranges from Scottona beef burgers to a rainbow of cheese offerings, as well as chef Nabil Hassen's signature pastas, like homemade gnocchi with pesto and calamari, or spaghetti with butter and anchovies. "The ambiance is curated, the pastas are insane," says Parla. "You can just walk in and eat at the bar. Sometimes when you're on a date night, you just want to have something light and quick so you can be sexy. So you don't have to sit down for all the courses but just get a cheeky pasta, a glass of wine and be out… It has a huge number of covers so you can usually just walk in."
Baccano 的超时尚菜单从 Scottona 牛肉汉堡到彩虹奶酪，以及主厨纳比尔-哈森（Nabil Hassen）的招牌意大利面，如自制意大利面团配香蒜酱和鱿鱼，或意大利面配黄油和凤尾鱼。"Parla 说："这里的环境很有特色，意大利面也很美味。"你可以直接走进去，在吧台就餐。有时，在约会之夜，你只想吃点清淡快捷的东西，这样你就可以性感起来。因此，你不必坐下来吃所有的菜，只要吃上一份美味的意大利面，喝上一杯酒，就可以出去了......这里有大量的套餐，所以你通常可以直接走进去。
Apart from its romance-adjacent bar, Baccano has table seating, inside and out. For people who aren't in a rush.
除了与浪漫相邻的酒吧外，Baccano 还设有桌椅，里里外外都有。适合不赶时间的人。
Website: https://www.baccanoroma.com/
网站： https://www.baccanoroma.com/
Address: Via delle muratte 23, Rome Italy
地址意大利罗马 Via delle muratte 23
Phone: +39 06 699 41166
电话：+39 06 699 41166 +39 06 699 41166
Instagram: @baccanoroma Instagram：@baccanoroma
BBC Travel's The SpeciaList is a series of guides to popular and emerging destinations around the world, as seen through the eyes of local experts and tastemakers.
BBC Travel 的《The SpeciaList》是通过当地专家和品味人士的视角，介绍世界各地热门和新兴旅游目的地的系列指南。
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