Ten Days That Shook Ukraine’s World Reverberate in Defiant Kyiv
震撼乌克兰世界的十天在基辅激起反抗回响

With a sweep of her arm, the receptionist pointed out the hotel’s amenities: breakfast room, gym, lobby bar — and a basement shelter for use during air raids, with hot and cold running water, ventilation, and chairs.
接待员挥手指向酒店的设施：早餐室、健身房、大堂酒吧——以及一个供空袭时使用的地下避难所，里面配有冷热水、通风设备和椅子。

Kyiv has adapted during three years of full-scale war with Russia, absorbing existential threats and turning them into everyday routine. But even for a city inured to hostile forces, it’s been a head-spinning 10 days.
基辅在与俄罗斯全面战争的三年中不断适应，将生存威胁转化为日常生活的一部分。然而，即使对于习惯了敌对势力的城市来说，过去的十天也令人头晕目眩。

Ukraine is reeling from the abrupt US switch under President Donald Trump, from the staunchest of allies to what some now see as an appeaser of Moscow. Foreign diplomats in the capital were struggling to keep up: a deal to hand the US control over natural resources became a public quarrel in the White House and then the withdrawal of American support.
乌克兰正因美国总统唐纳德·特朗普的突然转变而措手不及，从最坚定的盟友变成了如今一些人眼中的莫斯科安抚者。驻首都的外交官们正努力跟上形势：一项将美国控制权交给自然资源的协议在白宫引发公开争吵，随后美国撤回了支持。

On the battlefield some 600 kilometers to the east, commanders are already assessing how to fight on without US military aid and intelligence. The sense is that the war is reaching a decisive phase.
在向东约 600 公里的战场上，指挥官们已经开始评估在没有美国军事援助和情报支持的情况下如何继续作战。人们感觉到战争正进入一个决定性阶段。

The US shift is as calamitous for Ukraine as it is shocking for European allies who scrambled to try and fill the void. But the mood remains defiant in Kyiv. Cars throng the streets and its designer stores and chic eateries are busy, all while deadly Russian attacks on civilian targets continue across the country — just with more impunity.
美国的转变对乌克兰来说是一场灾难，对急于填补空缺的欧洲盟友来说同样令人震惊。但基辅的士气依然顽强。街道上车辆川流不息，设计师品牌店和时尚餐厅生意兴隆，而俄罗斯对全国平民目标的致命袭击仍在继续——只是更加肆无忌惮。

“Our biggest advantage is not that we are so brave, so clever, it’s very simple: we don’t have other options,” Mustafa Nayyem, a deputy infrastructure minister until last year, said in a downtown Kyiv café. “Of course we are stressed, of course we are angry, but I don’t think it’s something that will bring us down.”
“我们最大的优势不是我们如此勇敢、如此聪明，而是非常简单：我们没有其他选择，”去年卸任基础设施部副部长的穆斯塔法·纳耶姆在基辅市中心的一家咖啡馆说道。“当然，我们感到压力重重，当然，我们愤怒不已，但我不认为这会将我们击垮。”

Ukrainians have been on the ropes before. At the war’s outbreak, Western allies gave them three days to hold out against the invasion, when Russian forces came very close to the capital, shelling buildings and the Kyiv TV tower. They subsequently faced issues over the delivery of US Javelin anti-tank missiles. US military aid was delayed for six months into last year when it was held up in Congress.
乌克兰人此前也曾陷入困境。战争爆发时，西方盟友预计他们只能抵挡入侵三天，当时俄军逼近首都，炮击建筑物和基辅电视塔。随后，他们在接收美国“标枪”反坦克导弹方面遇到了问题。美国的军事援助被国会拖延了六个月，直到去年才到位。

But few were expecting their allies to add to the challenge, and they know the net is closing, the path forward precarious.
但很少有人预料到他们的盟友会加剧这一挑战，他们知道网正在收紧，前方的道路岌岌可危。

Ukraine is already feeling the screws tightening due to the Trump administration’s onslaught. From spare parts to people, “our army has shortages of everything,” according to Pavlo Narozhnyy, founder of Reactive Post, which provides the military with spare parts.
乌克兰已经感受到特朗普政府施压带来的压力。据为军队提供备件的 Reactive Post 创始人帕夫洛·纳罗日尼称，从备件到人员，“我们的军队什么都缺。”

In downtown Kyiv, large concrete blocks and metal anti-tank obstacles sit piled up near major road arteries. Leftovers from the 2022 invasion, they are clearly still seen as needed in a city that’s used to displays of resilience.
在基辅市中心，大型混凝土块和金属反坦克障碍物堆积在主要交通干道附近。这些是 2022 年入侵留下的遗迹，显然，在这座习惯于展现韧性的城市中，它们仍被视为必需品。

“Those who are left here are hard core,” said Narozhnyy. He then picked up his phone to show an old black-and-white photograph of his great grandfather and told the story of how he was executed by the Russians in 1937. “I have two options: I could be depressed, drink vodka with my friends,” he said. “The other option is to fight.”
“留在这里的都是铁杆分子，”纳罗日尼说道。随后，他拿起手机展示了一张他曾祖父的黑白老照片，并讲述了 1937 年曾祖父如何被俄罗斯人处决的故事。“我有两个选择：要么沮丧消沉，和朋友们一起喝伏特加，”他说，“要么选择战斗。”

Ukrainians didn’t believe the US would act to undermine them, until it did. The fallout was rapid.
乌克兰人原本不相信美国会采取行动损害他们的利益，直到事实摆在眼前。后果迅速显现。

President Volodymyr Zelenskiy may be hailed in Europe as a hero, but the sentiment in Kyiv is more critical. Yet his approval ratings jumped and even opponents have rallied to his side following Trump’s accusation he was risking World War III, something previously levelled at Vladimir Putin.
泽连斯基总统在欧洲或许被誉为英雄，但在基辅，人们的看法更为审慎。然而，在特朗普指责他可能引发第三次世界大战——这一指控以往常指向普京——之后，他的支持率飙升，甚至反对者也纷纷站到了他的一边。

In his latest barb, Trump said on Friday that he’s confident Putin wants a peace accord and that he was finding it harder to deal with Ukraine.
特朗普在最新的一次攻击中表示，他确信普京希望达成和平协议，并发现自己越来越难以应对乌克兰问题。

In the meantime, the war goes on. This week, four were killed and at least 30 wounded in a missile attack on the city of Kryvyi Rih and 16 civilians, including a 7-year-old child, were injured in an overnight drone attack on the city of Kharkiv.
与此同时，战争仍在继续。本周，克里维里赫市遭遇导弹袭击，造成四人死亡，至少 30 人受伤；而在哈尔科夫市，一夜之间的无人机袭击导致 16 名平民受伤，其中包括一名 7 岁儿童。

As Zelenskiy went to Washington the previous Friday, power cuts were introduced in some areas of the country due to damaged infrastructure after Russia attacked with 166 Shahed drones, of which 90 were downed and 72 jammed.
泽连斯基上周五前往华盛顿之际，由于俄罗斯使用 166 架“沙赫德”无人机发动攻击，导致基础设施受损，乌克兰部分地区实施了停电措施。其中，90 架无人机被击落，72 架受到干扰。

The air raids usually come at night, sirens howling the warning to take cover. Kyiv, built on a series of hills, has one of the deepest metro stations in the world. At more than 100 meters down, it’s secure enough to offer protection to almost anything that Russia can field.
空袭通常发生在夜间，警报声呼啸着警告人们寻找掩护。基辅建在一系列山丘上，拥有世界上最深的地铁站之一。深入地下 100 多米，足以安全地抵御俄罗斯几乎任何武器的攻击。

Phone apps blare out air raid warnings as soon as an incoming trajectory is detected. Details of the type of UAV used are posted on Telegram chats: if it’s drones, people are relatively relaxed — they can be shot down by machine guns. Missiles are another matter.
手机应用程序一旦检测到来袭轨迹，便会立即发出空袭警报。关于所用无人机类型的详细信息会在 Telegram 聊天群中发布：如果是无人机，人们相对放松——它们可以用机枪击落。导弹则是另一回事。

American intelligence is a key component of air raid warnings, since the US has the capability to detect Russian missile-carrying jets when they take off as far as away as the Caspian Sea region. Ukraine has half a dozen US-made Patriot air-defense systems to take down missiles and the decision was to protect cities of more than 1 million inhabitants.
美国情报是空袭预警的关键组成部分，因为美国有能力在俄罗斯携带导弹的飞机从远至里海地区起飞时进行探测。乌克兰拥有六套美国制造的爱国者防空系统来拦截导弹，决定是保护人口超过 100 万的城市。

It’s a matter of conjecture how long supplies will last of the missiles Patriots fire. Some say six months, and everything is being done to avoid shooting them.
爱国者导弹的供应能持续多久是个猜测问题。有人说六个月，目前正尽一切努力避免发射它们。

For all the grim reality, life goes on in Kyiv. Statistics are hard to come by, but anecdotal evidence suggests there’s a consumer boom under way. With a lack of investment opportunities and money trapped in the country, those with the means are splashing out on cars, apartments and land. Ukrainians are spending like there’s no tomorrow.
尽管现实严峻，基辅的生活仍在继续。虽然难以获取统计数据，但坊间证据表明，一股消费热潮正在兴起。由于缺乏投资机会且资金被困在国内，那些有财力的人正在大肆购买汽车、公寓和土地。乌克兰人仿佛没有明天般地挥霍着。

Speculation over a new car tax last year spurred sales of high-end models: BMW and Mercedes SUVs are popular. A Rolls Royce SUV — retail price upwards of $400,000 — was parked outside a downtown hotel one morning last week. On the back window, stenciled letters spelled out in Cyrillic the name of the owner and his profession: “Plastic surgeon.”
去年关于新汽车税的猜测刺激了高端车型的销售：宝马和奔驰 SUV 颇受欢迎。上周某天早晨，一辆零售价超过 40 万美元的劳斯莱斯 SUV 停在了市中心一家酒店外。后窗上，用西里尔字母模板印刷的车主姓名及其职业赫然在目：“整形外科医生。”

Well-dressed people parade along the broad Khreschatyk boulevard past bustling outlets. Food delivery workers buzz along on electric bikes, while city center supermarkets are not just full, but boast abundant displays of world produce that put most German or British equivalents to shame.
衣着光鲜的人们沿着宽阔的赫雷夏蒂克大道游行，经过熙熙攘攘的商店。外卖员骑着电动自行车穿梭其间，而市中心的超市不仅货品充足，还展示着琳琅满目的世界农产品，其丰富程度令大多数德国或英国的同类超市相形见绌。

One resident returning to Kyiv from a business trip to Warsaw summed up the stubborn will to thrive.
一位从华沙出差返回基辅的居民总结了顽强求生的意志。

Originally from Donbas in the territory claimed by Russia in eastern Ukraine, Ina lived in Bucha to the north of Kyiv, now synonymous with Russia’s war crimes, before moving to the capital. There, her office at a US multinational was hit by a Russian missile. “We rebuilt it,” she said stoically.
伊娜原籍顿巴斯，位于俄罗斯声称拥有的乌克兰东部领土，在搬到首都之前，她住在基辅北部的布查，如今该地已成为俄罗斯战争罪行的代名词。在基辅，她所在的美国跨国公司的办公室遭到俄罗斯导弹袭击。“我们重建了它，”她坚忍地说道。

There is levity, too. People joke about the side-effects of military jamming used to disable drones. One iPhone switched time zones overnight, making its owner an hour early for work. Kyiv, after all, was home to Mikhail Bulgakov, writer of the absurdist classic, The Master and Margarita.
这里也不乏轻松时刻。人们开玩笑说，军用干扰用来对付无人机的副作用。一部 iPhone 一夜之间切换了时区，让它的主人提前一小时上班。毕竟，基辅曾是荒诞主义经典《大师与玛格丽特》的作者米哈伊尔·布尔加科夫的故乡。

But there’s no escaping the signs that this is the capital of a country at war.
但无法忽视的是，这里处处可见战争国家的首都迹象。

Military recruitment advertisements for specific units are everywhere. They’re on billboards the length of buildings, on posters and projected onto enormous digital screens. There’s a pop-up stall at the main railway station. Indeed, getting people to join up has been tougher in the past six months as talk of the quick deal Trump is pushing for gained traction.
特定部队的征兵广告随处可见，它们出现在与建筑物等高的广告牌上、海报上，以及巨大的数字屏幕上。主火车站还设有临时征兵摊位。事实上，过去六个月来，随着特朗普推动快速达成协议的说法获得关注，征兵工作变得更加困难。

Generators outside buildings kick in if the power fails. Sandbags are stacked up against national monuments, reminiscent of London in World War II. Soldiers in uniform are back from the front for R&R, out for a Sunday stroll with families, friends, girlfriends.
建筑物外的发电机在断电时启动。沙袋堆砌在国家纪念碑周围，让人想起二战时期的伦敦。身着制服的士兵从前线归来休整，周日与家人、朋友、女友一同外出散步。

There is a curfew in place from midnight until 5 a.m., so bars and restaurants close at 10 p.m. to allow time for customers to make their way home. Any later and taxis become scarce, reluctant to cross the Dnieper River to the dormitory districts beyond for fear of being stranded on the other side.
宵禁从午夜持续至凌晨 5 点，因此酒吧和餐馆晚上 10 点关门，以便顾客有时间回家。再晚些时候，出租车就会变得稀少，司机们不愿跨越第聂伯河前往对岸的宿舍区，担心被困在另一边。

It all masks a society under immense stress. PTSD among soldiers aside, there are feelings of guilt among those who aren’t serving, and resentment at those who left the country.
这一切掩盖了一个处于巨大压力之下的社会。除了士兵们的创伤后应激障碍（PTSD），还有那些未服役者的内疚感，以及对离开国家者的怨恨情绪。

Doctors report children as young as 10 with grey hair. At one metro station, an elderly man handed out fliers offering mental-health counselling: “Depression can be cured!” The government runs social media campaigns to encourage people to be mindful of others in stores and restaurants since they may have lost someone or have a loved one at the front.
医生报告称，有年仅 10 岁的儿童出现白发。在一个地铁站，一位老人发放提供心理健康咨询的传单：“抑郁症可以治愈！”政府开展社交媒体活动，鼓励人们在商店和餐馆里体谅他人，因为他们可能失去了亲人或有亲人在前线。

One corner of Maidan Square, the center of protests that toppled Ukraine’s pro-Russian leadership in 2013-14, has become a makeshift shrine to the fallen.
2013-14 年间，作为抗议活动中心的独立广场一角，见证了乌克兰亲俄领导层的倒台，如今已变为纪念逝者的临时圣地。

Outside the golden-domed cathedral of St Michael the Archangel, Kyiv’s patron saint, a steady stream of people crosses the square to enter. Moving in family groups and dressed in black, they carry flowers past the wall of martyrs to attend the funeral of a father, brother or son.
在基辅守护神圣米迦勒大天使的金顶大教堂外，人们络绎不绝地穿过广场进入教堂。他们以家庭为单位，身着黑衣，手持鲜花，经过烈士墙，前来参加父亲、兄弟或儿子的葬礼。

The sound of a clock ticking loudly announces a minute of silence each day at 9 a.m. for Ukraine’s fallen fighters. People stand upright as if to attention, others sit pensively. A voice exclaims: “Slava Ukraini!” — Glory to Ukraine.
每天上午 9 点，时钟的滴答声大声宣告着为乌克兰阵亡战士默哀的一分钟。人们笔直站立，仿佛在立正，其他人则沉思静坐。一个声音高呼：“Slava Ukraini！”——荣耀归于乌克兰。

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