Discover twice the city in half the time 以一半的时间发现两倍的城市
The key to the perfect trip 完美旅行的关键
Lonely Planet eBooks make trip planning and on-the-road travelling easier than ever Lonely Planet 电子书让旅行规划和旅途中的行程安排比以往任何时候都更加轻松
1. Discover amazing experiences 1. 发现令人惊叹的体验
Gorgeous photos of top sights with links to author recommendations help you plan where to go. 顶级景点的精美照片与作者推荐链接，助您规划行程。
3. Plan your perfect trip 3. 规划您的完美旅程
Search for destinations, bookmark favourites and add notes to customise your guide. 搜索目的地，收藏最爱，并添加笔记以定制您的指南。
2. Content when you need it 2. 当你需要时的内容
Downloading eBooks on the road is simple, and you can carry as many guides as you need. 在路上下载电子书很简单，你可以携带所需的所有指南。
4. Essential online travel info 4. 必备的在线旅行信息
Links to the best business and travel websites bring all the info you need into one place. 链接到最佳商业和旅行网站，将所有你需要的信息集中到一个地方。
Features you’ll love while on the road… 旅途中你会爱上的特色功能…
Contents 目录
Plan Your Trip 计划您的行程
The Journey Begins Here 旅程从这里开始Our Picks 我们的推荐Three Perfect Days 三天完美行程Get Prepared 做好准备When To Go 最佳旅行时间Getting There 到达方式Getting Around 出行指南A Few Surprises 一些惊喜
Explore Beijing 探索北京
Forbidden City & Dongcheng Central 故宫与东城中心
Drum Tower & Dongcheng North 鼓楼与东城北
Temple of Heaven & Dongcheng South 天坛与东城南
Beihai Park & Xicheng North 北海公园与西城北
Dashilar & Xicheng South 大栅栏与西城南
Sanlitun & Chaoyang 三里屯和朝阳
Summer Palace & Haidian 颐和园与海淀区
Top Experiences 顶级体验
Tiananmen Square 天安门广场
Forbidden City
Drum & Bell Towers 鼓楼与钟楼
Lama Temple
Temple of Heaven 天坛
Beihai Park
Panjiayuan Market 潘家园市场
798 Art District 798 艺术区
Summer Palace 颐和园
Worth a Trip 值得一游
The Great Wall of China 中国长城Universal Beiijing Resort 环球北京度假区
Beijing Toolkit 北京工具包
Family Travel 家庭旅行
Accommodation 住宿
Food, Drink & Nightlife 美食、饮品与夜生活
LGBTIQ+ Travellers LGBTIQ+ 旅行者
Health & Safe Travel 健康与安全旅行
Responsible Travel 负责任旅行
Accessible Travel 无障碍旅行
Nuts & Bolts
Language 语言
This Book 这本书
For many, Beijing is China. The centre of power since the 13th century, the city has seen successive dynasties come and go, from the Mongols to the Manchus to Mao. Each regime left its own indelible mark - the Forbidden City, Summer Palace, Tiananmen Square - and these reminders of a rich and storied past are what draw most visitors. But walking the streets amid glitzy new skyscrapers, straight-backed soldiers and thousands of made-inChina electric cars, it’s impossible to miss another facet of the capital: the future. Self-confident and proud, timeless and yet constantly changing, Beijing never fails to surprise. 对许多人来说，北京就是中国。自 13 世纪以来，这座城市一直是权力中心，见证了从蒙古人到满族人再到毛泽东的朝代更迭。每个政权都留下了不可磨灭的印记——故宫、颐和园、天安门广场——这些丰富而传奇的历史遗迹吸引了大多数游客。但在新崛起的摩天大楼、挺拔的士兵和成千上万的中国制造电动车之间穿行时，不可能忽视首都的另一面：未来。自信而骄傲，永恒却又不断变化，北京总能带来惊喜。
Christopher Pitts
christopherpitts.net
A lifelong admirer of Chinese art and calligraphy, Chris has written about China for twenty years. He is also the author of a forthcoming novel. 作为中国艺术和书法的终身爱好者，Chris 已经写了二十多年关于中国的文章。他也是即将出版的小说的作者。
CONTRIBUTING WRITER 撰稿人
Robert Isenberg 罗伯特·伊森伯格
robertisenberg.net
Robert is a writer and filmmaker based in Rhode Island. His most recent book is Mile Markers: Essays on Cycling. 罗伯特是一位居住在罗德岛的作家和电影制片人。他的最新著作是《里程碑：关于骑行的散文》。
THE BEST 最佳
Imperial Experiences 皇家体验
Home turf for the last three imperial dynasties, Beijing is China’s richest repository of historical attractions. Most are aligned on the sacred central axis - the centre of both the capital and the Chinese universe. 作为最后三个皇朝的发源地，北京是中国最丰富的历史景点宝库。大多数景点都位于神圣的中轴线上——这里是首都和中华宇宙的中心。
Discover the secretive world of 24 emperors and their thousands of servants, from eunuchs to embroidery maids, in the Forbidden City. 探索紫禁城中 24 位皇帝及其数千仆从的神秘世界，从太监到绣娘。
Climb the gravity-defying Great Wall, the ultimate bucket-list adventure that’s draped dreamily across the northern mountains. Delight in the esoteric symbolism of the Temple of Heaven, where emperors made sacrifices to appease the gods. 攀登挑战重力的长城，这是终极的遗愿清单冒险，梦幻般地横亘在北方的山脉之上。陶醉于天坛深奥的象征意义，这里是皇帝祭祀以安抚神灵的地方。
Here a QR code, there a QR code…embrace the cashless economy as you snap up faux antiques, Buddhist prayer beads, traditional calligraphy, pearls, electronics and more. 这里一个二维码，那里一个二维码……在抢购仿古玩、佛教念珠、传统书法、珍珠、电子产品等时，拥抱无现金经济。
Browse for faux antiques, arts and crafts and Communist-era kitsch at Panjiayuan Market, the emperor of Beijing’s markets. (pictured) 在潘家园市场，北京市场的“皇帝”，浏览仿古艺术品、手工艺品和共产主义时代的媚俗物品。（如图）
In imperial times, the capital was home to hundreds of temples and shrines, bringing in pilgrims and emissaries from across Asia. Marvel at the vestiges of Tibetan stupas, Taoist statuary, Khitan pagodas and the many altars of Confucian statecraft. 在帝国时代，首都拥有数百座寺庙和神社，吸引了来自亚洲各地的朝圣者和使者。欣赏藏式佛塔、道教雕像、契丹宝塔以及众多儒家治国之道的祭坛遗迹。
Make an offering at Lama Temple, historically one of the most important Tibetan lamaseries beyond the Himalayas’ snowy peaks. 在喇嘛庙（Lama Temple）献上供品，这里是历史上喜马拉雅雪山之外最重要的藏传佛教寺庙之一。
Step beneath the magnificent historic archways outside the peaceful Confucius Temple & Imperial College. (pictured) 步入宁静的孔庙和国子监外宏伟的历史拱门。（如图）
Admire the unique, India-inspired Wuta Temple, which dates to 1473 and has a fabulous stonemasonry museum. 欣赏独特的、受印度启发的五塔寺，它建于 1473 年，拥有一个极好的石雕博物馆。
Crane your neck and gaze at Beijing’s oldest building, the 57.8m-tall, early-12th-century Tianning Temple. 抬起头，仰望北京最古老的建筑——高达 57.8 米、建于 12 世纪初的天宁寺。
THE BEST 最佳
Museum Experiences 博物馆体验
Beijing’s historical vestiges and contemporary musings are displayed in museums and galleries across the city. From Handynasty figurines to transcendent statuary and court edicts to abstract expression, you’ll find life in all its guises. 北京的历史遗迹和当代思考在遍布全城的博物馆和画廊中得以展示。从汉代陶俑到超凡的雕塑，从宫廷诏书到抽象表现主义，你将发现生活的各种面貌。
Visit the National Museum of China, a tour de force of art and artefacts from across Chinese history. 参观中国国家博物馆，这是一座展示中国历史艺术与文物的杰出之作。
Distinguish the Khitan from the Han and the Mongols from the Manchu at the Capital Museum. 在首都博物馆中区分契丹人与汉人，蒙古人与满人。
Pore over historical documents, imperial star charts, old maps and imperial edicts at the First Historical Archives of China. 在中国第一历史档案馆细读历史文献、皇家星图、古老地图和圣旨。
See the best of Beijing’s contemporary art at UCCA, one of the top galleries at the industrial 798 Art District. 在北京工业风的 798 艺术区顶级画廊之一 UCCA，欣赏北京当代艺术的精华。
Follow Chinese emigration from Southeast Asia to the US at the excellent Overseas Chinese History Museum. 在出色的海外华人历史博物馆中，追溯华人从东南亚到美国的移民历程。
Put your finger on the pulse of contemporary Chinese art at the National Art Museum. 在国家美术馆感受当代中国艺术的脉搏。
Best for Kids 最适合孩子
Climb from watchtower to watchtower or slide down a toboggan at the Great Wall, an adventure like no other. 在长城上从一座瞭望塔爬到另一座，或乘坐滑道滑下，体验无与伦比的冒险。
Hop on board your broomstick at Harry Potter and the Forbidden Journey, one of the many thrilling rides at Universal Beijing Resort. 在环球影城北京度假区的众多惊险游乐设施中，乘坐你的扫帚在《哈利·波特与禁忌之旅》中翱翔。
Get out on the lakes at Beihai Park, whether in a boat in the summer or on skates and ice trikes in the winter. 在北海公园的湖上尽情游玩，无论是夏天划船，还是冬天滑冰或骑冰上三轮车。
Explore the maze of rooms and passageways at the Forbidden City, where little emperors have all the space in the world to let off some steam. 探索紫禁城的迷宫般的房间和通道，这里的小皇帝们拥有全世界所有的空间来释放压力。
Best for Free 最佳免费景点
Stand beneath the watchful gaze of Mao at Tiananmen Square, Beijing’s most politically charged public space. 站在天安门广场上，在毛泽东的注视下，这里是北京最具政治气息的公共空间。
Discover millennia of history, from Shang dynasty bronzes to priceless porcelain, at the showpiece National Museum of China. 在中国国家博物馆，探索从商代青铜器到无价瓷器的千年历史。
Ferret out the beguiling temple complex prosaically known as the Workers’ Cultural Palace, Beijing’s best-kept secret. It’s right beside the Forbidden City and is as good as free at just ¥2¥ 2. 探寻那迷人的寺庙群，它平淡无奇地被称为工人文化宫，是北京最保守的秘密。它紧邻故宫，几乎免费，仅需 ¥2¥ 2 。
Get clued up on Beijing’s storied history at the architecturally gorgeous Capital Museum. 在建筑精美的首都博物馆深入了解北京悠久的历史。
Unravel the story of a historic hutong in central Beijing at the Shijia Hutong Museum, which provides access to a traditional courtyard home. 在北京的史家胡同博物馆揭开历史悠久的胡同故事，这里提供参观传统四合院的机会。
Admire the courage and impact of China’s worldwide diaspora at the Overseas Chinese History Museum. 在海外华人历史博物馆，欣赏中国全球侨民的勇气和影响力。
Three Perfect Days 三日完美行程
From the Great Wall to the Forbidden City to roast duck, Beijing has a number of bucket-list experiences. Here are some ways to fit them all into a single action-packed schedule. 从长城到故宫再到烤鸭，北京有许多必打卡的体验。以下是一些将这些体验融入一个紧凑行程的方法。
DAY ONE 第一天
Only Have One Day? 只有一天时间？
MORNING 早晨
Where else to begin but at the the very heart of the Chinese universe. Enter Tiananmen Square to grab a photo of the iconic Mao portrait (arrive at dawn for the flag-raising ceremony) before passing beneath his gaze to explore the byzantine world of the Forbidden City (pictured). 除了从中国宇宙的中心开始，还能从哪里开始呢？进入天安门广场，拍一张标志性的毛主席肖像照片（黎明时分到达观看升旗仪式），然后在他的注视下穿过，探索紫禁城（如图）的错综复杂的世界。
AFTERNOON 下午
After lunch at the Icehouse, continue your tour of the Forbidden City before exiting at the rear gate. Climb to the top of Jingshan 在 Icehouse 享用午餐后，继续游览故宫，然后从后门离开。登上景山
Park, which provides imperial views over all Beijing. 公园，可以俯瞰整个北京的皇家景观。
EVENING 晚上
Grab a cab to Sijì Mínfú and join the queues for some of the best roast duck in the capital. 打车去四季民福，排队品尝京城最美味的烤鸭。
DAY TWO 第二天
A Weekend Trip 周末之旅
MORNING 早晨
Rise and shine, hikers! You’re headed for a Great Wall (pictured) adventure at either Badaling (accessible by bullet train, one hour) or Mutianyu (take the tourist bus, 90 minutes). Scramble steep watchtowers and snap photos of the Wall snaking over the hills. If you’re after a wilder section of wall, consider an organised hiking tour. 徒步者们，起床出发吧！你们将前往长城（如图）探险，可以选择八达岭（乘高铁可达，一小时车程）或慕田峪（乘坐旅游巴士，90 分钟车程）。攀登陡峭的烽火台，拍摄长城蜿蜒于山丘之间的壮丽照片。如果你想探索更原始的长城段，可以考虑参加有组织的徒步旅行团。
AFTERNOON 下午
Back in the city, recharge over a hotpot feast or spicy Sichuan crayfish at the raucous late-night eateries along Ghost St or try out the legions of trendy restaurants in Sanlitun. 回到城里，在鬼街喧嚣的深夜餐馆里享用一顿火锅大餐或麻辣四川小龙虾，或者去三里屯尝试众多时尚餐厅。
EVENING 晚上
For DJs stay in Chaoyang; for live music head to the bars near the Drum Tower, like Modernista. 对于 DJ，住在朝阳区；想听现场音乐，可以去鼓楼附近的酒吧，比如 Modernista。
DAY THREE 第三天
A Short Break 短暂休息
MORNING 早晨
Observe Beijingers dancing and performing taichi as you roam the 在漫游时，观察北京人跳舞和表演太极拳
Temple of Heaven (pictured), before admiring its grand centrepiece, the Hall of Prayer for Good Harvests. Pop into the Pearl Market by the park’s east gate for souvenirs. 天坛（如图），在欣赏其宏伟的中心建筑祈年殿之前，可以顺道去公园东门的珍珠市场购买纪念品。
AFTERNOON 下午
Make like the empress dowager and leave the city for the serenity of the Summer Palace, out towards Beijing’s Western Hills. Climb Longevity Hill for the grand view, then boat across Kunming Lake. 像太后一样离开城市，前往宁静的颐和园，朝北京西山方向进发。攀登万寿山欣赏壮丽景色，然后乘船穿越昆明湖。
EVENING 晚上
Return to Beijing and head to the modern Qianliang Hutong for hip noodle joint Pang Mei Noodles, followed by craft beer at Jing-A Longfusi. 返回北京，前往现代的钱粮胡同，在时尚的面馆胖妹面庄用餐，随后在京 A Longfusi 品尝精酿啤酒。
If You Have More Time 如果你有更多时间
Make a beeline for the incomparable Lama Temple and its 18m-tall sandalwood Buddha. From here it’s a short stroll to the comparatively quiet grounds of the Confucius Temple. Follow the temple tour with a bike ride through the hutong to the Drum Tower, at the northern end of the central axis. 直奔无与伦比的雍和宫及其 18 米高的檀香木佛像。从这里步行片刻即可到达相对安静的孔庙。参观完寺庙后，骑自行车穿过胡同前往位于中轴线北端的鼓楼。
Stroll around Houhai Lake, with a stop at Song Qingling’s Former Residence, or climb to the top of Jade Islet in Beihai Park, crowned with a white Tibetan stupa. Alternatively, the Tibetan stupa at Miaoying Temple is even grander, tucked away amid the hutong in Xicheng. 漫步后海，顺道参观宋庆龄故居，或登上北海公园的琼华岛，山顶矗立着一座白色藏式佛塔。此外，西城区胡同深处的妙应寺白塔更为宏伟。
If you’re all templed out, head to the Panjiayuan Market where you can haggle your heart out for that one-of-a-kind souvenir: genuine copies of the Little Red Book, traditional ink and brush artwork, hand-carved chops and plenty of faux antiques. Finish the day with a Peking opera performance at the historic Zhengyici Theatre. 如果你已经对寺庙感到厌倦，不妨前往潘家园市场，在那里你可以尽情讨价还价，寻找独一无二的纪念品：正版《毛主席语录》、传统水墨画、手工雕刻的印章以及大量仿古艺术品。最后，在历史悠久的正乙祠戏院欣赏一场京剧表演，结束一天的行程。
Judging by the size of the queues, the capital’s most popular sight is neither the Great Wall nor the Forbidden City: it’s Universal Beijing 从排队的规模来看，首都最受欢迎的景点既不是长城也不是故宫：而是 Universal Beijing
Resort. A hop, skip and a metro ride east of the city centre, the theme park has brought a liberal sprinkle of Hollywood glitter to the Middle Kingdom. If you plan on making the trip here to see the crooked chimneys and quaint rooftops of Hogsmeade, definitely count on staying for the entire day. Jurassic World Adventure (pictured) and Kung Fu Panda are just some of the other themed lands, and the scream-worthy 3D rides and Instagrammable Potterland photo ops can be found around every corner. 度假村。从市中心向东跳跳蹦蹦再搭乘地铁，这个主题公园为中华大地带来了一抹好莱坞的璀璨。如果你计划来此一睹霍格莫德歪斜的烟囱和古雅的屋顶，一定要预留一整天的时间。侏罗纪世界冒险（如图）和功夫熊猫只是众多主题区中的一部分，而令人尖叫的 3D 游乐设施和适合在 Instagram 上分享的波特兰照片机会随处可见。
Don’t be fooled by the Soviet-style exterior of the monolithic 不要被这座巨大建筑的苏联风格外观所迷惑
National Museum of China, this is Beijing’s best all-in-one museum, ranging from historical artefacts to Buddhist statuary to socialist-realism propaganda. 中国国家博物馆，这是北京最佳的综合博物馆，展品从历史文物到佛教雕像，再到社会主义现实主义宣传作品。
At the other end of the spectrum is the tiny Poly Art Museum - just two rooms, but fabulously curated. For contemporary expression, take a trip out to the 798 Art District (pictured), a collection of edgy galleries in an industrial setting. 在另一端是小小的保利艺术博物馆——只有两个房间，但策展极为出色。对于当代艺术表达，可以前往 798 艺术区（如图），这是一个在工业环境中集合的前卫画廊群。
The Overseas Chinese History Museum is worth a trip, as is the First Historical Archives of China, opened in 2022. Meanwhile, woodworkers and architecture aficionados should check out the oftoverlooked Ancient Architecture Museum. 海外华侨历史博物馆值得一游，2022 年开放的中国第一历史档案馆也是如此。同时，木工和建筑爱好者应该去看看常被忽视的古建筑博物馆。
Three months before Sort out your visa．Start memorising a few Mandarin phrases． Read books and listen to podcasts on Chinese history． 三个月前 办理好签证。开始记住一些普通话短语。阅读关于中国历史的书籍和收听播客
One month before Decide on a neigh－bourhood to base yourself in．Book accommodation，tours and courses． 出发前一个月决定要住在哪个街区。预订住宿、旅游团和课程
One week before Buy a VPN subscription to bypass the Great Firewall．Download and set up useful apps（eg WeChat，Alipay，VPN provider）． 一周前 购买 VPN 订阅以绕过防火墙。下载并设置实用应用程序（如 WeChat，Alipay，VPN 提供商）
Manners Matter 礼仪至关重要
Generally speaking，China is very relaxed when it comes to etiquette． The most important thing to remember is to not make people lose face in public（eg by arguing or losing your cool）． 一般来说，中国在礼仪方面非常宽松。最重要的是要记住，不要在公共场合让人丢脸（例如通过争吵或失去冷静）
Greetings and goodbyes Shake hands．Say nǐ hǎo to greet someone，and zàijiàn to say goodbye． 问候与道别时握手。用“你好”问候他人，用“再见”道别
WeChat If a stranger asks to add you as a friend in a public setting， it＇s good form to accept． 微信 如果在公共场合有陌生人请求添加你为好友，接受是礼貌的做法
WeChat 微信
WeChat（微信；Wēixin）is the single most useful app in China．It＇s social networking，texting，cashless payment and the internet all rolled into one．In order to reserve or purchase admission tickets， visitors need to use WeChat．You＇ll need to add：（1）a credit or debit card（add them at home；include a backup）and（2）a phone number and data plan that＇s active in China（buy at the airport）． 微信（WeChat；Wēixin）是中国最有用的应用程序。它集社交网络、短信、无现金支付和互联网于一体。为了预订或购买门票，游客需要使用微信。你需要添加：（1）一张信用卡或借记卡（在家添加；包括一张备用卡）和（2）在中国有效的电话号码和数据套餐（在机场购买）
Things to Know 需要了解的事项
Alipay（支付宝；Zhīfùbǎo）Few people in China use cash（though it is Alipay（支付宝；Zhīfùbǎo）在中国很少有人使用现金（尽管它仍然存在）
accepted). The Alipay app makes riding the metro, hailing a taxi and transferring money a breeze. Add your cards at home. 支付宝应用程序让乘坐地铁、打车和转账变得轻而易举。在家添加您的卡片。
Local Phone Number In order to do most things in China, you need two things: (1) a local phone number and (2) your passport. While you can get around without a phone number, life will be much simpler if you buy a local SIM card at the airport. You must carry your passport with you at all times. 在中国，为了完成大多数事情，你需要两样东西：（1）一个本地电话号码和（2）你的护照。虽然你可以不用电话号码也能应付，但如果在机场购买一张本地 SIM 卡，生活会简单得多。你必须随身携带护照。
Limits Alipay and WeChat have transaction limits ( ¥3000¥ 3000 ) and charge a 3%3 \% fee for transfers/purchases over ¥200¥ 200. 支付宝和微信有交易限额（ ¥3000¥ 3000 ），并对超过 ¥200¥ 200 的转账/购买收取 3%3 \% 的费用。
Intranet The World Wide Web has little presence in China. Only rarely will you find practical information or ticket-booking services online. In its place is WeChat, which only accesses China-based (and Chinese-language) data. 在中国，万维网的存在感很弱。你很少能在网上找到实用的信息或订票服务。取而代之的是微信，它只能访问基于中国（和中文）的数据。
VPN & Maps VPN & 地图
In order to bypass the Great Firewall and connect with the outside world (via Google, Gmail, Instagram, WhatsApp etc), you will need a VPN. 为了绕过防火墙与外界联系（通过 Google、Gmail、Instagram、WhatsApp 等），你需要一个 VPN。
Research the latest on Reddit (r/chinalife) - what works changes constantly - and activate the plan before entering China. Have a backup and do not expect a seamless 100%100 \% success rate. 在 Reddit（r/chinalife）上研究最新信息——情况经常变化——并在进入中国前激活计划。准备一个备用方案，不要期望有 100%的成功率。
In terms of getting around, Apple Maps is the most reliable (no VPN needed), though it’s not up to date. If you can read Chinese, Baidu Maps is current, though it’s not particularly user-friendly. 在出行方面，Apple Maps 是最可靠的（无需 VPN），但它不是最新的。如果你能阅读中文，Baidu Maps 是最新的，尽管它并不是特别用户友好。
Use a translation app like DeepL or Baidu Translate to act as your personal interpreter. These apps work by taking a picture (eg of a museum caption or a menu) or by speaking into your phone. 使用像 DeepL 或百度翻译这样的翻译应用作为你的个人翻译。这些应用通过拍照（例如博物馆的说明或菜单）或对着手机说话来工作。
When To Go 何时前往
Beijing is most pleasant in spring（April and May）and autumn （September and October），though avoid the week after National Day （1 October）． 北京在春季（4 月和 5 月）和秋季（9 月和 10 月）最为宜人，但要避开国庆节（10 月 1 日）之后的那一周
Beijing＇s seasons each have their own peculiarities．Spring can be lovely，but watch out for dust storms that blow in from the Gobi Desert in March and early April．Summers are hot and humid，but the heat is tempered by frequent rainstorms．Autumn brings clear skies and pleasant temperatures，and is ideal for exploring the Great Wall．Winter is cold and dark，with bitter winds that sweep down from the steppe．On the plus side，sub－zero temperatures in January and February bring opportunities to ice skate at public lakes around town． 北京的每个季节都有其独特之处。春天可能很宜人，但要注意三月和四月初从戈壁沙漠吹来的沙尘暴。夏天炎热潮湿，但频繁的雷阵雨缓解了酷热。秋天带来晴朗的天空和宜人的温度，是探索长城的理想时节。冬天寒冷而阴暗，寒风从草原上呼啸而来。不过，一月和二月的零下气温也为在城市的公共湖泊上滑冰提供了机会
Traditional Festivals 传统节日
January or February Kicking off on Chinese New Year＇s Eve and lasting for 15 days，the family－oriented Spring Festival（春节；Chūn Jié）is China’s most important holiday．Beijing will be quieter than usual at first as most people are at home celebrating；however，all the big sights should be open． Look out for temple fairs（庙会；miàohui）during this time． 一月或二月，从除夕开始持续 15 天的以家庭为中心的春节（春节；Chūn Jié）是中国最重要的节日。起初，北京会比平时安静，因为大多数人都在家里庆祝；然而，所有主要景点应该都会开放。在此期间，留意庙会（庙会；miàohui）
4 or 5 Aprill Tomb Sweeping Day（清明节；Qīngmíng Jié）is a day set aside for ancestor worship．You may see residents burning ghost money for their dearly departed，although recently the government has clamped down on this practice． 4 月 4 日或 5 日清明节（Qīngmíng Jié）是祭祖的日子。你可能会看到居民为逝去的亲人烧纸钱，尽管最近政府已经对这一行为进行了限制
May or June The fifth day of the fifth lunar month marks the Dragon Boat Festival（端午节；Duānwǔ Jié），when Chinese eat zòngzi（sticky rice wrapped in bamboo leaves）and dragon－boat races are occasionally staged on Beijing＇s lakes． 五月或六月 农历五月初五是端午节（Duānwǔ Jié），中国人会吃粽子（用竹叶包裹的糯米），北京的湖泊上偶尔会举行龙舟比赛
Beijing Weather 北京天气
September or October Also known as the Moon Festival，the Mid－Autumn Festival（中秋节；Zhōngqiū Jié）is marked by eating yuèbǐng（mooncakes） and celebrating family reunions． 九月或十月，也称为中秋节（Zhōngqiū Jié），人们通过吃月饼（yuèbǐng）和庆祝家庭团聚来纪念这个节日
Other Events 其他活动
January or February Celebrated on the 15th day of Spring Festival， Lantern Festival（元宵节；Yuánxiāo Jié）is known for its delicious yuánxiāo（glutinous rice dumplings）． 一月或二月在春节的第 15 天庆祝，元宵节（元宵节；Yuánxiāo Jié）以其美味的元宵（糯米团子）而闻名
1 May May Day（五一；Wǔyī），or International Workers Day，kicks off a five－day national holiday，when tourist sites are jam－packed．Hotel availability plummets；avoid if possible． 5 月 1 日，五一国际劳动节（五一；Wǔyī）标志着为期五天的全国假期的开始，此时旅游景点人满为患。酒店入住率骤降；如有可能，尽量避免出行
August A citywide celebration of classical music，the Beijing Music Festival（北京国际音乐节；Beijing Guójì Yīnyuè Jié；bmf．org．cn）brings together performers at venues around town． 八月，全市范围内庆祝古典音乐的北京国际音乐节（Beijing Guójì Yīnyuè Jié；bmf.org.cn）将来自各地的表演者聚集在城市的各个场馆
1 October National Day（国庆节；Guóqìng Jié）marks the anniversary of the founding of the PRC．There are huge military parades on key years，and it kicks off Golden Week，a seven－day national holiday that sees tourist sights full to bursting．Avoid travelling during this week if possible． 10 月 1 日国庆节（Guóqìng Jié）标志着中华人民共和国的成立纪念日。在重要年份会有盛大的阅兵式，并开启为期七天的黄金周假期，期间旅游景点人满为患。如果可能，尽量避免在这一周出行
ACCOMMODATION LOWDOWN 住宿指南
Accommodation is hardest to find during the big Chinese holidays，in particular the weeks of 1 May and 1 October，when the entire nation has time off and millions of people are travelling．In contrast，cheap periods include Christmas，January and the post－ Chinese New Year lull． 在中国的大型节假日期间，尤其是五一和十一假期，住宿最难找到，因为全国放假，数百万人出行。相比之下，圣诞节、一月以及春节后的淡季则是价格便宜的时候
Getting There 到达方式
Beijing can be reached by plane, train, bus or a combination of ship and train, but most overseas travellers fly into the city, arriving at Beijing Capital International Airport (PEK) or Beijing Daxing International Airport (PKX). 北京可以通过飞机、火车、公交车或船与火车的组合到达，但大多数海外旅行者会选择飞抵这座城市，降落在北京首都国际机场（PEK）或北京大兴国际机场（PKX）。
From the Airport 从机场
Beijing Capital International Airport 北京首都国际机场
Airport Express The Airport Express train ( ¥25,30¥ 25,30 minutes, 6.21 am to 11.10 pm ) links terminals 2 and 3 with central Beijing at Dongzhimen subway station, with transfers to lines 2,10 and 13 . 机场快轨 The Airport Express train（ ¥25,30¥ 25,30 分钟，早上 6:21 至晚上 11:10）连接 2 号和 3 号航站楼与北京市中心的东直门地铁站，可换乘 2 号线、10 号线和 13 号线。
Taxis Taxis are relatively cheap (around ¥90¥ 90 to ¥140¥ 140 ) and take 30 minutes to one hour, depending on your destination and traffic. Use the official taxi rank only. 出租车相对便宜（约 ¥90¥ 90 到 ¥140¥ 140 ），根据目的地和交通情况，车程为 30 分钟到一小时。请仅使用官方出租车候车点。
Bus There are a dozen airport shuttles to destinations in and around Beijing ( ¥20¥ 20 to ¥30¥ 30, around 70 minutes), including the main railway stations. However, the Airport Express is faster and more convenient. 巴士有十几条机场班车线路通往北京及周边目的地（ ¥20¥ 20 至 ¥30¥ 30 ，约 70 分钟），包括主要火车站。不过，机场快线更快更便捷。
Beijing Daxing International Airport 北京大兴国际机场
This massive airport serves Beijing, Tianjin and Hebei province. 这座大型机场为北京、天津和河北省提供服务。
Train & Metro The high-speed Beijing-Xiong’an Intercity Railway runs to the Beijing West Railway Station ( ¥30,30¥ 30,30 minutes, 6.40 am to 8.56 pm ), where you can transfer to metro lines 7 and 9 . 高铁与地铁 京雄城际铁路高速列车通往北京西站（ ¥30,30¥ 30,30 分钟，早上 6:40 至晚上 8:56），在那里您可以换乘地铁 7 号线和 9 号线。
The more frequent Daxing metro currently only runs to Caoqiao station south of the city ( ¥35,35¥ 35,35 minutes, 6.30 am to 10.30 pm ), where you can transfer to lines 10 and 19. This is still a long way from central Beijing. Taxi Taxis into town cost about ¥220¥ 220 and take 60 to 90 minutes to central Beijing. Use the official taxi rank only. 目前较频繁的大兴地铁仅运行至城市南部的草桥站（ ¥35,35¥ 35,35 分钟，上午 6:30 至晚上 10:30），在那里您可以换乘 10 号线和 19 号线。这里距离北京市中心仍然很远。打车进城的费用约为 ¥220¥ 220 ，到达北京市中心需要 60 到 90 分钟。请仅使用官方出租车候车点。
Other Points of Entry 其他入境点
Train 火车
China’s HSR (High-Speed Rail) train network is the longest and busiest in the world. Most journeys between other major cities and Beijing use Gcategory bullet trains that race along at over 300km//h300 \mathrm{~km} / \mathrm{h}. 中国的高铁（HSR）网络是世界上最长的和最繁忙的。其他主要城市与北京之间的大多数旅程都使用 G 字头的高速列车，时速超过 300km//h300 \mathrm{~km} / \mathrm{h} 。
Beijing has four major train stations for long-distance travel: Beijing, Beijing West, Beijing South and Beijing North. There are international routes to and from Mongolia, North Korea, Russia and Vietnam, and trains to and from Hong Kong and Lhasa in Tibet. 北京有四个主要的长途火车站：北京站、北京西站、北京南站和北京北站。有通往蒙古、朝鲜、俄罗斯和越南的国际线路，以及往返香港和西藏拉萨的列车。
Getting Around 出行指南
Beijing＇s extensive metro system，cheap taxi fares and ubiquitous shared bikes make getting around the city a breeze．However，you should still prepare for lots of walking as some of the big sights，such as the Forbidden City and Tiananmen Square，can only be accessed in an indirect fashion on foot． 北京庞大的地铁系统、低廉的出租车费用和随处可见的共享单车让城市出行变得轻而易举。然而，你仍应做好大量步行的准备，因为一些主要景点，如故宫和天安门广场，只能通过步行间接到达
Subway 地铁
The world＇s busiest and longest subway system，Beijing＇s metro has 27 lines （over 800 km ）burrowing through the municipality． 世界上最为繁忙且最长的地铁系统，北京地铁拥有 27 条线路（超过 800 公里），贯穿整个直辖市
Exceedingly foreigner－friendly，all signs，announcements，maps and ticket machines are in English．It＇s cheap by world standards，too，with distance－ based fares costing between ¥3¥ 3 and ¥10¥ 10 ． 非常外国人友好，所有的标志、公告、地图和售票机都有英文。按照世界标准也很便宜，基于距离的票价在 ¥3¥ 3 到 ¥10¥ 10 之间
To spot a subway station，look for the navy－blue sign with a white capital ＇D＇（for ditiě zhàn；地铁站；subway station）enclosed in a circle．You＇ll need to pass through security each time you ride the metro． 要找到地铁站，请寻找带有白色大写字母“D”（代表 ditiě zhàn；地铁站；subway station）的深蓝色标志，字母被圆圈包围。每次乘坐地铁时都需要通过安检
To plan a journey and get an idea of travel times，download the Explore Beijing metro app． 为了规划旅程并了解旅行时间，请下载 Explore Beijing 地铁应用程序
Taxi \＆Rideshares 出租车 \＆拼车
Taxis（出租车；chūzūchē）are everywhere，but good luck hailing one during rush hour，in rainstorms and between 8 pm and 10 pm －prime time for the post－dinner homeward rush．It＇s easiest to hail a taxi online using DiDi or another app，but you must have a local phone number and payment app． 出租车（chūzūchē）随处可见，但在高峰时段、暴雨期间以及晚上 8 点到 10 点——晚餐后回家的高峰期——想打到车就得靠运气了。使用滴滴或其他应用程序在线叫车最为方便，但你必须拥有本地电话号码和支付应用
You can always flag one down the old－fashioned way if needed． 如果需要，你总是可以用老办法招手拦下一辆出租车
Flagfall is ¥13¥ 13 ，and lasts for 3 km ．After that it’s ¥2.3¥ 2.3 per kilometre．Rates increase after 11 pm ． 起步价是 ¥13¥ 13 ，包含 3 公里。之后每公里 ¥2.3¥ 2.3 。晚上 11 点后价格会上涨
It＇s very rare for drivers to speak any English，so always have the name 司机很少会说英语，所以一定要准备好目的地的中文名称
and address of your destination written down in Chinese characters (not pinyin), and keep your hotel’s business card on you to get back home again. 将目的地的名称和地址用中文汉字写下来（不要用拼音），并随身携带酒店的名片以便回家。
Alipay does it all: use it to ride the subway, hail a cab, rent a bike and more. Scan the QR code above right for Apple. Scan the QR code below right for Android. 支付宝无所不能：用它乘坐地铁、打车、租自行车等等。扫描右上方的二维码适用于 Apple。扫描右下方的二维码适用于 Android。
Bicycle 自行车
Cycling is the most enjoyable way to get around Beijing，especially in summer．The city is as flat as a dumpling wrapper and almost every road has a wide bike lane． 骑自行车是游览北京最愉快的方式，尤其是在夏天。这座城市平坦得像饺子皮，几乎每条路都有宽阔的自行车道
Beijing also has thousands of shared bikes，which are incredibly convenient．．．if you have a local phone number，a linked payment card and are able to navigate the registration process． 北京还有成千上万的共享单车，它们非常方便……如果你有本地电话号码、绑定的支付卡，并且能够完成注册流程
At the time of writing，the light－blue Hello Bike（哈啰单车；Hāluō Dānchē）was the most convenient option for foreigners，as it included a translation feature within the Alipay mini－app and supported foreign passports as a form of ID． 在撰写本文时，浅蓝色的 Hello Bike（哈啰单车；Hāluō Dānchē）是外国人最方便的选择，因为它在支付宝小程序中包含了翻译功能，并支持外国护照作为身份证明
Public Bus 公共汽车
Beijing’s buses（公共汽车；gōnggòng qichē）are plentiful and cheap（from ¥2¥ 2 per journey），but because stops are indicated in Chinese only and routes are often circuitous，they can be tricky for tourists to use． 北京的公共汽车（gōnggòng qichē）数量多且价格便宜（每次乘车从 ¥2¥ 2 起），但由于站点仅用中文标示且路线通常迂回曲折，游客使用起来可能会有些困难
Public Transport Essentials 公共交通要点
Digital Payments 数字支付
Paying for transport in Beijing is cash－free and incredibly convenient，but you have to be able to register within the Chinese system and set up a recognised form of payment．If you＇re in town for only two or three days， you may find the process to be more trouble than it＇s worth． 在北京支付交通费用是无现金且极其便利的，但你必须能够在中国系统中注册并设置一种被认可的支付方式。如果你只在城里待两三天，可能会觉得这个过程得不偿失
Subway 地铁
Riding the metro is simple：open Alipay，select＇Transport＇and then＇Metro＇． Scan the QR code once to enter the station and again when you exit．The fare will be deducted automatically from your card． 乘坐地铁非常简单：打开支付宝，选择“交通”然后“地铁”。进站时扫描一次二维码，出站时再扫描一次。车费会自动从你的卡中扣除
Taxi \＆DiDi 出租车 \＆DiDi
Download the DiDi app in your home country．When you want to hail a cab， open DiDi（or the mini－app within WeChat or Alipay）and enter your destination．A selection of different vehicles will appear，along with the fare． 在您的国家下载 DiDi 应用。当您想打车时，打开 DiDi（或微信、支付宝内的小程序）并输入目的地。将出现不同车辆的选择，以及车费
When your ride arrives，the driver may ask you（in Chinese）to confirm the last four digits of your phone number．Have the numbers handy and show them to the driver．Press＇pay＇（支付；zhīfù）at the end of your ride． 当您的车到达时，司机可能会用中文要求您确认手机号码的最后四位数字。请准备好这些数字并展示给司机看。行程结束时，请按“支付”（zhīfù）
You will need a local phone number to use DiDi． 使用 DiDi 需要一个本地电话号码
Using Cash 使用现金
Not everyone will be able or want to use their phone for payments．Cash is still accepted，just make sure you carry a variety of bills as few people will have exact change．ATMs are generally easy to find，though not all take foreign cards．Credit cards are usually only accepted at hotels and high－end businesses． 并非每个人都能或愿意使用手机进行支付。现金仍然被接受，只需确保携带各种面额的钞票，因为很少有人会有零钱。ATM 机通常很容易找到，但并非所有都接受外国卡。信用卡通常只在酒店和高端商户被接受
Subways 地铁
To ride the subway，you can either buy a single ticket at the automated machines or pick up a travel card（交通一卡通；jiāotōng yīkătōng；¥20 deposit）at a subway－station info desk and load money onto it．A transport card means you won＇t need to buy a ticket each time you ride． 乘坐地铁时，您可以在自动售票机上购买单程票，或在地铁站服务台领取交通一卡通（¥20 押金）并充值。使用交通卡意味着您每次乘车时无需再购票
TRAVEL COSTS 旅行费用
Metro 地铁
from ¥3¥ 3 来自 ¥3¥ 3
Bike Share 共享单车
per half－hour ¥1.5¥ 1.5 每半小时 ¥1.5¥ 1.5
Taxi 出租车
from ¥13¥ 13 来自 ¥13¥ 13
ID CHECKS 身份证检查
The police sometimes conduct random ID checks in the subway. Keep your passport handy. 警察有时会在地铁中进行随机身份证检查。请随身携带护照。
TIPS FOR GETTING TRANSPORT APPS TO WORK 使用交通应用程序的实用技巧
Have a good photo of your passport preloaded on your phone. You will need to upload it to use various services. 在手机上预先保存好护照的清晰照片。你需要上传它来使用各种服务。
Upon arrival in China, buy a local SIM card at the airport - note that at the time of research, there was only one desk, and it was inconveniently located immediately upon exiting customs. Do not buy an eSIM in your home country, as these do not include a local phone number that’s tied to your passport, which is essential. 抵达中国后，在机场购买本地 SIM 卡——需要注意的是，在研究时只有一个柜台，且位置不便，就在出海关后立即可见。不要在你的祖国购买 eSIM，因为这类 SIM 卡不包含与护照绑定的本地电话号码，而这是必需的。
Note that Wise (wise.com) offers an electronic debit card. It does not charge transaction fees, and exchange rates are excellent, though your bank will likely charge you an initial wire fee to load money onto the card. 请注意，Wise（wise.com）提供电子借记卡。它不收取交易费用，汇率也非常优惠，不过你的银行可能会向你收取初始汇款费用以将资金存入卡中。
A Few Surprises 一些惊喜
Amid all the 21st-century shopping malls and futuristic skyscrapers are remnants of an ancient city whose roots reach far into the past. 在 21 世纪的购物中心和未来主义摩天大楼之间，仍保留着这座古城的遗迹，其根源可追溯到遥远的过去。
Hutong 胡同
The essence of Beijing is its hutong (胡同), the distinctive, grey-brick alleyways that criss-cross parts of the capital. These timeless residential lanes, where everyday life unfolds at a slower pace than elsewhere, offer a glimpse of traditional community life. Not so long ago, most of the inner city was a giant chessboard of hutong and courtyard homes, but today they only endure in scattered patches across the old centre. Take a hutong tour with Beijing Postcards or visit Shijia Hutong Museum. 北京的精髓在于其胡同，这些独特的灰砖小巷在首都的部分地区纵横交错。这些永恒的住宅巷道，日常生活节奏比其他地方缓慢，展现了传统社区生活的一瞥。不久之前，内城大部分地区还是一片由胡同和四合院组成的巨大棋盘，但如今它们只在旧城中心的零星区域得以保留。与 Beijing Postcards 一起进行胡同之旅，或参观史家胡同博物馆。
Sacrificial Sites 祭祀遗址
Beijing’s collection of imperial altars and temples distinguishes it from other Chinese cities. The emperor and imperial court held sacrifices to protect the empire from divine catastrophe. The sacrificial sites included nine altars, such as the Temple of Heaven or the Temple of Agriculture, now the Ancient Architecture Museum, and multiple ancestor temples, such as the Workers’ Cultural Palace, Temple of Ancient Monarchs and Shouhuang Palace. 北京的皇家祭坛和寺庙群使其区别于其他中国城市。皇帝和朝廷举行祭祀以保护帝国免受神灾。祭祀场所包括九座祭坛，如天坛或农坛（现为古建筑博物馆），以及多座祖先庙宇，如劳动人民文化宫、历代帝王庙和寿皇殿。
Modern Architecture 现代建筑
In 1997, the CCP announced a plan to triple the living space of Chinese city residents, usually by moving millions of people from their traditional homes (which often lacked amenities like plumbing) into planned satellite towns beyond the centre. Skyscrapers and shopping centres sprung up in their place in the two decades that followed - which earned China a reputation as an architect’s playground - until President Xi issued a moratorium on ‘weird’ buildings in 2016. Gaze at some of Beijing’s landmark designs from the 80th- 1997 年，中国共产党宣布了一项计划，旨在将中国城市居民的居住面积增加三倍，通常通过将数百万人从传统住宅（通常缺乏如管道等设施）迁移到市中心以外的规划卫星城镇来实现。在随后的二十年里，摩天大楼和购物中心如雨后春笋般涌现，使中国赢得了建筑师乐园的声誉，直到 2016 年习近平主席发布了对“怪异”建筑的禁令。欣赏一些北京自 80 年代以来的标志性设计——
floor bar Atmosphere. 楼层酒吧 Atmosphere。
OFFBEAT BEIJING 另类北京
Hidden between the For-bidden City and Tiananmen Square are two cypress-dotted parks: Workers’ Cultural Palace and Zhongshan Park. 隐藏在故宫和天安门广场之间的是两片柏树点缀的公园：劳动人民文化宫和中山公园。
Azimuths, sextants and the traditional calendar star at the capital’s Ancient Observatory. 方位角、六分仪和首都古观象台上的传统历法星象。
Little-known Guardian Art Center holds exhibits of Chinese artisanship and international art. 鲜为人知的 Guardian Art 中心展示中国工艺和国际艺术。
See the only sur-viving remnants of the city walls at the Southeast Corner Watchtower. 在东南角楼观看仅存的城墙遗迹。
Here, at the middle of the Middle Kingdom, is the Beijing you came to see: Chairman Mao slumbering in his mausoleum on Tiananmen Square and the ghosts of emperors past haunting the 9999 rooms of the world’s largest palace complex, the Forbidden City. Remarkably, central Beijing retains its historic layout, a fantastical arrangement of divine order. You’ll understand as soon as you clamber up the slopes of Jingshan Park and drink in the astonishing scale and symmetry of the city’s central axis from above. Get off the beaten path with a trip to the lesser-known temples and museums in the surrounding hutong. 在这里，中华大地的中心，你将看到你前来北京所期待的景象：毛主席长眠于天安门广场的纪念堂，昔日皇帝的幽灵在世界最大的宫殿建筑群——紫禁城的 9999 间房间里游荡。令人惊叹的是，北京中心仍保留着其历史布局，一种神圣秩序的奇妙安排。一旦你爬上景山公园的山坡，从高处俯瞰这座城市的中轴线，你就会被其惊人的规模和对称性所震撼。远离常规路线，前往周边胡同中鲜为人知的寺庙和博物馆，体验不一样的北京。
See for eating and drinking listings 参见餐饮列表
Getting Around 出行指南
(S) Subway Line 1 (S) 地铁 1 号线
Runs east-west; stops at Tiananmen East (Tiananmen Square and the Forbidden City), Wangfujing (food courts) and Jiangguomen (Ancient Observatory). 东西走向；停靠天安门东站（天安门广场和故宫）、王府井站（美食广场）和建国门站（古观象台）。
(S) Subway Line 2 (S) 地铁 2 号线
Runs in a circle; stops at Qianmen (Tiananmen Square), Jiangguomen (Ancient Observatory) and Dongsi Shitiao (Poly Art Museum). 绕圈运行；停靠前门（天安门广场）、建国门（古观象台）和东四十条（保利艺术博物馆）。
(S) Subway Line 5 (S) 地铁 5 号线
Runs north-south; stops at Dengshikou (Shijia Hutong Museum) and Zhangzizhong Lu (restaurants). 南北走向；停靠灯市口（史家胡同博物馆）和张自忠路（餐馆）。
(S) Subway Line 8 (S) 地铁 8 号线
Runs north-south; stops at Jinyu Hutong (Forbidden City) and the National Art Museum. 南北走向；在金鱼胡同（故宫）和国家美术馆停靠。
THE BEST 最佳
HISTORIC SIGHT Forbidden City 历史景点 故宫
COMMUNIST LANDMARK Tiananmen Square 共产主义地标 天安门广场
PEKING DUCK Sijì Mínfú PEKING DUCK 四季民福
PANORAMIC VIEWS Jingshan Park 全景视野 景山公园
ARTWORK National Museum of China
○ Top Experiences ○ 顶级体验
Tiananmen Square 天安门广场
C 6
Forbidden City 故宫
C 3
Tiananmen Square C 6
Forbidden City C 3| Tiananmen Square | C 6 |
| :--- | :--- |
| Forbidden City | C 3 |
Experiences 体验
1 Workers' Cultural Palace 1 工人文化宫
C 4
2
Zhongshan Park 中山公园
B 5
3
Jingshan Park 景山公园
C 2
4
Shouhuang Palace 寿皇宫
C 2
1 Workers' Cultural Palace C 4
2 Zhongshan Park B 5
3 Jingshan Park C 2
4 Shouhuang Palace C 2| 1 Workers' Cultural Palace | C 4 | |
| :--- | :--- | :--- |
| 2 | Zhongshan Park | B 5 |
| 3 | Jingshan Park | C 2 |
| 4 | Shouhuang Palace | C 2 |
5 Quanjude Roast Duck Hepingmen 5 全聚德烤鸭和平门
A6
6 Bianyifang Roast Duck 6 便宜坊烤鸭
C6
7 National Centre for the Performing Arts 7 国家大剧院
B5
8 National Art Museum of China 8 中国国家美术馆
D2
9 Guardian Art Center 9 嘉德艺术中心
E2
10 Wangfujing Street 10 王府井大街
E4
11 Black Sesame Kitchen 11 黑芝麻厨房
C2
12 Shijia Hutong Museum 12 史家胡同博物馆
F3
13 Slow Lane 13 慢巷
G3
14 Ancient Observatory 14 古观象台
H5
15 Zhihua Temple 15 智化寺
H3
16 Poly Art Museum 16 保利艺术博物馆
H1
Eating 吃
17 Sijì Mínfú 17 四季民福
D4
18 Sijij Mínfú 18 四季民福
D3
Taste of Dadong 大董的味道
(see 21) （见 21）
19 Duck de Chine 19 大董烤鸭店
F4
20 Xiànr Lăo Măn 20 鲜儿老马
F1
21 Din Tai Fung
E4
22 Yuèbīn Fànguăn 22 悦宾饭馆
D2
23 Pang Mei Noodles 23 胖妹面庄
E2
24 Crescent Moon Muslim Restaurant 24 新月穆斯林餐厅
F1
25 Gourmet Lane
E5
26 Chuān Bàn 26 川办
H4
27 Grandma's
E4
Susu
(see 23) （见 23）
28 TRB Hutong 28 TRB 胡同
D1
Fù Chūn Jū 富春居
(see 9) （见 9）
Rive Gauche 左岸
(see 9) （见 9）
5 Quanjude Roast Duck Hepingmen A6
6 Bianyifang Roast Duck C6
7 National Centre for the Performing Arts B5
8 National Art Museum of China D2
9 Guardian Art Center E2
10 Wangfujing Street E4
11 Black Sesame Kitchen C2
12 Shijia Hutong Museum F3
13 Slow Lane G3
14 Ancient Observatory H5
15 Zhihua Temple H3
16 Poly Art Museum H1
Eating
17 Sijì Mínfú D4
18 Sijij Mínfú D3
Taste of Dadong (see 21)
19 Duck de Chine F4
20 Xiànr Lăo Măn F1
21 Din Tai Fung E4
22 Yuèbīn Fànguăn D2
23 Pang Mei Noodles E2
24 Crescent Moon Muslim Restaurant F1
25 Gourmet Lane E5
26 Chuān Bàn H4
27 Grandma's E4
Susu (see 23)
28 TRB Hutong D1
Fù Chūn Jū (see 9)
Rive Gauche (see 9)| 5 Quanjude Roast Duck Hepingmen | A6 |
| :---: | :---: |
| 6 Bianyifang Roast Duck | C6 |
| 7 National Centre for the Performing Arts | B5 |
| 8 National Art Museum of China | D2 |
| 9 Guardian Art Center | E2 |
| 10 Wangfujing Street | E4 |
| 11 Black Sesame Kitchen | C2 |
| 12 Shijia Hutong Museum | F3 |
| 13 Slow Lane | G3 |
| 14 Ancient Observatory | H5 |
| 15 Zhihua Temple | H3 |
| 16 Poly Art Museum | H1 |
| Eating | |
| 17 Sijì Mínfú | D4 |
| 18 Sijij Mínfú | D3 |
| Taste of Dadong | (see 21) |
| 19 Duck de Chine | F4 |
| 20 Xiànr Lăo Măn | F1 |
| 21 Din Tai Fung | E4 |
| 22 Yuèbīn Fànguăn | D2 |
| 23 Pang Mei Noodles | E2 |
| 24 Crescent Moon Muslim Restaurant | F1 |
| 25 Gourmet Lane | E5 |
| 26 Chuān Bàn | H4 |
| 27 Grandma's | E4 |
| Susu | (see 23) |
| 28 TRB Hutong | D1 |
| Fù Chūn Jū | (see 9) |
| Rive Gauche | (see 9) |
Jing-A Longfusi (see 23)
29 Slowboat DSK Taproom F3
30 MO Bar D4
31 Laijin Yuxuan Teahouse C5
Book Cafe (see 9)| Jing-A Longfusi | (see 23) |
| :--- | ---: |
| 29 Slowboat DSK Taproom | F3 |
| 30 MO Bar | D4 |
| 31 Laijin Yuxuan Teahouse | C5 |
| Book Cafe | (see 9) |
TOP EXPERIENCE 顶级体验
Tiananmen Square 天安门广场
Flanked by triumphalist Soviet－style buildings，Tiananmen Square （天安门广场，Tiān＇ānmén Guǎngchǎng）is hallowed ground for the Communist Party．Watched over by Mao＇s portrait and haunted by the protesters of generations past，it＇s not the most easy－going of places， but it remains one of the nation＇s most stirring destinations． 两侧是气势恢宏的苏联风格建筑，天安门广场（Tiān'ānmén Guǎngchǎng）是共产党的圣地。在毛泽东肖像的注视下，并萦绕着过去几代抗议者的幽灵，这里并不是最轻松的地方，但它仍然是这个国家最激动人心的目的地之一
MAP GOOGLE MAP 地图 GOOGLE MAP
PLANNING TIP 规划小贴士
Advance reservations must be made via WeChat. You’ll need to ask a local travel agent or your concierge to arrange this unless you can read Chinese and have a local phone number. 必须通过微信提前预订。除非你会中文且有本地电话号码，否则你需要请当地旅行社或礼宾部帮你安排。
Scan to reserve a ticket for Tiananmen Square through a local travel agent 扫描通过当地旅行社预订天安门广场门票
Entrance & Orientation 入口与方位
At the time of writing, Tiananmen had two main entrances: one at the Tiananmen East subway stop (line 1) and the other at the Qianmen subway stop (line 2). Security is tight: your bags will be checked at least once, and you will be asked to show your passport multiple times (reservations are tied to your passport number, so you don’t need a digital ticket). Queues in the morning can easily last up to two hours, but are often shorter in the afternoon. When you gain access to the square, you’ll be able to visit three other sights: the Chairman Mao Memorial Hall (in the centre), the National Museum of China (east) and the Gate of Heavenly Peace (north). If you are planning on visiting the Forbidden City on the same day, visit Tiananmen first, as you cannot enter the square in the reverse direction. 在撰写本文时，天安门有两个主要入口：一个位于地铁 1 号线天安门东站，另一个位于地铁 2 号线前门站。安检非常严格：您的包至少会被检查一次，并且需要多次出示护照（预约与护照号码绑定，因此不需要电子票）。早晨的排队时间可能长达两小时，但下午通常较短。进入广场后，您可以参观另外三个景点：毛主席纪念堂（位于中心）、中国国家博物馆（东侧）和天安门（北侧）。如果您计划在同一天参观故宫，请先游览天安门，因为您无法从相反方向进入广场。
The Square 广场
The rectangular arrangement of Tiananmen Square, its many red flags rippling in the wind, to some extent pays obeisance to traditional Chinese culture, but most of its ornaments and buildings are Soviet-inspired. Mao conceived the square to project the power of the Communist Party, and during the Cultural Revolution he reviewed parades of up to a million people 天安门广场的矩形布局及其众多在风中飘扬的红旗在某种程度上向中国传统文化致敬，但其大部分装饰和建筑都受到苏联风格的启发。毛泽东构想这个广场是为了展示中国共产党的力量，在文化大革命期间，他检阅了多达百万人的游行队伍。
here．In the centre of the square is the Monument to the People＇s Heroes，a 40m－tall obelisk． 这里。广场的中心是人民英雄纪念碑，一座 40 米高的方尖碑
Prior to the fall of the Qing dynasty，this area was home to the imperial court＇s most important ministries，which flanked a long walkway leading from the Inner City walls and Qianmen Gate（currently off－limits）at the square＇s southern end．It has also traditionally been the site where commoners and officials could publicly lodge grievances with the emperor． This practice was revived several times over the course of the 20th century， initially on 4 May 1919 （when students called for a stronger government）， and most tragically in 1989，following the death of the reform－minded general secretary Hu Yaobang，when disgruntled students and workers again protested against authorities． 在清朝灭亡之前，这片区域曾是朝廷最重要的部院所在地，它们位于一条从内城墙和前门（目前禁止通行）通向广场南端的长廊两侧。这里也是传统上平民和官员可以公开向皇帝表达不满的地方。这一做法在 20 世纪曾多次复兴，最初是在 1919 年 5 月 4 日（当时学生呼吁建立一个更强大的政府），而最悲剧性的是在 1989 年，在改革派总书记胡耀邦去世后，心怀不满的学生和工人再次抗议当局
Early risers can watch the daily sunrise flag－raising ceremony，performed by a troop of People＇s Liberation Army（PLA）soldiers marching at precisely 108 paces per minute， 75 cm per pace．The reverse ceremony is at sunset． 早起者可以观看每日的日出升旗仪式，由中国人民解放军（PLA）士兵以每分钟 108 步、每步 75 厘米的精确步伐进行。日落时则举行降旗仪式
QUICK BREAK 快速休息
A few simple cafeterias are located in the square’s southeastern corner, near the Qianmen entrance. If you have tickets for the National Museum, its cafe is better. 广场的东南角有几家简单的自助餐厅，靠近前门入口。如果你有国家博物馆的门票，那里的咖啡馆更好。
Chairman Mao Memorial Hall 毛主席纪念堂
One of Beijing＇s more surreal spectacles is the sight of Mao Zedong＇s embalmed corpse on public display in his mausoleum（毛主席纪念堂，Máo Zhǔxí Jìniàntáng），located at the heart of Tiananmen Square．You must make advance reservations via WeChat（Chinese only）；it＇s open 8am to noon， Tuesday to Sunday．Tickets are hard to get． 北京一处超现实的景象是毛泽东的遗体在他的纪念堂（毛主席纪念堂，Máo Zhǔxí Jìniàntáng）中公开展示，位于天安门广场的中心。你必须通过微信（仅限中文）提前预约；开放时间为周二至周日的上午 8 点至中午 12 点。门票很难获得
1989 PROTESTS 1989 年抗议
Tiananmen Square is best known outside China for the tragic events 天安门广场在中国以外最为人所知的是其悲剧事件
of 3－4 June 1989．After six weeks of pro－democracy protests，when up to a million students and workers occupied the square，the army was sent in to crush the＇counter－revolutionary riot＇．Few young people in China today know anything about the protests and subsequent deaths，a black mark that has been scrubbed from the collective conscience． 1989 年 6 月 3 日至 4 日。经过六周的民主抗议活动，当多达一百万学生和工人占领广场时，军队被派去镇压“反革命暴乱”。如今，中国很少有年轻人了解这些抗议活动及随后的死亡事件，这一污点已被从集体意识中抹去
National Museum of China 中国国家博物馆
Beijing＇s best museum（中国国家博物馆，Zhōngguó Guójiā Bówùguăn）is unfortunately ensconced within the massive Tiananmen security zone， meaning you＇ll need to pass through security queues twice（once for the square and again for the museum）to get in．Despite the hurdles，it is absolutely worth it．The basement is the star attraction，where numerous galleries introduce artefacts that span the entirety of Chinese civilisation， from prehistoric jade and bronze pieces through Han dynasty figurines，and on to priceless ceramics，calligraphy and Buddhist sculptures．The building，a socialist－realist block，is east of the square and was one of Mao＇s Ten Great Buildings erected in 1959 to celebrate a decade of the PRC．Separate advance reservations are required（via WeChat，in Chinese）． 北京最好的博物馆（中国国家博物馆，Zhōngguó Guójiā Bówùguăn）不幸地坐落于庞大的天安门安全区内，这意味着你需要通过两次安检（一次是广场，另一次是博物馆）才能进入。尽管有这些障碍，它绝对值得一游。地下室是主要的亮点，众多展厅展示了从史前玉器和青铜器到汉代陶俑，再到无价的陶瓷、书法和佛教雕塑，贯穿了整个中国文明的文物。这座社会主义现实主义风格的建筑位于广场东侧，是 1959 年为庆祝中华人民共和国成立十周年而建的十大建筑之一。需要单独提前预约（通过微信，中文）
Gate of Heavenly Peace 天安门
Instantly recognisable by its giant framed portrait of Mao，the double－eaved Gate of Heavenly Peace（天安门，Tiān＇ānmén）is a potent national symbol． Formerly the largest of the four gates of the Imperial City Wall，it was from here that Mao proclaimed the founding of the People＇s Republic of China in 1949，and where every president since has addressed the nation and surveyed military parades．The gate has incredible views of the square and absolutely merits a climb，but you need advance tickets（via WeChat，in Chinese），which sell out quickly．Foreigners must first show their passport at the customer service window，pick up a paper ticket and then check all bags before entering．The balcony is about as sacred a space as you can find in communist China，so be on your best behaviour． 天安门（Tiān’ānmén）以其巨大的毛泽东肖像而立即被识别，是一个强大的国家象征。作为昔日皇城四门中最大的一座，1949 年毛泽东在此宣布了中华人民共和国的成立，此后历任国家主席也在此向全国发表讲话并检阅军队阅兵式。天安门城楼拥有俯瞰广场的绝佳视野，绝对值得登临，但需要提前通过微信（中文界面）购票，且票源紧张。外国人需先在客服窗口出示护照，领取纸质票，并寄存所有包裹后方可进入。城楼上的观礼台堪称共产主义中国最神圣的空间之一，因此请务必保持最佳举止
Even if you don’t have tickets, you can still walk beneath the gate, which takes you to the Forbidden City. Visit this sight last: once you pass beneath it, you cannot turn around to re-enter Tiananmen Square. 即使没有门票，你仍然可以在城门下行走，通往故宫。最后参观这个景点：一旦你从下面经过，就不能转身重新进入天安门广场。
Monolithic and intimidating, the Stalinist Great Hall of the People (1959) west of Tiananmen Square houses the highest organ of state power, the National People’s Congress (NPC). It was closed to 单体而威严的斯大林式人民大会堂（1959 年）位于天安门广场西侧，是国家最高权力机关全国人民代表大会（NPC）的所在地。它曾关闭
foreigners at the time of writing. 撰写本文时的外国人。
TOP EXPERIENCE 顶级体验
Forbidden City 故宫
For all its antiquity，only a century has passed since the last emperor left the Forbidden City（紫禁城，Zǐjìn Chéng），the divine stronghold around which Beijing ripples outwards．On display within are all the treasures and tragedies of 24 rulers and their consorts，eunuchs and palace maids． 尽管历史悠久，但自最后一位皇帝离开紫禁城（Zǐjìn Chéng）以来，仅过去了一个世纪。这座神圣的堡垒是北京向外扩散的中心。城内展示了 24 位统治者及其配偶、太监和宫女的所有珍宝与悲剧
Tickets must be reserved online and generally sell out far in advance. Try the ‘ticket grabbing’ service on the official website if the regular reservations are booked out. 门票必须在线预订，通常提前很久就会售罄。如果常规预订已满，可以尝试官方网站上的“抢票”服务。
Scan to reserve a ticket to the Forbidden City 扫描预订故宫门票
Planning Your Visit 规划您的行程
Although you can explore the Forbidden City in a few hours, a full day will keep you occupied - it is a truly colossal place. Much like the Louvre, you can’t see it all at once, so focus on the parts that sound most interesting. Many visitors get caught up with the vast ceremonial halls and parade grounds of the Outer Court (southern half), but remember that the real thrill comes from exploring the Inner Court: the labyrinth of courtyards and halls north of the Outer Court, laid out on a more human scale. 虽然你可以在几个小时内探索故宫，但一整天都会让你忙个不停——这确实是一个巨大的地方。就像卢浮宫一样，你无法一次性看完所有部分，所以专注于听起来最有趣的部分。许多游客被外朝（南半部分）的宏伟仪式大厅和阅兵场吸引，但请记住，真正的刺激来自于探索内朝：外朝以北的庭院和厅堂迷宫，布局更为人性化。
If you are coming from Tiananmen Square, you’ll enter via the Gate of Heavenly Peace. Otherwise, the entrance is via the east side of the palace on Donghuamen Dajie, from where you’ll cross the moat and follow it to the Meridian Gate. 如果你从天安门广场来，会经由天安门进入。否则，入口在故宫东侧的东华门大街，从那里你将跨过护城河，并沿着它走到午门。
After you pass through security, you can pick up an audio tour ( ¥40¥ 40 ) before entering via the Meridian Gate. Note that the Forbidden City is closed on Mondays. Be prepared to walk long distances. 通过安检后，您可以在进入午门前领取语音导览（ ¥40¥ 40 ）。请注意，故宫每周一闭馆。准备好长时间步行。
History 历史
This gargantuan palace complex was built on the site of a palace dating to Kublai Khan and sheltered two dynasties of emperors (the Ming and the Qing). It may look decadent, but a stultifying code of rules and strict protocol - including a 4 am to 8 pm workday and the detailed documentation of the 这座庞大的宫殿建筑群建立在忽必烈时期的宫殿遗址上，庇护了两朝皇帝（明朝和清朝）。它可能看起来奢靡，但严格的规则和礼仪——包括从凌晨 4 点到晚上 8 点的工作日以及对事务的详细记录——
emperor＇s sex life－made life extremely regimented for rulers．In some sense，it was as if they were under a very lavish house arrest．And，in fact， during the Qing dynasty，many emperors preferred to escape the palace for the gardens of the Old Summer Palace．It wasn＇t until 1911 that revolution came knocking at the huge doors，bringing with it the last orders for dynastic rule． 皇帝的性生活——使统治者的生活极为刻板。从某种意义上说，他们就像被软禁在豪华的宫殿里。事实上，在清朝时期，许多皇帝更愿意逃离皇宫，前往圆明园的园林。直到 1911 年，革命才敲响了巨大的宫门，带来了王朝统治的最后命令
The Forbidden City was redubbed the Palace Museum（故宫博物馆，Gùgōng Bówùguăn），and entry for the common people no longer meant instant death． It opened as a museum in 1925，just one year after Puyi，the abdicated last emperor，departed the Inner Court．The Forbidden City celebrated its 600th anniversary in 2020，and its 100th anniversary as a museum in 2025. 紫禁城更名为故宫博物馆（故宫博物馆，Gùgōng Bówùguăn），普通民众的进入不再意味着即刻死亡。它于 1925 年作为博物馆开放，就在退位的末代皇帝溥仪离开内廷一年后。紫禁城在 2020 年庆祝了其 600 周年纪念，并将在 2025 年庆祝其作为博物馆的 100 周年纪念。
TAKE A BREAK 休息一下
The coolest place to eat is beneath the vaulted ceilings of the former Icehouse（冰䆟餐厅，Bīngjiào Cāntīng）west of the Gate of Heavenly Purity．Don＇t confuse it with the similarly named cafe． 最酷的用餐地点位于乾清门西侧的前冰窖餐厅（冰䆟餐厅，Bīngjiào Cāntīng）的拱形天花板下。不要与名字相似的咖啡馆混淆
Outer Court 外朝
The Outer Court is dominated by the Three Great Halls set in vast cobbled courtyards, which could hold thousands of dignitaries and their sedan chair bearers, guards and servants. 外朝以三大殿为主，坐落在广阔的铺石庭院中，可容纳数千名达官贵人及其轿夫、侍卫和仆人。
The Hall of Supreme Harmony is the most important and largest structure in the Forbidden City. It was used for state occasions, such as the emperor’s birthday, coronations and the nomination of military leaders. Inside the Hall of Supreme Harmony is a richly decorated Dragon Throne, from which the emperor would preside over trembling officials. Behind the Hall of Supreme Harmony is the square Hall of Central Harmony, which was used as the emperor’s transit lounge. Here he would make last-minute preparations, rehearse speeches and receive ministers. The third of the Great Halls is the Hall of Preserving Harmony, used for banquets and later for the palace examinations. 太和殿是紫禁城中最重要且最大的建筑，用于国家大典，如皇帝生日、加冕典礼和军事将领的任命。太和殿内装饰华丽的龙椅，皇帝在此主持朝政，官员们无不战战兢兢。太和殿后方是中和殿，作为皇帝的临时休息室，皇帝在此做最后的准备、练习演讲并接见大臣。三大殿中的最后一座是保和殿，用于宴会，后来用于殿试。
Side Galleries 侧廊
The Outer Court’s side galleries make for peaceful detours: the Hall of Martial Valour is where emperors received ministers. The Hall of Literary Brilliance complex was formerly used as a residence by the crown prince. Both house rotating exhibitions. 外廷的侧廊是宁静的绕行之地：武英殿是皇帝接见大臣的地方。文华殿建筑群曾是太子的居所。两者都举办轮换展览。
YANXI PALACE
It’s hard to get a sense of what life inside the Forbidden City was actually like on a visit, but for a dramatic reimagining, watch Yanxi Palace, a lush (albeit somewhat silly) television drama that follows the quick-witted embroidery maid Wei Yingluo as she navigates the perils of court life and rises to power among the imperial consorts. Bertolucci’s gorgeous The Last Emperor, meanwhile, was filmed on site. 很难在参观时真正感受到紫禁城内的生活是怎样的，但为了一个戏剧性的重新想象，可以观看《延禧攻略》，这部华丽（尽管有些傻气）的电视剧讲述了机智的绣女魏璎珞在宫廷生活中应对危险并最终在妃嫔中崛起的故事。贝托鲁奇的华丽之作《末代皇帝》则是在现场拍摄的。
Inner Court 内廷
Unless you have all day, focus on just one or two sections within the Inner Court. All are fascinating. 除非你有一整天的时间，否则只专注于内廷的一两个区域即可。每一个都令人着迷。
Palace of Compassion & Tranquillity 慈宁宫
West of the Hall of Preserving Harmony is the Palace of Compassion & Tranquillity (1536), where the empresses and consorts of deceased emperors resided, not being permitted to serve the new emperor. The main complex has an excellent exhibit of Buddhist statuary, while the adjacent Palace of Longevity & Health unveils the period furnishings of the Empress Dowager Chongqing (1736-77). Directly south is the Garden of the Palace of Compassion & Tranquillity. 保和殿西侧是慈宁宫（1536 年），已故皇帝的皇后和妃嫔居住于此，她们不被允许侍奉新皇帝。主建筑群中有精美的佛教雕像展览，而毗邻的寿康宫则展示了崇庆皇太后（1736-77 年）时期的陈设。正南方向是慈宁宫花园。
Treasure Gallery 珍宝馆
East of the Hall of Preserving Harmony is the extensive Palace of Tranquil Longevity, also known as the Treasure Gallery (separate ¥10¥ 10 admission), which the Qianlong Emperor built for his retirement (which he never took) in 1771. Today it comprises a number of atmospheric halls, gardens and courtyard buildings that hold some fine exhibits from the Palace Museum collection. 保和殿东侧是规模宏大的宁寿宫，又称珍宝馆（需另行购票），乾隆皇帝于 1771 年建造，本打算用于退休（但他从未退休）。如今，这里包括多个富有氛围的殿堂、花园和庭院建筑，展示着故宫博物院收藏的一些精美展品。
Highlights include the beautiful glazed Nine Dragon Screen, one of only three of its type left in China, and the Belvedere of Cheerful Melodies, a three-storey wooden opera house. 亮点包括精美的琉璃九龙壁，这是中国仅存的三座之一，以及三层木结构的畅音阁戏楼。
Before a visit to the Treasure Gallery, be sure to visit the Hall of Clocks and the Hall of Abstinence, where the emperor would purify himself before important rituals. 在参观珍宝馆之前，一定要先去钟表馆和斋宫，皇帝在重要仪式前会在那里净化自己。
IMPERIAL GARDEN
At the northern end of the Forbidden City is the Imperial Garden, where emperors and their consorts could retreat to read, relax, sip tea and stroll past rockeries and ancient cypresses. At its centre is 在紫禁城的北端是御花园，皇帝和妃嫔们可以在这里退隐读书、放松、品茶，并漫步于假山和古柏之间。其中心是
the double-eaved Hall of Imperial Peace. The Lodge of Spiritual Cultivation is where Scottish tutor Sir Reginald Johnston gave English lessons to the abdicated emperor Puyi. 双层檐的皇极殿。养心殿是苏格兰导师庄士敦爵士为退位皇帝溥仪教授英语的地方。
The Central Halls
The basic configuration of the Outer Court is echoed by the next group of buildings along the central axis, reached through the Gate of Heavenly Purity. Though smaller in scale, these buildings were more important in terms of real power, which in China traditionally lies at the back door. 外朝的基本布局与中央轴线上的下一组建筑相呼应，这些建筑通过乾清门进入。虽然规模较小，但这些建筑在实权方面更为重要，因为在中国传统中，实权往往掌握在后门。
The first structure is the Palace of Heavenly Purity, a residence of Ming and early Qing emperors, and later an audience hall for receiving foreign envoys and high officials. Immediately behind it is the Hall of Union, which contains a clepsydra - a water clock made in 1745 with five bronze vessels and a calibrated scale. The Palace of Earthly Tranquillity was the imperial couple’s bridal chamber and where the empress ruled the Inner Court. 第一座建筑是乾清宫，明朝和清朝初期的皇帝居所，后来成为接见外国使节和高级官员的觐见大厅。紧接其后的是交泰殿，内设一座铜壶滴漏——1745 年制作的五壶漏刻，配有校准刻度。坤宁宫则是皇帝夫妇的婚房，也是皇后掌管内廷的地方。
Eastern & Western Palaces 东宫与西宫
A dozen smaller palace courtyards lie east and west of the three lesser central halls. It was in these self-contained abodes where most emperors actually lived. Many of the buildings, particularly those to the west, are decked out in imperial furniture. 三座较小的中央大殿东西两侧分布着十几座较小的宫院。大多数皇帝实际上就居住在这些独立的住所中。许多建筑，尤其是西侧的，都装饰着皇家家具。
The six eastern palaces were the living quarters of imperial consorts and their sons during Qing times. Exhibitions here display a variety of cultural relics, from ceramics and jade to musical instruments and ceremonial bronze vessels. The most unusual is the Palace of Prolonging Happiness (aka Yanxi Palace), which features an unfinished 20th-century western-style building with an intricately carved white marble facade. 东六宫是清朝时期皇妃及其子嗣的居住区。这里的展览展示了从陶瓷、玉器到乐器和礼器青铜器等各种文物。最特别的是延禧宫，它拥有一座未完工的 20 世纪西式建筑，外立面雕刻精美的白色大理石。
The six western palaces include the Palace of Gathered Elegance, which contains photographs and artefacts relating to the last emperor, Puyi, who lived here as a child ruler. The Palace of Earthly Honour, with its period interiors, was where Empress Dowager Cixi received courtiers on her 50th birthday. As a young consort, she lived in the Palace of Gathered Elegance to 西六宫包括储秀宫，这里收藏着与末代皇帝溥仪相关的照片和文物，他小时候曾在这里居住。体和殿拥有其时代特色的内部装饰，慈禧太后曾在此庆祝她的五十大寿并接见朝臣。年轻时，她作为妃嫔居住在储秀宫。
the north. At the head of the western palaces is the Hall of Mental Cultivation, often the emperor’s residence and office. 在西部宫殿的尽头是养心殿，通常是皇帝的住所和办公室。
The Forbidden City is laid out almost symmetrically on a 7.8 km north-south axis that extended south to Yongding Gate and north to the Drum and Bell Towers. 故宫几乎对称地布局在一条 7.8 公里的南北轴线上，这条轴线向南延伸至永定门，向北延伸至鼓楼和钟楼。
EXPERIENCES 体验
From Ancestor Worship to Class Struggle 从祖先崇拜到阶级斗争
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Hidden between Tiananmen Square and the Forbidden City are two havens of shaded park space：the Workers＇Cultural Palace（劳动人民文化宫， Láodòng Rénmín Wénhuà Gōng）to the east and Zhongshan Park to the west． Both are accessible to the public without advance reservations for either of the main sights． 隐藏在天安门广场和紫禁城之间的是两片绿树成荫的公园空间：东边的劳动人民文化宫（Láodòng Rénmín Wénhuà Gōng）和西边的中山公园。两者都无需提前预约即可进入主要景点
For several centuries，the Cultural Palace－originally known as Imperial Ancestral Temple（太庙，Tài Miào）－was one of the most sacred temples in Beijing，where emperors would come to worship．Its three halls remain an excellent example of Ming architecture．Ancient cypress and pine trees，one reputedly planted by a Ming emperor，line the approach to the Five－Coloured Glazed Gate，said to be a 15th－century original，which would make it older than those in the mostly Qing－era Forbidden City next door． 几个世纪以来，文化宫——最初称为太庙（Tài Miào）——曾是北京最神圣的寺庙之一，皇帝们会前来祭祀。它的三座大殿依然是明代建筑的杰出典范。古老的柏树和松树，其中一棵据说明代皇帝亲手种植，排列在通往五色琉璃门的道路上，据说这座门是 15 世纪的原物，比邻近主要建于清代的紫禁城中的同类建筑更为古老
Inside，marble bridges lead to three flights of steps ascending to the magnificent Sacrificial Hall，which resembles the Hall of Supreme Harmony in the Forbidden City．Spirits alone were permitted to traverse the central plinth；the emperor was consigned to the left－hand flight．This hall would have held the thrones of departed royals and their consorts；now it holds rotating calligraphy displays． 内部，大理石桥通向三段台阶，通往宏伟的祭殿，其形制类似于紫禁城的太和殿。唯有神灵被允许穿越中央的台基；皇帝则被安排在左侧台阶。这座殿堂原本供奉着已故皇室成员及其配偶的宝座；如今则展示着轮换的书法作品
Sip Tea in Zhongshan Park 在 Zhongshan Park 品茶
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Named after China＇s first president Sun Yatsen（aka Sun Zhongshan），whose body was placed here briefly after his death，this lovely park（中山公园， Zhōngshān Gōngyuán）sits at the southwest corner of the Forbidden City． The park used to be royal gardens containing the sacred Altar of Land \＆ Grain，where the emperor offered sacrifices twice a year．The altar，a square open－air dais，is the centrepiece；the surrounding halls contain displays on the sacrificial rituals．In 1914，it became the first public park in Beijing． 这座美丽的公园（中山公园，Zhōngshān Gōngyuán）以中国首任总统孙中山（又名孙逸仙）的名字命名，他去世后遗体曾短暂安放在此。公园位于紫禁城的西南角，曾是皇家园林，内有神圣的社稷坛，皇帝每年在此举行两次祭祀。社稷坛是一个方形的露天祭坛，是公园的核心；周围的殿堂展示了祭祀仪式的相关内容。1914 年，这里成为北京的第一座公共公园
The real highlight here，however，is the historic Laijin Yuxuan Teahouse， which makes for an excellent place to take a break in between visits to Tiananmen Square and the Forbidden City．Savour a cup of jasmine tea and sample the famous steamed buns（pork and mustard greens），while the soothing sounds of the Chinese zither wash away the nearby tourist hubbub． After it first opened in 1915，it became a popular meeting spot for Chinese intellectuals，such as the writer Lu Xun． 然而，这里真正的亮点是历史悠久的来今雨轩茶社，它是在参观天安门广场和故宫之间休息的绝佳场所。品尝一杯茉莉花茶，尝尝著名的包子（猪肉和芥菜馅），同时悠扬的古筝声将周围的游客喧嚣一扫而空。自 1915 年首次开业以来，它成为了中国知识分子如作家鲁迅等人的热门聚会场所
Climb to the Top of Jingshan Park 登上景山公园的顶端
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Beijing＇s finest park（景山公园，Jǐngshān Gōngyuán）is located directly across the road from the Forbidden City＇s north gate（the exit）．At first glance，you would never guess that this is an artificial hill，but it was created centuries ago from the sediment excavated to make the palace moat．Its location is in accordance with feng shui principles，as it protects the palace from the negative yin energy－and dust storms－of the north． 北京最好的公园（景山公园，Jǐngshān Gōngyuán）位于故宫北门（出口）正对面。乍一看，你绝不会猜到这是一座人造山，但它是在几个世纪前由挖掘宫殿护城河时挖出的沉积物堆砌而成。其位置符合风水原则，因为它保护宫殿免受北方阴气和沙尘暴的负面影响
A fitting coda to any Forbidden City tour，if you have the energy，is to clamber up to the 46 m －high summit，which affords princely views of all Beijing and the palace below．Time your ascent for sunset and you＇ll have a knockout post on Instagram．Alternatively，visit in the early morning to join in with elderly folk going about their dawn routines of dancing，performing taichi or playing jiànzi（kick－shuttlecock）． 如果你还有精力，爬上 46 米高的山顶是结束故宫之旅的完美方式，从那里可以俯瞰整个北京城和下方的宫殿。选择在日落时分攀登，你将在 Instagram 上发布一张惊艳的照片。或者，清晨时分前往，加入老年人的晨练队伍，他们或跳舞、或打太极、或踢毽子
On the park＇s eastern side，a Chinese scholar tree stands in the place where，according to legend，the last Ming emperor hanged himself as a peasant rebellion swarmed into the capital unopposed． 在公园的东侧，一棵国槐矗立在那里，据传说，明朝的最后一位皇帝在农民起义军毫无阻拦地涌入首都时，在此自缢身亡
Imperial Veneration at Shouhuang Palace 在寿皇殿的皇家祭祀
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At the northern edge of Jingshan Park is Shouhuang Palace（寿皇殿， Shòuhuáng Diàn），built in 1749 during the reign of the Qianlong Emperor to honour his Manchu ancestors．Under the communists it served as the Children＇s Palace，before the halls were restored in 2018．Be sure to check 在景山公园的北端是寿皇殿（Shòuhuáng Diàn），建于 1749 年乾隆皇帝统治时期，以纪念他的满族祖先。在共产党执政期间，它曾作为少年宫使用，直到 2018 年这些殿堂得到修复。一定要去看看
out the exhibits in the rear courtyard, where you’ll find a video, paintings and scale models of the rites and imperial processions. Also look for the pair of yellow-and-green glazed tile furnaces, used for burning silk and spirit tablets as offerings to deceased ancestors. 在后院参观展品，您会看到一段视频、绘画以及仪式和皇帝出巡的比例模型。同时，留意那一对黄绿琉璃砖炉，它们用于焚烧丝绸和神位牌，作为对逝去祖先的祭品。
THE MANCHU 满族
The Manchu were the rulers of China’s last imperial dynasty, the Qing, sweeping into Beijing in 1644 from their homeland in northeast Asia. 满族是中国最后一个帝国王朝——清朝的统治者，他们于 1644 年从东北亚的故乡进入北京。
As a foreign dynasty, they took great pains to present themselves as legitimate successors, all the while attempting to keep their customs and language distinct. For instance, they prohibited Manchu women from binding their feet, forbid Han Chinese from settling in Manchuria (unsuccessful) and forced all Chinese men to adopt the Manchu hairstyle (the queue) upon pain of death. 作为一个外来王朝，他们煞费苦心地将自己塑造成合法的继承者，同时试图保持自己的习俗和语言的独特性。例如，他们禁止满族妇女缠足，禁止汉人在满洲定居（未成功），并强迫所有中国男子采用满族发型（辫子），违者处死。
Despite these attempts, by the fall of the Qing dynasty, many Manchu had become indistinguishable from the northern Chinese. 尽管有这些尝试，到清朝末期，许多满族人与中国北方人已难以区分。
Perfect Peking Duck 完美的北京烤鸭
Few visitors leave town without trying Peking duck (烤鸭, kǎoyā), the capital’s most iconic dish. Its origins go back to the 14th century, when it was first listed in royal cookbooks, although nowadays most restaurants use openfronted hung ovens, which were pioneered by Quanjude Roast Duck (MAP Gooclemap), Beijing’s most famous roast-duck brand name. Quanjude also intro-duced the method of roasting over the wood of fruit trees to impart a perfume into the skin, and wrapping the meat in thin wheat pancakes. 很少有游客离开北京时不尝试一下最具代表性的菜肴——北京烤鸭（烤鸭, kǎoyā）。其起源可以追溯到 14 世纪，当时它首次被列入皇家食谱，不过如今大多数餐厅都使用开放式挂炉，这种烤炉是由北京最著名的烤鸭品牌全聚德（MAP Gooclemap）首创的。全聚德还引入了用果木烤制的方法，使鸭皮带有香味，并将鸭肉包裹在薄薄的小麦煎饼中。
When ordering a duck you can choose between a half duck (feeds two) or the whole quacker (feeds three to four); if you get the whole bird, it is often carved before you at the table. While this is taking place, whet your appetite by dipping some of the ultra-crispy skin into sugar - it’s pure decadence. 点鸭肉时，你可以选择半只鸭（供两人食用）或整只鸭（供三到四人食用）；如果你点的是整只鸭，通常会在餐桌前现场片鸭。在片鸭的过程中，你可以将一些超脆的鸭皮蘸糖来开胃——这简直是极致的享受。
When the duck is carved, it’s time to assemble your pancakes. Begin by dipping two or three slices of meat into the fermented bean sauce, then place the slices at the top of the wrapper. Add some julienned cucumbers and scallions on top, and perhaps some pickled veggies and garlic sauce while 当鸭子片好后，就是组装煎饼的时候了。先将两到三片鸭肉蘸上甜面酱，然后放在饼皮的上方。在上面加上一些黄瓜丝和葱丝，还可以加些腌菜和蒜酱。
you＇re at it．Fold the wrapper in half（a semicircle），and then fold in the sides so nothing leaks out．Voila！You＇re ready to enjoy the ultimate Beijing meal． Traditionally，a light duck soup is served after you＇re done eating to cleanse your palate，but some restaurants serve it at the same time as the duck． 你继续。将包装纸对折成半圆形，然后将两侧折起以防漏出。瞧！你准备好享用北京终极美食了。传统上，吃完后会上一碗清淡的鸭汤来清洁味蕾，但有些餐厅会在上鸭子的同时提供汤
There are plenty of places to sample the delicacy：three of our favourites are Sijì Mínfú，Taste of Dadong and Biànyífāng（MAP GOocle MAP）．The first two have branches east of the Forbidden City；the last has a location southeast of Tiananmen Square． 品尝这道美食的地方很多：我们最爱的三家是四季民福、大董烤鸭和便宜坊（见地图 GOOGLE MAP）。前两家在故宫以东有分店；最后一家位于天安门广场东南方向
Classical Music at the Egg 国家大剧院“蛋壳”内的古典音乐
MUSIC VENUE 音乐场馆
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Plonked in the middle of an artificial lake like an alien spaceship，the Paul Andreu－designed National Centre for the Performing Arts（国家大剧院， Guójiā Dājùyuàn； 2 Xichang＇an Jie，西长安街2号）－aka the＇Egg＇－is a surreal yet spectacular venue at which to catch a performance of opera （Western and Chinese），ballet and classical music．Online booking is in Chinese only． 坐落于人工湖中央，宛如外星飞船的保罗·安德鲁设计的国家大剧院（国家大剧院，Guójiā Dàjùyuàn；西长安街 2 号）——又称“蛋”——是一个超现实而又壮观的场所，适合观赏歌剧（西方和中国）、芭蕾舞和古典音乐演出。在线预订仅提供中文服务
Even if you don＇t see a show，you can tour the venue during the day to admire the architecture and peek into the three concert venues． 即使不看演出，你也可以在白天参观场馆，欣赏建筑并窥探三个音乐厅的内部
Contemporary Creations at the National Art Museum 国家美术馆的当代创作
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Opened in 1963 with the personal endorsement of Mao Zedong，the National Art Museum（中国美术馆，Zhōngguó Měishùguǎn； 1 Wusi Dajie，五四大街1号）was conceived as the PRC＇s national nerve centre for artistic expression． 1963 年，在毛泽东的个人支持下，中国美术馆（National Art Museum，Zhōngguó Měishùguǎn；五四大街 1 号）正式开放，它被设想为中华人民共和国艺术表达的国家神经中枢
In recent years the museum has shaken off its reputation for stodgy，state－ supervised exhibitions by inviting galleries from abroad to exhibit，and at the same time revamping its own output，often in collaboration with Beijing＇s prestigious Central Academy of Fine Arts．There are usually at least four exhibitions being staged at once．It＇s closed Mondays． 近年来，该博物馆通过邀请国外画廊展出，并与北京著名的中央美术学院合作，彻底摆脱了其展览由政府主导、内容沉闷的声誉，同时对自身展览进行了革新。通常至少同时举办四场展览。每周一闭馆
Admire Antiques at the Guardian Art Center 在 Guardian Art Center 欣赏古董
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China＇s largest auction house，the Guardian Art Center（嘉德艺术中心， Jiādé Yìshù Zhōngxīn； 1 Wangfujing Dajie，王府井大街1号）has a new home across from the National Art Museum．The gorgeous two－storey building is composed of interlocking rectangular blocks，pierced with different－sized circular apertures and topped with glass bricks on the upper level．Inside you＇ll find an exhibition space，the auction area，a quiet bookstore and cafe，along with the PuXuan Hotel and gastronomic restaurants like Fù Chūn Jū ． 中国最大的拍卖行——嘉德艺术中心（Jiādé Yìshù Zhōngxīn；王府井大街 1 号）在中国美术馆对面有了新家。这座华丽的两层建筑由相互交错的矩形块组成，上面点缀着不同大小的圆形开口，上层铺有玻璃砖。内部设有展览空间、拍卖区、安静的书店和咖啡馆，以及璞瑄酒店和福春居等美食餐厅
It＇s best for its temporary exhibits，which range from antiques from the Forbidden City to Qing dynasty thangkas from Tibet．It usually holds auctions twice a year． 它最吸引人的是临时展览，展品从故宫的古董到清朝的西藏唐卡都有。通常每年会举办两次拍卖会
WANGFUJING STREET 王府井大街
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One－time home to Manchu princes and the site of Beijing＇s most glamorous shopping strip back in the Deng Xiaoping era，Wangfujing（王府井大街，Wángfǔjǐng Dàjiē）is a name that still carries weight in China，even if there＇s nothing left to see here．It is an excellent place to grab a meal，however． 曾经是满洲王子的居所，也是邓小平时代北京最繁华的购物街，王府井大街（Wángfǔjǐng Dàjiē）这个名字在中国仍然具有分量，尽管这里已无多少可看之处。不过，这里是个用餐的好地方
Oriental Plaza has a handy basement food court at the exit of Wangfujing subway－just one stop away from Tiananmen East on Line 1．Meanwhile，the apm mall has a fine collection of more upscale restaurants，like global dumpling kings Din Tai Fung and Peking duck at Taste of Dadong． 东方广场在王府井地铁站出口处有一个便利的地下美食广场——距离 1 号线的天安门东站仅一站之遥。同时，apm 商场汇集了更多高端餐厅，如全球饺子大王鼎泰丰和大董烤鸭
Master Chinese Cooking 掌握中国烹饪
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If you＇ve ever tried to make mapo tofu or kung pao chicken at home，then you know－even with a good recipe，mastering the techniques and balance of flavours can seem all but impossible．Don＇t be discouraged，however：you can learn the ways of the wok and get your dumpling－wrapping skills in order 如果你曾尝试在家制作麻婆豆腐或宫保鸡丁，那么你就会知道——即使有一份好食谱，掌握烹饪技巧和味道的平衡似乎几乎是不可能的。不过，别灰心：你可以学习炒锅的使用方法，并让你的包饺子技巧变得熟练
at two long－standing cooking schools that teach in English． 在两所长期以英语授课的烹饪学校
Black Sesame Kitchen（黑芝麻厨房，Hēi Zhīmá Chúfáng；WeChat： BlackSesameKitchen）runs private classes near Jingshan Park；book ahead． Many people skip the cooking entirely，and go straight for the 10 －course communal dinners（ ¥350¥ 350 ）．Held in a traditional courtyard with wine and beer， these meals are an excellent way to meet other travellers．Reserve． 黑芝麻厨房（Black Sesame Kitchen；微信：BlackSesameKitchen）在景山公园附近开设私人课程；需提前预订。许多人完全跳过烹饪环节，直接参加 10 道菜的共享晚餐（ ¥350¥ 350 ）。这些餐会在传统的四合院中举行，提供葡萄酒和啤酒，是结识其他旅行者的绝佳方式。需预订
Another school that teaches a variety of cooking styles is The Hutong （thehutong．com）．This superb cultural centre，located in the Drum Tower neighbourhood，runs five to six classes a week，revealing the secrets of hand－ pulled noodles，ethnic minority cuisines as well as all the Beijing and Sichuan classics．Courses are 2(1)/(2)2 \frac{1}{2} hours long，cost ¥350¥ 350 and conclude with a meal． 另一所教授多种烹饪风格的学校是 The Hutong（thehutong.com）。这个位于鼓楼附近的优秀文化中心每周开设五到六节课，揭示手拉面、少数民族美食以及所有北京和四川经典菜肴的秘诀。课程时长为 2(1)/(2)2 \frac{1}{2} 小时，费用为 ¥350¥ 350 ，并以一顿餐结束
Get a Glimpse of Life in the Hutong 一瞥胡同生活
Beijing＇s distinctive alleyways are known as hutong．Sheltered behind the grey－brick walls of these east－west alleyways are single－storey courtyard homes（sihéyuàn），shaded by trees within．Oases from the world outside，the plain exteriors of Beijing homes were originally completely windowless to keep out the ever－present dust and bitter northern winds．Even today，this tradition of enclosed courtyards means that getting a sense of a traditional home from street level can be quite difficult． 北京独特的胡同以灰色砖墙为屏障，东西走向的胡同里隐藏着单层的四合院，院内绿树成荫。这些胡同是外界的绿洲，北京住宅的朴素外观最初完全没有窗户，以阻挡无处不在的灰尘和刺骨的北风。即使在今天，这种封闭庭院的传统也意味着从街道层面很难感受到传统住宅的氛围
Enter the Shijia Hutong Museum（MAP Goocle MAP；史家胡同博物馆， Shǐjiā Hútóng Bówùguăn； 24 Shijia Hutong，史家胡同 24 号）．Here，you＇ll be able to see the layout of a traditional courtyard，as well as learn a bit about the disputed etymology of the word hutong（Mongolian or Han？）and admire scale models of the neighbourhood as it might have appeared when the the Bordered White Manchu Bannermen lived here． 进入史家胡同博物馆（MAP Google MAP；史家胡同博物馆，Shǐjiā Hútóng Bówùguǎn；史家胡同 24 号）。在这里，你将能够看到传统四合院的布局，了解关于“胡同”一词词源（蒙古语还是汉语？）的争议，并欣赏这个街区在镶白旗满洲旗人居住时期可能的样子比例模型
Nearby is the exquisite alleyway boutique Slow Lane（MAP Goocle MAP；细活裡，Xì Huó Ľ̌； 13 Shijia Hutong，史家胡同13号），which tempts with Tibetan yak－wool blankets，ceramic teaware from Jingdezhen and traditional handicrafts and jewellery． 附近是精致的胡同精品店 Slow Lane（MAP Goocle MAP；细活裡，Xì Huó Ľ̌；史家胡同 13 号），这里以西藏牦牛毛毯、景德镇陶瓷茶具以及传统手工艺品和珠宝吸引着游客
If you＇ve started to get the feeling that the emperor spent a lot of time running around from temple to altar to perform sacrificial rituals，well．．．you＇re right！In a nutshell，maintaining cosmic order was the emperor＇s job description．When natural disasters struck and society was plunged into chaos，it was generally believed that the emperor was slacking off on the job．This concept of unifying the cosmos and humankind can be seen in the Chinese character for king：王（wáng）．As Confucius once said：‘The one who connects the three［horizontal lines］is the king＇（一贯三为王）．Here，the three horizontal lines（ bar(" ）represent heaven，humanity and earth．")\overline{\text { ）represent heaven，humanity and earth．}} 如果你开始觉得皇帝花了很多时间在寺庙和祭坛之间跑来跑去进行祭祀仪式，那么……你说对了！简而言之，维护宇宙秩序是皇帝的职责。当自然灾害发生，社会陷入混乱时，人们普遍认为皇帝在职责上懈怠了。这种统一宇宙和人类的概念可以在汉字“王”（wáng）中看到。正如孔子曾经说过的：“一贯三为王”。在这里，三条水平线（ bar(" ）represent heaven，humanity and earth．")\overline{\text { ）represent heaven，humanity and earth．}}
observatory（古观象台，Gǔ Guānxiàngtái；cnr Jianguomennei Dajie \＆East 2nd Ring Rd，二环东路建国门桥）since 1442．Crowning the 18m－high brick tower is an array of arcane astronomical instruments，mounted on carved stone plinths and embellished with bronze dragons．These include the deliciously named＇Altazimuth quadrant＇，which calculates the zenith distance of stars，one of six grand contraptions designed by Ferdinand Verbiest，a 17th－century Jesuit missionary from Belgium． 古观象台（Gǔ Guānxiàngtái；位于建国门内大街与东二环路交汇处）自 1442 年起屹立于此。18 米高的砖塔顶端陈列着一系列神秘的天文仪器，它们安放在雕刻的石基座上，并以青铜龙装饰。其中包括名为“地平经纬仪”的仪器，用于计算恒星的天顶距，这是由 17 世纪比利时耶稣会传教士南怀仁（Ferdinand Verbiest）设计的六件宏伟装置之一
The observatory dates back much further to the Yuan dynasty，when it lay north of the present site．Kublai Khan，like subsequent Ming and Qing emperors，relied heavily on astronomers to plan military endeavours and fine tune the almanac．The Yuan also produced several celebrated Chinese astronomers，including Guo Shoujing，who calculated a year precisely to 365.2425 days． 这座天文台的历史可以追溯到更早的元朝，当时它位于现址的北面。忽必烈汗与后来的明清皇帝一样，非常依赖天文学家来规划军事行动和精确调整历法。元朝还涌现了几位著名的中国天文学家，其中包括郭守敬，他精确计算出一年的长度为 365.2425 天。
At ground level are exhibits on the Chinese calendar，ancient star charts and the Jesuits． 在地面层展出了中国历法、古代星图以及耶稣会士的展品
It＇s closed Mondays． 星期一闭馆
THE JESUITS IN CHINA
The Jesuits were foundational figures in the exchange of knowledge and culture between Europe and China，creating some of the earliest bilingual dictionaries，atlases and cornerstone translations．Matteo Ricci（1552－1610），who came to China in 1583，eventually became an adviser to the Wanli Emperor＇s court and was the first European to enter the Forbidden City．During the Qing dynasty，the Manchu emperors made use of the Jesuits＇knowledge of astronomy，map－ making and science in order to help legitimise their reign through the spread of more accurate imperial almanacs and predictictions of astronomical events like eclipses． 耶稣会士是欧洲与中国之间知识和文化交流的奠基者，他们编纂了最早的双语词典、地图集和基石翻译作品。利玛窦（1552-1610）于 1583 年来到中国，最终成为万历皇帝宫廷的顾问，并成为第一位进入紫禁城的欧洲人。在清朝时期，满族皇帝利用耶稣会士在天文学、地图绘制和科学方面的知识，通过传播更准确的皇家历书和预测日食等天文事件来帮助巩固他们的统治
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Lost in a tumbledown hutong neighbourhood，Zhihua Temple（智化寺， Zhìhuà Sì； 5 Lumicang Hutong，禄米仓胡同 5 号）is one of Beijing＇s best－ preserved Ming dynasty structures．It was built in 1444 to honour a corrupt and powerful eunuch，Wang Zhen，who held tremendous sway over the guileless Emperor Zhengtong． 迷失在一片破旧的胡同区，智化寺（Zhihua Temple；禄米仓胡同 5 号）是北京保存最完好的明代建筑之一。它建于 1444 年，是为了纪念一位腐败而有权势的太监王振，他对天真的正统皇帝有着巨大的影响力
Remarkable treasures within include the Ten Thousand Buddhas Hall with floor－to－ceiling wall niches filled with miniature Buddhist effigies．Walk here from the Chaoyangmen subway stop． 内部珍藏着非凡的宝藏，包括万佛殿，殿内从地板到天花板的壁龛中布满了微型佛像。从朝阳门地铁站步行至此
It＇s closed Mondays． 星期一关闭
Exquisite Collection of Ancient Bronzes 古代青铜器精品集
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The Poly Art Museum（保利艺术博物馆，Bǎolì Yìshù Bówùguǎn； 14 Dongzhimen Nandajie，东直门南大街14号保利大厦9层）is a thrilling discovery，its intimate collection of treasures hidden halfway up an office building．China＇s state－owned Poly Group has funnelled a fraction of its wealth into buying up Chinese antiquities from auctions overseas，displayed here on artfully lit plinths．There are ancient bronzes from the Shang and Zhou dynasties，vividly detailed Buddha statuary and four of the 12 bronze zodiac heads plundered during the 1860 sacking of the Old Summer Palace． 保利艺术博物馆（The Poly Art Museum，Bǎolì Yìshù Bówùguǎn；东直门南大街 14 号保利大厦 9 层）是一个令人兴奋的发现，其珍贵的藏品隐藏在一座办公楼的中间楼层。中国国有保利集团将其财富的一部分用于从海外拍卖中收购中国古董，这些古董在精心照明的基座上展出。馆内藏有商周时期的古代青铜器、栩栩如生的佛像雕塑，以及圆明园 1860 年被劫掠的十二生肖青铜头像中的四尊
To get here，ride the lift to the 9th floor．It＇s closed Sundays． 要到达这里，请乘坐电梯到 9 楼。它周日关闭
Some of the best birds in town，with a prize perch overlooking the Forbidden City＇s moat．Dinner queues can be up to two hours． 11 Nanchizi Dajie，南池子大街11号 镇上最好的鸟类观赏地之一，拥有俯瞰紫禁城护城河的绝佳位置。晚餐排队时间可能长达两小时。11 Nanchizi Dajie，南池子大街 11 号
Sijì Mínfú 四季民福 ¥¥¥ ¥
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Slightly less glamorous location but the same succulent duck，and still within striking distance of the Forbidden City． 32 Dengshikou Xijie，灯市口西街32号 位置稍逊但烤鸭同样美味，且距离故宫仅咫尺之遥。32 Dengshikou Xijie，灯市口西街 32 号
Taste of Dadong（Rhapsody）小大董 ¥¥¥ ¥ 大董烤鸭（狂想曲）小大董 ¥¥¥ ¥
see MAP GOogle map 查看地图 GOogle map
Start with the Instagrammable appetisers at this busy branch of maestro Dong Zhenxiang＇s modern restaurant．6th fl，apm mall， 138 Wangfujing Dajie，王府井大街138号apm6层 从这家现代餐厅的 Instagrammable 开胃菜开始，这是大厨董振祥的繁忙分店。王府井大街 138 号 apm6 层
Duck de Chine 1949 全鸭季 ¥¥¥¥ ¥ ¥
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Beijing＇s most refined destination for duck．Perfectly bronzed birds are announced by chiming a gong． 98 Jinbao Jie，金宝街98号 北京最精致的烤鸭目的地。完美烤制的鸭子由敲锣宣布。98 Jinbao Jie，金宝街 98 号
Dumplings 饺子
Xiàn Lǎo Mǎn 馅老满 ¥¥ 现 馅老满 ¥¥
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A dozen varieties of delicious dumplings，including vegetarian．There are loads of other great local eats on this block，too． 316 Dongsi Beidajie，东四北大街316号 十几种美味的饺子，包括素食。这条街上还有许多其他很棒的本土美食。316 Dongsi Beidajie, 东四北大街 316 号
Din Tai Fung 鼎泰丰 quad¥¥\quad \mathbf{¥} \mathbf{¥}
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Line up for lovingly wrapped xiǎolóngbāo（Shanghai－style soup dumplings）from Taiwan＇s world－famous chain．6th fl，apm shopping mall， 138 Wangfujing Dajie，王府井大街138号apm6层 排队等候台湾世界著名连锁店精心包装的小笼包（上海式汤包）。apm 购物中心 6 层，王府井大街 138 号
This old－school canteen is a marvellous，messy microcosm of Beijing at its most boisterous．It＇s really hard to find－ask for directions． 43 Cuihua Hutong，off Wusi Dajie，五四大街翠花胡同43号 这家老式食堂是北京最热闹、最混乱的缩影。它真的很难找——请询问方向。五四大街翠花胡同 43 号
Pang Mei Noodles 胖妹面庄 quad\quad ¥ 胖妹面庄 quad\quad ¥
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＇Chubby little sister＇s＇Chongqing noodle shop is spicy，stylish and packed tight．Shares a renovated hutong space with Jing－A “胖妹面庄”的重庆小面麻辣时尚，店内座无虚席。它与京 A 共享一个翻新的胡同空间
Longfusi and Susu．Bldg A， 38 Qianliang Hutong，钱粮胡同38号A铺 隆福寺和簋街．A 座，38 号钱粮胡同，钱粮胡同 38 号 A 铺
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Mount your culinary camel and traverse the Silk Road to Uyghur－ style grilled lamb，baked flatbreads and pulled noodles． 16 Dongsi Liutiao Hutong，东四六条胡同16号 骑上你的美食骆驼，沿着丝绸之路探索维吾尔风味的烤羊肉、烤馕和拉面。16 Dongsi Liutiao Hutong，东四六条胡同 16 号
Gourmet Lane 美食界 ¥~ ¥ ~ 美食界 Gourmet Lane ¥~ ¥ ~
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Ultra－convenient food court at the Wangfujing subway stop． 王府井地铁站超便利的美食广场
Noodles，hotpot and capital cuisine．One stop from Tiananmen 面条、火锅和首都美食。从天安门一步之遥
Square．Basement，Oriental Plaza，东方广场，王府井地铁站
Midrange 中档
Chuān Bàn 川办 ¥¥¥ ¥ 川办 ¥¥¥ ¥
Originally for visiting cadres，this restaurant attached to the Sichuan provincial government office serves an ency－clopaedic spice－fest of delicacies．Gongyuan Xijie Toutiao，off Jianguo－mennei Dajie，建国门内大街贡院西街头条 5 号 最初为接待干部而设，这家隶属于四川省政府办事处的餐厅提供了一场百科全书式的香料盛宴。贡院西街头条 5 号，位于建国门内大街旁
Grandma＇s 外婆家 quad¥¥\quad ¥ ¥ 外婆家 quad¥¥\quad ¥ ¥
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The delicious Hangzhou－style dishes at this popular chain restaurant are astonishing value．6th fl，apm mall， 138 Wangfujing Dajie，王府井大街138号 apm6楼 这家热门连锁餐厅的杭州风味菜肴物超所值。王府井大街 138 号 apm6 楼
Susu 苏苏 quad¥¥\quad ¥ ¥ 苏苏 苏苏 quad¥¥\quad ¥ ¥
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Dine on Vietnamese fare such as fresh spring rolls and phở（beef noodle soup）at this much－loved modern hutong eatery．Cocktails recommended． 38 Qianliang Hutong，钱粮胡同38号 在这家备受喜爱的现代胡同餐厅，品尝越南美食，如新鲜春卷和越南河粉（phở）。推荐鸡尾酒。地址：38 Qianliang Hutong，钱粮胡同 38 号
Gastronomic 美食
TRB Hutong quad¥¥¥\quad ¥ ¥ ¥
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TRB（Temple Restaurant Beijing）serves modern European cuisine， but the real delight is the setting：the exquisite 250－year－old Temple of Wisdom． 23 Shatan Beijie，off Wusi Dajie，五四大街沙滩北街23号 TRB（Temple Restaurant Beijing）提供现代欧洲美食，但真正的亮点在于其环境：拥有 250 年历史的精美智珠寺。五四大街沙滩北街 23 号
Hong Kong chef Waikit Yeung sources only the finest ingredients for his lauded contemporary Cantonese dishes．PuXuan Hotel， 1 Wang－ fujing Dajie，王府井街1号璞瑄酒店 香港厨师 Waikit Yeung 为其备受赞誉的现代粤菜精选最优质的食材。璞瑄酒店，1 号王府井大街，王府井街 1 号璞瑄酒店
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Deconstructed dishes are based around a single ingredient at this clever European bistro．The slow－cooked short ribs are a sensation． PuXuan Hotel， 1 Wangfujing Dajie，王府井街1号璞瑄酒店 这家巧妙的欧洲小酒馆以单一食材为基础解构菜肴。慢炖的牛小排令人惊艳。璞瑄酒店，王府井大街 1 号
Drinking 喝酒
Bars 酒吧
Jing－A Longfusi 京 A Longfusi
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Knock back Beijing－inspired craft beers at this hip taproom，which shares a modern hutong development with restaurants，shops and an art gallery． 38 Qianliang Hutong，钱粮胡同38号 在这家时尚的酒吧里畅饮北京风味的精酿啤酒，这里与餐厅、商店和艺术画廊共享一个现代胡同开发项目。地址：38 Qianliang Hutong，钱粮胡同 38 号
Slowboat DSK Taproom
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The good ship Slowboat has dropped anchor in central Beijing， excellent news for those in hotel－heavy Wangfujing，who now have a local brewery within stumbling range． 157 Dongsi Nandajie，东四南大街157号 好船慢吧（Slowboat）已在北京中心抛锚，对于酒店云集的王府井地区的人来说是个好消息，他们现在有了一个步行可达的本地酿酒厂。地址：东四南大街 157 号
MO Bar
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Legendary bar Hope and Sesame from Guangzhou，voted one of Asia＇s best in 2019，crafted the molecular－style cocktail list at MO， an uber－glam hangout in the Mandarin Oriental．WF Central， 269 Wangfujing Jie，北京王府井文华东方酒店王府井大街269号王府中环 来自广州的传奇酒吧 Hope and Sesame，曾被评为 2019 年亚洲最佳酒吧之一，为北京王府井文华东方酒店打造了分子风格的鸡尾酒单。北京王府井文华东方酒店，王府井大街 269 号王府中环
The ultimate refuge from the crowds milling about the front of the Forbidden City is this historic teahouse in a corner of Zhongshan Park．Delicious steamed buns and other snacks．Zhongshan Park，中山公园 在中山公园一角的历史茶馆，是避开紫禁城前熙熙攘攘人群的绝佳去处。这里有美味的包子和其他小吃。Zhongshan Park，中山公园
Book Cafe
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Recharge your batteries inside this hidden cafe in the Guardian Art Center，with plenty of illustrated art books to browse． 1 Wangfujing Dajie，嘉德艺术中心，王府井大街1号 在嘉德艺术中心的这家隐秘咖啡馆里充电，这里有许多插画艺术书籍可供浏览。地址：王府井大街 1 号，嘉德艺术中心
Explore 探索
Drum Tower & Dongcheng North 鼓楼与东城北区
Bookended by the magnificent Drum and Bell Towers in the west and Lama Temple in the east, this is Beijing’s buzziest district of historic hutong alleyways, and the best area for strolling and cycling. Casually referred to as ‘Gulou’ (鼓楼; Drum Tower), come here to encounter Beijing on a refreshingly human scale as you stroll through low-rise lanes, past Beijingers playing cards or xiangqi (Chinese chess) and holes-in-the-wall hawking street food. Discreet cocktail bars and trendy cafes slot between grey-brick residences, while a small selection of boutique hotels make it an excellent base. After dark, you’ll find a handful of alleyway spots for a drink and live music. 西有宏伟的鼓楼和钟楼，东有雍和宫，这里是北京最具历史气息的胡同区，也是最适合漫步和骑行的区域。这里被亲切地称为“鼓楼”，漫步在低矮的巷弄中，经过打牌或下象棋的北京人，以及售卖街头小吃的小店，你会以更贴近生活的尺度感受北京。低调的鸡尾酒吧和时尚咖啡馆夹在青砖民居之间，而少数精品酒店使其成为理想的落脚点。夜幕降临后，你会发现一些胡同角落适合小酌和欣赏现场音乐。
Runs east-west along the northern edge of the neighbourhood, with stops at Gulou Dajie (Drum Tower) and Lama Temple. 沿街区北缘东西走向，停靠鼓楼大街（Drum Tower）和喇嘛庙（Lama Temple）。
(S) Subway Line 5 (S) 地铁 5 号线
Runs north-south from the Lama Temple through Beixinqiao (Ghost St) and Zhangzi Zhonglu (restaurants). 从雍和宫向南穿过北新桥（鬼街）和簋街（餐馆）。
(S) Subway Line 8 (S) 地铁 8 号线
Runs north-south and connects Tiananmen East with Nanguluo Xiang, Shichahai and Gulou Dajie (Drum Tower). 南北走向，连接天安门东与南锣鼓巷、什刹海和鼓楼大街。
THE BEST 最佳
TEMPLE Lama Temple TEMPLE 雍和宫HISTORIC SIGHT Drum Tower 历史景点 鼓楼FUN ON TWO WHEELS Hutong Bike Tour 双轮乐趣 胡同自行车之旅CULINARY ADVENTURE Food Tour 美食探险 美食之旅LIVE MUSIC Modernista 现场音乐 Modernista
Once the tallest buildings in Beijing, the scarlet Drum Tower and the brick-and-stone Bell Tower have kept time in the city since 1272, when they stood at the heart of the former Mongol capital of Dadu. In the Ming and Qing, they were northernmost landmarks on the central axis. 曾经是北京最高的建筑，朱红色的鼓楼和砖石结构的钟楼自 1272 年起便在这座城市中计时，当时它们位于元大都的中心。在明清时期，它们是中轴线最北端的地标。
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A drumming troupe stages a brief performance on replica drums every hour on the hour from 10am to 5pm；there＇s no performance at noon．Performances end at 4pm from November through March． 鼓队每天上午 10 点至下午 5 点整点进行短暂的仿制鼓表演；中午 12 点没有表演。11 月至次年 3 月的表演于下午 4 点结束
Drum Tower 鼓楼
Up in the 46m－high three－storey Drum Tower（鼓楼，Gǔlóu；Gulou Dongdajie，鼓楼东大街）， 25 massive drums were struck 108 times（ 18 fast beats， 18 slow beats， 18 steady beats，then repeat）to announce the closing of the city gates and the beginning of curfew at nightfall．Thereafter，every two hours（a period known as a geng）the drums were struck and the bell was rung to coordinate patrols of the city＇s nightwatch，who had their own sets of clappers and gongs．This continued until daybreak，when the city gates were again opened．When Europeans first arrived in Beijing in the 18th century， one of their chief complaints was，rather humorously，being unable to get a good night＇s sleep． 在 46 米高的三层鼓楼（鼓楼，Gǔlóu；Gulou Dongdajie，鼓楼东大街）上，25 面大鼓被敲击 108 次（18 次快击，18 次慢击，18 次稳击，然后重复），以宣告城门关闭和夜间宵禁的开始。此后，每两小时（称为一更），鼓声和钟声协调城市巡夜人的巡逻，他们有自己的梆子和锣。这一过程持续到天亮，城门再次开启。当 18 世纪欧洲人首次抵达北京时，他们的一大抱怨，颇具幽默感，是晚上无法睡个好觉
Accessed by a steep stairway，the tower＇s 2 nd floor displays the Night Watchman＇s Drum，the sole survivor of the original 25 drums．The original drummers would have known exactly when to strike their instruments thanks to a water clock（clepsydra），a copy of which is on display in the tower．On the 1 st floor is a good exhibition on traditional timekeeping in China，as well as some excellent recordings of the cries of itinerant peddlers advertising their wares over a century ago． 通过一段陡峭的楼梯进入，鼓楼的二楼展示着“夜巡鼓”，这是原有 25 面鼓中唯一幸存的一面。古代的鼓手们通过水钟（漏壶）精确掌握击鼓时间，楼内展出的水钟复制品便是明证。一楼则设有关于中国传统计时法的精彩展览，还有一些极好的录音，记录了一个多世纪前流动小贩叫卖商品的吆喝声
The current building dates to 1894 ． 当前的建筑可以追溯到 1894 年
Bell Tower 钟楼
（MAP GOOclE MAP）The restrained，grey－stone edifice of the Bell Tower（钟楼，Zhōnglóu）stands just north of the Drum Tower；climb the steep steps to get a look at the giant 60 －ton copper bell．The bell was rung after the drums were struck，also for a count of 108 times．In 1924，after Puyi（the＇Last Emperor＇）had been evicted from the Forbidden City，the timekeeping functions of the towers ceased． （MAP GOOclE MAP）钟楼（Zhōnglóu）这座庄重的灰色石质建筑位于鼓楼北侧；爬上陡峭的台阶，可以看到那口重达 60 吨的巨型铜钟。钟声在鼓声敲响后响起，同样也是 108 次。1924 年，溥仪（“末代皇帝”）被逐出紫禁城后，钟楼的报时功能便停止了
In between the two towers is a small square，a popular destination for spry 在两座塔之间是一个小广场，是敏捷人士的热门目的地
elderly Beijingers to chat in the sun，play jianzi（similar to juggling a football， but instead using a weighted shuttlecock）and also perform ribbon dances． 年长的北京人在阳光下聊天，踢毽子（类似于用足球杂耍，但使用的是加重的毽子），还表演彩带舞
Since 1990，the bell is rung once a year on 31 December． 自 1990 年起，每年 12 月 31 日钟声会敲响一次
TAKE A BREAK 休息一下
Right next to the Drum Tower is the fabulous old－school canteen Yáojì Chǎogān Diàn（姚记炒肝店），where you can sample local comfort foods like millet porridge，offal stew and steamed buns． 紧邻鼓楼的是极具老派风味的姚记炒肝店（Yáojì Chǎogān Diàn），在这里你可以品尝到小米粥、炖杂碎和馒头等本地家常美食
TOP EXPERIENCE 顶级体验
Lama Temple
The magnificent Lama Temple extends through a crescendo of evermore divine halls in a cloud of incense smoke and flowing Manchu, Tibetan and Mongolian script. Converted from a princely residence to a lamasery in the 18th century, it’s a profound introduction to Tibetan Buddhist lore. 宏伟的雍和宫在缭绕的香烟和满文、藏文、蒙古文的流动中，穿过一系列越来越神圣的殿堂。这座 18 世纪由王府改建而成的喇嘛庙，是深入了解藏传佛教传说的绝佳之地。
Pick up a free bundle of incense just before passing through the first gate．To say a prayer，light three sticks，bow three times，then add your lit incense to the burner．Non－Buddhists are welcome to participate． 在第一道门前领取一束免费的香。祈祷时，点燃三支香，鞠躬三次，然后将点燃的香插入香炉。非佛教徒也欢迎参与
History 历史
The Lama Temple（雍和宫，Yōnghé Gōng； 12 Yonghegong Dajie，北新桥雍和宫大街 12 号）started life as a royal residence，built in 1694 for the fourth son of the Kangxi Emperor．In 1744，it was converted into a lamasery for acolytes of Tibetan Buddhism．In 1792，the Qianlong Emperor，having quelled a Nepalese invasion in Tibet，instituted new rules in order to help the Manchus weaken the most powerful clans in Tibet and Mongolia． 雍和宫（Yōnghé Gōng；雍和宫大街 12 号，北新桥）最初是作为皇家住所而建，于 1694 年为康熙帝的第四子所建。1744 年，它被改建为藏传佛教的寺院。1792 年，乾隆帝在平定尼泊尔对西藏的入侵后，制定了新规则，以帮助满族人削弱西藏和蒙古最强大的家族
Known as the Golden Urn system，it involved two ceremonial vessels．One was kept at Lhasa＇s Jokhang Temple and used to determine the reincarnations of the Dalai and Panchen Lamas，and the other was kept at the Lama Temple in Beijing and used to determine the reincarnation of the Mongolian Lama． 被称为金瓶掣签制度，它涉及两个仪式用的容器。一个保存在拉萨的大昭寺，用于确定达赖喇嘛和班禅喇嘛的转世，另一个保存在北京的雍和宫，用于确定蒙古喇嘛的转世
The First Halls 第一大殿
After walking the length of the Imperial Way，you＇ll come to the first of the temple＇s six main halls．This is the Yonghe Gate，where a plaque is inscribed with the characters 心明妙现：＇If the heart is bright，the wonderful will appear＇．The next hall，the Yonghe Hall，contains a trinity of gilded effigies representing the past，present and future Buddhas．This is followed by the Yongyou Hall，which originally served as the prince＇s bed chamber． 沿着御道走完，你将来到寺庙六大主殿的第一座——雍和门。这里有一块匾额，上书“心明妙现”四个字，意为“心若明，妙自现”。下一座殿是雍和殿，内有三尊镀金佛像，分别代表过去、现在和未来的佛陀。紧接着是永佑殿，这里曾是王子的寝宫
Hall of the Wheel of the Law 法轮殿
A 6 m －tall bronze statue of Tsongkhapa（1357－1419），founder of the Gelugpa （Yellow Hat）sect，welcomes you into the dimly lit，atmospheric Hall of the Wheel of the Law．A throne seated the Dalai Lamas when they lectured here； kneeling cushions attest to the hall＇s continued tutelary role． 一尊 6 米高的宗喀巴（1357－1419）青铜雕像，他是格鲁派（黄帽派）的创始人，欢迎您进入光线昏暗、氛围浓厚的法轮殿。达赖喇嘛曾在此讲经的宝座；跪垫则证明了该殿持续的教导作用
Wanfu Pavilion 万福阁
The grand finale is the Wanfu Pavilion, which reveals an awe-inspiring, 18 m -tall statue of the Maitreya Buddha in its Tibetan form, clothed in yellow satin and reputedly carved from a single trunk of Tibetan sandalwood. It was a gift from the seventh Dalai Lama to the Qianlong Emperor. 压轴之作是万福阁，里面展示着一尊令人敬畏的 18 米高的弥勒佛像，呈藏式造型，身着黄色绸缎，据称是由一整根西藏檀香木雕刻而成。这是第七世达赖喇嘛赠送给乾隆皇帝的礼物。
It’s well worth perusing the collection of Tibetan ritual objects, robes and mandalas within the side halls here, particularly Banchan Lou, formerly the chambers of the sixth Panchen Lama, who visited Beijing to celebrate the emperor’s birthday in 1780 . 这里侧殿内收藏的西藏仪式用品、僧袍和曼荼罗非常值得仔细观赏，特别是班禅楼，这里是第六世班禅喇嘛的房间，他于 1780 年访问北京庆祝皇帝的生日。
TAKE A BREAK 休息一下
Lively Wudaoying Hutong has plenty of drinking and dining options, including coffee and cake at Metal Hands. The capital’s finest vegetarian fare, meanwhile, is at King’s Joy. 热闹的五道营胡同有许多餐饮选择，包括 Metal Hands 的咖啡和蛋糕。同时，首都最好的素食美食在 King’s Joy。
WALKING TOUR 步行游览
Walk the Drum Tower Hutong 漫步鼓楼胡同
A more peaceful alternative to the Nanluogu Xiang crowds, this walk meanders through the backstreets of the Drum Tower neigh-bourhood. During the Qing dynasty this was a particularly wealthy area, as evidenced by the many fine mansions that once largely belonged to the Manchu families of the Bordered Yellow Banner. 与南锣鼓巷的人潮相比，这条路线更为宁静，蜿蜒穿过鼓楼社区的后街。在清朝时期，这里是一个特别富有的区域，众多精美的宅邸便是明证，这些宅邸大多曾属于镶黄旗的满族家族。
Begin at the graceful Yuhe Nunnery（玉河庵，Yùhé Ān； 49 Dongbuya Qiao Hutong，东不压桥胡同49号），whose three compact halls were originally dedicated in 1808．It＇s now home to Voyage Coffee（10am to 6 pm ），with lovely seating both inside the compound and along the canal．It＇s west from the Nanluogu Xiang subway stop，along Di＇anmen Dongdajie． 从优雅的玉河庵（Yùhé Ān；东不压桥胡同 49 号）开始，这座紧凑的三厅建筑最初于 1808 年落成。如今，这里是 Voyage Coffee（上午 10 点至下午 6 点）的所在地，院内和运河沿岸都有宜人的座位。它位于南锣鼓巷地铁站以西，沿着地安门东大街
2 Willow－Shaded Canal 2 柳荫运河
Follow the pleasant canal－side walkway north．This waterway，alternately known as the Jade or Imperial River，was part of the vast waterworks project begun during the Yuan dynasty，which brought spring water from the Western Hills to the city and facilitated shipping to and from the Grand Canal to the east．This particular branch supplied water to the Forbidden City＇s moat． 沿着宜人的运河边步道向北走。这条水道，又称玉河或御河，是元代开始的大型水利工程的一部分，将西山泉水引入城市，并促进了与东部大运河之间的航运。这条特殊的分支为紫禁城的护城河供水
3 Traditional Painting Studio 3 传统绘画工作室
Turn right at the archway marking Yu＇er Hutong（雨儿胡同）．Halfway down this alley is the former home and studio of painter Qi Baishi（1864－1957）， where you can enter for a glimpse of a traditional courtyard home．There＇s a great gift shop． 在标记为雨儿胡同的拱门处右转。沿着这条小巷走到一半，就是画家齐白石（1864-1957）的故居和工作室，你可以进去参观传统的四合院。那里还有一家很棒的礼品店
4 Home of the Last Empress 4 末代皇后的故居
Retrace your steps to the canal and continue to the next hutong，Mao＇er（帽儿胡同），where，at Nos 35 and 37，you＇ll find the childhood home of Gobulo Wanrong．A Manchu noblewoman，Wanrong married China＇s last emperor， Puyi，in 1922 and was unwillingly instated as empress of Manchukuo under the Japanese． 沿着原路返回运河，继续前往下一个胡同——帽儿胡同。在 35 号和 37 号，你会发现郭布罗·婉容的童年故居。婉容是一位满族贵族女子，于 1922 年嫁给中国末代皇帝溥仪，并在日本统治下不情愿地成为满洲国的皇后
5 Hidden Brewery
Return to Doujiao Hutong（豆角胡同）and turn right，then turn right again as it winds past the tree－shaded courtyard of Great Leap Brewing \＃6，Beijing＇s first craft－beer bar． 返回豆角胡同并右转，然后再次右转，沿着绿树成荫的 Great Leap Brewing #6 的庭院蜿蜒前行，这是北京第一家精酿啤酒吧
6 Backstreet Noodles
Turn left onto Nanxiawazi Hutong（南下洼子胡同）and continue north， passing a rare sight in Beijing：a covered market，selling fresh noodles and vegetables．Across the intersection is the king of neighbourhood noodle shops： 69 Fangzhuanchang Zhajiangmian（方砖厂69号炸酱面），which inspired a modern chain that has sprung up across the capital．Continue west down the tree－shaded Fangzhuanchang（Brick－maker＇s）Hutong until you 左转进入南下洼子胡同，继续向北走，经过北京一处罕见的景象：一个售卖新鲜面条和蔬菜的室内市场。穿过十字路口，便是社区面馆中的佼佼者：方砖厂 69 号炸酱面，这家店激发了一家现代连锁店的诞生，如今已在首都遍地开花。继续向西，沿着绿树成荫的方砖厂胡同前行，直到你
reach Di’anmenwai Dajie（地安门外大街）and the Shichahai subway stop． 到达地安门外大街（Di’anmenwai Dajie）和什刹海地铁站（Shichahai subway stop）
EXPERIENCES 体验
Shopping on Nanluogu Xiang 在南锣鼓巷购物
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Beijing＇s most touristy hutong district，Nanluogu Xiang（South Gong and Drum Lane）is a north－south strip of snack stalls，souvenir shops，Chinese tourists dressed as Manchu princesses and more people than you can possibly imagine on a single street－all set，rather unbelievably，to David Byrne＇s The Last Emperor theme song，which is blared on endless repeat．It can be a good time if you want to buy the odd inexpensive gift（eg The Beijing Flirtatious Expressions Map）and duck into the side streets in search of a historic residence or two．That said，if you want an idea of what a traditional hutong neighbourhood once looked like，follow the walking tour instead． 北京最具旅游特色的胡同区——南锣鼓巷（South Gong and Drum Lane）是一条南北走向的小吃摊、纪念品店、装扮成满族公主的中国游客以及你无法想象一条街上会有那么多人的地方——这一切的背景音乐，难以置信地，是 David Byrne 的《末代皇帝》主题曲，无限循环播放。如果你想买些便宜的小礼物（如《北京调情地图》）并钻进小巷寻找一两处历史故居，这里可能是个不错的选择。不过，如果你想了解传统胡同社区的原貌，还是跟随步行游览路线吧
Traditional Art in Qi Baishi＇s Former Home 齐白石故居的传统艺术
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Qi Baishi（1864－1957）was a traditional Chinese painter who practised at a time when most of his peers were experimenting with European techniques． Born into an impoverished family from Hunan，Qi was often sick as a child and unable to help out with farmwork．He instead apprenticed as a carpenter， but found this equally demanding and then switched to woodcarving．It wasn＇t until age 25 that he began to study painting，calligraphy and seal carving． 齐白石（1864－1957）是一位中国传统画家，他在大多数同行都在尝试欧洲技法时进行创作。齐白石出生于湖南的一个贫困家庭，童年时常生病，无法帮忙干农活。他转而成为木匠学徒，但发现这同样辛苦，于是改行做木雕。直到 25 岁，他才开始学习绘画、书法和篆刻
Qi＇s work is instantly recognisable：his style is simple and playful， capturing the inner spirit of his subjects，usually flowers，fruit，insects and animals．Qi moved to Beijing in 1917 and rooms in this former courtyard residence（齐白石旧居纪念馆，Qí Báishí Jiùjū Jìniànguăn； 13 Yu＇er Hutong，雨儿胡同 13 号）recreate his living quarters and studio．If you like Chinese art，the gift shop here is remarkably good．It has the highest－quality souvenirs in the Nanluogu Xiang area． 齐的作品一眼就能认出来：他的风格简单而俏皮，捕捉了主题的内在精神，通常是花卉、水果、昆虫和动物。齐于 1917 年搬到北京，这座昔日的四合院（齐白石旧居纪念馆，雨儿胡同 13 号）里的房间再现了他的生活区和工作室。如果你喜欢中国艺术，这里的礼品店非常棒，拥有南锣鼓巷地区最高品质的纪念品
Peer into the Guan 窥探关
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Before the arrival of communism，Beijing had hundreds of temples and shrines，a handful of which served as the retirement homes for palace eunuchs．Hong＇en Temple（宏恩观，Hóng＇ēn Guàn； 21 Doufuchi Hutong，豆腐池胡同21号），just north of the Bell Tower，was one such place．Initially established in the 13th century，its gradual decline over the dynasties eventually led to one palace eunuch saving it from ruin in 1873．Liu Duosheng，who was also an ordained Taoist priest，bought as many as 20 local temples during this time． 在共产主义到来之前，北京曾有数百座寺庙和神龛，其中一些成为了宫廷太监的退休居所。位于钟楼北侧的宏恩观（Hong'en Temple；豆腐池胡同 21 号）就是其中之一。宏恩观最初建于 13 世纪，历经朝代更迭逐渐衰败，直到 1873 年，一位宫廷太监将其从废墟中拯救出来。刘多生（Liu Duosheng），同时也是一位受戒的道士，在此期间购买了多达 20 座当地寺庙
Hong＇en Temple reopened in 2023 after extensive renovations and was redubbed the Guan（观）． Hong＇en Temple 在 2023 年经过大规模翻新后重新开放，并更名为 Guan（观）
At the time of writing it was a bit of an oddity：a small bookstore selling the collected works of Mao，Deng and Xi Jinping was front and centre，while China Post had opened a takeaway teashop in a side hall．Nonetheless，it＇s worth peeking your head in on the way to or from the Bell Tower－there＇s an interesting exhibit on the temple＇s history hidden in the back hall． 在撰写本文时，这里有点奇特：一家销售毛泽东、邓小平和习近平著作的小书店位于显眼位置，而中国邮政则在一侧厅开设了外卖茶店。不过，在前往或离开钟楼的路上，值得你探头一望——后厅隐藏着关于寺庙历史的有趣展览
CONFUCIANISM 儒家思想
Confucianism（儒教；Rújiào）is based upon the teachings of Confucius（孔子；Kongzi），a 6th－century－BCE philosopher．The central emphasis is on five basic hierarchical relationships：father－ son，ruler－subject，husband－wife，elder－younger，friend－friend． Confucius believed that if each individual carried out his or her proper role in society（ie a son served his father respectfully，while the father provided for his son），social order would be achieved． 儒教（Rújiào）基于公元前 6 世纪哲学家孔子（Kongzi）的教义。其核心强调五种基本等级关系：父子、君臣、夫妻、长幼、朋友。孔子认为，如果每个人在社会中履行其适当的角色（如儿子恭敬地侍奉父亲，而父亲则为儿子提供支持），社会秩序就会得以实现
Ponder the Wisdom of the Great Sage 思考大圣的智慧
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An incense stick＇s toss away from the Lama Temple，China＇s second－largest Confucius Temple（孔庙，Kǒng Miào； 13 Guozijian Jie，国子监街13号）is a 距离雍和宫仅一炷香之遥的中国第二大孔庙（孔庙，Kǒng Miào；国子监街 13 号）是
haven of scholarly calm and contemplation．Come to wander between the towering stone stelae mounted on the backs of mythical bixi（mythical， tortoise－like dragons）and inscribed with the achievements of scholars past． For centuries，China＇s best students would study the Confucian classics at the connecting Guozijian（国子监，Imperial College）． 学术宁静与沉思的避风港。前来漫步于高耸的石碑之间，这些石碑矗立在神话中的赑屃（神话中类似龟的龙）背上，铭刻着往昔学者的成就。几个世纪以来，中国最优秀的学生们会在相连的国子监（Imperial College）研读儒家经典
Visitors pass through the Confucius Temple first，where the emperor offered sacrifices to Confucius，before circling back through the Guozijian．In between the two is an astounding stone＇forest＇of 190 stelae recording 13 Confucian classics in 630，000 Chinese characters．The Guozijian is considerably more engaging，and features illuminating displays on the imperial examinations．You won＇t be able to miss the Biyong Palace，a twin－ roofed structure topped with a splendid gold knob，where later emperors expounded the Confucian classics to an audience of thousands of kneeling students，professors and court officials． 游客首先会经过孔庙，这里是皇帝祭祀孔子的地方，然后再绕回国子监。两者之间是一片令人惊叹的石碑“林”，共有 190 块石碑，记录了 13 部儒家经典，共计 63 万字。国子监更为引人入胜，展示了关于科举制度的精彩展览。你一定会注意到辟雍宫，这座双顶建筑顶部饰有华丽的金色圆球，后来的皇帝在这里向成千上万跪拜的学生、教授和朝廷官员讲解儒家经典
Built by the grandson of Kublai Khan in 1306，the former college was the supreme academy during the Yuan，Ming and Qing dynasties．Some of Beijing＇s last remaining páilóu（decorative archways）survive on the street outside（Guozijian Jie）． 由忽必烈的孙子于 1306 年建造，这所前学院是元、明、清三代的最高学府。北京最后几座幸存的牌楼（装饰性拱门）就位于外面的街道上（国子监街）
The temple is closed Mondays． 寺庙周一关闭
Overseas Chinese Communities Around the World museum 世界各地的海外华人社区博物馆
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The Overseas Chinese History Museum（中国华侨历史博物馆，Zhōngguó Huáqiáo Lìshy̌ Bówùguǎn；Beixinqiao Santiao Dong Kou，北新桥三条东口） charts the history of Chinese emigration from the era of the Silk Road to the present day，with full English captions throughout． 中国华侨历史博物馆（Zhōngguó Huáqiáo Lìshy̌ Bówùguǎn；Beixinqiao Santiao Dong Kou，北新桥三条东口）展示了从丝绸之路时代至今的中国移民历史，全程配有英文说明
Diorama－rich exhibits look at all sides of the Chinese diaspora，from the indentured labourers sent to European colonies（particularly in the Caribbean） to gold－rush adventurers in America and Australia to the hugely influential Chinese communities in Southeast Asia． 丰富的立体模型展览展示了中国移民的各个方面，从被送往欧洲殖民地（特别是加勒比地区）的契约劳工，到美国和澳大利亚的淘金冒险者，再到在东南亚极具影响力的华人社区
Although it＇s a bit off the beaten path，this is one of the best curated museums in Beijing． 虽然这里有点偏僻，但它是北京最好的策展博物馆之一
It＇s closed on Mondays． 周一闭馆
Eat Your Way Through Ghost St 吃遍簋街
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Beijing＇s most raucous restaurant strip is Ghost St（篮街，Gui Jie； Dongzhimennei Dajie，东直门内大街）．Jammed with over 100 restaurants， it＇s the perfect place to join Beijingers as they let off steam． 北京最喧闹的美食街是簋街（Ghost St；东直门内大街）。这里挤满了 100 多家餐馆，是加入北京人释放压力的绝佳去处
Hú Dà ，with five restaurants along the 1.5 km strip，is wildly popular for its Sichuan－style crayfish，with huge queues every evening．For something less spicy，Fu De Yu Hotpot is a tiny eatery specialising in Beijing－style shuan yangrou（mutton hotpot）．Grill your own lamb skewers and other kebabs at Hěnjiǔ Yǐqián Yángròu Chuàn． 胡大，在 1.5 公里的街道上有五家餐厅，以其四川风格的小龙虾而大受欢迎，每晚都排着长队。如果想吃不那么辣的，福得鱼火锅是一家专门做北京涮羊肉的小餐馆。很久以前羊肉串则可以自己烤羊肉串和其他烤肉。
The original name Ghost St could derive from the ghostly lanterns illuminating a night market here during the Qing dynasty，or because corpses were transported out of the city via the Dongzhimen city gate．In the 1980s， the authorities changed the character from 鬼 to 篮，which refers to a type of ancient bronze food vessel． 原名“鬼街”可能源于清朝时期这里夜市的幽灵般的灯笼，或者是因为尸体通过东直门城门运出城外。20 世纪 80 年代，当局将“鬼”字改为“簋”，指的是一种古代青铜食器
Make New Friends on a Food Tour 在美食之旅中结交新朋友
MAP
There＇s no way around it：the best way to appreciate Chinese cuisine is with a group meal．For the best introduction to local food culture，join a belt－busting tour of several hutong eateries．Dinner tours usually take in four restaurants， all with multiple dishes and drinks，so come with an appetite．Walking is an essential part of these tours－that＇s good，as it gives you time to digest between courses． 这是无法回避的：欣赏中国美食的最佳方式是与一群人共餐。要深入了解当地饮食文化，最好的方法是参加一次胡同美食之旅。晚餐之旅通常会光顾四家餐厅，每家都有多道菜肴和饮品，所以请带着好胃口前来。步行是这些旅行的重要组成部分——这很好，因为它让你有时间在每道菜之间消化
A popular alternative to the dinner tour is the breakfast tour－especially if you＇re jet－lagged and up and ready to go in the early hours．Explore the backstreets in search of popular breakfast treats，from jiānbing（煎饼； Chinese crepes）to sour dòuzhī（豆汁；fermented mung－bean milk）and jiāoquānj i a ̄ o q u a ̄ n（焦圈；fried dough rings）． 晚餐之旅的热门替代选择是早餐之旅——尤其是当你因时差而早起并准备出发时。探索小巷，寻找受欢迎的早餐美食，从煎饼（jiānbing；中式薄饼）到酸豆汁（dòuzhī；发酵的绿豆奶）和焦圈（ jiāoquānj i a ̄ o q u a ̄ n ；炸面圈）
Good tour operators include Lost Plate（lostplate．com），Untour Food 好的旅游运营商包括 Lost Plate（lostplate.com）和 Untour Food
Tours（untourfoodtours．com）and The Hutong（MAP Googlemap） （thehutong．com）． Tours（untourfoodtours.com）和 The Hutong（MAP Googlemap）（thehutong.com）
Cycle the Alleyways 骑行胡同
CYCLING 骑行
Beijing is one of the world＇s great cycling cities：it＇s flat as a chessboard， bike lanes are wide and ubiquitous，and shared bikes are cheap and plentiful． It＇s true that two－wheeled traffic can be a bit．．．chaotic，but as long as you have good spatial awareness and are vigilant，you＇ll have loads of fun． 北京是世界上骑行体验极佳的城市之一：它平坦如棋盘，自行车道宽阔且无处不在，共享单车既便宜又充足。确实，两轮交通有时会有些……混乱，但只要你有良好的空间意识并保持警惕，你就会享受到无尽的乐趣
One good way to break into Beijing cycling is to take a hutong tour，where traffic moves at a slower speed．Start at the Drum Tower and give yourself 30 to 60 minutes to explore the winding lanes as you slowly make your way 2 km northeast to the Confucius Temple and Lama Temple．Trying to pick your way across the city backstreets can be a great adventure． 在北京开启骑行之旅的一个好方法是参加胡同游，那里的交通速度较慢。从鼓楼出发，给自己 30 到 60 分钟的时间探索蜿蜒的巷子，慢慢向东北方向骑行 2 公里到达孔庙和雍和宫。尝试穿越城市的小巷可以是一次很棒的冒险
There are currently three companies running bike shares in Beijing．We found that the most foreigner－friendly was the blue－coloured Hello Bike（哈啰单车；Hāluō Dānchē）；download the app and link it to Alipay．You then use Alipay to scan a bike＇s QR code．Before your first ride，you will need to upload your passport photo and register with a Chinese phone number－ without either，you will be unable to use the bike－share scheme． 目前北京有三家公司运营共享单车。我们发现对外国人最友好的是蓝色的哈啰单车（Hello Bike）；下载应用程序并将其与支付宝关联。然后使用支付宝扫描单车的二维码。在首次骑行前，您需要上传护照照片并使用中国手机号码注册——没有这些，您将无法使用共享单车服务
Prices are remarkably cheap：expect to pay ¥1.5¥ 1.5 per 30 minutes，or ¥7¥ 7 for a week of unlimited cycling．There is a machine－assisted translation feature within the app． 价格非常便宜：预计每 30 分钟支付 ¥1.5¥ 1.5 ，或支付 ¥7¥ 7 获得一周无限次骑行。应用程序内有一个机器辅助翻译功能
When returning the bike，make sure you are in a designated parking zone． If the bike doesn＇t cooperate，try manually locking it 归还自行车时，请确保您位于指定的停车区域。如果自行车无法正常操作，请尝试手动锁车
Local Life at Ditan Park 地坛公园的当地生活
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Beijing is surrounded by four heavenly altars，and the Altar of the Earth， situated in the north within Ditan Park（地坛公园，Ditán Gōngyuán； 北京被四座天坛环绕，地坛位于北面的地坛公园（Ditán Gōngyuán）内
Hepingli Xijie，和平里西街），is one of them．A square open－air platform，the altar was where imperial rites were performed at summer solstice．Although not meriting a special trip，the park is a good place to see Beijingers at play， 和平里西街（Hepingli Xijie）是其中之一。一个方形的露天平台，祭坛曾是夏至时举行皇家仪式的地方。虽然不值得专门前往，但这个公园是观察北京人休闲娱乐的好地方
especially at the exercise area in the northeast corner. 尤其是在东北角的锻炼区。
JIĀNBǏNG
The much-loved jiānbing is adored in Beijing, although it originates in neighbouring Tianjin. A batter of wheat flour and millet is cooked thin on a griddle, an egg (or two) cracked on top, then chilli sauce and furu (fermented bean curd) are lathered on with a brush, before adding coriander and onion and the all-important crunchy fried dough square. It’s then folded into a sumptuous, self-contained breakfast parcel. Watching it being made is almost as fun as eating it. You can find jiānbing all over town, sold from roving bicycle kitchens or holes-in-the-wall. 备受喜爱的煎饼在北京广受欢迎，尽管它起源于邻近的天津。小麦粉和小米的糊糊在平底锅上摊薄，打上一个（或两个）鸡蛋，然后用刷子涂上辣椒酱和腐乳，再加入香菜和洋葱，以及至关重要的脆炸面块。然后将其折叠成一个丰盛、独立的早餐包。观看它的制作过程几乎和品尝它一样有趣。你可以在全城各处找到煎饼，无论是流动的自行车厨房还是街边小店都有售。
Order at the counter then join the queue for Beijing＇s famous chǎogān，a glutinous stew of pig＇s liver and intestines．Opt for steamed buns if you don＇t have the guts． 311 Gulou Dongdajie，鼓楼东大街311号 在柜台点餐后，加入队伍品尝北京著名的炒肝，这是一种由猪肝和猪肠制成的浓稠炖菜。如果你没有胆量尝试，可以选择蒸包子。311 Gulou Dongdajie，鼓楼东大街 311 号
Decisions are easy at this timeworn shop：the signature zhajiang noodles（ ¥25¥ 25 ）is the only thing on the menu．Don＇t skip the pickled garlic．Fangzhuanchang Hutong，方砖厂胡同 在这家历史悠久的店里，做决定很容易：菜单上唯一的选择就是招牌炸酱面（ ¥25¥ 25 ）。别忘了尝试腌蒜。方砖厂胡同，Fangzhuanchang Hutong
Yĩnsān Dòuzhī 尹三豆汁 ¥ 尹三豆汁 ¥
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For a local breakfast，pop into this local chain for dòuzhī（fermented mung－bean milk）and fried dough rings．Branches throughout Beijing． 295 Andingmennei Dajie，安定门内大街295号 想吃地道的早餐，可以来这家本地连锁店，品尝豆汁（发酵的绿豆浆）和炸圈。北京有多家分店。地址：安定门内大街 295 号
Budget 预算
Zhang Mama 张妈妈川味馆 ¥\boldsymbol{¥} 张妈妈川味馆 ¥\boldsymbol{¥}
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An absurdly affordable spice－fest，humble Zhang Mama is run by a multi－generational Sichuanese family．Expect to queue． 76 Jiaodaokou Nandajie，交道口南大街76号 一家价格实惠到离谱的川味餐厅，朴实的张妈妈餐厅由一家多代同堂的四川家庭经营。请做好排队的准备。交道口南大街 76 号
Fu De Yu Hotpot 孚德裕 ¥ 孚德裕火锅 ¥
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Traditional Beijing hotpot（the non－spicy variety）in coal－fired cauldrons．Cook the ingredients in the broth then dip them in sesame sauce． 264 Dongzhimennei Dajie，东直门内大街264号 传统北京火锅（非辣味）在煤火大锅中烹制。将食材在汤底中煮熟后蘸芝麻酱食用。264 Dongzhimennei Dajie，东直门内大街 264 号
Xiàn Lǎo Mǎn 馅老满 ¥¥ 现 馅老满 ¥¥
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The locals＇pick for delicious dumplings．Veggie options，too． 252 Andingmennei Dajie，安定门内大街252号 当地人推荐的美味饺子店。也有素食选择。252 Andingmennei Dajie，安定门内大街 252 号
Midrange 中档
Little Yunnan 小云南 ¥¥¥ ¥ 小云南 Little Yunnan ¥¥¥ ¥
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Plays to the crowd with light aromatic dishes from China＇s southwest，like fried river fish and Dai－style mint salads． 89 Di＇anmen Dongdajie，地安门东大街89号 迎合大众口味，提供中国西南地区的清淡芳香菜肴，如炸河鱼和傣式薄荷沙拉。89 Di＇anmen Dongdajie，地安门东大街 89 号
Jīn Dǐng Xuān 金鼎轩 ¥¥¥ ¥ 金鼎轩 金鼎轩 ¥¥¥ ¥
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Four bustling floors of great－value dim sum and Cantonese dishes by the south gate of Ditan Park．It never closes． 77 Hepingli Xijie，地坛南门和平里西街77号 地坛公园南门旁的四层热闹餐厅，提供超值的点心和粤菜。全天营业。地址：77 Hepingli Xijie，地坛南门和平里西街 77 号
Hú Dà 胡大饭馆 quad¥¥\quad ¥ ¥ 胡大饭馆 quad¥¥\quad ¥ ¥
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Sichuan crayfish cooked in chilli－red oil，then pulled apart and gobbled up with gloved fingers．The queues are epic． 284 Dongzhimennei Dajie，东直门内大街284号 四川小龙虾在红油中烹制，然后用手套撕开并大快朵颐。排队的人潮壮观。东直门内大街 284 号
Gather around the table－top grill for barbecued lamb skewers， chicken wings and garlic－roasted eggplant． 209 Dongzhimennei Dajie，东直门内大街209号 围坐在桌边烧烤架旁，享用烤羊肉串、鸡翅和蒜香烤茄子。209 Dongzhimennei Dajie，东直门内大街 209 号
Stylish 时尚
Fúróngji 福荣记 ¥¥\mathbf{¥} ¥ 福荣记 ¥¥\mathbf{¥} ¥
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Feast on modern dim sum at this upscale hutong restaurant． 在这家高档胡同餐厅享用现代点心
Everything on the menu is deliciously creative，from wasabi－shrimp spring rolls to curry－filled sesame puffs． 63 Baochao Hutong，宝钞胡同63号 菜单上的每道菜都极具创意且美味，从芥末虾春卷到咖喱芝麻泡芙。63 Baochao Hutong，宝钞胡同 63 号
King＇s Joy 京兆尹 ¥¥¥¥ ¥ ¥
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Founded by chef Pan Jianjun，a former Buddhist disciple，this is the finest vegetarian meal in the city． 2 Wudaoying Hutong，五道营胡同2号 由前佛教弟子、厨师潘建军创立，这是城市中最好的素食餐。五道营胡同 2 号
International 国际
Saveurs de Corée ¥!=¥ \neq
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Bulgogi（marinated grilled beef slices），seafood pancakes，hearty bibimbap rice bowls and a fabulous Korean set lunch menu．2nd fl， Rum Coabana Hotel， 22 Dongzhimen Beixiaojie，东直门北小街22号 韩式烤肉（腌制烤牛肉片）、海鲜煎饼、丰盛的拌饭和精美的韩式套餐午餐菜单。2 楼，Rum Coabana 酒店，东直门北小街 22 号
Toast ¥¥¥ ¥ 祝酒 ¥¥¥ ¥
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Middle Eastern－inspired sharing plates draw the crowds to this stylish，all－weather rooftop restau－rant． 65 Baochao Hutong，Gulou Dongdajie，鼓楼东大街宝钞胡同65号 这家时尚的全天候屋顶餐厅以其中东风格的共享餐盘吸引了大批食客。地址：鼓楼东大街宝钞胡同 65 号
theta\theta
Drinking 喝酒
Bars 酒吧
Great Leap Brewing \＃6 Great Leap Brewing #6
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Lost in a maze of alleys east of Houhai，this tumbledown courtyard is where Beijing＇s craft－beer scene first burped into life．No food． 6 Doujiao Hutong，豆角胡同6号 迷失在后海东边的胡同迷宫中，这个破败的院子是北京精酿啤酒文化的发源地。不提供食物。6 Doujiao Hutong，豆角胡同 6 号
Factory 工厂
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Chill pop－culture bar and cafe，with DJs，couches，a backroom comics shop and pizza． 135 Gulou Dongdajie，鼓楼东大街135号 潮流文化酒吧兼咖啡馆，有 DJ、沙发、后屋漫画店和披萨。135 Gulou Dongdajie，鼓楼东大街 135 号
Nuoyan Wine Bar 诺言酒馆
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Try something new at this rustic tavern specialising in Chinese wine made from glutinous rice．It＇s inside the People＇s Art Printing House compound． 7 Banqiao Nanxiang，板桥南巷7号 在这家专营中国糯米酒的乡村小酒馆尝试一些新东西。它位于人民美术印刷厂院内。地址：板桥南巷 7 号
Live Music 现场音乐
Modernista
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Local bands，cabaret，salsa dancing and life drawing are just some of the antics unfolding nightly at this arty Jazz Age bar． 44 Baochao Hutong，宝钞胡同44号 本地乐队、卡巴莱歌舞、萨尔萨舞和人体素描只是这家充满艺术气息的爵士时代酒吧每晚上演的一些精彩活动。44 Baochao Hutong，宝钞胡同 44 号
Jiāng Hú 江湖
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A hip hutong livehouse popular with local music－ians，Jiāng Hú stages folk，blues and jazz most nights in its courtyard space． 7 Dongmianhua Hutong，东棉花胡同7号 一个深受当地音乐人喜爱的胡同现场音乐场所，Jiāng Hú 在其庭院空间里大部分夜晚都会上演民谣、布鲁斯和爵士乐。地址：7 Dongmianhua Hutong，东棉花胡同 7 号
Yue Space
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Check out up－and－coming Chinese bands at this arty，500－capacity livehouse．It＇s inside the People＇s Art Printing House compound． 7 Banqiao Nanxiang，北新桥板桥南巷7号 在这家艺术气息浓厚、可容纳 500 人的现场音乐厅欣赏崭露头角的中国乐队。它位于人民美术印刷厂大院内。地址：北新桥板桥南巷 7 号
Cafes 咖啡馆
Cafe Zarah
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Ground zero for Gulou＇s laptop warriors，Zarah is a stylish hutong hangout adored for its charming staff，good coffee and potent cocktails． 46 Gulou Dongdajie，鼓楼东大街46号 Zarah 是鼓楼地区笔记本电脑战士的聚集地，这家时尚的胡同休闲场所因其迷人的员工、美味的咖啡和烈性鸡尾酒而备受喜爱。地址：46 Gulou Dongdajie，鼓楼东大街 46 号
Stillwater
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Modern design meets a traditional setting at this peaceful cafe．The rooftop terrace with hutong views is a great spot when it＇s sunny． 69 现代设计与传统环境在这家宁静的咖啡馆相遇。天气晴朗时，可以欣赏胡同景色的屋顶露台是个绝佳去处。69
Gulou Dajie，鼓楼东大街69号 Gulou Dajie，鼓楼东大街 69 号
Metal Hands Coffee
31 E2
Tiny coffee joint with aproned baristas and Instagrammable foam art．It＇s one of many cafes on this busy strip near the Lama Temple． 61 Wudaoying Hutong，五道营胡同61号 小咖啡馆，系着围裙的咖啡师和适合拍照的泡沫艺术。这是喇嘛庙附近这条繁忙街道上的众多咖啡馆之一。61 Wudaoying Hutong，五道营胡同 61 号
Explore Temple of Heaven & Dongcheng South 探索天坛和东城南
A pilgrimage to the Temple of Heaven, 3 km south of the Forbidden City, is as mandatory for tourists today as it was for emperors and their entourages coming here during the winter solstice to pay tribute to the gods. The temple occupies a vast tranche of real estate - prepare for lots of walking. Enticing remnants of Beijing’s city fortifications are north of the temple, plus the new home of the vast imperial archives, once stored next to the Forbidden City. Immediately south of Tiananmen Square is the Qianmen Dajie shopping strip, conveying tourists along Beijing’s central axis. 前往位于紫禁城南 3 公里的天坛朝圣，对于今天的游客来说，就像昔日皇帝及其随从在冬至时节前来向神明致敬一样是必不可少的。天坛占地广阔，要做好大量步行的准备。天坛以北是北京城墙的迷人遗迹，还有曾经存放在紫禁城旁的庞大皇家档案的新家。紧邻天安门广场南侧的是前门大街购物区，沿着北京的中轴线引领游客。
Runs east-west along the northern edge of the neighbourhood, with stops at Qianmen (Qianmen Dajie), Chongwenmen (City Walls, Imperial Archives) and the Beijing Railway Station. 沿社区北部边缘东西向延伸，途经前门（前门大街）、崇文门（城墙、皇史宬）和北京站。
(S) Subway Line 5 (S) 地铁 5 号线
Runs north-south. Connects lines 1 and 2 with the Temple of Heaven east gate. 南北走向。连接 1 号线和 2 号线，通往天坛东门。
(S) Subway Line 8 (S) 地铁 8 号线
Runs north-south. Connects lines 1 and 2 with the Temple of Heaven west gate (Tianqiao stop). 南北走向。连接 1 号线和 2 号线，以及天坛西门（天桥站）。
THE BEST 最佳
IMPERIAL ALTAR Temple of Heaven IMPERIAL ALTAR 天坛PEARLS Hongqiao Pearl Market SOUVENIRS Qianmen Dajie 珍珠 虹桥珍珠市场 纪念品 前门大街HISTORIC MAPS First Historical Archives of China 历史地图 中国第一历史档案馆CITY WALLS Southeast Corner Watchtower
○ Top Experiences ○ 顶级体验
Temple of Heaven Park B4 天坛公园 B4
- Experiences - 体验
1
Qianmen Dajie 前门大街
D6
2 Tóng Shēng Hé 2 同升和
D5
3
Jing Fans 京粉
D5
4
Shèng Xī Fú 盛锡福
D6
5
Madame Tussauds Waxworks 杜莎夫人蜡像馆
D5
6
Southeast Corner Watchtower 东南角楼
D 2
7
Ming City Wall Ruins Park 明城墙遗址公园
C 2
8
Hongqiao Pearl Market 虹桥珍珠市场
C 4
9
First Historical Archives of China 中国第一历史档案馆
B 2
1 Qianmen Dajie D6
2 Tóng Shēng Hé D5
3 Jing Fans D5
4 Shèng Xī Fú D6
5 Madame Tussauds Waxworks D5
6 Southeast Corner Watchtower D 2
7 Ming City Wall Ruins Park C 2
8 Hongqiao Pearl Market C 4
9 First Historical Archives of China B 2| 1 | Qianmen Dajie | D6 |
| :--- | :--- | :---: |
| 2 Tóng Shēng Hé | D5 | |
| 3 | Jing Fans | D5 |
| 4 | Shèng Xī Fú | D6 |
| 5 | Madame Tussauds Waxworks | D5 |
| 6 | Southeast Corner Watchtower | D 2 |
| 7 | Ming City Wall Ruins Park | C 2 |
| 8 | Hongqiao Pearl Market | C 4 |
| 9 | First Historical Archives of China | B 2 |
（MAP Google MAP）A conduit to the cosmos，the Temple of Heaven（天坛，Tiāntán；Tiantan Donglu，天坛东路）originally served as the vast stage for solemn rites performed by the emperor，who prayed here for good harvests．After 1918 it opened its gates to the public，and it remains one of the city＇s loveliest parks． （MAP Google MAP）通往宇宙的通道，天坛（天坛，Tiāntán；天坛东路，Tiantan Donglu）最初是皇帝举行庄严仪式的广阔舞台，他在这里祈求丰收。1918 年后，它向公众开放，至今仍是这座城市最美丽的公园之一
PLANNING TIP 规划小贴士
There are four gates to the park，one on each point of the compass； the east gate is most convenient for visitors，followed by the west gate． 公园有四个大门，分别位于罗盘的四个方向；东门对游客来说最为方便，其次是西门
Scan this QR code then scroll to the bottom of the page to book tickets for the Temple of Heaven 扫描此二维码，然后滚动到页面底部预订天坛门票
The Winter Solstice Ceremony 冬至庆典
Imagine you were a commoner living in Beijing hundreds of years ago．It＇s the day before winter solstice，and for this reason，you are not permitted to go outside or even open your door．But maybe，being curious，you can＇t help but sneak a glance through the crack in your gate．This is what you might see：an enormous imperial entourage，as long as a celestial dragon，proceeding through the Outer City in total silence． 想象你是一个生活在数百年前的北京平民。冬至前一天，你被禁止外出，甚至不能开门。但出于好奇，你忍不住从门缝中偷看。你可能会看到：一支如天龙般庞大的皇家队伍，悄然无声地穿过外城
Soldiers in blue robes and round caps guard the perimeter. Past them, you can make out the red ceremonial robes of the neverending lines of officials and noblemen; their three-tiered parasols, giant fans made of peacock feathers and fluttering triangular banners in white, black, blue and yellow held high above their heads. And past them, at the centre, you catch a glimpse of the royal chariots, drawn by teams of white horses and monstrous elephants. Finally, the emperor himself passes by, carried by 10 men in a curtained 12 m -long sedan chair. They are all en route to the Temple of Heaven, where the emperor will lodge in the Fasting Palace. He must abstain from all earthly pleasures before the solemn ceremony the next day, held in order to guarantee good harvests for the entire realm for the coming year. 身着蓝袍、头戴圆帽的士兵守卫着四周。越过他们，你可以看到一望无际的官员和贵族队伍，他们身着红色礼服；他们头顶高举着三层华盖、孔雀羽毛制成的巨大扇子，以及飘扬的黑、白、蓝、黄三角旗帜。再往深处，在中央位置，你可以瞥见由白马和巨象拉动的皇家马车。最后，皇帝本人乘着由十人抬起的 12 米长帷幔轿子经过。他们正前往天坛，皇帝将在斋宫暂住。在次日举行的庄严仪式之前，他必须戒绝一切世俗享乐，以确保来年整个国家的好收成。
SYMBOLISM 象征主义
Shape, sound and colour convene in symbolic harmony at the Temple of Heaven. The cosmic overtones of the place will delight numerologists, necromancers and the super-stitious - not to mention acoustic engineers and carpenters. Seen from above, the structures are round and their bases square, a pattern deriving from the ancient Chinese belief that heaven is round and earth is square. 形状、声音和色彩在天坛以象征性的和谐汇聚。这个地方的宇宙氛围会让数字命理学家、通灵者和迷信者感到愉悦——更不用说声学工程师和木匠了。从上方看，建筑呈圆形，基座为方形，这种模式源自中国古代的天圆地方观念。
Preparing for the Ceremony 为仪式做准备
The Temple of Heaven is not just an imperial temple, it is a massive park, dotted with 4000 wizened cypresses, which envelope the central axis of sacred halls. Entering through the east gate will take you beneath the trees and past the area where the sacrifices were prepared. 天坛不仅仅是一座皇家寺庙，它还是一个巨大的公园，点缀着 4000 棵古老的柏树，环绕着神圣殿堂的中轴线。从东门进入，您将穿过树林，经过祭祀准备区。
The first building you’ll encounter is the Animal Sacrifice Pavilion, which is followed by the ornamental Long Corridor. This corridor once facilitated the transport of sacrificial animals to the Divine Kitchen compound, where a team of 90 cooks bustled about. Today, the kitchen buildings display ritual clothing and musical instruments. From here, the Long Corridor continues until it reaches the temple’s centrepiece: the Hall of 首先映入眼帘的是宰牲亭，接着是装饰华丽的长廊。这条长廊曾用于将祭祀动物运送到神厨院落，那里曾有 90 名厨师忙碌的身影。如今，厨房建筑内陈列着祭祀服装和乐器。从这里开始，长廊一直延伸至寺庙的核心建筑：祈年殿。
Prayer for Good Harvests. 祈求丰收。
Note: if you enter via the west gate, you’ll pass instead the Fasting Palace (largely empty) and the Divine Music Administration (currently closed to the public). 注意：如果您从西门进入，您将会经过斋宫（大部分是空的）和神乐署（目前不对外开放）。
The Hall of Prayer for Good Harvests 祈年殿
Rich in esoteric symbolism, this marvellous triple-eaved circular building is unlike any other in China. From afar you can admire the hall’s unique design, capped with blue roof tiles that reflect its heavenly status. Climb the stairs to see the 28 concentric pillars and 36 inter-locking rafters that support the building - not a single nail was used in its construction. As the name suggests, this is where the emperor offered prayers for the coming year and was the last stop in the ritual. It’s connected with the buildings to the south, where the sacrifices were made, via the 360 m -long Danbi Bridge. 这座精美的三重檐圆形建筑富含深奥的象征意义，在中国独一无二。从远处可以欣赏到这座殿堂的独特设计，其顶部覆盖着蓝色琉璃瓦，象征着其神圣地位。登上台阶，可以看到支撑建筑的 28 根同心柱和 36 根交错排列的椽子——整个建筑没有使用一颗钉子。顾名思义，这里是皇帝为来年祈福的地方，也是祭祀仪式的最后一站。它通过长达 360 米的丹陛桥与南边的建筑相连，那里是进行祭祀的地方。
If you only have time for one stop in the Temple of Heaven, this is it. Count on at least an hour. 如果你在天坛只能停留一站，就是这里了。预计至少需要一小时。
Imperial Vault of Heaven & Round Altar 皇穹宇与圜丘坛
The next building on the central axis is the Imperial Vault of Heaven, enclosed by a low circular wall known as the Echo Wall. Despite its splendid architecture, this was merely a storeroom, used for the divine spirit tablets and other sacrificial materials. The Echo Wall, 65 m in diameter, is so named for its unique acoustic properties. A quiet word or two spoken a few feet from the wall can be heard at the opposite point on the circle. 中轴线上的下一座建筑是皇穹宇，被一道低矮的圆形围墙环绕，称为回音壁。尽管其建筑华丽，这里实际上只是一个储藏室，用于存放神牌和其他祭祀用品。回音壁直径为 65 米，因其独特的声学特性而得名。在离墙几英尺的地方轻声说几句话，可以在圆形的另一端听到。
The sacrifices themselves were made at the Round Altar, a raised dais open to the elements at the southern end of the axis. Arranged in three tiers, its divine geometry revolves around the imperial number nine, considered sacrosanct in imperial China. 祭祀活动本身在圜丘坛举行，这是一个位于轴线南端的露天高台。它分为三层，其神圣的几何构造围绕着皇家的数字九，在帝制中国被视为神圣不可侵犯。 Imperial Vault of Heaven｜V＿E／SHUTHERSTOCK（c） 皇穹宇｜V＿E／SHUTHERSTOCK（c）
QUICK BREAK 快速休息
Just outside the park＇s east gate is the Hongqiao Pearl Market， which has a great food court in the basement．Options range from hotpot to spicy Hunan to Indian curries． 公园东门外就是 Hongqiao Pearl Market，地下层有一个很棒的美食广场。选择范围从火锅到湖南辣味再到印度咖喱
Taichi in the Park 公园里的太极拳
The Temple of Heaven is one of Beijing＇s most popular parks，where early birds gather to exercise．Why not join them for a morning of taichi？ Characterised by its graceful，slow－motion movements，taichi is an internal martial art that aims to relax the mind and develop inner qi（vital energy）， with roots in Taoist meditation and yin－yang cosmology．English－speaking instructors are hard to find，so be sure to book your class in advance．The San Feng Tai Chi Club（北京三丰太极堂）teaches three styles；classes are usually held on weekends．Contact Eric at sanfengtaichi＠gmail．com． 天坛公园是北京最受欢迎的公园之一，早起的人们聚集在这里锻炼。何不加入他们，体验一个早晨的太极呢？太极以其优雅、缓慢的动作而著称，是一种旨在放松心灵、培养内气的内家武术，其根源可追溯至道家的冥想和阴阳宇宙观。说英语的教练很难找到，所以一定要提前预订课程。北京三丰太极堂教授三种风格的太极；课程通常在周末进行。联系 Eric，邮箱：sanfengtaichi@gmail.com
Alternatively, Bespoke Travel offers private classes with a Shaolin-trained master (bespoketravelcompany.com). 另外，Bespoke Travel 提供由少林寺训练的大师教授的私人课程（bespoketravelcompany.com）。
EXPERIENCES 体验
Strolling Qianmen Dajie 漫步前门大街
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Running due south from the mighty Qianmen，Beijing＇s former front gate， was Qianmen Dajie（前门大街），once the main commercial thoroughfare of the Outer City． 从前门——北京的前门——正南方向延伸的是前门大街，曾经是外城的主要商业通道
Razed and rebuilt for the 2008 Olympics，Qianmen today consists of a short pedestrian shopping strip．More relaxed than Nanluogu Xiang and with a greater variety of shops，it＇s good for a short leisurely stroll，and can be combined with a walk through Dashilar． 为 2008 年奥运会而拆除重建的前门，如今是一条短短的步行购物街。它比南锣鼓巷更为轻松，店铺种类也更丰富，适合悠闲地短暂漫步，还可以与大栅栏的步行游览相结合
Look for traditional cloth slippers at Tóng Shēng Hé（同升和；No 17； MAP Goocle MAP），fans at Jing Fans（京扇子，Jīngshànzǐ；No 35；MAP Goocle MAP）and hats at Shèng Xī Fú（盛锡福；No 57；MAP GOocle MAP）， which has been in business since 1937. 在同升和（No 17；MAP Goocle MAP）寻找传统布鞋，在京扇子（No 35；MAP Goocle MAP）挑选扇子，在盛锡福（No 57；MAP GOocle MAP）选购帽子，这家店自 1937 年就开始营业了。
Also on this strip is Madame Tussauds Waxworks（北京杜莎夫人蜡像馆，Běijīng Dùshā Fūrén Làxiàng Guǎn；No 16；MAP Gooclemap），where Jackie Chan and Karl Marx welcome tourists． 这条街上还有 Madame Tussauds Waxworks（北京杜莎夫人蜡像馆，Běijīng Dùshā Fūrén Làxiàng Guǎn；No 16；MAP Gooclemap），成龙和卡尔·马克思在此迎接游客
If you＇re feeling peckish，popular snack shops include Qing dynasty dumpling purveyors Dōuyīchù and Méndīng Ròubǐng，which sells takeaway meat pies． 如果你感到有点饿，受欢迎的零食店包括清朝饺子供应商都一处和门钉肉饼，后者出售外卖肉饼
Climb the Ruins of the City Wall 攀登城墙遗址
The immense Southeast Corner Watchtower（东南角楼，Dōngnán Jiǎolóu； 9 Chongwenmen Dondajie，崇文门东大街9号；MAP GOOGLEMAP）is connected to the only surviving section of Beijing＇s city walls． 巨大的东南角楼（Dōngnán Jiǎolóu；崇文门东大街 9 号；MAP GOOGLEMAP）与北京城墙唯一现存的部分相连
Originally built in 1439 ，the tower is skewered with a formidable grid of 144 archery embrasures，able to rain fire on would－be attackers．Visitors can mount the battlements and explore the tower itself，a magnificent maze of carpentry over multiple floors，including an exhibition of historical photographs． 该塔最初建于 1439 年，塔身布有 144 个箭窗的强大网格，能够对潜在的攻击者倾泻火力。游客可以登上城墙并探索塔本身，这是一个跨越多层的精美木制迷宫，包括一个历史照片展览
From the ramparts，gaze on the city wall as it flows west；in the far distance you can make out the central Qianmen Gate，which gives you some idea of just how massive the walls once were．Also keep an eye out for graffiti scratched into the tower by American and Russian soldiers during the Boxer Rebellion in 1900. 从城墙上眺望，可以看到城墙向西延伸；在远处，你可以辨认出中央的前门，这让你对城墙曾经的宏伟规模有所了解。同时，留意 1900 年义和团运动期间，美国和俄罗斯士兵在塔楼上刻下的涂鸦。
Get here by strolling the path alongside the wistful stretch of brick and stone of the Ming City Wall Ruins Park（明城墙遗址公园，Míng Chéngqiáng Yízhǐ Gōngyuán；MAP GOOGLE MAP），all that remains of the wall itself．This section extends for 1.2 km ，rising to a height of around 15 m with defensive buttresses every 80 m ． 漫步于明城墙遗址公园（Míng Chéngqiáng Yízhǐ Gōngyuán；MAP GOOGLE MAP）旁的小径，这里是城墙仅存的遗迹。这段城墙延伸 1.2 公里，高达约 15 米，每隔 80 米设有防御性扶壁。
THE FOX TOWER
It was just outside the Southeast Corner Watchtower, also known as the Fox Tower, that the body of a murdered British woman, Pamela 就在东南角楼外，也就是被称为狐狸塔的地方，发现了一具被谋杀的英国女子帕梅拉的尸体
Werner, was discovered in 1937, as recounted in the true-crime novel Midnight in Peking. Bespoke Travel Werner 于 1937 年被发现，正如真实犯罪小说《午夜北平》中所讲述的那样。Bespoke Travel
(bespoketravelcompany.com) runs the official Midnight in Peking Walking Tour, occasionally hosted by author Paul French himself. (bespoketravelcompany.com) 运营着官方的《午夜北平》步行之旅，偶尔由作者保罗·弗伦奇本人主持。
Browse for Freshwater Pearls 浏览淡水珍珠
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Occupying a purpose－built mall beside the Temple of Heaven＇s east gate，the Hongqiao Pearl Market（红桥市场，Hóngqiáo Shìchǎng； 9 Tiantan Lu，天坛路9号）is a convenient place to stop for pearls，souvenirs and electronics． Though it feels comparatively polished，you＇ll still need your haggling hat on． 位于天坛东门旁专门建造的商场内，红桥市场（Hongqiao Pearl Market；天坛路 9 号）是购买珍珠、纪念品和电子产品的便捷之地。虽然这里感觉相对高档，但你仍需准备好讨价还价
The 1st floor has the standard array of Chinese knock－offs：Louis Vuitton bags，Gucci apparel，kids＇kung－fu outfits and a random assortment of T－ shirts．The 2nd floor sells electronics－there are some good deals here，but you need to know what you＇re looking for．The namesake pearls are found on 一楼有标准的中国仿冒品：Louis Vuitton 包、Gucci 服装、儿童功夫服和各种 T 恤。二楼出售电子产品——这里有一些不错的交易，但你需要知道自己要找什么。同名的珍珠则位于
the 3rd floor．Devoted pearl shoppers can check out the quieter 4th floor as well． 三楼。热衷于购买珍珠的顾客还可以去较为安静的四楼看看
By some accounts，China produces 95%95 \% of the world＇s cultured pearls，of which around 10%10 \% are traded at Hongqiao Pearl Market．A string of the humblest Chinese freshwater pearls will set you back about ¥300¥ 300 ．The largest，most lustrous South Sea varieties can cost a thousand times more． 据报道，中国生产了世界上 95%95 \% 的养殖珍珠，其中大约 10%10 \% 在香港桥珍珠市场交易。一串最普通的中国淡水珍珠价格约为 ¥300¥ 300 。而最大、最光彩夺目的南海珍珠价格可能高达千倍以上
Peer into the Past at the Imperial Archives 在 Imperial Archives 窥探历史
map goocle map 地图 Google 地图
For the past 650 years，the entirety of the court＇s documents were stored at the Imperial Archives on Nanchizi Dajie．In 2022，the collection was moved to the First Historical Archives of China（中国第一历史档案馆，Zhōngguó Dìyī Lìshǐ Dàng＇àn Guǎn； 9 Qinian Dajie，祈年大街9号；fhac．com．cn）， which includes a fantastic，small exhibition space on the 3rd floor． Expect to see treasures such as the world＇s largest map of dynastic China （ 3.86mxx4.56m3.86 \mathrm{~m} \times 4.56 \mathrm{~m} ；1389），retroactively annotated in Manchurian．The Complete Map of Mountains and Rivers along the Jinsha River is another stunner：extending for 77.4 m （only a tiny fraction is on display）－look closely，you can even see details like peddlers selling steamed buns to fishermen．Other documents include biographies from the Ming Military Position Selection Book，imperial edicts sent out to provincial subordinates and plenty of gorgeous reports in Manchurian，Mongolian and Chinese．Fire up your photo－translation app as there＇s little English．It＇s closed on Sundays． 在过去的 650 年里，所有的宫廷文件都存放在南池子大街的皇家档案馆。2022 年，这些藏品被转移到了中国第一历史档案馆（中国第一历史档案馆，Zhōngguó Dìyī Lìshǐ Dàng'àn Guǎn；祈年大街 9 号；fhac.com.cn），馆内三楼设有一个精彩的展览空间。你可以期待看到诸如世界上最大的中国朝代地图（ 3.86mxx4.56m3.86 \mathrm{~m} \times 4.56 \mathrm{~m} ；1389 年）等珍宝，该地图后来用满文进行了注释。《金沙江沿岸山川全图》同样令人惊叹：全长 77.4 米（仅展示了一小部分）——仔细观察，你甚至可以看到卖包子给渔夫的小贩等细节。其他文件包括《明军职选簿》中的传记、发给省级下属的圣旨，以及大量用满文、蒙古文和中文书写的华丽报告。由于英文内容较少，建议使用照片翻译应用。该馆周日闭馆。
The granddaddy of duck roasting，Bianyifang uses antique closed ovens rather than hanging over a fruitwood flame．This yields juicier meat and softer skin，which eaters stuff into sesame rolls called shaobing．65－77 Xianyukou Jie，鲜鱼口街65－77号 烤鸭的鼻祖，便宜坊使用古老的封闭式烤炉，而非悬挂在果木火焰上。这样烤出的鸭肉更多汁，皮更软，食客们将其塞入名为烧饼的芝麻卷中。鲜鱼口街 65－77 号
Quanjude Roast Duck Restaurant 前门全聚德烤鸭店
¥¥¥¥ ¥ ¥
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Founded in 1864 by a poultry dealer named Yang Quanren， Quanjude is Beijing＇s most famous roast－duck brand．While this branch on pedestrian Qianmen Dajie is geared to tourists，it is certainly convenient． 30 Qianmen Dajie，前门大街30号 全聚德由一位名叫杨全仁的家禽商于 1864 年创立，是北京最著名的烤鸭品牌。虽然这家位于步行街前门大街的分店主要面向游客，但确实非常方便。30 Qianmen Dajie，前门大街 30 号
Dumplings \＆Buns 饺子 \＆包子
Méndīng Ròubǐng 门钉肉饼 ¥¥ 门钉肉饼 Méndīng Ròubǐng ¥¥
Allegedly one of Empress Dowager Cixi＇s favourite treats，the ＇doornail meat pie＇（so called because of its shape）is a classic Beijing takeaway snack－the pork filling is scorching hot，so eat carefully． 53 Qianmen Dajie，前门大街53号 据说是慈禧太后最喜爱的点心之一，门钉肉饼（因其形状而得名）是经典的北京外卖小吃——猪肉馅非常烫，请小心食用。53 Qianmen Dajie，前门大街 53 号
Dōuyīchù 都一处 ¥¥¥ ¥ 都一处 ¥¥¥ ¥
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The speciality at this historic spot is shaomai，a variety of steamed dumpling filled with lamb，shrimp or vegetables．Be prepared to queue． 38 Qianmen Dajie，前门大街38号 这家历史悠久的店铺的特色是烧麦，一种填充有羊肉、虾或蔬菜的蒸饺。请做好排队的准备。前门大街 38 号
Explore 探索
Beihai Park & Xicheng North 北海公园与西城北区
On the shoulder of the Forbidden City, the willow-lined waters of Beihai Park and the trio of lakes that comprise Shichahai (Qianhai, Houhai and Xihai) are Beijing’s answer to possessing neither river nor coastline. Excavated during massive Yuan dynasty waterworks projects, these lakes served as reservoirs for the city’s drinking water and scenic gardens for the imperial family. Venture into the antique warren of hutong north of Fuchengmennei Dajie and you’ll get a glimpse of old Beijing. Temples rise majestically above grey-tiled rooftops, holes-in-the-wall bake sesame shaobing bread and the soundtrack is authentically gruff Beijinghua, the local dialect. 在紫禁城的肩旁，北海公园的柳树成荫的水域和由什刹海（前海、后海和西海）组成的三片湖泊，是北京对没有河流和海岸线的回应。这些湖泊在元朝大规模水利工程中开挖，曾作为城市饮用水的水库和皇家的风景园林。深入阜成门内大街以北的古旧胡同迷宫，你将一窥老北京的风貌。寺庙雄伟地耸立在灰色瓦顶之上，墙洞里的烤芝麻烧饼，以及地道的北京话——本地方言，构成了真实的背景音。
Getting Around 出行指南
(S) Subway Line 2 (S) 地铁 2 号线
Runs north-south through Xicheng, with stops at Fuchengmen (White Dagoba Temple). 自北向南穿过西城区，停靠阜成门（白塔寺）。
(S) Subway Line 4 (S) 地铁 4 号线
Runs north-south through Xicheng, with stops at Xisi (Temple of Ancient Monarchs) and Ping’anli (Lines 6 & 19). 南北向穿过西城区，在西四（古帝王庙）和平安里（6 号线和 19 号线）设有站点。
(S) Subway Line 6 (S) 地铁 6 号线
Runs east-west through Xicheng, with stops at Beihai Bei (Beihai Park), Ping’anli (Lines 4 & 19) and Chegongzhuang (Line 2). 东西向穿过西城区，停靠北海北（北海公园）、平安里（4 号线和 19 号线）和车公庄（2 号线）。
(S) Subway Line 8 (S) 地铁 8 号线
Shichahai is the most convenient stop for the Qianhai and Houhai Lakes. 什刹海是前往前海和后海最便捷的站点。
THE BEST 最佳
IMPERIAL PLAYGROUND Beihai Park 皇家游乐场 北海公园
BUDDHIST STUPA Miaoying Temple 佛教舍利塔 妙应寺
HISTORICAL ARTEFACTS Capital Museum 历史文物 首都博物馆
REVOLUTIONARY ICON Song Qingling REVOLUTIONARY ICON 宋庆龄
LIVE MUSIC East Shore Jazz Bar
6
Capital Museum 首都博物馆
B6
7
Miaoying Temple 妙应寺
B 6
8
Temple of Ancient Monarchs 历代帝王庙
C 6
9 Wansong Laoren Pagoda
D 6
6 Capital Museum B6
7 Miaoying Temple B 6
8 Temple of Ancient Monarchs C 6
9 Wansong Laoren Pagoda D 6 | 6 | Capital Museum | B6 |
| :--- | :--- | :--- |
| 7 | Miaoying Temple | B 6 |
| 8 | Temple of Ancient Monarchs | C 6 |
| 9 Wansong Laoren Pagoda | D 6 | |
A royal playground for the imperial family since the Jin dynasty（1115－ 1234），the enclosed lake and gardens of Beihai Park（北海公园，Běihǎi Gōngyuán）still retain much of their charm．There are two main areas： the historic buildings clustered along the northwestern shore and Jade Islet in the south． 自金朝（1115－1234）以来，作为皇室的游乐场所，北海公园（Běihǎi Gōngyuán）的湖泊和园林依然保留着大部分魅力。主要分为两个区域：西北岸的历史建筑群和南部的琼华岛
MAP GOOGLE MAP 地图 GOOGLE MAP
Bridge to JadeTslef GUSTAVO MONIZ FERREIRA／SHUUTTERSTOCK（C） 玉带桥 GUSTAVO MONIZ FERREIRA／SHUUTTERSTOCK（C）
To hire a boat in summer，you＇ll need to pay a hefty deposit（ ¥400-¥ 400- 800）．Boat choices range from four－person pedal boats to six－ person electric boats． 夏季租船需要支付高额押金（ ¥400-¥ 400- 800）。船只选择从四人脚踏船到六人电动船不等
Northwestern Shore 西北岸
One of several fascinating buildings along the north shore is Jingxin Studio （静心斋，Jingxīn Zhāi），a＇garden within a garden＇and a favourite retreat of the Qianlong Emperor，who would sip tea，listen to the plucking of the guqin （Chinese zither）and savour the carp－filled pools and scenic views． 北岸几座迷人的建筑之一是静心斋（Jingxin Zhai），一个“园中园”，也是乾隆皇帝最喜欢的隐居之地，他会在这里品茶、听古琴（中国古筝）演奏，并欣赏满池的鲤鱼和美景
Western Heaven（西天梵境，Xītiān Fánjìng）was a lamasery during the Ming dynasty，and was subsequently rebuilt in 1759；it＇s fronted by a magnificent four－pillared memorial arch．Beyond the Hall of the Heavenly Kings is its centrepiece，a gorgeous Ming－era hall of unpainted cedar．Nearby is the Nine Dragon Screen，a 27 m －long spirit wall emblazoned with coiled dragons． 西天梵境（Xītiān Fánjìng）在明朝时期是一座喇嘛庙，随后于 1759 年重建；其前方是一座宏伟的四柱纪念牌坊。在天王殿之后是其核心建筑，一座未上漆的雪松木建造的华丽明代殿堂。附近是九龙壁，一面 27 米长的灵墙，上面装饰着盘绕的龙
At the northwest corner of the lake，the Ming dynasty Five Dragon Pavilions（五龙亭，Wǔlóng Tíng），which jut out over the water，were a fishing spot for emperors；nowadays they＇re the haunt of ballroom－dancing couples．Close by，Little Western Heaven（小西天，Xiǎoxītiān）is the largest square pavilion－style palace in China．It was built in secret as a gift for the Qianlong Emperor’s mother on her 80th birthday．Ferries（ ¥20¥ 20 ）run between the North Shore and Jade Islet，or you can walk． 在湖的西北角，明朝的五龙亭（五龙亭，Wǔlóng Tíng）伸向水面，曾是皇帝的垂钓之地；如今则是舞厅舞伴们的聚集地。附近的小西天（小西天，Xiǎoxītiān）是中国最大的方形亭式宫殿。它是秘密建造的，作为乾隆皇帝母亲 80 岁生日的礼物。渡轮（ ¥20¥ 20 ）在北岸和琼华岛之间运行，你也可以步行前往
Jade Islet 琼华岛
Shaped from the earth scooped out to create Beihai Lake，the steep Jade Islet （琼华岛，Qiónghuá Dǎo）is crowned with the 36m－high Tibetan－style White Dagoba，built in 1651 by the first Qing emperor to honour a visit by the Dalai Lama．While you can access the islet from the west，it＇s best to enter via the south gate．This approach allows you to enter via Yong＇an Temple（永安寺， Yǒngān Sì），which extends up the steep southern slope to the summit． 从挖掘北海湖的泥土中塑造而成的陡峭琼华岛（Qiónghuá Dǎo），顶端矗立着 36 米高的藏式白塔，由清朝第一位皇帝于 1651 年为纪念达赖喇嘛的访问而建。虽然你可以从西侧进入岛屿，但最好通过南门进入。这条路线允许你通过永安寺（Yǒngān Sì）进入，该寺沿着陡峭的南坡延伸至山顶
The circular fortress known as Round City（团城，Tuán Chéng）just outside the south gate of Beihai was the site of Kublai Khan＇s palace in the 位于北海南门外的圆形堡垒团城（Tuán Chéng）曾是忽必烈汗宫殿的所在地
Yuan dynasty．All that survives are a few wizened old cypress trees and a humongous，ceremonial wine vessel made of green jade dating from 1265. It＇s on display in front of the Hall of Divine Light，which has a 1.5 m －tall statue of Sakyamuni，made from Burmese white jade．In winter，ice skating takes place south of Jade Islet． 元代。幸存下来的只有几棵干枯的老柏树和一个巨大的绿色玉制酒器，可追溯至 1265 年。它在神光殿前展出，殿内有一尊 1.5 米高的释迦牟尼佛像，由缅甸白玉制成。冬季，冰上滑冰活动在琼华岛以南举行。
QUICK BREAK 快速休息
Qingfeng Steamed Dumpling Shop（庆丰包子铺，Qìngfēng Bāozǐ Pù） on the southern side of Jade Islet is the only place to eat inside the park． 琼华岛南侧的庆丰包子铺（Qìngfēng Bāozǐ Pù）是公园内唯一的用餐地点
WALKING TOUR 步行游览
A Stroll Around Houhai 漫步后海
Houhai（the Back Sea；后海）is the willow－lined lake north of Qianhai （the Front Sea；前海）and Beihai Park．Under the Mongols（1279－1368） it marked the northern terminus of the Grand Canal；later it became a royal retreat during the Qing dynasty as Manchu nobles built mansions along its shores．Crowds converge at the Silver Ingot Bridge． 后海（Houhai）是前海（Qianhai）和北海公园以北的柳树成荫的湖泊。在蒙古人统治时期（1279-1368），它标志着大运河的北端；后来在清朝时期，随着满族贵族在湖畔建造宅邸，这里成为皇室的休憩之地。人群聚集在银锭桥（Silver Ingot Bridge）
Going north from the bridge, turn left into peaceful Ya’er Hutong, where after a few hundred metres you’ll reach Guanghua Temple, a working Buddhist temple dating from the far-off Yuan dynasty (closed to visitors). As the hutong bears sharp right, turn left (at No 46) along a narrow alley, which will take you to the lakeside. 从桥向北走，左转进入宁静的鸦儿胡同，走几百米后你会到达广化寺，这是一座始建于遥远元代的仍在使用的佛教寺庙（不对游客开放）。当胡同向右急转时，左转（在 46 号）沿着一条狭窄的小巷走，这条小巷将带你到达湖边。
2 The Last Emperor 2 末代皇帝
Turn right at the lake and push on past Prince Zaifeng’s former stables (at No 43) and Prince Chun’s Mansion (at No 44), where China’s last emperor, Puyi, was born. 在湖边右转，继续前行，经过载沣亲王的前马厩（位于 43 号）和醇亲王府（位于 44 号），中国末代皇帝溥仪就出生于此。
3 The Mother of Modern China 3 现代中国之母
Next up is Song Qingling’s Former Residence (MAP GOOGLE MAP), where Madame Song, the wife of Sun Yatsen, lived during the 1960s and 1970s. A revolutionary herself, she permanently broke with her family and sided with the communists during the civil war. Song Qingling held several senior positions in the government in the 1970s, even though she was never a member of the Communist Party. 接下来是宋庆龄故居（MAP GOOGLE MAP），这里是孙中山夫人宋庆龄在 1960 年代和 1970 年代居住的地方。作为一位革命者，她在内战期间与家族彻底决裂，选择了站在共产党一边。尽管宋庆龄从未加入中国共产党，但在 1970 年代她担任了多个政府高级职位。
4 Boats & Ballroom Dancing 4 船只与舞厅舞蹈
Follow the lake anticlockwise, passing the training site of the Beijing International Dragon Boat team, until you reach a small public square called Houhai Park, a popular spot for plaza dancing in the evenings. Take the access ramp at the far-right-hand corner of the square then leave the park by heading straight on (south) to Yangfang Hutong. 沿湖逆时针方向前行，经过北京国际龙舟队的训练场地，直到到达一个名为后海公园的小型公共广场，这里是傍晚广场舞的热门地点。从广场最右侧角落的坡道进入，然后径直向南离开公园，前往杨房胡同。
5 Princely Mansion
Turn left into the hutong, then right into Liuyin Jie and left into Daxiangfeng Hutong, following the looming grey-brick back wall of Prince Gong’s Mansion (MAP Google map). Prince Gong was the Prince Regent under the Empress Dowager Cixi, and ran the Qing dynasty’s foreign ministry. His was the finest lakeside residence in Beijing in the 19th century. 左转进入胡同，然后右转进入柳荫街，再左转进入大翔凤胡同，沿着恭王府（MAP Google 地图）高耸的灰色砖墙后墙走。恭亲王是慈禧太后摄政时期的摄政王，掌管清朝的外交部。他的府邸是 19 世纪北京最精美的湖畔住宅。
6 Hutong Hopping 6 胡同漫游
Now the hutong fun begins: turn right (still following the big wall) into Zhanzi Hutong, bear left, but then go straight on as the hutong bears right, and turn right at the very end into the narrowest of alleys. Wind your way down this alley, before taking the first left onto Dongmeichang Hutong. Bear left, then right, then turn left at the hutong crossroads onto Qianjing 胡同的乐趣现在开始了：右转（仍然沿着大墙）进入毡子胡同，向左转，然后在胡同向右转时直行，最后右转进入最窄的小巷。沿着这条小巷蜿蜒前行，然后在第一个路口左转进入东煤厂胡同。向左转，然后向右转，接着在胡同的十字路口左转进入前井胡同。
Hutong, following it back to the lake. 胡同，沿着它回到湖边。
EXPERIENCES 体验
The Home of Song Qingling 宋庆龄故居
MAP
As Mao Zedong once quipped，the influential Charlie Soong had three daughters：one loved money（Ailing），one loved power（Meiling），but only Qingling loved her country．Song Qingling（1893－1981）grew up in Shanghai，went to university in the US，married exiled revolutionary Sun Yatsen in Japan，and played an instrumental role in the communist government．She often represented China abroad and，after Mao＇s death，held several senior leadership positions．Her residence（宋庆龄故居，Sòng Qìnglíng Gùjū； 46 Houhai Beiyan，后海北沿46号）is set in the gardens of the former mansion of Prince Chun．The highlight is a two－storey side hall that presents a chronological exhibit of her life，as seen through photos，letters and personal items，including her 1950s ZIS sedan－a gift from Joseph Stalin．Also worth checking out is the main residence；four of the rooms are open to the public． 正如毛泽东曾经打趣的那样，有影响力的查理·宋有三个女儿：一个爱钱（霭龄），一个爱权（美龄），但只有庆龄爱她的国家。宋庆龄（1893－1981）在上海长大，在美国上大学，在日本与流亡的革命家孙中山结婚，并在共产党政府中发挥了重要作用。她经常代表中国出访国外，在毛泽东去世后，担任了多个高级领导职务。她的故居（宋庆龄故居，Sòng Qìnglíng Gùjū；后海北沿 46 号）坐落于前醇亲王府的花园中。亮点是一座两层楼的侧厅，通过照片、信件和个人物品，按时间顺序展示了她的生平，包括她 1950 年代的 ZIS 轿车——这是约瑟夫·斯大林的礼物。主宅也值得一看；其中四个房间对公众开放
Dream of the Red Chamber 《红楼梦》
HISTORIC BUILDING 历史建筑
MAP
Reputed to be the model for Chinese writer Cao Xueqin＇s 18th－century literary masterpiece Dream of the Red Chamber，this sprawling residence is one of Beijing＇s largest traditional mansions（恭王府，Gōng Wángfǔ； 17 Qianhai Xijie，前海西街17号）．Little wonder that it was once owned by Prince Gong（1833－98），half－brother of the Xianfeng Emperor．While there are plenty of courtyards to explore，it＇s most notable for its marvellous back gardens，which feature artificial hills，ponds，rockeries，whimsical pavilions and even a Great Wall folly．Be warned that it is often wall－to－wall with tour groups，which can detract from the overall experience．Go early． 被誉为中国作家曹雪芹 18 世纪文学巨著《红楼梦》的原型，这座广阔的宅邸是北京最大的传统府邸之一（恭王府，Gōng Wángfǔ；前海西街 17 号）。难怪它曾是咸丰皇帝同父异母的弟弟恭亲王（1833－98）的府邸。虽然有许多庭院可供探索，但最引人注目的是其令人惊叹的后花园，园内有人工山丘、池塘、假山、奇趣的亭台，甚至还有一段长城仿建。需要注意的是，这里常常挤满旅游团，可能会影响整体体验。建议早点前往
Find Your Match at the Fire God Temple 在火神庙寻找你的缘分
TAOIST TEMPLE
MAP GOOGLE MAP 地图 GOOGLE MAP
On the weekend，the otherwise unremarkable Fire God Temple（火德真君 周末，平时不起眼的火德真君庙（火德真君
庙，Huǒdé Zhēnjūn Miào； 77 Di＇anmenwai Dajie，地安门外大街77号）is one of the most popular temples in the capital．The main attraction is the adjacent side halls dedicated to a Fox Fairy（狐仙殿）and the Old Man under the Moon（月老殿），both of whom bestow blessings in the Marriage Department in the heavenly realms．On a busy day，you＇ll likely see long queues of young Chinese waiting to enter for their turn to pray and，hopefully，get a divine introduction to their perfect match． 庙，Huǒdé Zhēnjūn Miào；77 Di'anmenwai Dajie，地安门外大街 77 号）是首都最受欢迎的寺庙之一。主要景点是相邻的侧殿，分别供奉狐仙（狐仙殿）和月老（月老殿），两者都在天界的婚姻部门赐福。在繁忙的日子里，你可能会看到排着长队的中国年轻人等待进入，祈祷并希望能得到神灵的指引，找到他们的完美伴侣
The God of Wealth hall in the back is another popular stop for worshippers，while the main hall dedicated to the Fire God occasionally hosts Taoist musicians，who perform ritual music to accompany the various blessings． 后面的财神殿是信徒们另一个热门参拜点，而供奉火神的主殿偶尔会有道教音乐家表演仪式音乐，为各种祈福活动伴奏
There＇s been a Fire God Temple on this site since 632，but the current incarnation dates to 2007. 自 632 年起，此地就有一座火神庙，但现在的建筑建于 2007 年。
ZHONGNANHAI 中南海
The lakeside compound south of Beihai is known as Zhongnanhai，the modern－day Forbidden City where the senior cadres of the Chinese Communist Party（CCP）work and，in theory，reside．Understandably，if you unwittingly approach this area you will be quickly shooed away．Cashing in on Zhongnanhai＇s prestige is the cigarette brand of the same name，whose smokes were originally produced exclusively for Mao and other senior cadres．It＇s since become a popular choice among younger Chinese． 北海以南的湖畔建筑群被称为中南海，这里是中国共产党高级干部工作和理论上居住的现代“紫禁城”。可想而知，如果你无意中接近这个区域，会很快被赶走。利用中南海的声望，同名香烟品牌应运而生，这些香烟最初是专门为毛泽东和其他高级干部生产的。如今，它已成为中国年轻人中的热门选择
Nightlife at the Lake 湖畔夜生活
After dark，the Houhai Lakes scenic area around Silver Ingot Bridge morphs into a neon－lit nightlife zone．Most bars have live music，dice games，big－ screen mobile－phone gaming and KTV．In a bid to outcompete neighbouring venues，sound systems are often cranked up to 11：depending on your tastes， this is either great fun or a full－on sensory assault on your nervous system． 夜幕降临后，银锭桥周边的后海湖区摇身一变，成为霓虹闪烁的夜生活区。大多数酒吧都有现场音乐、骰子游戏、大屏幕手机游戏和 KTV。为了在竞争中胜过邻近的场所，音响系统通常开到最大：根据你的口味，这要么是极大的乐趣，要么是对神经系统的全面感官冲击
For a more sophisticated tipple，head to East Shore Jazz Bar（MAP） cooclemap；东岸爵士吧，Dōngàn Juéshì Bā；2nd fl， 2 Qianhai Nanyan，什刹海南沿2号楼2层；3pm to 1am Tuesday to Sunday）．Rock star Cui Jian＇s saxophonist opened this dark and moody upstairs den．It＇s a great place to 想要更精致的饮品，可以去东岸爵士吧（MAP；东岸爵士吧，Dōngàn Juéshì Bā；什刹海南沿 2 号楼 2 层；周二至周日，下午 3 点至凌晨 1 点）。摇滚明星崔健的萨克斯手开设了这家昏暗而富有情调的楼上酒吧。这是一个绝佳的场所
unwind to upright bass and saxophone solos and also has fantastic views out over the water．A small roof terrace opens in summer．Musicians perform Thursday to Sunday from 9pm． 在直立贝斯和萨克斯独奏中放松身心，还可以欣赏到绝佳的水景。夏天会开放一个小型屋顶露台。音乐家们每周四至周日晚 9 点开始表演
For a simple beer without the open mic，try the two－floor Slowboat Brewery（MAP GOocle MAP；悠航鲜啤，Yōuháng Xiānpí；Bldg 2，Hehua Market，Shangye Jie，荷花市场内商业街2幢），which has 45 brews on tap and more great views of Qianhai Lake． 想要一杯简单的啤酒，而不需要开放麦，可以试试两层的 Slowboat Brewery（MAP GOocle MAP；悠航鲜啤，Yōuháng Xiānpí；Bldg 2，Hehua Market，Shangye Jie，荷花市场内商业街 2 幢），这里有 45 种啤酒可供选择，还能欣赏到前海湖的美景
ICE CAPADES
Winter fun at Houhai is wildly popular and not limited to ice skating. You can also hire ice trikes, their front wheels replaced with skis, and push-along ice sleds. Afterwards,it’s customary to eat tánghúlú (糖胡芦), candied hawthorn fruit on sticks. 后海的冬季乐趣非常受欢迎，不仅仅局限于滑冰。你还可以租用冰上三轮车，它们的前轮被滑雪板取代，以及推行的冰橇。之后，按照惯例要吃糖葫芦，即串在棍子上的糖葫芦果。
Uncover Beijing＇s History 揭开北京的历史
MAP GOOGLE MAP 地图 GOOGLE MAP
Behind the captivating facade of the Capital Museum（首都博物馆，Shǒudū Bówùguǎn；Fuxingmenwai Dajie，复兴门外大街16号）are intriguing galleries with a good overview of Beijing＇s history．Scale models，maps， multimedia displays and artefacts keep visitors engaged，and the English captions are helpful，though not always present．The best displays are on the 2nd and 3rd floors． 在首都博物馆（Shǒudū Bówùguǎn；复兴门外大街 16 号）引人入胜的外观背后，是展示北京历史概览的迷人展馆。比例模型、地图、多媒体展示和文物让游客沉浸其中，虽然英文说明并不总是存在，但它们非常有用。最佳展品位于二楼和三楼
The 2nd floor stretches from the Paleolithic（Peking Man）to the Liao（916－ 1125）and Jin（1115－1234）dynasties，when Beijing was under the control of the Khitan（nomads from the northern steppe）and the Jurchen（ancestors of the Manchus）respectively．The Jurchen were the first to make Beijing a capital city． 二楼展区从旧石器时代（北京人）延伸至辽（916－1125）和金（1115－1234）时期，当时北京分别处于契丹（来自北方草原的游牧民族）和女真（满族的祖先）的控制之下。女真人是第一个将北京设为首都的族群
The 3rd floor covers the Yuan，Ming and Qing dynasties，followed by the Republican era and the Japanese invasion．Other floors explore Beijing opera and folk customs as seen through seasonal festivals．Exhibits have a decent amount of information without being overwhelming．Plan on spending about two hours here． 三楼涵盖了元、明、清三个朝代，随后是民国时期和日本侵华时期。其他楼层则通过季节性节日来探索京剧和民俗。展览信息量适中，不会让人感到压力。预计在这里停留约两小时
To get here，take line 1 to Muxidi．It＇s closed on Mondays． 到这里可以乘坐 1 号线到木樨地。周一闭馆
Pilgrimage to a Tibetan Stupa 朝圣西藏佛塔
MAP GOOGLEMAP 地图 GOOGLEMAP
Originally built in 1271 under the reign of Kublai Khan，the serene Miaoying Temple（妙应寺白塔，Miàoyīng Sì Báitǎ； 171 Fuchengmennei Dajie，阜成门内大街171号）slumbers beneath its astonishingly high white dagoba，the tallest in China．A glimpse of it rising imperiously above surrounding hutong is one of the most emotive sights in Beijing．The dagoba was built on the site of an earlier temple by a Nepali architect，invited to Dadu（as Beijing was then known）by the Khan to cement the new dynasty＇s relations with Tibet． You can＇t enter it，but you can circle the base and explore the temple halls， the largest of which，the Hall of the Great Enlightened One，has a display of Buddhist statuary．The Hall of the Seven Buddhas houses scale models presenting the Yuan dynasty cities of Dadu（Beijing），Shangdu（＇Xanadu＇of Coleridge＇s famous poem）and Zhongdu，another Yuan－era city between the other two．The hutong to the north and east of the temple are well worth a stroll after your visit． 妙应寺白塔（Miàoyīng Sì Báitǎ；阜成门内大街 171 号）最初建于 1271 年忽必烈统治时期，静谧地沉睡在其令人惊叹的高大白塔之下，这是中国最高的白塔。瞥见它威严地耸立在周围的胡同之上，是北京最令人动容的景象之一。这座白塔由一位尼泊尔建筑师在早先寺庙的遗址上建造，这位建筑师是忽必烈邀请到大都（当时北京的称呼）以巩固新王朝与西藏的关系的。你无法进入白塔，但可以环绕其基座并探索寺庙殿堂，其中最大的大觉殿展示了佛教雕像。七佛殿则陈列了元大都（北京）、上都（柯勒律治著名诗中的“仙那度”）和中都（位于两者之间的另一座元朝城市）的模型。寺庙北面和东面的胡同在参观后非常值得一游
Xicheng Temple Tour 西城寺庙之旅
Beijing＇s quirkiest historic temples are in Xicheng，west of Beihai Park．If you＇re already headed to Miaoying Temple，it might be worth tracking down these two other gems． 北京最奇特的历史寺庙位于北海公园以西的西城区。如果你已经前往妙应寺，不妨也去探寻这两座瑰宝
The unusual Temple of Ancient Monarchs（MAP GOocle MAP；历代帝王庙，Lìdài Dìwáng Miào； 131 Fuchengmennei Dajie，阜成门内大街131号） was constructed in 1530 ，and is where emperors would come to honour their royal predecessors，dating all the way back into the mists of antiquity．There were originally 188 spirit tablets on display in the massive Jingde Chongsheng Palace． 不寻常的历代帝王庙（MAP GOocle MAP；Lìdài Dìwáng Miào；阜成门内大街 131 号）建于 1530 年，是皇帝们前来祭拜他们皇室先人的地方，其历史可追溯至远古时代。巨大的景德崇圣殿内原本陈列着 188 块灵位
For a more intimate experience，visit the forgotten Wansong Laoren Pagoda（MAP GOOcle MAP；万松老人塔，Wàn Sōng Lǎorén Tǎ； 43 Xisi Nandajie，西四南大街43号）．Dating to the Mongol Yuan dynasty，this nine－ 想要更亲密的体验，可以参观被遗忘的万松老人塔（MAP GOOcle MAP；万松老人塔，Wàn Sōng Lǎorén Tǎ； 43 Xisi Nandajie，西四南大街 43 号）。这座九层塔的历史可以追溯到蒙古元朝
tiered brick pagoda sits in a lovely walled garden of pomegranate trees and grapevines, with a hotch-potch of historical hutong timber frames and stone carvings scattered about. A bookshop sells old postcards and pots of jasmine tea. 阶梯式的砖塔坐落在一个美丽的围墙花园中，园内种满了石榴树和葡萄藤，四周散落着历史悠久的胡同木框架和石雕。一家书店出售旧明信片和茉莉花茶壶。
An old－timer that＇s been around since 1567，when it used to be a winehouse．Bustling local atmosphere and Shandong fare．172－178 Xinjiekou Dajie，新街口南大街172－178号 一家自 1567 年就存在的老店，最初是一家酒馆。这里有着热闹的本地氛围和山东菜。地址：新街口南大街 172－178 号
Royal Icehouse 皇家冰窒小院 quad¥¥\quad ¥ ¥ 皇家冰窒小院 Royal Icehouse quad¥¥\quad ¥ ¥
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This intriguing restaurant was once a royal refrigerator，its arched stone cellars built to store oversized ice cubes cut from Beihai Lake． 5 Gongjian Wuxiang，Gongjian Hutong，恭俭胡同5巷5号 这家有趣的餐厅曾是皇家冰窖，其拱形石窖用于储存从北海切割而来的大冰块。恭俭胡同 5 巷 5 号
Mǔmén Jiā Shuànròu 姆们家涮肉 ¥¥¥ ¥ 姆们家涮肉 ¥¥¥ ¥
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This old Beijing－style lamb hotpot hits the spot．Next to Shichahai subway station（Exit A1）．2nd fl， 31 Di＇anmenwai Dajie，地安门外大街31号二层 这家老北京风味的羊肉火锅非常地道。位于什刹海地铁站（A1 出口）旁，地安门外大街 31 号二层
This insanely stylish Hunan spice fest is one of the capital＇s best modern Chinese dining experiences． 49 Gongmenkou Toutiao，宫门口头条49号 这家极具风格的湘菜盛宴是首都最佳现代中餐体验之一。宫门口头条 49 号
Fork by TRB 福客牛排 ¥¥¥¥ ¥ ¥ 福客牛排 ¥¥¥¥ ¥ ¥
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Upscale fusion tucked away in a hotel compound on Houhai＇s southern shores．Blossom House， 9 Yangfang Hutong，羊房胡同9号花间堂后海酒店 高档融合餐厅隐匿于后海南岸的酒店院内。Blossom House，9 Yangfang Hutong，羊房胡同 9 号花间堂后海酒店
Street Food 街头小吃
Yā’er Lǐji 鸦儿李记 ¥¥ 鸦儿李记 ¥¥
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For proper Hui Muslim eats，sniff out this venerable establishment in a hutong north of Houhai Lake．Two other Lijil are nearby；this is the one you want．Ya＇er Hutong，鸦儿胡同（烟袋斜街西口） 要吃正宗的回民美食，就去后海北边胡同里的这家老字号。附近还有两家李记，但这家才是你要找的。鸦儿胡同（烟袋斜街西口）
Royal Palace Crisp Beef Pies 宫廷香酥牛肉饼 ¥¥ 皇家宫廷香酥牛肉饼 宫廷香酥牛肉饼 ¥¥
A baroque three－storey cafe that＇s a late－Qing gem． 101 Xi＇anmen Dajie，西安门大街101 一座巴洛克风格的三层咖啡馆，是晚清时期的瑰宝。西安门大街 101 号
Pagoda Light Cafe
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Popular rooftop cafe with a side order of eye candy：the towering white dagoba next door．Pagoda Light Hotel， 185 Fuchengmennei 受欢迎的屋顶咖啡馆，旁边还有视觉盛宴：隔壁高耸的白塔。Pagoda Light Hotel，阜成门内大街 185 号
Dajie，阜成门内大街 185 号，白塔之光酒店
Tangren Teahouse 唐人茶馆
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Commanding fine views across Qianhai Lake from its rooftop terrace，this teahouse is away from the noisier bars．Prices are high but the location，service and ambience compensate for this．前海南沿15号 这家茶馆从屋顶露台可以俯瞰前海湖的美景，远离喧嚣的酒吧。价格虽高，但地理位置、服务和氛围弥补了这一点。前海南沿 15 号
Explore 探索
Dashilar \＆Xicheng South 大栅栏 \＆西城南
Like many ancient Chinese capitals，Beijing was originally divided into an Inner City and Outer City，and it was at Qianmen（the Front Gate） that those two worlds met．Just beyond Qianmen was the bustling commercial district of Dashilar（大栅栏儿）filled with artisans，peddlers and an endless array of travellers．Dashilar was also an entertainment district known for theatres and more illicit pleasures，a tradition that continued well into the Republican era．Today，the shopping streets of Dashilar and nearby Liulichang are the best areas for browsing traditional Chinese goods like silk and tea，and catching a Peking opera performance． 与许多中国古代都城一样，北京最初被划分为内城和外城，而这两界在正阳门（前门）交汇。正阳门外便是繁华的商业区大栅栏，这里云集了工匠、商贩和络绎不绝的旅人。大栅栏还是以戏院和更多隐秘享乐著称的娱乐区，这一传统一直延续到民国时期。如今，大栅栏和附近的琉璃厂的购物街是浏览丝绸、茶叶等中国传统商品以及欣赏京剧表演的最佳区域
During the Qing dynasty, only the Manchu were permitted to live inside the Inner City walls. Dashilar was just beyond the main gate and part of the Outer (Chinese) City, a bustling area of commerce and entertainment. Despite being thoroughly scrubbed by the communists, the area’s crooked alleys have recovered their mojo. 清朝时期，只有满人被允许居住在内城城墙之内。大栅栏位于主城门外，是外城（汉人区）的一部分，是一个繁华的商业和娱乐区域。尽管被共产党彻底改造过，该地区弯曲的胡同已经恢复了昔日的活力。
START 开始
Qianmen Dajie Arch 前门大街牌楼
END
Liulichang Xijie 琉璃厂西街
LENGTH 长度
2.5km;1½2.5 \mathrm{~km} ; 1 ½ hours 2.5km;1½2.5 \mathrm{~km} ; 1 ½ 小时
1 The Front Gate 1 前门
In imperial times, the entrances to different neighbourhoods in Chinese cities were marked with a wooden páilóu (牌楼), or decorative archway, a vestige of the Tang dynasty when each city ward had a gate that was closed at night (in fact, Beijing’s hutong continued to be gated off at night through the Qing dynasty). 在帝国时代，中国城市中不同街区的入口都以木制牌楼（páilóu）或装饰性拱门为标志，这是唐朝遗留下来的习俗，当时每个城市街区都有一个在夜间关闭的门（事实上，北京的胡同在清朝时期仍然在夜间关闭）。
Few páilóu have survived into the present day, but in some places they have been rebuilt, as is the case at the pedestrian Qianmen Dajie shopping street. 少数牌楼幸存至今，但在一些地方它们已被重建，如前门大街步行购物街就是如此。
2 Silk Shop 2 丝绸店
Walk a few blocks down Qianmen, then turn right onto the busy cross street of Dashilar (also pronounced ‘Dazhalan’). On your right at No 5 is Ruifuxiang Silk, East China’s esteemed silk-clothing merchants, who have been trading here since 1893, and stitched the flag that was raised aloft at Tiananmen in 1949 when Mao proclaimed the founding of the PRC. 沿着前门大街走几个街区，然后右转进入繁忙的大栅栏（也发音为‘Dazhalan’）横街。在你的右侧 5 号是瑞蚨祥绸缎庄，华东地区著名的丝绸服装商，自 1893 年起就在这里经营，并在 1949 年毛泽东宣布中华人民共和国成立时，在天安门广场上升起的旗帜就是由他们缝制的。
3 Historic Cinema 3 历史电影院
At No 24 is Tongrentang, a former royal dispensary that still peddles traditional Chinese prescriptions. The first film in China was screened at No 36, Daguanlou Cinema, back in 1905. You can still catch a flick in the same spot, although the cinema was largely rebuilt in 2005. 24 号是同仁堂，曾为皇家药房，至今仍售卖传统中药方。1905 年，中国首部电影在大观楼影院（36 号）放映。如今你仍可在同一地点观影，尽管影院在 2005 年进行了大规模重建。
4 Pottery Shards and Jewellery 4 陶器碎片与珠宝
Cross Meishi Jie, turn right and enter the first alleyway on your left, Yangmeizhu Xiejie, a former printing street once home to author Lu Xun. The Caicifang Porcelain Workshop at No 35 upcycles shards of porcelain vases smashed during the Cultural Revolution into unique souvenirs. 穿过煤市街，右转进入左边的第一条胡同——杨梅竹斜街，这里曾是作家鲁迅居住过的印刷街。位于 35 号的彩瓷坊陶艺工作室，将文革期间被砸碎的瓷瓶碎片重新利用，制作成独特的纪念品。
5 Postcards from the Past 5 来自过去的明信片
Further along at No 97 , pop in for a chat with the history buffs at Beijing Postcards, who have a wealth of info on the area, displays of old Beijing maps and photographs and some cool souvenirs. 再往前走，到 97 号，进去与《Beijing Postcards》的历史爱好者们聊聊天，他们拥有丰富的地区信息、老北京地图和照片的展示，还有一些很酷的纪念品。
6 Art & Antiques 6 艺术与古董
Where the alleyway forks, bear right, right again and then first left (west) on to Liulichang Culture Street. A long strip of art stores, antiques and booksellers, Liulichang began attracting scholars during the Ming dynasty, and became a favourite destination for out-of-town students who came to the capital to take the imperial exams. 在胡同分叉处，向右转，再向右转，然后在第一个路口左转（向西）进入琉璃厂文化街。这条长长的街道上布满了艺术品店、古董店和书店，琉璃厂自明代起就吸引了众多学者，并成为前来京城参加科举考试的异地学子们喜爱的去处。
EXPERIENCES 体验
Walking Tours with Beijing Postcards 与北京明信片一起的步行游览
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The capital＇s best purveyor of history tours in English，Beijing Postcards （bjpostcards．com； 97 Yangmeizhu Xijie，杨梅竹斜街97号）hosts a range of rigorously researched walks led by Danish co－founder Lars．The best of the bunch are the History of the Hutong and the Crash Course to the Forbidden City，both of which open a doorway to a world that would be impossible to find．Make sure you book far in advance． 首都最佳的历史导览服务提供者，Beijing Postcards（bjpostcards.com；杨梅竹斜街 97 号）由丹麦联合创始人 Lars 带领，提供一系列深入研究的步行导览。其中最出色的是“胡同历史”和“故宫速成课程”，两者都打开了一扇通往难以寻觅的世界的大门。请确保提前预订
Several walks start and end at Beijing Postcards＇HQ in a Dashilar hutong， which doubles as a gallery and gift shop．As well as browsing photographs and images related to the latest historical research，you can purchase reprints of old city maps，and photographs and illustrations depicting a Beijing filled with imperial processions，camels and towering ramparts．Other great gifts include cushions，tote bags and calendars，all emblazoned with postcard images of old Beijing，collected by Lars and his co－founder，from markets and auctions both in China and overseas． 多条步行路线在北京大栅栏胡同的 Beijing Postcards 总部开始和结束，这里既是画廊也是礼品店。除了浏览与最新历史研究相关的照片和图像外，您还可以购买旧城地图的再版，以及描绘充满皇家游行、骆驼和高耸城墙的老北京的照片和插图。其他精美的礼品包括靠垫、手提袋和日历，所有这些都印有老北京的明信片图像，这些图像由 Lars 和他的联合创始人从中国和海外的市场和拍卖会上收集而来
Additional events，including the Historical Movie Night and Historical Book Club，are worth checking out． 其他活动，包括 Historical Movie Night 和 Historical Book Club，也值得一看
Despite its mystique, Peking opera (jīngjù, 京剧) is relatively easy to follow. Common themes include intrigues, disasters and rebellions, and many narratives have their source in the stock characters and legends of classical literature. Performers substitute elaborate sets for highly symbolic moves, gesture and facial expressions. A flick of a silk tassel indicates an actor riding a horse, while lifting a foot means going through a doorway. The undisputed king of Peking opera was Mei Lanfang. Mei, who died in 1961, made his name playing female roles and introduced the world to China’s most famous art form via overseas tours. 尽管充满神秘感，京剧（jīngjù, 京剧）相对容易理解。常见的主题包括阴谋、灾难和叛乱，许多叙事源于古典文学中的固定角色和传说。表演者用高度象征性的动作、手势和面部表情代替了复杂的布景。丝绸流苏的轻拂表示演员在骑马，而抬脚则意味着穿过门口。京剧无可争议的王者是梅兰芳。梅兰芳于 1961 年去世，他以扮演女性角色而闻名，并通过海外巡演将中国最著名的艺术形式介绍给世界。
Pray for Peace at Beijing＇s Oldest Building BUDDHIST PAGODA 在北京最古老的建筑佛教塔前祈祷和平
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Dating back to the days when the Khitan ruled Beijing，the pagoda in the little－visited Tianning Temple（天宁寺，Tiānníng Sì； 3 Tianningsi Qianjie，天宁寺前街甲 3 号）is not only the oldest religious structure in Beijing（c 1120），it＇s the most impressive．The octagonal tower stands at a neck－craning 57.8 m tall，and has 13 eaves and gorgeous bas－relief carvings running around the exterior．Southwest of the city centre，the temple is a bit of a hike from most places．The closest subway stop is Daguanying（lines 7 and 16）；it＇s easiest to take a taxi． 追溯到契丹统治北京的时代，鲜有人造访的天宁寺（天宁寺，Tiānníng Sì；天宁寺前街甲 3 号）中的佛塔不仅是北京最古老的宗教建筑（约 1120 年），也是最令人印象深刻的。这座八角形塔高达 57.8 米，有 13 层檐，外部环绕着精美的浮雕。寺庙位于市中心西南，从大多数地方前往都需步行一段距离。最近的地铁站是大观园站（7 号线和 16 号线）；乘坐出租车最为方便。
Tea Tasting at the Maliandao Market 在马连道市场品茶
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The Maliandao Tea Market（马连道茶城，Mǎliándào Cháchéng； 11 Maliandao Lu，马连道路11号）is a nondescript commercial centre home to， if not all the tea in China，then an awful lot of it．For those looking to venture beyond Beijing＇s favourite jasmine tea，it can be a fascinating，caffeine－ fuelled excursion．To get the most out of a trip，taste several teas．Just remember that you are expected to make a purchase afterwards．Tea is sold by the gram（kè，克）．The smallest amount you can buy is 50 grams ；an average purchase is 100 grams．The different types of tea on sale include green（lǜchá，绿茶），oolong（wūlóng，乌龙），black（hóngchá，红茶），pǔ’ěr （普洱）and jasmine（mòlihuā，茉莉花）． 马连道茶城（Maliandao Tea Market；马连道路 11 号）是一个不起眼的商业中心，虽然不是全中国的茶叶都集中在这里，但数量也相当可观。对于那些想要探索北京人最爱的茉莉花茶之外的选择的人来说，这里是一次充满咖啡因的迷人旅程。为了充分利用这次旅行，可以品尝几种茶。只需记住，品尝后通常需要购买。茶叶按克（kè）出售，最小购买量为 50 克，一般购买量为 100 克。出售的茶叶种类包括绿茶（lǜchá）、乌龙茶（wūlóng）、红茶（hóngchá）、普洱茶（pǔ’ěr）和茉莉花茶（mòlihuā）
A typical tasting involves sitting with your host（usually from Fujian province，where a lot of China＇s tea is grown）while they steep the tea multiple times and you enjoy thimble－sized cups together．To get the most out of the experience，bring along a Chinese speaker or sign up for a tea tour with the Hutong．You＇ll also find tea sets and accessories sold at cheaper prices than elsewhere．To get here，take subway line 7 to Wanzi． 典型的品茶体验包括与主人（通常来自福建省，那里是中国很多茶叶的产地）坐在一起，他们多次冲泡茶叶，而你则一起享用拇指大小的茶杯。为了充分体验，带上一名会说中文的人或报名参加胡同的茶艺之旅。你还会发现这里的茶具和配件比其他地方卖得更便宜。要到这里，可以乘坐地铁 7 号线到万子
THE KHITAN
Long before the Mongols and Manchus set up camp in Beijing，there were the Khitan，a nomadic people who conquered the part of northern China then known as the 16 Prefectures．Declaring their own Liao dynasty（907－1125），the Khitan incorporated elements of Chinese bureaucracy into their state，and developed not one but two writing systems（based on Chinese and Uyghur）．Eventually，China＇s Song government mistakenly allied with the Jurchen of Manchuria in an effort to reclaim their territory．The Jurchen responded by going on to defeat both the Khitan and the Chinese in one fell swoop．Their dynasty，the Jin（1115－1234），was the first to make Beijing a capital city． 早在蒙古人和满族人在北京安营扎寨之前，就有契丹人，一个征服了当时被称为十六州的华北地区的游牧民族。契丹人宣布建立自己的辽朝（907-1125），将中国官僚制度的元素融入他们的国家，并发展出不止一种而是两种文字系统（基于汉字和回鹘文）。最终，中国的宋朝政府错误地与满洲的女真结盟，试图收复失地。女真则一举击败了契丹和宋朝。他们的金朝（1115-1234）是第一个将北京定为都城的王朝
Carpentry \＆Construction in the Middle Kingdom museum 中王国木工与建筑博物馆
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More than just another imperial sacrificial site，the Ancient Architecture Museum（北京古代建筑博物馆，Běijīng Gǔdài Jiànzhù Bówùguǎn； 21 Dongjing Lu，东经路21号）is a compelling exploration of traditional Chinese building techniques．Examine a scale model of a temple construction site， compare the similarities of Chinese wood－working tools with those languishing in your own garage and dive into the regional differences in dougong（brackets），sunmao（joints）and courtyard homes from around the realm． 不仅仅是另一个皇家祭祀场所，北京古代建筑博物馆（Běijīng Gǔdài Jiànzhù Bówùguǎn；东经路 21 号）是对中国传统建筑技艺的深入探索。您可以观察寺庙建筑工地的比例模型，比较中国木工工具与您车库里闲置工具的相似之处，并深入了解全国各地的斗拱（brackets）、榫卯（joints）和四合院的地区差异
The museum is set in the former Temple of Agriculture，where the emperor was required to appear once a year during the Ming dynasty in order to plough a sacrificial field（he only had to plough three furrows，after which various ministers took over the task）． 博物馆坐落于昔日的先农坛，明朝时期，皇帝每年需在此出现一次，以耕犁一块祭祀田地（他只需犁三道沟，之后由众大臣接手完成）
It＇s closed on Mondays． 周一闭馆
Farewell My Concubine 《霸王别姬》
Historically home to dozens of theatres，the former pleasure district of Dashilar is still a good place to see a traditional opera． 历史上曾拥有数十家剧院的大栅栏前娱乐区，如今仍是观赏传统戏曲的好去处
One of the most authentic venues in town is the Huguang Guild Hall（ MAP GOOGLEMAP；湖广会馆，Húguǎng Huìguǎn； 3 Hufang Lu，虎坊路 3 号）， one of Beijing＇s few surviving huiguan（guild halls），which were ostensibly a home away from home for visiting provincial merchants and officials－in this case from Hubei and Hunan．Founded in 1807，it was converted to a theatre a few decades later．Operas play out on an elaborate canopied stage enclosed by balconies． 城里最地道的场所之一是湖广会馆（Huguang Guild Hall；湖广会馆，Húguǎng Huìguǎn；虎坊路 3 号），这是北京为数不多的幸存会馆之一，最初是为来自湖北和湖南的商人及官员提供一个远离家乡的家。它始建于 1807 年，几十年后被改造成剧院。戏曲在一个精心设计的带顶棚的舞台上上演，周围环绕着阳台
At the time of research，there was only one performance per week，on Saturdays at 2pm．Another traditional venue is the two－storey Zhengyici Theatre（MAP GOOGLEMAP；正乙祠戏楼，Zhèngyǐcí Xìlóu； 220 Qianmen Xiheyan，前门西河沿220号），originally dating to 1668 ．Only one performance was being staged a week，on Fridays at 7.30 pm ．For a more contemporary experience，try the Tianqiao Performing Arts Centre（MAP coocle MAP；天桥艺术中心，Tiānqiáo Yìshù Zhōngxīn； 9 Tianqiao Nandajie，天桥南大街9号），which has 1600 seats and a variety of daily performances． 调研期间，每周只有一场演出，时间为周六下午 2 点。另一个传统场地是两层的正乙祠戏楼（MAP GOOGLEMAP；正乙祠戏楼，Zhèngyǐcí Xìlóu； 220 Qianmen Xiheyan，前门西河沿 220 号），最初建于 1668 年。每周只有一场演出，时间为周五晚上 7:30。想要更现代的体验，可以尝试天桥艺术中心（MAP coocle MAP；天桥艺术中心，Tiānqiáo Yìshù Zhōngxīn； 9 Tianqiao Nandajie，天桥南大街 9 号），这里有 1600 个座位，每天都有各种演出。
Finally，note that while the Lao She Teahouse（老舍茶馆，Lăoshè Cháguǎn； 3 Qianmen Xidajie，前门西大街3号）sounds promising，the performances here are of low quality and not recommended． 最后，需要注意的是，虽然老舍茶馆（Lăoshè Cháguǎn；前门西大街 3 号）听起来很有吸引力，但这里的表演质量较低，不推荐
Contact for all theatres is via WeChat；there is no English． 所有剧院的联系方式均通过微信；没有英文服务
Beijing＇s Muslim Community 北京的穆斯林社区
MOSQUE 清真寺
MAP GOOGLE MAP 地图 GOOGLE MAP
Dating from the 10th century，Beijing＇s oldest mosque，Niu Jie（牛街礼拜寺， Niú Jiē Lǐbài Sì； 18 Niu Jie，牛街18号）is more like a Chinese temple with Islamic characteristics．Domes and minarets are conspi－cuously absent，but it does have a fine prayer hall serving the local community of Hui Chinese Muslims，who also run the many halal restaurants along Ox St（Niu Jie），such as Jùbǎoyuán． 始建于 10 世纪的北京最古老的清真寺牛街礼拜寺（牛街礼拜寺，Niú Jiē Lǐbài Sì；牛街 18 号）更像是一座具有伊斯兰特色的中国寺庙。这里没有明显的圆顶和尖塔，但确实有一座精美的礼拜堂，服务于当地的中国回族穆斯林社区，他们还在牛街经营着许多清真餐厅，比如聚宝源
Although the Hui are listed as an ethnic group（Beijing＇s largest），they are culturally close to the Han Chinese，unlike the Uyghurs，who speak a Turkic language．Hui origins in China can be traced back to Persian missionaries， and later to Islamic soldiers from Central Asia fighting for the Mongol Yuan dynasty that conquered China in 1279．The mosque is lively with worshippers on Fridays，although non－Muslims are forbidden to enter during prayer． 虽然回族被列为北京的少数民族（北京最大的少数民族），但他们在文化上与汉族相近，与说突厥语的维吾尔族不同。回族在中国的起源可以追溯到波斯传教士，后来则是来自中亚的伊斯兰士兵，他们为 1279 年征服中国的蒙古元朝而战。清真寺在星期五礼拜时非常热闹，尽管非穆斯林在祈祷期间禁止入内
Dress appropriately (no shorts or short skirts). Take subway line 7 to Guang’anmennei. 穿着得体（不要穿短裤或短裙）。乘坐地铁 7 号线到广安门内。
This seven－floor emporium，its 41 dining rooms bedecked in communist－chic decor，is the flagship of China＇s most famous roast－ duck brand． 14 Qianmen Xidajie，前门西大街14号楼 这座七层楼的餐饮大楼，拥有 41 间以共产主义风格装饰的餐厅，是中国最著名的烤鸭品牌的旗舰店。地址：前门西大街 14 号楼
A culinary destination across from Beijing＇s oldest mosque－queue for traditional lamb hotpot．5－2 Niu Jie，牛街5－2号 北京最古老的清真寺对面的美食目的地——排队品尝传统羊肉火锅。5-2 Niu Jie，牛街 5－2 号
Spicy wide－belt Shaanxi noodle specialists；look for 58－stroke biáng， one of the most complicated Chinese characters． 32 Dashilar Xijie，大栅栏西街32号 辣味宽腰带陕西面专家；寻找 58 画的“biáng”，这是最复杂的汉字之一。大栅栏西街 32 号
Deyuan Roast Duck 德缘烤鸭店 ¥ ¥
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Beijing＇s trinity of trad meats：Peking duck，roast lamb and donkey． Crack open a cold Yanjing beer and loosen your belt．Great value． 57 Dashilar Xijie，大栅栏西街57号 北京传统肉类三宝：北京烤鸭、烤羊肉和驴肉。打开一瓶冰镇燕京啤酒，松开你的腰带。物超所值。大栅栏西街 57 号
Drinking 喝酒
Cafes 咖啡馆
Soloist Coffee Co
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Once a public bathhouse，today this cafe is all industrial－chic decor and vintage furnishings；2nd－floor balcony，too． 39 Yangmeizhu Xiejie，杨梅竹斜街39号 这里曾经是一个公共澡堂，如今这家咖啡馆充满了工业风格的装饰和复古的家具；还有二楼阳台。39 Yangmeizhu Xiejie，杨梅竹斜街 39 号
Berry Beans
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Meticulously fussy coffee at a hutong gem，formerly a Republican era brothel．The tiny roof terrace offers voyeuristic views． 7 Zhujia 胡同里的一颗宝石，曾是民国时期的妓院，提供精心挑剔的咖啡。小小的屋顶露台可窥视风景。朱家 7 号
Hutong，朱家胡同7号 胡同，朱家胡同 7 号
Shopping 购物
Souvenirs 纪念品
Qiánkūn Kōngjiān 乾坤空间
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A bit hit or miss，this boutique is worth a browse for its old prints， maps，fabrics and stele rubbings． 26 Yangmeizhu Xiejie，杨梅竹斜街26号 这家精品店有点碰运气的感觉，但值得一逛，因为它有老版画、地图、布料和碑拓。26 Yangmeizhu Xiejie，杨梅竹斜街 26 号
Neiliansheng Shoe Shop
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Treat your feet to hand－stitched cloth shoes from this Beijing shop dating to 1853． 34 Dashilar Jie，大栅栏街34号 让您的双脚享受这家始于 1853 年的北京店铺的手工布鞋。34 Dashilar Jie，大栅栏街 34 号
Books 书籍
Page One 第 1 页
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Good selection of English－language novels and Lonely Planet guides at one of Beijing＇s best bookshops，a three－floor Singapore chain． Bldg E11，East Block，Beijing Fun，北京坊东区E11号楼 北京一家最佳书店的三层新加坡连锁店，精选英文小说和 Lonely Planet 指南。北京坊东区 E11 号楼
Róngbǎozhāi 荣宝斋
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Landscape paintings，calligraphy scrolls，woodblock prints and traditional art supplies． 19 Liulichang Xijie，琉璃厂西街19号 山水画、书法卷轴、木版画和传统美术用品。琉璃厂西街 19 号
Explore 探索
Sanlitun \＆Chaoyang 三里屯 \＆朝阳
Modern Beijing unfurls its feathers in Sanlitun（三里屯），the premier destination for shopping，posing and partying until dawn．Out east beyond the old city walls，Sanlitun belongs to Chaoyang（朝阳），a district low on sights but not lacking in luxury hotels，gourmet eats， audacious urban architecture and，further afield，contemporary art at the 798 Art District．If you want a sense of how China envisions its future，this is the place to come． 现代北京在三里屯展翅高飞，这里是购物、摆拍和彻夜狂欢的首选之地。位于老城墙以东的三里屯属于朝阳区，这里景点不多，但不乏豪华酒店、美食佳肴、大胆的城市建筑，以及更远处的 798 艺术区的当代艺术。如果你想了解中国如何展望未来，这里就是你要来的地方
Chaoyang district also hosts Beijing＇s ever－expanding central business district， 2.5 km south of Sanlitun，where competing neon－lit skyscrapers climb into the clouds，including China Zun，the 10th－tallest building in the world．It＇s a great place to feast on global eats，be served a meal by a robot or plan a night out． 朝阳区还拥有北京不断扩展的中央商务区，位于三里屯以南 2.5 公里处，那里霓虹闪烁的摩天大楼竞相攀入云端，其中包括世界第十高的建筑——中国尊。这里是享用全球美食、由机器人提供服务或计划夜晚外出的绝佳地点。
Getting Around 出行指南
(S) Line 1 (S) 第 1 行
Runs east-west from central Beijing; stops at Yong’anli (Silk St) and Guomao (CITIC Tower, Line 10). 从北京中心东西向运行；停靠永安里（丝绸街）和国贸（中信大厦，10 号线）。
(S) Line 3 (S) 第 3 行
Projected to open by the end of 2024, the east-west line 3 will connect Dongsi Shitiao (line 2) with Workers’ Stadium and Tuanjiehu (Taikoo Li). 预计于 2024 年底开通的东西向 3 号线将连接东四十条（2 号线）与工人体育场和团结湖（太古里）。
(S) Line 6 (S) 6 号线
Runs east-west from central Beijing; stops at Chaoyangmen (Dongyue Temple, Line 2) and Hujialou (Line 10). 从北京市中心东西向延伸；在朝阳门（东岳庙，2 号线）和呼家楼（10 号线）停靠。
(S) Line 10 (S) 10 号线
Runs north-south through the central business district; stops at Tuanjiehu (Taikoo Li), Guomao and Panjiayuan (Panjiayuan Market). 南北贯穿中央商务区；停靠团结湖（太古里）、国贸和潘家园（潘家园市场）。
23 Slowboat Brewery D4
24 Destination B4
Mei Bar (see 17)
25 Paddy O'Shea's B 2
26 Arrow Factory Brewing C 1
| 23 Slowboat Brewery | D4 |
| :--- | ---: |
| 24 Destination | B4 |
| Mei Bar | (see 17) |
| 25 Paddy O'Shea's | B 2 |
| 26 Arrow Factory Brewing | C 1 |
| | |
TOP EXPERIENCE 顶级体验
Panjiayuan Market 潘家园市场
A curio hunter’s heaven or an Everest of fakery? Panjiayuan is both, and marvellous fun to boot. Picking over the wares of some 3000 dealers, you won’t chance upon that priceless doucai stem cup, but you will find Mao busts, Little Red Books and faded cigarette posters. 潘家园既是古董猎人的天堂，也是赝品的珠穆朗玛峰，而且乐趣无穷。在 3000 多家商贩的货物中挑选，你可能不会偶然发现那件无价的斗彩高足杯，但你会找到毛主席像、小红本和褪色的香烟海报。
To get here，take subway line 10 to Panjiayuan，exit B，then head west on foot for 200 m to find the main entrance．It＇s a big place，so budget two to three hours．It＇s open 8．30am to 6pm Monday to Friday，from 4．30am Saturday and Sunday． 到达这里，可以乘坐地铁 10 号线到潘家园站，从 B 出口出站，然后向西步行 200 米即可找到主入口。这个地方很大，所以预算两到三个小时。开放时间为周一至周五上午 8:30 至下午 6 点，周六和周日从凌晨 4:30 开始
Communist Kitsch 共产主义媚俗
Panjiayuan（潘家园古玩市场，Pānjiāyuán Gǔwán Shìchǎng； 18 Huaweili，华威里18号）is the place to pick up Mao memorabilia like the Little Red Book，a collection of his quotations brandished and recited by millions of Red Guards during the Cultural Revolution．With patience，you＇ll likely turn up a few English－language editions． 潘家园古玩市场（Panjiayuan Guwan Shichang；华威里 18 号）是淘到毛泽东纪念品的地方，比如《毛主席语录》，这是文化大革命期间数百万红卫兵挥舞和背诵的语录集。有耐心的话，你很可能会找到几本英文版
You can also find great propaganda posters（＇Down with the American Imperialists！＇）and porcelain busts of the Great Helmsman among a variety of Mao pins and other Communist Party oddities． 你也可以找到很棒的宣传海报（“打倒美帝国主义！”）和伟大舵手的瓷像，以及各种毛泽东徽章和其他共产党的小玩意儿
Regardless of what you＇re buying，you can usually slash the initial asking price．Make a few rounds to compare prices before forking out，and bargain heartily．A good rule of thumb is to aim for a price based on how much you like the item，instead of whether or not it appears to be authentic． 无论你买什么，通常都可以砍掉最初的要价。在掏钱之前，多逛几圈比较价格，并大胆讨价还价。一个好的经验法则是根据你对物品的喜好程度来定价，而不是看它是否看起来是正品
Chinese Handicrafts 中国手工艺品
The market is a good place to look for Chinese calligraphy，scroll paintings， woodblock prints，seals and paper and inkstones．You can also buy replica Qing furniture，shards of smashed porcelain from earlier dynasties，and thread－your－own bead necklaces．Note that you have a better chance of finding genuine antiques across town at Liulichang Culture Street，but expect stratospheric prices for the real thing． 市场是寻找中国书法、卷轴画、木版画、印章以及纸墨砚台的好地方。你还可以购买仿制的清代家具、早期朝代破碎瓷器的碎片以及自己串珠的项链。需要注意的是，在城里的琉璃厂文化街找到真正古董的机会更大，但真品的价格会高得惊人
Ghost Market 鬼市
The market is at its biggest and best on weekends，starting well before dawn in the tradition of Qing dynasty guǐ shì（literally＇ghost markets＇）．Towards the beleaguered end of the dynasty，destitute nobles were forced to flog their family heirlooms and fineries，opting to do so under a face－saving veil of 周末的集市最为盛大热闹，秉承清朝鬼市的传统，天未亮便已开市。在清朝末年风雨飘摇之际，落魄的贵族们不得不变卖家族传世珍宝与华服，选择在夜幕的遮掩下进行交易，以保全颜面
darkness. The present market was installed here in the early 1990s. 黑暗。现在的市场是在 1990 年代初建在这里的。
The earlier you arrive for the Ghost Market, the more chance you’ll have of finding something unique. 鬼市越早到，找到独特物品的机会就越大。
TAKE A BREAK 休息一下
A few stalls selling noodles are located at the edges of the market; you’ll also find the usual international coffee chains. 市场边缘有几家卖面条的摊位；你还能找到常见的国际咖啡连锁店。
TOP EXPERIENCE 顶级体验
798 Art District 798 艺术区
The 798 Art District is an enclave of art galleries installed within a former 1950s factory complex. In the early noughties, Chinese artists turned the empty workshops into light-filled studios and saved it from destruction. 798 lost several major galleries during the pandemic, but is still worth exploring. 798 艺术区是一个由 20 世纪 50 年代工厂建筑群改造而成的艺术画廊聚集地。在 21 世纪初，中国艺术家将这些空置的车间改造成充满光线的工作室，使其免于被拆除的命运。疫情期间，798 失去了几家主要画廊，但仍然值得探索。
To get here，take subway line 14 to Wangjingnan，from where it＇s a 1.5 km walk or a short cab ride to the south entrance．Most galleries are closed on Mondays． 要到达这里，可以乘坐地铁 14 号线到望京南站，然后步行 1.5 公里或乘坐短途出租车到南入口。大多数画廊在周一关闭。
Scan the QR code to access UCCA＇s website to see a list of the 扫描二维码访问 UCCA 官网查看
current exhibitions 当前展览
Orientation 方位
The 798 Art District（798 艺术区，Qī Jiǔ Bā Yìshù Qū；cnr Jiuxianqiao Lu \＆ 798 Lu ，酒仙桥路 798 路的路口）is an impressively large complex，making it hard for first－time visitors to know where to start．The best way to orient yourself is to find the UCCA gallery in the centre；from here，the core block where most of the other big galleries are located extends to the north． Wherever you go，keep an eye out for murals，graffiti，stencils，sculpture－ 798 is a vibrant playground of public art and installations． 798 艺术区（798 Art District，Qī Jiǔ Bā Yìshù Qū；cnr Jiuxianqiao Lu & 798 Lu，酒仙桥路 798 路的路口）是一个令人印象深刻的大型综合体，初次来访的游客往往不知从何开始。最好的定位方法是找到位于中心的 UCCA 画廊；从这里开始，其他大部分大型画廊所在的核心区域向北延伸。无论你走到哪里，都要留意壁画、涂鸦、模板印刷和雕塑——798 是一个充满活力的公共艺术和装置艺术的游乐场
Architecture 建筑
The＇ 718 Joint Factory＇，as 798 was originally known，was the gold standard of Communist industrial might in China from 1957 when it was built using materials imported from East Germany via the Trans－Siberian Railway all the way into the factory itself．Preservation orders saved the old factory station， tracks and a steam loco，along with giant industrial chimneys，workers＇ dorms and，most importantly，the light－filled Bauhaus factories and workshops．The scale of it all is bewildering，and it looks something like the ultimate steampunk movie set．For an elevated overview of this surviving slice of 1950s industrial China，walk the length of D－Park Walkway in the east of the complex． “718 联合工厂”，即 798 的前身，自 1957 年建成以来，作为共产中国工业力量的黄金标准，其建筑材料通过跨西伯利亚铁路从东德进口，直接运抵工厂内部。保护令挽救了老工厂的站台、铁轨、一台蒸汽机车，以及巨大的工业烟囱、工人宿舍，最重要的是，那些充满光线的包豪斯风格工厂和车间。这一切的规模令人惊叹，仿佛终极蒸汽朋克电影场景。为了俯瞰这片保存下来的 1950 年代中国工业遗迹，可以沿着园区东侧的 D-Park 步行道漫步
Galleries
Expect to pay an admission fee of around ¥60¥ 60 for most of the big galleries． 大多数大型美术馆的入场费大约为 ¥60¥ 60
UCCA
Remodelled in 2019，UCCA（Ullens Center for Contemporary Art；尤伦斯当代艺术中心，Yóulúnsī Dāngdài Yìshù Zhōngxīn）remains the finest contemporary－art gallery in 798．Many global art superstars have made their China debuts here since it opened in 2007，and the gallery continues to stage boundary－pushing exhibitions－sometimes several at once，for which there is always an admission fee．UCCA was established by Belgian art collectors， who had purportedly amassed the world＇s largest collection of Chinese contemporary art．The couple sold the gallery to a group of Chinese investors in 2017 who，to the relief of the art world，opted to continue it as a nonprofit enterprise． 2019 年翻新后，UCCA（Ullens Center for Contemporary Art；尤伦斯当代艺术中心，Yóulúnsī Dāngdài Yìshù Zhōngxīn）依然是 798 艺术区最顶尖的当代艺术画廊。自 2007 年开业以来，许多全球艺术巨星在这里完成了他们的中国首秀，画廊持续举办突破界限的展览——有时同时举办多个，入场通常需要付费。UCCA 由比利时艺术收藏家创立，据称他们曾拥有世界上最大的中国当代艺术收藏。2017 年，这对夫妇将画廊卖给了一群中国投资者，令艺术界欣慰的是，新主人选择将其继续作为非营利机构运营
QUICK BREAK 快速休息
For a proper meal，stop by the Sichuanese Feed Factory（吃厂，Chī Chǎng）in the north of the complex．Otherwise，you＇re never far from a cafe here． 想要享用一顿正餐，可以去园区北部的 Sichuanese Feed Factory（吃厂，Chī Chǎng）。否则，在这里你随时都能找到咖啡馆
BAUHAUS 包豪斯
A German modernist movement，Bauhaus architecture dictated that form should follow function．Communist regimes embraced elements of Bauhaus，particu－larly the emphasis on simplicity and inexpensive materials，but tended to ignore its aesthetic considerations． 德国现代主义运动，包豪斯建筑主张形式应追随功能。共产主义政权采纳了包豪斯的元素，特别是对简洁和廉价材料的强调，但往往忽视了其美学考量
Long March Space 长征空间
A champion of emerging artists and the Chinese art scene generally since 新兴艺术家和中国艺术界的冠军，自
2002，Long March Space（长征空间，Chángzhēng Kōngjiān）is one of 798＇s premier galleries for contemporary Chinese painting，sculpture and video installations． 2002 年，Long March Space（长征空间，Chángzhēng Kōngjiān）是 798 艺术区首屈一指的当代绘画、雕塑和视频装置艺术画廊
M Woods Art Museum M Woods 美术馆
Founded by Chinese art collectors in 2014，M Woods（木木美术馆，Mùmù Měishùguǎn）stages meticulously curated，themed art shows according to the gallery＇s founding principle of＇FAT＇（Free，Alchemical，Timeless）－ meaning that anything goes in terms of blending styles，genres and eras．The space is a thrilling maze of former factory spaces big and small over multiple floors． M Woods（木木美术馆）由中国的艺术收藏家于 2014 年创立，根据美术馆的创立原则“FAT”（自由、炼金术、永恒），精心策划并举办主题艺术展览，意味着在融合风格、流派和时代方面没有任何限制。这个空间是一个令人兴奋的迷宫，由多个楼层的前工厂空间组成，大小不一
BTAP
Associated with the Tokyo Gallery in Japan，BTAP（Beijing Tokyo Art Projects；东京画廊，Dōngjīng Huàláng）was the first international gallery to lease space in 798 back in 2002．Since then，this modest Bauhaus factory workshop has staged the works of many a rising Chinese artist．Note the old Communist slogan on the brick wall across from the gallery：＇Uphold Mao Zedong thought＇． 与日本的东京画廊相关联，BTAP（北京东京艺术项目；东京画廊，Dōngjīng Huàláng）是 2002 年第一个在 798 租用空间的国际画廊。从那时起，这个朴素的包豪斯工厂车间已经展出了许多中国新锐艺术家的作品。请注意画廊对面砖墙上的旧共产主义标语：“坚持毛泽东思想”
Mansudae Art Studio
An incongruous outpost of the Hermit Kingdom，Mansudae（万寿台创作社， Wànshòutái Chuàngzuò Shè）exhibits socialist－realist paintings and sculptures depicting soot－faced miners，chiselled soldiers and the lyrical landscapes of North Korea．The works are created by the official government studio in Pyongyang，responsible for all the public art and statuary in the country．You can also buy genuine DPRK souvenirs，including commemorative stamps and propaganda magazines with shiny tractors on the cover． 作为隐士王国（朝鲜）的一个不协调前哨，万寿台创作社（Mansudae）展示了社会主义现实主义绘画和雕塑，描绘了满面煤灰的矿工、轮廓分明的士兵以及朝鲜的抒情风景。这些作品由平壤的官方政府工作室创作，负责全国所有的公共艺术和雕像。你还可以购买到正宗的朝鲜纪念品，包括纪念邮票和封面印有闪亮拖拉机的宣传杂志
DE FACTTO DE FACTO
Across from BTAP is De Factto（其实文化，Qíshí Wénhuà），a vinyl record shop，cafe and jazz venue．check out its WeChat account （defactto）for concert times． BTAP 对面是 De Factto（其实文化，Qíshí Wénhuà），一家黑胶唱片店、咖啡馆和爵士乐场地。查看其微信公众号（defactto）了解演出时间
EXPERIENCES 体验
See \＆Be Seen at Taikoo Li 在 Taikoo Li 见与被见
MAP GOOGLEMAP 地图 GOOGLEMAP
Beijing＇s premier destination for haute couture and urbane dining，Taikoo Li （三里屯太古里，Sānlǐtún Tàigǔľ̌； 19 Sanlitun Lu，三里屯路19号）is where the fashionistas go to splash the cash．An open－air mall complex either side of Opposite House hotel，Taikoo Li North is the better－bred half，carrying luxe labels such as Alexander McQueen，Canada Goose and Korea＇s Gentle Monster eyewear，while down south is Apple，Adidas and most restaurants， the best of which have top－floor alfresco terrace seating． 北京高端时尚和都市餐饮的首选目的地，三里屯太古里（Taikoo Li，三里屯路 19 号）是时尚达人们挥金如土的地方。这个位于瑜舍酒店两侧的露天购物中心，北区更为高端，拥有 Alexander McQueen、Canada Goose 和韩国的 Gentle Monster 眼镜等奢侈品牌，而南区则有 Apple、Adidas 和大多数餐厅，其中最好的餐厅还设有顶层的露天露台座位
The Underground Music Scene 地下音乐场景
LIVE MUSIC 现场音乐
In the Russian district of south Chaoyang are two of Beijing＇s longest－ running music clubs：Dada and DDC．Both relocated from central Beijing in 2021，escaping the strict zoning laws and steep rents of the central hutong，to the abandoned basement of a grungy post－apocalyptic building． 在朝阳区南部的俄罗斯区，有北京两家历史最悠久的音乐俱乐部：Dada 和 DDC。这两家俱乐部于 2021 年从北京市中心迁出，避开了严格的区域法规和高昂的胡同租金，搬到了一座破旧的后启示录风格建筑的地下室
DADA（MAP Googlemap；＠dadabarbeijing；B1，Block A，Ritan International Trade Center，日坛国际贸易中心A座北门B1，南营房胡同）， accessed via the building＇s northwest entrance，is one of Beijing＇s premier venues for esoteric，bass－heavy beats，while remaining unpretentious and divey enough for the casual partygoer．By combining an imaginative lineup of DJs at weekends with its new industrial setting，Dada gets the underground party vibe spot on． DADA（地图 Googlemap；@dadabarbeijing；B1，日坛国际贸易中心 A 座北门 B1，南营房胡同），通过建筑的西北入口进入，是北京顶级的深奥、重低音节奏的场所之一，同时保持低调和随意，适合休闲派对爱好者。通过周末富有创意的 DJ 阵容与全新的工业环境相结合，Dada 完美地捕捉了地下派对的氛围
In the same underground complex on the northeast side is DDC（MAP Goocle MAP Dusk Dawn Club；＠ddc＿duskdawnclub；黄昏黎明俱乐部， Huánghūn Límíng Jùlèbù；B1， 39 Shenlu Jie，神路街39号地下一层），a good place to catch small and mid－sized bands，from post－rock noise outfits to folk strummers，both Chinese and international．It has a capacity of 700，and has a similar bomb－shelter aesthetic． 在东北侧的同一地下综合体中，是 DDC（MAP Goocle MAP Dusk Dawn Club；＠ddc＿duskdawnclub；黄昏黎明俱乐部， Huánghūn Límíng Jùlèbù；B1， 39 Shenlu Jie，神路街 39 号地下一层），一个欣赏中小型乐队的好地方，从后摇滚噪音乐队到民谣弹唱者，无论是中国还是国际的都有。它的容量为 700 人，并具有类似的防空洞美学风格
Check the Instagram accounts for both venues for the schedules． 查看两个场地的 Instagram 账号以获取日程安排
BLIND MASSAGE 盲人按摩
The general idea behind Chinese massage（tuīná；推拿）is that it stimulates the qi（energy）that flows along the body＇s meridians or pathways．Massage is not just about relieving tight muscles；it is also used to treat a variety of ailments．To receive a real－deal foot or body massage，consider a blind massage centre（search for 盲人按摩 on Dianping or Baidu Maps）．If it＇s candlelight，aromatherapy and soothing music you＇re after，try a popular spa chain such as Dragonfly（dragonfly．net．cn）or Bodhi（bodhi．com．cn）instead． 中医按摩（tuīná；推拿）的基本理念是刺激沿着身体经络或路径流动的气（能量）。按摩不仅仅是缓解肌肉紧张；它也被用来治疗各种疾病。要体验正宗的中式足疗或全身按摩，可以考虑盲人按摩中心（在点评或百度地图上搜索“盲人按摩”）。如果你追求的是烛光、芳香疗法和舒缓音乐，可以尝试像 Dragonfly（dragonfly.net.cn）或 Bodhi（bodhi.com.cn）这样的热门水疗连锁店
Clubbing in Chaoyang 朝阳区的夜店体验
Beijing＇s largest bling－centric dance clubs are located on the west side of the Workers＇Stadium，but for a more egalitarian night of dancing you＇ll have to venture into northern Chaoyang．Check out the Safehouse Collective （Bǎihuì；百会；baihui．live），a local resource for electronic music． 北京最大的以炫目为主题的舞厅位于工人体育场的西侧，但如果你想要一个更平等的夜晚舞会，你必须冒险进入朝阳区的北部。可以查看 Safehouse Collective（百会；baihui.live），这是一个本地的电子音乐资源
Zhao Dai（MAP GOOGLEMAP；＠zhaodaiclub；Zhāodàisuǒ，招待所；Genasi Bldg， 19 Xinyuanli Xilu；新源里西19号格纳斯大厦）is a reliable choice for techno，and has a large dance space north－east of Dongzhimen．Groundless Factory（MAP；＠groundlessfactory；Mòxūyǒu Gōngchǎng，莫须有工厂； iWork Cultural \＆Creative Park，beneath the Water Tower， 5 Zuigongfen，醉公坟甲 5 号，安家iWork文创，水塔下）has a warehouse space that can hold upwards of 1000 people and occasionally hosts big－name DJs．It＇s way out by the 5th Ring Rd，east of Chaoyang Park． Zhao Dai（MAP GOOGLEMAP；＠zhaodaiclub；Zhāodàisuǒ，招待所；Genasi Bldg，19 Xinyuanli Xilu；新源里西 19 号格纳斯大厦）是科技音乐爱好者的可靠选择，拥有一个位于东直门东北方向的大型舞池。Groundless Factory（MAP；＠groundlessfactory；Mòxūyǒu Gōngchǎng，莫须有工厂；iWork Cultural & Creative Park，beneath the Water Tower，5 Zuigongfen，醉公坟甲 5 号，安家 iWork 文创，水塔下）则拥有一个可容纳超过 1000 人的仓库空间，并偶尔邀请知名 DJ 演出。它位于朝阳公园以东，靠近五环路的偏远地带
Finally，there＇s Wigwam（MAP GOoclemAP；＠wigwam．live； 4 Jiangtai Shangye Jie，将台商业街4号），which features a rotation of local DJs with the occasional big international name in a more intimate space．It＇s near the 798 Art District． 最后是 Wigwam（地图 GOoclemAP；@wigwam.live；将台商业街 4 号），这里定期有本地 DJ 轮换演出，偶尔也会有国际大牌在更私密的空间表演。它靠近 798 艺术区
For a view of some of Beijing＇s landmark modern buildings－notably the CCTV Headquarters（aka Big Pants）and the city＇s tallest skyscraper，the CITIC Tower－head up to the 80th－floor bar，Atmosphere（云酷，Yúnkù； China World Summit Wing， 1 Jianguomenwai Dajie，建国门外大街1号北京国贸大酒店80层）．On top of the China World Tower，this is as high as you can get in Beijing．The lounge side has better views，while the bar side is a bit more rowdy with karaoke in the evenings．Expect to pay ¥68¥ 68 for a beer and ¥158¥ 158 for a glass of wine or a cocktail．There’s a food menu，too．It＇s open 2pm to 2am daily．Enter through the Shangri－La Hotel lobby，near the Guomao subway station． 要欣赏北京一些标志性现代建筑的景观——尤其是中央电视台总部大楼（俗称“大裤衩”）和北京最高的摩天大楼中信大厦（CITIC Tower）——可以前往位于 80 层的酒吧 Atmosphere（云酷；地址：建国门外大街 1 号北京国贸大酒店 80 层）。这里位于中国国际贸易中心大厦顶部，是北京能到达的最高点。休息区视野更佳，而酒吧区在晚上则更为热闹，提供卡拉 OK 服务。预计一杯啤酒的价格为 ¥68¥ 68 ，一杯葡萄酒或鸡尾酒的价格为 ¥158¥ 158 。此外还有食品菜单。营业时间为每天下午 2 点至凌晨 2 点。入口位于香格里拉酒店大堂附近，靠近国贸地铁站
Into the Mystic 进入神秘
TAOIST TEMPLE
MAP GOOGLEMAP 地图 GOOGLEMAP
Dedicated to Tai Shan，the eastern peak of China＇s five Taoist mountains，the morbid Dongyue Temple（东岳庙，Dōngyuè Miào； 141 Chaoyangmenwai Dajie，朝阳门外大街141号）is an unsettling，albeit fascinating place of worship．The unlit central halls evoke a gloomy yet genuine air of mysticism that＇s unlike any other shrine in Beijing． 东岳庙（Dongyue Temple；朝阳门外大街 141 号）是献给中国五大道教名山之一的东岳泰山的，这座阴森的庙宇虽令人不安，却也是个引人入胜的朝拜之地。未点亮的中央大厅散发出一种阴郁而真实的神秘气息，这是北京其他任何庙宇所无法比拟的
One of the highlights is the series of macabre dioramas representing various bureaucratic departments from the Taoist underworld．Inside，you can muse on life＇s finalities by examining the various displays，some 76 in total， depicting such scenes as the Department for Wandering Ghosts or the Department for Implementing 15 Kinds of Violent Death． 亮点之一是一系列描绘道教阴间各个官僚部门的恐怖立体模型。在里面，你可以通过观察各种展示来思考生命的终结，总共约 76 个，描绘了诸如游魂司或实施十五种暴死司等场景
TAOISM 道教
Taoism（道教；Dàojiào；literally，the teachings of the Way）is the hardest Chinese religion to grasp．A natural counterpoint to Confucian hierarchy and order，much of its religious culture derives from ancient animism and shamanism．In everyday life，Taoism served several purposes，including self－cultivation and the transformation of inner energy（qi）；the exorcism of evil spirits； 道教（Dàojiào；字面意思为“道的教诲”）是最难理解的中国宗教。作为儒家等级和秩序的自然对照，其宗教文化大多源自古代的泛灵论和萨满教。在日常生活中，道教有多种用途，包括自我修养和内在能量（气）的转化；驱除邪灵；
divination；and rituals that secured blessings from the gods．Chinese medicine，martial arts and technology were all greatly influenced by Taoist practices．Taoism initially drew from the teachings of ancient philosophers such as Laozi（who wrote the 道德经 or Dao De Jing） and Zhuangzi．However，Chinese scholars tend to differentiate between Taoist philosophy and religion． 占卜；以及确保神明赐福的仪式。中医、武术和科技都深受道教实践的影响。道教最初汲取了古代哲学家如老子（他撰写了《道德经》或《Dao De Jing》）和庄子的教诲。然而，中国学者倾向于区分道教哲学与宗教
Other parts of the temple are no less fascinating．Cavernous Daiyue Hall is consecrated to the God of Tai Shan，who sits inside，managing the 18 layers of hell．Visit during festival time，especially during Chinese New Year and the Mid－Autumn Festival，and you＇ll see the temple at its most vibrant． 寺庙的其他部分同样引人入胜。宏伟的岱岳殿供奉着泰山神，他端坐其中，掌管着十八层地狱。在节日期间，尤其是春节和中秋节时参观，你会看到寺庙最热闹的一面
The back halls have been turned into a folk customs museum，where visitors will find displays of objects ranging from millstones to lacquerware to kites to stage jewellery for actors． 后殿已被改造成民俗博物馆，游客可以在这里看到从磨石到漆器、风筝乃至演员舞台首饰等各种展品
See a Match at Workers＇Stadium 在工人体育场观看比赛
map goocle map 地图 Google 地图
One of Mao＇s＇10 Great Buildings＇erected in 1959 to mark a decade of the People＇s Republic of China，the Workers＇Stadium（工人体育场，Gōngrén Tǐyùchǎng；Gongrentiyu－chang Beilu，工人体育场北路）staged several Mass Games here during the early days，where thousands of athletes would move as one to spell out giant Chinese characters．The original building was demolished in 2020，making way for a new and improved Workers＇Stadium in 2023 with a capacity of 68,000 spectators． 作为毛泽东时代“十大建筑”之一，于 1959 年为庆祝中华人民共和国成立十周年而建的工人体育场（工人体育场，Gōngrén Tǐyùchǎng；工人体育场北路，Gongrentiyu-chang Beilu）在早期曾举办过多次大型团体操表演，成千上万的运动员齐步移动，拼出巨大的汉字。原建筑于 2020 年被拆除，为 2023 年新建的、可容纳 68,000 名观众的全新工人体育场让路
Football fans will relish the chance to see Guo＇an，Beijing＇s local team，in action．Average attendance for a Guo＇an home game is more than 40，000， and watching a match before hitting the Sanlitun bars and clubs guarantees a fun night out for football fans．It also gives everyone the opportunity to enhance their Chinese vocab with a few colourful local expressions！ 足球迷们会珍惜观看北京国安队比赛的机会。国安队主场比赛的平均观众人数超过 4 万，对于足球迷来说，在前往三里屯酒吧和俱乐部之前观看比赛，保证了一个有趣的夜晚。这也让每个人有机会通过一些丰富多彩的本地表达来提升自己的中文词汇！
The Chinese Super League has 16 teams；each team plays 30 matches between（roughly）March and November．International friendlies are also held at Workers＇Stadium．Ticket sales are announced on the club＇s WeChat 中超联赛有 16 支球队；每支球队在（大约）3 月至 11 月期间进行 30 场比赛。国际友谊赛也在工人体育场举行。门票销售信息在俱乐部的微信上公布
page and sold on Damai’s WeChat platform. 页面并在大麦的微信平台上出售。
Great－value Sichuan classics alive with the tongue tingle of huajiao （Sichuan peppercorns）at this reliable neighbourhood favourite． 7 Chunxiu Lu，春秀路7号 在这家可靠的社区热门餐厅，超值的四川经典菜肴搭配花椒的舌尖刺激感，令人回味无穷。7 Chunxiu Lu，春秀路 7 号
Baron Rozi Uyghur Restaurant 巴依老爷 ¥ 巴依老爷 ¥
MAP GOOGLEMAP 地图 GOOGLEMAP
Think faux－rococo，chan－deliers and a cavernous dining hall：a delightful setting in which to gorge on Xinjiang dapanji（spicy chicken stew）．Xinzhong Bldg，Gongrentiyuchang Beilu，工人体育场北路新中大厦 想象一下仿洛可可风格、枝形吊灯和一个宽敞的餐厅：一个享用新疆大盘鸡（辣味炖鸡）的绝佳环境。工人体育场北路新中大厦，Xinzhong Bldg, Gongrentiyuchang Beilu
Māmā de Wèidào 妈妈的味道 quad\quad ¥ 妈妈的味道 quad\quad ¥
MAP GOOGLEMAP 地图 GOOGLEMAP
Come to Mama＇s for the quiet setting and refined home cooking． From sweet－and－sour spare ribs to stir－fried eggs and tomatoes，you can＇t go wrong．2nd fl，T＋Mall，Nansanlitun Lu，南三里屯路通盛中心2楼 来 Mama＇s 享受宁静的环境和精致的家常菜。从糖醋排骨到西红柿炒蛋，你都不会出错。地址：南三里屯路通盛中心 2 楼，T＋Mall
Chua Lam＇s Dim Sum 蔡澜港式点心 quad¥!=\quad ¥ \neq Chua Lam's Dim Sum 蔡澜港式点心 quad¥!=\quad ¥ \neq
MAP GOOGLEMAP 地图 GOOGLEMAP
Hawthorn barbecued pork buns，crystal shrimp dumplings and other dim－sum delicacies at this casual Hong Kong diner．1st fl，T+T+ Mall， Nansanlitun Lu，南三里屯路通盛中心1楼 在这家随意的香港餐厅，您可以品尝到山楂叉烧包、水晶虾饺等点心美食。地址：南三里屯路通盛中心 1 楼， T+T+ Mall
Hǎidǐlāo 海底捞 ¥¥¥ ¥ 海底捞 ¥¥¥ ¥
MAP GOOGLE MAP 地图 GOOGLE MAP
China＇s best－loved chain of spicy hotpot restaurants：order hand－ pulled noodles for a tableside performance of warrior－level twirling． Soho Mall Bldg 6， 8 Gongti Beilu，工体北路8号三里屯SOHO6号商场 中国最受欢迎的麻辣火锅连锁店：点一份手拉面，享受桌边武士级旋转表演。Soho Mall Bldg 6，8 Gongti Beilu，工体北路 8 号三里屯 SOHO6 号商场
Stylish Eats 时尚美食
In \＆Out 一坐一忘 quad¥¥\quad \mathbf{¥} \mathbf{¥}
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Take your taste buds to China＇s southwest at this sophisticated Yunnanese spot．Classic dishes like are gorgeously presented． 1 Sanlitun Beixiaojie，三里屯北小街1号 在这家精致的云南菜馆，让您的味蕾体验中国西南风味。经典菜品如【此处为菜品名称】摆盘精美。地址：三里屯北小街 1 号
Superbly styled Shanghai dim sum like ultra－delicate，colourful xiăolóngbāo（soup dumplings）at a Singapore icon．4th fl，China World Mall， 1 Jianguomenwai Dajie，建国门外大街1号国贸商城4层 超级精致的上海点心，如色彩缤纷的小笼包（汤包）在新加坡标志性餐厅。建国门外大街 1 号国贸商城 4 层
Country Kitchen 乡味小厨 ¥¥¥!=¥ ¥ ¥ \neq
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Treat yourself to roast lamb and Peking duck at the Rosewood Hotel＇s Michelin－starred northern Chinese restaurant．3rd fl， Rosewood Hotel，Dongsanhuan，东三环呼家楼北京瑰丽酒店3层 在 Rosewood Hotel 的米其林星级北方中餐厅享用烤羊肉和北京烤鸭。东三环呼家楼北京瑰丽酒店 3 层
Peking Duck 北京烤鸭
Taste of Dadong（Rhapsody）小大董 ¥¥¥ ¥ 大董烤鸭（狂想曲）小大董 ¥¥¥ ¥
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A cool blue colour scheme and some food theatre make this the city’s best＇modern duck＇experience．3rd fl，Taikoo Li South Block， Sanlitun Lu，三里屯路太古里南区3层 冷色调的蓝色主题和一些美食表演使这里成为城市中最佳的“现代鸭”体验。3 层，太古里南区，三里屯路
An unsung purveyor of Peking duck，Jingzun＇s bargain birds （ ¥198//108¥ 198 / 108 whole／half）are every bite the equal of Beijing’s more elite brands． 6 Chunxiu Lu，春秀路6号 京尊作为北京烤鸭的默默无闻的供应商，其实惠的烤鸭（整只／半只）每一口都堪比北京更高端的品牌。地址：春秀路 6 号
Shèng Yǒng Xīng 茂永興烤鸭店 ¥¥¥¥ ¥ ¥ 盛永兴烤鸭店 ¥¥¥¥ ¥ ¥
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High－roller Peking duck，roasted over jujube wood for a less－oily bite． 5 Xindong Lu，新东路5号 高端北京烤鸭，采用枣木烤制，口感更清爽不油腻。5 Xindong Lu，新东路 5 号
International 国际
Taco Bar 塔科酒吧 ¥¥\mathbf{¥} \mathbf{¥}
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Taco Bar packs out with partiers feasting on Mexican street－style tacos and killer cocktails．Lot 10，Courtyard 4，off Gongrentiyuchang Beilu，北京机电院内4号院 Taco Bar 挤满了派对者，他们大快朵颐地享用着墨西哥街头风格的塔可和绝妙的鸡尾酒。Lot 10，Courtyard 4，off Gongrentiyuchang Beilu，北京机电院内 4 号院
Migas Mercado 米家思 ¥¥¥ ¥
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Spanish－run Migas serves sun－drenched fare including grilled octopus and Iberian pork on a fabulous terrace in the CBD．7th fl， China World Mall， 1 Jianguomenwai Dajie，建国门外大街1号国贸商城 西班牙人经营的 Migas 餐厅在 CBD 的一个绝佳露台上提供阳光明媚的美食，包括烤章鱼和伊比利亚猪肉。7 楼，国贸商城，建国门外大街 1 号
＋Pink 越南料理 quad¥¥\quad ¥ ¥
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Modern Vietnamese spot that plays all the classics：phở，bánh mì， spring rolls and iced coffee．3rd fl，Taikoo Li South Block，Sanlitun Lu，三里屯路太古里南区 3 层 现代越南餐厅，供应所有经典菜品：phở、bánh mì、春卷和冰咖啡。位于三里屯路太古里南区 3 层
Home Plate BBQ quad¥¥\quad ¥ ¥
see MAP Gooclemap 本垒美式烤肉 查看地图 Gooclemap 本垒美式烤肉
Flying the American BBQ flag，this Texan－owned restaurant is all about slow－cooked meat，burgers and craft beer．Lot 10，Courtyard 4，off Gongrentiyuchang Beilu，三里屯机电院10号 这家由德克萨斯人经营的餐厅高举美国烧烤大旗，主打慢煮肉食、汉堡和精酿啤酒。地址：三里屯机电院 10 号，工人体育场北路 4 号院
Tienstiens 将将 ¥¥¥ ¥
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Sophisticated，spacious rooftop cafe with French wines and cheese． Lot 10，Courtyard 4，off Gongrentiyuchang Beilu，工人体育场北路4号 10号楼 精致的、宽敞的屋顶咖啡馆，供应法国葡萄酒和奶酪。工人体育场北路 4 号院 10 号楼
Drinking 喝酒
Bars 酒吧
Slowboat Brewery
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Drop anchor at Slowboat，one of Beijing＇s original American－run craft brewers，for three floors of busy，beery fun． 6 Nansanlitun Lu，南三里屯路6号 在北京最早的美式精酿啤酒厂之一 Slowboat 停靠，享受三层楼的热闹啤酒乐趣。南三里屯路 6 号
Destination 目的地
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Beijing＇s best queer club has multiple rooms，an outdoor bar，a restaurant and a programme of LGBTIQ＋events． 北京最好的酷儿俱乐部拥有多个房间、一个户外酒吧、一家餐厅以及一系列 LGBTIQ+活动
bjdestination．com．cn， 7 Gongrentiyuchang Xilu，工体西路7号 bjdestination.com.cn，工体西路 7 号
Mei Bar 梅吧
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Glamorous hotel bar with multiple rooms，an outdoor deck and respectable mixology．5th fl，Rosewood Beijing，Dongsanhuan，东三环呼家楼北京瑰丽酒店5层 奢华酒店酒吧，拥有多个房间、户外露台和出色的调酒技艺。位于东三环呼家楼北京瑰丽酒店 5 层
Paddy O＇Shea＇s Paddy O'Shea's
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For that crucial match you can＇t miss，Paddy＇s is the place．Multiple screens． 28 Dongzhimenwai Dajie，东直门外大街28号 对于那场你不能错过的关键比赛，Paddy's 就是你要去的地方。多个屏幕。28 Dongzhimenwai Dajie，东直门外大街 28 号
Arrow Factory Brewing
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Combines inventive craft ales with impeccable pub grub，served in a two－tiered building with a roof terrace facing the Liangma River．亮马河南路，Liangmahe Nanlu 将创意精酿啤酒与无可挑剔的酒吧美食相结合，坐落于一栋两层建筑中，屋顶露台面向亮马河。亮马河南路，Liangmahe Nanlu
Explore 探索
Summer Palace \＆Haidian 颐和园 \＆海淀
The sprawling Haidian District（海淀区，Hǎidiàn Qū）stretches as far as the Western Hills，which for centuries have offered an escape from the dust，heat and noise within the old city walls．It was here that the Summer Palace（Yiheyuan）was built，the principal survivor of a great swath of regal real estate encompassing the Old Summer Palace （Yuanmingyuan）and the temple－strewn peaks of the Fragrant Hills． Today，Haidian is most famous for its cluster of universities，which revolve around the commercial centre of studenty Wudaokou．Next door，Zhongguancun is Beijing＇s tech and innovation hub． 广阔的海淀区一直延伸到西山，几个世纪以来，这里一直是逃离旧城墙内尘土、炎热和噪音的避风港。颐和园就建在这里，它是包括圆明园和香山寺庙群在内的一大片皇家地产的主要幸存者。如今，海淀区以其众多大学而闻名，这些大学围绕着学生聚集的五道口商业中心。隔壁的中关村则是北京的技术和创新中心
Getting Around 出行指南
(S) Subway Line 4 (S) 地铁 4 号线
Connects central Beijing with the Haidian District. Stops at the National Library (for the canal temples) and the Summer Palace’s east and north gates. Transfer via lines 1, 2, 6 and 19. 连接北京市中心与海淀区。停靠国家图书馆（通往运河寺庙）和颐和园东门及北门。可换乘 1 号线、2 号线、6 号线和 19 号线。
(S) Subway Line 13 (S) 地铁 13 号线
Runs from Xizhimen (line 2) to Wudaokou. 从西直门（2 号线）运行至五道口。
(S) Train (S) 火车
The Xijiao Line, a light railway, serves the Fragrant Hills, the Botanical Gardens and the Summer Palace’s west gate. It connects with the subway at Baogou (line 10). 西郊线是一条轻轨线路，服务于香山、植物园和颐和园西门。它在巴沟站与地铁 10 号线连接。
A marvel of imperial garden design and one of Beijing＇s must－see attractions，the Summer Palace（巸和园，Yíhéyuán）was the preferred residence of the Empress Dowager Cixi．It merits an entire day＇s exploration，although a few hours exploring its arched bridges， pavilions and hillside temples is a good place to start． 作为皇家园林设计的奇迹和北京必游景点之一，颐和园（Yíhéyuán）是慈禧太后偏爱的居所。它值得一整天的探索，尽管花几个小时游览其拱桥、亭台和山坡寺庙是一个不错的开始
The main entrance is the East Palace Gate，near the Xiyuan subway station．Avoid backtracking by exiting through the north or west entrances，both of which have their own subway stations． 正门是东宫门，靠近西苑地铁站。为避免走回头路，可以从北门或西门离开，这两个出口附近都有各自的地铁站
Scan this QR code to book tickets for the Summer Palace 扫描此二维码预订颐和园门票
History 历史
The Summer Palace was part of the domain of imperial gardens long before the Qianlong Emperor embellished it as the Garden of Clear Ripples in the mid-18th century. The oldest surviving sections are its waterways - the central Kunming Lake was originally a reservoir dug during the Yuan dynasty for the city’s water supply. However, today the palace is most famous as the favoured retreat of imperial China’s last true ruler, the Empress Dowager Cixi. 颐和园早在乾隆皇帝于 18 世纪中期将其扩建为清漪园之前，就已经是皇家园林的一部分。现存最古老的部分是它的水系——昆明湖最初是元朝时期为城市供水而挖掘的水库。然而，如今颐和园最为著名的是作为中国最后一位真正的统治者慈禧太后的避暑胜地。
Even as the Old Summer Palace has come to symbolise the transgressions of the foreign imperial powers, the existing Summer Palace has come to stand for Cixi’s self-indulgent decadence and feudal misrule that stymied China’s modernisation efforts. Cixi’s court allegedly embezzled funds earmarked for the Chinese navy in order to help renovate the Summer Palace just before the disastrous Sino-Japanese War of 1895. China needed a modern navy, the story goes, but all it got was Cixi’s marble boat. 即使圆明园已成为外国列强侵略的象征，现存的颐和园则代表了慈禧太后自我放纵的颓废和阻碍中国现代化努力的封建统治。据称，慈禧的宫廷在 1895 年灾难性的中日战争前夕，挪用了原本用于中国海军的资金来翻修颐和园。传说中国本需要一支现代化的海军，但最终只得到了慈禧的大理石船。
After this defeat, the Guangxu Emperor, for whom Cixi had been ruling as regent, attempted to seize power and institute the sweeping 100 Days’ Reform in 1898. Cixi responded by staging a coup and initially confining the emperor to a single courtyard in the Summer Palace. He died less than 24 hours before Cixi in 1908; most believe he was poisoned. 在这次失败后，光绪皇帝——慈禧一直作为摄政王为他统治——试图夺取权力，并在 1898 年推行了全面的百日维新。慈禧通过发动政变作为回应，最初将皇帝软禁在颐和园的一个院子里。他在 1908 年比慈禧早不到 24 小时去世；大多数人认为他是被毒死的。
Layout 布局
The Summer Palace was built around the central Kunming Lake, with the main sights - the imperial residence and Longevity Hill - along the northern banks. A ferry route runs from the east shore to the northwestern shore; alternatively, hiring your own boat at one of the jetties is a great way to 颐和园围绕昆明湖而建，主要景点——皇家住所和万寿山——位于北岸。渡轮路线从东岸延伸到西北岸；或者，在码头租一条船是一种很好的方式。
escape the crowds. Following the West Causeway to the East Shore makes for a great walking circuit with its lakeside views and arched bridges, while the area behind Longevity Hill has two unusual attractions. 逃离人群。沿着西堤到东岸的路线，可以欣赏到湖景和拱桥，形成一条绝佳的步行环路，而万寿山背后还有两个独特的景点。
Pick up an audio guide ( ¥40¥ 40 ) at the entrance for in-depth commentary. 在入口处领取语音导览器（ ¥40¥ 40 ）以获取深入解说。
QUICK BREAK 快速休息
There are no restaurants inside the Summer Palace grounds. Bring your own snacks and eat a good breakfast at Qingfeng Steamed Dumplings outside the east gate before entering. 颐和园内没有餐厅。建议自带零食，并在入园前在东门外的庆丰包子铺吃一顿丰盛的早餐。
THE MARBLE BOAT
The western limit of the Long Corridor opens onto Cixi’s infamous marble ‘boat’, which has come to embody how out of touch with geopolitical reality China’s late imperial rulers were. 长廊的西端通向慈禧那声名狼藉的大理石“船”，它已成为中国晚清统治者与地缘政治现实脱节的象征。
Hall of Benevolence & Longevity 仁寿殿
Entering via the East Palace Gate, visitors arrive at the Hall of Benevolence & Longevity, from where Cixi ran the government. Glimpse the grand throne within; the rockery outside was designed to mimic the famous Lion Grove Garden in Suzhou. Note also the dragon and phoenix statues in the courtyard, the symbolic embodiment of emperor and empress. Here it’s the phoenix that commands centre spot, a clear sign that a woman was running the show. But it wasn’t all work and no play. To the north is the three-storey Grand Theatre where the court would enjoy opera performances. Westwards are the living quarters, which still contain dusty Qing-era furniture. Be sure to track down the Hall of Jade Waves, where you can see the remains of the brick walls that Cixi erected in order to imprison the Guangxu Emperor here in 1898. 从东宫门进入，游客将抵达仁寿殿，这里是慈禧太后处理政务的地方。殿内可一睹宏伟的宝座；殿外的假山设计模仿了苏州著名的狮子林。同时注意庭院中的龙和凤雕像，它们分别象征着皇帝和皇后。在这里，凤凰占据中心位置，明显表明当时由女性掌权。但这里并非只有工作没有娱乐。北面是三层的大戏楼，宫廷曾在此欣赏戏曲表演。向西是生活区，仍保留着布满灰尘的清代家具。务必找到玉澜堂，在这里可以看到慈禧太后于 1898 年为囚禁光绪皇帝而修建的砖墙遗迹。
Cixi’s living quarters were perfectly placed for access to the Long Corridor, a canopied walkway zigzagging westwards for 728 m along the north shore of Kunming Lake at the foot of Longevity Hill. One can easily imagine Cixi being carried here in her sedan chair, enjoying the cool breeze off the water and admiring the artwork painted on every crossbeam, column and ceiling arch. 慈禧的住所位置极佳，便于通往长廊，这条有顶棚的步道蜿蜒向西，沿昆明湖北岸延伸 728 米，位于万寿山脚下。人们可以轻易想象慈禧被抬在轿子里来到这里，享受着水面上吹来的凉风，欣赏着每一根横梁、柱子和拱顶上绘制的艺术品。
Longevity Hill 万寿山
The Summer Palace’s most commanding landmark is the octagonal Pagoda of Buddhist Incense, which rises 41 m above the slopes of Longevity Hill. On the summit, behind the pagoda, is the Hall of the Sea of Wisdom. Adorned with 1008 niche images of the Buddha, it’s one of the loveliest buildings in the palace and has sensational views over Kunming Lake towards Beijing. At the foot of Longevity Hill is the Hall of Dispelling Clouds, built by the Qianlong Emperor for his mother on her 60th birthday. 颐和园最具标志性的建筑是八角形的佛香阁，它耸立在万寿山的山坡上，高达 41 米。在山顶，佛香阁后面是智慧海。这座建筑装饰有 1008 尊佛像壁龛，是园中最美丽的建筑之一，从昆明湖向北京方向眺望，景色令人惊叹。在万寿山脚下是排云殿，这是乾隆皇帝为庆祝他母亲 60 岁生日而建的。
West Causeway 西堤
The further west you venture in the Summer Palace, the lighter the crowds become. The slender West Causeway flows south for 2 km over the water, crossing six bridges, the highlight being the remarkably steep Jade Belt Bridge. The willow-lined promenade offers some of the best spots to take photographs of the Summer Palace. If you don’t have the energy to circumnavigate the whole park, you can exit at the West Gate for the Xijiao Line, or return to catch the ferry by the Marble Boat. 在颐和园中，越往西走，人群就越稀少。纤细的西堤向南延伸 2 公里，横跨六座桥，其中最引人注目的是异常陡峭的玉带桥。柳树成荫的步道提供了拍摄颐和园的最佳地点。如果你没有精力绕行整个公园，可以在西门离开，前往西郊线，或者返回大理石船附近搭乘渡轮。
Behind Longevity Hill 万寿山后
Atop the northern end of Longevity Hill, the Four Great Regions are a cluster of Tibetan-style buildings that mark the start of the climb down to the North Palace Gate. At the base of the rear of the hill is Suzhou Street, where emperors and their consorts would pretend to be regular folk by shopping for trinkets, with eunuchs acting as shopkeepers. 在万寿山北端的顶部，四大部洲是一组藏式建筑，标志着从这里开始下山通往北宫门。在山后底部是苏州街，皇帝和后妃们会假装成普通百姓，在这里购买小饰品，而太监们则扮演店主的角色。
EXPERIENCES 体验
Admire Stone Carvings at the Wuta Temple buddhist temple 在五塔寺佛教寺庙欣赏石刻
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If any Beijing sight can vanquish the dreaded＇temple fatigue＇，it＇s Wǔtǎ Sì （五塔寺； 24 Wutasi Cun，五塔寺村24号）．This little－known gem is eminently worthy of a pilgrimage，not just for its remarkable design，which owes more to India than imperial China，but also for the magnificent scatter of ancient masonry－statues，stelae，altars and thrones－salvaged from ruins around Beijing． 如果北京的任何一个景点能够战胜令人畏惧的“寺庙疲劳”，那就是五塔寺（五塔寺；五塔寺村 24 号）。这座鲜为人知的瑰宝绝对值得一游，不仅因为它那源于印度而非中国皇室的非凡设计，还因为那些从北京各处废墟中抢救出来的古老石雕——雕像、石碑、祭坛和宝座
Built in 1473 for a visiting Indian lama，Zhenjue Temple，as it was then called，was one of many temples that lined the canal linking the capital with the imperial gardens．Inspired by the Mahabodhi Temple in India，the boxlike Wuta is pockmarked on all four sides by hundreds of images of the Buddha， each with unique mudras（hand gestures）．This temple was a particular favourite of the Qing rulers－the Qianlong Emperor threw two lavish birthday parties here for his mum and had a similar pagoda built at the Azure Clouds Temple． 建于 1473 年，为接待一位来访的印度喇嘛而建的真觉寺（当时被称为）是连接首都与皇家园林的运河沿岸众多寺庙之一。受印度摩诃菩提寺的启发，这座盒状的五塔寺四周布满了数百尊佛像，每尊佛像都有独特的手印（手势）。这座寺庙尤其受到清朝统治者的喜爱——乾隆皇帝曾在此为他的母亲举办了两场盛大的生日宴会，并在碧云寺建造了一座类似的宝塔
In lieu of its long－lost temple halls，the relatively empty grounds have been given over to the Beijing Art Museum of Stone Carvings，with many examples dating back to the Mongol Yuan dynasty and some as far back as the Eastern Han．It＇s east of the National Library subway station．The temple is closed on Mondays． 在失去其久远的庙宇殿堂后，这片相对空旷的土地被改建为北京石刻艺术博物馆，其中许多石刻可追溯至蒙古元朝，有些甚至远至东汉时期。它位于国家图书馆地铁站的东侧。该寺庙每周一闭馆
Visit the Tranquil Wanshou Temple 参观宁静的万寿寺
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The tranquil，little－visited Wanshou Temple（万寿寺，Wànshòu Sì； 121 Wanshousi Lu，万寿寺路121号）was originally consecrated for the storage of Buddhist texts in 1577．Today，it＇s more museum than a temple，with some excellent displays of antiques． 宁静且鲜有人至的万寿寺（Wànshòu Sì；万寿寺路 121 号）最初于 1577 年被祝圣用于存放佛教典籍。如今，它更像是一座博物馆而非寺庙，陈列着一些精美的古董
Walking beneath the magnolia trees in the opening courtyard and the temple history exhibits in the initial Hall of the Heavenly Kings takes visitors 漫步在开场庭院中的玉兰树下，以及在天王殿中的寺庙历史展览，带领游客
to a prized collection of bronze statuary in the second courtyard，which presents Chinese depictions of Sakyamuni，Manjusri，Amitabha and Guanyin in one side hall，balanced out with Tibetan figures in the wing opposite． 第二进院落的珍贵青铜雕像收藏中，一侧的殿堂里展示了中国风格的释迦牟尼、文殊菩萨、阿弥陀佛和观音菩萨像，与对面厢房中的藏传佛教人物像相映成趣
In the two－storey Wanshou Hall in the next courtyard is an excellent exhibit on the motif of longevity in painting，ceramics and woodcarving．This is followed by the Da Chan Hall，which has a display of calligraphy，ink stones and brushes．The pavilion at the rear of the complex holds a miniature Ming dynasty pagoda alloyed from gold，silver，zinc and lead，while next to this，in an adjacent courtyard，is a collection of Ming and Qing furniture． 在下一个庭院的两层万寿殿中，有一场关于绘画、陶瓷和木雕中长寿主题的精彩展览。接着是大禅殿，这里展示了书法、砚台和毛笔。建筑群后方的亭子里有一座由金、银、锌和铅合金制成的明代微型宝塔，而旁边的庭院里则收藏着明清家具
The temple is west of the National Library subway station．It＇s closed on Mondays． 寺庙位于国家图书馆地铁站西侧。每周一闭馆
AI IN THE CAPITAL 首都的人工智能
Haidian is home to dozens of universities，including two of China＇s finest：Peking University and Tsinghua University．But in recent years，the district has shot to fame thanks to Zhongguancun， China＇s Silicon Valley，fed by the talent pool of China＇s brightest young graduates．A thriving incubation district of start－ups，tech companies and innovation backed by government funding， 海淀区拥有数十所大学，包括中国两所顶尖学府：北京大学和清华大学。但近年来，由于中关村——中国的硅谷——得益于中国最优秀年轻毕业生的人才库，该区声名鹊起。这里是一个由初创企业、科技公司和政府资金支持的创新孵化区，蓬勃发展
Zhongguancun started out as a street selling consumer electronics in 1978 when China began its initial round of economic reforms． Zhongguancun has evolved to become China＇s artificial intelligence heartland，where over a dozen Al labs crunch reams of big data to develop emerging technologies like facial recognition，virtual assistants and chatbots that have been trained to toe the Party line． 中关村始于 1978 年，当时中国开始了第一轮经济改革，它最初是一条销售消费电子产品的街道。如今，中关村已发展成为中国的人工智能中心，这里有十多个 AI 实验室处理大量大数据，开发如面部识别、虚拟助手和聊天机器人等新兴技术，这些技术已被训练得与党的路线保持一致
Bargain Beijing 讨价还价北京
DRINKING 饮酒
Beijing isn＇t the steal that it used to be，but you can still have a cheap night out in Wudaokou（五道口），the city＇s student hub．Raucous late－night Korean and Japanese restaurants serve inexpensive meals to the district＇s 北京已不像过去那样物美价廉，但你仍可以在学生聚集地五道口度过一个经济实惠的夜晚。喧闹的深夜韩式和日式餐厅为这片区域提供了价格亲民的餐食
many students．＇The Wu＇is also home to Beijing＇s cheapest bars and clubs where a shot of something dubious might set you back just ¥10¥ 10 ．A typical night out starts with Korean food and too much sochu（a Korean grain alcohol），and ends at Propaganda，as divey a club as you could dare wish for． 许多学生。“The Wu”也是北京最便宜的酒吧和夜总会的所在地，在那里喝一杯可疑的东西可能只需要花费 ¥10¥ 10 。一个典型的夜晚从韩国料理和过多的烧酒（一种韩国谷物酒）开始，最后在 Propaganda 结束，这是一个你所能想象的最具挑战性的夜总会
Past Indignations at the Old Summer Palace 圆明园的昔日屈辱
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Shattered ruins are all that remain of the Old Summer Palace（圆明园， Yuánmíngyuán； 28 Qinghua Xilu，清华西路28号），at one time the single most beautiful place in all imperial Beijing．Hundreds of Chinese and Tibetan－style buildings，in addition to several Jesuit－designed palaces，once dotted 350 hectares of exquisitely landscaped royal gardens to the city＇s northwest（for context，that＇s five times the size of the Forbidden City）．But in what is surely one of the great cultural tragedies of the imperialist era，the entire compound was pillaged and then put to the torch by British and French troops in 1860．All that＇s left now is a public park． 残破的废墟是圆明园（Yuánmíngyuán；清华西路 28 号）仅存的遗迹，这里曾是整个帝都北京最美丽的地方。数百座中式和藏式建筑，以及几座由耶稣会士设计的宫殿，曾经点缀在西北方向 350 公顷的皇家园林中（作为对比，这是紫禁城面积的五倍）。但在帝国主义时代最大的文化悲剧之一中，整个建筑群在 1860 年被英法联军洗劫并付之一炬。如今剩下的只是一个公园
While there is little here to see，the＇Garden of Perfection and Light＇ remains a singularly important place：its destruction has been forever inscribed in Chinese history books as a low point in the Middle Kingdom＇s humiliation by foreign powers．If you＇re interested in learning more about the events that led to the garden＇s pillaging，listen to the episode＇The Destruction of the Yuanmingyuan＇from the podcast Barbarians at the Gate． 虽然这里几乎没有什么可看的，但“圆明园”仍然是一个极为重要的地方：它的毁灭被永远铭刻在中国历史书籍中，作为中华帝国被外国势力羞辱的低点。如果你对导致圆明园被洗劫的事件感兴趣，可以收听播客《Barbarians at the Gate》中的“圆明园的毁灭”一集
The former gardens cover a huge area -2.5 km from east to west - so be prepared for some walking，especially as the few marble ruins that remain， consisting of the Jesuit palaces and the Great Fountain，are far from the subway stop（Yuanmingyuan Park）． 前花园占地面积巨大，东西长达 2.5 公里，因此要做好步行的准备，尤其是因为仅存的一些大理石遗迹，包括耶稣会宫殿和大喷泉，都离地铁站（圆明园公园）很远。
HIKING AROUND BEIJING 北京周边徒步
If you want a real taste of that wild mountain landscape that lies beyond the 5th Ring Rd，it＇s best to join an organised hike． 如果你想真正体验五环路外那狂野的山地景观，最好参加有组织的徒步旅行
While you could，in theory，piece together the public transport that gets you to some crumbling watchtower on the Great Wall，why make things difficult for yourself？Beijing 虽然理论上你可以拼凑出能带你到长城上某个破败瞭望塔的公共交通，但为什么要给自己添麻烦呢？北京
Hikers（beiiinghikers．com），in operation for over two decades，has already scouted all the best treks in the region，and provides hikers with a shuttle and local guide to get you there and back with minimum fuss． Hikers（beiiinghikers．com）已运营超过二十年，已经探索了该地区所有最佳徒步路线，并为徒步者提供班车和当地向导，确保您往返无忧
There are usually multiple trips each week，with varying levels of distance and difficulty． 通常每周有多趟行程，距离和难度各不相同
Leaf Peeping in the Fragrant Hills 香山赏红叶
A great swath of Beijing＇s Western Hills was once an imperial pleasure resort，acres of undulating pine－cypress forest peppered with temples， pavilions and lookouts dating to the Qing dynasty．Opened to the masses as a public park in 1956，Fragrant Hills（MAP；香山公园，Xiāng Shān Gōngyuán； 40 Maimai Jie，买卖街 40 号）is busiest in autumn when the maples are ablaze．On reasonably clear days you can see Beijing＇s skyscrapers， 20 km distant，from Incense Burner Peak（557m）．The superb Azure Clouds Temple is reason alone to visit． 北京西山的一大片区域曾是皇家的游乐胜地，广袤的松柏森林中点缀着寺庙、亭台和观景台，这些建筑可追溯至清朝。1956 年作为公园向公众开放的香山公园（地图；香山公园，Xiāng Shān Gōngyuán；买卖街 40 号）在秋天枫叶如火时最为热闹。在天气晴朗的日子里，你可以从香炉峰（557 米）看到 20 公里外的北京摩天大楼。壮丽的碧云寺本身就是前往参观的理由
For most visitors，Fragrant Hills Park is a thigh－burning ascent up zigzag lanes and endless steps，passing imperial villas and temples．Allow an hour from the main north entrance to Incense Burner Peak．Alternatively，take the chairlift to the peak，saving your energy for a long amble downhill． 对于大多数游客来说，香山公园是一次大腿燃烧的攀登，沿着曲折的小径和无尽的台阶，经过皇家别墅和寺庙。从北门主入口到香炉峰需要一小时。或者，乘坐缆车到达峰顶，节省体力以便长时间漫步下山
Rather than making straight for the summit，start with a visit to the Azure Clouds Temple（MAP；碧云寺，Bìyún Si），just outside the park＇s main north entrance，with its five－towered pagoda and astonishing hall of 500 Buddhist luohan statues．Southwest of the temple is the enormous，Tibetan－style Temple of Brilliance，while nearby is Xiangshan＇s iconic Glazed Tile Pagoda． 与其直奔山顶，不如从公园北主入口外的碧云寺（MAP；Bìyún Si）开始参观，那里有五座塔楼和令人惊叹的五百罗汉殿。寺庙西南方是宏伟的藏式昭庙，而附近则是香山标志性的琉璃塔
Also nearby is the Botanical Gardens（MAP；北京植物园，Běijīng Zhíwùyuán），which contain flower gardens，a greenhouse and the Sleeping Buddha Temple． 附近还有北京植物园（MAP；Běijīng Zhíwùyuán），园内有花园、温室和卧佛寺
Outside the palace＇s east entrance，the steamed buns，noodles and dumplings at this popular chain make for a quick and tasty breakfast or lunch． 19 Gongmenqian Jie，宫门前街19号 在故宫东门外，这家受欢迎的连锁店的馒头、面条和饺子是快速美味的早餐或午餐选择。19 Gongmenqian Jie，宫门前街 19 号
Sating homesick Koreans since 2004，this windowless eatery serves Seoul－style hotpots of rice cakes，tofu，instant ramen，veggies and a choice of protein．One pot is enough for two to three diners to share． 3rd fl，Dongyuan Plaza， 35 Chengfu Lu，成府路35号东源大厦3层 自 2004 年以来，这家无窗小餐馆一直为思乡的韩国人提供首尔风格的火锅，包括年糕、豆腐、方便面、蔬菜和自选蛋白质。一锅足够两到三位食客共享。地址：成府路 35 号东源大厦 3 层
Golden Peacock 金孔雀德宏傣味餐馆 quad¥¥\quad ¥ ¥
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Yunnan favourites such as grilled fish with lemon－grass and aromatic pine－apple rice．The restaurant specialises in the cuisine of the Dai people． 1 Minzu Daxue Beilu，Weigongcun，魏公村民族大学北路1号楼1层 云南特色菜如香茅草烤鱼和香菠萝饭。餐厅专门提供傣族菜肴。魏公村民族大学北路 1 号楼 1 层
Isshin Japanese Restaurant 有薰一心日本料理 ¥¥¥ ¥
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From maki rolls to beef hotpot，Isshin is a winner for Japanese food at student－friendly prices．It＇s set back from the main road， 150 m northwest of Wudaokou station．Room 403，West BIdg，35－2 Chengfu Lu，成府路35－2号院内西楼403室 从寿司卷到牛肉火锅，Isshin 以学生友好的价格提供美味的日本料理。它位于主路后方，距离五道口站西北 150 米。成府路 35-2 号院内西楼 403 室
Bars 酒吧
Propaganda 宣传
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Propaganda is a long－established Wudaokou dive club with preposter－ously cheap drinks and cheesy EDM． 12 Huaqing Jiayuan，华清嘉园12号楼 Propaganda 是五道口一家历史悠久的夜店，提供价格低得离谱的饮品和俗气的电子舞曲。地址：华清嘉园 12 号楼
Lush
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By day，Lush dishes up breakfast，burgers and salads at student－ friendly prices．After dark，the beers and cocktails start flowing． 1 Huaqing Jiayuan，Chengfu Lu，华清嘉园1号楼2层 白天，Lush 以学生友好的价格提供早餐、汉堡和沙拉。天黑后，啤酒和鸡尾酒开始流动。华清嘉园 1 号楼 2 层，成府路 1 号
Wu Club
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Bargain drinks，pre－mixed EDM bangers and a hands－in－the－air college crowd bring the good times to this club beneath the U－ Centre mall． 36 Chengfu Lu，成府路36号五道口购物中心一层 优惠饮品、预混电子舞曲和热情洋溢的大学生群体为这家位于五道口购物中心地下的俱乐部带来了欢乐时光。成府路 36 号五道口购物中心一层
WORTH A TRIP 值得一游
The Great Wall of China 中国长城
The Great Wall of China is one of the most awe-inspiring monuments in the world, stretching thousands of kilometers across the empire’s historic frontier. The most famous sections are easy to access from Beijing, drawing millions each year with their restored architecture and thoughtful amenities. 长城是世界上最令人敬畏的纪念碑之一，绵延数千公里，横跨帝国的历史边界。最著名的段落从北京很容易到达，凭借其修复的建筑和周到的设施，每年吸引着数百万游客。
Make arrange-ments as soon as you can. Badaling sets a daily limit 尽快做出安排。Badaling 设有每日限额
of 65，000 visitors and holidays are especially busy．Mutianyu tours may also sell out． 在 65,000 名游客中，节假日尤其繁忙。慕田峪的旅游团也可能售罄
Scan this QR code to book admission to Badaling＇s Great Wall and cable cars 扫描此二维码预订八达岭长城门票和缆车
Badaling
Badaling（八达岭，Bādáľng）is the bedrock of Great Wall tourism and the government has laboriously restored its masonry since the 1950s．When Western travellers say they have seen the Great Wall，they usually mean Badaling．Group tours are easy to arrange and travellers may enjoy door－to－ door service and knowledgeable guides．Yet Badaling is also a prime destination for solo travellers，as the bullet train from Beijing makes this park a cinch to visit on your own．The crowds can be intense，but Badaling＇s convenient location and heart－stopping views make it one of the most coveted day trips in the world．Entrance to the Great Wall is ¥40¥ 40 for adults and free for seniors and children under six． 八达岭（Badaling）是长城旅游的基石，自 20 世纪 50 年代以来，政府对其进行了艰苦的修复工作。当西方旅行者说他们看过长城时，通常指的是八达岭。团体旅游很容易安排，旅行者可以享受门到门的服务和知识渊博的导游。然而，八达岭也是独自旅行者的首选目的地，因为从北京出发的子弹头列车使这个公园成为独自旅行的绝佳选择。虽然人群可能很密集，但八达岭便利的位置和令人心跳加速的景色使其成为世界上最令人向往的一日游之一。长城门票成人价格为 ¥40¥ 40 ，老年人和六岁以下儿童免费
The architecture reflects Badaling＇s 16th－century heyday，but fortifications have existed here since the Warring States Period，more than 2000 years ago． The wall was designed with a width of 4-5m4-5 \mathrm{~m} ，which was said to fit 10 men standing abreast，and cavalrymen could ride horses from tower to tower． Badaling occupied a critical strategic position，especially when nearby Beijing became the Ming dynasty＇s capital in 1421. 建筑反映了八达岭 16 世纪的鼎盛时期，但这里的防御工事自 2000 多年前的战国时期就已存在。城墙的设计宽度为 4-5m4-5 \mathrm{~m} ，据说可以容纳 10 人并肩站立，骑兵可以从一座塔楼骑马到另一座塔楼。八达岭占据了关键的战略位置，尤其是在 1421 年附近的北京成为明朝首都之后。
Visit the Great Wall Museum 参观 Great Wall Museum
The Great Wall Museum，displaying more than 2000 artefacts，opened in 1994 to help visitors understand Badaling＇s history and importance．After a 长城博物馆于 1994 年开放，展示了 2000 多件文物，旨在帮助游客了解八达岭的历史和重要性。经过一次
lull in attendance, the museum is currently being rebuilt and is expected to reopen sometime in 2025. The new design will see the museum expanded and modernised, and curators are actively enriching the collection. 由于参观人数减少，博物馆目前正在重建，预计将于 2025 年重新开放。新设计将使博物馆得以扩建和现代化，策展人正在积极丰富藏品。
TAKE A BREAK 休息一下
The many watchtowers once served as lookout points and bases for signal fires. Today, the towers are handy enclosures for resting your legs or sheltering from the elements. 许多瞭望塔曾经用作瞭望点和信号火的基地。如今，这些塔楼成了方便的地方，可以休息双腿或躲避风雨。
Hike the Badaling Wall 徒步八达岭长城
This section of the Great Wall extends 12km over the Badaling highlands, connecting 43 watchtowers and undulating far beyond view. Yet the walkable part of Badaling is a manageable 3.74 km , and visitors can pass through up to 19 watchtowers. The crenellations are high on both sides, so there’s little danger of falling, and guards will stop visitors from climbing around. Tourists flood the wall all day long, and it’s normal to stand shoulder-toshoulder with hundreds of tourists as you inch your way down the brick floors. 这段长城延伸 12 公里，跨越八达岭高地，连接 43 座瞭望塔，蜿蜒起伏，一眼望不到尽头。然而，八达岭可步行的部分仅有 3.74 公里，游客可以穿过多达 19 座瞭望塔。两侧的垛墙很高，所以几乎没有坠落的危险，警卫也会阻止游客攀爬。游客全天都涌上城墙，在砖石地面上缓慢前行时，与数百名游客肩并肩站立是常态。
The views are spectacular on both sides of the wall, and panoramic photos are easy to take on a clear day, as long as you manage to dodge all the selfie sticks. Inside the towers you can peer through windows and arrow slits, taking in the same vistas that archers surveyed during the Ming dynasty. 长城两旁的景色非常壮观，在晴朗的日子里，只要避开所有的自拍杆，全景照片很容易拍摄。在塔楼内，你可以透过窗户和箭孔窥视，欣赏与明朝弓箭手所观察到的相同景色。
GEAR UP 装备起来
The Great Wall is a demanding hike - prepare for rain, extreme temper-atures and dense crowds. Despite the restoration, the steep stone walkways can challenge any visitor, and sturdy shoes are always a smart idea. Bags are allowed, so bring provisions such as water and snacks. 长城徒步极具挑战性——要做好应对降雨、极端气温和人潮拥挤的准备。尽管经过修复，陡峭的石阶仍会让任何游客感到吃力，因此穿一双结实的鞋子总是明智之举。允许携带背包，所以请备好水和零食等补给品。
Ride the Badaling Cable Car 乘坐八达岭缆车
Badaling’s cable car system is designed to suspend visitors over the ridges and deposit them at the summits. The transparent walls provide 360 -degree views as you rise over the precipitous slopes. There are two well-marked cableways: the North Cableway is longer and adjacent to the main parking lot, while the South Cableway is shorter and a slightly longer walk from the bus or train. The cable cars are great for aerial shots of the wall, and they provide shortcuts for starting or ending a hike, taking only a few minutes from station to station. Alternatively, you can try the ‘pulley’ system: climb into a plastic chair and ride for 10 minutes up a narrow-gauge track, much like a rollercoaster. 八达岭的缆车系统旨在将游客悬吊在山脊之上，并将他们送至山顶。透明的墙壁提供了 360 度的全景视野，当您越过陡峭的斜坡时。这里有两条标志清晰的缆车道：北缆车道更长，靠近主停车场，而南缆车道较短，从公交或火车站步行稍远。缆车是拍摄长城空中照片的绝佳选择，它们为徒步的起点或终点提供了捷径，站与站之间只需几分钟。或者，您可以尝试“滑轮”系统：坐进塑料椅，沿着窄轨轨道骑行 10 分钟，就像过山车一样。
Cable cars and pulley rides cost extra; including Great Wall admission, round-trip prices range from ¥100¥ 100 to ¥180¥ 180, though children six and under can ride the cable car for free. QR codes are posted on walls so you can purchase tickets using a smartphone. A well-marked ticket booth is also stationed at the cableways’ base. 缆车和滑轮车需额外付费；包括长城门票在内，往返价格从 ¥100¥ 100 到 ¥180¥ 180 不等，不过六岁及以下儿童可免费乘坐缆车。墙上贴有二维码，您可以使用智能手机购票。缆车底部还设有标识清晰的售票亭。
TRY THE TRAIN 试试火车
If you want to avoid Badaling tour operators，the bullet train from Beijing is a fast and economical option．The ride from Qinghe Railway Station（清河站，Qīnghé zhàn）takes less than 30 minutes， and the Badaling station is a quick walk from the park＇s main entrance．A few trains also run from Beijing North Station（北京北站， Běijīngběi Zhàn）． 如果你想避开八达岭的旅游运营商，从北京出发的子弹头列车是一个快速且经济的选择。从清河站（Qīnghé zhàn）出发的行程不到 30 分钟，八达岭站距离公园的主入口仅需步行片刻。也有几趟列车从北京北站（Běijīngběi Zhàn）出发
Shop the Market 逛市场
A sloped road leads from the parking lot to the main entrance，and its pavements are lined with souvenir shops，cafes and restaurants．Life－size statues，sculpted to look like Ming dynasty workers and warriors，are scattered along the route． 一条斜坡路从停车场通向主入口，路旁排列着纪念品商店、咖啡馆和餐馆。沿途散布着与真人大小相仿的雕像，雕刻成明朝工人和战士的模样
The shopkeepers are easygoing for such a well－trafficked destination， although popular items like T－shirts and mugs can be found for a cheaper price back in Beijing．If you＇re travelling light，these shops are a smart place to stock up on food and bottled water． 在这个游客众多的目的地，店主们都很随和，尽管像 T 恤和马克杯这样的热门商品在北京可以找到更便宜的价格。如果你轻装旅行，这些商店是储备食物和瓶装水的明智之选
The street has two sizeable public toilets，and you＇re wise to use one before venturing onto the wall． 这条街上有两座大型公共厕所，在登上城墙之前明智地使用其中一个
CAMERAS YES，DRONES NO 相机允许，无人机禁止
Photography is heartily encouraged，and you can take pictures anywhere in the park，but drones are strictly forbidden． 摄影是受到热烈鼓励的，你可以在公园的任何地方拍照，但无人机是严格禁止的
TAKE THE TOBOGGAN DOWN 乘坐 TOBOGGAN 滑道下山
Mutianyu＇s＇toboggan＇is a small plastic sled that follows a steel chute down the mountain．Adult riders can descend on their own or 慕田峪的“toboggan”是一种小型塑料雪橇，沿着钢制滑道下山。成年乘客可以独自下滑，或者
take a small child with them．The ride takes about five minutes and only goes downward，but the 10 km speeds feel a lot faster when you＇re careening around the curves．You can accelerate or brake with a simple joystick．Head to Number 6 Watchtower and wait for the operator to tell you when to go；gravity will handle the rest．The toboggan has no established weight limit．Tickets cost ¥100¥ 100 to ¥140¥ 140 and can be purchased on－site． 带着小孩一起乘坐。滑行大约需要五分钟，并且只向下滑行，但在转弯时，10 公里的速度感觉要快得多。你可以用一个简单的操纵杆加速或刹车。前往 6 号瞭望塔，等待操作员告诉你何时出发；重力会完成剩下的部分。滑道没有设定的重量限制。门票价格为 ¥100¥ 100 到 ¥140¥ 140 ，可以在现场购买
Mutianyu 慕田峪
Northeast of Beijing，Mutianyu（慕田峪，Mùtiányù）is the second most popular section of the Great Wall，and it has much of the same appeal as Badaling：immaculate preservation，long hikes and dazzling views．The history also parallels Badaling，with most of the surviving construction dating back to the 16th century．Mutianyu is harder to reach by public transport and most travellers resort to charter buses．However，Mutianyu attracts a fraction of the traffic and，even in the high season，you may have entire towers to yourself． 北京东北方向，慕田峪（Mùtiányù）是长城第二受欢迎的段落，它与八达岭有着相似的魅力：保存完好、徒步路线长、景色迷人。其历史也与八达岭相似，现存建筑大多可追溯至 16 世纪。慕田峪的公共交通较为不便，多数游客选择包车前往。然而，慕田峪的游客流量远少于八达岭，即使在旺季，你也可能独享整座烽火台
Park admission is usually bundled into the price of a group tour－along with other perks－but if you travel to Mutianyu on your own，admission to the Great Wall is ¥40¥ 40 for adults and free for seniors and children under six． 景区门票通常包含在团体游的价格中——以及其他优惠——但如果你独自前往慕田峪，长城的门票对成人是 ¥40¥ 40 ，对老年人和六岁以下儿童免费
Shop and Eat at Mutianyu 在慕田峪购物与用餐
A sizeable retail village is nestled at the foot of the mountains，where visitors can browse souvenir shops or pick from a range of restaurants．This lower section stands about 3 km down the road from the cable－car stations，requiring most visitors to take a taxi or bus to the actual park entrance．The restaurants get fancier as you go higher up，and many of the shopfronts are tied to specific tour operators．Touts also hawk water and snacks－for inflated prices －on the wall itself，which can be a lifesaver on hot summer days． 一个规模不小的零售村落坐落在山脚下，游客可以在这里浏览纪念品商店或从众多餐厅中选择用餐。这片较低的区域距离缆车站大约 3 公里，大多数游客需要乘坐出租车或公交车才能到达公园的实际入口。随着海拔的升高，餐厅变得越来越高档，许多店面与特定的旅游运营商有关。在城墙本身，小贩们也会以高价兜售水和零食——这在炎热的夏日里可能是救命的
Hike the Whole Way or Just Part 全程徒步或仅走部分路线
Visitors can walk about 5.4 km of the Mutianyu Great Wall，which strings 游客可以步行约 5.4 公里的慕田峪长城，这段长城蜿蜒
together 22 watchtowers and overlooks forested peaks and valleys. The wall’s inclines vary from steep to very steep, and hikers should budget several hours to explore its full length. You may also consider hiking a smaller section of the wall, using the cable car, chair lift or toboggan to begin and end your walk. 长城上共有 22 座瞭望塔，俯瞰着郁郁葱葱的山峰和山谷。城墙的坡度从陡峭到非常陡峭不等，徒步者应预留几个小时来探索其全长。你也可以考虑徒步长城的一小段，使用缆车、升降椅或滑道来开始和结束你的行程。
If you really need to stretch your legs, there are two wooded trails that lead from the parking lot to the wall. These paved switchbacks terminate in the middle of the Mutianyu wall, at Towers 6,8 and 10. 如果你真的需要伸展腿脚，有两条林间小径从停车场通往长城。这些铺砌的之字形道路在慕田峪长城的中间结束，位于 6 号、8 号和 10 号敌楼。
Mutianyu Cable Car or Chair Lift 慕田峪缆车或索道
The cable car is an enclosed capsule that carries up to six people up or down the mountain, depositing riders at the Number 14 Watchtower. Passengers can watch the scenery scroll by from all directions via the cable car’s generous windows. If you’re looking for a more open-air experience, the chair lift seats two and is exactly the model you’d find at a ski resort, 缆车是一个封闭的舱室，最多可容纳六人上下山，将乘客送至 14 号烽火台。乘客可以通过缆车宽敞的窗户从各个方向欣赏沿途风景。如果你想要更开放的体验，双人座椅的吊椅正是你在滑雪场会找到的那种类型，
carrying passengers back and forth from the Number 6 Watchtower. You can mix and match rides as much as you like, hiking on foot from one station to the other. 往返于 6 号瞭望塔载客。你可以随意搭配骑行，从一个站点徒步到另一个站点。
Tickets are usually purchased separately, even on group tours. Cable-car and chair-lift rides cost ¥100¥ 100 for a one-way ticket and ¥140¥ 140 round-trip. 门票通常单独购买，即使是团体游也是如此。缆车和升降椅的单程票价为 ¥100¥ 100 ，往返票价为 ¥140¥ 140 。
WALKING TOUR 步行游览
Explore Badaling 探索八达岭
The Great Wall is the main attraction at Badaling, and these wellpatrolled ramparts were designed for walking. When you’ve experienced this ancient wonder, you may also spend a few hours strolling the grounds of Badaling National Forest Park, a hub of hardy food and public art. 长城是八达岭的主要景点，这些巡逻良好的城墙专为步行设计。当你体验完这一古老奇迹后，还可以花上几小时漫步八达岭国家森林公园的园地，这里也是美食和公共艺术的聚集地。
START 开始
Badaling Railroad Station
END
Great Wall Museum 长城博物馆
LENGTH 长度
2.5km; three hours 2.5 公里；三小时
1 Badaling Railway Station 1 八达岭火车站
Step off the train at the Badaling Railroad Station and take the escalator to street level. If you haven’t already bought a return ticket, you can get one at the ticket booth located on the outside of the station. You can probably follow a crowd down the long car park to Badaling’s shopping district. For this route, stop at the cableway window and buy a return ticket. 在八达岭火车站下车，乘坐自动扶梯到达地面。如果您还没有购买返程票，可以在车站外的售票处购买。您可以跟随人群穿过长长的停车场前往八达岭购物区。对于这条路线，请在缆车窗口停下并购买返程票。
2 Commercial Strip 2 商业街
Follow the road up to Badaling’s main gatehouse. This route is a gauntlet of shops and eateries, where you can stock up on supplies before your hike or replenish after. Near the gatehouse is a food hall with several eateries inside, which can serve up a quick lunch later on. The wall has no toilets, so consider using a free one here. 沿着道路走到八达岭的主门楼。这条路两旁是商店和餐馆，你可以在徒步前补充物资，或在徒步后补充能量。门楼附近有一个美食广场，里面有几家餐馆，之后可以快速吃个午餐。长城上没有厕所，所以可以考虑在这里使用免费的厕所。
3 Fortified Entrance 3 防御性入口
An old fort serves as the entrance to the Great Wall, and you’ll find a central plaza with long queues of visitors waiting to pass through. Head to the booths at the right of the entrance to secure your ticket. Advance reservations are highly recommended, and you can use the QR code on your receipt to receive a paper ticket. 一座古老的堡垒作为长城的入口，你会发现一个中央广场，排着长队的游客等待通过。前往入口右侧的售票亭购买门票。强烈建议提前预订，你可以使用收据上的二维码领取纸质票。
4 The Northern Section 4 北部区域
Hike the northern section of the Great Wall, which will gradually lead you higher into the mountains. This popular route takes you through several watchtowers, and on a clear day you can see miles of undulating terrain. Crowds are common and exits are only for emergencies, so budget a good amount of time. 徒步游览长城的北段，这段路程将逐渐带你进入更高的山区。这条热门路线会带你经过几座瞭望塔，在晴朗的日子里，你可以看到数英里起伏的地形。这里通常人潮拥挤，出口仅限紧急情况使用，因此请预留充足的时间。
5 Ride Back Down 5 骑回山下
You’ll find the North Cableway Station at Tower 8. Use your ticket at the turnstile and take the walkway to the platform; an operator will help you into the cable car from there. Whether you’re travelling alone or with company, the cable car can fit up to six passengers. 您将在 8 号塔楼找到北缆车站。在闸机处使用您的票，然后通过走道前往站台；工作人员会帮助您进入缆车。无论您是独自旅行还是结伴同行，缆车最多可容纳六名乘客。
6 Browse the Museum 6 浏览博物馆
Now that you’ve touched the Great Wall, learn about the people who built and defended this military masterpiece. When the Great Wall Museum reopens in 2025, state-of-the-art exhibits will tell the story of Emperor Qin Shi Huang and his 2200-year legacy. 既然你已经触摸了长城，那就了解一下建造和保卫这一军事杰作的人们吧。当长城博物馆在 2025 年重新开放时，最先进的展品将讲述秦始皇及其 2200 年遗产的故事。
WORTH A TRIP 值得一游
Universal Beijing Resort 北京环球度假区
As throngs of excited parkgoers in their finest Hogwarts attire hurry past the spinning Universal globe，a sweeping melody rises to a crescendo－and so the Hollywood spell begins．They＇re all on their way to the capital＇s awesomest theme park：Universal Beijing Resort（北京环球度假区，Běijīng Huánqiú Dùjiàqū）． 当一群群兴奋的游客身着最精致的霍格沃茨服饰匆匆经过旋转的环球影城地球标志时，一段宏大的旋律逐渐达到高潮——好莱坞的魔法就此展开。他们都在前往首都最令人惊叹的主题公园：北京环球度假区（Universal Beijing Resort，Běijīng Huánqiú Dùjiàqū）
PLANNING TIP 规划小贴士
In order to buy tickets, download the Universal Beijing Resort app. If you can’t get the verification process to work overseas, try going through klook.com instead. 为了购买门票，请下载 Universal Beijing Resort 应用程序。如果您在海外无法完成验证流程，可以尝试通过 klook.com 进行操作。
Scan this QR code to download the Universal Beijing Resort app 扫描此二维码下载 Universal Beijing Resort 应用
Rides 乘坐游乐设施
Universal Beijing is mid-sized as far as theme parks go - you should be able to hit all the main rides in one long day. There are five main lands, two of which are for younger kids (Minions, Kung Fu Panda) and three for everyone else (Harry Potter, Transformers and Jurassic World). Each land has three main rides. 环球影城北京是一个中等规模的主题公园——你应该可以在一个长日内体验完所有主要游乐设施。这里有五个主要区域，其中两个适合年幼的孩子（小黄人、功夫熊猫），另外三个适合所有人（哈利波特、变形金刚和侏罗纪世界）。每个区域都有三个主要游乐设施。
The main attraction will always be the stunningly recreated crooked chimneys of Hogsmeade, where wizards from around the world stock up on wands, stage photoshoots at the train station and mount their broomsticks for the incredible 3D Harry Potter and the Forbidden Journey ^(®){ }^{\circledR} - definitely not an experience for those with motion sickness. 主要景点永远是令人惊叹的霍格莫德村歪斜烟囱的重现，来自世界各地的巫师们在这里购买魔杖，在火车站拍摄照片，并骑上扫帚体验令人难以置信的 3D《哈利·波特与禁忌之旅》 ^(®){ }^{\circledR} ——对于晕车的人来说，这绝对不是一种适合的体验。
The Transformers Metrobase has the biggest and baddest scream machine, the Decepti-coaster, while the mellower Jurassic Flyers lets you imagine life as a pteranodon as you glide above the Isla Nublar’s twin peaks and waterfall. 变形金刚地铁基地拥有最大最刺激的尖叫机器——霸天虎过山车，而较为温和的侏罗纪飞行者则让你在滑翔于努布拉岛的双峰和瀑布之上时，想象自己成为一只翼龙的生活。
There is also Hollywood, which has a fun and little-visited film set (Lights, Camera, Action!), and the Waterworld Stunt Show, which is staged several 还有好莱坞，那里有一个有趣且少有人光顾的电影布景（灯光，摄影，开拍！），以及每天上演多次的《水世界》特技表演
times a day. Look out for shows at other venues throughout the day, like Sing. 一天多次。留意其他场地的演出，如 Sing。
Practicalities 实用信息
Like theme parks everywhere, you should expect long lines. If you’re coming to Beijing specifically for Universal Studios, then consider staying at the resort - this gets you into the park one hour ahead of everyone else. Alternatively, buy Express tickets, which give you access to the VIP line. They are sold in packs of one, three or five rides, or you could opt for the entire park. 和世界各地的主题公园一样，你应该做好排长队的准备。如果你专程来北京是为了环球影城，那么可以考虑住在度假区——这样你可以比其他游客提前一小时进入园区。或者，购买快速通行票，这样你就可以使用 VIP 通道。这些票有单次、三次或五次游乐设施的组合出售，你也可以选择购买整个园区的通行票。
The rides are open 10am to 8 pm weekdays, and 9 am to 8 pm weekends and holidays. Come early and expect to queue at the entrance, or arrive late many visitors leave after the 5 pm parade. Note that you do not get a ticket. Instead, you have to present your passport and do a facial recognition scan. 游乐设施平日开放时间为上午 10 点至晚上 8 点，周末和节假日上午 9 点至晚上 8 点。建议早点来，预计在入口处排队，或者晚点来，因为许多游客在下午 5 点的游行后离开。请注意，您不会拿到门票，而是需要出示护照并进行面部识别扫描。
To get here, take subway lines 1 or 7 to the end of the line; it’s an hour from the city centre. Children under 16 must be accompanied by an adult. 要到达这里，乘坐地铁 1 号线或 7 号线到终点站；从市中心出发需要一小时。16 岁以下的儿童必须由成人陪同。
TAKE A BREAK 休息一下
Every type of restaurant - from noodles to burgers and a chocolate emporium to roast duck - are located in the themed lands and on the City Walk that leads to the resort. 从面条到汉堡，从巧克力专卖店到烤鸭店，各种类型的餐厅都分布在主题区域和通往度假区的 City Walk 上。
The Chinese have a deep and uncomplicated love of children. Beijing may have fewer child-friendly facilities than equivalentsized cities elsewhere, but the locals will go out of their way to accommodate kids. 中国人对孩子的爱深厚而单纯。北京可能比其他同等规模的城市拥有更少的儿童友好设施，但当地人总会尽力照顾孩子。
Playgrounds 游乐场
Toddlers will love running around Beijing’s parks and squares, exploring their pathways and dancing along with the pensioners. Beihai Park (which has boats) and Jingshan Park are good choices. There are not many outdoor playgrounds, however (perhaps because of air pollution); for this type of fun you’ll need to head indoors to a mall, where you pay for access. 幼儿会喜欢在北京的公园和广场上奔跑，探索小路并与老人们一起跳舞。北海公园（有船）和景山公园是不错的选择。然而，户外游乐场并不多（可能是因为空气污染）；想要这种乐趣，你需要前往室内的商场，那里需要付费进入。
WATERPARKS 水上乐园
Beijing in summer is hot - cool off on local water slides like those at the Water Cube, which hosted events at the 2008 and 2022 Olympics and is now also home to the city’s largest waterpark. 北京的夏天很热——可以在当地的水上滑梯上消暑，比如水立方里的滑梯，水立方曾举办过 2008 年和 2022 年奥运会的赛事，现在也是北京最大的水上乐园所在地。
Top Experiences 顶级体验
Beijing’s top two sights for older kids are the Great Wall and Universal Studios (pictured). Mutianyu (Great Wall) is a good choice for families: it has a cable car, a toboggan ride and lessdeveloped wilder sections of the Wall for explorers. 北京最适合大孩子的两大景点是长城和环球影城（如图）。慕田峪长城是家庭游的好选择：这里有缆车、滑道以及适合探险者的未开发原始长城段。
Universal Studios has a daily parade and mellower rides in the Kung Fu Panda and Minion lands that will appeal to younger kids; teens have plenty of thrilling rides to choose from. 环球影城每天都有游行，功夫熊猫和小黄人主题区的游乐设施较为温和，适合年幼的孩子；青少年则有大量惊险刺激的游乐设施可供选择。
Kids can often get in for half price, or free if they are under 1.2 m tall. It’s always worth asking at the ticket office. 儿童通常可以享受半价优惠，如果身高低于 1.2 米则免费。在售票处询问总是值得的。
Dining 餐饮
Dishes at Chinese restaurants are typically large and designed for sharing, and simple staples like plain cooked rice only cost a few yuan. If chopsticks are proving tricky, ask for a spoon (sháozǐ, 勺子). 中国餐馆的菜肴通常分量大，适合分享，像白米饭这样的简单主食只需几元。如果使用筷子有困难，可以要一个勺子（sháozǐ, 勺子）。
Accommodation 住宿
Beijing has a number of fabulous luxury hotels, and you’ll get a lot for your money compared to other world capitals. 北京拥有许多豪华酒店，与其他世界首都相比，您将获得物超所值的体验。
Where to Stay if You Love... 如果您喜欢...住在哪里
Authentic Alleyways 真实的胡同
Drum Tower A great neighbourhood to experience local life in the capital, it’s north of the Forbidden City and generally has good transport options. Look for midrange courtyard hotels in local hutong. 鼓楼 体验首都本地生活的好去处，位于故宫以北，交通便利。可以在当地的胡同里寻找中档四合院酒店。
OUR PICK
We love to stay in..
Forbidden City & Dongcheng 我们的选择 我们喜欢住在...故宫和东城
Not only is it convenient, this central area also has the widest range of accommodation. Wangfujing, east of the Forbidden City, has a number of five-star properties, but we prefer the traditional hutong around the Dongsi and Zhangzizhong Lu subway stations for a genuine taste of everyday Beijing life. 它不仅方便，这个中心区域还拥有最广泛的住宿选择。紫禁城东侧的王府井有许多五星级酒店，但我们更喜欢东四和张自忠路地铁站周围的传统胡同，以便真正体验北京的日常生活。
HOW MUCH FOR A NIGHT IN A... 一晚住宿费用...
budget hotel from ¥400¥ 400 预算酒店从 ¥400¥ 400
boutique midrange from ¥800¥ 800 精品中档酒店从 ¥800¥ 800
luxury hotel from ¥1600¥ 1600 豪华酒店来自 ¥1600¥ 1600
The High Life 高端生活
Sanlitun & Chaoyang Beijing’s business district is also the buzziest once the sun sets. Skyscraping luxury hotels are relatively 三里屯和朝阳区是北京的商业区，也是夜幕降临后最热闹的地方。高耸入云的豪华酒店相对较少。
affordable and close to the city’s hippest restaurants and bars. 价格实惠且靠近城市最时尚的餐厅和酒吧。
Online Booking 在线预订
Trip.com is the most reliable site to book hotels for a Beijing stay and is the most likely to have up-to-date information. International booking sites do work, but may not have a full selection. Trip.com 是预订北京住宿最可靠的网站，最有可能提供最新信息。国际预订网站也可以使用，但可能没有完整的选择。
Hostels & Flat Shares 旅舍与合租公寓
Due to local laws, renting a room or apartment in Beijing is off-limits to tourists. Hostels are almost nonexistent following a bunk-bed ban aimed at migrant workers. 由于当地法律，游客在北京租房或公寓是被禁止的。针对外来务工人员的上下铺禁令使得旅馆几乎不存在。
Government Restrictions 政府限制
Not all hotels in China are open to foreigners. Policies change constantly, so always double-check that a property has recent online reviews from foreign guests. 并非所有中国的酒店都对外国人开放。政策时常变化，因此务必再次确认该酒店有来自外国客人的近期在线评价。
Food，Drink \＆Nightlife 美食、饮品与夜生活
Allergies \＆Intolerances 过敏与不耐受
Peanuts，sesame and seafood are common ingredients．Wheat noodles are a Beijing staple，though rice is easy to find．Soy sauce and black vinegar are ubiquitous and contain gluten，as do vegetarian dishes（seitan）． 花生、芝麻和海鲜是常见的食材。小麦面条是北京的主食，不过米饭也很容易找到。酱油和黑醋无处不在，且含有麸质，素食菜肴（面筋）也是如此
No English menu？One way to order is to look at what other diners are eating，point with a finger，and say，＇I want that＇（wǒyào nàgè，我要那个）． 没有英文菜单？一种点菜的方法是看看其他食客在吃什么，用手指着说：“我要那个”（wǒ yào nà gè，我要那个）
RESERVATIONS 预订
Few places in Beijing take reservations；the secret to getting a table is to show up early and be prepared to wait．The queuing system is digital and requires a local phone number；if you don＇t have one，the hostess will try to accommodate you（eg by using her phone number）． 在北京，很少有地方接受预订；获得座位的秘诀是早点到达并准备好等待。排队系统是数字化的，需要一个本地电话号码；如果你没有，服务员会尽量为你安排（例如使用她的电话号码）
Vegetarians 素食者
To say＇I am a vegetarian＇in Chinese，the phrase is＇wǒ chī sù＇（我吃素）．Traditional vegetarian restaurants are often near temples，and serve＇mock－meat＇fare made from tofu，wheat gluten，mushrooms and vegetables．For other vegetarian options，look for international cafes and restaurants． 用中文说“我是素食者”，可以说“我吃素”（wǒ chī sù）。传统的素食餐厅通常位于寺庙附近，提供由豆腐、面筋、蘑菇和蔬菜制成的“仿肉”菜肴。寻找其他素食选择，可以看看国际咖啡馆和餐厅
HOW TO．．．Pay the Bill 如何……付账
Going Digital Many restaurants in Beijing are fully digital．Putting your name on the waitlist，consulting a menu，placing an order and paying the bill is all done thorough your phone．While this is all quite convenient for Chinese speakers with a local phone number，most foreign tourists will need waitstaff to carry out the process for them． Beijingers realise that foreigners are usually helpless and are happy to lend a hand，so long as the restaurant is not crazy busy．The catch is that the entire process may be in Chinese only． 数字化进程 北京的许多餐厅已经完全数字化。将您的名字加入等候名单、查阅菜单、下单和支付账单都可以通过手机完成。虽然这对于拥有本地电话号码的中文使用者来说非常方便，但大多数外国游客需要服务员来帮他们完成这一过程。北京人意识到外国人通常对此束手无策，只要餐厅不是特别繁忙，他们都很乐意伸出援手。唯一的问题是，整个过程可能只提供中文服务
Cash A few places still have helpful picture menus；all will accept cash payments． 一些地方仍然有带图片的菜单，非常实用；所有地方都接受现金支付
Tipping No one tips． 小费 没有人给小费
PRICE RANGES 价格范围
The following price ranges refer to the cost of a meal for one person． ¥¥ less than ¥70¥ 70 以下价格范围是指一人一餐的费用。 ¥¥ 少于 ¥70¥ 70 ¥¥¥70-140¥ ¥ ¥ 70-140 ∄∄¥\nexists \nexists ¥ more than ¥140¥ 140∄∄¥\nexists \nexists ¥ 超过 ¥140¥ 140
OPENING HOURS 开放时间
Restaurants 10．30am to 2pm&5pm2 \mathrm{pm} \& 5 \mathrm{pm} to 10pm 餐厅 上午 10:30 至晚上 10 点
Cafes 9am to 9pm 咖啡馆 上午 9 点至晚上 9 点
Bars 6pm to 2am 酒吧 下午 6 点至凌晨 2 点
Going Out 外出
Hutong Bars The haunt of hidden-gem cocktail dens and boho cafes, Beijing’s hutong, especially around the Drum Tower, have broken away as a nightlife alternative. 胡同酒吧 北京胡同，尤其是鼓楼周边，已成为夜生活的另一选择，这里隐藏着精品鸡尾酒吧和波西米亚风格的咖啡馆。
Craft Beer Beer is China’s most popular drink, and craft breweries have been on the rise in the past decade. Popular names include Great Leap, Slowboat, Jing-A, N Beer and Arrow Factory Brewing (pictured). 精酿啤酒是中国最受欢迎的饮品，过去十年间精酿酒厂逐渐兴起。知名品牌包括 Great Leap、Slowboat、京 A、N Beer 和箭厂啤酒（如图）。
Live Music The hutong in the Drum Tower area have a handful of intimate live-music venues; the lakes of Beihai is a more boisterous area, with less discerning performances. 鼓楼地区的胡同里有一些私密的现场音乐场所；北海的湖边则更为热闹，表演水平参差不齐。
Karaoke (KTV) Hugely popular in China. Beijing has plenty of places where you can rent a windowless room to warble songs with friends, and have drinks and fruit brought in. 卡拉 OK（KTV）在中国非常流行。北京有许多地方可以租用无窗的房间，与朋友们一起唱歌，并享受送来的饮料和水果。
Dancing Clubland means the Workers’ Stadium, where crazy-rich Beijingers roll up in Ferraris and bottles of champagne are expected. For more music-centric clubs, check out underground venues like Zhao Dai, Dada and Groundless Factory. 舞蹈俱乐部指的是工人体育场，那里聚集着开着法拉利的有钱北京人，香槟是必备品。对于更注重音乐的俱乐部，可以去赵呆、Dada 和 Groundless Factory 等地下场所。
The Chinese government’s attitude towards the LGBTIQ+ community is: ‘We won’t bother you, so long as you stay in the closet’. 中国政府对待 LGBTIQ+群体的态度是：“只要你们保持低调，我们就不会干涉。”
The Party Line 党的路线
Although the government’s attitudes to homosexuality have come a long way (it was officially classified as a mental disorder until 2001), the CCP has reversed course in recent years as the current regime has decided to zero in on traditional family values, with an emphasis on encouraging couples to have more children. Following these decisions, Beijing’s LGBT Center, the largest in the country, closed in 2023; it’s generally understood that the government decided to shut it down. 尽管政府对同性恋的态度已经有所进步（直到 2001 年，它还被官方归类为精神障碍），但近年来，随着当前政权决定聚焦传统家庭价值观，强调鼓励夫妻生育更多孩子，中共已经逆转了方向。在这些决策之后，全国最大的 LGBT 中心——北京同志中心于 2023 年关闭；普遍认为政府决定将其关闭。
The Party has also banned the depiction of gay people (along with drinking and reincarnation) on television; in 2021 the ban was extended to effeminate men, with the official statement instructing broadcasters to ‘resolutely put an end to sissy men and other abnormal aesthetics’. 该党还禁止在电视上描绘同性恋者（以及饮酒和转世）；2021 年，这一禁令被扩大到“娘炮”男性，官方声明指示广播公司“坚决杜绝娘炮等畸形审美”。
Social Acceptance 社会接受度
Even with recent government crackdowns, Beijing still has a welcoming LGBTIQ+ 尽管最近政府进行了打击，北京仍然有一个欢迎 LGBTIQ+的氛围
community. Generally speaking, many Chinese are accepting of gays and lesbians so 一般来说，许多中国人对同性恋者持接受态度
long as it does not involve their own family members or interfere with having children. 只要不涉及他们自己的家庭成员或干扰生育。
Many young Beijingers hold similarly tolerant views as their peers elsewhere in the world. 许多年轻的北京人持有与世界其他地方同龄人相似的宽容观点。
DATING & NETWORKING APPS 约会与社交应用
Certain networking and dating apps are online in China, but your data is definitely not 在中国，某些社交和约会应用程序是在线的，但你的数据绝对不安全
private. For men, Grindr sometimes works. For women, check out Lespark and The L. 对于男性，Grindr 有时有效。对于女性，可以试试 Lespark 和 The L。
LEGALITY 合法性
It’s important to note that homosexuality is perfectly legal in China. There is no risk to travelling as a same-sex couple. 需要注意的是，同性恋在中国是完全合法的。作为同性伴侣旅行没有任何风险。
Resources 资源
Destination (bidestination.com.cn) In Chaoyang, this is Beijing’s longest-running queer club. It hosts guest DJs, organises cultural and arts events, and has an attached restaurant • Utopia (utopiaasia.com) An informative and occasionally updated guide to LGBTIQ+ hot spots in Beijing. 目的地 (bidestination.com.cn) 位于朝阳区，这是北京历史最悠久的酷儿俱乐部。这里邀请客座 DJ，组织文化艺术活动，并附设餐厅 • 乌托邦 (utopiaasia.com) 一份信息丰富且偶尔更新的北京 LGBTIQ+热点指南。
Health & Safe Travel 健康与安全旅行
The upside to an authoritarian police state is that Beijing is incredibly safe: your greatest risk will likely be crossing the street. 威权警察国家的好处是北京非常安全：你最大的风险可能只是过马路。
AIR POLLUTION
Despite Beijing’s reputation for dangerous air-pollution levels, the situation has improved and should continue to trend in a positive direction. Nevertheless, pollution levels often register as ‘Unhealthy’. Travellers with chronic respiratory conditions should check the air-quality index (aqicn.org) before their trip. 尽管北京以危险的空气污染水平闻名，但情况已有所改善，并应继续向积极方向发展。然而，污染水平经常被记录为“不健康”。患有慢性呼吸系统疾病的旅行者应在出行前查看空气质量指数（aqicn.org）。
The Police State 警察国家
Police, soldiers and surveillance cameras are everywhere, and the consequences of engaging in illicit activity can be severe. This not only includes obvious no-nos (drugs, prostitution) but also any sort of political or religious activity - leave the ‘Liberate Hong Kong’ Tshirt at home and remember that anything you do or say online can potentially be traced to your physical location. While the government is primarily concerned with Chinese citizens, laws can be applied arbitrarily and courts do not rule in favour of foreigners. 警察、士兵和监控摄像头无处不在，从事非法活动的后果可能非常严重。这不仅包括明显的禁忌（毒品、卖淫），还包括任何形式的政治或宗教活动——把“解放香港”的 T 恤留在家里，记住你在网上所做或所说的任何事情都可能被追踪到你的实际位置。虽然政府主要关注的是中国公民，但法律可以任意适用，法院不会对外国人做出有利的裁决。
TAP WATER 自来水
Do not drink tap water. Bottled water, soft drinks, alcohol and drinks made from boiled water (tea, coffee) are fine. 不要饮用自来水。瓶装水、软饮料、酒精饮料和用开水制作的饮品（茶、咖啡）都是安全的。
QUICK INFO 快速信息
Crime 犯罪
While rare, if you discover something has been stolen, report it immediately to the 虽然罕见，但如果你发现物品被盗，请立即向
Hospitals 医院
Beijing has a number of excellent international hospitals and clinics, most of which are in Chaoyang. 北京有许多优秀的国际医院和诊所，其中大部分位于朝阳区。
Road Safety 道路安全
The greatest hazard in Beijing really is crossing the road. Traffic comes from all directions; bicycles and electric scooters, in particular, frequently ride the wrong way down streets and on sidewalks, and you can’t hear them coming. Likewise, do not assume that vehicles will stop when the light turns red. Keep your head on a swivel and remember that pedestrians command no respect. 在北京，最大的危险其实是过马路。车辆从四面八方驶来；尤其是自行车和电动滑板车，经常逆向行驶在街道和人行道上，而且你听不到它们靠近的声音。同样地，不要以为红灯时车辆就会停下。时刻保持警惕，记住行人在这里不受尊重。
Pharmacies 药店
Responsible Travel 负责任旅行
Follow these tips to leave a lighter footprint, support local and have a positive impact on communities. 遵循这些建议，留下更轻的足迹，支持本地经济，并对社区产生积极影响。
Mitigation Versus Adaptation 缓解与适应
‘Green’ is the new buzzword in China, and even the most skeptical visitors to Beijing have to acknowledge the improved air quality and vast numbers of hybrid and electric vehicles. While the Chinese government’s dual carbon goal - to achieve peak CO_(2)\mathrm{CO}_{2} emissions by 2030 and carbon neutrality by 2060 - dominates the headlines, the real focus is less on mitigation (reducing CO_(2)\mathrm{CO}_{2} output) and more on adapting to a warming world. “绿色”已成为中国的新流行语，即便是最持怀疑态度的北京游客也不得不承认空气质量的改善以及大量混合动力和电动汽车的出现。虽然中国政府的双碳目标——到 2030 年实现碳排放峰值，到 2060 年实现碳中和——占据了头条新闻，但真正的焦点不在于减缓（减少碳排放），而在于适应一个变暖的世界。
Tourism 旅游
Tourism in China accounts for about 7% of the country’s carbon emissions. According to a McKinsey study, accommodation is tourism’s leading carbon emitter (60%), while transport, particularly air travel, accounts for 38%38 \% of emissions. 中国的旅游业约占全国碳排放量的 7%。根据麦肯锡的一项研究，住宿是旅游业的主要碳排放源（60%），而交通，特别是航空旅行，占 38%38 \% 的排放量。
OUR PICK 我们的选择
Green Hotels 绿色酒店
The most ecofriendly hotels in Beijing, like Hotel Éclat (eclathotels.com), are generally in the luxury category, as these customers are more willing to pay for the added costs. 北京最环保的酒店，如 Hotel Éclat（eclathotels.com），通常属于豪华类别，因为这些顾客更愿意为额外成本付费。
Water Scarcity 水资源短缺
While emissions are a concern, more emphasis is being placed on water security in northern China. The most ambitious water engineering project in human history is the incomplete South-North Water Transfer Project, which connects China’s four main rivers via three separate canals, and has already brought 53 billion cubic metres of water to the parched north during its first phase. 尽管排放问题备受关注，但中国北方更加强调水资源安全。人类历史上最雄心勃勃的水利工程是尚未完工的南水北调工程，它通过三条独立的运河连接中国四大主要河流，并在第一期工程中已经向干旱的北方输送了 530 亿立方米的水。
Recycling 回收
While Beijing trialled household recycling programmes during COVID-19, recycling bins are still treated as regular rubbish bins. 尽管北京在 COVID-19 期间试行了家庭回收计划，但回收箱仍被当作普通垃圾桶使用。
BIKE SHARE 共享单车
Making use of the bike-share system is a great way to get around. 利用共享单车系统是出行的好方法。
Bike lanes are ubiquitous, wide and generally completely separate from car traffic. Additionally, Beijing’s flat landscape makes pedalling a breeze. 自行车道随处可见，宽阔且通常与机动车道完全分离。此外，北京平坦的地形使骑行变得轻松自如。
Hybrid & Electric Vehicles 混合动力与电动汽车
It’s estimated that roughly half of all EVs worldwide are on China’s 据估计，全球约有一半的电动汽车在中国
roads, and Beijing is certainly among the world leaders when it comes to EV and hybrid vehicle adoption. Municipal regulations require all city taxis (approximately 66,000 ) to transition to either an EV or hybrid car by the end of 2025. 道路，北京在电动汽车和混合动力汽车的采用方面无疑是世界领先者之一。市政法规要求所有城市出租车（约 66,000 辆）在 2025 年底前过渡到电动汽车或混合动力汽车。
Likewise, Beijing already had 11,000 electric city buses in 2020, accounting for over 60% of its fleet. If you’re wondering where all these vehicles charge, the capital has also pioneered battery swap stations, where taxis and private cars can install a fully charged battery in minutes. 同样，北京在 2020 年已经拥有 11,000 辆电动城市公交车，占其车队总数的 60%以上。如果你好奇这些车辆都在哪里充电，首都还率先推出了电池更换站，出租车和私家车可以在几分钟内安装一块充满电的电池。
It’s impossible to ignore the impact we have when travelling, and the importance of making changes where we can. Lonely Planet urges all travellers to engage with their travel carbon footprint. Many airlines and booking sites offer travellers the option of offsetting the 我们无法忽视旅行时产生的影响，以及尽可能做出改变的重要性。Lonely Planet 敦促所有旅行者关注他们的旅行碳足迹。许多航空公司和预订网站为旅行者提供了抵消碳排放的选项。
impact of greenhouse gas emissions by contributing to climatefriendly initiatives around the world. 通过支持全球气候友好倡议，减少温室气体排放的影响。
There are many carbon calculators online that allow travellers to estimate the carbon emissions generated by their journey; try resurgence.org using the QR code, right. 网上有许多碳计算器，让旅行者可以估算旅程产生的碳排放量；尝试使用右侧的二维码访问 resurgence.org。
RENEWABLE ENERGY 可再生能源
China has made impressive strides in the renewable energy sector. In 2022 it installed as much solar energy as the rest of the world combined, and in 2024 broke ground on a 6GW wind-and-solar project that will provide power to Beijing. 中国在可再生能源领域取得了令人瞩目的进展。2022 年，中国的太阳能装机容量与全球其他地区的总和相当，2024 年，中国启动了一个 6GW 的风光互补项目，该项目将为北京供电。
Accessible Travel 无障碍旅行
Overview 概述
Beijing has made an effort in recent years to update building codes and improve accessibility for those with mobility issues. However, implementation has been uneven and facilities are not always maintained. The best advice when travelling to China is to join a specialist tour that can fully cater to your needs. 北京近年来努力更新建筑规范，改善行动不便人士的无障碍设施。然而，实施情况参差不齐，设施并不总能得到维护。前往中国旅游时，最好的建议是参加专门满足您需求的特色旅行团。
STREET LEVEL 街道层面
If you’re wheelchair-bound or have mobility issues, Beijing can be a major obstacle course. Sidewalks are often uneven and in a dangerous condition, with high curbs 如果您行动不便或需要轮椅代步，北京可能会成为一座巨大的障碍赛场。人行道常常不平整且存在危险状况，路缘石较高。
preventing wheelchair access. Many streets can be crossed only via underground or 阻止轮椅通行。许多街道只能通过地下或
overhead walkways with steps. Bike lanes are more navigable than sidewalks, though 天桥设有台阶。自行车道比人行道更易通行，不过
they are chaotic and not without risks. Getting around the big sights has improved, but is still challenging in places. Consider taking a collapsible lightweight chair. 它们混乱且并非没有风险。游览主要景点已经有所改善，但在某些地方仍然具有挑战性。考虑携带一把可折叠的轻便椅子。
Taxis & Buses 出租车与公交车
Accessible taxis were once present in Beijing; however, these have since been discontinued. Increasing numbers of city buses, in contrast, do have a wheelchair ramp at the rear door; these may be the simplest way of getting around. 北京曾经提供过无障碍出租车，但这些服务已经停止。相比之下，越来越多的城市公交车在后门配备了轮椅坡道；这些可能是出行的最简单方式。
Subway 地铁
While escalators in subways normally only go up, wheelchair lifts have been installed in numerous stations. However, you may have to find a staff member to operate them. There is no comprehensive list of barrier-free stations. 虽然地铁中的自动扶梯通常只向上运行，但许多车站已安装了轮椅升降机。然而，您可能需要找到工作人员来操作它们。目前尚无无障碍车站的完整列表。
TOILETS
Accessible toilets can be found at major sights, top-end hotels and shopping malls, but squat loos elsewhere, including restaurants and fast-food chains, definitely present a challenge. Come prepared. 无障碍厕所在主要景点、高端酒店和购物中心可以找到，但在其他地方，包括餐厅和快餐连锁店，蹲厕无疑是个挑战。请做好准备。
HOTELS 酒店
Staying at a top-end international chain is recommended, though reach out to the hotel in advance to find out what sort of facilities are really in place. Few Chinese hotels have roll-in showers. 建议入住高端国际连锁酒店，但需提前联系酒店以了解实际提供的设施。很少有中国酒店配备无障碍淋浴间。
Resources 资源
easytourchina.com Two tours designed specifically for those with mobility issues. easytourchina.com 专为行动不便人士设计的两条旅游线路。
Nuts & Bolts
Opening Hours 开放时间
Officially, China has a five-day (Monday to Friday), 40-hour work week. In reality, many business practice the 996 work week, meaning employees work 9am to 9pm for six days. Most major tourist sights close on Mondays. 官方规定，中国实行每周五天（周一至周五）、40 小时的工作制。实际上，许多企业实行 996 工作制，即员工每天从早 9 点工作到晚 9 点，每周工作六天。大多数主要旅游景点在周一关闭。
Banks 9am-5pm Monday to Friday, some open weekends 银行 周一至周五 9am-5pm，部分周末营业
Bars 6pm-2am 酒吧 下午 6 点至凌晨 2 点
Cafes 9am-9pm 咖啡馆 上午 9 点至晚上 9 点
Museums & Temples 8.30am-4.30pm Tuesday to Sunday 博物馆与寺庙 周二至周日 8:30-16:30
Parks 6am-9pm, shorter hours in winter 公园 6am-9pm，冬季开放时间较短
Restaurants 10.30am-2pm, 5-10pm 餐厅 10:30-14:00, 17:00-22:00
Shops 10am-9pm 商店营业时间：上午 10 点至晚上 9 点
QUICK INFO 快速信息
Time zone China Standard Time (GMT/UTC plus eight hours) 时区 中国标准时间（GMT/UTC 加八小时）
City code +010 城市代码 +010
Emergency number 120 紧急电话 120
Population 21.9 million 人口 2190 万
Public Holidays 公共假期
China has seven official public holidays. It’s not a great idea to arrive in China or go travelling during the big holiday periods (Chinese New Year and National Day) as hotel prices reach their maximum and transport can become impossible. 中国有七个法定公共假日。在重大节假日期间（春节和国庆节）到达中国或去旅行并不是个好主意，因为酒店价格会达到最高点，交通也可能变得极为困难。
New Year’s Day 1 January 新年 1 月 1 日
Chinese New Year January or February (a weeklong holiday for most) 中国新年 一月或二月（大多数人的一周长假）
Tomb Sweeping Day 4 or 5 April 清明节 4 月或 5 月
International Labour Day 1 May 国际劳动节 5 月 1 日
Dragon Boat Festival June (one day) 端午节 六月（一天）
Mid-Autumn Festival end of September (one day) 中秋节 九月底（一天）
National Day 1 October (a weeklong holiday for most) 国庆节 10 月 1 日（大多数人有一周的假期）
Toilets 厕所
Generally, toilets at major tourist sights will have seated options, while public WCs in smaller hutong are still squat loos with minimal privacy. Toilet paper is often provided in Beijing (it’s by the sink, not the stall), but keep a stash on you just in case. Throw it in the waste bin, not the toilet. 一般来说，主要旅游景点的厕所会有坐便选项，而较小胡同里的公共厕所仍然是蹲便，且隐私性较差。北京通常提供厕纸（在洗手池旁，不在隔间里），但最好随身携带一些以备不时之需。请将厕纸扔进垃圾桶，而不是马桶。
Hello 你好 Nǐhǎo
Goodbye 再见 Zàijiàn
How are you？你好吗？Nǐhǎo má？ 你好吗？你好吗？Nǐhǎo má？
Fine 好 Hǎo Fine 好 好
And you？你呢？Nĩne？ 你呢？Nĩne？
Please ．．．请．．．Qǐng ．．．
Thank you 谢谢你 Xièxiè nǐ 谢谢你 Xièxiè nǐ
Excuse me 劳驾Láojià 劳驾
Sorry．对不起 Duìbùqǐ 对不起 Duìbùqǐ
Yes 是 Shì
No 不是 Bùshì
Mandarin Chinese－or Pǔtōnghuà（common speech），as it’s referred to by the Chinese－can be written using the Roman alphabet．This system is known as Pinyin；in the following phrases we have provided both Mandarin script and Pinyin． 普通话（Pǔtōnghuà）可以用罗马字母书写。这种系统被称为拼音（Pinyin）；在下面的短语中，我们提供了普通话文字和拼音
Mandarin has＇tonal＇quality－the raising and lowering of pitch on certain syllables．There are four tones in Mandarin，plus a fifth ＇neutral＇tone that you can all but ignore．In Pinyin the tones are indicated with accent marks on vowels：ā（high），á（rising），ă（falling－ rising），à（falling）． 普通话具有“声调”特性——某些音节的音高会升降。普通话有四个声调，加上一个几乎可以忽略的第五“轻声”。在拼音中，声调用元音上的重音符号表示：ā（高平）、á（上升）、ă（降升）、à（下降）
To enhance your trip with a phrasebook，visit lonelyplanet．com． Lonely Planet iPhone phrase－books are available through the Apple App store． 为了用短语手册提升您的旅行体验，请访问 lonelyplanet.com。Lonely Planet iPhone 短语手册可通过 Apple App 商店获取
我要．．．Wǒ yào．．．
a table for two 一张两个人的桌子 yīzhāng liǎnggè rén de 一张两个人的桌子 yīzhāng liǎnggè rén de zhuōzi
zhuōzǐ 桌子
the drink list 酒水单 jiǔshuř dān 酒水单 jiǔshuǐ dān
the menu 菜单 càidān 菜单 càidān
a beer 啤酒 pijiǔ 一杯啤酒
a coffee 咖啡 kāfēi 一杯咖啡 咖啡 kāfēi
I don＇t eat ．．．我不吃．．．Wǒ bùchī ．．． 我不吃．．．Wǒ bùchī ．．．
fish 鱼 yú
poultry 家禽 jiāqín
red meat 牛羊肉 niúyángròu 红肉 牛羊肉 niúyángròu
I＇d like to buy．．．我想买．．．Wǒ xiăng mǎi．．． 我想买．．．Wǒ xiăng mǎi．．．
I＇m just looking．我先看看．Wǒ xiān kànkàn． 我先看看。Wǒ xiān kànkàn
How much is it？多少钱？Duōshăo qián？ 多少钱？多少钱？Duōshăo qián？
That＇s too expensive．太贵了．Tàiguì le． 太贵了。Tàiguì le
Can you lower the price？能便宜一点吗？Néng piànyí yīdiăn má？ 能便宜一点吗？Néng piànyí yīdiăn má？
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Imperial Vault of Heaven｜V＿E／SHUTHERSTOCK（c）
