Lukla to Namche Bazaar
卢克拉到南奇市集镇

StartLukla (2840m/9318ft)FinishNamche Bazaar (3410m/11,188ft)Distance18.5km (11½ miles)Total ascent1240m (4070ft)Total descent670m (2200ft)Time2 days (plus 1 day in Namche)Max altitude3410m (11,188ft) (Namche Bazaar)Min altitude2565m (8415ft) (bridge at Thado Koshigaon)Altitude gain570m (1870ft)
起点 Lukla (2840 米/9318 英尺)终点 Namche Bazaar (3410 米/11,188 英尺)距离 18.5 公里 (11½ 英里)总上升 1240 米 (4070 英尺)总下降 670 米 (2200 英尺)时间 2 天 (加上在 Namche 的一天)最大海拔 3410 米 (11,188 英尺) (Namche Bazaar)最小海拔 2565 米 (8415 英尺) (Thado Koshigaon 桥)海拔增益 570 米 (1870 英尺)

Connected with Kathmandu by regular flights, and situated at an altitude of 2840m (9318ft) on a high terrace above the Dudh Koshi, Lukla is the place where most trekkers start their journey in the Everest Region. Flying here saves at least three days of walking (this will decrease as the road from Salleri is under construction) and a full day by jeep or bus on a bumpy road. Starting from Lukla enables a fairly fit trekker to complete the walk to Everest Base Camp or Kala Patthar and back in 11 days at a reasonable pace, assuring proper acclimatisation. It also opens the Everest Region’s trekking opportunities to those whose time is even more limited, or who are not ready for a trek at high altitude – Namche Bazaar, which is just two days’ walk from Lukla, enjoys fantastic views of Everest and Lhotse among many others, and could be the destination for a short and relatively easy trek. Indeed, often referred to as the ‘Everest View Trek’ with the highest point in Namche or Pangboche, this is on offer by some trekking agencies. However, for most visitors this trek from Lukla to Namche Bazaar forms part of a longer adventure to EBC or Kala Patthar (Trek 3), Gokyo (Trek 4) or even the Three Passes (Trek 5).
通过定期航班与加德满都连接，并位于 Dudh Koshi 上方海拔 2840 米（9318 英尺）的高台上，卢克拉是大多数徒步旅行者在珠穆朗玛峰地区开始他们旅程的地方。飞到这里至少可以节省三天的步行时间（随着从 Salleri 的道路建设，这将减少），并且可以节省一整天在颠簸的道路上乘坐吉普车或公共汽车。从卢克拉出发，一个体力较好的徒步者能够在 11 天内以合理的速度完成往返珠峰大本营或 Kala Patthar 的步行，确保适当的适应过程。这也为那些时间更加有限，或尚未准备好进行高海拔徒步旅行的人们打开了珠穆朗玛峰地区的徒步机会——距离卢克拉仅两天步行路程的南池巴扎，能欣赏到珠穆朗玛峰和洛子峰等的绝佳景观，可以作为一次简短而相对轻松的徒步旅行目的地。的确，这条路线常被称为‘珠峰观景徒步’，最高点在南池或 Pangboche，一些徒步旅行社提供这一选择。 然而，对于大多数游客来说，这段从卢卡拉到南池市场的旅程是到珠峰大本营或卡拉帕塔尔（徒步 3）、戈尤（徒步 4）甚至三道关（徒步 5）较长探险的一部分。

Lukla to Namche Bazaar is usually completed in two days and can be started on the day of arrival from Kathmandu, but as on higher sections of the route, it is important to be mindful of the altitude. The start in Lukla is at an altitude where acclimatisation begins to matter (see ‘Altitude sickness’) and Namche is at an elevation where altitude sickness may even prevent you from going higher. As there is a significant height gain between Jorsale and Namche without any option to sleep between the two places, it is vital to stay in Namche at least two nights. That is what most trekkers do.
从卢克拉到南池大巴扎通常需要两天，可以在从加德满都到达的当天出发，但正如在路线的较高部分一样，注意海拔高度很重要。卢克拉的起点海拔开始影响适应（见“高原反应”），而南池的海拔可能会导致高原反应，甚至阻止您进一步攀升。由于乔萨莱和南池之间存在显著的高度差，并且两地之间没有住宿选择，因此至少在南池停留两个晚上至关重要。这是大多数徒步旅行者的做法。

PROLOGUE
序幕

Flight from Kathmandu to Lukla
从加德满都飞往卢克拉

StartTribhuvan International Airport, Kathmandu (1338m/4390ft)FinishTenzing-Hillary Airport, Lukla (2845m/9334ft)Distance135km (84 miles)Time35min
起点特里布万国际机场，加德满都（1338 米/4390 英尺）终点丹增-希拉里机场，卢卡拉（2845 米/9334 英尺）距离 135 公里（84 英里）时间 35 分钟

The domestic terminal of the Tribhuvan International Airport in Kathmandu is in a separate building from the international terminal. Airlines require passengers to check-in 1hr 30min before their flight is due. It is strongly recommended to arrive no later than that, preferably earlier – around 2hr before the flight. There are extra security measures at this airport and the terminal gets crowded in the peak season mornings with numerous passengers heading for Lukla as well as setting off for the Everest view flights.
加德满都的特里布万国际机场的国内航站楼与国际航站楼在不同的建筑内。航空公司要求乘客在航班预定起飞时间前 1 小时 30 分钟办理登机手续。强烈建议不要晚于这个时间到达，最好提前到达——大约在航班起飞前 2 小时。此机场有额外的安全措施，并且在高峰季节的早晨，航站楼会变得拥挤，众多乘客前往 Lukla 以及启程前往珠穆朗玛峰观景飞行。

All luggage will be x-rayed and your printed ticket along with passport checked at the gate leading into the terminal. Individuals without a ticket for one of the upcoming flights are not allowed inside the terminal. Make sure you receive a security-check sticker placed on your check-in bag. No oxygen or gas cylinders are allowed in the aircraft. In addition to the usual regulations regarding check-in luggage, you are not allowed to have any spare standard AA or AAA batteries in your hand luggage, although such batteries in a camera, GPS, etc or in check-in luggage are fine. If in doubt, ask at the check-in counter. Keep your check-in luggage slip as it will be necessary when collecting your bags on arrival at Lukla. There is a small cafeteria in the waiting hall at the domestic terminal in Kathmandu, but you are recommended to have a bread roll or some fruit with you in preparation for possible flight delays
所有行李将经过 X 光检查，您的打印机票和护照将在通往航站楼的门口进行检查。没有即将航班机票的个人不得进入航站楼。确保在值机行李上贴有安全检查贴纸。飞机上不允许携带氧气或气瓶。除了关于托运行李的常规规定，随身行李中不允许携带备用的标准 AA 或 AAA 电池，不过相机、GPS 等设备中或托运行李中的此类电池可以。如果有疑问，请在值机柜台询问。保留您的托运行李条，因为在卢卡拉到达时领取行李时需要用到。在加德满都的国内航站楼候机厅里有一个小咖啡馆，但建议您准备面包卷或一些水果，以应对可能的航班延误。

Lukla airport with a Tara Air aircraft taking off on a clear autumn morning
卢克拉机场，一架塔拉航空的飞机在一个晴朗的秋晨起飞

Lukla’s airport is often listed among the world’s most dangerous or challenging for a pilot. Inspired by Sir Edmund Hillary, and built in 1964 with the assistance of the Himalayan Trust, it opened for commercial flights in 1971. Located on a mountainside some 700m (2297ft) above the floor of the Dudh Koshi’s valley, the runway is just 20 metres wide and 527 metres in length (66 x 1729ft) with an up-slope gradient of nearly 12% assuring a quick decrease in speed on landing, and helping the aircraft to reach the required speed for take-off before the runway’s end where the slope drops steeply towards the river. It was renamed the Tenzing-Hillary Airport in honour of the two great climbers, shortly after Hillary’s death in 2008. Only helicopters and small short take-off and landing (STOL) aircraft with a limited capacity of 20 passengers may use it.
卢克拉机场经常被列为世界上对飞行员来说最危险或最具挑战性的机场之一。受埃德蒙·希拉里爵士启发，并在喜马拉雅信托基金的协助下于 1964 年建成，1971 年开始商业航班服务。机场位于杜德科西河谷地面上方约 700 米（2297 英尺）山坡上，跑道宽仅 20 米，长度为 527 米（66 x 1729 英尺），具有近 12%的上坡坡度，确保着陆时迅速减速，并帮助飞机在跑道尽头前达到起飞所需的速度，那里斜坡陡峭地向河流方向下降。在希拉里于 2008 年去世后不久，该机场被重新命名为丹增·希拉里机场，向两位伟大的攀登者致敬。只有直升机和载客量限制为 20 人的小型短距起降（STOL）飞机可以使用。

Operation of the airport is weather-dependent. The fixed-wing aircraft on the regular route between Lukla and Kathmandu do not fly when it is cloudy above Lukla. Even if the weather in Kathmandu is perfect, no plane will leave the capital unless the captain receives positive weather confirmation from Lukla. As it is usually windy in the afternoons and clouds develop at noon, flights are scheduled for mornings. Delays are frequent and cancellations do happen. You must always be aware that the trip might be delayed for one, two or even more days. Don’t make your ongoing journey plans too tight. If the flight is cancelled you should be accommodated on the first available flight by the same airline, which usually means you would fly the following day after all the passengers scheduled for that day, plus those who were booked for earlier flights on your scheduled day of travel.
机场的运行取决于天气。在卢卡拉和加德满都之间的定期航线上，固定翼飞机在卢卡拉上空多云时不会飞行。即使加德满都的天气很好，也不会有飞机离开首都，除非机长收到卢卡拉的积极天气确认。由于通常下午有风，中午会有云，因此航班安排在早上。延误是常见的，取消也会发生。您必须始终意识到旅程可能会被延迟一两天甚至更长时间。不要把您的后续行程计划安排得太紧。如果航班被取消，您应该由同一家航空公司安排在第一个可用航班上，这通常意味着在所有当天的乘客以及您原定出发当天较早航班的乘客之后，您将在第二天飞行。

Therefore, the earlier your time of departure, the better will be your chance of flying. If possible, try to book the first flight of a particular airline on a given day. These leave Kathmandu shortly after sunrise, and take about 35min. As you can usually take any seat you want, for better views on the way to Lukla it is recommended you sit at the front of the aircraft on the left-hand side. On arrival the plane rests on the tarmac for only a few minutes, in order to offload passengers and their baggage, and reload for the return to Kathmandu.
因此，你的出发时间越早，飞行的机会就越好。如果可能的话，尽量预订某一航空公司在当天的第一班航班。这些航班在加德满都日出后不久起飞，大约需要 35 分钟。通常情况下，你可以随意选择座位，为了在飞往卢克拉的途中获得更好的视野，建议你坐在飞机左侧的前部。抵达时，飞机在停机坪上只停留几分钟，以便卸下乘客和行李，并重新装载返回加德满都。

It’s true that Lukla’s airport is sometimes closed for a few days in a row. At such times the lodges and airport building become packed with irritated tourists. However, cloudy weather and long delays are less likely in the second half of October, in November, April and the beginning of May which are the peak trekking months – as many as 10,000 passengers flew to Lukla on about 1500 flights during October 2014. The author has so far flown to Lukla on eight occasions and the same number from Lukla to Kathmandu, completing all flights to the mountains on the scheduled day and being delayed on the return to the capital only twice.
确实，卢卡拉机场有时会连续关闭几天。这时，旅馆和机场大楼就会挤满了烦躁的游客。然而，在十月下半月、十一月、四月和五月初这些徒步旅行高峰月份，阴天气候和长时间延误的可能性较小——仅 2014 年 10 月，就有多达 10,000 名乘客通过约 1500 次航班飞往卢卡拉。作者迄今为止已八次飞往卢卡拉，亦八次从卢卡拉飞往加德满都，所有进山的航班均按预定日期完成，仅返回首都时有两次延误。

Several airlines operate the route. Some – including Tara Air and Summit Air (previously Goma) – have a few flights each day including certain aircraft dedicated to this route which will do several additional trips a day in high season. The price is more or less the same for all airlines and was about US$170 for a one-way ticket in 2017. A return ticket costs double. The price usually includes 10kg of checked-in luggage and up to 5kg of hand baggage, with about $1 charged for each kilogram of excess. Limits may apply.
数家航空公司运营这条航线。其中一些——包括 Tara Air 和 Summit Air（以前的 Goma）——每天有几次航班，其中某些飞机专门用于这条航线，在旺季时每天会有几次额外的航班。2017 年，所有航空公司的价格大致相同，单程票约为 170 美元。往返票的价格是单程票的两倍。价格通常包括 10 公斤的托运行李和最多 5 公斤的手提行李，每超出一公斤约收取 1 美元。可能会有限制。

If you are stranded in Lukla for a few days and are desperate to leave, you might try a helicopter. It is significantly more expensive than regular fixed-wing aircraft, but less weather-dependent. Expect to pay around $500 if there are other passengers in the same helicopter. Another option is to walk to Phaplu or Salleri (2–3 days, see Trek 1). There is a road with regular bus or jeep connections with Kathmandu. Phaplu has an airport with regular flights to Kathmandu (ticket prices are similar to those of the Lukla flights). This option will soon become more convenient as the road planned to link Salleri with Surke (about 1hr from Lukla) was under construction at the time of writing.
如果你在卢克拉滞留了几天，并且迫切想离开，你可以尝试乘坐直升飞机。它比普通定翼飞机要贵得多，但不太受天气影响。如果有其他乘客同乘一架直升飞机，预计要支付大约 500 美元。另一个选择是步行到 Phaplu 或 Salleri（2-3 天，参见徒步旅行 1）。那里有连接加德满都的常规巴士或吉普车线路。Phaplu 有一个机场，有定期航班飞往加德满都（票价与卢克拉航班相似）。随着连接 Salleri 和 Surke（距卢克拉约 1 小时）的大道在撰写本文时正在施工中，这个选项很快会变得更加方便。

Tickets for Lukla-Kathmandu flights need to be re-confirmed a day before the flight. Most lodges in Lukla can do the job for you. When visiting Lukla at the start of your trek, it is a good idea to leave a copy of your return ticket at the lodge and book a room for the last night before the flight. Note the lodge manager’s telephone number and call him from Namche on your return. All airlines operating this route have their offices in Lukla. It is possible to buy a ticket there or change the flight date if necessary.
卢克拉-加德满都航班的机票需要在航班前一天重新确认。卢克拉的大多数旅馆可以为您完成这项工作。开始徒步旅行时访问卢克拉，最好将返程机票的复印件留在旅馆，并为航班前的最后一晚预定一个房间。记下旅馆经理的电话号码，并在返回的途中从南池给他打电话。所有在此航线上运营的航空公司在卢克拉都有办公室。如果有必要，可以在那里购买机票或更改航班日期。

SECTION 1
第 1 节

Lukla to Phakding
Lukla 到 Phakding

StartLukla (2840m/9318ft)FinishPhakding (2640m/8661ft)Distance7.5km (4½ miles)Total ascent190m (620ft)Total descent390m (1280ft)Time3hr (3hr for the return)Max altitude2840m (9318ft) (Lukla)Min altitude2565m (8415ft) (bridge at Thado Koshigaon)Altitude loss200m (660ft)
起点 Lukla (2840 米/9318 英尺) 终点 Phakding (2640 米/8661 英尺) 距离 7.5 公里 (4½ 英里) 总上升 190 米 (620 英尺) 总下降 390 米 (1280 英尺) 时间 3 小时 (往返 3 小时) 最大海拔 2840 米 (9318 英尺) (Lukla) 最小海拔 2565 米 (8415 英尺) (Thado Koshigaon 桥) 海拔损失 200 米 (660 英尺)

Arriving at Lukla on a clear morning you will see two significant mountains on the other side of the valley. Nupla (5885m/19,308ft) is further up-valley and Karyolung (6511m/21,362ft) rises above the ridge in front of you. The latter belongs to the Rolwaling Himal; first climbed in 1982, it is rarely visited.
在晴朗的早晨到达卢卡拉时，你会看到山谷对面的两座重要山峰。努普拉（5885 米/19,308 英尺）在更上游，而卡柔隆（6511 米/21,362 英尺）在你面前的山脊上耸立。后者属于 Rolwaling Himal; 首次攀登是在 1982 年，很少有人造访。

Lukla itself is no longer the tiny Sherpa village it was at the time of the first successful expedition to Everest. It is an unprepossessing cluster of guesthouses, lodges, shops and bars with the airport near its southern end. Porters hang around resting between treks or waiting for a new job. Trekkers arriving from Kathmandu stop here just long enough to arrange the necessities, and leave the same day. Those who finish their trek here usually celebrate with dinner at their lodge or at a coffee house or at a bar with pool and music, before catching the flight out next morning.
卢克拉本身已经不再是第一次成功登顶珠穆朗玛峰时那个小小的夏尔巴村庄。它是一个毫无吸引力的旅馆、旅舍、商店和酒吧聚集地，机场位于其南端附近。搬运工在徒步旅行之间休息或等待新工作。来自加德满都的徒步旅行者在这里停留的时间仅够安排必要事项，然后当天离开。那些在这里完成徒步的人通常在他们的旅馆、咖啡馆或带有桌球和音乐的酒吧庆祝晚餐，然后在第二天早上赶乘航班离开。

There are shops where you can buy basic food and equipment, and if you need a porter or a guide and haven’t prearranged one, it is certainly possible to hire one here. Probably the best way to do this is to find a guesthouse where you will stay at the end of your trek, and ask about porters there. See also ‘Trekking with a porter-guide’ and ‘You and your porter’ in this book’s introduction.
这里有商店可以买到基本食品和设备，如果你需要搬运工或向导并且没有事先安排，可以在这里雇一个。最好的方法可能是在你徒步旅行结束时找到你将入住的旅馆，并在那里询问搬运工。另请参阅本书介绍中的“与搬运工一起徒步旅行”和“你和你的搬运工”。

It is a gentle walk between Lukla and Phakding, following the Dhud Koshi up-valley, heading north. As Lukla is situated high above the valley floor the first part of the route leads downwards, reaching an altitude of about 2565m (8415ft) before it starts to ascend to Phakding.
这是从卢克拉到帕克丁的一段轻松步行，沿着杜尔科西河北行。由于卢克拉位于谷底上方较高的地方，路线的第一部分是向下走，达到约 2565 米（8415 英尺）的高度，然后开始上升至帕克丁。

Clothing bank
衣物捐赠箱

Bear in mind for when you have finished your trek and returned to Lukla, that if you want to leave your used – but not totally worn out – boots or clothing, you can either give them to any porters who have been trekking with you, or donate them to the Everest Clothing Bank run with the support of Porters’ Progress UK (www.portersprogressuk.org), located near Lukla airport’s runway, next to Lukla Resort. To get there, walk along the northern side of the runway, aiming downhill. Do not follow the main lane to the right towards Namche, but continue straight down, past the traffic control where you will see the Lukla Resort. Once there turn right.
请记住，当你完成徒步旅行返回卢克拉时，如果你想留下使用过但未完全磨损的靴子或衣物，可以将它们交给任何陪你徒步的搬运工，或捐赠给由 Porters’ Progress UK 支持的珠穆朗玛服装银行，位于靠近卢克拉机场跑道旁的卢克拉度假村。要到达那里，沿着跑道北侧走，往下走。不要沿右边的主道向南池方向走，而是继续直走，经过交通控制处，你会看到卢克拉度假村。到达后右转。

On arriving from Kathmandu, collect your luggage at the small arrivals hall (you will need the slip you were given at check-in) and leave the airport. Pre-arranged porters should be waiting for you at the arrivals or nearby. Walk around the fencing above the runway, keeping it on your left-hand side. As you reach the airport control tower, turn right along Lukla’s main street which is lined with lodges and shops. There’s a police checkpoint near the end of the village where you need to show your passport. If you’re leading a group it’s a good idea to have several copies of a list giving details of members’ names with their passport and visa numbers.You will also be asked to list your valuable electronics here – the reason for this seems unclear, but it is said to prevent theft.
从加德满都抵达后，在小型到达大厅领取行李（您需要在值机时获得的凭证），然后离开机场。预先安排的搬运工应在到达处或附近等候。绕着跑道上方的围栏行走，保持它在您的左手边。当您到达机场控制塔时，沿着卢克拉的主街右转，街道两旁有旅馆和商店。村庄末端附近有一个警察检查站，您需要出示护照。如果您带领团队，最好准备几份列出成员姓名及其护照和签证号码的清单复印件。您还会被要求在这里列出您的贵重电子设备——这样做的原因似乎不明确，但据说是为了防止盗窃。

In the past, those who trekked with a porter or guide had their TIMS cards checked here (independent trekkers obtained a TIMS card at the checkpoint in Chhamuwa, shortly before entering the Sagarmatha National Park on the next stage). However, in autumn 2017 the TIMS card requirement was lifted for trekkers in the Everest Region and new permits were implemented instead (see ‘Trekking formalities’ for more details). They are obtained at the Khumbu Pasanglhamu Rural Municipality Ticket Checking Counter just before the police checkpoint, on the right-hand side. These permits are checked at the police checkpoint in Lukla and on the other checkpoints further along the route. How long the new system will be in place for, it is hard to predict.
过去，和搬运工或导游一起徒步的人会在这里检查他们的 TIMS 卡（独立徒步者在 Chhamuwa 的检查站获取 TIMS 卡，随后在下一阶段进入萨加玛塔国家公园之前）。然而，在 2017 年秋季，珠峰地区取消了对徒步旅行者的 TIMS 卡要求，并实施了新的许可（详情参见“徒步旅行手续”）。这些许可在警察检查站前的 Khumbu Pasanglhamu 乡村市政票务检查柜台右侧获得。这些许可在卢克拉的警察检查站和沿途的其他检查站进行检查。新的系统会持续多久，很难预测。

There is a kani– an entrance archway/gate with a chorten or stupa atop – at the end of the village, near to the checkpoint and ticket counter mentioned earlier. As with all the religious structures you will pass on your trek, you should either walk through the archway or pass along its left-hand side. In a tiny building nearby there’s a large prayer wheel – turn it clockwise for the goodwill of all sentient beings as well as for good luck on your trek.
村子尽头靠近先前提到的检查站和售票处处，有一个卡尼——带有佛塔或佛塔顶的入口拱门/大门。与徒步旅行中你经过的所有宗教建筑一样，你应该穿过拱门或沿着左侧通过。在附近一座小建筑中有一个大转经轮——顺时针转动它，为所有众生的福祉以及徒步旅行的好运。

You soon leave Lukla through a gate and descend to another chorten which commemorates victims of a fatal plane accident that occurred here in 2008. The path is wide and clear all the way now, so ignore an alternative route to the left a few minutes after leaving Lukla.
你很快就会通过一个门离开卢克拉，并下行到另一个纪念碑，纪念 2008 年在此发生致命飞机事故的遇难者。路一直很宽敞、清晰，所以在离开卢克拉几分钟后无视左边的替代路线。

You will pass two or three buildings with a tea-shop just past a little bridge in a side valley, with more houses and fields below the path. Hill Top View Lodge is 40min from Lukla, and about 70 metres beyond it there’s a trail heading left. This is the way to or from Jiri, Salleri and Phaplu (see Trek 1) and is clearly marked for trekkers coming from Namche. A chorten and the Khumbila Guesthouse are found a little further on where another branch of the Jiri trail enters from the left, opposite Ama Dablam Lodge. This isChheplung(2690m/8825ft), a relatively large village with a gompa (monastery) clinging to a cliff above it. Most trekkers who chose to make the longer trek from Jiri or Salleri (Trek 1), rather than approach Lukla by air, will join the main route here, while those who are on their way back from Namche and plan to walk to Jiri or Salleri should turn here and continue along the route described in Trek 1 in the reverse direction.
你会经过两到三座建筑，有一家茶馆刚好在一个侧谷的小桥旁，路径下方有更多房屋和田地。Hill Top View Lodge 距离卢卡（Lukla）约 40 分钟，过后约 70 米有一条岔路向左。这条路是往吉里（Jiri）、萨勒里（Salleri）和法普鲁（Phaplu）的（见徒步路线 1），对于来自纳木齐的徒步者有明显标记。再往前一点有一个佛塔和 Khumbila Guesthouse，另一条吉里小径的分支从左侧进入，与 Ama Dablam Lodge 相对。这是 Chheplung（2690 米/8825 英尺），一个相对较大的村庄，上方的悬崖上有一座寺庙（gompa）。大多数选择从吉里或萨勒里徒步而不是通过飞机抵达卢卡的徒步者会在此加入主路，而从纳木齐返回并计划步行至吉里或萨勒里的徒步者应在此转弯并继续沿徒步路线 1 所述路线反向行进。

A Buddhist temple in Chheplung clings to a rock face
切普隆的一座佛教寺庙依附在岩壁上

After another 1.5km (30min), cross a suspension bridgeabove a landslide. Further along the trail you will cross rivers many times on similar bridges. Please be considerate to those who are uncomfortable on such bridges, and resist the temptation to run or jump when crossing. Allow heavily laden porters to cross first, and do not enter the bridge if packed animals are approaching from the opposite side
再走 1.5 公里（30 分钟），穿过悬空桥梁上的山体滑坡。沿着小径继续前行，你会多次在类似的桥梁上渡过河流。请体谅那些在这样的桥梁上感到不安的人，并抵制在过桥时奔跑或跳跃的诱惑。允许负重的搬运工先通过，如果装载的动物从对面接近，请不要进入桥梁。

You will reach a side valley with the lodges and restaurants of Thado Koshigaon(Thadokoshi) in another 500 metres (20min).
再过 500 米（20 分钟），你将到达一个侧谷，那里有 Thado Koshigaon(Thadokoshi)的小屋和餐馆。

On a clear day Kusum Kanguru(6367m/20,889ft) can be seen at the head of the valley. It is a very difficult mountain whose main summit was climbed solo in 1981 by New Zealander, B Denz. On show from Thado Koshigaon is the mountain’s 1400m (4593ft) high South-West Face, first climbed by two Russians (Ivanov and Ruchkin) in 2013.
在晴朗的日子里，可以在山谷尽头看到 Kusum Kanguru (6367 米/20,889 英尺)。这是一座非常难攀登的山峰，其主峰于 1981 年由新西兰人 B Denz 单人攀登。可以从 Thado Koshigaon 看到的是这座山 1400 米（4593 英尺）高的西南面，首次由两名俄罗斯人（Ivanov 和 Ruchkin）于 2013 年攀登。

The bridgeover the Tado Koshi Khola is at an altitude of about 2565m (8415ft), making this the lowest point of the entire Lukla–EBC trek. Once over, continue on the main trail up a series of stone steps. There are many restaurants and lodges on the way as you pass through the villages of Ghatand Nurning(Yulning). There’s a gompa about 25min from the bridge. Pass along the left side of the prayer wheels and rotate them clockwise as clearly marked by the lama who lives in the gompa. Likewise, keep left where the trail divides many times, passing chortens and elaborately inscribed mani-walls and stone boulders. The white painted letters are in Tibetan script which reads Om mani padme hum– the principal mantra of Buddhism.
塔多科西科拉大桥位于海拔约 2565 米（8415 英尺），这是整个卢卡拉–EBC 徒步旅行的最低点。过桥后，继续沿主路上行，一系列石阶。经过 Ghatand 和 Nurning（Yulning）村庄的途中有很多餐馆和旅馆。离桥约 25 分钟路程有一座寺庙。从转经筒的左侧经过，并按照住在寺庙的喇嘛明确标示的方向顺时针旋转它们。同样，在小路多次分岔的地方保持左侧，经过佛塔和精美刻字的玛尼墙和石块。白色的字母是藏文，读作 Om mani padme hum——这是佛教的主要咒语。

The awe-inspiring south-west face of Kusum Kanguru
库苏姆康格鲁令人敬畏的西南面

A few minutes beyond the gompa you come to the small village of Chhuthawa(2610m/8563ft), and in another 20min note the large Yeti Mountain Home, which belongs to a group of high-quality, high-priced lodgesThere are standard, less fanciful lodges a little further on in Phakding, some of which are run by local Sherpa families.
在经过寺庙几分钟后，你会来到小村庄 Chhuthawa（2610 米/8563 英尺），再走 20 分钟注意到大型 Yeti Mountain Home，它属于一组高质量、高价位的旅馆。在更远一点的 Phakding 有标准的、不那么花哨的旅馆，其中一些是由当地夏尔巴家庭经营的。

Continue to Phakding(2640m/8661ft), a relatively large village situated on both banks of the Dudh Koshi connected by a long suspension bridge. It’s the first overnight stopping place for most group trekkers. There are a few lodges on the true left bank of the river and two or three big ones on the other side. If it’s early and you still feel like walking, it should be fine to continue as there is plenty of accommodation further along the trail towards Namche, with some of the lodges in tranquil sites. As for the altitude, it should be perfectly fine to sleep at around 2800m (9186ft), and as there is a significant altitude gain on the next stage, it should actually aid acclimatisation if you continue for an hour or two up-valley beyond Phakding. Another reason to finish the day somewhere further up the valley is that the earlier you reach the Everest viewpoint on the following day, the better chance you have to enjoy a cloud-free view.
继续前往 Phakding（2640 米/8661 英尺），这是一个相对较大的村庄，坐落在 Dudh Koshi 两岸，由一座长悬桥连接。它是大多数团队徒步旅行者的第一个过夜停留地。河流左岸有几家旅馆，另一边则有两三家较大的旅馆。如果时间还早且你仍然想走路，可以继续前进，因为沿着前往 Namche 的路线上还有很多住宿，其中一些旅馆位于宁静的地点。至于海拔，在大约 2800 米（9186 英尺）高度睡觉应该完全没问题，由于下一阶段海拔增加很大，如果在 Phakding 上游多走一两个小时反而有助于适应海拔。当天在山谷更远处结束的另一个原因是第二天越早到达珠峰观景点，你就越有机会享受到无云的美景。

An important monastery is located above Phakding on the western slope of the valley. According to legend, three brothers came to the Solukhumbu from Tibet some 550 years ago and established three monasteries. The Pema Choling Monasteryhas been moved here from its original location, and is said to be famous for a small statue of the Buddha. Once stolen, it gained weight and proved to be too heavy to be carried across the mountains to Tibet, and was eventually returned to the gompa. The monastery is the main religious centre for all devotees living between Surke (below Lukla) and Jorsale. It suffered extensive damage during the 2015 earthquake but has been rebuilt with support from the Himalayan Sherpa Foundation (HSF). It is a short walk to the monastery from Phakding and the trail starts beyond the village (see the next section). The Panjuing (Pangjung) viewpoint is found above the monastery and according to an information board it takes some 4hr to get there.
在山谷西坡的帕克丁上方有一个重要的寺庙。传说大约 550 年前，三个兄弟从西藏来到索卢库布，并建立了三座寺庙。佩玛却林寺已从其原址迁至此地，据说因一尊小佛像而闻名。当初被盗后，佛像因增重太重，无法被带过山回到西藏，最终归还寺院。该寺庙是位于苏尔克（在卢克拉下方）和卓萨莱之间的所有信徒的主要宗教中心。在 2015 年地震中遭受了严重破坏，但在喜马拉雅夏尔巴基金会（HSF）的支持下已重建。从帕克丁步行到寺庙很短，步道从村庄外开始（见下一节）。班具（潘具）观景台位于寺庙上方，根据信息板显示，到达那里需要约 4 小时。

SECTION 2
第 2 节

Phakding to Namche Bazaar
Phakding 到 Namche Bazaar

StartPhakding (2640m/8661ft)FinishNamche Bazaar (3410m/11,188ft)Distance11km (6¾ miles)Total ascent1050m (3450ft)Total descent280m (920ft)Time6–7hr (4–5hr for the return)Max altitude3410m (11,188ft) (Namche)Min altitude2630m (8629ft) (bridge at Phakding)Altitude gain770m (2530ft)
起点 Phakding (2640 米/8661 英尺) 终点 Namche Bazaar (3410 米/11,188 英尺) 距离 11 公里 (6¾英里) 总爬升 1050 米 (3450 英尺) 总下降 280 米 (920 英尺) 时间 6–7 小时 (返回 4–5 小时) 最大海拔 3410 米 (11,188 英尺) (Namche) 最低海拔 2630 米 (8629 英尺) (Phakding 的桥) 海拔增益 770 米 (2530 英尺)

There are two parts to this section. For 3–3½hrs you will frequently pass villages with many tea- or lunchbreak options. This is the easier part of the day with the path ascending gradually but with a few short steep gradients. At Jorsale (2810m/9219ft), which is a perfect place either for lunch or as an overnight stop for those who did not sleep in Phakding, you will leave habitation for a while. Further on, the route is mostly through forest and is where most of the ascent for this stage is made. Some trekkers will certainly feel the altitude, so it is very important not to hurry – find your rhythm, and walk at a slow, steady pace.
这一部分分为两部分。3 至 3½小时内，你会经过许多村庄，有很多喝茶或吃午餐的选择。这是一天中较容易的一段，路径逐渐上升，但有一些短陡坡。在 Jorsale（2810 米/9219 英尺），这是一个非常适合吃午餐或作为不在 Phakding 过夜的人的过夜停留地，你会暂时离开人居环境。再往前走，路线主要穿过森林，也是这一阶段大多数爬升的地方。一些徒步旅行者肯定会感觉到海拔，所以非常重要的是不要急于求成——找到你的节奏，以缓慢、稳定的步伐行走。

Beyond the main part of Phakding, cross the suspension bridge to the western side of the Dudh Koshi. The bridge marks the lowest point of this stage.Pass between two big lodges on the other side and turn right, up-valley. (Note this point for your return to Lukla as it is easy to miss the turn and you may find yourself on a path that continues down the valley on the wrong bank.) The path is clear and the way should be obvious. Pass a bakery and then, 250 metres beyond the bridge, the trail forks. The main route follows the right branch, ascending gradually, while the path to the left climbs steeply towards the Pema Choling Gompa (see previous section). There is an information board at the fork.
穿过 Phakding 的主要部分，过吊桥到 Dudh Koshi 的西侧。桥的位置是本阶段的最低点。穿过对面的两个大旅馆之间，然后向右转，向山谷上游行进。（注意这一点，以便返回 Lukla 时不要错过转弯，否则可能会走上一条继续沿山谷下行却在错误河岸的小路。）道路清晰，路线应该很明显。经过一个面包店，再往桥前进 250 米，路径分叉。主路线沿右侧分支，逐渐上升，而左侧小径则陡升通向 Pema Choling Gompa（参见前一部分）。在路径分叉处有一个信息牌。

A short section through sparse forest brings you to a few more big lodges at Zamphute(2700m/8858ft), 1km and 20min beyond the Phakding bridge. Another path to Pema Choling Gompa turns off here, while the Himalayan Sherpa Clinic(established by the Himalayan Sherpa Foundation), provides basic emergency treatment and is located to the right of the path. The HSF also has plans to build a hospital here.
穿过稀疏森林的一小段路将带你到达扎姆普特的一些大旅馆（2700 米/8858 英尺），位于帕克丁桥以外 1 公里和 20 分钟的路程。另一条通往 Pema Choling Gompa 的小路在此分开，而喜马拉雅雪巴诊所（由喜马拉雅雪巴基金会建立）提供基础急救治疗，位于小路右侧。HSF 还计划在此建设医院。

Follow the main route to a side valley where a short steep climb on its far side brings you to the village of Toktok(2710m/8891ft) with its few lodges and restaurants.
沿主路线前往一个侧谷，在远侧进行一段短而陡峭的攀登，将带您到达拥有少数旅馆和餐馆的 Toktok 村（2710 米/8891 英尺）。

One of the waterfalls passed en route between Phakding and Bengkar
Phakding 和 Bengkar 之间路线上的一个瀑布之一

A tiny waterfallis passed next, and then the path climbs among trees to gain a view of Thamserku, another six-thousander high above to the right. It will become a familiar sight on the trek to EBC from several different points along the way.
接下来经过一个小瀑布，然后小路在树木中攀升，可以看到塔姆塞尔库，另一座高耸在右边的六千米山峰。在前往 EBC 的徒步旅行中，它会在沿途的几个不同点成为一个熟悉的景象。

Although it was first climbed in 1964, the South-West Face of Thamserku, viewed here, had to wait until the spring of 2014 when two Russian climbers (Gukov and Lonchinsky) reached the top in an eight-day alpine-style attempt.
尽管直到 1964 年才首次被攀登，这里看到的 Thamserku 的西南面直到 2014 年春天才有两名俄罗斯登山者（Gukov 和 Lonchinsky）在一次历时八天的阿尔卑斯风格尝试中到达顶峰。

From the Thamserku viewpoint it is another 600 metres to the first lodge of Bengkar. Then you pass another small and picturesque waterfall, climb a short slope to another guesthouse and descend to enter the main part of Bengkarat 2720m (8924ft).
从 Thamserku 观景点到 Bengkar 的第一家旅馆还有 600 米。然后你会经过另一个小而风景如画的瀑布，爬上一小段坡到另一家旅馆，然后下降进入海拔 2720 米（8924 英尺）Bengkar 的主要部分。

Cross the bridgeat the end of the village to return to the true left (E) bank of the Dudh Koshi. A few minutes from here, the sacred mountain of Khumbi Yul Lha (Khumbila; 5761m/18,901ft) may be seen up-valley to the north on a clear day. Khumjung village is located directly below the rocky part of the mountain and Namche Bazaar in the basin below that. Neither village can be seen from here, but you can see the trail that carries the route between Namche and Pangboche.
穿过村子尽头的桥，回到杜德·科西的真正左岸（东岸）。从这里出发几分钟，就可以在晴朗的日子里看到北面的库姆比尤拉山（Khumbila；5761 米/18901 英尺）的神圣山峰。库姆仁村直接位于山的岩石部分下方，而南池集市在其下方的盆地中。从这里看不到这两个村庄，但可以看到连接南池和 Pangboche 路线的小径。

Khumbi Yul Lhahas never been climbed, as the deity said to live there is believed by Sherpas to be the main guardian of the Khumbu region. The name means ‘Khumbu country god’, and as with all the protector deities, he must be respected by various rituals that include the burning of incense from local plants. Failure to do so might mean he would cease to protect the land, the local community and its religion.
Khumbi Yul Lhahas 从未被攀登过，因为住在那里的神灵据说是谢尔帕人认为昆布地区的主要守护者。这个名字的意思是“昆布地方神”，并且像所有的守护神一样，必须通过包括燃烧当地植物香的各种仪式来尊重他。如果不这样做，可能意味着他将不再保护这片土地、当地社区及其宗教。

Khumbi Yul Lha is a sacred mountain for Sherpa people
Khumbi Yul Lha 是夏尔巴人的圣山

Chhamuwa(Chhuma) is the next village (2770m/9088ft), reached about 500 metres from the Dudh Koshi bridge. A TIMS card checkpoint used to be here. It was closed when the formal requirements for trekkers were changed in autumn 2017 – whether for good or temporarily remains to be seen. In the past, individual trekkers were able to buy their TIMS cards here. (See ‘Trekking formalities’ for more details.)
Chhamuwa(Chhuma)是下一个村庄（2770 米/9088 英尺），距离 Dudh Koshi 桥约 500 米。过去这里有一个 TIMS 卡检查站。2017 年秋季，当徒步旅行者的正式要求发生变化时，这里被关闭——永久关闭还是暂时关闭还有待观察。以前，个人徒步旅行者可以在这里购买他们的 TIMS 卡。（详情见“徒步旅行手续”。）

A short, steep descent takes you over a small bridgecrossing a side stream, beside which there are some traditional watermills. As soon as you negotiate a short climb, you reach Monjo(2850m/9350ft) – another village with a few lodges. The Sagarmatha National Park checkpoint is at the end of the village; if you did not buy an entry permit in Kathmandu, you must buy one here – at present it costs 3390NPR. It will need to be shown on a number of occasions after you pass through the entrance to the Park, so keep it safe.
你将进行一次简短而陡峭的下降，经过一个小桥，跨过一条支流，旁边有一些传统的水磨。你只需稍稍攀爬，就到达了 Monjo (2850 米/9350 英尺)——另一个有一些旅馆的村庄。萨加玛塔国家公园的检查站位于村子的尽头；如果你没有在加德满都购买入园许可证，你必须在这里购买——目前费用为 3390 尼泊尔卢比。进入公园后将在多个场合需要出示它，所以请妥善保管。

Enter through a traditional kani(archway), descend steeply to the first buildings of Jorsaleand then cross the Dudh Koshi once more on a suspension bridgethat brings you to the main part of the village at 2810m (9219ft). There are several guesthouses and restaurants, and some have pleasant terraces overlooking the river. This is the last opportunity for lunch or accommodation before Namche (3–3½hrs away).
通过传统的 kani（拱门）进入，陡降至 Jorsale 的第一座建筑，然后再次穿过 Dudh Koshi 上的吊桥，到达海拔 2810 米（9219 英尺）的村庄主要部分。这里有几家旅馆和餐馆，有些餐馆还有可以俯瞰河流的休闲露台。这是前往 Namche（3-3½小时路程）前最后的午餐或住宿机会。

The route returns to the eastern side of the river by another suspension bridgejust 100 metres beyond the last building of Jorsale.
这条路线通过另一座吊桥返回到河的东侧，吊桥位于 Jorsale 最后一栋建筑 100 米之外。

The valley forks 1km beyond the bridge. It is the first of three major forks in the valleybetween Lukla and EBC. The Bothe Koshi flows from the NW (the left-hand side as you approach up-valley). At its headwaters, the Nangpa La is a major pass used as the main trade route with Tibet until it was closed following the Chinese invasion. It was across this pass that Sherpas migrated to Solukhumbu from Kham in eastern Tibet from the 15th century on. The important village of Thame lies up this valley, and the Renjo La is found in its upper part – the last pass on the route of the Three Passes Trek (Trek 5).
山谷在桥的 1 公里之外岔开。这是 Lukla 和 EBC 之间山谷中三个主要岔口中的第一个。Bothe Koshi 从西北流来（当你朝山谷上游走时在左侧）。在其源头，Nangpa La 是一个主要的通道，曾作为与西藏之间的主要贸易路线，直到中国入侵后关闭。夏尔巴人就是通过这个通道从东藏的康区迁移到索卢坤布，从 15 世纪开始。重要的 Thame 村庄就在这个山谷中，而 Renjo La 位于其上部——是三大关口路线（Trek 5）上的最后一个关口。

Towards the north is the Dudh Koshi with Everest, Lhotse and the famous Khumbu Glacier further up-river. Namche Bazaar stands between the two tributaries, about 600m above their confluence on the western side of the Dudh Koshi. (This confluence marks the boundary of the Khumbu region.)
向北是杜德科西河，拥有珠穆朗玛峰、洛子峰和著名的昆布冰川更上游。南池巴扎位于两条支流之间，约高出它们在杜德科西西侧汇合处 600 米。（这个汇合处标志着昆布地区的边界。）

Once you’ve crossed the second of the Jorsale bridges you have a choice of routes to consider before starting the climb to Namche. The trail to the left is the more frequently chosen option. It stays low near the river, before climbing steeply just past the confluence of the Bhote Koshi and Dudh Koshi, to join with the alternative path at about 2930m (9613ft) where you finally cross the Dudh Koshi to its western side once more by a very high suspension bridge. The other trail from the Jorsale bridge goes straight ahead up stone steps to begin a longer option. This follows a high, undulating route among trees – normally a tranquil walk with fewer trekkers and pack animals. Unless it is late, the author’s favoured route is this second option, as every minute spent at an intermediate altitude seems to aid acclimatisation; on the return to Lukla the shorter alternative may be preferable.
一旦你跨过第二座 Jorsale 桥，你可以选择不同的路线以考虑在开始攀登 Namche 之前。左边的小路是更常被选择的选项。它保持在靠近河流处，在通过 Bhote Koshi 和 Dudh Koshi 汇合处之后陡然攀升，在约 2930 米（9613 英尺）处与另一条路径汇合，然后再次通过一座非常高的悬索桥跨过 Dudh Koshi 到其西侧。另一条从 Jorsale 桥出发的小路则是直接向前，上石阶，开始一条较长的路线。这条路穿行于树木间，是一条高而起伏的路线——通常是个安静的旅行，行人和驮畜较少。除非时间很晚，作者偏爱的路线是第二个选项，因为在中等海拔上花费的每一分钟似乎都有助于适应；回程 Lukla 时，可能更倾向于较短的选择。

Suspension bridge high above the Dudh Koshi
杜德科西河上方的高悬桥

The two trails combine just before the suspension bridgethat stretches some 50m above the Dhud Koshi river. In fact there are two bridges – the other one, rarely used now, is just below you. Once across the bridge, look back (facing SE) and you should be able to see Kusum Kanguru (clouds permitting), while up-valley towards the north, Taboche can be seen – this will be a frequent companion in the days ahead.
两条小径在悬索桥前汇合，该桥横跨在杜德科西河上方约 50 米。事实上有两座桥——另一座桥现在很少使用，就在你下方。一旦过了桥，回头看（面对东南方向），你应该能看到库斯姆康格鲁（如果天气晴朗），而在向北的上游方向，可以看到塔博切——在接下来的几天中，这将是个常见的伙伴。

It is now time to tackle the long, steep climb that leads to Namche Bazaar. It takes about 45min to reach a place where you will probably want to have a rest. There is a toilet and a few local women sell fruit here, but the real reason to cheer is the first view of Everest for those who began their trek at Lukla.
现在是时候去迎接通往南池集市的漫长陡峭攀登了。大约需要 45 分钟到达一个你可能想休息的地方。这里有一个厕所，还有一些当地妇女在卖水果，但真正让人高兴的原因是第一次看到珠穆朗玛峰，这是从卢卡拉开始徒步的人们的第一次。

It is only a narrow view between trees; a long ridge joining Lhotse (8516m/27,940ft) on the right with Nuptse (7861m/25,791ft) on the left. Rising majestically above that ridge – high and monumental – is Everest. Just imagine the scale – you are standing at about 3130m (10,269ft); the lowest point on the ridge is at 7545m (24,754ft) and the top of Everest is more than 1300m (4265ft) above that! The South Summit and the Hillary Step are both well seen if you have binoculars or a tele-lens. If it’s cloudy, hope for better luck on your return.
在树木之间的视野很狭窄；一条长长的山脊将洛子峰（8516 米/27,940 英尺）和努子峰（7861 米/25,791 英尺）连接起来。高大而雄伟地矗立在那道山脊之上的是珠穆朗玛峰。想象一下规模——你站在大约 3130 米（10,269 英尺）的地方；山脊的最低点在 7545 米（24,754 英尺），而珠穆朗玛峰的顶部则在 1300 米（4,265 英尺）以上！如果有望远镜或长焦镜头，可以清晰地看到南峰和希拉里台阶。如果有云，希望回程时运气更好。

Trekkers lucky enough to have a clear sky will be treated to this view of Everest
运气好的徒步旅行者在晴朗的天空下将看到这样的珠穆朗玛峰景色

Continue the climb through forest. There is another excuse to stop for a rest 200m higher (35min) at the checkpointwhere you need to show both your National Park permit and the Rural Municipality Ticket. Beyond the checkpoint the gradient eases, and in another few minutes you reach the first house of Namche
继续穿过森林攀登。在高出 200 米（35 分钟）处有另一个借口可以停下来休息，在检查站需要出示您的国家公园许可证和农村市票。过了检查站，坡度变缓，再过几分钟就到达南池的第一所房子。

The trail forks 100 metres past this house. The right branch climbs steps that lead to the middle part of the village where the main bazaar is located. Take this one if the lodge of your choice is in the upper part of the settlement and you know the way. The left branch curves round a descending ridge and provides an almost complete view of Namche Bazaar, built in a horseshoe with a big stupa and a long mani-wall at the centre. Ahead of you a kanimarks the village entrance. Namche’s gompa (monastery) is above you on your left. The trail to the left of the gompa leads to the helipad and eventually to the village of Thame, while the easiest way to Namche’s main market and the upper part of the village is beside the stream on a rising path with recently built fountains and water-driven prayer wheels. The way towards EBC is along that way too and then uphill to the right.
小径在这栋房子前 100 米处分叉。 右边的路分支上有台阶，通往村庄中部，主要集市所在地。如果您选择的旅馆位于定居点的上部并且您知道路，请选择这条路。 左边的路蜿蜒绕过一个下坡的山脊，几乎可以完全看到南彻巴扎（Namche Bazaar），那里以马蹄形建造，中间有一个大佛塔和长长的玛尼墙。在您前方的是 Kani 标志，标志着村庄入口。南彻的寺庙（Gompa）在您左方的上面。寺庙左侧的小径通向直升机停机坪，并最终到达 Thame 村，而通往南彻主要市场和村庄上部的最简单路径是在溪边的一条上行小路，那里有新建的喷泉和水力驱动的转经轮。前往 EBC 的路也是沿着那条路，然后向右上坡。

There are so many guesthouse options in Namche, ranging in size and standard, that you’re really spoilt for choice. If the trek from Lukla is your first at altitude this season, remember that you are not yet acclimatised, so it is probably better to stay at one of the lower lodges. Take a good rest and save the experience of roaming the bazaar for tomorrow, when you will have plenty of time. Drink a lot, but avoid alcohol and coffee.
南奇有很多旅馆选择，规模和标准各不相同，你可以说是选择多多。如果从卢克拉的徒步旅行是你本赛季第一次在高海拔地区进行，记住你还没有适应高原气候，所以最好住在较低的旅馆。好好休息一下，把逛集市的经历留到明天，那时你会有充足的时间。多喝水，但要避免酒精和咖啡。

Return from Namche to Lukla (18.5km/11½ miles, 670m/2200ft ascent, 1240m/4070ft descent, 7–8hr)
从南池返回卢克拉（18.5 公里/11½英里，670 米/2200 英尺上升，1240 米/4070 英尺下降，7-8 小时）

Unless you opt for a helicopter flight, which could probably be arranged at your lodge in Namche, there are no other options for a return to Lukla than to retrace your steps. This can usually be managed in a single, long day with an early start being crucial. If you have arrived early in Namche on the return leg of a trek, it would be better to continue to Jorsale, as this would make the final stretch to Lukla shorter and easier. Jorsale is a pleasant, tranquil place to stay.
除非您选择乘坐直升飞机，这可能可以在您位于南池的旅馆安排，否则返回卢卡拉没有其他选择，唯有原路返回。这通常可以在一天内完成，提前出发是关键。如果您在徒步返回南池的途中早早到达，最好继续前往 Jorsale，这样会让到卢卡拉的最后一段旅程更短更容易。Jorsale 是一个宜人宁静的住宿地。

If your plan is to fly from Lukla to Kathmandu the following day, remember to reconfirm your ticket. But if you are not flying to Kathmandu, there is no need to go to Lukla. Take the right fork in Chheplung for the way to Jiri, Salleri and Phaplu (see Section 1)
如果你计划第二天从卢克拉飞往加德满都，记得重新确认你的机票。但如果你不是飞往加德满都，则无需前往卢克拉。在切普隆路口选择通往吉里、萨勒里和法普卢的右岔路（见第 1 节）。

TIME IN NAMCHE BAZAAR
南池市场的时间

According to the rules for proper acclimatisation, the daily altitude gain for those not yet acclimatised should be no greater than 300m (www.medex.org.uk) or 300–500m (UIAA and ISMM advice) for each stage of ascent above 2500m (8202ft). If this rule cannot be fulfilled, it is recommended to sleep at the same altitude for at least two successive nights. (Refer to ‘Altitude sickness’ in this guide’s introduction for more information on the possible hazards of being at altitude.) Even if you slept in Jorsale, the last point where accommodation was available before Namche, you will have ascended 600m. It is therefore strongly recommended that you spend at least two nights in Namche before setting out for the higher parts of the Khumbu. If you feel unwell (again, see ‘Altitude sickness’ for details of which symptoms are acceptable and which are dangerous), devote the day to a good rest. Otherwise, take a walk to a higher elevation to fulfil one of the golden rules of acclimatisation: go high, sleep low.
根据正确适应的规则，对于尚未适应的人，每个阶段在海拔 2500 米（8202 英尺）以上的攀升，每日海拔增加不应超过 300 米（www.medex.org.uk）或 300–500 米（UIAA 和 ISMM 建议）。如果无法遵循此规则，建议至少连续两个晚上在相同海拔睡觉。（有关高海拔可能危险的更多信息，请参阅本指南介绍中的‘高原反应’。）即使你在 Jorsale（在 Namche 之前的最后一个有住宿的地方）过夜，你也已经上升了 600 米。因此强烈建议在出发前往 Khumbu 更高地区之前，在 Namche 停留至少两个晚上。如果感到不适（再次参阅‘高原反应’以了解哪些症状可以接受，哪些是危险的），请花一天时间好好休息。否则，进行一次去更高海拔地区的徒步以实现适应的一个黄金规则：爬高，睡低。

A trip to Khumjung, which is a picturesque, traditional Sherpa village, is one option. You could combine it with a visit to the National Park Centre, Sherpa Museum, Hotel Everest View and Khunde, which is another nice village near Khumjung. Another option is a full day’s trek to Thamo and Thame villages.
一次前往 Khumjung 的旅行，该地是一个风景如画的传统夏尔巴村庄，是一个选择。你可以将其与参观国家公园中心、夏尔巴博物馆、Hotel Everest View 以及邻近 Khumjung 的另一个美丽村庄 Khunde 结合起来。另一个选择是全天徒步至 Thamo 和 Thame 村庄。

Namche Bazaar enjoys stunning views. As afternoons are often cloudy, it’s possible that you will have seen nothing spectacular when you arrived. Don’t despair – it might clear up at sunset, and mornings are usually clear, so do not miss the early hours of the day!
南池市集享有壮丽的景色。由于午后经常多云，当您到达时可能没有看到壮观的景色。不要绝望——日落时可能会转晴，而且通常早晨天气晴朗，所以不要错过一天的早晨！

When looking south-west from Namche, the mountain with many peaks immediately ahead and on the far side of the Bhote Koshi is Kongde Ri. From the left there’s Nupla (5885m/19,308ft) which you might have seen from Lukla, then right of the long ridge is Shar (Tartikha; 6093m/19,990ft), Lho (Kongde; 6168m/20,236ft) and Nup (6035m/19,800ft). From the upper part of Namche there is one more peak on show up the Bhote Koshi valley to the west – Tengi Ragi Tau (Angole; 6943m/22,779ft). All these mountains belong to the Rolwaling Himal. You might also be able to see the roofs of some buildings high up to the left of Nupla. This is Kongde Yeti Mountain Home, a high-quality lodge which, at 4250m (13,944ft), has one of the most scenic locations on the planet.
从南池向西南方向看，博特科西河对面正前方的多峰山是 Kongde Ri。从左边可以看到 Nupla（5885 米/19,308 英尺），你可能在 Lukla 见过，然后是长山脊右侧的 Shar（Tartikha；6093 米/19,990 英尺）、Lho（Kongde；6168 米/20,236 英尺）和 Nup（6035 米/19,800 英尺）。从南池的上部可以看到在博特科西谷西边的另一个山峰——Tengi Ragi Tau（Angole；6943 米/22,779 英尺）。所有这些山都属于 Rolwaling Himal。你可能还可以看到 Nupla 左边高处一些建筑的屋顶。这里是 Kongde Yeti Mountain Home，这是一家高品质的小屋，坐落在 4250 米（13,944 英尺）的高度，拥有地球上最美的景色之一。

Kusum Kanguru (to the south-east) and Thamserku (east) are both clearly seen from Namche across the far side of the Dudh Koshi. However, what you probably wish to see is Everest. And yes, there are places in Namche where it is possible…
从南坡的纳姆切可以清晰地看到库苏姆康卡鲁（东南）和塔姆索库（东）。然而，你可能希望看到的是珠穆朗玛峰。是的，在纳姆切有一些地方可以看到……

Sherpa Museum, National Park Centre, Hotel Everest View and Khumjung
夏尔巴博物馆、国家公园中心、埃弗勒斯特景观酒店和库姆忠

Take the path with the stone steps by the stream from the main stupa at the lowest part of Namche. Rising past the main bazaar, keeping straight and up all the way, you arrive at the Tashi Delek and Moonlight lodges at about 3475m (11,400ft), where the path turns right (still rising). At the fork take the left branch which rises to an important junction. The main route to Khumjung and EBC is the left branch; but ignore this and go straight ahead following signs to the National Park Headquarters. You will pass the Sherpa Saga Sanctuary and Sherpa Culture Museumon your left. It is a private centre which includes a traditional Sherpa house as well as a photographic exhibition documenting Sherpa culture, festivals, and photographs of Sherpa climbers who summited Everest. The place was established by Lhakpa Sonam Sherpa and run by him and his wife Ang Kanchi. Lhakpa Sonam is a fine photographer, many of whose amazing panoramas are on sale in the centre. The place is definitely worth your attention, but you are also recommended to go to the Sagarmatha National Park Headquarters– straight ahead, on the hill – which is a fantastic viewpoint. The earlier you arrive there, the better your chance of having clear and distant views.
从纳木齐最下面的大佛塔沿着溪流旁的石阶小路出发，经过主要集市，一直向上走，你会到达约 3475 米（11,400 英尺）的 Tashi Delek 和 Moonlight 客栈，路径在此处向右转（仍在上升）。在岔路口选择左边的分支，继续上升到一个重要的交叉口。通往 Khumjung 和 EBC 的主要路线是左边的分支，但忽略这个，直接向前走，跟随通往国家公园总部的指示标志。你会经过左手边的 Sherpa Saga Sanctuary 和 Sherpa 文化博物馆。这是一个私人中心，包括一个传统的 Sherpa 房屋以及记录 Sherpa 文化、节日和登顶珠峰的 Sherpa 登山者照片的图片展览。该地由 Lhakpa Sonam Sherpa 建立，并由他和他的妻子 Ang Kanchi 经营。Lhakpa Sonam 是一位优秀的摄影师，许多壮观的全景图都在中心出售。这个地方绝对值得你关注，但也建议你前往萨加玛塔国家公园总部——就在前方的小山上——这是一个绝佳的观景点。 你越早到达那里，就越有机会看到清晰而遥远的景色。

As you reach the top of the hill the view opens towards the north along the Dudh Koshi and Imja Khola valleys, with Taboche (Tawetse; 6495m/21,309ft) on the left and Ama Dablam (6812m/22,349ft) – considered by many to be the most beautiful in the region – on the right. Between them, at the end of the valley, is the impressive South Face of Lhotse (8516m/27,940ft), from whose top the ridge stretches left to Nuptse (7861m/25,791ft). The summit of Everest rises behind this ridge, overlooking them all. It would be difficult to imagine a better site for the statue of Tenzing Norgaywho, together with Sir Edmund Hillary, made the first successful ascent of Mount Everest and of whom the Sherpas are so proud.
当你到达山顶时，视野向北打开，沿着杜德科西河和因贾科拉山谷延伸，左边是塔波切（Tawetse；6495 米/21,309 英尺），右边是被许多人认为是该地区最美丽的阿玛达布拉姆（6812 米/22,349 英尺）。在它们之间，山谷的尽头是令人印象深刻的洛子峰南壁（8516 米/27,940 英尺），从顶部的山脊向左延伸至努子峰（7861 米/25,791 英尺）。珠穆朗玛峰的峰顶在这条山脊后面升起，俯瞰着这些山峰。很难想象一个比这更好的地方来安放丹增·诺尔盖的雕像，他与埃德蒙·希拉里爵士一起首次成功登顶珠穆朗玛峰，而夏尔巴人对此感到非常自豪。

Statue of Tenzing Norgay, with Everest and then Lhotse to the right
丹增·诺尔盖雕像，右侧是珠穆朗玛峰和洛子峰

To visit Khumjung, return to the major trail junction below the Sherpa Saga Sanctuary, and turn right to follow the main route towards EBC. Soon you will reach a large boulder with mani inscriptions at 3535m (11,598ft). The trail divides again behind it. The route which begins the next stage of the main trail to EBC is to the right, but for Khumjung you climb steeply up the ridge in front of you. The path brings you to the Syangboche airstrip (not in use) after 30–40min. Continue straight on, passing the ‘Sagarmatha Next’ cultural and ecological centre, which was under construction in autumn 2017, up and then slightly to the right to reach the Everest Sherpa Resort located at about 3840m (12,598ft). Take the path to the right at the gate of the guesthouse. Soon a footpath contours to the left (NNE) behind the guesthouse, along the steep slope, high above the main trail leading to EBC. Follow it for about 20min to reach Hotel Everest View(3880m/12,730ft).
为了参观 Khumjung，返回到 Sherpa Saga Sanctuary 以下的主要小路交叉口，然后右转，沿主路线前往 EBC。不久，您会到达海拔 3535 米（11,598 英尺）的刻有玛尼铭文的大石块。小径在它后面再次分开。开始 EBC 主路下一段的路线在右边，但到 Khumjung 则沿您面前的山脊陡峭上行。小路在 30-40 分钟后将您带到 Syangboche 机场（未使用）。继续直行，经过正在建设中的“Sagarmatha Next”文化和生态中心（2017 年秋季），然后稍向右到达位于大约海拔 3840 米（12,598 英尺）的 Everest Sherpa Resort。沿旅馆门口的路径向右走。不久，一条小路沿着陡峭的斜坡向左（NNE）绕过旅馆，高于通往 EBC 的主要小路。沿着它走大约 20 分钟即可到达 Hotel Everest View（3880 米/12,730 英尺）。

Designed by a Japanese architect, the hotel was built in the late 1960s with an enormous amount of effort from porters who carried most of the materials here on their backs (the rest were transported by helicopter); some were imported from Japan. Finally opened in 1971, it was listed in the 2004 Guinness Book of World Recordsas the Highest Placed Hotel.
这家酒店由一位日本建筑师设计，建于 20 世纪 60 年代末，建造过程中勤杂工们付出了巨大努力，用背负方式将大部分材料运至此地（其余的通过直升机运输）；有些材料是从日本进口的。酒店最终于 1971 年开业，并在 2004 年被列入《吉尼斯世界纪录大全》作为海拔最高的酒店。

Facing the hotel, take the path heading N (left) among rhododendrons and pine trees, along a ridge which soon makes a gradual descent with Khumjungvillage seen just below on the left. Do not miss the chortenon your right, which is dedicated to the memory of Sir Edmund Hillary, who worked for many years for the well-being of the people of Solukhumbu and is highly respected by the Sherpas.
面朝酒店，沿着杜鹃花和松树之间的路径向北（左）走，这条小径沿着山脊，随后逐渐下降，可以看到左下方的 Khumjung 村。不要错过右边的 chorten，这是为了纪念 Edmund Hillary 爵士而建，他多年来致力于 Solukhumbu 人民的福祉，深受夏尔巴人的尊敬。

From the village, the main route to EBC can be accessed near Sanasa by going down-valley to the right. To return to Namche, follow the main street in Khumjung to the left. There are a number of lodges and restaurants along the way. As you are at around 3765m (12,352ft) now, an hour or two spent here before returning to Namche should aid acclimatisation.
从村庄出发，可以通过下山到右边的 Sanasa 附近的主要路线去往 EBC。要返回南池，沿着 Khumjung 的主街向左走。沿途有许多小屋和餐馆。由于你现在大约在 3765 米（12,352 英尺）的高度，在返回南池之前在这里停留一两个小时应有助于适应高海拔。

Continue along the main street of Khumjung to a stupa and a long mani-wall. The Hillary School, founded by the Himalayan Trust, stands next to it with a statueof its founder and patron. If you continue straight ahead you would reach Khunde– another picturesque Sherpa village, in which the first hospital built with the help of Hillary and the Himalayan Trust is found. For Namche turn left by the mani-wall, and then steeply up to a chorten on a pass on the ridge between Khumjung and Syangboche. This is another great viewpoint at 3845m (12,615ft).
沿着 Khumjung 的主街继续走到一个佛塔和一面长长的玛尼墙。由 Himalayan Trust 创立的 Hillary School 就在旁边，旁边还有创办人和赞助人的雕像。如果你继续直行，你将到达 Khunde——另一个风景如画的夏尔巴村，Hillary 和 Himalayan Trust 建造的第一家医院就在这里。去 Namche 的话，在玛尼墙转左，然后陡上至位于 Khumjung 和 Syangboche 之间山脊的一个垭口上的佛塔。这是一个海拔 3845 米（12,615 英尺）的绝佳观景点。

A steep descent soon brings you to the Syangbocheairstrip. Continue ahead past two or three houses, and take the left branch at the fork which is just behind them. Namche appears below, and there’s yet another steep descent to reach it.
很快的陡峭下降会带你到 Syangbocheairstrip。继续往前走，经过两三栋房子，然后在它们后面的岔路口处走左边。Namche 出现在下方，你要再次陡峭下降才能到达那里。

Lhotse, seen from the pass between Khumjung and Syangboche. Everest is on the left, behind the tree
从 Khumjung 和 Syangboche 之间的山口看到 Lhotse。珠穆朗玛峰在左边，树的后面。

Thamo and Thame
Thamo 和 Thame

A visit to the villages of Thamo and Thame in the Bhote Khola’s valley is another option for an acclimatisation day spent near Namche. However, it is not for those who want an easy or restful day: the walk from Namche to Thame takes 4–4½hr over a distance of 9km (5½ miles), involving a gain of 390m (1280ft), about 665m of ascent (2180ft) and 275m (900ft) of descent; while the return will take around 3hr. Therefore a return trip that includes a lunchbreak in Thame (3800m/12,467ft), and a visit to its monastery, would require a full day. Should you plan to cross the Renjo La (see Trek 5) you will be in Thame (Thami) anyway, but the village and the Bhote Koshi valley are worth the attention of other trekkers too. One of the oldest of the Solukhumbu monasteries is located in Thame. There’s another one in Thamo – a village on the way to Thame – and a few more off the main trail nearby, signed from the main route. Those interested in Buddhism could easily spend a few days here. As both Thame and its monastery were among the most severely affected by the earthquake in this region, this could be another reason to visit as by spending time there you help the local community. Most of the lodges have now been rebuilt, so accommodation is available if you have some spare time, either on the way to Kala Patthar and EBC or on the return.
参观博特孔拉山谷的塔莫和塔梅村是纳木齐附近适应性日的另一个选择。然而，这并不适合那些希望轻松或休息日的人：从纳木齐到塔梅的步行需要 4 到 4½小时，距离为 9 公里（5½英里），海拔上升 390 米（1280 英尺），大约 665 米的上升（2180 英尺）和 275 米（900 英尺）的下降；而返回行程大约需要 3 小时。因此，包括在塔梅（3800 米/12,467 英尺）吃午饭和参观它的寺庙的一日往返行程需要整整一天。如果你计划穿越 Renjo La（见徒步旅行 5），你无论如何都会在塔梅（Thami），但村庄和博特科西山谷也值得其他徒步旅行者的关注。索卢昆布地区最古老的寺庙之一位于塔梅。塔莫——一个去塔梅的途中村庄——还有另一座寺庙，主路附近还有一些标记在主路的其他寺庙。那些对佛教感兴趣的人可以在这里轻松度过几天。由于塔梅及其寺庙是该地区地震中受影响最严重的之一，因此访问它们也是另一个理由，因为在那里度过的时间可以帮助当地社区。 现在大多数旅馆已经重建，因此如果您有一些空闲时间，可以在前往 Kala Patthar 和 EBC 的途中或返回时入住。

Tenzing Norgay once lived in Thame, and Apa Sherpa (in full, Lhakpa Tenzing Sherpa) was born here. Known as Super Sherpa, Apa climbed Everest for the 11th time in 2000, establishing a new record. Since then he has broken his own record several times, before reaching 21 ascents in May 2011. This was equalled by Phurba Tashi Sherpa in 2013 and to date (January 2017) this latest record has not been broken. Apa Sherpa, who now lives in the US, has also been working to raise environmental awareness, and has participated in a few Eco Everest Expeditions with the aim of cleaning up the mountain. He runs The Apa Sherpa Foundation, which supports education in the Khumbu. At the Everest Summiters’ Lodge in Thame, which apparently belongs to his family, you may see the sequence of Apa Sherpa’s Guinness Book of World Records certificates.
丹增·诺尔盖曾住在 Thame，阿帕·夏尔巴（全名：拉克帕·丹增·夏尔巴）出生在这里。阿帕被称为超级夏尔巴，他在 2000 年第 11 次登上珠穆朗玛峰，创下新纪录。从那以后，他多次打破自己的纪录，直到 2011 年 5 月达到了 21 次登顶。这一纪录在 2013 年被普尔巴·塔希·夏尔巴追平，截至目前（2017 年 1 月），这一最新纪录尚未被打破。现居住在美国的阿帕·夏尔巴也致力于提高环保意识，并多次参与珠峰环保探险，旨在清理山上的垃圾。他创办了阿帕·夏尔巴基金会，支持昆布地区的教育。在 Thame 的珠峰登顶者小屋，据说这属于他的家族，你可以看到阿帕·夏尔巴的吉尼斯世界纪录证书的顺序。

For those well acclimatised, Sunder Peak (Sumdur Peak; 5361m/17,589ft) above Thame is said to be an interesting viewpoint – or rather its south-east summit at about 4900m (16,076ft), as the main summit appears to be both dangerous and difficult.
对于那些适应良好的人，Thame 之上的 Sunder Peak（Sumdur Peak；5361 米/17589 英尺）被认为是一个有趣的观景点——或者更确切地说，其东南峰约 4900 米（16076 英尺），因为主峰似乎既危险又困难。

To reach Thame, go up to the monastery at Namche, and then follow the trail leaving the gompa on your right. The path goes around a lowering ridge and passes near the helipad. From there on you will follow a good path high above the Bhote Koshi, first through forest and then passing through villages further on. Note the significant side valley ahead to the left; Thame sits at the mouth of this valley and you can occasionally see its monastery. At the head of that valley lies the difficult Tashi Labsta La, a 5755m (18,881ft) pass connecting the Khumbu with Rolwaling. The rocky mountain above Thame is Sunder Peak, and Tengi Ragi Tau is the glacier-covered mountain above it.
要到达 Thame，先到 Namche 的寺庙，然后沿着离开 gompa 的小道，保持在你的右侧。小路绕过一个低矮的山脊，并经过停机坪附近。从那里起，你将沿着一条高于 Bhote Koshi 的良好小道行走，起初穿越森林，然后经过更多的村庄。注意前方左侧明显的侧谷；Thame 坐落在这个山谷的入口处，你可以偶尔看到它的寺庙。在那个山谷的尽头是艰难的 Tashi Labsta La，一个 5755 米（18,881 英尺）的山口，连接 Khumbu 和 Rolwaling。Thame 上方的岩石山是 Sunder Peak，Tengi Ragi Tau 是其上的冰川覆盖的山峰。

About 7km (4¼ miles) from the helipad, the path brings you to a bridge over the Bhote Koshi where the river flows through a very narrow, rocky gorge. There are paintings of Guru Padmasambava and Green Tara on the right-hand rock just before the bridge. From here it will take about 30min to reach the main part of Thame, 1.3km away.
从直升机停机坪到 7 公里（4¼英里），小路带你来到 Bhote Koshi 上的一座桥，河流在这里流经一个非常狭窄的岩石峡谷。在桥前的右侧岩石上有莲花生大师和绿度母的画。从这里出发，大约需要 30 分钟才能到达 1.3 公里外的 Thame 主要部分。

There are stunning vistas down-valley from Thame, especially just before sunset. Thamserku is the highlight; Kusum Kanguru, which you should already be familiar with, is to the right of it. Kangtega, a new mountain in view is to the left of Thamserku, and a bit further to the left of that – and visible from some parts of Thame – is an intriguing mountain that looks like a pyramid from this angle. It is Malanphulan whose impressive unclimbed North Face can be seen from the neighbourhood of Ama Dablam Base Camp (see Trek 3, Section 2B).
从 Thame 向谷下看去，有令人惊叹的美景，尤其是在日落之前。Thamserku 是亮点；你应该已经熟悉的 Kusum Kanguru 在它的右边。Kangtega 是视野中的一座新山，在 Thamserku 的左边，再往左一点（从 Thame 的某些地方可以看到）是一座引人入胜的山，从这个角度看起来像金字塔。那就是 Malanphulan，其令人印象深刻的未攀登的北壁可以从 Ama Dablam 大本营附近看到（见徒步旅行 3，第二部分）。

To return to Namche, retrace your steps.
要返回 Namche，按原路返回。

TREK 3

The classic view of Everest from Kala Patthar
从卡拉帕塔尔经典视角看珠穆朗玛峰

TREK 3

Namche Bazaar to Everest Base Camp (EBC) and Kala Patthar
南池市场到珠穆朗玛峰大本营（EBC）和卡拉帕特尔

StartNamche Bazaar (3410m/11,188ft)FinishEverest Base Camp (5275m/17,306ft) or Kala Patthar (5645m/18,520ft)Distance35.5km (22 miles) (Namche to Kala Patthar via Tengboche and Dingboche)Total ascent3025m (9930ft) (Namche to Kala Patthar via Tengboche and Dingboche)Total descent790m (2590ft) (Namche to Kala Patthar via Tengboche and Dingboche)Time5 days, including entire day in Dingboche (2–3 days for the return)Max altitude5645m (18,520ft) (Kala Patthar)Min altitude3320m (10,892ft) (bridge at Phunke Tenga)Altitude gain2235m (7330ft) (Namche/Kala Patthar) or 1865m (6120ft) (Namche/EBC)
开始 Namche Bazaar (3410 米/11,188 英尺)结束 Everest Base Camp (5275 米/17,306 英尺)或 Kala Patthar (5645 米/18,520 英尺)距离 35.5 公里（22 英里）（Namche 到 Kala Patthar 经过 Tengboche 和 Dingboche）总上升 3025 米（9930 英尺）（Namche 到 Kala Patthar 经过 Tengboche 和 Dingboche）总下降 790 米（2590 英尺）（Namche 到 Kala Patthar 经过 Tengboche 和 Dingboche）时间 5 天，包括在 Dingboche 的整天时间（回程 2-3 天）最大海拔 5645 米（18,520 英尺）（Kala Patthar）最小海拔 3320 米（10,892 英尺）（Phunke Tenga 桥）海拔增高 2235 米（7330 英尺）（Namche/Kala Patthar）或 1865 米（6120 英尺）（Namche/EBC）

Porters heading down from Lobuche towards Pheriche
搬运工从 Lobuche 向 Pheriche 走去

This is the most popular trekking route in the Khumbu, with Everest Base Camp (EBC) the obvious magnet. However, Kala Patthar should always be considered. Situated above Gorakshep (5170m/16,962ft), the last settlement in the Khumbu Valley, and high above EBC, Kala Patthar enjoys much better views of Everest and its surroundings than the place on the glacier where climbers usually camp. For those with limited time, and who have to choose between the two, Kala Patthar is recommended if weather, fitness and health allow.
这是昆布最受欢迎的徒步路线，珠峰大本营（EBC）是显而易见的磁铁。然而，卡拉帕塔应始终被考虑。位于戈拉克谢普（5170 米/16962 英尺）之上，这是昆布谷最后一个定居点，卡拉帕塔比通常攀登者扎营的冰川上的地方能欣赏到更好的珠峰及其周边的景观。对于时间有限的人，如果天气、健康和体力允许，卡拉帕塔是推荐的选择。

You will be at high altitude throughout this trek with a constant risk of altitude sickness. It is crucial to observe your body as well as the condition of your partners and the Nepalis who assist you. Do not hurry; walk at a slow, steady pace, drink a lot, avoid alcohol and rest properly. Remember that the daily altitude gain should not be greater than 500m (preferably 300m) and if that is not possible you should spend at least two nights at the new altitude. You should also spend two nights in one place every time you gain 1000m above the previous two nights’ rest. Most trekkers therefore break the route up as follows:
在整个徒步过程中，你将处于高海拔地区，面临高原反应的持续风险。观察你自己的身体状况以及你同伴和协助你的尼泊尔人的状态是至关重要的。不要着急，以缓慢、稳定的步伐行走，多喝水，避免饮酒并充分休息。记住，日增海拔不应超过 500 米（最好是 300 米），如果不可能做到这一点，你应该至少在新海拔度过两个晚上。每次上升到比前两晚休息地高 1000 米时，你还应该在一个地方停留两个晚上。因此，大多数徒步旅行者将路线分解如下:

Walk from Namche to Tengboche (3860m/12,664ft) or Deboche (3735m/12,254ft) on the first day
第一天从南池步行到腾博切（3860 米/12,664 英尺）或德博切（3735 米/12,254 英尺）

On the second day, walk to Dingboche (4320m/14,173ft) or Pheriche (4280m/14,042ft), where two nights should be spent
在第二天，步行到丁波切（4320 米/14,173 英尺）或佩里切（4280 米/14,042 英尺），在那里停留两晚

Walk to Lobuche (4930m/16,175ft) the following day (unless feeling unwell)
次日步行到 Lobuche (4930 米/16,175 英尺)（除非感觉不适）

You can climb Kala Patthar or visit EBC from Lobuche and return for the night to the same place, or move to Gorakshep and explore the main points of interest from there. However, you would probably sleep better in Lobuche than in Gorakshep which is significantly higher and the nights much colder. Besides, according to the rules of proper acclimatisation, those who have arrived in Lobuche from Dingboche or Pheriche should spend at least two nights there before moving on and spending a night at a higher location.
你可以从 Lobuche 攀登卡拉帕特或参观 EBC，然后晚上返回同一地点，或者移动到 Gorakshep，从那里探索主要景点。然而，你可能会在 Lobuche 睡得比在 Gorakshep 更好，因为 Gorakshep 的海拔显著更高，而且夜晚更冷。此外，根据适当适应海拔的规则，从 Dingboche 或 Pheriche 到达 Lobuche 的人应该在出发并在更高位置过夜之前至少在那里度过两个夜晚。

If you have more time, take the route via Phortse (3800m/12,467ft), stay in Pangboche (3950m/12,959ft) and make a side trip to Ama Dablam Base Camp (4580m/15,026ft) which is also included in this chapter (see ‘Time in Pangboche’ at the end of Section 2B). Options for the day spent in Dingboche are also described, as well as ideas for spending more time in the upper part of the Imja Khola’s valley (see ‘Time in Dingboche’ at the end of Section 3).
如果你有更多时间，可以走经过 Phortse（3800 米/12,467 英尺）的路线，住在 Pangboche（3950 米/12,959 英尺），并前往 Ama Dablam Base Camp（4580 米/15,026 英尺）进行短途旅行，这部分也包含在本章（见 2B 节末的“Pangboche 的时间”）。在 Dingboche 度过的日子以及在 Imja Khola 山谷上部度过更多时间的想法也有详细描述（见 3 节末的“Dingboche 的时间”）。

Throughout this region spectacular views confront you at every corner. Himalayan giants, sharp peaks and ridges, and massive walls will surround you. As mornings usually enjoy better weather and clouds often develop during the afternoons, it is the early riser who wins the better views. You are recommended to begin early, even if the stage is short. There are a few options or variations on some sections of this trek, but for the most commonly used route follow option ‘A’ for each section.
在这一地区，壮观的景色在每个角落都迎面而来。喜马拉雅的巨峰、锐利的山峰与山脊，以及巨大的山壁将包围着你。由于早晨通常天气较好，而云层常在下午形成，因此早起的人能欣赏到更好的景色。建议你早点出发，即便阶段较短。在这次徒步旅行的某些路段上有一些选择或变化，但对于最常用的路线，请在每个路段选择选项‘A’。

SECTION 1A
第 1A 节

Namche to Sanasa via Tenzing Norgay Chorten and Khyangjuma
从南奇到萨那萨，经由丹增诺尔盖佛塔和康觉玛

StartNamche Bazaar (3410m/11,188ft)FinishTrail junction before Sanasa (3610m/11,844ft)Distance5km (3 miles)Total ascent300m (980ft)Total descent100m (330ft)Time2hr–2hr 15min (1hr 30min–1hr 45min for the return)Max altitude3625m (11,893ft) (point just before Khyangjuma)Min altitude3410m (11,188ft) (Namche)Altitude gain200m (660ft)
起点 Namche Bazaar (3410 米/11,188 英尺)终点 Sanasa 前的步道交叉口 (3610 米/11,844 英尺)距离 5 公里 (3 英里)总上升 300 米 (980 英尺)总下降 100 米 (330 英尺)时间 2 小时–2 小时 15 分 (往返 1 小时 30 分–1 小时 45 分)最大海拔 3625 米 (11,893 英尺) (Khyangjuma 前一点)最小海拔 3410 米 (11,188 英尺) (Namche)海拔增益 200 米 (660 英尺)

This section, which takes what is considered to be the ‘main’ route to Sanasa, features some superb views of Everest and Lhotse as well the awe-inspiring Ama Dablam. Khyangjuma is good point for a tea-break. The route is very clear all the way.
这一段被认为是通往萨纳萨的“主要”路线，沿途可以欣赏到珠穆朗玛峰和洛子峰的绝佳景色，以及令人叹为观止的阿玛达布朗峰。Khyangjuma 是一个喝茶休息的好地方。路径一路都很清晰。

Overnighting in Tengboche (Section 2A)
在腾波切过夜（第 2A 节）

The walk from Namche to Tengboche should take about 5hr–5hr 30min, covering a distance of 10.2km (6¼ miles) and about 875m (2871ft) of ascent and 425m (1394ft) of descent. Tengboche is 450m (1476ft) higher than Namche.
从纳姆切到廷布切的步行应大约需要 5 小时至 5 小时 30 分，覆盖距离为 10.2 公里（6¼英里），上升约 875 米（2871 英尺），下降约 425 米（1394 英尺）。廷布切比纳姆切高出 450 米（1476 英尺）。

From the main stupa at the lowest part of Namche, take the stone-stepped path by the stream. Continue past the main bazaar and arrive at the Tashi Delek and Moonlight lodges at about 3475m (11,401ft) where the path turns right (still climbing). Follow it to a fork where you branch left, rising to an important junction. Turn left here to reach a large boulder with mani inscriptions (after 80 metres) at 3535m (11,598ft). The trail divides again behind it. It will take about 1hr 20min to walk to Khyangjuma from here – a distance of 3.7km (2¼ miles).Turn right along a wide, slightly ascending traverse which soon leaves Namche, and walk through an open space with occasional pine trees.
从南池最低处的主要佛塔，沿溪旁的石阶小路。继续经过主要集市，到达约 3475 米（11,401 英尺）的 Tashi Delek 和 Moonlight 旅舍，在这里小路右转（继续上升）。跟随小路到达分叉处，向左分支，升到一个重要的交叉口。在这里左转到达一个刻有玛尼文的大石头（经过 80 米）在 3535 米（11,598 英尺）。小路在它后面再次分开。从这里步行到 Khyangjuma 大约需要 1 小时 20 分钟——距离为 3.7 公里（2¼英里）。沿着右手边的宽阔、略微上升的横道前行，很快离开南池，穿过偶有松树的开阔地。

Thamserku dominates the viewon the other side of the valley, and Ama Dablam is seen further up-valley. The huge southern face of Lhotse and Nuptse closes the valley far head, with Everest visible above their joining ridge. In the middle distance a low ridge projects into the valley from the right, with a forested slope and some buildings visible on its crest. You might be able to see the red building of a monastery if you look carefully; this is Tengboche Gompa (see Section 2A), and its small settlement of lodges is the usual overnight stopping point for those following the main route. The alternative is Deboche, about 20min beyond Tengboche and unseen from here.
Thamserku 在山谷的另一侧占据了视野，Ama Dablam 可以在更上游的山谷中看到。Lhotse 和 Nuptse 的巨大南面封闭了远处的山谷，珠穆朗玛峰可见于它们的连接山脊上。在中间距离处，一个低矮的山脊从右侧延伸到山谷中，山顶上可以看到森林斜坡和一些建筑物。如果仔细看，你可能会看到一个红色建筑，那是 Tengboche 寺院（见第 2A 部分），其小村落的旅馆是循着主要路线的人的通常过夜点。另一个选择是 Deboche，距离 Tengboche 约 20 分钟路程，从这里看不见。

About 40min (1.3km) from the last major junction at Namche you come to a large chorten (3585m/11,762ft) dedicated to Tenzing Norgay. There is another about 20min (875 metres) further along the trail. The trek continues on a wide paved footpath, which you would probably not imagine in the heart of the Himalaya. It is being continuously built and maintained due largely to the efforts of Pasang Lama Sherpa from Khumjung who raises funds and organises the work. An elderly man, he can often be met en route at a place where he and his wife collect donations from tourists.
从最后一个主要路口 Namche 出发约 40 分钟（1.3 公里），你会到达一个大型佛塔（3585 米/11,762 英尺），这是为了纪念 Tenzing Norgay 而建。再往前走约 20 分钟（875 米），还有一个佛塔。徒步继续沿着一条宽阔的铺装小道，这在喜马拉雅山的中心地带可能是你无法想象的。这主要得益于来自 Khumjung 的 Pasang Lama Sherpa 的努力，他筹集资金并组织施工。这位年长者常常可以在路上遇见，在一个他和妻子向游客募捐的地方。

On the left of the valleyas you look towards Everest and Lhotse, and opposite Ama Dablam, you can see Taboche Peak (6495m/21,309ft). Beautifully set on a terrace below it lies Phortse (3800m/12,467ft), a Sherpa village which makes the best overnight stop if you choose to walk via the Mong La between Sanasa and Pangboche (Section 2B).
在您朝珠穆朗玛峰和洛子峰的方向，在山谷的左侧，与阿玛达布拉姆相对，可以看到塔博切峰（6495 米/21309 英尺）。在它下方的一个平台上，美丽地坐落着福尔策（3800 米/12467 英尺），这是一个夏尔巴村庄，如果您选择通过在萨纳萨和潘波切之间的蒙拉（2B 段）行走，这里是最佳的过夜停留点。

Taboche peak with Phortse village on the terrace below it
塔博切峰与其下平台上的 Phortse 村庄

About 45min (1.9km) from the Tenzing Norgay Chorten, the route makes a few brief ups and downs on stone steps. Soon you pass Dream Garden Lodge and then reach a few more lodges and restaurants of Khyangjuma(3610m/11,844ft) in another 150 metres. This is a good place for a tea-break.
距丹增诺尔盖佛塔约 45 分钟（1.9 公里），路线在石阶上有一些短暂的起伏。很快你会经过 Dream Garden Lodge，然后再过 150 米就到达卡阳珠玛（3610 米/11,844 英尺）的几个旅馆和餐馆。这里是一个喝茶休息的好地方。

Beyond Khyangjuma the trail descends a little. You walk through a pleasant woodland of small birches and rhododendrons. It’s beautiful here in the springtime, and you soon cross a small bridge over a side stream flowing from Khumjung. A trail coming from that village joins ours about 80 metres beyond the stream, a few minutes from Khyangjuma. This is a major junction, as the trail to the Mong La, Phortse Thanga, Gokyo and Phortse branches left, rising slightly. The main trail bears right, descending slightly to Sanasa, 100 metres away; this is the route to take for Tengboche, Deboche and EBC.
在 Khyangjuma 之后，小径稍微下降。你行走在一片由小桦树和杜鹃花构成的宜人树林中。这里的春天很美，你很快就会穿过一座横跨从 Khumjung 流来的小溪的小桥。来自那个村庄的小径在大约 80 米外的溪流处与我们的小径汇合，离 Khyangjuma 几分钟路程。这是一个主要的交汇点，因为通往 Mong La、Phortse Thanga、Gokyo 和 Phortse 的小径在左侧分支，并略微上升。主小径在右侧，略微下降到 100 米外的 Sanasa；这是通往 Tengboche、Deboche 和 EBC 的路线。

Just before Sanasa a beautiful forest is passed where rhododendrons bloom in springtime
就在桑萨之前，会经过一个美丽的森林，那里杜鹃花在春天盛开

SECTION 1B
第 1B 节

Namche to Sanasa via Khumjung
Namche 到 Sanasa 经 Khumjung

StartNamche Bazaar (3410m/11,188ft)FinishTrail junction before Sanasa (3610m/11,844ft)Distance5km (3 miles)Total ascent445m (1460ft)Total descent245m (800ft)Time3hr–3hr 30min (3hr for the return)Max altitude3845m (12,615ft) (pass between Syangboche and Khumjung)Min altitude3410m (11,188ft) (Namche)Altitude gain200m (660ft)
开始南池市场 (3410 米/11,188 英尺)结束前往 Sanasa 的岔路口 (3610 米/11,844 英尺)距离 5 公里 (3 英里)总上升 445 米 (1460 英尺)总下降 245 米 (800 英尺)时间 3 小时–3 小时 30 分钟 (返回 3 小时)最高海拔 3845 米 (12,615 英尺) (经过 Syangboche 和 Khumjung 之间)最低海拔 3410 米 (11,188 英尺) (南池)海拔增益 200 米 (660 英尺)

This route first visits Khumjung above Namche, and then descends to Sanasa which is on another side of a ridge. It is slightly shorter than the main route, but requires more time as there is quite a steep climb followed by an important descent. Khumjung is a picturesque Sherpa village with many photogenic sites on the way, and as not so many trekkers choose this option there will be fewer people along the trail.
这条路线首先访问南奇上方的 Khumjung，然后降到位于山脊另一侧的 Sanasa。这条路比主路线稍短，但由于有相当陡峭的攀登和随后的重要下降，因此需要更多时间。Khumjung 是一个风景如画的夏尔巴村庄，沿途有许多适合拍照的景点，并且由于没有太多徒步旅行者选择这个选项，沿途的人会更少。

One way to Khumjung, which climbs steeply from the major path junction by the mani-boulder at the upper part of Namcheand passes the Hotel Everest View, is described in the ‘Time in Namche Bazaar’ chapter of Trek 2.
通往孔琼的一条路，从南奇上部的玛尼石旁主要路径交汇处陡峭攀升，并经过珠穆朗玛峰景观酒店，在《徒步旅行 2》中“南奇集市的时间”一章中有描述。

Thamserku is one of the highlights of the views between Namche and Khumjung
Thamserku 是南池和昆宗之间景观的亮点之一

Another option starts at the monastery (gompa) in Namche and climbs the slope above it. Keeping the gompa on your right, follow the path to a row of prayer wheels and turn sharply to the right, leaving the main trail which continues to Thame. The path has many branches, but the main one soon begins to climb a series of stone steps to the left towards a long string of prayer flags, about 100 metres from the junction by the prayer wheels. Above Namche now, the path goes among shrubs and young trees with open views of Thamserku, Kusum Kanguru and Kongde as well as Namche seen below. The path forks occasionally in order to walk on the proper side of mani-stones and walls. Khumbi Yul Lha, the sacred mountain of the Sherpas, rises above you to signal the general direction of Khumjung.An old chorten is soon reached.
另一条路线从南池的寺院（gompa）出发，攀爬其上的斜坡。保持 gompa 在你右侧，沿着小路到达一排转经筒，然后急转右离开继续通往 Thame 的主路。小路有许多分支，但主要的很快开始向左爬上一系列石阶，通向一串长长的彩色经幡，距离转经筒交汇处约 100 米。现在在南池上方，小路穿过灌木和幼树，开阔的视野可以看到 Thamserku、Kusum Kanguru 及 Kongde，还有下方的南池。这条路偶尔会分叉，以便在 mani-stones 和墙的适当一侧行走。不久便到达一座古老的佛塔。

This is a fine viewpointand a good excuse for a short break. Kongde Ri, with its four summits – Nupla, Shar, Lho and Nup – is behind you, towards the south-west. Tengi Ragi Tau and Parchomo (6273m/20,581ft) are seen up the Bhote Koshi valley, while the Tashi Labsta Pass, the gateway to the Rolwaling Himal, lies between them.
这是一个很好的观景点，也是短暂休息的好借口。Kongde Ri，拥有四个山峰——Nupla、Shar、Lho 和 Nup——位于你身后，向西南方向。Tengi Ragi Tau 和 Parchomo（6273 米/20,581 英尺）可以在 Bhote Koshi 山谷中看到，而 Tashi Labsta Pass，通往 Rolwaling Himal 的门户，就位于它们之间。

The ascent eases now as you head towards the first building of Syangboche, visible on the ridge. Continue straight past the little settlement, cross its airstrip then begin a steep approach to a stupa on a minor pass at 3845m (12,615ft), about 2hr–2hr 15min from the lowest part of Namche. This is another great place for photography.A short, steep descent on the other side brings you to the Hillary School in Khumjungand a long mani-wall.
现在爬升变得缓和，当你前往山脊上可见的 Syangboche 的第一座建筑时。继续笔直穿过小定居点，跨过其飞机跑道，然后开始陡峭的攀登，经过一个海拔 3845 米（12,615 英尺）的次要通道上的佛塔，这大约需要从 Namche 最低点出发的 2 小时到 2 小时 15 分钟。这是另一个拍照的好地方。在另一侧短暂而陡峭的下降将带你到 Khumjung 的 Hillary School 和一堵长长的玛尼墙。

Walk beside the wall and turn right (E) at its far end to follow the village’s main street. The street forks by the Eco Lodge and Restaurant, 750 metres from the school (passing a number of other lodges where a tea-break is possible), with the right branch climbing a ridge leading to Hillary’s Chorten and the Hotel Everest View. Continue to the left through the village with Ama Dablam ahead, following the main trail which soon begins to descend.
沿着墙边走，在墙的尽头向右转（E）以沿着村子的主街道走。街道在 Eco Lodge and Restaurant 分叉，距离学校 750 米（经过几个可以休息喝茶的旅馆），右边的分支爬上一条山脊，通往 Hillary’s Chorten 和 Hotel Everest View。继续向左穿过村庄，Ama Dablam 在前方，沿着主路走，不久便开始下降。

Just past the last buildings of Khumjung, the way forks. Go straight on, continuing downhill to an important junction near Sanasa, if your plan is to trek the main EBC route via Tengboche (Section 2A). If you wish to follow the Mong La and Phortse option (Section 2B), do not descend here but follow the trail to the left instead, to join the route from Sanasa in about 20min.
刚过 Khumjung 的最后几栋建筑，路就分叉了。如果你的计划是通过 Tengboche（第 2A 段）徒步 EBC 主路线，继续直走，下坡至 Sanasa 附近的重要交叉口。如果你想选择 Mong La 和 Phortse 路线（第 2B 段），不要在此处下坡，而是沿左边的小路走，大约 20 分钟后加入来自 Sanasa 的路线。

SECTION 2A
第 2A 节

Sanasa to Pangboche via Tengboche and Deboche
Sanasa 到 Pangboche 经 Tengboche 和 Deboche

StartTrail junction near Sanasa (3610m/11,844ft)FinishPangboche (lower village: 3950m/12,959ft)Distance10km (6 miles)Total ascent835m (2740ft)Total descent495m (1620ft)Time4hr 45min–5hr (4hr 30min for the return)Max altitude3950m (12,959) (Lower Pangboche)Min altitude3320m (10,892ft) (bridge at Phunke Tenga)Altitude gain340m (1120ft)
起点：靠近 Sanasa 的步道交汇处（3610 米/11844 英尺） 终点：Pangboche（下村：3950 米/12959 英尺） 距离：10 公里（6 英里） 总上升：835 米（2740 英尺） 总下降：495 米（1620 英尺） 时间：4 小时 45 分–5 小时（往返 4 小时 30 分） 最高海拔：3950 米（12959 英尺）（下 Pangboche） 最低海拔：3320 米（10892 英尺）（Phunke Tenga 的桥） 海拔增益：340 米（1120 英尺）

The Dudh Koshi has its second major fork roughly 2km up-valley beyond Sanasa. To the left (looking NNW), the river has its source in Nepal’s longest glacier, the Ngozumpa, which spreads from Cho Oyu and channels its way past Gokyo in the upper part of the valley, while the main valley ahead (NE) is seemingly blocked by Nuptse, Lhotse and Everest, and is drained by the Imja Khola. The trek described here crosses the Dudh Koshi before the fork, then climbs the ridge on the other side to reach Tengboche Monastery, and then follows the true left (east) bank of the Imja Khola before crossing back to the right bank shortly before reaching Pangboche.
Dudh Koshi 的大致第二个主要分支位于 Sanasa 以外的约 2 公里上游。在左侧（面向北西北），河流起源于尼泊尔最长的冰川 Ngozumpa，该冰川从 Cho Oyu 延伸，并穿过 Gokyo 流经山谷的上部，而前方的主谷（东北方向）似乎被 Nuptse、Lhotse 和 Everest 阻挡，并由 Imja Khola 排水。这里描述的徒步路线在分支前穿过 Dudh Koshi，然后攀登另一侧的山脊到达 Tengboche 寺庙，然后沿着 Imja Khola 的真正左（东）岸行进，之后在接近 Pangboche 前不久再回到右岸。

From the junction where the path from Khumjung joins with the main route, take the right branch, heading slightly downhill to reach Sanasain 100 metres. There are a few small lodges and a handicraft market lining the trail.Beyond the settlement the clear path makes a steady curving descent, passing through patches of forest with occasional rhododendrons, but with open areas from where you can see the steep path leading to Tengboche Monastery on the ridge ahead.
从 Khumjung 的小路与主路交汇的地方，走右边的岔路，稍微下坡 100 米到达 Sanasain。沿着小路有几家小旅馆和一个手工艺品市场。越过定居点，清晰的小路稳步弯曲下降，穿过森林间隙，偶尔可见杜鹃花，但有开放区域可看到前方山脊上的 Tengboche Monastery 的陡峭小路。

About 25min beyond Sanasa you pass a few houses and then, after making a short steep descent in forest, you come to the Green Valley and Pokhara lodges in Tashinga(Lawishasa; 3450m/11,319ft). Another steep descent among trees brings you to Phunke Tengaon a low terrace of the Dudh Koshi 1hr from Sanasa. There are lodges and restaurants on both sides of the river, linked by a suspension bridge(3320m/10,892ft) which you have to cross. You may want to have a rest here as a major climb awaits you beyond the settlement. Note the interesting water-driven prayer wheels on the right of the trail past the final buildings on the eastern side of river.
大约 25 分钟后经过 Sanasa，你会经过几户人家，然后在森林中进行一小段陡峭的下降，你会来到 Tashinga（Lawishasa；3450 米/11,319 英尺）的 Green Valley 和 Pokhara 旅馆。经过另一段陡峭的树林下降后，你会到达 Phunke Tenga，位于距 Sanasa 1 小时的 Dudh Koshi 河低处。河的两侧都有旅馆和餐馆，由一座需要跨越的吊桥（3320 米/10,892 英尺）连接。你可能想在此休息，因为在定居点之外有一段主要的爬升等待着你。在小路右侧、河流东侧最后的建筑物旁边，注意那些有趣的水力驱动的转经轮。

A group of trekkers descending towards Phunke Tenga
一组徒步旅行者正向 Phunke Tenga 下行

It is a steep and laborious climb to Tengboche, with over 500m (1640ft) of height to gain which usually takes about 2hr (a distance of 2.7km/1½ miles). As always, to prevent altitude sickness you are advised to walk at a slow, steady pace.
攀登到 Tengboche 是一段陡峭而费力的旅程，需要攀升超过 500 米（1640 英尺），通常需要约 2 小时（距离 2.7 公里/1½英里）。一如既往，为了防止高原反应，建议你以缓慢而稳定的步伐行走。

Large parts of the ascentare in forest dominated by rhododendron, juniper and fir. It is especially beautiful in springtime when the rhododendrons are in flower; on the trek from Lukla it is here that they are in their greatest abundance. When you have open views, you can see Kongde Ri and much of the way from Namche. The stream in the valley immediately below is a Dudh Koshi tributary called Phungi Khola, and its source is the Phungi Glacier below Kangtega (6782m/22,251ft).
攀登的大部分区域位于杜鹃花、刺柏和冷杉为主的森林中。春天特别美丽，因为那时杜鹃花盛开；在从卢克拉的徒步旅行中，这里是它们最为繁盛的地方。当你有开阔视野时，你可以看到 Kongde Ri 和从 Namche 来的大部分路程。下面山谷中的溪流是一个叫 Phungi Khola 的 Dudh Koshi 支流，其源头是 Kangtega（6782m/22,251ft）下方的 Phungi Glacier。

A kani(Buddhist archway) marks both the end of the climb and the entrance to Tengbocheat 3860m (12,664ft). A small settlement has been built on the ridge with a few lodges and a dominant monastery.
一个观音（佛教拱门）标志着攀登的结束和进入海拔 3860 米（12664 英尺）的 Tengboche 的入口。在山脊上建有一个小居民点，设有几家旅舍和一座显眼的寺庙。

TENGBOCHE GOMPA

Known as the Tengboche Gompa (or Dawa Choling Gompa), it is not the oldest in the Khumbu but it is certainly the most famous, the largest and the most important, and it has been destroyed twice. The first building was begun by Lama Gulu (Lama Gelu) in 1916 with the inspiration and support of his teacher, Ngawang Tenzin Norbu from Rongbuk in Tibet. Sadly the monastery did not survive the 1934 earthquake, but it was rebuilt soon after. As its founder died about the same time, a search was made for his reincarnation. It is said that as soon as he began to talk, a boy born in 1935 in Namche claimed to be Lama Gulu. After being sent to Rongbuk Monastery over the Nangpa La, he recognised Ngawang Tenzin Norbu and passed some formal tests, identifying some of the late Lama Gulu’s possessions, and proving that he was indeed the new incarnation of Pangboche Rinpoche. In 1989 the monastery was once again destroyed – by fire, this time, caused by an electric heater shortly after electricity had been installed. Once again it was rebuilt with the effort of the local Sherpas as well as many foreign individuals and organisations. Fortunately it survived devastation by the 2015 earthquake.
被称为腾波切寺院（或达瓦秋林寺），它不是昆布地区最古老的，但无疑是最著名、最大和最重要的寺庙，并且它曾两次被毁。第一座建筑是由喇嘛古鲁（喇嘛格鲁）于 1916 年在他的老师来自西藏绒布的阿旺丹增诺布的启发和支持下开始修建的。可惜的是，这座寺庙在 1934 年的地震中未能幸存，但很快又被重建。由于建造者大约在同一时间去世，人们开始寻找他的转世。据说，一位 1935 年出生在南池的男孩一开始说话时便声称自己是喇嘛古鲁。在被送到南帕拉那边的绒布寺后，他认出了阿旺丹增诺布，并通过了一些正式的测试，识别了已故喇嘛古鲁的一些物品，从而证明自己确实是邦波切仁波切的转世。1989 年，由于电加热器，在安装电力后不久，这座寺庙再次被火灾摧毁。再次在本地夏尔巴人以及许多外国个人和组织的努力下重建。幸运的是，它在 2015 年的地震中幸存了下来。

Many climbing expeditions receive a blessing from a lama here before their attempt on Everest. All visitors are welcome. There is usually a pujaor religious ceremony you can attend at around 3pm. Whenever you visit a gompa, please respect the local customs. Shoes must be left outside the temple and proper dress should be worn – no shorts, and no sleeveless shirts. Leave your head uncovered, do not touch any religious objects, and do not sit in places reserved for monks. Note that pieces of furniture that might resemble benches are actually tables. Places for guests are along the walls at the back and on both sides of the temple, on the floor. Sit cross-legged or at least – if you can’t sit like this – curl your legs up, as it is disrespectful to stretch your legs with feet directed towards anything regarded sacred, or towards another person. You may walk around in the temple but remember to do so in a clockwise direction (left to right) as you do with mani-stones and walls passed along the trail. Unless there is a notice to suggest otherwise, it is OK to take photographs, but refrain from using a flash, and be respectful when photographing people. As you leave, consider leaving a monetary donation in the box that’s located near the gompa’s exit.
许多攀登探险队在尝试攀登珠穆朗玛峰之前，会在这里接受喇嘛的祝福。欢迎所有游客。你通常可以在大约下午 3 点参加一个普 uja 或宗教仪式。无论何时参观寺庙，请尊重当地习俗。鞋子必须留在寺庙外，着装应得体——不能穿短裤，不能穿无袖衬衫。请保持头部不覆盖，不要触摸任何宗教物品，不要坐在僧侣专用的地方。请注意，看似长椅的家具实际上是桌子。客人座位在寺庙墙后部和两侧，位于地板上。请盘腿而坐，如果无法这样坐，请卷起双腿，因为双脚伸向任何被视为神圣的事物或其他人是无礼的。你可以在寺庙内走动，但请记住要顺时针方向行走（从左到右），如同你走在小径上经过玛尼石和墙壁时一样。除非有提示另有建议，否则可以拍照，但请避免使用闪光灯，并在拍摄人物时保持尊重。 在您离开时，考虑在靠近寺庙出口的箱子中留下捐款。

Tengboche has a pleasant coffee house where home-made cakes are available, located just to the left of the pathway that descends towards Deboche. Either Tengboche or Deboche (some 15min further, at 3735m/12,254ft) is the usual overnight stopping place at the end of the section that started in Namche.
Tengboche 有一家令人愉悦的咖啡馆，提供自制蛋糕，位于通往 Deboche 的下行道路的左侧。Tengboche 或者 Deboche（再往前大约 15 分钟，海拔 3735 米/12,254 英尺）通常是从 Namche 开始的这一段旅程结束时的一般过夜停留地。

Leaving Tengboche and heading NE, on the other side of the ridge a short descent in pleasant birch and rhododendron forest leads to the first lodge of Deboche(15min), and there’s more accommodation to be had within the next kilometre. From Deboche to Lower Pangboche it is about 3.9km (2½ miles), taking 1hr 30min. Height gain is 215m (705ft), with about 265m (869ft) total ascent and 50m (164ft) of descent.Some 500 metres beyond the first lodge, on the left of the trail in a tranquil setting, you pass a Buddhist nunnery, which you are welcome to visit.
离开 Tengboche 后向东北行进，翻过山脊的另一边，一个愉快的桦树和杜鹃花森林中的短暂下降会引导到 Deboche 的第一个小屋（15 分钟），在接下来的公里内还有住宿。从 Deboche 到 Lower Pangboche 大约是 3.9 公里（2½英里），需时 1 小时 30 分钟。海拔上升是 215 米（705 英尺），总上升约 265 米（869 英尺），下降 50 米（164 英尺）。大约 500 米超越第一个小屋后，在小径左侧的一个宁静场所，你会经过一个佛教尼姑庵，你可以随意参观。

Now and then Kongde Ri and Khumbi Yul Lha can be seen when looking back, while high on the other side of the Imja Khola the route of Section 2B, which runs between Pangboche and Sanasa, can be detected. This is a scenic route which you may want to follow on your return to Namche.
时不时地，回头可以看到孔德日和昆比玉拉，而在因加库拉的另一边，可以看到 2B 段的路线，该路线在潘波切和萨纳萨之间运行。这是一条风景秀丽的路线，您可能希望在返回南池时沿着这条路线走。

A little under 2km (30min) from the first lodge of Deboche, you’ll find the remains of a bridge. Just beyond that point there is a new suspension bridge, opened in autumn 2017. (This saves trekkers the effort of descending to the simple bridge that’s visible about 100 metres further up-valley and climbing steeply on the other side of the river.)
距离 Deboche 的第一个住所不到 2 公里（30 分钟），你会找到一座桥的遗迹。就在那个点的前面，有一座新的吊桥，于 2017 年秋天开放。（这让徒步旅行者省去了下到可以看到 100 米远的简易桥，并在河的另一侧陡峭攀爬的劳累。）

On the other side of the Imja Khola, follow an ascending traverse up-valley. It is mainly gradual but it has some short steeper sections; views of Ama Dablam and Thamserku reward your effort. A number of mani-walls and two or three chortens are passed on the way to a kaniat 3890m (12,762ft), reached about 15min from the bridge.
在 Imja Khola 的另一边，沿着向上山谷的小径行走。大部分路段较为平缓，但也有一些短而陡的部分；Ama Dablam 和 Thamserku 的美景将奖励你的努力。一路上会经过一些玛尼墙和两三个佛塔，前往一个海拔 3890 米（12,762 英尺）的垭口，距离桥大约 15 分钟路程。

A group of trekkers approaching Lower Pangboche, with Kongde Ri far behind them
一群徒步旅行者接近下庞菩齐，远处是孔德里山

Pangboche, the large village you now approach, consists of two parts. Most of the lodges are located in the lower settlement (called Lower Pangboche) which the main route passes through. The upper village has a more traditional look; in it there’s a monastery, a school, a helipad, and two or three lodges. Just beyond the kanithe trail forks. For the main route take the right branch, or go left if you want to visit the gompa. The lower trail passes a few more mani-walls and an old chorten before the first fields of Pangboche are reached about 500 metres beyond the kani. Ignore any paths leading into the fields, and remain on the obvious wide trail that takes you past Everest View Lodge and Om Kailash Hotel which are opposite one another in the main part of Lower Pangboche(3950m/12,959ft). Cross a side stream (the Tauje Khola) on a little footbridge 100 metres beyond the lodges, where you will find a few more guesthouses on the other side.
Pangboche，您现在接近的大村庄，由两个部分组成。大多数旅馆位于下部定居点（称为下 Pangboche），主路线经过这里。上村具有更传统的外观；其中有一座寺院、一所学校、一个直升机坪和两三家旅馆。在 kanithe 的正前方，路径分岔。主路线取右分支，或如果您想参观 gompa，则向左走。较低的小径经过几面佛墙和一座旧佛塔，然后到达 Pangboche 的第一个田地，距 kani 大约 500 米。忽略任何通往田地的小径，保持在显而易见的宽阔小径上，经过 Everest View Lodge 和 Om Kailash Hotel，这两者在下 Pangboche（3950 米/12,959 英尺）的主要部分相对而立。在旅馆 100 米外的小人行桥上横跨一条支流（Tauje Khola），在那里您会在另一侧找到更多的宾馆。

SECTION 2B
第 2B 节

Sanasa to Pangboche via Mong La and Phortse
Sanasa 到 Pangboche 经 Mong La 和 Phortse

StartTrail junction near Sanasa (3610m/11,844ft)FinishPangboche (lower part: 3950m/12,959ft)Distance12km (7¼ miles)Total ascent990m (3250ft)Total descent650m (2130ft)Time7hr (5hr 30min–6hr for the return)Max altitude4080m (13,386ft) (high point on the Phortse-Panboche trail)Min altitude3610m (11,844ft) (junction near Sanasa)Altitude gain340m (1120ft)
起点交汇处位于 Sanasa 附近（3610 米/11844 英尺）终点 Pangboche（下部：3950 米/12959 英尺）距离 12 公里（7¼英里）总上升 990 米（3250 英尺）总下降 650 米（2130 英尺）时间 7 小时（往返 5 小时 30 分–6 小时）最高海拔 4080 米（13386 英尺）（Phortse-Panboche 小道的最高点）最低海拔 3610 米（11844 英尺）（Sanasa 附近的交汇处）海拔增益 340 米（1120 英尺）

This is longer and more demanding than the main route, with many ascents and descents to contend with. However, it is still possible to trek from Namche to Dingboche in two days (or make the return from Pangboche to Namche on the way back in a single day), as is usually achieved by the standard route. It is a scenic way with fewer trekkers and some fine contouring sections that reward with fantastic vistas. Although you will miss Tengboche Monastery, you pass through the picturesque village of Phortse, which is the recommended overnight stop-off for those who started the day in Namche – it is 390m (1280ft) higher than the lower part of Namche.
这比主路线更长、更具挑战，需要应对许多上坡和下坡。然而，从南池步行到定博切在两天内仍然是可能的（或者在返回时从彭博切到南池在一天内完成），这通常是通过标准路线实现的。这是一条具有美景的路线，人迹较少，有一些精巧的等高线部分，可以欣赏到绝佳的景色。虽然你会错过腾博切寺院，但你会经过风景如画的福尔特西村，这是建议那些从南池出发的人的过夜停靠点——它比南池的低洼部分高 390 米（1280 英尺）。

If you plan to cross the Cho La and will therefore trek this section once only, choose this route and forget Tengboche. If you are trekking towards EBC and back, consider taking this variant either en route or on your return.
如果你打算越过 Cho La 并因此只走这一段，那就选择这条路线，忘掉 Tengboche。如果你是去 EBC 并返回，考虑在途中或返回时选择这个变体。

The 355m (1165ft) ascent to Mong La takes about 1hr 15min–1hr 30min; a distance of 2.2km (1¼ miles). To Phortse it is 5.5km (3½ miles) with 570m (1870ft) ascent and 380m (1247ft) descent, taking about 3hr.At the trail junction before Sanasa, take the branch slanting slightly left ahead and signed ‘Gokyo/Phortse’. This takes you through forest above the buildings of Sanasa, and then more steeply to reach a crossing path at 3655m (11,991ft). This is the trail from Khumjung. Bear right and before long you climb a steep flight of steps, before easing to make a long rising traverse of open hillside. Although the buildings on the Mong La appear a long way off, the distance is easily dealt with if you follow the advice of walking at a slow, steady pace. Keep alert for sightings of Himalayan tahr – a relative of the wild goat with beautiful long brown hair – grazing the slopes here.
攀登 355 米（1165 英尺）到 Mong La 需要大约 1 小时 15 分钟到 1 小时 30 分钟；距离为 2.2 公里（1¼英里）。到 Phortse 的距离为 5.5 公里（3½英里），需要攀登 570 米（1870 英尺）并下降 380 米（1247 英尺），大约需要 3 小时。在 Sanasa 之前的岔路口，选择稍微向左前方倾斜并标有“Gokyo/Phortse”的分支。这条路带你穿过 Sanasa 建筑上方的森林，然后更陡峭地到达 3655 米（11,991 英尺）的交叉小径。这是从 Khumjung 来的小径。向右走，不久后你会攀登一段陡峭的台阶，然后缓步走在开阔山坡上进行长距离的上升横穿。尽管 Mong La 的建筑看起来距离很远，但如果按照缓慢而稳定的步伐行走，距离很容易应对。留意在这里的斜坡上觅食的喜马拉雅塔尔羊——一种长着美丽棕色长毛的野山羊的近亲。

To your right, on the other side of the river at a scenic spot on the ridge, the Tengboche Monastery can be seen. The main valley has its second major fork at the foot of that ridge. To the left as you look up-valley (NNW), the Dudh Koshi river emerges from its source in the Ngozumpa Glacier, the longest glacier in Nepal which flows from Cho Oyu. Gokyo is in the upper part of that valley. The river flowing from the direction of Everest, Lhotse and Nuptse is the Imja Khola, and the attractively located village on a terrace above the confluence of the two rivers is Phortse. Taboche Peak rises above it, and as you approach the Mong La, a new peak (Kangtega; 6782m/22,251ft) comes into view on your right, just next to Thamserku.
在河的另一侧，在山脊上的风景区，可以看到 Tengboche 修道院。主山谷的第二个主要分叉位于那条山脊的脚下。在你向上游（北西北）看时，左侧是从 Ngozumpa 冰川（尼泊尔最长的冰川，从 Cho Oyu 流出）流出的 Dudh Koshi 河。Gokyo 位于该山谷的上部。从珠穆朗玛峰、洛子峰和努子峰方向流来的河流是 Imja Khola，位于两河交汇处上方台地上的村庄是 Phortse。Taboche 峰在其上升起，当你接近 Mong La 时，一个新的山峰（Kangtega；6782 米/22,251 英尺）出现在你右侧，就在 Thamserku 旁边。

At the end of this steady climb, the small settlement built on the steep ridge is called Mong La(also Mongla or sometimes Mong; 3965m/13,008ft). There are several restaurants and lodges, some of which have been rebuilt following earthquake damage.
在这段稳定的攀登结束时，建立在陡峭山脊上的小村落叫做 Mong La（也称为 Mongla 或有时称为 Mong；3965 米/13008 英尺）。这里有几家餐馆和旅馆，其中一些是在地震损坏后重建的。

Loaded yaks descending from Mong La towards Sanasa and Namche Bazaar
牦牛从芒拉下山朝向萨纳萨和南池市场

A steep descent, mostly among trees, brings you to the hospitable lodge at Phortse Thanga(3635m/11,926ft) which is a good place for lunch (30–45min from Mong La). Phortse is 1.8km from here and it will take about 1hr to get there. (Allow about 2hr to walk to Sanasa from here if you plan to return this way.)
在树木之间的陡峭下降将带你到位于 Phortse Thanga(3635 米/11,926 英尺)的热情好客的小屋，这里是午餐的好地方（从 Mong La 大约 30-45 分钟）。Phortse 离这里 1.8 公里，大约需要 1 小时到达。（如果你计划返回这条路，请留出大约 2 小时步行到 Sanasa。）

There is an important trail junction, with the route to Phortse, Pangboche and EBC continuing straight ahead downwards, and the path for Gokyo turning to the left just behind the lodge building. Walk ahead past one or two more lodges, and come to a bridgeover the Dudh Koshi at an altitude of 3620m (11,877ft). The way to Phortse crosses the bridge, and passes another lodge. The village is 145m (476ft) up the hillside, and it is a beautiful approach among rhododendrons and birch woods.
有一个重要的路口，通往 Phortse、Pangboche 和 EBC 的路线继续直行向下，而通往 Gokyo 的小路在旅馆建筑后左转。向前走，经过一两个旅馆，到达海拔 3620 米（11,877 英尺）的 Dudh Koshi 桥。通往 Phortse 的道路穿过桥，并经过另一个旅馆。村庄位于山坡上 145 米（476 英尺），这一段路在杜鹃花和桦树林中行进，非常美丽。

In the autumn it’s quite possible to find a Himalayan monalstrutting on the ground here. Belonging to the pheasant family, it is the national bird of Nepal – a fairly large bird, the male is very colourful.
在秋天，这里很可能会发现一只喜马拉雅单孔鸟在地上昂首阔步。它属于雉科，是尼泊尔的国鸟——一个相当大的鸟类，雄性非常多彩。

After 40min you should reach a chorten and a mani-wall at 3765m (12,352ft), which mark the beginning of PhortseIn 2016 cracks in the chorten were visible signs of earthquake damage, as Phortse was one of the worst affected places.Look back along the Dudh Koshi’s valley for a fine view of some high peaks. At the head of the valley, Cho Oyu – one of the eight-thousanders – is partially visible on the right.
40 分钟后，你应该到达一个海拔 3765 米（12,352 英尺）的佛塔和玛尼墙，它们标志着 Phortse 的开始。在 2016 年，佛塔上的裂缝是地震损坏的明显迹象，因为 Phortse 是受灾最严重的地方之一。回头望向杜得科西谷，可以看到一些高峰的一览无余。在山谷的尽头，可以部分看到右侧的 Cho Oyu——其中一座八千米的山峰。

The terrace on which the village sits slopes SW to NE with the chorten at its north-western edge. Many of the houses retain a traditional appearance; there’s a small gompa at the top of the village on the left, and a mosaic of fields covers the whole terrace. Stone walls surround individual fields to protect the crops from animals. Most of the lodges are situated near the main pathway that cuts through the middle of the terrace from the lowest to the highest part of the village. The main part of Phortse is at 3800m (12,467ft), and those who started the day in Namche are advised to spend the night here. (To return to Namche by retracing your steps and taking the 1A variant, allow about 4hr 30min.)
村庄所在的露台从西南向东北倾斜，佛塔位于其西北边缘。许多房屋保留了传统的外观；村庄顶部左侧有一个小寺庙，整个平台上覆盖着一片片田地。石墙围绕着各个田地，以保护庄稼不受动物侵害。大多数旅馆位于穿过平台中部的主要路径附近，从村庄的最低处到最高处。Phortse 的主要部分海拔 3800 米（12,467 英尺），建议当天从 Namche 出发的游客在此过夜。（回到 Namche 通过原路返回并走 1A 变体，约需 4 小时 30 分钟。）

Descent towards Pangboche on the way from Phortse
在从 Phortse 前往 Pangboche 的途中下降

From here it is 6.1km (3¾ miles) to Lower Pangboche, involving a total of 420m (1378ft) ascent and 270m (886ft) descent (height gain 150m/492ft). Allow 3hr 30min–4hr walking time.The continuing trail to Pangboche starts above Phortse and heads to the right as you look uphill. There are no lodges or tea-houses between Phortse and Pangboche but a small stream is crossed en route, so take water supplies sufficient for 2hr 30min. Follow the main path up to the end of the village, and after a short steep ascent the way contours to the right. Alternatively, take the ascending path on the right-hand side of the village, which joins the same contouring path. You will soon leave the Dudh Koshi valley, and the Imja Khola will appear steeply below. On the other side of the river, Tengboche is visible once more, as are some of the houses of Deboche.
从这里到 Lower Pangboche 有 6.1 公里（3¾英里），需要总共 420 米（1378 英尺）的上升和 270 米（886 英尺）的下降（高度增加 150 米/492 英尺）。预计步行时间为 3 小时 30 分钟至 4 小时。通往 Pangboche 的继续小路从 Phortse 上方向右延伸。Phortse 和 Pangboche 之间没有旅馆或茶馆，但途中会经过一条小溪，因此请携带足够 2 小时 30 分钟的水量。沿着主路走到村子的尽头，经过一个短而陡的上坡路后，道路向右转曲。或者，可以选择村子右侧的上升小路，它会与相同的转曲小路汇合。你将很快离开 Dudh Koshi 山谷，Imja Khola 将会陡峭地出现在下方。河的另一边，再次可以看到 Tengboche，以及一些 Deboche 的房屋。

The trail runs high above the valley, steadily rising with undulations for half the way before starting to descend. There is a particularly steep section about 1hr 30min from Phortse, where you need to climb a series of stone steps. The ascent becomes less severe towards the highest point at 4080m (13,386ft). This is a fantastic viewpoint and a good place to rest (2hr and 3.2km from Phortse). Now, the spread-out village of Pangboche can be seen below the ever impressive Ama Dablam. (If you plan to visit its base camp note the pathway leading to the place between the mountain’s ‘arms’ which is where the base camp is located.) The pyramid-shaped mountain on your right, between Thamserku and Ama Dablam, is Malanphulan (6571m/21,558ft). By the end of 2016 it had received only one recorded successful ascent. The South Face of Lhotse becomes more and more impressive as you approach and Everest is still visible, above the Lhotse-Nuptse ridge.
小径在山谷上方运行，一路缓慢上升并起伏一半后开始下降。从 Phortse 出发大约 1 小时 30 分钟处有一个特别陡峭的部分，你需要攀爬一系列的石阶。攀升在接近最高点 4080 米（13,386 英尺）时变得不那么陡峭。这里是一个绝佳的观景点，也是一个适合休息的地方（距离 Phortse 2 小时和 3.2 公里）。现在，可以看到分散的 Pangboche 村庄在令人印象深刻的阿玛达布拉姆山下。（如果你计划参观它的营地，请注意通往山体之间“手臂”交汇处的小路，那里是营地的位置。）你右边金字塔形的山峰，位于塔姆塞库和阿玛达布拉姆之间，是 Malanphulan（6571 米/21,558 英尺）。到 2016 年底，它仅有一次成功登顶记录。随着你接近，洛子峰的南壁越来越令人印象深刻，而珠穆朗玛峰仍然可见，在洛子-努子峰岭上方。

AMA DAMBLAM
阿玛达布拉姆

Amameans mother in the Sherpa language and dablamis a charm box or a pendant that local women wear. The characteristic glacier hanging on the mountain’s West Face, just below the summit, has the appearance of a dablam – hence its name. Ama Dablam then, translates as Mother’s Charm Box. As you can clearly see, ama, the mother, has her arms too. She is considered by many to be one of the most beautiful of all mountains, although some argue (including the author) that Pumori in the upper Khumbu could make a similar claim.
Ama 在夏尔巴语中意为母亲，dablam 是当地妇女佩戴的护身符盒或吊坠。山峰西侧的标志性冰川悬挂在山顶下方，看起来像一个 dablam——因此得名。Ama Dablam 意为“母亲的护身符盒”。正如你所看到的，这位母亲也有她的手臂。许多人认为她是所有山峰中最美丽的，尽管也有人（包括作者）认为上库布的普莫里也可有类似的主张。

Ama Dablam seen from Pangboche
从潘波切看阿玛达布拉姆峰

Ama Dablam (6812m/22,349ft) – considered insurmountable by George Lowe of the 1953 Everest expedition, who said, ‘That peak will never be climbed’ – was first summited, via its South-West Ridge, by four members of a Himalayan Scientific and Mountaineering Expedition led by Sir Edmund Hillary in March 1961. However, this was preceded by an attempt in May 1959 by two British climbers who disappeared above 6400m during their attempt on the much more difficult North Ridge. The successful 1961 climb is considered to mark the beginning of technical alpinism in the Himalaya. Today the standard route is the same as that of the first successful ascent – the right-hand ridge as seen from Pangboche. It is now the most popular non-trekking peak in the Khumbu, with dozens of teams in action there during the autumn post-monsoon season.
阿玛达布拉峰（6812 米/22,349 英尺）——曾被 1953 年珠峰探险队的乔治·洛称为不可征服的山峰，他曾说“那个山峰永远不会被攀登”——于 1961 年 3 月首次由爱德蒙·希拉里爵士领导的喜马拉雅科学与登山探险队的四名成员通过其西南山脊登顶。然而，此前在 1959 年 5 月，曾有两名英国登山者尝试攀登更为困难的北山脊，并在 6400 米以上失踪。成功的 1961 年攀登被认为标志着喜马拉雅山脉技术登山的开始。如今，标准路线与首次成功登顶的路线相同——从 Pangboche 看到的右侧山脊。现在这是坤布地区最受欢迎的非徒步旅行山峰，秋季季风过后有数十支队伍在此活动。

The West Face, which is seen most of the way from Namche, was climbed solo by a Czech climber, Miroslav Šmid, long after an unsuccessful attempt in 1979 by Ed Hillary’s son, Peter; and finally, the north-west ridge – the left arm as seen from Pangboche – was climbed alpine style in 10 days by two British climbers in 2001.
西壁，几乎一路从南池可见，由捷克登山者 Miroslav Šmid 单独攀登，远在 1979 年 Ed Hillary 的儿子 Peter 一次不成功的尝试之后；最后，从 Pangboche 看到的左侧山脊——西北山脊——由两名英国登山者在 2001 年采用阿尔卑斯风格花费 10 天攀登成功。

In November 2006 tragedy struck when part of the hanging glacier which gives the mountain its name broke away and the avalanche it triggered took an unexpected course and swept away Camp 3 – hitherto considered to be in a safe location below the steep section of ridge, and to the right of the glacier. In autumn 2016 another climber was killed by an avalanche caused by what was thought to be an aftershock of the 2015 earthquake.
2006 年 11 月，悲剧发生，给这座山峰命名的悬冰川的一部分断裂，引发的雪崩出乎意料地掠过了 3 号营地——此前被认为是在山脊陡峭部分以下且冰川右侧的安全位置。2016 年秋，另一名登山者被认为是 2015 年地震余震引发的雪崩所夺去生命。

A tiny side stream is crossed in another 10min, and 350 metres further on there’s another stream coming from a side valley. A bit further along from this is a short steep uphill followed by a short steep descent – stick to the main trail here, ignoring a tiny path to your right which makes a detour and rejoins the main route shortly afterwards.
10 分钟后跨过一条小溪，再往前走 350 米，有另一条从侧谷来的溪流。再往前走有一段短而陡的上坡，随后是短而陡的下坡——请继续沿着主路走，忽略右边的一条小路，这条小路会绕远路并很快重新连接到主路。

A long mani-wall marks the entrance to Upper Pangboche. Walk between the houses and arrive at the monastery (4000m/13,123ft). From here follow the path W with the monastery on your right behind you and the Gompa Lodge on your left, and you will soon arrive at a fork just beyond the last house. To reach the main part of Lower Pangboche take the middle pathway, straight ahead and slightly downward among juniper trees. (If you have no reason to visit Lower Pangboche, you might continue towards Dingboche or Pheriche choosing the path rising to the left here.) In 150 metres you pass a mani-wall where the descent becomes steeper and leads to Lower Pangboche, clearly seen ahead. The main route from Tengboche is joined in another 250 metres. Continue straight on to arrive at Everest View Lodge and Om Kailash Hotel, which mark the main part ofLower Pangboche(3950m/12,959ft).
一堵长长的玛尼墙标志着上帕姆博切的入口。穿过房屋到达寺庙（4000 米/13,123 英尺）。从这里沿着寺庙在你右后方、Gompa Lodge 在你左边的小路走，不久后到达最后一所房子前的岔路口。要到达下帕姆博切的主要部分，请走中间的小路，直行并稍微向下穿过杜松树。（如果你没有理由去下帕姆博切，可以继续朝向丁博切或 Pheriche，选择这里向左上升的小路。）在 150 米处，你会经过一个玛尼墙，那里下降变得陡峭并通向明摆着在前方的下帕姆博切。在另一个 250 米处加入从丁博切来的主要路线。继续直行，到达 Everest View Lodge 和 Om Kailash Hotel，这标志着下帕姆博切的主要部分（3950 米/12,959 英尺）。

The picturesque upper part of Pangboche village with its old monastery
风景如画的旁波切村上部及其古老的寺院

TIME IN PANGBOCHE
潘波切的时间

Pangboche is often chosen for an overnight stop on the return from EBC, as it makes a good day’s walk from Lobuche. In general it receives less attention than it deserves, but if you have some spare time, stay here for a night or two and enjoy its surroundings.
Pangboche 通常被选为从 EBC 返回途中过夜的停留地，因为从 Lobuche 到这里是一天很好的步行路程。总体而言，它受到的关注比应得的要少，但如果你有一些空闲时间，可以在这里停留一晚或两晚，享受其周围环境。

Taboche and Ama Dablam rise immediately above the village on opposite sides of the Imja Khola. Taboche is to the north, on the left as you look up-valley, while Ama Dablam is towards the east. Ama Dablam is often climbed in the autumn. If you have binoculars it is often possible to see climbers on the glacier just below the top; lights are sometimes seen at night on the right-hand ridge where one of the camps is located.
Taboche 和 Ama Dablam 在村庄的另一侧耸立于 Imja Khola 两侧。Taboche 位于北面，当你向山谷上方看时在左侧，而 Ama Dablam 朝向东面。Ama Dablam 通常在秋季攀登。如果你有双筒望远镜，通常可以看到登山者在接近顶端的冰川上；有时在夜晚可以看到右侧山脊上营地所在位置的灯光。

Pangboche enjoys stunning views of both peaks as well as of Everest which is still visible rising above the Nuptse-Lhotse ridge. Evenings are special moments of course, so if you stay here, do not miss the sunset. It is recommended to have a torch with you if you go for an afternoon walk as you would probably stay at a viewpoint until sunset ends and darkness falls.
Pangboche 享有两个山峰以及依然在 Nuptse-Lhotse 山脊上方可见的珠穆朗玛峰的壮丽景色。傍晚当然是特别的时刻，所以如果你住在这里，不要错过日落。建议你下午散步时带上手电筒，因为你可能会停留在一个观景点直到日落结束和夜幕降临。

Taboche (5495m/18,028ft), also spelled Taweche or Tawoche, is considered to be a very difficult peak, and was first climbed in 1974 by a French team led by Yannick Seigneur. Interestingly, it was an unauthorised ascent made without permission from the Nepalese authorities. As a consequence, the leader was fined and banned from the country for five years. The first successful winter attempt was made by a Korean team in 1986. The mountain has had at least two other winter climbs, both alpine style. In 2005, Swiss speed-climber Ueli Steck climbed Taboche solo, via a new, 1500m-long route on the East-South-East Face in just 4hr 30min from his base camp!
塔博切峰（5495 米/18,028 英尺），也被拼写为 Taweche 或 Tawoche，被认为是一座非常难攀登的山峰，首次攀登是在 1974 年由雅尼克·塞尼耶领导的法国队完成。有趣的是，这是一次未经尼泊尔当局许可的擅自登顶。因此，领导者被罚款并被禁止入境该国五年。第一次成功的冬季尝试是在 1986 年由一支韩国队完成的。该山峰至少还有另外两次冬季攀登，均为阿尔卑斯式风格。2005 年，瑞士速攀者乌利·史泰克在东南东面开辟了一条新的、1500 米长的路线，并仅用时 4 小时 30 分钟就从他的营地单人攀登了塔博切峰！

Pangboche Monastery and the ridge below Taboche Peak
Pangboche 寺院和 Taboche 峰下的山脊

If you spend a night in Pangboche, a walk to the upper part of the village is highly recommended. The monastery is the oldest in the Khumbu, and contains what is said to be a yeti skull and a skeletal hand. The hand was probably first seen by a Westerner in 1958 during an expedition whose purpose was to search for evidence of the yeti’s existence. At the time the local lama refused to allow the hand to be taken from the gompa as that would bring bad luck. Some time later, however, permission was granted for one skeletal finger to be replaced by a human finger wired to the original hand, while the original finger was smuggled to England. Stored in a London museum, its DNA was finally tested in 2011 and it was proved that the Pangboche finger was of human origin. In the 1990s both the skull and the hand were stolen from the monastery, and what you can see now – an entry ticket is required to visit the monastery – is a replica made by a film company and brought here from New Zealand in 2011. If the monastery is closed ask for the key-lama in one of the nearby shops or lodges.
如果你在 Pangboche 过夜，强烈推荐去村庄的上部走走。寺院是 Khumbu 最古老的寺院，里面据说有一个雪人的头骨和一个骨手。该骨手可能是在 1958 年的一次探险中由西方人首次看到的，当时的探险目的是寻找雪人存在的证据。当时当地喇嘛拒绝允许将手从庙里带走，因为那样会带来厄运。然而，过了一段时间，允许将一个骨指替换成人类的手指并接到原手上，而原手指被走私到英格兰。存放在伦敦博物馆里，它的 DNA 最终在 2011 年被检测，证实 Pangboche 手指是人类的。在 1990 年代，头骨和手都被从寺院偷走，现在你能看到的是一个需要门票进入参观的复制品，由一个电影公司制作并于 2011 年从新西兰带到这里。如果寺院关闭，可以在附近的商店或住所寻找钥匙-喇嘛。

In the upper part of the village ask for directions to the school, or find a path that passes near the Trekker’s Holiday Inn above the gompa, then climbs a little higher, to the right. The school, which is above all the other buildings, is reached in just a few minutes. Above it, there is a statue of Guru Padmasambava, the founder of Buddhism in Tibet. Both the school and the statue are on a ridge which might be followed further up, in the direction of Taboche Peak. There is a rocky summit (about 5300m/17,388ft), visible on the ridge, which you could possibly climb. However, it may be worth climbing any part of the ridge as the author did one afternoon, reaching an altitude of about 4435m (14,551ft); this should aid acclimatisation, and the views are stunning – especially at sunset. The path that follows the ridge above Guru Padmasambava’s statue and turns off to the right at about 4290m (14,075ft) leads to Taboche Kharka (4400m/14,436ft) where villagers from Pangboche apparently have additional fields and graze their yaks.
在村庄的上部询问去学校的方向，或者找到一条小路，这条路经过寺庙上方的背包客假日酒店，然后稍微往右上方攀登。学校位于所有建筑物的上方，只需几分钟便能到达。在学校上方，有一座莲花生大师的雕像，他是藏传佛教的创始人。学校和雕像都位于一个山脊上，可以沿着山脊继续往上走，朝着 Taboche Peak 的方向。在山脊上可以看到一个岩石山顶（约 5300 米/17388 英尺），也许可以攀登。不过，攀登山脊的任何部分都是值得的，作者曾在一个下午达到约 4435 米（14551 英尺）的高度；这有助于适应高原，景色也非常壮观——尤其在日落时分。沿着莲花生大师雕像上方的山脊小路，在约 4290 米（14075 英尺）处右拐的小路通往 Taboche Kharka（4400 米/14436 英尺），据说那里是 Pangboche 的村民拥有额外田地和牧放牦牛的地方。

A full day’s optional trip leads to another viewpoint on the same side of the Imja Khola under Taboche Peak, located at the end of the ridge on the other side of the Tauje Khola, the small stream just to the right as you look uphill. The route is marked on some maps and it seems to pass Taboche Kharka. A description of the way can be found on www.summitpost.org; the peak atop the ridge is called Taweche Towers (c. 5200m/17,060ft) and is said to be spectacular for the views – ask locally for details.
一整天的自选旅行将带您到达同一边 Imja Khola 下的另一个观景点，位于 Tauje Khola 另一侧山脊尽头的 Taboche Peak 下，那个小溪流就在您抬头望去的右边。该路线在一些地图上标记，并且似乎经过 Taboche Kharka。有关于路径的描述可以在 www.summitpost.org 上找到；山脊顶上的峰称为 Taweche Towers（约 5200 米/17060 英尺），据说景色壮观——可在当地询问详情。

A side trip to Ama Dablam Base Camp
前往阿玛达布拉姆大本营的短途旅行

A hike to the Ama Dablam Base Camp at 4580m (15,026ft) will certainly aid acclimatisation and is one of those side-trips where the most stunning surroundings await you. Although half a day is sufficient for a there-and-back trip, it is recommended that you dedicate a full day to it and walk higher up the Cholungche Khola’s valley, following a section of the route taken by climbers.
徒步到海拔 4580 米（15026 英尺）的 Ama Dablam 大本营肯定有助于适应环境，这是一趟那些最令人惊叹的周边环境等待着你的短途旅行之一。虽然半天的时间足够往返，但建议你花整整一天的时间，沿着攀登者所走的一段路线，在 Cholungche Khola 山谷中更高处行走。

It is about 4.1km (2½ miles) from Pangboche to the Base Camp and it takes about 3hr for someone not yet fully acclimatised. There’s an altitude difference of about 630m (2067ft) between Pangboche and the Base Camp, but a total ascent of around 680m. Allow at least 1hr 30min for the return to Pangboche.
从 Pangboche 到大本营大约 4.1 公里（2½英里），对于尚未完全适应的人来说大约需要 3 小时。从 Pangboche 到大本营的海拔差约为 630 米（2067 英尺），但总上升高度约为 680 米。返回 Pangboche 至少需要 1 小时 30 分钟。

You need to cross the Imja Khola just beyond Pangboche. From Lower Pangboche follow the main EBC trail and cross the small bridge in the side valley (Tauje Khola). As you climb steep stone steps on the other side, look for a pathway to the right. If you miss that, continue to the last buildings of Pangboche and take the right branch at the fork which is just past the final lodge (Sonam Lodge) of the settlement. The path that begins there descends to a bridge over the Imja Khola (3930m/12,894ft) to join the other path mentioned above. Over the bridge, follow the clear path up the steep slope. About 80 metres above the river you reach a terrace where the gradient eases for a while. After another 250 metres it becomes steep once more, with zig-zags taking you up to a ridge at 4190m (13,747ft). Follow this to the left for 20min to reach an easier ascent between small moraine hills. Pumori (7161m/23,494ft), another beautiful and prominent mountain, comes into view on your left, towards the north. Located in the upper part of the Khumbu Valley, 17.5km (11 miles) distant as the crow flies, it has Kala Patthar, the famous Everest viewpoint, just below it – but not visible from here. On a hill to your left is a small chorten; the hill itself is a fantastic spot for photography. Turn right here and start to ascend a moraine slope with the Cholungche Khola below to your right, Ama Dablam on your left immediately above and Malanphulan (6571m/21,558ft) straight in front of you.
你需要在 Pangboche 的尽头不远处跨过 Imja Khola。从 Lower Pangboche 沿着 EBC 主路线走，穿过侧山谷的小桥(Tauje Khola)。在另一边爬陡峭的石阶时，寻找右边的小路。如果错过，继续走到 Pangboche 的最后几栋建筑，在分叉口右转，过了定居点的最后一家旅馆(Sonam Lodge)。从那开始的道路下降到一座桥，跨越 Imja Khola（3930 米/12,894 英尺），与上面提到的其他路径汇合。过桥后，沿着清晰的小路上陡坡。大约在河流上方 80 米处，你会到达一个平台，坡度暂时变缓。再经过 250 米，坡度再次陡峭，Z 字形小道带你爬上 4190 米(13,747 英尺)的山脊。向左走 20 分钟，到达小冰碛丘之间较缓的上升地段。Pumori（7161 米/23,494 英尺），另一座美丽而突出的山峰，出现在你左边，朝北。在 Khumbu 谷的上方，直线距离 17.5 公里（11 英里），其下方有著名的珠峰观景点 Kala Patthar，但在此看不见。 在你左边的山上有一座小佛塔；这座山本身是拍照的绝佳地点。在这里右转，开始攀登冰碛斜坡，右下方是 Cholungche Khola，左上方是 Ama Dablam，Malanphulan (6571m/21,558ft)就在你正前方。

In another 45min the way steepens once more as you climb the moraine, at the same time bearing left. There are two paths to the right – the first continues the traverse, while the other turns off higher up: both lead to a small lodge at about 4530m (14,862ft). The Base Camp(4580m/15,026ft) is located behind the moraines in a flat, picturesque meadow, flanked by Ama Dablam’s arms. There are often dozens of climbers’ tents here in the autumn, as the mountain is popular with commercial expeditions. Unlike on Everest, the post-monsoon season is the preferred time for most teams here.
再过 45 分钟，当你攀登冰碛时道路再次变陡，同时向左。右边有两条路——第一条继续横穿，而另一条转向更高的地方：两条路都通向海拔约 4530 米（14,862 英尺）的一个小旅舍。大本营（4580 米/15,026 英尺）位于冰碛后的一个平坦、风景如画的草地上，被阿玛达布拉姆峰环抱。每年秋季这里经常有几十个登山者的帐篷，因为这座山在商业探险中很受欢迎。与珠穆朗玛峰不同的是，季候风之后的季节是这里大多数团队的首选时间。

Ama Dablam Base Camp at 4580m
Ama Dablam 大本营在 4580 米处

As you look towards the north, the characteristic mountain with the rocky triangular East Face is Lobuche East (6119m/20,075ft) – another fairly popular peak. The big mountain to the right of that is Chumbu (6859m/22,503ft).
当你向北望去，那座以岩石三角形东面而闻名的山是 Lobuche East（6119 米/20075 英尺）——另一座相当受欢迎的山峰。右边的大山是 Chumbu（6859 米/22503 英尺）。

The way to Advanced Base Camp (ABC) starts at the point where the prayer flags are flying, on the right side of Base Camp as you look towards Ama Dablam. This route takes you to a fantastic viewpoint at the end of a moraine; it takes almost 2hr of slow ascent from Base Camp to reach the viewpoint, covering a distance of 2.6km (1½ miles) and an altitude gain of 405m (1328ft). If not covered with snow, the path is clear all the way and is visible from BC. Climb the moraine on the right and follow its ascending ridge towards the SE. The viewpoint, marked with prayer flags, is at the end of the moraine at about 4995m (16,388ft). A clearly visible path, followed by climbers, descends beyond this point to the left, then climbs another steep moraine on the other side of a valley.
通往高级大本营（ABC）的路始于祈祷旗飘扬的地方，从大本营面向阿玛达布朗山的右侧。这条路线带你到冰碛末端的一个绝佳观景点，从大本营缓慢上升几乎需要两个小时，覆盖 2.6 公里（1½英里）的距离，海拔上升 405 米（1328 英尺）。如果没有被雪覆盖，路径全程清晰可见，从大本营就能看到。沿着右侧的冰碛攀登，并沿着它向东南方向的上升山脊前进。观景点以祈祷旗标志，位于冰碛的末端，海拔约 4995 米（16388 英尺）。攀登者遵循的明显路径在此点以外向左下降，然后在山谷另一侧攀登另一个陡峭的冰碛。

The viewpoint is magnificent, certainly one of the best accessible to trekkers in the entire Khumbu. There is a beautiful mountain (Malanphulan; 6571m/21,558ft) towards the south-east. The 1000m-high North Face has never been climbed – claims of a 2009 ascent were questioned by Wojtek Kurtyka, who had made a couple of earlier attempts on this wall. The mountain itself has only had one reported ascent, that being by the West Face in 2000.
这个观景点非常壮观，绝对是整个昆布地区徒步旅行者能够到达的最佳地点之一。东南方向有一座美丽的山脉（Malanphulan；6571 米/21,558 英尺）。1000 米高的北壁从未被攀登过——2009 年攀登的说法被曾数次尝试攀登此壁的 Wojtek Kurtyka 质疑。这座山本身只有一次被报道的攀登记录，那是在 2000 年的西壁。

Behind you, the northern panorama starts with the well-known Taboche on the left and Pumori seen on your right from a little lower on the moraine. Among the prominent peaks, Cholatse is next to Taboche; Cho Oyu (8201m/26,906ft) – the world’s sixth highest mountain – and its neighbour Gyachung Kang (another giant at 7985m/26,198ft) are behind Lobuche East, but seen above it to the left of Chumbu. And on the left as you descend, you see Kongde and peaks of the Rolwaling Himal behind it.
在你身后，北边的全景从左边著名的塔博切开始，普莫里从冰碛稍低的位置可以看到在你的右边。在众多显著的山峰中，卓拉策紧邻塔博切；卓奥友（8201 米/26,906 英尺）——世界第六高峰——及其邻近的嘉彰康（另一座巨峰，7985 米/26,198 英尺）位于洛布切东峰后面，但可在其上方看到，位于春布的左侧。向左下山时，你会看到康德和其后面罗拉岗日喜马拉雅的山峰。

To return to Pangboche, retrace the same route using obvious shortcuts. It is much easier to descend and it should take about 2hr 45min to cover the 6km (3¾ miles).
返回庞波切时，沿同一路线返回，并使用明显的捷径。下山要容易得多，预计耗时约 2 小时 45 分钟，距离为 6 公里（3¾英里）。

SECTION 3
第 3 节

Pangboche to Dingboche (or Pheriche)
Pangboche 到 Dingboche（或 Pheriche）

StartLower Pangboche (3950m/12,959ft)FinishDingboche (4320m/14,173ft) or Pheriche (4280m/14,042ft)Distance6km (3¾ miles) to Dingboche; 6km (3¾ miles) to PhericheTotal ascent435m (1430ft) (between Pangboche and Dingboche)Total descent65m (210ft) (between Pangboche and Dingboche)Time2hr 45min to Dingboche (2hr return from Pheriche)Max altitude4320m (14,173ft) (Dingboche)Min altitude3950m (12,959ft) (Lower Pangboche)Altitude gain370m (1210ft) (between Pangboche and Dingboche)
起点下 Pangboche (3950 米/12,959 英尺)终点 Dingboche (4320 米/14,173 英尺)或 Pheriche (4280 米/14,042 英尺)距离 6 公里(3¾英里)到 Dingboche；6 公里(3¾英里)到 Pheriche 总上升 435 米(1430 英尺)(在 Pangboche 和 Dingboche 之间)总下降 65 米(210 英尺)(在 Pangboche 和 Dingboche 之间)时间 2 小时 45 分钟到 Dingboche(从 Pheriche 返回 2 小时)最高海拔 4320 米(14,173 英尺)(Dingboche)最低海拔 3950 米(12,959 英尺)(下 Pangboche)海拔增益 370 米(1210 英尺)(在 Pangboche 和 Dingboche 之间)

In the second half of this section beyond Orsho the route divides, with one option aiming for Dingboche and the other finishing in Pheriche. Dingboche, which is the recommended choice, is about 1000m (3280ft) higher than Namche, so (unless you spent 2 nights in Pangboche) you are strongly advised to spend two nights there to aid acclimatisation. There are at least two options for filling the acclimatisation day, and both are described below. Although you could make the same outings when staying in Pheriche, it would be less convenient to do so. The author’s preference is to stay in Dingboche on the way to EBC, and pass through Pheriche on the return to Namche.
在这一部分的后半段，超过 Orsho 后，路线分为两条，一条通往 Dingboche，另一条以 Pheriche 为终点。推荐的选择是 Dingboche，它比 Namche 高约 1000 米（3280 英尺），因此（除非您在 Pangboche 住了两晚）强烈建议您在那里住两晚以帮助适应高海拔。有至少两种选择来安排适应高原的一天，以下将描述这两种选择。虽然您在 Pheriche 住宿时也可以进行相同的出行活动，但这样做会不太方便。作者的偏好是前往 EBC 时住在 Dingboche，而返回 Namche 时经过 Pheriche。

This is a short and easy section. However, as you are already high, and will be going to even higher altitudes, it is recommended not to hurry. Even if you feel you could walk all the way without a stop, you should take a tea- or lunchbreak along the trail and relax for an hour or so.
这是一个简短而简单的部分。然而，由于你已经在高海拔地区，并且将攀登到更高的海拔，建议不要着急。即使你觉得可以一直走不停，也应该在路上喝杯茶或吃顿午餐，放松一小时左右。

From the main part of Lower Pangbochebetween the Everest View and Om Kailash lodges, take the main path which passes a mani-wall, and cross the small bridgeover the Tauje Khola. After the last buildings, the way follows a gradually rising course towards the next settlement of Somare. This will be seen about 2km (1¼ miles) ahead on the same side of the Imja Khola. Everest now disappears from view, and will remain unseen until you enter the upper reaches of the Khumbu Valley. After 15min, the path from Upper Pangboche joins from the left. Continue straight ahead and in another 15min (30min from the start) note the images of Guru Pandmasambava (Guru Rinpoche) painted on the rock on your left. The beginning of Somare(4075m/13,369ft) is marked with a steep ascent, with the main part reached about 50min from Pangboche. As there are only two more lodges before Dingboche or Pheriche, this is where most trekkers take a tea- or lunchbreak.
从主要部分的下 Pangboche，位于珠峰景观和 Om Kailash 旅馆之间，走主路经过一个玛尼墙，然后跨过 Tauje Khola 上的小桥。过了最后的建筑后，路径逐渐上升，通向下一个定居点 Somare。大约 2 公里（1¼英里）前方可以看到它，位于 Imja Khola 的同一侧。珠峰现在从视野中消失，直到进入 Khumbu 谷上游才能再次看到。15 分钟后，上 Pangboche 来的路从左侧汇入。继续直行，再过 15 分钟（从开始算 30 分钟）注意左边岩石上画着的莲花生大师（Guru Rinpoche）的画像。Somare（4075 米/13,369 英尺）的开始处标志着一个陡峭的上升，主要部分在从 Pangboche 走 50 分钟后到达。在到 Dingboche 或 Pheriche 之前只有两个旅馆，所以大多数徒步旅行者在这里休息喝茶或午餐。

The gradient eases after leaving Somare. A few minutes later, pass the solitary Tashi Delek Lodge in Chhejungma(4100m/13,451ft). The trail has a number of strands here. Try to follow the main path which seems to be rather on the right-hand side, rising gradually. Note that straying from the proper route impacts the environment, as unnecessary erosion results in the destruction of more plants than would be the case with just a single path.
离开 Somare 后坡度变缓。几分钟后，经过 Chhejungma（4100 米/13,451 英尺）的孤立的 Tashi Delek Lodge。这里的小径有许多分支。尽量遵循似乎在右侧的主路，逐渐上升。请注意，偏离正确路线会对环境产生影响，因为不必要的侵蚀会导致比单一路径更严重的植物破坏。

An independent trekker approaches Orsho
一位独立徒步旅行者接近 Orsho

Another lone house, the Sunrise Guesthouse in Orsho(4105m/13,468ft) is reached soon after, located on a broad pasture high above the valley floor.
另一座孤零零的房子，位于 Orsho 的 Sunrise Guesthouse（4105 米/13,468 英尺），很快就能到达，位于高于山谷地面的宽阔牧场上。

Ahead, the valley forks, with the impressive South Face of Nuptse above, and Lhotse slightly to the right. The right-hand valley is that of the Imja Khola, with the popular trekking peak of Imja Tse (better known as Island Peak) at its head. The Lobuche river – sometimes spelled Lobujya and known also as the Khumbu Khola – is to your left; this is the valley that leads to the Khumbu Glacier, Kala Patthar and EBC. A clear path can be seen on the steep ridge dividing the two valleys. This leads to Nangkartshang Peak (5083m/16,677ft) at the end of the ridge, below rocky summits, of which Pokalde (5806m/19,049ft) is the highest. Nangkartshang is a fantastic viewpoint – Makalu is visible from its summit, among many others. A route description is given in ‘Time in Dingboche’, below.
前方，山谷分叉，上方是令人印象深刻的努子峰南壁，稍右是洛子峰。右侧的山谷是 Imja Khola，其顶部是受欢迎的徒步旅行山峰 Imja Tse（更为人知的名字是 Island Peak）。左侧是 Lobuche 河——有时拼写为 Lobujya，也被称为 Khumbu Khola；这是通往 Khumbu 冰川、Kala Patthar 和 EBC 的山谷。在分隔两个山谷的陡峭山脊上可以看到一条清晰的小路。这条路通向山脊末端的 Nangkartshang Peak（5083 米/16677 英尺），在岩石峰顶之下，其中 Pokalde（5806 米/19049 英尺）是最高的。Nangkartshang 是一个极好的观景点——从它的峰顶可以看到 Makalu，以及许多其他山峰。路线说明在下文"Dingboche 的时间"中给出。

The full extent of Nuptse’s South Faceis seen from here, separated from Lhotse by the low point at 7545m (24,754ft) on the ridge which stretches for almost 6km (3¾ miles) over a number of summits. Its name means ‘West Peak’ as the main 7861m (25,791ft) summit is located west of Everest’s Western Cwm. As you look at the ridge, the main summit is the third peak from the left and it does actually appear to be the highest point. The first ascent was made via the South Face in 1961 by a British expedition, the summit being reached first by Dennis Davis and Tashi Sherpa, with Chris Bonington, Les Brown, Pemba Sherpa and Jim Swallow reaching the top the next day. The final part of the route to the ridge was via the couloir which you can clearly see just left of the main summit. There are now several routes on this face.
从这里可以看到努子峰的南坡全貌，其与洛子峰分界于山脊 7545 米（24,754 英尺）的低点，山脊延伸近 6 公里（3¾英里），跨越多个山峰。它的名字意为“西峰”，因为主峰 7861 米（25,791 英尺）位于珠穆朗玛峰西部的西坳之西。当你看向山脊时，主峰是从左数第三座峰，实际上它看起来是最高点。1961 年，一支英国探险队通过南坡首次成功登顶，丹尼斯·戴维斯和塔什·夏尔巴首先到达顶峰，克里斯·博宁顿、莱斯·布朗、边巴·夏尔巴和吉姆·斯沃洛次日到达顶峰。到山脊路线的最后部分是通过一个可以清晰看到的主峰左侧的雪槽。目前，这个山坡上有多条攀登线路。

If Dingboche was chosen for an overnight stop, Pheriche will be seen below the trail the following day
如果选择在 Dingboche 过夜，第二天可以在小路下面看到 Pheriche

Shortly after Orsho, Pumori (7161m/23,494ft) appears to your left. This pyramid-shaped white mountain is one of the most beautiful in the Khumbu, and you will see it many more times on the way to EBC.
在奥尔索之后不久，普莫里峰（7161 米/23,494 英尺）出现在你的左边。这座金字塔形状的白色山峰是昆布地区最美丽的山峰之一，在前往 EBC 的途中你会多次看到它。

The trail forks by a large rock with direction arrows painted on it, about 700 metres from Orsho. The left branch rises to a small pass on a ridge, then descends to a bridgeover the Lobuche river (Khumbu Khola) before reaching Pheriche(4280m/14,042ft) about 2.3km (1½ miles) from here. The right-hand trail leads to another bridge at 4163m (13,658ft) just above the Lobuche’s confluence with the Imja Khola. It then climbs towards Dingboche (4320m/14,173ft), which you will reach about 1hr 15min from here. The two villages are separated by a long, low hill.
小路在一个大岩石处分叉，岩石上画有方向箭头，距 Orsho 约 700 米。左边的小径上升到山脊上的一个小山口，然后下降到 Lobuche 河(Khumbu Khola)上的桥梁，约 2.3 公里(1½英里)后到达 Pheriche(4280 米/14,042 英尺)。右边的小径通往另一个桥梁，海拔 4163 米(13,658 英尺)，位于 Lobuche 与 Imja Khola 汇合处的上方。然后它向 Dingboche(4320 米/14,173 英尺)攀升，从这里出发大约 1 小时 15 分钟即可到达。两个村庄之间被一座长而低的山丘分隔。

Pherichehas a medical aid-post run by the Himalayan Rescue Association (www.himalayanrescue.org) where at 3pm each day they give talks on acclimatisation. On the other hand, the option of staying in Dingbocheenables you to explore the upper part of the Imja Valley which is just as attractive as the upper Khumbu. However, when you leave the village to continue to Lobuche and EBC, there will be no need to descend to Pheriche as a scenic route passes above it on the way to Dughla where the trail from Pheriche is joined.
Pheriche 有一个由 Himalayan Rescue Association 运营的医疗救助站（www.himalayanrescue.org），每天下午 3 点在那里进行适应高原的讲座。另一方面，选择留在 Dingboche 可以让你探索 Imja 谷的上部，这和上部 Khumbu 一样迷人。然而，当你离开村庄继续前往 Lobuche 和 EBC 时，不需要下降到 Pheriche，因为一条风景优美的路线会经过它，通往 Dughla，在那里与从 Pheriche 来的小径汇合。

Once over the Lobuche river, the trail to Dingboche climbs above the western bank of the Imja Khola. Watch out for stone fall on a traverse of a steep slope which is followed in places here. Dingbochecomes into view after a series of moraines. A large settlement with many lodges, it enjoys a fantastic location surrounded by impressive peaks. Lhotse (8516m/27,940ft) with its awe-inspiring South Face dominates. Its second peak, Lhotse Shar (8383m/27,503ft), is to the right of the main one, with Lhotse Middle (8410m/27,592ft) between the two. The broad, glacier-covered mountain further to the right is Shartse (7459m/24,472ft). They all mark the border with Tibet. Island Peak (Imja Tse) is in the middle of the valley, with Cho Polu (6735m/22,096ft) the pyramid to the right of that. Just above Dingboche to the south-east, Ama Dablam is now seen from a new angle, and Taboche also has a fresh appearance. Do not miss the sunset, and get up early for spectacular morning views!
一旦越过 Lobuche 河，通往 Dingboche 的小路就会爬升到 Imja Khola 的西岸。小心陡坡上的落石，这里在一些地方会遇到这样的问题。越过一系列冰碛丘后，Dingboche 便映入眼帘。这个大型定居点拥有许多旅馆，地理位置绝佳，被令人印象深刻的山峰环绕。Lhotse (8516m/27,940ft) 以其令人敬畏的南壁为主导。它的第二座山峰 Lhotse Shar (8383m/27,503ft) 在主峰的右侧，而 Lhotse Middle (8410m/27,592ft) 位于两者之间。进一步靠右的是 Shartse (7459m/24,472ft)，这座宽阔的冰川覆盖的山峰标志着与西藏的边界。Island Peak (Imja Tse) 位于山谷中央，而 Cho Polu (6735m/22,096ft) 是其右侧的金字塔。在 Dingboche 的东南方上方，Ama Dablam 从一个新的角度看见，Taboche 也呈现出新面貌。不要错过日落，早点起床欣赏壮观的晨景！

As noted earlier, unless you are well acclimatised it is strongly recommended that you spend two nights in Dingboche before moving any higher, as you are at a significant altitude now. Altitude sickness can develop very quickly with possible fatal consequences if symptoms are ignored. Observe your body and the condition of those trekking with you. Ask the lodge owner where you could find help at night if needed. Take a good rest and drink plenty.
如前所述，除非你已经很好地适应了，否则强烈建议在前往更高海拔之前先在 Dingboche 停留两晚，因为你现在处于相当高的海拔。如果忽视症状，高原反应可能会非常迅速地发展并带来可能的致命后果。观察你的身体状况以及同行者的状况。询问旅馆主人在夜间需要帮助时可以去哪里。好好休息并多喝水。

Dingboche enjoys an awe-inspiring location, with Lhotse, Lhotse Middle and Lhotse Shar high above it
Dingboche 拥有令人敬畏的位置，Lhotse、Lhotse Middle 和 Lhotse Shar 高耸于其上

TIME IN DINGBOCHE
丁博切的时间

There are at least two options for a day spent in Dingboche. The ascent of Nangkartshang Peak is one, but only for those who feel completely well, as the peak is high and the ascent steep. A lighter alternative is a walk to Chukhung. It might be possible to combine the two, by climbing the peak in the morning and then walking towards Chukhung, but this will depend on your condition. Do not push yourself. It would be better to dedicate the day to complete rest and be able to reach EBC and Kala Patthar in the days to come, rather than exceed your limit here and find you have to descend.
在丁博切度过一天至少有两个选择。攀登南嘎尔强峰是其中一个选择，但仅适合那些感觉完全健康的人，因为峰高且攀登陡峭。一个轻松的替代选择是步行到楚昆。早上攀登峰顶然后步行到楚昆是可能的，但这取决于你的状况。不要勉强自己。最好是将这一天用于完全休息，以便在接下来的日子能够抵达珠峰大本营和卡拉帕塔尔，而不是在这里超出你的极限，最终不得不下山。

If you have more time, the upper part of the Imja Khola’s valley deserves thorough attention. Sleep two nights in Dingboche and then move to Chukhung for a night or two. Above the settlement, Chukhung Ri (5550m/18,209ft) could certainly rival Kala Patthar as one of the best viewpoints in the area, although Everest cannot be seen. A return hike towards Island Peak Base Camp can be also achieved on a half-day trip from Chukhung. This brings you into the heart of a high mountain landscape. All of these options are described below.
如果你有更多的时间，Imja Khola 山谷的上部值得细致关注。在 Dingboche 住两个晚上，然后前往 Chukhung 住一到两个晚上。在 Chukhung 村庄上方，Chukhung Ri（5550 米/18209 英尺）绝对可以与 Kala Patthar 媲美，成为该地区最佳的观景点之一，尽管无法看到珠穆朗玛峰。从 Chukhung 出发，半日即可往返于 Island Peak Base Camp。这将带你进入高山景观的中心。所有这些选项都在下面描述。

The normal route from Dingboche to Lobuche is described in Section 4. If you choose to spend more time in the upper part of the Imja Khola’s valley and sleep in Chukhung, you could still trek all the way from Chukhung to Lobuche via Dingboche in one day. An alternative route to Lobuche crosses the high and quite difficult Kongma La; beginning in Chukhung, it is described in the ‘Three Passes Trek’ (Trek 5) chapter.
从定波切到洛布切的正常路线在第 4 节中描述。如果你选择在因加科拉谷的上部地区多花些时间并住在朱昆，你仍然可以在一天内从朱昆经过定波切徒步到洛布切。到洛布切的替代路线是穿过高而相当困难的孔玛拉；从朱昆开始，这条路线在“穿越三大垭口徒步路线”（徒步 5）一章中有描述。

Nangkartshang Peak
南卡桑峰

There-and-back distance: 5km (3 miles); time: 4–5hr (about 2hr 30min to ascend and 1hr 30min to return); total ascent on outward leg, and altitude gain: 765m (2500ft); max altitude: 5083m (16,677ft)
往返距离：5 公里（3 英里）；时间：4-5 小时（上升约 2 小时 30 分，返回 1 小时 30 分）；去程总爬升和海拔增高：765 米（2500 英尺）；最大海拔：5083 米（16,677 英尺）

Carry sufficient water and food supplies for the entire trip. To climb Nangkartshang you need to reach the ridge which separates Dingboche and Pheriche. You could follow the main pathway up through the village, heading up-valley to the last lodges, then walk in the opposite direction taking the clear path that traverses the slope and leads onto the ridge. That’s convenient if you’re staying at one of the upper lodges, but if you’re in the lower part of the settlement it would be preferable to climb the ridge directly behind your lodge. There are many ways, and they are visible from most of the lodges.
为整个旅程准备充足的水和食物供应。要攀登 Nangkartshang，你需要到达 Dingboche 和 Pheriche 之间的山脊。你可以沿着村庄的主要路径上行，向山谷顶部的最后一个旅馆进发，然后走向相反的方向，沿着清晰的小路穿过斜坡，进入山脊。如果你住在上方的旅馆之一，这样会很方便，但如果你住在村庄的下部，最好直接从旅馆后面攀爬山脊。有很多路径，从大多数旅馆都可以看到。

Makalu – the fifth highest mountain on Earth – seen here from Nangkartshang Peak
马卡鲁——地球上第五高的山峰——在此从南卡特桑峰观望

Once on the ridge, follow it up to the right. Makalu (8463m/27,766ft), the world’s fifth highest mountain, is seen soon after reaching the ridge, from a point near the chorten and prayer flags. It is about 26km (16 miles) to the east, beyond all the ridges and peaks of the upper Imja Khola’s valley. Look towards Imja Tse (Island Peak; 6189m/20,305ft) which is in the centre of the valley. The pyramid-like mountain behind and slightly to the right of it is Cho Polu – a rarely climbed six-thousander. A long ridge continues, with Num Ri (6635m/21,768ft) being the next distinct peak. Makalu is just above and behind Num Ri. It was first climbed by a French team (Lionel Terray and Jean Couzy) in 1955 with other members of the same expedition summiting on subsequent days. Makalu had its first successful winter ascent in 2009 (Simone Moro and Denis Urubko); this effectively marked the end of the race for the first winter ascent of all of Nepal’s eight-thousanders. The mountain looks particularly stunning at sunset when it is the last place to be lit by the rays of the setting sun.
一旦到达山脊，向右沿着它走。马卡鲁峰（8463 米/27,766 英尺），世界第五高峰，在到达山脊后不久就可以看到，从佛塔和经幡附近的一个地方可以看到。它大约位于东方 26 公里（16 英里）处，超出了上因加库拉山谷的所有山脊和山峰。朝向因加西（岛峰；6189 米/20,305 英尺）看，它位于山谷的中心。在它后面稍右的是金字塔状的山峰乔波卢——一个鲜有人攀登的六千米山峰。一道长长的山脊延伸着，努姆里（6635 米/21,768 英尺）是下一个明显的山峰。马卡鲁峰就在努姆里的上方和后面。1955 年，马卡鲁峰首次被一支法国队（莱昂内尔·特拉伊和让·库齐）征服，同一探险队的其他成员在接下来的日子里也登顶成功。马卡鲁峰的首次成功冬季攀登是在 2009 年（西蒙·莫罗和丹尼斯·乌鲁布科）；这有效地标志着尼泊尔所有八千米峰首次冬季攀登竞赛的结束。日落时分，当它是最后一个被落日余晖照亮的地方时，这座山显得格外迷人。

The way to the top of Nangkartshang is obvious – simply follow the steep ridge up a clear path. The building seen clinging to a sheer slope on your right is a small gompa. As you gain height there is more to see: the houses of Pheriche appear below; Taboche and Cholatse rise on the other side of the Lobuche river (Khumbu Khola). To the right of those two giants, towards the north-west, there’s a lake and the few houses of Dzongla above it. This is on the way to the Cho La, which is up the second valley to the right above that settlement. Further to the right, the peak facing you with an impressive rock face is Lobuche East – a frequently climbed, so-called trekking peak.
通往 Nangkartshang 顶峰的道路显而易见——只需沿着陡峭的山脊沿着清晰的小路前行。右侧陡坡上的建筑是一个小寺庙。随着高度的增加，能看到更多景色：Pheriche 的房屋出现在下方；Taboche 和 Cholatse 在 Lobuche 河（Khumbu Khola）的另一侧耸立。在这两个巨人右侧，朝西北方向，有一个湖和 Dzongla 的几栋房屋。这是在通往 Cho La 的路上，位于该聚落上方右侧的第二个山谷。再往右，那座正面临着你且拥有令人印象深刻的岩壁的山峰是 Lobuche East ——一个经常被攀登的所谓徒步旅行山峰。

The end of the climb is rocky and a bit tougher. It is by no means a technical climb, and you soon reach the summit. It drops suddenly to rise again with a rock wall rising to another, higher peak which is inaccessible to non-climbers.
攀登的尽头崎岖不平，有点困难。它绝不是一次技术攀登，你很快就能到达山顶。它突然下降然后再次升高，形成了一个岩壁，通向另一个更高的山峰，这对于非攀登者是无法到达的。

From the top, glaciers and moraines as well as peaks, vertical walls and sharp ridges of the upper Imja Khola valley look particularly impressive. Among many others, Baruntse is worth your attention. As you look at Num Ri in front of and below Makalu, the ridge drops suddenly to the right, before rising again to the impressive Baruntse (7162m/23,497ft). It was first climbed in 1954 by a New Zealand Alpine Club expedition. Its North Face culminating at its north peak – Kali Himal, or Baruntse North – was first climbed in 2004. To the right of Ama Dablam there’s Kangtega and Thamserku among many others, and far down the valley, the well-known Kongde Ri can be seen. Right of the Cho La, just left of Lobuche East, another eight-thousander now makes an appearance: this is Cho Oyu (8201m/26,906ft).
在顶部，冰川和堆石以及山峰、垂直岩壁和上部因加科拉河谷的尖锐山脊显得格外壮观。在众多山峰中，巴伦塞值得您关注。当您查看在马卡鲁前面和下面的努姆里时，山脊突然向右下降，然后再次升至壮观的巴伦塞（7162 米/23,497 英尺）。1954 年，一个新西兰高山俱乐部的远征队首次登顶。其北面的北峰——卡利喜马拉，或称巴伦塞北峰——首次登顶于 2004 年。在阿玛达布拉姆的右侧有康特加和塔姆瑟库等众多山峰，而在山谷远下方，可以看到著名的孔代里。右边是 Cho La，正左边是 Lobuche 东，另一座八千米级山峰现在出现了：这就是卓奥友（8201 米/26,906 英尺）。

To return to Dingboche, retrace your steps.
要返回丁博切，沿原路返回。

Lhotse South Face Heroes’ (Kukuczka’s) Chorten and Chukhung
洛子峰南壁英雄（库库奇卡）的佛塔和楚昆恩

There-and-back distance: 10km (6 miles); time: 4hr (about 2hr 15min outward and 1hr 30min to return); total ascent/descent on outward leg: 430m (1410ft); altitude gain: 415m (1360ft); max altitude: 4735m (15,535ft)
往返距离：10 公里（6 英里）；时间：4 小时（去程约 2 小时 15 分钟，回程 1 小时 30 分钟）；去程总上升/下降：430 米（1410 英尺）；海拔增益：415 米（1360 英尺）；最大海拔：4735 米（15,535 英尺）

Follow the main trail that runs through Dingboche rising steadily up-valley. Just past the last lodges the path that crosses the ridge separating the Imja Khola and Lobuche river valleys cuts back to the left. Ignore this and continue beside a stone wall protecting fields on your right. Along here Makalu appears just to the right of and behind Num Ri (see the Nangkartshang route description, above, for more details). Beyond the last fields you walk across a fairly wide pasture. An indistinct path joins from your right after a few minutes. Note this for your return from Chukhung – you will need to take the path that runs above the fields instead of continuing on the pasture.
沿着穿过丁布切的主路径前行，沿着山谷稳步上升。刚过最后的旅馆，有一条穿过将因加河谷和洛布策河谷分隔的山脊的小路向左转回，不要理会，继续沿着保护右侧田地的石墙前行。在这里，马卡鲁山出现在努姆里山的右侧和后方（详细信息见上方的南卡尔冲线路描述）。越过最后的田地后，你会穿过一片相当宽的牧场。几分钟后，在右侧会有一条不太明显的小路连接过来。记住这一点，在从楚昆返回时，你需要选择沿着田地上方的小路，而不是继续走牧场路径。

It is a pleasant and fairly easy walk all the way from Dingboche to Chukhung. The path is clear. It runs up the main valley with the river to your right some way off. Ignore any paths that stray to the left, up the slope. About 1.5km (1 mile) beyond the last of Dingboche’s fields, a side stream is crossed – the Niyang Khola. The Kongma La is located in the upper part of its valley, but the usual route to it starts in Chukhung and follows a trail at this point, about 500m above you. Locals graze their yaks in the area so you can see herders’ shelters here and there. A major one is reached 1hr 45min–2hr after leaving Dingboche, just past a short, slightly steeper climb over stone debris. If a Sherpani is in the house, you could probably have a cup of tea here. Lhotse South Face Heroes’ Chorten– also known as Kukuczka’s Chorten (see below) – is seen just 40 metres further on at 4638m (15,217ft). It is 3.9km (2½ miles) from Dingboche with a height gain of around 320m (1050ft).
从 Dingboche 到 Chukhung 的全程步行既愉快又相当轻松。路径清晰明了。小道沿着主谷上行，右侧不远处有一条河流。忽略任何偏向左侧上坡的小路。在 Dingboche 最后一片田地之后约 1.5 公里（1 英里）处可以跨过一条支流——Niyang Khola。Kongma La 位于该山谷的上部，但通常的路线从 Chukhung 开始，并在这个位置的上方约 500 米处沿着一条小路。当地人在这一带放牧牦牛，所以你可以在此处看到牧民的庇护所。离开 Dingboche 后约 1 小时 45 分钟至 2 小时，可以到达一个重要的庇护所，就在攀登过石头碎屑的短而稍陡的路段之后。如果有个 Sherpani 在家，你可能可以在这里喝杯茶。洛子南壁英雄佛塔——也被称为 Kukuczka 的佛塔（见下文）——在进一步 40 米处的 4638 米（15,217 英尺）可以看到。它距离 Dingboche 3.9 公里（2½英里），海拔上升约 320 米（1050 英尺）。

Lhotse means ‘South Summit’ in the Sherpa language, and it rises to the south of Everest to which it is connected by a ridge from the well-known South Col. It was first climbed in 1956 by Fritz Luchsinger and Ernst Reiss, members of a Swiss expedition, and first climbed in winter by Krzysztof Wielicki – solo, during a 1988 Polish expedition. Interestingly, Lhotse’s central summit – Lhotse Middle – was the highest untrodden peak until as recently as 2001 when it was climbed by a Russian team via the South Col and the upper part of its North Face.
Lhotse 在夏尔巴语中意为“南峰”，位于珠穆朗玛峰的南侧，通过著名的南坳与其相连。1956 年，由瑞士探险队的成员弗里茨·卢钦格和恩斯特·赖斯首次登顶，1988 年波兰探险队期间，克日什托夫·维耶尔茨基在冬季首次单人攀登。有趣的是，Lhotse 的中央峰——Lhotse 中峰——直到 2001 年之前仍是世界上最高的未被踏足的山峰，当时一个俄罗斯团队通过南坳和其北壁上部首次成功登顶。

However, the Lhotse South Face, which is just above you, had no early ascent despite numerous attempts. It had attracted the best climbers for decades: Japanese and Italian expeditions tried in the 1970s; a Czech-Slovakian team successfully climbed the right side of the wall up to Lhotse Shar in 1984; while Reinhold Messner – the first man to climb all the eight-thousanders – also failed on the face. Some Polish climbers who had made successful winter ascents of eight-thousanders were defeated here, and these attempts were not without loss. The great Jerzy Kukuczka – probably the best-known Polish climber, and regarded by some as the finest mountaineer of all time – died in a fall near the top of the face above 8300m, close to the ridge. The wall was finally climbed by Sergei Bershov and Vladimir Karataev on a large Soviet expedition in 1990.
然而，尽管进行了多次尝试，在你上方的洛子峰南壁早期并未有人登顶。几十年来，它吸引了最优秀的登山者：日本和意大利的探险队曾在 20 世纪 70 年代尝试；1984 年，一支捷克-斯洛伐克队成功登上了洛子峰夏尔的右侧墙壁；而八千米峰的首位登顶者赖因霍尔德·梅斯纳也在此失败。曾成功完成八千米峰冬季登顶的波兰登山者在这里被击败，这些尝试并非没有损失。伟大的波兰登山者耶日·库库奇卡——可能是最知名的波兰登山者，有人认为他是史上最优秀的登山家——在约 8300 米的高度靠近山脊处不幸坠亡，临近山顶。最终，这面墙于 1990 年被谢尔盖·别尔绍夫和弗拉基米尔·卡拉塔耶夫在一次大型苏联探险中成功攀登。

The chorten that is passed on the way from Dingboche to Chukhung was founded by a Polish NGO in 2010. It is known as Kukuczka’s Chorten, although Kukuczka is just one of three ‘Lhotse South Face Heroes’, as the memorial explains. Standing here at 4638m (15,217ft), short of breath as you gaze at that immense 3000m-high wall, it is hard not to appreciate the courage of those who even dare to think about climbing it.
从丁博切到楚空的路上经过的佛塔是由一家波兰非政府组织于 2010 年建立的。虽然纪念碑解释称，库库奇卡只是三位“南壁英雄”之一，但它被称为库库奇卡佛塔。站在这里海拔 4638 米（15,217 英尺），当你凝视那巨大的 3000 米高墙而气喘吁吁时，很难不去欣赏那些即使只是想攀爬它的人的勇气。

Chorten dedicated to three Polish climbers who died in attempts on the South Face of Lhotse, seen behind it
用于纪念三位在攀登洛子峰南壁时遇难的波兰登山者的佛塔，可在其后方看到

Beyond Kukuczka’s Chorten the walk is a little harder as you cross more moraine debris, but just about 1km remains to Chukhung(4735m/15,535ft) with about 100m of altitude gain. Chukhung is not a village but a group of lodges which vary in size and comfort. If it is your acclimatisation day and you are planning to return to Dingboche for the night, staying here for an hour or two should be of significant benefit (unless you are feeling unwell, in which case you should descend to Dingboche without delay). A short 20min walk to the moraines above the settlement on the route towards Island Peak Base Camp (see below) is worth the effort.
在库库彻卡佛塔之后，步行会稍微困难一些，因为你要越过更多的冰碛碎石，但距离楚空（4735 米/15,535 英尺）仅剩大约 1 公里，海拔上升约 100 米。楚空不是一个村庄，而是一组旅馆，大小和舒适度各异。如果这是你的适应性休息日，并且你计划晚上返回丁波切，那么在这里停留一两个小时应该会有显著的好处（除非你感觉不适，那样的话你应该立即下降到丁波切）。朝向 Island Peak Base Camp（见下文）方向，前往聚落上方冰碛的短暂 20 分钟步行值得一试。

Retrace your steps to return to Dingboche.
返回丁波切，重走原路。

From Chukhung towards Island Peak (Imja Tse) Base Camp
从 Chukhung 到 Island Peak (Imja Tse)大本营

There-and-back distance: 9.5km (5¾ miles); time: 4hr (2hr 30min outward and 1hr 30min to return); total ascent/descent on outward leg: 320m (1050ft)/40m (130ft); altitude gain: 280m (920ft); max altitude: 5015m (16,453ft)
往返距离：9.5 公里 (5¾ 英里); 时间：4 小时 (2 小时 30 分钟出发，1 小时 30 分钟返回); 出发段总上升/下降：320 米 (1050 英尺)/40 米 (130 英尺); 海拔增益：280 米 (920 英尺); 最大海拔：5015 米 (16,453 英尺)

This hike starts at Chukhung(4735m/15,535ft) and finishes 1.6km before Island Peak Base Camp, but it could be easily extended as far as the BC – and if you’re pushed for time it would still be worthwhile and enjoyable to do a smaller portion of the described hike. The route starts in front of the Makalu Lodge. As you follow the main path through the settlement towards Imja Tse the lodge will be on your left. Turn right towards the stream which you need to cross on a small bridge; a sign marks the direction. Pumori can occasionally be seen behind you. The path is clear; it climbs a moraine and makes a gradual left turn. Some tiny paths turn off to the right to a viewpoint on a slightly higher hill some way off. Soon come onto the moraine crest with the Lhotse Glacier below on your left. It’s covered with so much rock debris that there’s little ice visible and some trekkers might find it hard to believe it really is a glacier. To the right there’s another, older lateral moraine of the same glacier, while the Ama Dablam Glacier is further away, hidden behind its own moraine walls. Unseen from this point, the Imja Khola flows between the two glaciers.
这次徒步从 Chukhung（4735 米/15535 英尺）出发，终点在距离 Island Peak Base Camp 1.6 公里处，但如果时间充裕，可以轻松延伸到 BC——即使时间紧迫，完成部分徒步也是值得和愉快的。路线从 Makalu Lodge 前出发。当您沿着穿过村落的主道向 Imja Tse 前进时，旅馆会在您的左侧。向右转朝小溪前进，您需要在一座小桥上跨过溪流；一个标志指示了方向。Pumori 偶尔可以在您身后看到。路径清晰；它沿着一条冰碛攀登并逐渐向左转。小径拐向右方，通往稍远处的一座略高的山丘上的观景点。不久后，会到达冰碛顶端，左下方是 Lhotse Glacier。它覆盖着大量的岩石碎屑，很少能看到冰，一些徒步者可能很难相信这真的是一条冰川。在右侧，是同一条冰川的另一条较老的侧冰碛，而 Ama Dablam Glacier 则更加远离，被其自身的冰碛墙遮挡。从这个点看不见，Imja Khola 在两条冰川之间流淌。

Note the ‘U’-shaped col in front of you. To the left of the col there’s Num Ri (6635m/21,768ft), while Baruntse (7162m/23,497ft) rises to the right. What you see here is the summit of Baruntse North, known as Kali Himal, and its North Face which was first climbed in 2004 via a 2550m-long route by Simone Moro, Bruno Tassi and Denis Urubko.
注意你前面的‘U’形山口。在山口的左边是努姆里峰（6635 米/21,768 英尺），而巴伦则峰（7162 米/23,497 英尺）在右边升起。你看到的是巴伦则北峰，也被称为 Kali Himal，其北坡首次攀登是在 2004 年，由 Simone Moro、Bruno Tassi 和 Denis Urubko 通过一条 2550 米长的路线完成的。

To the left, in the direction of Nuptse, Chukhung Ri can be seen. Look for a clear path leading to a broad saddle; the main peak is the first summit to the right of the saddle although the one to the left looks higher from this point.
在左边，朝向努子峰，可以看到楚空里。寻找一条清晰的小路通往一个宽阔的鞍部；主峰位于鞍部右侧的第一个山峰，尽管从这个角度看左侧的山峰显得更高。

The trail leaves the moraine ridge a bit further on and continues to rise between two moraines. Cho Polu (6735m/22,096ft) looks superb ahead, just to the right of Imja Tse. A short descent brings you into a picturesque valley. It’s possible that yaks will be grazing here. Continue in the valley for a while, then take the trail that rises along the moraine on your left, turning gradually in the direction of Imja Tse. Ignore all paths that lead to another moraine on your right where there’s a building and some prayer flags on it. Imja Tsho– a big lake formed in front of the Lhotse Shar, Imja and Amphulapcha glaciers – is just behind that moraine.
小路离开冰碛垄稍微往前，继续在两个冰碛之间上升。Cho Polu (6735 米/22,096 英尺) 显得非常壮观，就在 Imja Tse 的右侧。短暂的下降会让你进入一个风景如画的山谷。这里可能会有牦牛在吃草。在山谷中继续走一会儿，然后沿着左侧冰碛上升的小路，逐渐转向 Imja Tse 的方向。忽略所有通往右侧另一冰碛上小路的分叉，那边有一座建筑和一些经幡。Imja Tsho——是一个在 Lhotse Shar、Imja 和 Amphulapcha 冰川前形成的大湖——就在那个冰碛的后面。

The path soon reaches the valley floor and continues between moraines to reach a wider valley and then turns right. There are gorgeous views of Lhotse’s South Face which is really close now, rising monumentally in front of you. The base campis visible from a point about 300 metres beyond the turn. It is about 1.6km (1 mile) further up-valley although the exact location may change slightly year by year. You can return to Chukhung from this point as the author did, or continue to BC along the obvious path. The scenery is stunning on the return in the late afternoon.
小路很快到达山谷底部，并在冰碛之间继续前行，进入一个更宽的山谷，然后向右转。眼前近在咫尺的是洛子峰的南壁，景色壮丽。大约在转弯后 300 米处可以看到大本营。沿山谷向上大约还有 1.6 公里（1 英里），尽管确切位置可能每年略有变化。你可以像作者那样从这个点返回楚空，或者沿着明显的小路继续前往大本营。下午晚些时候返回时风景令人惊叹。

Hiking towards Island Peak Base Camp
徒步前往 Island Peak 大本营

From Chukhung to Chukhung Ri
从 Chukhung 到 Chukhung Ri

There-and-back distance: 6km (2¾ miles); time: 5hr–5hr 30min (about 3hr to ascend and 2hr to return); total ascent on outward leg, and altitude gain: 815m (2670ft); max altitude: 5550m (18,209ft)
往返距离：6 公里（2¾英里）；时间：5 小时至 5 小时 30 分钟（上升约 3 小时，下山约 2 小时）；外出时总上升高度和海拔增益：815 米（2670 英尺）；最高海拔：5550 米（18,209 英尺）

Chukhung (Chhukung) Ri is one of the NMA peaks (see Appendix B) which currently requires neither an additional permit nor climbing fee. Its height is significant, and it is more difficult than Kala Patthar and Gokyo Ri, but the climb is non-technical and requires no equipment. It is a fully walkable peak. You cannot see Everest from the top, which is probably one of the reasons why it has fewer ascents than the region’s other two major viewpoints, but it is not less interesting. You will see three eight-thousanders from the top among many other high peaks, and you won’t be as near to an 8000m peak at any other trekking viewpoint in the Khumbu.
Chukhung (Chhukung) Ri 是 NMA 峰之一（参见附录 B），目前不需要额外的许可证或攀登费用。它的高度非常显著，比 Kala Patthar 和 Gokyo Ri 更难，但攀登不需要技术和设备。它是完全可以步行的山峰。你无法从山顶看到珠穆朗玛峰，这可能是其攀登次数比该地区其他两个主要观景点少的原因之一，但并不意味着它不有趣。你将从山顶看到包括三个八千米山峰在内的许多其他高峰，并且在 Khumbu 的任何其他徒步观景点都不会如此接近一个 8000 米的山峰。

Take enough water supplies for the entire trip as there is no other source except the river you cross just after leaving Chukhung. There are no tea-shops on the way, so take sufficient food too.
为整个旅程准备足够的水，因为除了离开楚空后经过的河流外，没有其他水源。路上没有茶馆，所以也要带足够的食物。

As you look towards Lhotse from Chukhung, Chukhung Ri is the mountain behind the hill immediately above and to the left of you, towards the north. You can’t see the top from the main part of the settlement.
从楚空看向洛子峰时，楚空仁是你所在的左后方小山后的那座山，位于北面。从定居点的主要部分看不到山顶。

You need to cross the stream to the left of you as you look towards Lhotse. There’s a tiny bridge a little way up-valley, some 250 metres from the main part of Chukhung. Ask a lodge owner for the easiest way to the bridge, or simply approach the stream and walk up-valley.
你需要渡过你左边的小溪，当你面朝洛子峰时。在上游有一座小桥，距离楚康的主体部分约 250 米。问一下旅馆老板去桥的最佳路线，或者直接走到小溪边然后走向上游。

Beyond the bridge, climb to the steeply rising trail which heads up-valley in the direction of Lhotse, on the true right slope of the valley. The path is clear. Soon the top of Makalu appears on your right (towards the east).
越过桥，爬上陡峭上升的小径，沿着山谷方向向洛子峰前进，位于山谷的真正右坡。路径清晰。不久后，马卡鲁峰的顶部会出现在你的右侧（朝东）。

Just over 20min (550 metres) from the bridge, the path forks. The way to the right apparently continues along the Lhotse Nup Glacier, probably as far as a place where climbers set up their base camp during attempts on Nuptse. Continue on the main path to the left, rising steeply. A saddle between two hills – or rather a more gently ascending valley – is reached in another 400 metres. This is a good place for a short break at around 5000m (16,404ft). The continuing way should be clearly visible from this point unless the path is covered with snow. A short gentle uphill is followed by a steep climb to another saddle. With rocky summits on the right, the left peak seems to be the main walkable goal. However, the main summit of Chukhung Ri is the first rocky hill to the right of the pass, still a long walk from here.
从桥出发仅 20 多分钟（550 米），小路分岔。右边的路似乎沿着 Lhotse Nup Glacier 继续，很可能通向攀登 Nuptse 时登山者设置营地的地方。继续沿着左边的主路陡然上升。在再向前 400 米处到达一个位于两个山丘之间的鞍部——或者更确切地说，是一个缓缓上升的山谷。这是一个在大约 5000 米（16,404 英尺）处进行短暂休息的好地方。除非小路被雪覆盖，否则从这一点应该可以清晰看到继续的道路。一个短缓坡之后是一个陡坡，通向另一个鞍部。右边是岩石顶峰，左边的山峰似乎是主要可行的目标。然而，Chukhung Ri 的主要顶峰是鞍部右侧的第一个岩石山丘，从这里到那仍有很长的路程。

The Imja Lake comes into view behind on your right, as you negotiate another steeper part of the ascent. Clearly, it has been formed between the terminal moraines and the glacier snout with some parts of the glacier probably still beneath the water. Such glacial lakes grow quickly, and are potentially dangerous as they can cause flooding. There is an impressive wall behind the lake. This is Baruntse North (Kali Himal; 7057m/23,153ft). The main peak of Baruntse (7162m/23,497ft) can also be seen from here.
当你爬升到一个更陡峭的部分时，Imja Lake 出现在你右后方。很明显，它是在终碛和冰川末端之间形成的，冰川的一些部分可能仍然在水下。这类冰川湖泊增长迅速，并且潜在危险，因为它们可能会导致洪水。湖后有一面令人印象深刻的墙。这是 Baruntse North (Kali Himal; 7057m/23,153ft)。Baruntse 的主峰 (7162m/23,497ft) 也可以从这里看到。

The final climb to the saddle, which is at about 5360m (17,585ft), is made via a series of short, steeply climbing zig-zags. It takes over 2hr to get to the saddle from Chukhung and it’s still around 45min of laborious climbing from here to reach the main summit at the end of the ridge that starts on your right-hand side. In front of you the slope drops dramatically towards the Nuptse Glacier. To the left, the lower summit is not much higher than the saddle itself, and is certainly much easier than the other peak. To reach the main summit, continue to the right, following the ridge on big, loose stones. It is not easy as some of them move, and the altitude is significant. The path divides in places and traces one side of the ridge or the other, but in general you need to follow the ridge itself, sticking near to it as far as the summit which is clearly the highest among all the other rocky peaks on the right side of the saddle. You will surely be happy to reach the summitat about 5550m (18,209ft), marked with a big pile of stones and some prayer flags.
最后攀登到约 5360 米（17585 英尺）的鞍部是通过一系列短而陡峭的之字形路径进行的。从 Chukhung 到鞍部需要超过 2 小时，从这里到山脊末端的主峰仍需大约 45 分钟艰难的攀登。您面前的山坡急剧下降到 Nuptse Glacier。在左边，较低的山峰比鞍部本身高不了多少，而且肯定比另一个峰容易。要到达主峰，请继续向右，沿着松散的大石头上的山脊前进。这并不容易，因为其中一些石头会移动，而且海拔很高。小路在有些地方分叉，沿山脊的某一侧或另一侧走，但通常您需要跟随山脊本身，一直紧靠它直到显然是所在鞍部右侧众多岩峰中最高的峰顶。您一定会很高兴到达约 5550 米（18209 英尺）的山顶，那里有一大堆石头和一些经幡作标记。

What a view! Just ahead towards the NNW, the beautiful pyramid-like mountain is Pumori. Kala Patthar in the upper Khumbu is just below it (but not visible from here). To the left of Pumori, the sloping table-like mountain is Cho Oyu (8201m/26,906ft). Immediately to the right (N) of you, and seemingly just a hand-length away, is the wall of Nuptse (7861m/25,791ft) with its base some 300m below and the top 2300m above! Lhotse (8516m/27,940ft) is further to the right (NE), in striking distance of just about 6.6km (4 miles) but almost 3km higher! Imja Tse (Island Peak) is to the east of you with Makalu (8463m/27,766ft) rising behind it. Below, towards Chukhung, all the glaciers and moraines look spectacular, as is the distant view down-valley with Dingboche, Pangboche and Tengboche all visible, Kongde Ri closing the Khumbu and mountains of the Rolwaling Himal rising above and behind it. Towards the west, the Kongma La (on the route of the Three Passes Trek) can be identified 4.3km (2½ miles) away as the crow flies. Pokalde (5806m/19.049ft) is the rocky mountain just left of the Kongma La; the highest in the region which does not require any permit or fee to climb it.
多么壮观的景色！就在偏北西北方向，那个美丽的金字塔形山峰是 Pumori。上库布的 Kala Patthar 就在它下面（但从这里不可见）。在 Pumori 的左边，那座斜坡状的桌子形山峰是 Cho Oyu（8201 米/26,906 英尺）。紧靠您的右边（北），仿佛触手可及的是 Nuptse（7861 米/25,791 英尺）的山壁，其基底约在下方 300 米处，而顶部则高出 2300 米！Lhotse（8516 米/27,940 英尺）位于更右侧（东北方向），距离大约 6.6 公里（4 英里）但几乎高出 3 公里！Imja Tse（岛峰）在您的东方，背后是 Makalu（8463 米/27,766 英尺）升起。下方，朝向 Chukhung，所有的冰川和岩脊都十分壮观，远处的下游视野中可以看到 Dingboche、Pangboche 和 Tengboche，以及 Kongde Ri 封闭的库布区域和 Rolwaling Himal 的山脉在其后方拔地而起。向西方向，Kongma La（在三垭口徒步路线）可以被认出，空中距离 4.3 公里（2½英里）。Pokalde（5806 米/19.049 英尺）是 Kongma La 左边的岩石山峰——该地区最高的无需许可或费用攀登的山。

Retrace your steps to return to Chukhung.
沿原路返回楚孔。

The main summit of Chukhung Ri is the rocky peak to the right of the visible pass. Directly above it is the main summit of Nuptse
Chukhung Ri 的主要峰顶是可见山口右侧的岩石峰顶。其正上方是 Nuptse 的主要峰顶。

SECTION 4
第 4 节

Dingboche (or Pheriche) to Lobuche
Dingboche（或 Pheriche）到 Lobuche

StartDingboche (4320m/14,173ft) or Pheriche (4280m/14,050ft)FinishLobuche (4930m/16,175ft)Distance8km (5 miles) from Dingboche; 8km (5 miles) from PhericheTotal ascent665m (2180ft) (Dingboche–Lobuche)Total descent55m (180ft) (Dingboche–Lobuche)Time4hr 45min–5hr 30min from Dingboche (2hr 45min return to Pheriche)Max altitude4930m (16,175ft)Min altitude4320m (14,174ft)Altitude gain610m (2000ft) (Dingboche–Lobuche)
起点丁波切 (4320 米/14,173 英尺) 或佩里切 (4280 米/14,050 英尺) 终点洛布切 (4930 米/16,175 英尺) 距离从丁波切 8 公里 (5 英里); 从佩里切 8 公里 (5 英里) 总上升 665 米 (2180 英尺) (丁波切–洛布切) 总下降 55 米 (180 英尺) (丁波切–洛布切) 时间从丁波切 4 小时 45 分–5 小时 30 分 (返回佩里切 2 小时 45 分) 最大学高 4930 米 (16,175 英尺) 最小高度 4320 米 (14,174 英尺) 高度增益 610 米 (2000 英尺) (丁波切–洛布切)

After an initial sharp ascent, this section – if started in Dingboche – takes a gently rising then descending route to Dughla (Thukla) before embarking on a strenuous climb to the Thokla pass and continuing onward to Lobuche, with memorable views throughout.
在最初陡峭的攀升之后，这一段——如果从 Dingboche 开始——会先缓缓上升然后下降到达 Dughla（Thukla），然后进行艰难的攀登到 Thokla 山口，并继续前往 Lobuche，整个过程中充满了难忘的景色。

There are no tea-houses between Dingboche and Dughla and the only water source you pass between the two settlements is about 2hr 15min from the start, so carry sufficient supplies.
在丁波切和杜格拉之间没有茶馆，并且你在两个定居点之间经过的唯一水源大约在开始后 2 小时 15 分钟，所以请携带足够的补给。

It will take 2hr 30min–3hr 15min to walk from Dingboche to Dughla, covering 4.8km (3 miles) and involving a height gain of 290m (951ft).Climb the ridge that separates Dingboche and Pheriche. From Dingbocheyou could follow the main pathway up-valley to the last lodges and then take the trail cutting back to the left, which rises across the slope to the top of the ridge. That’s convenient if you’re starting from one of the upper lodges, but if you stayed in the lower part of the village it would be preferable to climb the ridge directly behind your lodge. There are many ways to do it; ask the lodge owner for the most practical route. Be aware that you do not need to get to the very highest part of the ridge.
从丁博切步行到杜格拉需要 2 小时 30 分钟到 3 小时 15 分钟，路程 4.8 公里（3 英里），海拔增加 290 米（951 英尺）。攀登分隔丁博切和佩里切的山脊。从丁博切可以沿主路径向山谷尽头的最后几家旅馆走，然后走左侧的小径，沿坡顶到达山脊顶端。如果你从上面的旅馆出发，这样很方便，但如果你住在村子下部，那直接攀登旅馆后面的山脊会更好。有很多方法可以做到这点；问询旅馆老板最实用的路线。注意不需要到达山脊的最高点。

After the initial climb above Dingboche a scenic traverse is followed with the Lobuche East peak just ahead
在经过 Dingboche 的初始攀登后，一个风景如画的横穿随之而来，Lobuche East 峰就在前方

Once you’re on the ridge you will find there are many pathways; unless you wish to drop down to Pheriche, you can follow any one of those that head NNW towards Lobuche East, as they all join after about 1km and continue as one, rising steadily.
一旦你到了山脊，你会发现有很多小路；除非你想往下到达 Pheriche，否则你可以选择任何一条通往 Lobuche East 的 NNW 方向的小路，因为它们在大约 1 公里后会合并为一条，继续稳步上升。

Taboche (6495m/21,309ft) and Cholatse(6440m/21,129ft) dominate the view on your left and the buildings of Pheriche can sometimes be seen below. Taboche has been your companion for some time already, while for the first time Cholatse appears in its full glory. It was first climbed in 1982 by a small alpine-style Anglo-American expedition shortly after the first-ever permit was issued, and was the last of the unclimbed named peaks in the Khumbu. Its North Face, which is partially seen on this route, was climbed solo in alpine style by Ueli Steck in 2005.
塔博切峰 (6495m/21,309ft) 和乔拉措峰 (6440m/21,129ft) 主导着你左边的景观，而佩里切的建筑有时可以在下方看到。塔博切峰已经陪伴了你一段时间，而乔拉措峰则首次以全貌出现。1982 年，一支小型英美联合远征队在首次颁发攀登许可后不久首次成功登顶，它是昆布地区最后一个未被攀登的命名山峰。这条路线的部分北坡在 2005 年被乌利·史提克采用阿尔卑斯风格单人攀登成功。

A few herders’ huts are passed about 1hr 20min (2.3km) after leaving Dingboche. This is about halfway to Dughla. Ahead, the valley divides. The one directly ahead leads to the Cho La and is used by trekkers making for Gokyo (see Trek 5). The valley to the right is the Khumbu, but before you reach the fork, about 1.5km from the huts, Pumori appears on your right (N), at the head of the Khumbu Valley. Lobuche East (6119m/20,075ft), which will have been in your sights for a while, is now just in front of you to the NNW.
离开丁波切大约 1 小时 20 分钟（2.3 公里）后经过几个牧民的小屋。这大约是到达杜格拉的中途。前方，山谷分岔。正前方的那条通往 Cho La，经常被前往 Gokyo 的徒步旅行者使用（见徒步旅行 5）。右边的山谷是库姆布谷，但在到达分岔处之前，大约距小屋 1.5 公里处，普莫里山出现在右侧（北方），位于库姆布谷的尽头。一直在你视线中的洛布切东峰（6119 米/20075 英尺）现在就在你正前方的北西北方向。

Lobuche (Lobuje) Eastis one of the Group B peaks on the NMA (Nepal Mountaineering Association) list (Lobuche West is a different peak), and is said to require more technical climbing than other so-called trekking peaks of the region, like Mera and Imja Tse. However, it often attracts commercial teams, and you may well see the tents of base camp, and climbers on the glacier heading for the ridge. The usual route follows the south-east ridge (which can be clearly seen from the trail) to the crest where Camp 2 is set. If you have binoculars you might be able to pick out tents perched in an airy location on the ridge.
Lobuche（Lobuje）东峰是尼泊尔登山协会（NMA）名单上的 B 组山峰之一，据说比该地区其他所谓的徒步峰（如 Mera 和 Imja Tse）需要更多的技术攀登。然而，它经常吸引商业团队，你可能会看到大本营的帐篷和在冰川上朝山脊攀登的登山者。常规路线沿着东南脊（从小路上可以清楚地看到）到达设置了 2 号营地的山脊顶部。如果你有双筒望远镜，你可能可以看到山脊上一个空旷位置的帐篷。

The path bears right and gradually descends towards the Lobuche river (Khumbu Khola), and is joined by the trail from Pheriche (from the left) before descending a bit and crossing the river at about 4600m (15,100ft). (Note that the Pheriche path is taken on the return to Namche – unless you are following Trek 5.) The small bridge that used to be here and a part of the old trail was damaged by a landslide during a summer monsoon in 2017 and the temporary path (as experienced by the author in spring 2018) might improve in the near future. Beyond the crossing, a short and steep climb brings you to the few lodges of Dughla(Thukla; 4610m/15,125ft), the last collection of lodges and teahouses before Lobuche. On the return it takes about 1hr 30min to cover the 4.3km (1¾ miles) from here to Pheriche on an easy, scenic route, mostly along the valley floor on the left bank of the Lobuche river.
小路向右延伸并逐渐下降至洛布切河（Khumbu Khola），与从佩里切来的小路（从左侧）汇合，之后向下走一点并在约 4600 米（15,100 英尺）处过河。（注意返回南崎时会走佩里切的路——除非你走的是徒步路线 5。）这里曾经有一座小桥，是旧小路的一部分，于 2017 年夏季季风期间被山体滑坡损坏，临时小路（作者在 2018 年春季体验过）可能在不久的将来得到改善。过河之后，一段短而陡的攀爬会将你带到杜克拉（Thukla；4610 米/15,125 英尺）的小旅馆，这是洛布切前最后一片旅馆和茶屋的聚集地。返回时，从这里到佩里切大约需要 1 小时 30 分钟，走的是一条风景优美的简单路线，大部分沿河谷地带的左岸行走。

From Pheriche
从 Pheriche

Starting in Pheriche, follow the valley upstream on a very clear path. It is a gradual ascent in pleasant surroundings on the wide valley floor with yaks grazing here and there. Taboche Peak is just above you on your left, and Cholatse further up-valley. Ama Dablam, at the back, is seen here from a new perspective, no less impressive. A summer shepherds’ settlement is passed 2km (1¼ miles) after leaving Pheriche and a valley appears on the right-hand side. This needs to be followed on a clear, steeply ascending path which joins the route from Dingboche about 1.6km (1 mile) from the shepherds’ settlement, shortly before reaching Dughla
从 Pheriche 出发，沿着非常清晰的小路逆流而上。这是在宽阔的山谷地面上轻松愉悦的渐进式攀升，偶尔可见牦牛在这里那里的吃草。Taboche 峰就在你左边上方，而 Cholatse 则在上游更远处。远处的 Ama Dablam 从这里可以看到一个新的角度，同样令人印象深刻。离开 Pheriche 后约 2 公里（1¼英里）经过一个夏季牧羊人定居点，右边出现一个山谷。需要沿着清晰而陡峭的上升小路，这条小路在距牧羊人定居点约 1.6 公里（1 英里）处与 Dingboche 的路线汇合，随后不久到达 Dughla。

Beyond Dughla the major climb of this section must be negotiated. It is a laborious job on stone steps, but it is neither very steep nor long. What you are climbing here is, in fact, the terminal moraine of the famous Khumbu Glacier, and at the top of the steepest part – marked with prayer flags and shown as a pass (the Thoklapass; 4825m/15,830ft) on most maps – is where the slope changes its angle. Nevertheless, it is a special place, as there are dozens of cairns, mani-stones and chortens dedicated to those who have lost their lives attempting to climb the world’s highest mountain. There will no doubt be names with which you are familiar. Among many others, there are memorials to those who died on 25 April 2015 when the earthquake hit Nepal and triggered a massive avalanche which swept into the Everest Base Camp, leaving many dead or injured.
超过 Dughla，这一段的主要攀爬部分必须完成。尽管在石阶上行走非常费力，但它既不很陡也不长。实际上，你正在攀爬的是著名的 Khumbu 冰川的终碛，而在最陡的部分顶部——用经幡标记并在大多数地图上显示为通道的位置（Thoklapass；4825 米/15,830 英尺）——是坡度改变其角度的地方。尽管如此，这里是一个特殊的地方，因为这里有许多石堆、玛尼石和佛塔，献给那些尝试攀登世界最高峰而失去生命的人们。在这里你无疑会看到一些你熟悉的名字。其中有许多是纪念在 2015 年 4 月 25 日地震袭击尼泊尔并引发巨大的雪崩冲向珠穆朗玛峰大本营而遇难或受伤的人们的纪念碑。

One of the memorials on Thokla Pass dedicated to those who have died attempting to climb Everest
在 Thokla Pass 的一处纪念碑，献给那些在攀登珠穆朗玛峰中遇难的人们

The gradient eases as you continue towards the NNW, before gradually turning to the right (NNE) into a valley which runs parallel to the glacier on its true right (western) side. If the weather is clear you may see Kala Patthar for the first time; this is the black hill at the foot of the rocky face of Pumori. In the side valley on your left you might also see tents at Lobuche East Base Camp. A trail seen to your left, cutting along the valley’s opposite slope and running towards the south, leads to Dzongla and the Cho La and is taken on the Three Passes Trek (Trek 5).
随着你继续向北西北方向前进，坡度逐渐减缓，然后逐渐向右转（北东北），进入一个与冰川右侧（西侧）平行的山谷。如果天气晴朗，你可能会首次看到卡拉帕塔尔；这是一座在普莫里岩石面脚下的黑色山丘。在你左边的侧谷中，你可能还会看到洛布切东大本营的帐篷。在你左边可以看到的步道，沿着山谷对面的斜坡向南延伸，通往宗拉和 Cho La，并在三个山口徒步（徒步 5）中使用。

You are soon joined by the trail from Dzongla, with about 1.3km (30min) left to trek to Lobuche along the gently rising valley floor. Just before reaching the main part of Lobuche, the route from the Kongma La (see Trek 5) comes down from the other side of the glacier on the right. There are seven or eight lodges and a porter’s shelter in Lobuche, and another lodge about 45min beyond the settlement (see the next section).
你很快就会与来自 Dzongla 的小径汇合，沿着缓缓上升的山谷地面还剩大约 1.3 公里（30 分钟）到 Lobuche。在到达 Lobuche 的主要部分之前，来自 Kongma La（参见 Trek 5）的路线从右边的冰川另一侧下来。Lobuche 有七八家旅馆和一个搬运工的避难所，在村落之外约 45 分钟的地方还有另一家旅馆（参见下一部分）。

LOBUCHE

A pretty odd system of payment has been introduced here, presumably to stop competing lodges from renting rooms too cheaply. Unless you stay at the Eco Lodge, which has higher prices anyway, you pay a minimum room fee at the booth located at the beginning of the settlement, and then show the receipt at your chosen lodge where you’ll pay an additional fee if the rooms are more expensive.
这里引入了一种相当奇怪的支付系统，大概是为了阻止竞争的旅馆以过低的价格出租房间。除非你住在即使价格较高的 Eco Lodge，否则你需要在定居点入口的展台支付最低房费，然后在你选择的旅馆出示收据，如果房间更贵的话，还需支付额外费用。

Nuptse dominates the view from the other side of the Khumbu Glacier. The highest point is the third summit from the left (see Section 3 for more information about Nuptse), and the mountain looks particularly stunning at sunset. The very top of Pumori can be seen from some parts of Lobuche; again it looks gorgeous in the final light of day. A short trip to the top of the Khumbu moraine is worth the effort, but be prepared for a cold wind in the late afternoon.
努子峰主导了坤布冰川另一侧的景观。最高点是从左数第三个山峰（有关努子峰的更多信息，请参见第 3 节），这座山在日落时显得尤为壮丽。从洛布切的某些地方可以看到普莫里峰的顶端；在一天结束时的光线下，它也显得极为迷人。短途前往坤布冰碛顶端值得付出努力，但请准备好应对傍晚的寒风。

Observe yourself and your partners for any possible signs of altitude sickness, and be prepared to act if any symptoms of the sickness should develop. Making the right decision at this altitude is particularly important; any delay to evacuate someone with HAPE or HACE may quickly become fatal. Re-check the ‘Altitude sickness’ section in this book’s introduction. Spend at least two nights in Lobuche before going any higher if you have not already spent a night higher than Dingboche or Pheriche (see next section).
观察自己和你的同伴是否有任何可能的高原反应迹象，如果出现任何症状，要做好准备采取行动。在这个高度做出正确的决策尤其重要；如果拖延撤离患有 HAPE 或 HACE 的人，可能会很快致命。在本书的介绍部分重新检查‘高原反应’部分。如果你还没有在比 Dingboche 或 Pheriche 更高的地方过夜，那么在继续攀登之前，请至少在 Lobuche 停留两个晚上（见下一节）。

SECTION 5
第 5 节

Lobuche to Gorakshep
Lobuche 到 Gorakshep

StartLobuche (4930m/16,175ft)FinishGorakshep (5170m/16,962ft)Distance4.5km (2¾ miles)Total ascent310m (1020ft)Total descent70m (230ft)Time2hr 45min–3hr (2hr for the return)Max altitude5200m (17,060ft) (moraine above Gorakshep)Min altitude4930m (16,175ft)Altitude gain240m (790ft) 重试    错误原因

Gorakshep is the departure point for both the hike to EBC and the ascent of Kala Patthar. If you arrived in Lobuche directly from Dingboche or Pheriche without spending a night at an intermediate altitude, you will have gained more than 500m, so you should spend at least two nights in Lobuche before moving on for a night in Gorakshep (see ‘Altitude sickness’ in this book’s introduction). Trekking there-and-back to Kala Patthar or EBC on a day trip from Lobuche, without sleeping at Gorakshep, is strongly recommended. Besides reasons of acclimatisation, Gorakshep is significantly colder than Lobuche, accommodation is more basic and water supplies often limited, and it is almost 250m higher than Lobuche – which is a very significant difference at this altitude. 重试    错误原因

A gradual ascent is made to Gorakshep. This would be quite an easy walk if it were not for the altitude, which is an important factor. The second half of the route is a little more difficult as a glacier and heaps of moraines are crossed. There is a path on the glacier and you mostly walk on stone debris rather than clear ice, so crampons are unnecessary. Unless covered with fresh snow, the crossing is straightforward. However, do not cross the glacier at night as the route might be confusing in the darkness. Therefore, if you plan to return to Lobuche after climbing Kala Patthar or reaching EBC, it is important to make an early start from Lobuche. Another reason for an early start is the fact that the route gets very busy in the high season with possible delays on the moraine. And as mornings usually enjoy better weather, it’s probably best to start between 5am and 6am. 重试    错误原因

From Lobuchefollow the trail up the main valley (at first NE, then NNE further on), with the Khumbu Glacier’s lateral moraine on your right-hand side. The path is clear all the way, keeping to the valley floor at the beginning near the left-hand slope which is part of the terminal moraine of the Lobuche Glacier. About 15min (and 800 metres) after leaving Lobuche the main path bears slightly left to enable you to skirt another low moraine that runs parallel to the Khumbu Glacier. A side valley joins here. 重试    错误原因

A signboard indicates a lodge (the 8000m Inn) and the Pyramid International Laboratory/Observatory(www.evk2cnr.org) some 500 metres up this side valley. If you visit the observatory you could continue above it to reach a lake which is known for its fantastic views. Ask locally for details. 重试    错误原因

Beyond the side valley, follow the main path that runs between hills towards the NNE. This is the way to Gorakshep. The low moraine ridge finishes some 800 metres further on, and the main lateral moraine of the Khumbu Glacier is seen once more. You cross the 5000m contour somewhere along here. 重试    错误原因

About 1hr (2.5km/1½ miles) after leaving Lobuche you will reach a place where a short steep ascent needs to be made in order to cross a series of moraines – old ones at the beginning and active ones further on – of the Changri Glacier, which flows from the left. The ascent eases past a chorten but the walk soon becomes harder as you first reach stone debris, and then the glacier itself beyond a short descent. Be sure to follow the main path. Whenever you are uncertain about the route, look for the small cairns which mark the way. 重试    错误原因

Crossing the moraines of the Changri Glacier shortly before Gorakshep, with Kala Patthar seen clearly below Pumori 重试    错误原因

Occasionally Kala Patthar can be seen. This is the hill at the foot of Pumori (7161m/23,494ft) with the black stones or rocks at the top. That is exactly what the name means – ‘black rock’. What you see from here is the southern, lower summit at 5550m (18,209ft). There is a tiny path on the left-hand side of the slope, but these days most trekkers follow the very clear path in the centre which leads to the main 5645m (18,520ft) summit. 重试    错误原因

The gigantic Nuptse still obscures Everest, but its very top can be spotted from some parts of the glacier – at last, having been hidden from view for a few days! 重试    错误原因

PUMORI (7161M/23,494FT) 重试    错误原因

Meaning ‘Daughter Peak’ in the Tibetan language, Pumori was named by George Mallory during the 1921 Everest expedition. It was first climbed in 1962 by a Swiss-German team, and the normal route of ascent is up the South-East Face to the east ridge – on the right-hand side of the mountain as seen from the approach to Gorakshep. Said to be not very difficult, the route is nevertheless prone to avalanches and has claimed many lives. There are other routes too, including that on the South Face (above Kala Patthar), one on the south-west ridge (left of Kala Patthar) and another on the West Face. Among other successful attempts, that of 2001 is particularly interesting, as it was made during the first ever expedition by Iranian women mountaineers to the Nepal Himalaya. Three of the eight women in the team reached the summit, opening the way for the first Iranian woman to stand on Everest’s summit four years later 重试    错误原因

On the other side of the glacier a short and fairly steep ascent of the next lateral moraine brings you to the highest point on the trail at 5200m (17,060ft). Gorakshep is below you. Lingtren (6749m/22,142ft) is the next peak to the right of Pumori, and the col between them is the point from which George Mallory first gazed into the Khumbu when searching for a route to the summit of Everest from the Tibetan side. Further along the ridge beyond another col, the peak to the right of Lingtren is Khumbutse (6636m/21,772ft), after which the ridge – which marks the border with Tibet – drops to the Lho La at 6006m (19,705ft). The big, impressive mountain behind the Lho La on the Tibetan side is Changtse (7580m/24,869ft) – the ‘North Peak’. This was first climbed in 1982 by a German team, but there were earlier attempts including that of Eric Shipton and his team during the 1935 Everest reconnaissance expedition. 重试    错误原因

What looks like a massive mountain to the right of the Lho La is actually the West Shoulder of Mount Everest, which itself is further to the right along the same ridge. The Khumbu Glacier has its sharp turn below the Lho La and these days the location of the base camp is on the actual glacier. In the climbing season of April and May, you might be able to spot tents to the left of the glacier’s bend. To the right of EBC the infamous – and highly dangerous – Khumbu Icefall can be seen. 重试    错误原因

In addition to serac and crevasse danger in the Icefall, the base camp is prone to avalanchesthat pour from the slopes of Pumori, Lingtren, Khumbutse, the Lho La and the West Shoulder. Twice in recent years tragedy has struck EBC and the Icefall. In April 2014 an avalanche killed 16 Sherpas as they were fixing ropes and ladders in the Icefall, and the following year an avalanche triggered by the major earthquake flattened the base camp, causing 22 deaths. 重试    错误原因

There are three or four lodges in Gorakshep, making this the final settlement in the Khumbu Valley. There are few water sources nearby, so lodge owners limit the supply of water for washing. The 1952 Swiss Everest expedition used this site as their base camp, while the successful British expedition in 1953 had their base camp on the glacier further up-valley. 重试    错误原因

Looking back towards Gorakshep and the Khumbu Glacier from the path leading to the top of Kala Patthar 重试    错误原因

SECTION 6A 重试    错误原因

Ascent of Kala Patthar (5645m/18,520ft) 重试    错误原因

Start/FinishGorakshep (5170m/16,962ft)Distance4km (2½ miles)Total ascent/descent485m (1590ft)Time4hr (about 2–3hr to ascend and 45min–1hr to return)Max altitude5645m (18,520ft) (Kala Patthar)Min altitude5170m (16,962ft) (Gorakshep)Altitude gain475m (1560ft) between Gorakshep and Kala Patthar summit 重试    错误原因

Although steep and at high altitude, the route up Kala Patthar is otherwise neither difficult nor technical, but simply a matter of walking up (and then back down) a steep zig-zag path. It is only the top few metres where you need to negotiate a way over a boulder-field of large stones. Everest makes an appearance a short way above Gorakshep to give fantastic views, so even if you fail to reach the very top, it is still worth the attempt. There is no water on the way so take sufficient with you. 重试    错误原因

There are two ways up, with the left-hand, lesser-used, clear path leading to the lower southern summit (unvisited by the author). The right-hand route leads to the main summit; to take it, set off from Gorakshepin the direction of Pumori, crossing the flat area below the lodges, and start to climb a very clear, steeply ascending path. This eases into a gentler ascent over a kind of terrace where, to the right of the path, sightseeing helicopters occasionally land, bringing tourists from lower altitudes. They stop for just a few minutes to let the clients take photos before the impact of the altitude hits them. Everest is clearly seen from here and the panorama is marvellous. 重试    错误原因

The way becomes steeper again, and the path veers slightly left, heading a little left of Pumori. A zig-zag path brings you to the col between the summits at around 5595m (18,356ft). The slope on the western side drops dramatically towards the Changri Shar Glacier; the main summitis just to the right of you – just a few minutes away by a slow climb. 重试    错误原因

KALA PATTHAR: A SUBLIME VIEWPOINT 重试    错误原因

As you study Everest, the mountain is just 9.5km (6 miles) away as the crow flies. To the right of the summit you can see the South-East Ridge, with two important features evident just below the top of the ridge. The 8748m (28,701ft) South Summit can be recognised, as can the Hillary Step above it, halfway to the true summit – the final major obstacle for those following in the footsteps of Tenzing and Hillary. The South-East Ridge slopes down to the South Col, which is the location of Camp IV (7906m/25,938ft), the highest used by most expeditions – including the first winter climb, by Krzysztof Wielicki and Leszek Cichy on a 1979/80 Polish expedition, as well as the plethora of today’s commercial expeditions. To the right of the South Col the ridge rises again to the top of Lhotse (8516m/27,940ft) which is also seen from the very top of Kala Patthar. Unlike Everest, Lhotse – the world’s fourth highest mountain – is not usually climbed from the Col. The normal route (and that of the first climbers) leads directly across the Lhotse Face from the Western Cwm. See ‘Time in Dingboche’ for more information about ascents of Lhotse.
在你研究珠穆朗玛峰时，山峰直线距离只有 9.5 公里（6 英里）。在峰顶的右侧，你可以看到东南山脊，山脊顶端之下有两个显著特征可以看见。8748 米（28,701 英尺）的南峰可被识别出来，而在其上方是希拉里台阶，是通往真正峰顶的半途——对跟随滕森和希拉里脚步的人来说，这是最后一个主要障碍。东南山脊向下延伸到南坳，即营地 IV（7906 米/25,938 英尺）所在位置，这是大多数探险队使用的最高营地——包括 1979/80 年波兰探险中 Krzysztof Wielicki 和 Leszek Cichy 的第一次冬季攀登，以及如今众多商业探险。南坳的右侧，山脊再次上升到洛子峰顶（8516 米/27,940 英尺），在卡拉帕特尔顶端也能看到。与珠穆朗玛峰不同的是，洛子峰——世界第四高峰——通常不是从南坳攀登的。正常路线（以及首批攀登者的路线）直接从西部山谷越过洛子面。有关洛子峰攀登的更多信息，请参阅《在定日的时间》。

The Western Cwm is not seen from Kala Patthar as it is hidden behind Nuptse. What is clearly visible is the Khumbu Icefall – the deadly jungle of crevasses and seracs, and the only way into the Cwm. This is a very dangerous part of the route to Everest, not only for clients on commercial expeditions, but for the team of Sherpas who work to make the way passable, risking their lives as they repeat the route many times during the climbing season. Base Camp is usually sited below the Icefall, on the true right-hand side of the glacier’s sharp turn into the valley. If you are here in the climbing season (April, May) you will no doubt see hundreds of tents on the glacier, while down-valley Ama Dablam, the most spectacular of all the mountains, impresses once more, despite looking very different from its more easily recognised angle.
由于 Nuptse 的遮挡，从 Kala Patthar 看不到 Western Cwm。清晰可见的是昆布冰瀑——裂缝和冰塔的致命丛林，也是进入 Cwm 的唯一途径。这是通往珠峰路线中极其危险的一段，不仅对商业探险的客户来说如此，对于那些需要将路径打通并在攀登季节多次重走此路、冒着生命危险工作的夏尔巴团队来说尤其如此。大本营通常位于冰瀑下方，在冰川锐转入山谷的右侧。如果你在攀登季节（四月、五月）来到这里，毫无疑问会看到冰川上成百上千的帐篷，而下游的 Ama Dablam，尽管从不同的角度看起来很不一样，但这个最壮观的山峰仍然令人印象深刻。

From the summit, retrace your steps to Gorakshep
从山顶返回戈拉克谢普

SECTION 6B
第 6B 节

Hike to Everest Base Camp (5275m/17,306ft)
徒步前往珠峰大本营 (5275 米/17,306 英尺)

Start/FinishGorakshep (5170m/16,962ft)Distance6.5km (4 miles)Total ascent/descent265m (870ft)Time3hr 30min (1hr 45min each way)Max altitude5285m (17,339ft) (glacier moraine shortly before EBC)Min altitude5170m (16,962ft) (Gorakshep)Altitude gain105m (340ft) between Gorakshep and EBC
起点/终点 Gorakshep (5170 米/16,962 英尺) 距离 6.5 公里 (4 英里) 总上升/下降 265 米 (870 英尺) 时间 3 小时 30 分钟 (单程 1 小时 45 分钟) 最大学到达高度 5285 米 (17,339 英尺) (接近 EBC 的冰川终碛) 最小海拔 5170 米 (16,962 英尺) (Gorakshep) 在 Gorakshep 和 EBC 之间的海拔增益 105 米 (340 英尺)

In Nepal, Everest Base Camp (EBC) usually refers to the place on the Khumbu Glacier, near its true-right side, where the glacier makes its sharp turn into the valley, just below the Khumbu Icefall. This is where most expeditions site their base camp today. In the past, however, some expeditions located their main camp on different sites in the upper Khumbu – including Gorakshep. The name Everest Base Camp refers here to the most commonly used location, while there’s another EBC on the northern, Tibetan side of the mountain which is also frequently used.
在尼泊尔，珠穆朗玛峰大本营（EBC）通常指的是昆布冰川的一个地方，靠近其真实右侧，冰川在这里急转进入山谷，位于昆布冰瀑的下方。这是如今大多数探险队设置大本营的地方。然而，过去一些探险队曾将他们的主营地设在昆布上部的不同地点——包括戈拉克山口。珠穆朗玛峰大本营在此处指的是最常用的位置，而在山的北侧，西藏境内，也有另一个经常使用的 EBC。

In the main climbing season for Everest, which falls in late April and May, there will be more than a thousand people in the Nepalese base camp – the population of a small European town! Not surprisingly then, there is no single place for this EBC. It usually begins a few hundred metres below the confluence of the Khumbu and Khumbutse glaciers and stretches for more than a kilometre beyond, although commercial mountaineering companies often have their favourite spot. Trekkers usually reach the first point on the glacier, which is often marked with Buddhist prayer flags – but as the glacier constantly moves you might find neither sign of a camp nor a path to it, should you visit out of the climbing season.
在珠穆朗玛峰的主要攀登季节，即四月底和五月，将会有超过一千人聚集在尼泊尔大本营——相当于一个欧洲小镇的人口！因此，毫不奇怪，这个 EBC 没有单一的地点。它通常从昆布冰川和昆布策冰川交汇下方几百米处开始，并延伸超过一公里以上，尽管商业登山公司通常会有他们喜欢的地点。徒步旅行者通常会到达冰川上的第一个点，常常用佛教祈祷旗标记——但由于冰川不断移动，如果您在非攀登季节拜访，可能找不到营地的迹象或通往营地的路径。

This is a there-and-back outing, taking the same route each way.
这是一趟往返的远足，往返同一路线。

From Gorakshep, the route begins on the level basin of glacial sand that lies between the lodges and the slope of Kala Patthar. Here you walk NE towards the Khumbu Glacier which is to your right, at first hidden behind moraine. The path is clear and there’s a sign showing the direction to EBC. Pass to the left of a shallow lake in the upper part of the flat valley, and continue between mounds of old lateral moraine. Everest is not seen from here as it is hidden behind the Nuptse ridge. About 10–15min from Gorakshep the trek along the lateral moraine begins with the Khumbu Glacier seen on your right. The very top of Everest soon appears, and a little further on, the South Summit also. The path climbs to the moraine ridge, and further on it goes along the ridge, cuts along the slope or makes its way between old moraines formed at different times. Some 1hr 15min–1hr 30min from Gorakshep the path takes you down to the glacier. Be especially careful here, and on the glacier itself where debris covering the ice consists of unstable rocks which sometimes move beneath you. Note also that movement of the glacier can alter the route with the result that some paths – where they exist – might possibly lead into dangerous places.
从 Gorakshep 开始，路线位于冰川沙的水平盆地上，这个位于旅馆和 Kala Patthar 的斜坡之间。在这里，你向东北方向行走，朝向右侧的 Khumbu 冰川，起初它被冰砾石堆隐藏。小路很清晰，还有指向 EBC 的标志。在平坦山谷的上部部分，经过一个浅湖的左侧，并在旧侧边冰砾石之间继续行走。从这里看不到珠穆朗玛峰，因为它被努子峰山脊遮住了。距离 Gorakshep 大约 10 到 15 分钟时，沿着侧边冰砾石的跋涉开始，右侧可以看到 Khumbu 冰川。很快，珠穆朗玛峰的顶部出现了，稍远一点，南峰也清晰可见。小路爬上冰砾石的山脊，继续沿着山脊走，切过坡地或在不同时间形成的旧冰砾石之间行进。大约 1 小时 15 分钟到 1 小时 30 分钟从 Gorakshep 出发，小路带你下到冰川。在这里特别小心，在冰川上，覆盖着冰的碎石由不稳定的岩石组成，有时它们会在你脚下移动。 还要注意，冰川的移动可能会改变路线，导致某些路径——如果存在的话——可能会通向危险的地方。

Shortly after stepping on the glacier you will reach the place where the first tents are usually pitched during the climbing season. Even in the autumn when there are few, if any, climbers here, prayer flags mark this spot. Most trekkers return from this point, retracing their footprints back to Gorakshepand Lobuche.
在踏上冰川不久后，你会到达通常在攀登季节搭建第一个帐篷的地方。即使在秋天这里几乎没有登山者，还是有经幡标记这个地点。大多数徒步旅行者从这里返回，沿着自己的足迹回到 Gorakshep 和 Lobuche。

Everest Base Camp in spring 2015, a few days before the earthquake
2015 年春天的珠穆朗玛峰大本营，地震前几天

Ways out from Gorakshep
从 Gorakshep 出发的路线

To Namche via Pangboche
经由 Pangboche 到 Namche

For those with limited time, a return to Namche via Pangboche is the usual choice. From Gorakshepthe way to Lobucheand then to Dughlaneeds to be repeated. Beyond Dughla there is no need to follow the higher path to Dingboche – take the easier and shorter way to Phericheinstead (refer to Section 4 for more details). There are a number of lodges at Pheriche as well as the HRA aid-post (www.himalayanrescue.org). If you have slept in Gorakshep and been to EBC early in the morning, it is possible to reach Pheriche on the same day.
对于时间有限的人来说，经由 Pangboche 返回 Namche 是通常的选择。从 Gorakshep 到 Lobuche 然后到 Dughla 的路需要重复。在 Dughla 之后，无需走更高的去 Dingboche 的路——可以选择更容易更短的到 Pheriche 的路（详细信息请参见第 4 节）。Pheriche 有许多旅馆以及 HRA 救援站（www.himalayanrescue.org）。如果您在 Gorakshep 过夜并且清晨到过 EBC，是可以在同一天到达 Pheriche 的。

Beyond Pheriche, continue on the left bank of the Lobuche river for some 700 metres then cross the bridge (4250m/13,944ft) and climb gradually to a small pass (Pheriche Pass; 4300m/14,108ft). A short descent brings you to the junction with the trail from Dingboche. Pangbocheis the usual place for an overnight stop for those who start in Lobuche, and Namchecan be reached on the following day using either of the optional variants (see Sections 2A, 2B, 1A and 1B).
在 Pheriche 之后，沿着 Lobuche 河的左岸走大约 700 米，然后过桥（4250 米/13,944 英尺），并逐渐攀登到一个小垭口（Pheriche 垭口；4300 米/14,108 英尺）。短暂下降将带你到与 Dingboche 小径的交汇处。Pangboche 通常是从 Lobuche 出发的人的过夜停留地，可以在第二天通过任何一个选择路线到达 Namche（见第 2A、2B、1A 和 1B 节）。

To Chukhung via the Kongma La
通过 Kongma La 到 Chukhung

The Kongma La links the upper Khumbu Valley with the upper part of the Imja Khola valley and is part of the Three Passes Trek. It is described (in the ‘reverse’ direction – from Chukhung to Lobuche) in the Trek 5 chapter. However, it is possible to cross this pass in the opposite direction, starting in the Khumbu Valley. It would take one long day to reach Chukhung from Lobuche over the Kongma pass (see Trek 5 for more details); therefore from Gorakshepit is best to walk first to Lobucheand spend the night there. Once in Chukhungyou could reach Pangbochein one day, from where Namcheis accessible as above.
Kongma La 将库布谷上部与因加科拉山谷上部连接在一起，是三垭口徒步路线的一部分。在徒步旅行第 5 章中描述了 Kongma La（以“反向”方向 - 从 Chukhung 到 Lobuche）。然而，也可以从相反的方向穿越这个垭口，从库布谷开始。通过 Kongma 垭口从 Lobuche 到达 Chukhung 需要一天时间（有关详细信息，请参阅徒步旅行第 5 章）；因此，最好先步行到 Lobuche 并在那里过夜。在 Chukhung 后，你可以在一天内到达 Pangboche，从那里可以按上述方式到达南池。

To Gokyo
去 Gokyo

There are two ways to reach Gokyo from Gorakshep. The longer but easier route requires a return to Pangboche via Phericheas described above. From Pangbochefollow the high trail to Phortse(see Trek 3, Section 2B) and continue to Phortse Thangawhere you can join the Namche–Gokyoroute (see Trek 4 for details). The other way is to cross the Cho La– the second of the passes on the Three Passes Trek. Refer to Trek 5 for this option.TREK 4
从戈拉克谢普到戈克约有两条途径。较长但更简单的路线是如上所述，经由佩里切返回班伯切。从班伯切沿着高地小径到 Phortse（参见徒步旅行 3，部分 2B），继续前往 Phortse Thanga，在那里你可以加入 Namche–Gokyo 路线（详情参见徒步旅行 4）。另一条路是穿越 Cho La——三个关口徒步旅行中的第二个关口。有关此选项，请参阅徒步旅行 5。TREK 4

Mount Everest as seen from Gokyo Ri late on an autumn afternoon
秋季下午晚些时候从 Gokyo Ri 看到的珠穆朗玛峰

TREK 4

Namche Bazaar to Gokyo
纳姆切集市到戈克尤

StartNamche Bazaar (3410m/11,188ft)FinishGokyo (4760m/15,617ft)Distance24.5km (15 miles)Total ascent2175m (7140ft)Total descent825m (2710ft)Time4 daysMax altitude4760m (15,617ft) (Gokyo)Min altitude3410m (11,188ft) (Namche Bazaar)Altitude gain1350m (4430ft)
起点 Namche Bazaar (3410 米/11,188 英尺)终点 Gokyo (4760 米/15,617 英尺)距离 24.5 公里 (15 英里)总上升 2175 米 (7140 英尺)总下降 825 米 (2710 英尺)时间 4 天最大海拔 4760 米 (15,617 英尺) (Gokyo)最小海拔 3410 米 (11,188 英尺) (Namche Bazaar)海拔增量 1350 米 (4430 英尺)

The upper part of the Dudh Koshi, where Gokyo is situated, is without doubt one of the finest locations in the Khumbu. The picturesque lakes; the extraordinary Ngozumpa Glacier – the longest in Nepal; Cho Oyu – the sixth highest mountain on Earth; the surrounding peaks which enclose the valley; and Gokyo Ri (5357m/17,575ft) whose views are no less spectacular than those from Kala Patthar… all these things contribute to Gokyo’s immense appeal.
杜库希的上游地区，Gokyo 所在的地方，毫无疑问是昆布最好的地点之一。风景如画的湖泊；尼泊尔最长的 Ngozumpa 冰川；地球第六高峰 Cho Oyu；环绕山谷的群峰；以及 Gokyo Ri（5357 米/17,575 英尺），其视野与 Kala Patthar 一样壮观……所有这些都为 Gokyo 带来了巨大的吸引力。

A trip to Gokyo might be made as a separate trek tackled either from Lukla or from Jiri. If this is your choice, consider walking to Pangboche first and visiting Ama Dablam Base Camp (see Trek 3 for details). From Pangboche take the route on the right-hand side of the Imja Khola to Phortse and join Trek 4 at Phortse Thanga. This variant would significantly aid the acclimatisation process as well as adding some outstanding viewpoints to your route.
前往 Gokyo 的旅行可以作为从 Lukla 或 Jiri 出发的单独徒步旅行。如果这是你的选择，考虑先步行到 Pangboche 并参观 Ama Dablam 大本营（详情见徒步路线 3）。从 Pangboche 出发，沿 Imja Khola 右侧的路线到达 Phortse，并在 Phortse Thanga 加入徒步路线 4。这个变种将显著帮助适应过程，并为你的路线增加一些杰出的观景点。

Some trekkers visit Gokyo on their return from EBC, reaching it either via Phortse Thanga or the Cho La (see Trek 5).
一些徒步旅行者在从 EBC 返回时访问 Gokyo，可以通过 Phortse Thanga 或 Cho La 到达那里（见徒步路线 5）。

In order to return from Gokyo by hiking back down-valley, there is a choice of two trails running either side of the valley; the trail on the true right side of the Dudh Koshi is described here. The other one, which the author has not followed, is less popular or even rarely walked, and has fewer accommodation options, although it is said to give stunning views and a rare sense of isolation. An alternative trek from Gokyo would be to head east towards the Cho La, which is a gateway to the upper part of the Khumbu Valley, Kala Patthar and EBC. Taking the opposite direction, to the west, you would climb the Renjo La – third on the route of the Three Passes Trek (Trek 5) and a magnificent place for views of Everest, Lhotse, Makalu and many other high peaks. Neither of the two passes is easy, but both are definitely worth the effort.
为了从 Gokyo 徒步返回山谷，可以选择山谷两侧的两条小径；这里描述的是 Dudh Koshi 的右侧小径。另一条小径，作者尚未走过，人迹罕至，住宿选择也较少，但据说可以看到壮丽的景色和难得的隔离感。从 Gokyo 的另一种徒步方式是向东走向 Cho La，这是通往 Khumbu Valley 上部、Kala Patthar 和 EBC 的门户。相反方向，向西，可以攀登 Renjo La——这是三高山道徒步路线（徒步 5）中的第三个通道，是观赏珠穆朗玛峰、洛子峰、马卡鲁峰及其他许多高峰的绝佳之地。这两个通道都不容易，但绝对值得付出努力。

The distance between Namche and Gokyo is not great, but the altitude gain is significant. Unacclimatised trekkers are advised to carefully consider altitude when planning stages of their trek on this route. Check the ‘Altitude sickness’ section of this book’s introduction. Although some trekkers choose Dhole (4050m/13,287ft) as their first overnight stop after leaving Namche, this should be considered risky and is strongly discouraged. Choose Phortse Thanga (3635m/11,926ft) for an intermediate stop, or spend a night in Khumjung at 3765m (12,352ft). Likewise, the Dhole–Gokyo section should be divided and walked in two days with an overnight in Machhermo.
南切和戈克约之间的距离不大，但海拔上升很显著。未适应高原的徒步旅行者在计划这条路线的徒步阶段时，建议仔细考虑海拔。查看本书引言中的“高原反应”部分。尽管有些徒步者选择朵乐（4050m/13,287ft）作为离开南切后的第一个过夜点，但这应该被视为有风险并强烈不推荐。可以选择福特斯唐加（3635m/11,926ft）作为中间停留，或在库姆琼宿夜，海拔 3765m（12,352ft）。同样，朵乐至戈克约路段应拆分为两天完成，并在马赫尔莫过夜。

The first section of the route is in common with Trek 3.
路线的第一部分与 Trek 3 相同。

SECTION 1A
第 1A 节

Namche to Sanasa via Tenzing Norgay Chorten and Khyangjuma
Namche 到 Sanasa 经由 Tenzing Norgay Chorten 和 Khyangjuma

StartNamche Bazaar (3410m/11,188ft)FinishTrail junction before Sanasa (3610m/11,844ft)Distance5km (3 miles)Total ascent300m (980ft)Total descent100m (330ft)Time2hr–2hr 15min (1hr 30min–1hr 45min for the return)Max altitude3625m (11,893ft) (point before Khyangjuma)Min altitude3410m (11,188ft) (Namche)Altitude gain200m (660ft)
起点纳姆切集市 (3410 米/11,188 英尺)终点 Sanasa 之前的小路交叉口 (3610 米/11,844 英尺)距离 5 公里 (3 英里)总上升 300 米 (980 英尺)总下降 100 米 (330 英尺)时间 2 小时–2 小时 15 分钟 (返回 1 小时 30 分钟–1 小时 45 分钟)最高海拔 3625 米 (11,893 英尺) (Khyangjuma 前一点)最低海拔 3410 米 (11,188 英尺) (纳姆切)海拔增益 200 米 (660 英尺)

See Trek 3, Section 1A for a detailed description of the route for this section.
查看 Trek 3，第 1A 节，以获取该部分路线的详细说明。

SECTION 1B
第 1B 节

Namche to Sanasa via Khumjung
Namche 到 Sanasa 经由 Khumjung

StartNamche Bazaar (3410m/11,188ft)FinishTrail junction before Sanasa (3610m/11,844ft)Distance5km (3 miles)Total ascent445m (1460ft)Total descent245m (800ft)Time3hr–3hr 30min (3hr for the return)Max altitude3845m (12,615ft) (pass between Syangboche and Khumjung)Min altitude3410m (11,188ft) (Namche)Altitude gain200m (660ft)
起点 Namche Bazaar (3410 米/11,188 英尺)终点 Sanasa 前的路线交叉口 (3610 米/11,844 英尺)距离 5 公里 (3 英里)总上升 445 米 (1460 英尺)总下降 245 米 (800 英尺)时间 3 小时–3 小时 30 分 (返回为 3 小时)最大海拔 3845 米 (12,615 英尺) (经过 Syangboche 和 Khumjung 之间)最低海拔 3410 米 (11,188 英尺) (Namche)海拔增益 200 米 (660 英尺)

This route is the same as described for Trek 3, Section 1B as far as the last buildings of Khumjung. At the last fork in Khumjung, take the left branch heading towards Mong La and Phortse.
这条路线与徒步旅行 3 中第 1B 节描述的相同，直到库姆琼的最后一栋建筑。在库姆琼的最后一个岔路口，走左边的分支，前往 Mong La 和 Phortse。

SECTION 2
第 2 节

Sanasa to Phortse Thanga
Sanasa 到 Phortse Thanga

StartTrail junction before Sanasa (3610m/11,844ft)FinishPhortse Thanga (3635m/11,926ft)Distance4km (2½ miles)Total ascent390m (1280ft)Total descent365m (1200ft)Time2hr 15min (2hr for the return)Max altitude3965m (13,008ft) (Mong La)Min altitude3610m (11,844ft) (trail junction before Sanasa)Altitude gain25m (80ft)
起点三岔路口在萨那萨之前 (3610 米/11,844 英尺) 终点 Phortse Thanga (3635 米/11,926 英尺) 距离 4 千米 (2½ 英里) 总上升 390 米 (1280 英尺) 总下降 365 米 (1200 英尺) 时间 2 小时 15 分钟 (返回 2 小时) 最大海拔 3965 米 (13,008 英尺) (Mong La) 最小海拔 3610 米 (11,844 英尺) (萨那萨之前的三岔路口) 海拔增益 25 米 (80 英尺)

From Sanasa the route takes a long but generally steady line up to the ridge-top settlement of Mong La before embarking on the steep descent to Phortse Thanga. If you started the day in Namche, for the safest acclimatisation schema you should stay overnight in Phortse Thanga; be careful if you stay in Mong La as it is high – drink plenty of water and observe your body.
从 Sanasa 开始，这条路线需要花很长时间，但通常稳定地上升到 Mong La 的岭顶定居点，然后开始陡降至 Phortse Thanga。如果你是在 Namche 开始一天的行程，为了最安全的适应方案，你应该在 Phortse Thanga 过夜；如果你留在 Mong La，要小心因为那里海拔高——多喝水并观察你的身体状况。

At the trail junction before Sanasa, take the left branch slanting slightly left ahead and signed ‘Gokyo/Phortse’. This takes you through forest above the buildings of Sanasa, and then more steeply to reach a crossing path at 3655m (11,991ft). This is the trail from Khumjung. Bear right and before long you climb a steep flight of steps before easing to make a long rising traverse of open hillside. Although the buildings on the Mong La appear a long way off, the distance is easily dealt with if you follow the advice of walking at a slow, steady pace. Keep alert for sightings of Himalayan tahr – a relative of the wild goat – grazing the slopes here.
在 Sanasa 之前的路径交汇处，走向左前方稍微倾斜的分支，并标有“Gokyo/Phortse”。这条路带你穿过 Sanasa 建筑上方的森林，然后更陡峭地到达 3655 米（11,991 英尺）处的交叉路径。这是来自 Khumjung 的路径。靠右行，很快你将攀爬陡峭的台阶，然后缓和下来，进行一个长距离上升的开放山坡横穿。尽管在 Mong La 的建筑物看起来距离很远，按照缓慢、稳定的步伐行走，这段距离是容易应对的。保持警觉，注意观察在这里斜坡上放牧的喜马拉雅塔尔羊（一种山羊的近亲）。

To your right, on the other side of the river, Tengboche Monastery can be seen on the wooded ridge. The Dudh Koshi has its second major fork at the foot of that ridge. To the left as you look up-valley (NNW), the Dudh Koshi river emerges from its source in the Ngozumpa Glacier, which flows from Cho Oyu. Gokyo is in the upper part of that valley. The river flowing from the direction of Everest, Lhotse and Nuptse is the Imja Khola, and the attractively located village seen on a terrace above the confluence of the two rivers is Phortse. Taboche Peak rises above it, and as you approach Mong La, a new peak (Kangtega; 6782m/22,251ft) comes into view on your right, next to Thamserku.
在你的右侧，在河的另一边，Tengboche 修道院可以在树木繁茂的山脊上看到。Dudh Koshi 在那个山脊脚下有它的第二个主要分流。向上游（NNW）左侧看，Dudh Koshi 河从来源 Ngozumpa 冰川出现，冰川流自 Cho Oyu。Gokyo 位于那个山谷的上部。从珠穆朗玛峰、Lhotse 和 Nuptse 方向流来的河流是 Imja Khola，而在两条河流交汇处上方的台地上可以看到一个位置优美的村庄，那就是 Phortse。Taboche Peak 耸立于其上，当你接近 Mong La 时，一个新的山峰（Kangtega；6782 米/22,251 英尺）在你的右侧，Thamserku 旁边映入眼帘。

Mong La enjoys scenic views. Kangtega is slightly left of the chorten, and Thamserku to the right
孟拉享受风景如画的视野。Kangtega 略偏左的佛塔，而 Thamserku 在右边。

The end of this steady climb is reached about 1hr 15min–1hr 45min from the junction near Sanasa, after ascending 355m (1165ft) in 2.2km (1¼ miles). Mong La(also called Mongla or sometimes Mong; 3965m/13,008ft) is a small settlement on a steep ridge, with several restaurants and lodges, some of which were rebuilt following earthquake damage. If you have not acclimatised on an earlier trek, you should either stay for the night here, or in Phortse Thanga; pushing on to Dhole in one day from Namche might be risky.
从 Sanasa 附近的交汇处出发，大约 1 小时 15 分钟至 1 小时 45 分钟后抵达这段稳定攀升的终点，期间在 2.2 公里（1¼英里）内上升 355 米（1165 英尺）。Mong La（也叫 Mongla 或有时称为 Mong；3965 米/13008 英尺）是一个坐落在陡峭山脊上的小聚落，有几家餐馆和旅馆，其中一些是在地震损坏后重建的。如果您在之前的徒步旅行中没有适应高海拔，您应该在这里或在 Phortse Thanga 过夜；从 Namche 一天赶到 Dhole 可能有风险。

A steep descent of 30–45min, mostly among trees, brings you to the hospitable lodge at Phortse Thanga(3635m/11,926ft).
大约 30–45 分钟的陡降，大部分在树林中，会带你到达 Phortse Thanga（3635 米/11,926 英尺）热情好客的小屋。

SECTION 3
第 3 节

Phortse Thanga to Machhermo
Phortse Thanga 到 Machhermo

StartPhortse Thanga (3635m/11,926ft)FinishMachhermo (4390m/14,403ft)Distance9km (5½ miles)Total ascent1000m (3280ft)Total descent245m (800ft)Time2 days (3hr for the return)Max altitude4447m (14,590ft) (ridge before Machhermo)Min altitude3635m (11,926ft) (Phortse Thanga)Altitude gain755m (2480ft)
起点 Phortse Thanga（3635 米/11,926 英尺）终点 Machhermo（4390 米/14,403 英尺）距离 9 公里（5½英里）总上升高度 1000 米（3280 英尺）总下降高度 245 米（800 英尺）时间 2 天（返回需 3 小时）最高海拔 4447 米（14,590 英尺）（Machhermo 前的山脊）最低海拔 3635 米（11,926 英尺）（Phortse Thanga）海拔上升 755 米（2480 英尺）

Although the section described here is short, it should be divided for acclimatisation reasons. Dhole (4050m/13,287ft) is the usual choice for the overnight stop, leaving a slow 3hr walk to Machhermo where another overnight stop is vital for proper acclimatisation before reaching Gokyo. There is neither lodge nor teahouse between Phortse Thanga and Dhole.
尽管这里描述的路段很短，但为了适应环境，应将其分开。通常，Dhole (4050 米/13,287 英尺) 是过夜停留的选择，留下缓慢的 3 小时步行到 Machhermo，在到达 Gokyo 之前在那里另一个夜间停留对于适应环境至关重要。在 Phortse Thanga 和 Dhole 之间既没有旅馆也没有茶馆。

As noted above, an alternative route, which has not been tested by the author, runs along the true left side of the Dudh Koshi from Phortse. It is less popular and has fewer accommodation options than the one described here; if you choose to walk it, ask the locals about its condition. The two routes rejoin just beyond Machhermo.
如上所述，一条替代路线，作者尚未测试，从 Phortse 沿 Dudh Koshi 的真正左侧运行。这条路不如这里描述的路线受欢迎，住宿选择也较少；如果你选择走这条路，询问当地人关于其状况。这两条路线在刚过 Machhermo 处重新汇合。

It will take about 2hr to reach Dhole from Phortse Thanga, over a distance of 3.4km (2 miles), with 415m (1362ft) of altitude gained and a total ascent/descent of 485m/70m (1591ft/230ft).The trail forks at the Phortse ThangaGuest House. One branch continues downhill towards two or three more lodges and a bridge over the Dudh Koshi which carries the route to Phortse village on the other side of the valley. Take the other path which begins at the back of Phortse Thanga Guest House, and follow a pleasant rising traverse high above the river in woodland where rhododendron, fir and birch dominate. The path undulates in places, and there are short steeper parts where a series of stone slab steps need to be negotiated.
从 Phortse Thanga 到 Dhole 大约需要 2 小时，距离为 3.4 公里（2 英里），海拔增加 415 米（1362 英尺），总上升/下降为 485 米/70 米（1591 英尺/230 英尺）。小路在 Phortse Thanga Guest House 分叉。一个分支继续下坡，通向两三个旅馆和 Dudh Koshi 上的一座桥，该桥将路线带到山谷另一侧的 Phortse 村。走另一个从 Phortse Thanga Guest House 后面开始的小路，沿着在杜鹃花、冷杉和桦树占主导地位的林地中高于河流的宜人上升横穿小路。小路在某些地方起伏不平，有些较陡的部分需要走过一系列石板台阶。

Another variant of the route to the bridge leading to Phortse turns off to the right after 10min, and several minutes after that you will pass a house. Shortly after, Cho Oyu comes into view for the first time, while Thamserku and Kangtega dominate vistas behind. To the left of these, a sharp pyramid-like mountain appears; this is Malanphulan (6571m/21,558ft), which has only been climbed once.
通往通往 Phortse 的另一条路线在 10 分钟后向右转，几分钟后你会经过一座房子。不久之后，卓奥友峰（Cho Oyu）首次映入眼帘，而塔姆瑟库峰（Thamserku）和康特加峰（Kangtega）则在后方占据主要视野。在这些山峰的左侧，一座尖锐的金字塔状山峰出现；这就是 Malanphulan（6571 米/21,558 英尺），它只被攀登过一次。

A tiny, picturesque waterfall is passed. There are two or three similar waterfalls further on with the stream below the last one, which you cross by a small bridge. A short climb is followed by crossing an open area above the woodland, and then a side valley is reached in which Dholeis located. There’s a good choice of lodges here.
经过一个小而如画的瀑布。再往前走有两个或三个相似的瀑布，最后一个瀑布下方有小溪，你需要通过一座小桥。爬上一小段后，会经过树林上的一个开阔地带，然后到达一个侧山谷，那里有 Dhole。有很多不错的旅馆可供选择。

Dhole provides a useful acclimatisation stopover
Dhole 提供了一个有用的适应中途停留

Machhermo is 5.6km (3½ miles) from Dhole, with 340m (1120ft) of altitude gain, and a total ascent/descent of 515m/175m (1690ft/574ft).Cross the stream in Dhole, climb the ridge on its other side and continue high above the Dudh Koshi. You are above the treeline now with fantastic views all around, and plenty of time to enjoy them on this short stage.
Machhermo 距离 Dhole 5.6 公里（3½英里），海拔上升 340 米（1120 英尺），总爬升/下降高度为 515 米/175 米（1690 英尺/574 英尺）。在 Dhole 过溪流，攀登另一侧的山脊，然后继续沿 Dudh Koshi 高处前行。你现在已在树线以上，可以欣赏到四周的美景，并有充足的时间在这一短暂的路段中享受它们。

Most of the lodge-keepers in the valleyare from Khumjung, but many of them stay here and keep their lodges open all year round, as they look after their yaks which pasture nearby. The animals are used for transportation and you will see a lot of them in the valley.
山谷中的大多数旅馆经营者都来自库姆尊，但他们中的许多人全年都在这里待着并保持旅馆开放，因为他们照看附近放牧的牦牛。这些动物被用于运输，您将在山谷中看到很多牦牛。

Mountain View Top Hill Lodge at Lhafarma(4270m/14,009ft) is reached an hour beyond Dhole; it is a good excuse for a little rest and a cup of tea. Luza(4340m/14,239ft), with a few houses and two or three lodges, is situated in a side valley and is reached in another hour (2.4km/1½ miles) on a scenic traverse.
在 Dhole 再走一个小时，就可以到达 Lhafarma 的 Mountain View Top Hill Lodge（4270 米/14009 英尺）；这是一个小休息和喝杯茶的好借口。Luza（4340 米/14239 英尺），有几户人家和两三家旅馆，位于一个侧谷，再走一个小时（2.4 公里/1½英里）的风景区横穿可以到达。

A mani-cairn passed shortly before arriving at Machhermo. Cho Oyu is the main mountain in this view
到达马赫尔莫之前不久经过了一个石堆。在这个视野中，卓奥友峰是主要的山。

After a short climb to the ridge on the other side of Luza’s side valley the gradually ascending traverse continues. A mani-wall is reached on another sloping ridge, and then a short descent brings you to the bottom of the Machherma Khola side valley, where Machhermois located at 4390m (14,403ft), about 30–45min and 1.5km from Luza. There are several lodges here as well as a Porters’ Shelter and Rescue Post established by Community Action Nepal (CAN) and the International Porter Protection Group (IPPG). Talks about altitude sickness and the rescue service are given daily.
在经过短暂的攀爬到卢扎侧谷另一边的山脊后，逐渐上升的横切继续。到达另一个倾斜山脊上的玛尼墙，然后短暂下降到 Machherma Khola 侧谷的底部，Machhermo 位于海拔 4390 米（14,403 英尺），距离卢扎约 30-45 分钟和 1.5 公里。这里有多家旅馆以及由 Community Action Nepal (CAN)和 International Porter Protection Group (IPPG)建立的搬运工庇护所和救援站。每天都有关于高原反应和救援服务的讲座。

In Machhermo, as in many places in the Khumbu, some of the lodges are run by Sherpas who work or used to work as high altitude climbing guides. Don’t be surprised to find that your host has summited Everest several times – and don’t miss the opportunity to learn his story!
在马切尔莫和坤布的许多地方一样，一些旅馆是由曾担任或曾担任高海拔攀登向导的夏尔巴人经营的。不要惊讶于你的主人曾多次登顶珠穆朗玛峰——也不要错过了解他的故事的机会！

Finishing this stage early, you might want to have a bit more exercise – which is fine as long as you are well and have no symptoms of AMS. However, if you have a headache or feel tired, it is better to have a good rest and hydrate properly. Kyajo Ri (6186m/20,295ft) is the beautiful rocky mountain up the Machherma Khola valley (on the left as you look up the Machherma Khola valley). A hike towards its base camp will yield fantastic afternoon views. If you want to try it, ask the locals for details. Return to Machhermo for the night.
如果提前完成这个阶段，你可能想多做一些运动——只要你身体健康并且没有高山病的症状就可以。然而，如果你有头痛或感到疲惫，最好充分休息并做好补水。Kyajo Ri（6186 米/20,295 英尺）是 Machherma Khola 山谷上方（当你向上看 Machherma Khola 山谷时是在左边）美丽的岩山。徒步到它的基地营地会带来绝妙的下午视野。如果你想尝试，请向当地人询问详情。返回 Machhermo 过夜。

SECTION 4
第 4 节

Machhermo to Gokyo
Machhermo 到 Gokyo

StartMachhermo (4390m/14,403ft)FinishGokyo (4760m/15,617ft)Distance7km (4¼ miles)Total ascent485m (1590ft)Total descent115m (380ft)Time3hr–3hr 30min (2hr 30min for the return)Max altitude4760m (15,617ft) (Gokyo)Min altitude4390m (14,400ft) (Machhermo)Altitude gain370m (1210ft)
起点 Machhermo（4390 米/14,403 英尺）终点 Gokyo（4760 米/15,617 英尺）距离 7 公里（4¼英里）总上升 485 米（1590 英尺）总下降 115 米（380 英尺）时间 3 小时–3 小时 30 分钟（返回 2 小时 30 分钟）最高海拔 4760 米（15,617 英尺）（Gokyo）最低海拔 4390 米（14,400 英尺）（Machhermo）海拔增益 370 米（1210 英尺）

This section consists of two parts. First, the high traverse of the Dudh Koshi is continued with some ups and downs. Once the Ngozumpa Glacier’s terminal moraine is reached, the floor of the valley that runs parallel to the glacier’s lateral moraine is followed as far as Gokyo.
这一部分由两部分组成。首先，多德科西的高位行进在一些起伏中继续进行。一旦抵达 Ngozumpa 冰川的末端冰碛，就沿着冰川侧碛平行的山谷地面行走，直至 Gokyo。

Leaving Machhermo, the ridge on the other side of the Machherma Khola needs to be climbed. Once you reach the top the way ahead can be clearly seen. The large hill in the centre of the main valley in front of you is the terminal moraine of the Ngozumpa Glacier. The glacier is just behind it; it is not as wide as the valley, so on each side there is a long hill – the glacier’s lateral moraine. As you can see, there is a valley (known as an ablation valley) on each side of the glacier, formed between the mountain slope and the moraine. It is in the valley on the true right (western) side of the glacier – on your left-hand side as you look up-valley – that Gokyo and a series of lakes are located.
离开 Machhermo 后，需要攀爬 Machherma Khola 另一侧的山脊。一旦到达顶部，前方的道路就可以清晰地看到。在你面前主谷中心的大山是 Ngozumpa 冰川的终碛垄。冰川就在它后面，它没有山谷那么宽，所以在每一侧都有一条长长的山丘——冰川的侧碛垄。如你所见，在冰川的每一侧都有一个山谷（称为消融谷），形成于山坡和冰碛垄之间。Gokyo 和一系列湖泊位于冰川真正右侧（西侧）的山谷中——当你向上望时在你的左手边。

Descend, following the obvious traverse, and soon reach a few buildings (including lodges) at Phangga(4460m/14,632ft). The path forks just before the settlement to reform beyond it at another good viewpoint. A short, steep descent leads to a low traverse near the river. Now you are in the narrow ablation valley between the moraine and the mountain slope. The pathway to the right, which crosses a bridge, is the alternative way to Phortse on the true left side of the Dudh Koshi. One of the variants of the route to Dragnag – the settlement on the way to the Cho La – also starts here.
沿着明显的横越路线下降，并很快到达 Phangga（4460 米/14,632 英尺）的一些建筑物（包括小屋）。小路在定居点前分叉，然后在另一个良好的观景点处重新汇合。一个短而陡峭的下降通向靠近河流的低横越区域。现在你位于冰碛和山坡之间的狭窄消融谷。右边的小路，穿过一座桥，是前往 Dudh Koshi 真实左侧的 Phortse 的另一条路径。通往 Cho La 路上的定居点 Dragnag 的变种之一也从这里开始。

For Gokyo continue straight ahead. Soon, the valley becomes narrow and the path cuts across a steep slope. It is precipitous in places and there’s a slight danger of falling rocks, so watch for animals above you which can dislodge stones, and do not stop before crossing a bridgeto gain a wider section of the valley.
继续直行前往 Gokyo。很快，山谷变得狭窄，小路横切陡坡。有些地方非常陡峭，并且有落石的轻微危险，因此请注意上方可能会松动石头的动物，并且在过桥以到达山谷的较宽部分之前不要停下。

About 250 metres (820ft) beyond the bridge you reach the first lake. This is the Longponga Tshoat 4710m (15,453ft).
大约 250 米（820 英尺）过了桥后，你会到达第一个湖泊。这是海拔 4710 米（15,453 英尺）的 Longponga Tsho。

Ruddy shelduck(Brahminy duck) are commonly seen on this and the following lakes. Higher up, on the slopes around Gokyo and often in the settlement itself, you might also see the Tibetan snowcock; a large bird closely related to the chicken, pheasant and partridge. It flies unwillingly when alarmed, and quickly glides down again.
斑头雁（Brahminy duck）常见于此湖及下列湖泊。在更高处，靠近 Gokyo 的坡地及定居点本身，你可能还会看到藏雪鸡；这是一种与鸡、雉鸡和鹧鸪密切相关的大鸟。受到惊扰时不愿飞行，迅速滑翔下来。

The way is now easier as you follow the bed of the valley. However, walking is never easy at this altitude. Soon a mountain appears in front of you with a clear path leading to its top. This is Gokyo Ri (5357m/17,575ft; see ‘Time in Gokyo’, below), and Gokyo lies at its feet. A second, larger lake – Taujung Tsho(4728m/15,512ft) – is about 1km beyond the first one, while a third lake is found in another 1.5km. Commonly known as Gokyo Tsho, its proper name is Dudh Pokhari(4734m/15,531ft), and if you look to the left from its shore you may see the Renjo La – one of the ways out of Gokyo – in a lower section of the ridge crest high above you. Part of the way to this pass can be clearly seen. (For a description of the crossing of the Renjo La, see Trek 5.)
现在沿着山谷的底部行进，路变得更容易。然而，在这个高度行走从来都不容易。很快，一座山出现在你面前，有一条明显的小路通向山顶。这是 Gokyo Ri（5357 米/17575 英尺；参见下面的“Gokyo 的时间”），而 Gokyo 则坐落在山脚下。第二个较大的湖泊—Taujung Tsho（4728 米/15512 英尺）—距离第一个湖泊约 1 公里，而第三个湖泊则在另一个 1.5 公里处被发现。通常称为 Gokyo Tsho，准确的名称是 Dudh Pokhari（4734 米/15531 英尺），如果你从湖边向左望去，你可能会看到 Renjo La—Gokyo 的出路之一—在你上方高高的山脊处的较低部分。通往这个山口的部分路径可以清楚地看到。（有关穿越 Renjo La 的描述，请参见徒步旅行 5。）

Gokyo’s lodges are just ahead. The settlement has grown in recent years and there’s a wide choice of accommodation now. As in Machhermo, there is a Porters’ Shelter and Rescue Post established and run by CAN and IPPG, who often have a doctor on site, so if you have medical problems, ask for help. If you feel well, you are recommended to spend at least two nights here.
Gokyo 的小屋就在前方。近年来这个定居点有所发展，现在有许多住宿选择。与 Machhermo 一样，由 CAN 和 IPPG 建立并运行一个搬运工庇护所和救援站，通常有医生在现场，所以如果您有医疗问题，请寻求帮助。如果您感觉良好，建议您在这里至少呆两个晚上。

Gokyo is a good base for spectacular side trips
Gokyo 是一个适合壮观短途旅行的好基地

TIME IN GOKYO
戈克约时间

There are so many things to do with your time in Gokyo. A short walk onto the ridge of the Ngozumpa’s lateral moraine should not be missed. You could do this almost anywhere, but it is probably easiest to follow a short section of the path to Dragnag which starts at the IPPG Porters’ Shelter. The ascent of Gokyo Ri, which enjoys views every bit as spectacular as those from Kala Patthar, is a must, as it is without question one of the best Himalayan viewpoints accessible to trekkers. Dawn is magnificent, and sunsets are awesome if you are lucky to have a clear evening. Finally, a walk up-valley along the glacier to see the upper lakes, where you could spend just a few hours or a full day, is definitely worthwhile. And if you are still flexible in regard to the way back to Namche, do consider the Renjo La (see Trek 5).
在 Gokyo 有很多事情可以做。不要错过短途步行到 Ngozumpa 侧碛的山脊。你几乎可以在任何地方做到这一点，但最简单的方法可能是沿着一段通往 Dragnag 的小路走，这条小路始于 IPPG 搬运工避难所。Gokyo Ri 的攀登是必不可少的，那里的景色和 Kala Patthar 一样壮观，它无疑是徒步旅行者可以轻松到达的最佳喜马拉雅观景点之一。黎明非常壮观，如果你很幸运在傍晚有一个晴朗的天气，日落也是令人惊叹的。最后，沿着冰川上山谷看到上部湖泊的步行，无论是花几个小时还是一整天，绝对值得。而且如果你在返回 Namche 的路线方面仍然灵活，请考虑 Renjo La（参见 Trek 5）。

Ascent of Gokyo Ri
Gokyo Ri 的攀登

There-and-back distance: 4km (2½ mile); time: 3hr(2hr to ascend and 1hr to return); ascent/descent: 600m (1970ft)/3m (10ft); altitude gain: 595m (1960ft); max altitude: 5357m (17,575ft)
往返距离：4 公里（2½ 英里）；时间：3 小时（上升 2 小时，返回 1 小时）；上升/下降：600 米（1970 英尺）/3 米（10 英尺）；海拔增益：595 米（1960 英尺）；最高海拔：5357 米（17575 英尺）

Four eight-thousanders can be viewed from the top of Gokyo Ri, among many other spectacular mountains. Three of them – Everest, Lhotse and Makalu – are in one direction (east), so close to each other that you can frame them in one photo. As dawn breaks, the outline of the mountains highlighted from behind is both striking and unforgettable. On the other hand, when all the peaks turn orange and look warm and welcoming at sunset, the sight is no less spectacular! Which time to choose? If you go for sunrise you will need to start at least 2hr before dawn, which means leaving your sleeping bag long before the sun will warm you. On the other hand, you have a better chance of good weather and a clear sky in the morning than the evening. But of course, your choice would also depend on other plans, and any time of day is possible.
从 Gokyo Ri 顶峰可以看到四座八千米高峰以及其他许多壮丽的山峰。其中三座——珠穆朗玛峰、洛子峰和马卡鲁峰——在一个方向（东方），如此靠近，以至于可以在一张照片中捕捉到。黎明破晓时，山峦从背后勾勒出的轮廓既引人注目又令人难忘。另一方面，当所有的山峰在日落时变成橙色，显得温暖而宜人，这景象同样壮观！选择哪个时间呢？如果选择日出，你需要至少在黎明前 2 小时出发，这意味着要在阳光温暖你之前就离开睡袋。另一方面，早晨比晚上更有机会遇到好天气和晴空。当然，你的选择也取决于其他计划，任何时候都是可能的。

Makalu at sunset seen from Gokyo Ri
日落时的 Makalu，从 Gokyo Ri 看到

As there’s no water available on the way, it is important to carry sufficient with you. The straightforward ascent begins at the lake shore at the foot of the mountain just 200 metres from the Gokyo lodges. It is a steep climb on a clear zig-zag path, and roughly halfway to the top, Everest appears behind you. Second left of Everest is Pumori, seen now from a new perspective at a distance of 15.5km (9½ miles). Like Ama Dablam, it never fails to look beautiful – but it will almost disappear from view before you reach the top of Gokyo Ri.
由于路上没有水源，随身携带足够的水是很重要的。直接上升的路段从距离 Gokyo 旅馆仅 200 米的山脚下的湖边开始。这是一段陡峭的攀登，有明显的之字形小径，大约在山顶的一半时，身后出现了珠穆朗玛峰。在珠穆朗玛峰的左二是 Pumori，从新的角度以 15.5 公里（9½英里）的距离可以看到。就像 Ama Dablam 一样，它总是美丽迷人——但在到达 Gokyo Ri 顶峰之前，它几乎会从视野中消失。

The summitenjoys spectacular, distant views in every direction. Just 15km (9 miles) away, Cho Oyu (seen to the north) is the nearest of the eight-thousanders. The broad peak to the right of Cho Oyu, to which it is connected by the prominent ridge, is Ngozumpa Kang I (7916m/25,971ft; recently renamed Tenzing Peak). The next summit along the same ridge is, the author believes, still called Ngozumpa Kang II (7743m/25,404ft) and the following one, whose previous name was probably Ngozumpa Kang III, has been renamed Hillary Peak (7681m/25,20ft). At the far end of the ridge is Gyachung Kang (7952m/26,089ft or 7985m/26,198ft), the highest mountain below 8000m.
山顶享有四面八方壮观而遥远的景色。距离仅有 15 公里（9 英里）的卓奥友峰（北面可见）是最近的八千米山峰。在卓奥友峰右侧，由显著山脊连接的是洛子峰 I（7916 米/25,971 英尺；最近被重命名为丹增峰）。沿着同一山脊接下来的山峰，作者认为仍称为洛子峰 II（7743 米/25,404 英尺），其后的一个山峰，之前可能叫洛子峰 III，现在被重命名为希拉里峰（7681 米/25,20 英尺）。山脊的最远端是嘉措岗（7952 米/26,089 英尺或 7985 米/26,198 英尺），是高于 8000 米以下的最高山峰。

Everest is 24km (15 miles) away towards the east. Compared with the view from Kala Patthar, the North Face – which was previously obscured by the West Shoulder – can now be clearly seen. The Face is topped by the North Ridge which is followed by those who attempt the mountain from the Tibetan side. That was also the route taken by Mallory and Irvine on their ill-fated attempt in 1924. Mallory’s body was found 75 years later on the upper, left section of the Face as you look at it from Gokyo Ri. To the right of Everest, the Hillary Step, South Summit and the South-East Ridge, which is part of the normal route from the Nepalese side, appear similar to the view from Kala Patthar. You may see the entire ridge of Nuptse now. Lhotse is viewed from a slightly new perspective with the upper part of its West Face visible. The Face drops to the Western Cwm at 6000–6800m, and you can probably better imagine now the Cwm itself encircled by the West Shoulder, Everest, South-East Ridge, South Col, Lhotse and the long ridge of Nuptse. What an amazing sight that must be!
珠穆朗玛峰在东边 24 公里（15 英里）处。与从卡拉帕塔尔看到的景色相比，现在可以清楚地看到之前被西肩遮挡的北坡。北坡的顶部是北脊，攀登者从西藏一侧攀登时沿此路线前行。1924 年，马洛里和欧文在他们的不幸尝试中也走了这条路线。马洛里的遗体在 75 年后被发现，在从戈克约里看去的北壁的上部左侧。珠穆朗玛峰的右边是希拉里阶、南峰和南东脊，这是来自尼泊尔一侧的正常路线的一部分，看起来与从卡拉帕塔尔看到的景色相似。你现在可能看到努子峰的整个山脊。从一个略新的角度可以看到洛子峰，其西坡的上部可见。山坡在 6000-6800 米处下降到西隆沟，你现在可以更好地想象出被西肩、珠穆朗玛峰、南东脊、南坳、洛子峰和努子峰长脊环绕的隆沟。那一定是个令人惊叹的景象！

Slightly right of Lhotse is Makalu, which you are certainly familiar with by now. It is over 40km (25 miles) distant from here. The West Face you are looking at is sometimes referred to as ‘one of the great Himalayan problems’. Some of the best climbers of the 20th century, including Wojtek Kurtyka and Alex Maclntyre, made attempts on this wall; it was finally climbed in 1997 by a Russian team. The significant peak to the left of Makalu, and connected to it by a long ridge, is Kangchungtse (7678m/25,190ft), also known as Makalu II (see Trek 5, Section 5).
洛子峰稍右是马卡鲁峰，你现在肯定已经熟悉了。它距离这里超过 40 公里（25 英里）。你正在看的西壁有时被称为“喜马拉雅山的重大难题之一”。包括 Wojtek Kurtyka 和 Alex Maclntyre 在内的 20 世纪一些最佳登山者曾尝试攀登这面墙；最终在 1997 年由一个俄罗斯队成功攀登。马卡鲁峰左边的显著山峰，通过长山脊与之相连，是康仲策峰（7678 米/25,190 英尺），也被称为马卡鲁二峰（参见徒步旅行 5，第 5 节）。

To the right of the three eight-thousanders, just on the other side of the Ngozumpa Glacier, stand Cholatse and Taboche, while others further to the right include Malanphulan, Kangtega, Thamserku and Kusum Kanguru – all of which you will have seen earlier. The Renjo La, third of the passes on Trek 5, is south-west of Gokyo Ri, 2.9km (1¾ miles) distant as the crow flies.
在三个八千米山峰的右边，Ngozumpa 冰川的另一侧，矗立着 Cholatse 和 Taboche，而右边更远处有 Malanphulan、Kangtega、Thamserku 和 Kusum Kanguru——这些你之前都看过。Renjo La 是徒步旅行 5 的第三个山口，位于 Gokyo Ri 的西南，直线距离 2.9 公里（1¾英里）。

Retrace your outward route to return to Gokyo.
沿原路返回到 Gokyo。

Upper lakes of Gokyo
高原湖泊 Gokyo

The ablation valley which runs parallel to the Ngozumpa Glacier, between its lateral moraine and the valley slope, continues towards Cho Oyu. It is a fairly wild area of exceptional beauty and striking surroundings, and it definitely deserves your attention. A clear, gradually ascending path runs parallel to the glacier, crossing occasional moraine hills and passing a few more lakes. Depending on time available and your further plans, you could spend a half- or even a full-day exploring the valley above Gokyo. If you have camping equipment and food, you could walk further and spend a night in this awe-inspiring landscape.
消融谷平行于 Ngozumpa 冰川，位于其侧碛和山谷坡之间，继续向 Cho Oyu 方向延伸。这是一个相当原始的地区，具有非凡的美景和引人注目的环境，绝对值得您的关注。一条清晰、逐渐上升的小路平行于冰川，偶尔穿过碛丘并经过几个湖泊。根据可用的时间和您的后续计划，您可以花半天甚至整天来探索 Gokyo 上方的山谷。如果您有露营设备和食物，您可以继续步行，夜宿在这个令人敬畏的景观中。

It is about 2.3km/1½ miles (a relaxing hour’s walk) to the next lake up from Dudh Pokhari – Thonak Tsho, located at about 4870m (15,978ft). This is the largest of the Gokyo Lakes. The following one – Ngozumpa Tsho(about 4990m/16,371ft) is approximately 3.6km (2¼ miles) further on. You could continue along the glacier for another 3.5km to reach a place marked on some maps as Cho Oyu BC. This is shortly after the valley’s curve where there’s another lake called Gyazumba Tshoat about 5200m (17,060ft). This continuation has not been tested by the author; ask locally for details.
从都德普卡里往上的下一个湖－东纳克措－大约 2.3 公里/1½英里（轻松步行一个小时），位于约 4870 米（15,978 英尺）。这是珠穆朗玛湖中最大的一个。接下来的一个湖－午宗措（约 4990 米/16,371 英尺）大约再前进 3.6 公里（2¼英里）。你可以沿着冰川继续行进另 3.5 公里，到达一些地图上标注的绰友大本营。这是一处在山谷弯道不久处的另一个湖，叫做伽宗巴措，海拔约 5200 米（17,060 英尺）。作者并未测试此段路，建议在当地咨询详情。

Thonak Tsho

The same route is taken for the return to Gokyo.
返回戈克约时采用相同的路线。

Ways out from Gokyo
Gokyo 的出路

As mentioned in the introduction to this chapter, there are several options for leaving Gokyo. Either the Cho La or the Renjo La could be crossed, as described in Trek 5. For the most straightforward route, retrace your steps along the Dudh Koshi, allowing two days to reach Namche this way. You could also go down the valley on its left side, although this route has not been tested by the author.TREK 5
如本章介绍部分所述，离开 Gokyo 有几种选择。可以穿越 Cho La 或 Renjo La，如 Trek 5 中所述。对于最简单的路线，沿着 Dudh Koshi 重走，允许两天时间以这种方式到达 Namche。你也可以沿着山谷的左侧下行，尽管这种路线尚未被作者测试。TREK 5

Everest, Nuptse, Lhotse, the Ngozumpa Glacier, Dudh Pokhari and Gokyo, seen on the way to Renjo La on a late autumn trek
埃弗勒斯特、努子峰、洛子峰、纳木措巴冰川、杜德湖和高渥，见于深秋徒步前往仁乔拉的路上

Everest Base Camp Trek
珠峰大本营徒步旅行

Duration16 days
持续时间 16 天

Max Elevation5545m
最高海拔 5545 米

Difficultymedium–hard
难度中等-困难

SeasonOctober–December & February–May
季节十月至十二月及二月至五月

Start/FinishLukla
开始/结束 Lukla

PermitsTIMS card, Sagarmatha National Park permit
PermitsTIMS 卡，珠穆朗玛峰国家公园许可证

SummaryThe definitive Himalayan trek, flying into Lukla and climbing to the foot of Mt Everest through breathless high alpine landscapes.
总结：这是一场飞往卢克拉并攀登至珠穆朗玛峰脚下的终极喜马拉雅徒步旅行，途经令人窒息的高山景观。

Iconic Mt Everest has exerted a powerful draw for a century now. By following this route, you will be following in the footsteps of great mountaineers like Reinhold Messner, Edmund Hillary and Tenzing Norgay. As you climb through the foothills of the world's highest mountain, the terrain soars on all sides like jagged shards of glass. The trails are steep and the altitude hangs on your muscles like a diving belt, but the sense of achievement at the end of the trek is quite profound.
标志性的珠穆朗玛峰一个世纪以来对人类具有强烈的吸引力。沿着这条路线走，你将追随像 Reinhold Messner、Edmund Hillary 和 Tenzing Norgay 这样的伟大登山者的脚步。当你攀登世界最高峰的山麓时，四周如同锋利的玻璃碎片般陡峭。小道陡峭，海拔高度像潜水带一样压在你的肌肉上，但徒步旅行结束时的成就感相当深刻。

However, this is not a mountaineering expedition or a wilderness hike. There are trekking lodges every few hundred metres along the trails and tens of thousands of trekkers storm the trails ever year. Competition for accommodation can be fierce during the peak months of October to November, and March to May.
然而，这不是一次登山探险或荒野徒步旅行。在小径上每隔几百米就有徒步旅馆，每年有成千上万的徒步旅行者涌向这些小径。在 10 月至 11 月和 3 月至 5 月的旺季，住宿竞争可能非常激烈。

This area saw some damage in the 2015 earthquake. Many lodges suffered minor damage, and houses and trekking lodges collapsed completely in the villages of Thame, Pheriche and Khumjung. Until lodges are repaired, trekkers may need to choose alternative overnight stops. At the time of writing, it was not possible to confirm that all the lodges on this trek were open. As a sensible precaution, check locally to make sure accommodation will be available for all your overnight stops before starting your trek.
该地区在 2015 年地震中遭受了一些损坏。许多旅馆受到轻微损坏，而 Thame、Pheriche 和 Khumjung 村庄的房屋和徒步旅舍则完全倒塌。旅馆修复之前，徒步旅行者可能需要选择其他过夜停留地点。在撰写本文时，无法确认这条徒步路线上的所有旅馆都开放。作为明智的预防措施，出发前请当地核实所有过夜停留点的住宿情况以确保可用。

You should also be aware that the views of Everest are neither brilliant or guaranteed. Many trekkers climb to the viewing summit of Kala Pattar, only to find the peaks have vanished into a swirling mass of vapour.
你还应该知道，珠穆朗玛峰的景色既不精彩也不保证。许多徒步旅行者攀登到卡拉帕塔尔观景峰，结果发现山峰消失在翻腾的云雾中。

Because of the risk of acute mountain sickness (AMS), it takes a minimum of two weeks to climb to Everest Base Camp and return to Lukla. You don't have to sit around on rest days - there are lots of interesting side hikes to fabulous places like Thame and Chhukung and these will improve your fitness and acclimatisation before you head to the base camp.
由于急性高山病（AMS）的风险，需要至少两周时间才能攀登到珠峰大本营并返回卢克拉。在休息日你不必呆在原地——周围有许多有趣的短途徒步旅行，前往 Thame 和 Chhukung 等绝佳地点，这些徒步旅行将帮助提高你的身体素质和适应能力，然后再前往大本营。

The main downside to the simple Base Camp trail is that you return along the same route. To mix up the return section consider heading back via Phortse and Khunde. For loop options see the Gokyoand Three Passes treks
简单大本营小径的主要缺点是你沿着同一路线返回。为了改变返回路线，可以考虑通过 Phortse 和 Khunde 返回。有关环线选项，请参见 Gokyo 和三条通道徒步路线。

WARNING
警告

Be alert for the symptoms of altitude sickness on this trek, and follow the recommended rest days. These are very important for acclimatisation and will allow you to see much more of the Khumbu region than you’ll see if you rush directly to Base Camp. The trek to Base Camp is not especially strenuous; the trekkers who fail to reach their goal are usually those who don't allow enough time for acclimatisation.
在这次徒步旅行中注意高原反应的症状，并遵循推荐的休息日。这对于适应海拔非常重要，并且会让你看到更多的 Khumbu 地区，而不是急匆匆直奔大本营。前往大本营的徒步旅行并不是特别费力；未能实现目标的徒步旅行者通常是那些没有留出足够时间进行适应的人。

kThe Trek

Day 1: Lukla to Phakding
第 1 天：Lukla 到 Phakding

3 hours / 200m descent / 50m ascent
3 小时/200 米下降/50 米上升

It’s an easy and gentle first day from Lukla to Phakding, but you will see some evidence of earthquake damage along this route and some lodges may not be operating - check locally to see what accommodation is available at each stop before setting off from Lukla.
从 Lukla 到 Phakding 的第一天是轻松而温和的，但您会在这条路线上看到一些地震损坏的痕迹，有些旅馆可能尚未营业——在从 Lukla 出发前，请在当地检查每个停靠点有什么住宿可用。

After arriving in Lukla, sorting out your porter(s) and repacking, most people head off mid-morning. As you head through the north end of Lukla, you pass a tourism police checkpost where you must register your TIMS card and list any valuables. You finally leave Lukla through the Pasang Lhamo Memorial Gate, named after the first Nepali woman to summit Everest. Just below is a white chorten dedicated to the 18 victims of the 2008 Yeti Airlines air crash at Lukla.
到达卢克拉后，整理出你的搬运工并重新打包，大多数人会在上午出发。当你穿过卢克拉的北端时，你会经过一个旅游警察检查站，在那里你必须登记你的 TIMS 卡并列出任何贵重物品。你最终通过帕桑·拉莫纪念门离开卢克拉，该门是以首位登顶珠穆朗玛峰的尼泊尔女性命名的。刚下面是一个白色佛塔，纪念 2008 年卢克拉 Yeti 航空公司空难的 18 名遇难者。

Leaving Lukla, the trail drops, keeps right at an unsigned junction to Chaurikharha, then runs level above the village of Kyangma. About 40 minutes from Lukla, you’ll enter the village of Cheplung(Chablung; 2700m), where a side trail from Shivalaya and Chaurikharka joins near the Hilltop View Lodge. There are several places to stay along the trail but some have been damaged in the quake. Before the disaster, the Khumbila Guesthouse and Amadablam Lodge were good choices for their pleasant front terraces, while the imposing Norbu Linkha Guesthouse had good rooms and valley views from its overhanging balconies. Ten minutes' walk above the village, squeezed into a cave at the bottom of soaring cliffs, is the tiny Cheplung (Taktag) Gompa; however, Cheplung village was badly damaged in the quake; ask at Norbu Linkha Guesthouse to see if it is possible to visit the gompa.
离开卢卡后，小路下降，在通往 Chaurikharha 的无标记交叉路口保持右侧，然后在 Kyangma 村上方平行延伸。从卢卡出发约 40 分钟后，您将进入 Cheplung（Chablung；2700 米）村庄，在 Hilltop View Lodge 附近有一条来自 Shivalaya 和 Chaurikharka 的支路。在小路沿线有几个住宿地点，但有些在地震中受损。在灾难发生之前，Khumbila Guesthouse 和 Amadablam Lodge 因其舒适的露台而是不错的选择，而壮观的 Norbu Linkha Guesthouse 则提供从悬挑阳台上看到的不错房间和峡谷美景。在村庄上方步行十分钟处，在悬崖底部的一个洞穴中，有一个小小的 Cheplung（Taktag）寺庙；不过，Cheplung 村在地震中严重受损，请在 Norbu Linkha Guesthouse 咨询一下是否有可能参观寺庙。

As you continue north from Cheplung, you’ll catch your first views of the Dudh Kosi roaring along the bottom of the valley. The trail descends through a community forest, past the pleasant Mountain View Restaurant, before crossing a swaying metal suspension bridge above the Thado Kosi Khola. Just beyond the bridge in Thadokoshiis another cluster of trekking lodges, but earthquake damage was widespread. Before the quake, Kusum Kangkaru View Lodge was a good choice for its views of Kusum Kangru(6367m), the most difficult of the Khumbu's trekking peaks, which rises at the east end of the side valley here.
继续从 Cheplung 向北行进时，您将第一次看到 Dudh Kosi 在山谷底部奔腾而过。小道穿过一个社区森林，经过宜人的 Mountain View Restaurant，然后越过 Thado Kosi Khola 上方摇晃的金属吊桥。就在 Thadokoshi 桥的另一边，有另一群徒步旅舍，但地震损害广泛。在地震前，Kusum Kangkaru View Lodge 因为可以眺望 Kusum Kangru（6367 米）而是一个不错的选择，这是 Khumbu 最难攀爬的徒步峰，它位于此处侧谷的东端。

It’s a short climb around the ridge to Ghat(Yulning; 2590m), on the edge of the Dudh Kosi. Before the quake, this was a good alternative overnight stop, but earthquake damage was severe, and some lodges may not be operating after the disaster. Before the tremor, the stone-built Eco Village Lodge, Himalayan Sherpa Lodge and Chamalungma Garden Lodge were all cosy and well run. Good choices further uphill included the Kongde View Lodge and Lama Lodge, which faced onto a small private red-walled gompa. In the village, note the shrine and mani wall dedicated to Green Tara.
这是一个沿山脊到达 Ghat(Yulning; 2590 米)的短暂攀登，位于 Dudh Kosi 的边缘。地震前，这是一个不错的过夜替代停留点，但地震破坏严重，一些旅馆可能在灾难后不再营业。地震前，用石头建造的 Eco Village Lodge、Himalayan Sherpa Lodge 和 Chamalungma Garden Lodge 都十分舒适且管理良好。再往上走的不错选择包括 Kongde View Lodge 和 Lama Lodge，面对一个小型私人红墙寺院。在村庄里，可以注意到供奉绿度母的神龛和玛尼墙。

A side trail from the Eco Village Lodge crosses the river to the west bank and runs for 30 minutes to the exclusive Beyul Hermitage & Farm, before eventually rejoining the main trail just north of Phakding.
从生态村小屋出发的小径穿过河到西岸，步行 30 分钟到达独特的 Beyul Hermitage & Farm，然后最终在 Phakding 北部重新接入主径。

If you have more time, the owner of Eco Village Lodge is full of ideas on local hikes, including a detour across the Dudh Kosi to a collection of mani stones, a rock painting of Buddha and a shabje(footprint) of Guru Rinpoche. This west bank trail was the one used by Hillary on the 1951 Everest reconnaissance trek.
如果你有更多时间，Eco Village Lodge 的主人对于当地徒步旅行有很多想法，包括绕道经过 Dudh Kosi 到一组玛尼石、一幅佛陀的岩画和莲花生大师的 shabje（脚印）。这条西岸小径是希拉里在 1951 年珠峰侦察行走过的路径。

Leaving Ghat, the main trail passes a school and enters a curious complex of mani walls, chortens, boulders carved with black and white Tibetan mantras and brightly painted prayer wheels. The focal point for this sacred Buddhist site is a small rock with strata in the shape of a lama’s hat, worshipped as a symbol of Guru Rinpoche.
离开 Ghat 后，主路径经过一所学校，然后进入一个奇异的群体，有玛尼墙、佛塔、刻有黑白藏文咒语的巨石和色彩鲜艳的转经筒。这个神圣佛教地点的焦点是一块小岩石，层面呈现喇嘛帽子的形状，被奉为莲师的象征。

The trail climbs over an old landslide to the hamlet of Chhuthawa(2591m) and then winds through forest beside the Dudh Kosi, passing the large, red-roofed Yeti Mountain Home.
小径爬过一个旧滑坡到达 Chhuthawa (2591 米) 小村庄，然后穿过森林沿着 Dudh Kosi 蜿蜒前行，经过大型红顶的 Yeti Mountain Home。

Follow the path up into the village of Phakding, a collection of more than a dozen lodges, straddling the Dudh Kosi at 2610m. Many buildings here saw damage in the earthquake but owners are rebuilding and most lodges are expected to be operating as normal for the 2015-2016 trekking season. Top picks before the disaster included the Snowland Lodge, Buddha Lodge, Royal Sherpa Resort, Sherpa Eco-Home, Shangrila Guesthouse and Khumbu Travellers Guesthouse, all lined up on the main street. Across the small stream is another collection of lodges, including the large Namaste Lodge. The Liquid Bar and Reggae Bar are just two of several bars and pool joints in this surprisingly raucous section of the trail.
沿着小路进入 Phakding 村，这里有十几个旅馆，坐落在海拔 2610 米的 Dudh Kosi。这些建筑中有许多在地震中受到了损坏，但业主正在重建，大多数旅馆预计在 2015-2016 年的徒步旅行季节正常营业。在灾难发生前的热门选择包括 Snowland Lodge、Buddha Lodge、Royal Sherpa Resort、Sherpa Eco-Home、Shangrila Guesthouse 和 Khumbu Travellers Guesthouse，全部位于主街上。小溪对面是另一片旅馆区，包括大型的 Namaste Lodge。Liquid Bar 和 Reggae Bar 只是这条路上这个令人惊讶的热闹地段中几家酒吧和撞球馆中的两家。

The path runs north across a long, sinuous suspension bridge over the Dudh Kosi to a smaller, quieter and nicer group of lodges; there was more earthquake damage here but restoration is underway. Good choices before the quake included the excellent Phakding Star Lodge and Sunrise Lodge, both with big gardens, large terraces, real coffee and some rooms with attached bathrooms (Rs 500). Behind these two lodges, a small track runs south to Jo’s Garden Lodge, a collection of stone cottages on the riverbank, one of the Himalayan Eco Resorts
小路向北延伸，穿过一座绵长蜿蜒的吊桥，跨过 Dudh Kosi 到达一个较小、更安静、更好的旅馆群；这里的地震损害更大，但修复工作正在进行中。地震前的好选择包括出色的 Phakding Star Lodge 和 Sunrise Lodge，两个旅馆都拥有大花园、大露台、真正的咖啡和一些带独立浴室的房间（Rs 500）。在这两个旅馆的后面，一条小道向南延伸到 Jo’s Garden Lodge，这是一处位于河岸的石屋小屋，是 Himalayan Eco Resorts 之一。

If you find Phakding too busy and crowded, you may be able to find accommodation in Zamfute (25 minutes), Benkar (90 minutes) or Monjo (three hours), but note that all three villages saw some earthquake damage – check that accommodation will be available before leaving Phakding.
如果你觉得帕克丁太过繁忙和拥挤，你可以在 Zamfute（25 分钟）、Benkar（90 分钟）或 Monjo（三小时）找到住宿，但需要注意的是，这三个村庄都遭遇了一些地震破坏——在离开帕克丁之前，确认住宿是否可用。

MIND THE YAK
注意 YAK

Within a few minutes of leaving Lukla, you’ll probably spot your first yaks hauling gear for trekking groups – these beasts of burden will not give way to pedestrians so always step to the hill side of the trail (never the river side) to let them pass.
离开卢克拉几分钟后，你可能会看到第一批牦牛在为徒步旅行团运送装备——这些负重的动物不会让路给行人，所以总是站在小径的山侧（永远不要站在河侧）让它们通过。

Side Trip: Rimijung & Pangjung
小旅行：Rimijung & Pangjung

2–5 hours / 300m ascent / 300m descent
2–5 小时 / 300 米上升 / 300 米下降

Just north of Phakding, a yellow signposted side trail leads steeply up the ridge for 15 minutes to the Sherpa village of Rimijung(also known as Thulo Gumelha), set on a plateau overlooking the valley and untouched by the trekking crowds below. This part of the valley is known as Pharak. Check that the trails are open before setting off from Phakding.
在帕克丁以北，沿着一个黄色标牌的支路陡然向上攀登 15 分钟，便可到达设于高原的夏尔巴村庄里米基(也称为 Thulo Gumelha)，俯瞰山谷，未受下方徒步人群的影响。山谷的这一部分被称为 Pharak。在从帕克丁出发前，请确认小径是否开放。

Assuming all is well, swing left past fields of buckwheat to reach the 350-year-old Pema Choling Gompa, under restoration following the earthquake, which enshrines statues of Guru Rinpoche, Red Mahakala and the snow-lion-faced goddess Senge Dongma. Just above the gompa is the smaller Thaktul Gompa, the residence of a local rinpoche(reincarnate lama). Allow about 30 minutes each way for the walk from Phakding.
如果一切顺利，向左穿过荞麦田，到达 350 年历史的帕玛楚灵寺，地震后正在修复，其中供奉着莲花生大师、红色大黑天和雪狮面女神森革东玛的雕像。在寺庙的正上方是较小的塔赫图寺，是当地仁波切（转世喇嘛）的住所。从帕丁步行往返大约需要 30 分钟。

With more time to spare, you can climb for 40 minutes above the gompa to a small retreat for nuns at Gomlha. En route you might meet monks from Pema Choling surfing down the hillside on planks of wood.
如果有更多的空闲时间，你可以在寺庙以上攀登 40 分钟，到达格姆拉的一个小尼姑修行处。沿途你可能会遇到从培玛乔林用木板滑下山坡的僧侣。

Die-hards can continue steeply up the hillside for another hour to a hillside viewpoint at Pangjung(three hours total), which offers splendid views of the valley from Lukla to Khumjung, including the tip of Everest. Give yourself two hours to return to Phakding.
死硬派可以继续陡峭地向山坡上攀登一个小时，到达 Pangjung 山坡的观景点（总共三个小时），从那里可以欣赏从 Lukla 到 Khumjung 的山谷美景，包括珠穆朗玛峰的顶峰。返回 Phakding 需要两小时。

Day 2: Phakding to Namche Bazaar
第 2 天：Phakding 到 Namche Bazaar

5½ hours / 1000m ascent / 100m descent
5½小时 / 1000 米上升 / 100 米下降

From Phakding the trail follows the Dudh Kosi Valley north, meandering through the pines about 100m above the west bank of the river. The village of Zamfutehad a number of good lodges before the earthquake, including the large new Sherpa Shangrila Lodge, Kongde Peak Guesthouse (with some attached bathrooms) and River View Lodge, but some of these may be closed because of earthquake damage. Check that accommodation will be available before planning an overnight stop here. A second trail to Rimijung runs uphill from the Kongde Peak Guesthouse.
从帕克丁开始，小径沿着杜得科西河谷向北延伸，在河西岸上方约 100 米处蜿蜒穿过松树林。地震前，Zamfute 村有许多不错的旅馆，包括新的大型 Sherpa Shangrila Lodge、Kongde Peak Guesthouse（带部分独立浴室）和 River View Lodge，但由于地震损坏，其中一些可能已关闭。在计划在此过夜停留之前，请确认住宿是否可用。另一条通往 Rimijung 的小径从 Kongde Peak Guesthouse 向上延伸。

Crosing the Ghatte Khola by a small hydroelectric project, the trail climbs up over the ridge to the tiny village of Toktok, also damaged in the quake, where you may be able grab a bed or a bite at the Amadablam Lodge. Earthquake engineers have suggested moving the houses of Toktok across the river because of the risk of further rockfalls. The trail then descends through pines to a pretty, multilevel waterfall and restaurant.
穿过由一个小型水电项目的 Ghatte Khola，路径爬上山脊来到在地震中损坏的小村庄 Toktok，在 Amadablam Lodge 你可以找到一个床位或吃点东西。地震工程师建议将 Toktok 的房屋搬到河对面，以避免进一步的落石。然后小路穿过松树林下降到一个漂亮的多层瀑布和餐馆。

From here it's a short climb to a fine view of Thamserku, the 6608m peak that rises to the east of Namche Bazaar. The trail climbs to the agreeable Benkar Guesthouse and passes a small waterfall before cresting a miniature pass and dropping into Benkarat 2710m. Look up to the cliffs above Benkar to see a rock painting of Guru Rinpoche marking the entrance to a meditation retreat.
从这里，攀登一小段即可欣赏到 Thamserku 美丽的景色，这座高达 6608 米的山峰位于 Namche Bazaar 的东方。小路攀升至宜人的 Benkar Guesthouse，并经过一个小瀑布，然后越过一个小山口下降到海拔 2710 米的 Benkar。在 Benkar 上方的悬崖抬头，可以看到标志冥想修行入口的莲花生大士岩画。

Before the earthquake, Benkar was a popular alternative stop to Phakding, but a number of lodges here were damaged in the earthquake, and engineers have suggested moving the village because of the risk of further landslides. Check that accommodation will be available before planning an overnight stop here.
地震前，Benkar 是一个比 Phakding 更受欢迎的替代停留点，但是这里的一些旅馆在地震中受损，工程师建议因为再次滑坡的风险而搬迁这个村庄。在计划在此过夜停留前，请确认住宿是否可用。

Assuming lodges are open, the Everest Mini Guesthouse and Hotel Waterfall straddle the pass just before the village. Dotted among walled potato fields in the main village are half a dozen more lodges, including the Himalayan Guesthouse. The Tashi Guesthouse makes its own incense and has an incredible outdoor table on a stone platform that must rank as the most memorable lunch location in the Khumbu.
假设山舍是开放的，珠峰迷你宾馆和瀑布酒店位于小村庄前的通道上。主村庄里有半打散布在围墙马铃薯田中的旅馆，包括喜马拉雅宾馆。扎西宾馆自制香料，并拥有一个令人难忘的户外石平台桌，可以说是库姆布最难忘的午餐地点。

You are now about four hours’ walk from Namche Bazaar, but what a walk it is! Heading north from Benkar, the trail crosses back to the east bank of the Dudh Kosi by the River Side Lodge.
从现在开始步行到南奇集市大约需要四个小时，但这是多么精彩的步行！从本卡出发向北，步道在河畔小屋旁穿过道德科西河的东岸。

After 10 minutes you’ll reach Chumoa(2820m), where you will need to present your TIMS card to the checkpost. This village was also shaken by the tremor. Before the quake, there were five lodges in Chumoa, including the good Chumoa Guesthouse, but you will find more choice just minutes along the trail at Monjo.
10 分钟后你会到达 Chumoa(2820 米)，在那里你需要向检查站出示你的 TIMS 卡。这个村庄也被震动波及。地震前，Chumoa 有五家旅馆，包括不错的 Chumoa 旅馆，但你会在前往 Monjo 的路上找到更多选择。

Along this stage of the trek, villages are interspersed with magnificent forests of rhododendron, magnolia and fir. From Chumoa, it’s another short climb to the outskirts of Monjoat 2840m. The village has a pretty setting beside the Dudh Kosi, and you can visit the small Utse Choling Gompa set on a rocky outcrop next to the village school.
在徒步旅行的这一阶段，村庄与壮丽的杜鹃花、 玉兰和杉木森林交错分布。从 Chumoa 再短暂攀登便可到达海拔 2840 米的 Monjo 郊外。村庄坐落在 Dudh Kosi 旁的优美环境中，您可以参观位于村校旁岩石突出处的小乌云寺。

Some lodges here were damaged in the earthquake, but most are expected to be open for business by 2016; ask locally to see who has rooms available. As you enter the village you'll find the large but welcoming Monjo Guesthouse(r without/with bathroom Rs 200/1000), set around a kitchen garden that provides plenty of fresh organic vegetables and apples for the kitchen. There are more lodges uphill, including the wi-fi-enabled Mount Kailash Lodge, which is enlivened by flowers growing in old tin cans. At the top end of the village is the upmarket Everest Summit Lodgeand the Mountain View Lodge.
这里的一些旅馆在地震中受到了损坏，但大多数预计将在 2016 年恢复营业；请在当地询问看看谁有空房。当你进入村庄时，你会看到大而热情的 Monjo Guesthouse（无/有浴室，价格为 200/1000 卢比），周围是一个提供大量新鲜有机蔬菜和苹果的厨房花园。山上还有更多的旅馆，包括提供 Wi-Fi 的 Mount Kailash Lodge，由生长在旧铁罐中的花卉增添活力。在村庄的最顶端是高档的 Everest Summit Lodge 和 Mountain View Lodge。

Just above Monjo is the entrance checkpoint for the Sagarmatha National Park(adult Rs 3000; h6am-6pm), where your TIMS card and national park receipt will be checked. If you did not pay in advance, you can pay the national park fee at the counter. The attached information centre has a 3D map of the Khumbu Himalaya and displays on responsible trekking.
就在 Monjo 上方是萨加玛塔国家公园的入口检查站（成人 3000 卢比；早上 6 点到下午 6 点），在这里会检查你的 TIMS 卡和国家公园收据。如果你没有提前支付，可以在柜台支付国家公园费用。附属的信息中心有一张昆布喜马拉雅的 3D 地图，并展示关于负责任徒步的信息。

Beyond the national park checkpoint, the trail passes through a kani(stupa-shaped gateway) signifying your entry to a baeyul, or hidden land, and drops down next to an enormous granite bluff, carved with mantras in huge Tibetan characters. The trail cuts across to the west bank of the Dudh Kosi on another suspension bridge then runs north to Jorsale(Thumbug; 2830m). This is the last settlement before the big climb to Namche Bazaar and a good place to charge your fuel cells with a decent helping of daal bhaat. However, the village was badly affected by the earthquake - check ahead to make sure food and/or accommodation will be available.
在国家公园检查站之外，小路穿过一个香尼（佛塔形状的门），象征着你进入一个隐秘之地，然后沿着一个巨大的花岗岩悬崖下行，上面刻着巨大的藏文咒语。小路穿过另一座吊桥到达杜德科西河的西岸，然后向北到达 Jorsale（Thumbug；2830 米）。这是前往南池大巴扎之前的最后一个定居点，是一个用大份的 daal bhaat 补充能量的好地方。然而，该村庄受到地震的严重影响——请提前确认食物和/或住宿是否可用。

Before the quake, Jorsale had six almost identical lodges lined up along the trail – the Boudha Lodge was recommended, as was the River View Restaurant with its back verandah overlooking the river. If open, the alpine-style Nirvana Lodge(www.kazi-sherpa.com)(www.kazi-sherpa.com) is a good choice for its charming garden; the kitchen serves Austrian treats like home-baked bread and kaiserschmarrn(shredded pancake). The German-speaking owner acts as a guide. You will have to stop briefly at the end of town to register with the army.
在地震之前，Jorsale 有六个几乎相同的小屋沿小道排列——Boudha Lodge 和 River View Restaurant（其后面的阳台俯瞰河流）都被推荐。如果开放的话，阿尔卑斯风格的 Nirvana Lodge 是一个不错的选择，因其迷人的花园；厨房提供奥地利美食，如自制面包和 kaiserschmarrn (碎煎饼)。德国籍老板充当导游。你需要在镇子的尽头短暂停留，向军队登记。

Just above the checkpoint is the ruined former tsamkhang(meditation retreat) of the local lama, set in a huge cave above the village. The interior murals painted on planks of wood are exquisite. The tricky 10-minute trail here runs from behind the Sherpa Lodge. Check that it's open at the Bouddha Lodge, which is run by the lama's grandson.
在检查站上方是当地喇嘛的废墟前 tsamkhang（冥想静修处），位于村庄上方的一个大洞穴中。内部在木板上绘制的壁画非常精美。这里有一条需要花费 10 分钟的小路，从夏尔巴旅馆后面走。检查它是否开放可在由喇嘛的孙子经营的 Bouddha Lodge 查询。

Above Jorsale the trail recrosses the Dudh Kosi on yet another suspension bridge. Follow the lower riverbank trail over gravel and boulders before climbing back into the forest. Before long, you’ll see the confluence of the rivers Bhote Kosi and Dudh Kosi – the trail to Namche Bazaar climbs directly up the spur between these two watercourses, a continuous ascent of around two hours.
在 Jorsale 以上，小径再次通过一座悬索桥跨越 Dudh Kosi 河。沿着较低的河岸小径穿过碎石和巨石，然后再爬回森林。不久后，你将看到 Bhote Kosi 与 Dudh Kosi 的河流汇合处——通往 Namche Bazaar 的小径直接攀升这两条水道之间的山脊，连续上升大约两个小时。

Grit your teeth and climb to a drooping suspension bridge floating above the Dudh Kosi (if any yak or pony trains are already on the bridge, let them pass – you don’t want to be tipped into the gorge by a pushy bovine). There is a powerful sense that this is where the mountains really begin.
咬紧牙关，攀登到悬浮在杜德·科西河上方的下垂吊桥（如果桥上已经有牦牛或小马队伍，先让它们通过——你可不想被一头强势的牛推下峡谷）。这里真的给人一种山峦从此开始的强烈感觉。

From here to Namche Bazaar, it’s a torturous, zigzagging ascent through dense pine forests, with only a handful of water-pipes to fill your drinking bottle. About halfway up is a public toilet where you can get your first partial glimpse of Everest.
从这里到南奇集市，是一段曲折的、锯齿形的上升路，穿过茂密的松树林，沿途只有少数几个水管可以装满你的水瓶。在大约半程的地方，有一个公共厕所，你可以在那里第一次部分看到珠穆朗玛峰。

Eventually, the path levels out and climbs gently out of the forest to a checkpost at Mislung, where you must present your TIMS card and national park receipt. The main trail continues to climb, branching right up stone steps for central and upper Namche Bazaar or continuing along the main trail for the lower or western village.
最终，小路变得平坦，并缓缓爬出森林，到达 Mislung 的一个检查站，在那里你必须出示你的 TIMS 卡和国家公园收据。主步道继续攀升，石阶向右分叉通往中部和上部的 Namche Bazaar，或沿主步道继续前往下部或西部村庄。

You'll be glad to set down your pack once you reach Namche, which is the closest the Khumbu region has to a city. Thankfully, Namche saw only minor damage in the earthquake. This climb has taken you to an elevation where you may feel the first symptoms of altitude sickness – be alert for the warning signs.
当你到达南池时，你会很高兴放下你的背包，南池是昆布地区最接近城市的地方。值得庆幸的是，南池在地震中仅受到轻微损害。这次攀登已经将你带到了一个你可能会感受到高原反应初期症状的高度——请注意这些警告信号。

EVEREST BASE CAMP TREK – TIMES
珠穆朗玛峰大本营徒步旅行 - TIMES

The following are trekking times only; stops are not included.
以下仅为徒步旅行时间；不包括停留时间。

DaySectionHours1Lukla to Cheplung1:15Cheplung to Phakding1:452Phakding to Benkar1:30Benkar to Monjo1:00Monjo to Namche Bazaar3:003Rest day4Namche Bazaar to Kyangjuma1:00Kyangjuma to Phunki Thenga1:00Phunki Thenga to Tengboche1:305Rest day6Tengboche to Pangboche1:30Pangboche to Pheriche/Dingboche2:007Rest day8Pheriche/Dingboche to Dughla2:009Dughla to Lobuche2:3010Lobuche to Gorak Shep2:3011Gorak Shep to Everest Base Camp6:00Gorak Shep to Kala Pattar4:0012Gorak Shep to Lobuche2:0013Lobuche to Pheriche/Dingboche3:0014Pheriche/Dingboche to Tengboche2:3015Tengboche to Namche Bazaar4:3016Namche Bazaar to Lukla6:00
天段时间 1 卢克拉到切普隆 1:15 切普隆到帕克丁 1:452 帕克丁到本卡尔 1:30 本卡尔到蒙乔 1:00 蒙乔到南池集市 3:003 休息日 4 南池集市到克扬朱玛 1:00 克扬朱玛到普恩基滕加 1:00 普恩基滕加到丁博切 1:305 休息日 6 丁博切到彭博切 1:30 彭博切到佩里切/丁博切 2:007 休息日 8 佩里切/丁博切到杜格拉 2:009 杜格拉到洛布切 2:3010 洛布切到戈拉克谢普 2:3011 戈拉克谢普到珠峰大本营 6:00 戈拉克谢普到卡拉帕塔尔 4:0012 戈拉克谢普到洛布切 2:0013 洛布切到佩里切/丁博切 3:0014 佩里切/丁博切到丁博切 2:3015 丁博切到南池集市 4:3016 南池集市到卢克拉 6:00

Day 3: Acclimatisation in Namche
第 3 天：在南池适应环境

Trekkers should schedule an ‘acclimatisation day’ in Namche to avoid symptoms of AMS further up the trail. This doesn’t mean you have to stop walking – there are numerous short walks through the hills around Namche that will improve your fitness and help you adjust to the altitude without any dangerous increases in elevation.
登山者应该在南池安排一个“适应日”以避免在更高的路线上出现急性高山病的症状。这并不意味着你必须停止行走——在南池周围的山丘中有许多短途步行，可以提高你的身体素质，并帮助你适应海拔，而不会有危险的海拔升高。

You could easily spend a day exploring the shops and sights of Namche and Chhorkung. A shorter alternative to the two side trips described here is to hike up via Zarok to the runway at Shyangboche and then drop back down the zigzag path to Chhorkung for a hike of around 90 minutes.
你可以轻松地花一天时间探索南池和秋孔的商店和景点。这里描述的这两个分支旅行的一个较短选择是徒步通过 Zarok 到 Shyangboche 的跑道，然后沿着锯齿状的小路返回到秋孔，徒步大约 90 分钟。

You could also consider spending your second night at Khunde, Khumjung or Kyangjuma, or spending the day trekking out to Thame, though this village was badly affected by the earthquake.
您也可以考虑在 Kunde、Khumjung 或 Kyangjuma 度过您的第二个夜晚，或者花一天时间徒步前往 Thame，尽管这个村庄受到地震的严重影响。

WORTH A TRIPCHHORKHUNG
值得一游 CHHORKHUNG

One easy acclimatisation walk is the 15-minute climb to the village of Chhorkung(3540m), which sprawls along the ridge east of Namche. Climb up past the Panorama Lodge to a memorial gateway, from where you can visit the Sagarmatha National Park Visitor Centreand Sherpa Culture Museum; both are expected to be open for the 2015-2016 season. Figure on two-hour return trip.
一个简单的适应性步行是攀登到 Chhorkung(3540 米) 村庄的 15 分钟爬坡，村庄沿 Namche 东部的山脊延伸。爬到 Panorama Lodge 上方，经过一个纪念门廊，从那里可以参观 Sagarmatha 国家公园游客中心和 Sherpa 文化博物馆；两者预计将在 2015-2016 季开开放。预估往返需两个小时。

Side Trip: Namche Bazaar to Thame
短途旅行：南池市场到 Thame

6–7 hours / 330m ascent / 330m descent
6–7 小时 / 330 米上升 / 330 米下降

The most ambitious acclimatisation trek around Namche takes you west along the valley of the Bhote Kosi to the secluded village of Thame(3750m), set among fields beneath the mountain wall of Kongde Ri. However, the Thame Valley was severely affected by the 2015 earthquake and many houses collapsed completely in Thame and other villages along the route. Villagers are rebuilding but seek local advice about the availability of food and accommodation before setting off from Namche Bazaar.
最具挑战性的适应性徒步旅行将带您沿着 Bhote Kosi 山谷向西前往偏僻的 Thame 村（3750 米），该村坐落在 Kongde Ri 山墙下的田野中。然而，Thame 谷在 2015 年地震中受到严重影响，Thame 村及沿途其他村庄的许多房屋完全倒塌。村民们正在重建，但在从 Namche Bazaar 出发之前，请咨询当地关于食物和住宿的可用性。

Assuming the route is open, it should take about 3½ hours to trek from Namche Bazaar to Thame. If you are in good shape and well acclimatised, it is possible to make the trip to Thame and back to Namche Bazaar in one long day. However, if accommodation is available, staying the night at Thame will provide the opportunity to enjoy the clear mountain views in the morning.
假设路线开放，从纳木切集市到塔美的徒步旅行大约需要 3½小时。如果你身体状况良好并已适应高原环境，可以在一天内往返塔美和纳木切集市。然而，如果有住宿，晚上留宿在塔美将有机会在早晨欣赏清晰的山景。

The trail to Thame begins by Namche Gompa and climbs around the ridge through a quarry, passing some enormous mani boulders, with carved mantras picked out in black and white paint.
通往 Thame 的小径始于 Namche Gompa，沿着山脊爬升通过一个采石场，经过一些巨大的玛尼石，石上刻着的祷文用黑白漆描绘。

After passing a turn-off to Shyangboche, the trail enters a pretty forest of pines and rhododendrons, where you’ll hear the jangling bells of grazing yaks. Keep an eye out for musk deer among the trees as you skirt around the ridge to an ancient mud-plastered stupa at Phurte(3390m). If open, the small Kongde View Lodge by the stupa is a good choice for clean rooms and snacks.
经过一个通往 Shyangboche 的岔路口后，小路进入了一片漂亮的松树和杜鹃花的森林，在那里您会听到放牧的牦牛挂铃声。绕过山脊时，请留意树间的麝鹿，前往 Phurte(3390m)的一座古老泥涂的佛塔。如果开门，佛塔旁的小 Kongde View Lodge 是干净的房间和小吃的好选择。

Follow a forest path dotted with flowering irises around the ridge to a boulder with a painted image of Guru Rinpoche at Samshing, then swing past a large chorten. Pass underneath a kaniand cross a crystal-clear stream at Tesho(Thesiyo), where the lovely side valley of the Thesebu Khola beckons invitingly. If open, the simple Khumbila Restaurant makes a handy tea stop.
沿着一个森林小径，点缀着盛开的鸢尾花，绕过山脊，来到 Samshing 的一块画着莲花生大士的巨石，然后绕过一座大佛塔。穿过一座拱门，在 Tesho（Thesiyo）穿过清澈见底的小溪，这里是迷人的 Thesebu Khola 旁支谷地。若开放，Khumbila 餐厅是一个不错的茶歇地。

Just beyond the bridge, a side trail branches right up stone steps to Mende(3700m), a patchwork of stone-walled fields on a small plateau. A 20-minute walk above Mende is Lawudo Gompa(%9851070922; www.lawudo.com), a monastic school and meditation retreat used by students from Kopan Monastery near Bodhnath. The monastery was badly damaged by the earthquake and reconstruction work is underway; depending on the status of the works, it may be possible for Buddhist-minded trekkers to overnight here – contact them in advance to check. Also damaged, but expected to open for the 2015-2016 trekking season, the chalet-style Everest Summit Lodgeoffers luxury accommodation on the edge of the ridge at Mende.
就在桥的另一边，有一条小径分支，右转沿着石阶上到 Mende(3700 米)，这里是一个小高原上的石墙田地拼接而成的地方。从 Mende 向上步行 20 分钟就是 Lawudo Gompa(%9851070922; www.lawudo.com)，这是一个被 Bodhnath 附近的 Kopan Monastery 学生使用的僧侣学校和冥想静修地。该寺庙在地震中严重受损，重建工作正在进行中；视工程进度而定，佛教徒徒步旅行者可能可以在此过夜——请提前联系以确认。Everest Summit Lodge 在 Mende 的山脊边缘的木屋式酒店也遭到损坏，但预计在 2015-2016 徒步旅行季节会开放，提供豪华住宿。

Continuing west from Tesho, climb through rhododendrons to the ridge. About an hour after leaving Phurte, you’ll roll into Thamo(3440m), also damaged in the quake. Check ahead to make sure lodges are open before planning a stop here. Before the quake, the neat and tidy Maya Lodge at the beginning of the village was a good choice and used home-grown organic vegetables in the kitchen. Other options were the friendly Thamo Guesthouse and Tashi Dele Lodge, next to the large mani wall and stupa in the middle of the village.
继续从 Tesho 向西，穿过杜鹃花林攀登山脊。离开 Phurte 大约一个小时后，您将到达 Thamo(3440 米)，这里也在地震中受损。在计划在这里停留之前，请提前确认旅馆是否开放。在地震之前，村庄开始处整洁的 Maya Lodge 是一个不错的选择，厨房使用自家种植的有机蔬菜。其他选择是友好的 Thamo Guesthouse 和 Tashi Dele Lodge，位于村庄中间的大型玛尼墙和佛塔旁边。

At the top end of Thamo, the trail reaches a kaniand a junction – ignore the path that drops down to the Bhote Kosi, and climb past the Valley View Lodge and the Khari Gompa(now under reconstruction for the second time following the earthquake), which is used mostly by nuns.
在 Thamo 的顶端，小路到达一个 kaniand 交叉路口——忽略通向 Bhote Kosi 的下坡小径，攀爬经过 Valley View Lodge 和 Khari Gompa(现在正因地震进行第二次重建)，这里主要由尼姑使用。

Above Thamo, the landscape is drier and dustier, like something from California's Sierra Nevada. The path ascends steadily above the stone village of Thomde, meeting a side trail that climbs back along the valley to Mende. Continue west to Somde(3580m), another cluster of stone-built houses, chortens and mani stones, which also saw extensive damage in the earthquake. If it is open, the spotless Sunshine View Lodge offers views of Kongde Ri and Pharchamo (6187m).
在 Thamo 之上，景观更加干燥和多尘，像加利福尼亚的内华达山脉。小径稳步上升，经过 Thomde 石头村，遇到一条沿着山谷返回 Mende 的支道。继续向西至 Somde(3580 米)，另一个由石头建成的房屋、佛塔和玛尼石群，同样在地震中遭受严重损坏。如果开放，无瑕的 Sunshine View Lodge 提供 Kongde Ri 和 Pharchamo (6187 米)的景观。

After another steep climb, the trail dives down to the river by a cliff wall with enormous muralsof Green Tara, Guru Rinpoche and Thangtong Gyalpo, a 14th-century mystic who constructed a series of iron chain bridges across the Himalaya (note the length of chain depicted in his right hand). Below the murals, you cross the raging Bhote Kosi over a narrow cleft in the rock.
在另一段陡峭的攀爬之后，小径沿着悬崖墙壁潜入河边，这里有巨大的绿度母、莲花生大士和工布嘎波的壁画。工布嘎波是一位 14 世纪的神秘家，他在喜马拉雅山脉修建了一系列铁链桥（注意他右手中描绘的铁链长度）。在壁画下方，你穿过怒涛奔腾的 Bhote Kosi，通过岩石中的狭缝。

From the bridge, it's a steep final 20-minute climb up to the village of Thame(3820m), whose earthquake-damaged houses are scattered across a broad, flat flood-plain. The soft sediments beneath the village made Thame particularly vulnerable to earthquakes, and many houses here were destroyed. While villagers are rebuilding, it is essential to check that accommodation will be available here before setting out from Namche Bazaar, or from Gokyo if attempting the Three Passes trek.
从桥上开始，最后 20 分钟是陡峭的攀爬，来到 Thame 村（3820 米），其地震受损的房屋分布在宽阔、平坦的洪泛平原上。村庄下方的松软沉积物使 Thame 在地震中特别脆弱，许多房屋被摧毁。当村民们重建时，在从 Namche Bazaar 出发，或如果尝试 三个关口徒步旅行 从 Gokyo 出发前，务必检查这里的住宿是否可用。

Thame lies at an important junction, with trails running west towards Tesi Lapcha, the 5755m pass leading to the Rolwaling Valley (also severely affected by the earthquake), and north towards the Renjo La (5345m) and the Nangpa La (5716m) crossing to Tibet. The fang-like ridge of Kongde Ri (6187m) rises sheer above the valley.
Thame 位于一个重要的交汇处，向西的路径通往 Tesi Lapcha，海拔 5755 米的山口通向 Rolwaling Valley（同样受到地震严重影响），向北则通向 Renjo La（5345 米）和 Nangpa La（5716 米），贯穿至西藏。Kongde Ri（6187 米）如尖齿般的山脊陡峭地耸立在山谷上方。

Most lodges in the village were damaged in the earthquake, and some are beyond repair. It is not clear which of the following lodges will be open by the time you read this; ask locally for advice. Before the quake, the first lodge in the village was the Chooyo Thame Lodge on the right, while straight on was the popular Everest Summiteer Lodge. The nearby Valley View Lodge and Sunshine Lodge were recommended for offering some rooms with attached bathrooms, while the Tibet Guest House was notable for owner Pasang Sonam Sherpa, who made 10 successful summits of Everest. if you plan to overnight in Thame, check ahead to see what accommodation is available.
大多数村舍在地震中受损，有些已无法修复。目前不清楚在您阅读此信息时以下哪些村舍会开放；请在当地询问建议。地震前，村里第一家旅馆是右边的 Chooyo Thame Lodge，而直走则是受欢迎的 Everest Summiteer Lodge。附近的 Valley View Lodge 和 Sunshine Lodge 因提供一些带浴室的房间而受到推荐，而 Tibet Guest House 因业主 Pasang Sonam Sherpa 而闻名，他曾 10 次成功登顶珠峰。如果您计划在 Thame 过夜，请提前确认有哪些住宿可以提供。

A 25-minute trek up the sandy ridge behind the Valley View Lodge will get you to Thame Gompa, wedged into a crack in the rock at 3970m; keep to the left as you pass the chortens and mani walls. Set in a compound of slate-roofed stone houses, the gompa survived the earthquake, but many structures were damaged and restoration work is underway. The gompa (properly known as Dechen Chekhorling) was founded in 1667 but it has been renovated many times and the murals inside were retouched by local artists in 1998. The main chapel enshrines images of Chenresig, Guru Rinpoche and Sakyamuni, but the views over the valley are even more impressive than the Tibetan iconography inside. A single lodge here offers the chance to spend a serene night above the hubbub of Thame.
从山谷景观旅馆后面的沙脊上徒步 25 分钟即可到达 Thame Gompa，该寺庙嵌在海拔 3970 米的岩石裂缝中；经过佛塔和玛尼墙时请靠左走。寺庙位于石板屋顶石头房子的院落中，寺庙在地震中幸存，但许多建筑受损，修复工作正在进行中。寺庙（正式名称为 Dechen Chekhorling）创建于 1667 年，但经过多次翻新，内部壁画于 1998 年由当地艺术家重新修饰。主殿供奉着 Chenresig、莲花生大士和释迦牟尼的形象，但比起里面的西藏图像，俯瞰山谷的景色更加令人惊叹。这里只有一个旅馆，可以让你在 Thame 的喧嚣之上度过一个宁静的夜晚。

To return to Namche from Thame, you can either retrace your steps, or follow a quieter short cut along the south bank of the Bhote Kosi. From the Tibet Guest House, cross the stream to the reservoir, then follow the new wide trail just below the ridge. At the end of the spur, the trail drops steeply to a hydroelectric powerhouse, then turns left to cross the Bhote Kosi on a small bridge. Rise gently along the north bank to the stupa at Thomde and finally the kaniat Thamo. From here it's a pleasant two-hour stroll back to Namche.
要从 Thame 返回 Namche，可以选择沿原路返回，或者沿着 Bhote Kosi 南岸走一条更安静的捷径。从 Tibet Guest House 出发，越过小溪到水库，然后沿着山脊下方的新宽阔小径行走。在山脚尽头，小路急剧下降到水电站，然后左转通过一座小桥跨过 Bhote Kosi。沿着北岸缓缓上升到 Thomde 的佛塔，最后到达 Thamo 的 kani。从这里徒步约两小时即可愉快地返回 Namche。

KHUMBILA

The mountain that rises above Namche is Khumbila (5761m). Sherpas worship this mountain as the abode of the protector of the Khumbu region. The Sherpa name Khumbu Yul Lha translates as ‘God of the Khumbu territory’. On thangkas (Buddhist paintings) and monastery murals, Khumbu Yul Lha is depicted as a white-faced being riding on a white horse.
在南池上方耸立的山是 Khumbila（5761 米）。夏尔巴人崇拜这座山，认为它是 Khumbu 地区保护神的居所。夏尔巴族名字 Khumbu Yul Lha 意为“Khumbu 领地之神”。在唐卡（佛教绘画）和寺院壁画上，Khumbu Yul Lha 被描绘为骑着白马的白脸生物。

OFF THE BEATEN TRACKADVENTUROUS SIDE TRIPS FROM THAME
远离人迹罕至的小路，从 Thame 出发的冒险旁支小旅行

The valley east of Thame leads to the Rolwaling Valley over the Tesi Lapcha pass. The difficult pass crossing should only be attempted by well-equipped groups with experienced guides, ropes and crampons and may be closed completely because of earthquake damage. Check ahead to make sure the route is open to trekkers.
Thame 以东的山谷通过 Tesi Lapcha 垭口通向 Rolwaling Valley。困难的垭口穿越应该只由装备齐全、有经验的向导、绳索和冰爪的队伍尝试，并且由于地震损坏可能完全关闭。请事先检查以确保该路线对徒步者开放。

If you are not headed to Rolwaling but fancy an adventurous taste of the approach to the pass it's possible to overnight in Thame and then head west from the gompa up the valley for two hours to Thyangbo(4230m), near the pastures of Khure Kharka, where a simple lodge serves as a base camp to explore the trio of lakes at the base of Pachhermo peak and Tashi Labtsa wall. Figure on a two-day trip from Thame.
如果您不前往 Rolwaling 但想体验接近隘口的冒险，可以在 Thame 过夜，然后从寺庙向西行进两小时到达 Thyangbo（4230 米），靠近 Khure Kharka 牧场，一座简单的小屋可作为探险 Pachhermo 峰和 Tashi Labtsa 墙下三座湖泊的营地。从 Thame 出发预计需要两天。

Another side trip for the fully committed and acclimatised is to the top of Sunder Peak(5360m), the toughest of all the viewpoints in the Khumbu. You'll need to leave Thame at dawn to give yourself time for the relentlessly steep 1500m climb and its knee-crushing descent. The trail leads up from behind the gompa and ascends the ridgeline steeply. Your reward is a view of almost the entire Khumbu.
对于完全投入且已适应高海拔的人来说，另一次旁支旅行是到达 Sunder Peak（5360 米）的顶部，这是 Khumbu 中所有观景点中最艰难的一个。你需要在黎明时分离开 Thame，以给自己足够的时间进行无情的 1500 米陡峭攀登及其令人膝盖疼痛的下降。小道从寺庙后方开始，并沿着山脊线陡峭上升。你的奖励是几乎可以看到整个 Khumbu 的景色。

Side Trip: Sherpa Villages of Khumbu
支线旅行：Khumbu 地区的夏尔巴村庄

4–5 hours / 460m ascent / 460m descent
4–5 小时/ 460 米上升/ 460 米下降

Another rewarding acclimatisation trek is the full-day circuit through Shyangboche, Khunde and Khumjung and back to Namche, but all three villages saw some earthquake damage so check that the route is OK to trek before you set off.
另一个值得尝试的适应性徒步旅行是经尚博切、昆德和库木穷的全天环线徒步，并返回南池，但这三个村庄都在地震中受损，所以在出发前请确认路线是否可以徒步。

Pick up the trail above Namche Gompa and make a tiring ascent of the ridge on a steep, zigzagging path to the boulder-strewn village of Zarok, where the lonely but peaceful Sunshine Lodge is under reconstruction following the earthquake. Small quarries below here provide the stone for all the lodge construction going on in the valley.
沿着南池冈巴上方的小道行进，沿着陡峭的、曲折的小路艰难登上山脊，来到布满巨石的扎罗克村。那里孤独但宁静的阳光旅馆在地震后正在重建。村庄下方的小采石场为山谷中所有旅馆的建设提供石材。

Continue climbing past a signposted trail to Thame to the small Phinjo Lodge and the grass airstrip at Shyangboche(3790m). This lofty runway was built to serve the Hotel Everest View, but no airlines currently have planes that can climb to this lofty altitude.
继续攀登，经过一个标有去 Thame 路线的标志，来到小小的 Phinjo 小屋和位于 Shyangboche（3790 米）的草地简易机场。这个高处的跑道最初是为珠峰景观酒店服务的，但目前没有航空公司有飞机能够攀升到如此高的海拔。

Pass the runway and follow the signposted path to Khunde, which rises up a sandy gully between wind-twisted juniper bushes, passing a turn-off for a direct route to Khumjung. At the top of the ridge, the path enters a wonderland of carved boulders, chortens, junipers and rhododendrons, where a fairy-tale stairway drops to a kaniand Bodhnath-style chorten on the edge of Khunde(3840m), two hours from Namche Bazaar. The views of Khumbila, Ama Dablam and Thamserku peaks are wonderful.
穿过跑道，沿标记路径前往 Khunde，路径上升到被风吹弯的杜松丛之间的沙质峡谷，并经过一个通往 Khumjung 的直接路线的岔口。在山脊顶部，路径进入雕刻巨石、佛塔、杜松和杜鹃花的仙境，在这里，一个梦幻的楼梯通向 Khunde 边缘（3840 米）的一个 kani 和波德那式佛塔，离南奇集市两个小时。Khumbila、Ama Dablam 和 Thamserku 峰的景色十分壮观。

The village is famous as the location of the first hospital in the Khumbu, built by the Himalayan Trust in 1966, which played a major role in the relief effort following the earthquakes. A number of village houses collapsed in the disaster, but reconstruction work is underway. Above the village is the friendly Khunde Tsamkhang, a Buddhist temple founded by a lama who fled here from Tingri in Tibet in the 1970s; it's currently being restored following the earthquake.
这个村庄因其作为昆布地区第一家医院的所在地而闻名，该医院由喜马拉雅信托基金于 1966 年建成，在地震后的救援工作中发挥了重要作用。灾难中一些村屋倒塌，但重建工作正在进行中。村庄上方是友好的 Khunde Tsamkhang，一座由一位在 1970 年代从西藏定日逃到这里的喇嘛创立的佛教寺庙；目前正在地震后恢复中。

A side trail leaves the temple to gently traverse the ridge to the left. In 30 minutes you can reach the Hilary Memorial Viewpoint, offering 360-degree views over Khunde, Namche Bazaar, Ama Dablam and Pachermo peak behind Thame. Two minutes further up the ridge are three memorial chortens to Edmund Hillary, and to his wife Louise and daughter Belinda who both died in an aeroplane accident in the Khumbu. It's possible to continue to the top of the ridge for wonderful views down over Khumjung.
一条小路从寺庙出发，轻轻地穿过左边的山脊。30 分钟内，你可以到达希拉里纪念观景点，欣赏昆德、南池市场、阿玛达布拉姆和塔美背后的帕彻尔莫峰的 360 度全景。再往上山脊走两分钟，有三个纪念艾德蒙·希拉里及其妻子路易丝和女儿贝琳达（她们都在昆布的一次飞机事故中去世）的佛塔。可以继续到山脊顶端，欣赏昆穷的美丽景色。

If you want to spend the night there are several quiet lodges in the tangle of stone lanes near the hospital but it is unclear which are still operating after the earthquake. Before the quake, these included the pleasant Sonam Norwegian Lodge, Khunde Guest House and Green Valley Lodge; check locally to see what accommodation is available if you intend to stop overnight.
如果你想过夜，医院附近的石巷中有几家安静的小旅馆，但不清楚地震后哪些还在营业。地震前，这些包括舒适的 Sonam Norwegian Lodge、Khunde Guest House 和 Green Valley Lodge；如果你打算过夜，请在当地确认哪些住宿可用。

From Khunde, follow the obvious cobbled trail east for 15 minutes through potato fields to Khumjung(3780m), the largest village in the Khumbu, which sprawls below the peak of Khumbila (5761m). The houses here are large and impressive, and many locals own tracts of land further north along the valley. Sadly, the earthquake caused a fair amount of damage in the village and some houses were destroyed.
从昆德出发，沿着明显的鹅卵石小道向东走 15 分钟，穿过土豆田到达昆宗（3780 米），这是库姆布最大的村庄，伸展在昆比拉山峰（5761 米）下方。这里的房子大而令人印象深刻，许多当地人拥有沿山谷向北延伸的土地。不幸的是，地震给村庄造成了相当大的损害，一些房屋被毁。

In the south of Khumjung is the original Hillary school, established by Sir Edmund Hillary in 1961, just eight years after the conquest of Everest. Now under reconstruction following the earthquake, the school provides primary and secondary education for more than 350 children from surrounding villages. The mani wall here is said to be the longest in the Khumbu region.
在库姆尊的南部是希拉里原校，由埃德蒙·希拉里爵士于 1961 年建立，仅在珠穆朗玛峰被征服八年后。现在在地震后的重建中，这所学校为来自周围村庄的 350 多名儿童提供小学和中学教育。据说这里的玛尼墙是贡布地区最长的。

Khumjung has a small and atmospheric gompa, damaged but not destroyed in the earthquakes, reached by a winding path that starts near the Mountain View Lodge. One of the treasures kept here is a ‘yeti skull’ that was transported to America for analysis by Sir Edmund Hillary and village headman Konchok Chumbi. Tests concluded that the scalp was made from the skin of a serow, a member of the antelope family, but the legend continues.
Khumjung 有一个小而富有情调的寺庙，虽然在地震中受损但未被摧毁，从靠近 Mountain View Lodge 的小路蜿蜒而上即可到达。这里保存的宝物之一是 Sir Edmund Hillary 和村长 Konchok Chumbi 带去美国分析的"yeti 头骨"。测试结果表明，头皮是由一种属于羚羊科的动物的皮制成的，但传说仍在继续。

Before the disaster, there were at least 15 lodges in Khumjung, all offering rooms with shared bathrooms for the standard Khumbu rates, but some were damaged in the earthquakes; check locally to see which lodges are currently open. Before the disaster, the Khumbiye-La Garden Lodge, Hidden Village Lodge, Sherpaland Lodge and Panorama In Eco-Lodge by the village school were all good choices. In the eastern village, consider the large Khumjung Hotel(%038-540041; r Rs 300); at first glance the building looks large and impersonal, but there’s a sunny conservatory at the back.
灾难发生之前，Khumjung 至少有 15 个旅馆，所有旅馆都以标准的 Khumbu 价格提供带共享浴室的房间，但一些旅馆在地震中受损；请当地查看目前哪些旅馆开放。在灾难发生之前，Khumbiye-La Garden Lodge、Hidden Village Lodge、Sherpaland Lodge 和村庄学校旁的 Panorama In Eco-Lodge 都是不错的选择。在东部村庄，考虑一下大型的 Khumjung Hotel(%038-540041; r Rs 300)；乍一看，这栋建筑显得又大又不近人情，但后面有一个阳光明媚的温室。

For views and afternoon sun, try the Valley View Lodge and Khumjung Hilltop View Lodge in the upper part of Khumjung, near the gompa. There are many more lodges with similar facilities – just stroll through the village and see which places take your fancy.
如需观景和午后阳光，可以试试 Khumjung 上部的谷景山庄和 Khumjung 山顶景观山庄，靠近寺庙。还有很多设施相似的旅馆——只需在村庄中漫步，看看哪些地方让你动心。

For lunch, the long-established Everest Bakery is a local institution and the deep-filled apple pie is often said to be the best in the Khumbu; there are reports that the bakery was badly damaged so check locally to see if they are still baking.
对于午餐，历史悠久的 Everest Bakery 是一家当地机构，深填的苹果派常被称为 Khumbu 地区最好的；据报告称，面包店受损严重，因此请当地查看他们是否仍在营业。

Several paths lead on from Khumjung. If you are not returning to Namche Bazaar, the main trail drops over the eastern edge of the ridge on wide stone steps to Sanasa and Phortse Thenga (passed on Day 4 of the Everest Base Camp trek). To return directly to Namche Bazaar, take the path behind the Hillary school to the north end of the runway at Shyangboche.
从库姆庄出发有几条路径。如果你不返回南池市场，主小道将沿着宽阔的石阶从山脊的东边缘下降到萨那萨和 Phortse Thenga（在珠穆朗玛峰大本营徒步旅行的第 4 天经过）。要直接返回南池市场，请从希拉里学校后面的路径前往 Shyangboche 机场北端。

For a scenic route, take the small track that climbs south near the Everest Bakery for 10 minutes to the white Hillary Memorial Stupa. Continue uphill into a delightful forest and then bear right to reach the perimeter wall of the famous Hotel Everest View. The hotel used to fly guests into Shyangboche directly from Kathmandu, using pressurised rooms and piped oxygen to avoid their heads exploding from AMS. Needless to say, this is no longer regarded as a sensible policy.
为了一个风景优美的路线，从珠峰面包店附近向南爬的小道步行 10 分钟到白色的希拉里纪念塔。继续向上进入一个令人愉悦的森林，然后向右到达著名的珠穆朗玛峰景观酒店的围墙。酒店过去直接使用增压房间和管道氧气从加德满都飞往 Shyangboche，以避免客人的头部因急性高山病爆炸。不用说，这已经不再被视为一个明智的政策。

Follow the trail south from the Everest View as it winds around the steep hillside, then drop down to the southern end of the airfield, passing the seven-roomed Khumbu Mountain View Lodge and the laughably overpriced Everest Sherpa Resort(%01-447884; www.everestresort.com; s/d US$127/150), which was damaged in the earthquake but is being restored.
从 Everest View 向南沿小径行进，绕过陡峭的山坡，然后向下到达跑道的南端，经过七个房间的 Khumbu Mountain View Lodge 和高得离谱的 Everest Sherpa Resort（%01-447884; www.everestresort.com; 单人/双人房美金 127/150），该度假村在地震中受损，但正在恢复中。

Follow the path down through the junipers and cross the airfield, then take the steep trail that zigzags past a prayer-flag-strewn lookout down to the huge carved mani stone at Chhorkung (3540m).
沿着小路穿过杜松林并跨过机场，然后沿着陡峭的小径之字形穿过挂满经幡的观景台，向下走到 Chhorkung（3540 米）处巨大雕刻的玛尼石。

SHERPAS
夏尔巴人

The Solu-Khumbu region is the homeland of the Sherpas, a Buddhist people who migrated to Solu Khumbu from the Tibetan plateau around the 15th century. Sherpas still follow similar customs to the Buddhists of Tibet and they speak a language derived from Tibetan. The Sherpas call themselves ‘Shar-wa’ meaning ‘people from the East’. Sherpas can be divided into 18 ancient clans, but most Sherpa men take their names from the day of the week on which they were born – Lhakpa (Wednesday), Phurba (Thursday) etc. Sherpas often add the prefix ‘Ang’ to their name (similar to the English suffix ‘son’ or abbreviation ‘Jr’).
Solu-Khumbu 地区是夏尔巴人的家园，这是一群在 15 世纪左右从西藏高原迁徙到 Solu Khumbu 的佛教民族。 夏尔巴人至今仍遵循与西藏佛教徒相似的习俗，他们讲一种源自藏语的语言。夏尔巴人自称为‘Shar-wa’，意思是‘来自东方的人’。夏尔巴人可以分为 18 个古老的氏族，但大多数夏尔巴男性的名字取自他们出生那天的星期几——Lhakpa（星期三）、Phurba（星期四）等。夏尔巴人常在名字前加‘Ang’（类似于英语姓名后缀‘son’或缩写‘Jr’）。

The term ‘sherpa’ is applied to porters throughout Nepal, but only the people of Solu Khumbu and Helambu can properly be called Sherpas. Ever since the climbing expeditions of the 1950s, the Sherpas have been famous for their skills as mountaineers and high-altitude porters. In fact, they have a unique advantage in this regard – thanks to hundreds of years of living at high altitude, the blood of Sherpas is chemically more efficient at carrying oxygen than the blood of people from the lowlands.
“sherpa”这个词在整个尼泊尔都用于指代搬运工，但只有 Solu Khumbu 和 Helambu 的居民才能真正被称为 Sherpas。自 1950 年代的攀登探险以来，Sherpas 以其作为登山者和高海拔搬运工的技能而闻名。事实上，在这方面他们有一个独特的优势——由于数百年生活在高海拔地区，Sherpas 的血液在携氧方面比低地人的血液更高效。

Day 4: Namche Bazaar to Tengboche
第 4 天：Namche Bazaar 到 Tengboche

4 hours / 350m descent / 750m ascent
4 小时 / 350 米下降 / 750 米上升

There are several routes from Namche to Tengboche. One excellent option is to climb to Shyangboche and Khumjung; the advantage of this is that it avoids repetition on the way back. Most trekkers instead opt for the more direct, level trail that cuts around the ridge from Chhorkung.
从南池到丁波切有几条路线。一条极好的选择是先爬到香波切和孔珠；这样做的好处是可以避免返回时的重复。大多数徒步旅行者则选择更直接、更平坦的路线，从 Chhorkung 绕过山脊。

Pick up the path by the giant mani boulder in Chhorkung, and trek north around a long, denuded ridge. This slope was once covered by dense juniper forests, but locals have stripped the hillside for firewood to supply the demands of trekkers for cooked food, warm rooms and hot water. At the end of the bluff a memorial chorten to Tenzing Norgay frames a grand panorama of peaks, from Thamserku to Ama Dablam, Lhotse and Everest.
从 Chhorkung 巨大的 mani 巨石旁拾起小路，向北跋涉绕过一个长长的、秃裸的山脊。这个坡度曾经被茂密的杜松森林覆盖，但当地人为了满足徒步旅行者对熟食、暖房和热水的需求，已经将山坡上的树木砍伐作为柴火供应。在悬崖的尽头，一座纪念 Tenzing Norgay 的佛塔框住了一个从 Thamserku 到 Ama Dablam、Lhotse 和珠穆朗玛峰的宏伟山峰全景。

Every spur you gain seems to bring the mountains closer. At Kyangjuma(Kenjoma; 3550m), which escaped serious damage in the earthquake, several lodges offer a tea stop or a wonderfully quiet acclimatisation night – our picks are the professionally run Ama Dablam Lodge(%038-540013; r Rs 200-1500)with wi-fi, bakery, a sun terrace and warm restaurant, or the quieter and more intimate Dream Garden Lodge, which sells yak cheese.
每获得一个马刺似乎都会让群山更接近。在 Kyangjuma(Kenjoma; 3550 米)，这个在地震中逃过严重破坏的地方，有几家旅馆提供茶歇或一个非常安静的适应性夜晚——我们推荐专业经营的 Ama Dablam Lodge(%038-540013; r Rs 200-1500)，提供无线网络、面包店、一个阳光露台和温暖的餐厅，或者更安静、更温馨的 Dream Garden Lodge，售卖牦牛奶酪。

An important trail junction at Sanasa(3600m) is 10 minutes further on. Signposted trails climb the hillside to Khumjung (30 minutes) and Gokyo, while the trail to Tengboche runs gently downhill towards the river. There are three lodges at Sanasa, but most trekkers are put off by the over-enthusiastic souvenir vendors.
在萨纳萨(3600 米)有一个重要的路径交汇点，再往前走 10 分钟。标志指引的小路爬上山坡通往库姆尊（30 分钟）和戈格约，而通往腾波切的小路则缓缓下坡朝向河流。在萨纳萨有三家旅馆，但大多数徒步旅行者被过于热情的纪念品小贩吓退。

From Sanasa, the Tengboche trail drops gradually to Lawichasa(Labisyasa; 3450m), which has the Pokhara Lodge and a few smoky teashops. As you descend, the thumb-like peak of Ama Dablam soars into view above the trail.
从萨那萨（Sanasa）开始，通往定博切（Tengboche）的路径逐渐下降到拉维查萨（Labisyasa；3450 米），这里有博卡拉小屋（Pokhara Lodge）和一些烟雾缭绕的茶馆。在你下降过程中，姆达布拉姆山（Ama Dablam）如拇指般的峰顶跃入眼帘，矗立在小径上方。

A minor side trail branches north from Lawichasa to Tashinga(3380m), a grid of stone-walled fields on a flat bluff and the red-roofed luxury Everest Summit Lodge, which was damaged in the quake and expected to reopen in 2016.
一条小支路从 Lawichasa 向北分支到 Tashinga(3380 米)，那里是石墙田地组成的网格，坐落在一个平坦的悬崖上，还有一个红顶的豪华 Everest Summit Lodge 酒店，该酒店在地震中受损，预计于 2016 年重新开放。

Below Lawichasa, the Tengboche trail drops on steep stone steps to Phunki Thenga(3250m), a cluster of lodges and a bakery by a wood-and-stone bridge across the river, all of which escaped serious earthquake damage. From here it’s a draining two-hour climb to Tengboche, so make the most of the eating options – Evergreen Lodge and Cozy Garden Lodge both serve hearty meals.
在 Lawichasa 下方，Tengboche 小径沿陡峭的石阶下降到 Phunki Thenga(3250 米)，这是一座由木石桥横跨河流的旅馆和面包房群，这些地方都没有遭受严重地震损害。从这里到 Tengboche 需要耗费精力的两小时攀登，因此充分利用就餐选择——Evergreen Lodge 和 Cozy Garden Lodge 都提供丰盛的餐饮。

From the bridge, stop briefly at the army checkpost and then climb past some water-powered prayer wheels on a sustained 90-minute climb through a forest of tall, mature rhododendrons. Look out for musk deer and Himalayan tahr among the trees. On the way, there are several chautara (porter rest stops) and springs where you can set down your pack and enjoy the views towards Kantega. Kantega means ‘horse saddle’, and from here it’s clear how the mountain got its name.
从桥上短暂停留在军队检查站，然后穿过高大成熟的杜鹃花森林，在持续 90 分钟的攀登中经过一些水力经轮。在树林间寻找麝鹿和喜马拉雅塔尔羊。路上有几个 chautara（搬运工休息点）和泉水，您可以放下背包，欣赏朝向 Kantega 的风景。Kantega 的意思是“马鞍”，从这里可以清楚地看出这座山是如何得名的。

Eventually you’ll reach a kaniand a pair of chortens marking Tengboche(3870m). The village is scattered across a wide, grassy saddle below a crescent-shaped ridge covered by scrub pines and dwarf rhododendrons. The focal point of Tengboche is the famous Tengboche Gompa, the largest and most active monastery in the Khumbu, which is currently being restored after taking some damage in the earthquake. Taking photos is not allowed inside.
最终，你会到达一个墈和一对佛塔，标志着 Tengboche（3870 米）。村庄分散在一个宽阔的、覆盖着灌木松和矮杜鹃的草鞍下弦月形山脊下。Tengboche 的焦点是著名的 Tengboche 寺庙，这是 Khumbu 最大和最活跃的寺庙，目前正在经历地震后的修复。在寺庙内禁止拍照。

Across the meadow from the monastery is the eratically open Eco Centre(www.sacredland.net; admission Rs 100; h7-10.30am & noon-5.30pm Mar, Apr, Jun-Aug, Oct & Nov, 7-9.30am & 1-5pm Sep, Dec & May, 3-5pm Jan & Feb), with some thought-provoking displays on the history of Tengboche, the culture of the Sherpas and the environmental issues facing the Khumbu.
从修道院穿过草地，可以到达不定期开放的生态中心(www.sacredland.net; 门票 Rs 100; 开放时间为 3 月、4 月、6 月-8 月、10 月及 11 月的早上 7 点至 10 点 30 分及中午至下午 5 点 30 分，9 月、12 月及 5 月的早上 7 点至 9 点 30 分及下午 1 点至 5 点，1 月及 2 月的下午 3 点至 5 点)，在那里有一些关于丁波切历史、夏尔巴文化以及昆布地区面临的环境问题的发人深省的展示。

The lodges at Tengboche get extremely crowded during the trekking season and there was some damage here from the earthquake, so check locally to see which lodges are currently operating. Before the disaster, one good choice was the ramshackle backpacker Trekkers Lodge, by the start of the side trail to Phortse, with fine views looking back down the valley. In the meadow below the gompa, the fancy Tashi Deleck Lodge and Himalayan View Lodge have carpeted rooms and wi-fi and are popular with groups. At the lower end of the saddle are the simpler tin-roofed Tengboche Guest House and the run-down Gomba Lodge. Between these two lodges, the monastery-owned Tengboche Bakery(cakes Rs 400, mains Rs 500-600; h6am-8pm)serves big mugs of tea and coffee, huge slices of cake and portions of lasagne and pizza. It’s a great place to escape the chilly breezes that blow across the saddle. Depending on connections, you may be able to check email at nearby Tengboche Cyber.
在登山季节，Tengboche 的旅馆非常拥挤，并且这里因地震受到一些损害，所以请当地了解哪些旅馆目前正在运营。在灾难之前，一个不错的选择是 Trekkers Lodge，这是一家位于通往 Phortse 的小路起点处的破旧背包客旅馆，可以看到山谷下方的美丽景色。在寺庙下方的草地上，豪华的 Tashi Deleck Lodge 和 Himalayan View Lodge 拥有地毯房间和 Wi-Fi，深受团体欢迎。在鞍部较低的一端还有较为简陋的铁皮屋顶的 Tengboche Guest House 和破旧的 Gomba Lodge。在这两家旅馆之间，寺庙经营的 Tengboche Bakery（蛋糕 Rs 400，主餐 Rs 500-600；营业时间 6am-8pm）供应大杯茶和咖啡、大块蛋糕以及份量十足的千层面和披萨。这个地方是躲避吹过鞍部的寒风的好去处。根据网络连接情况，你也可以在附近的 Tengboche Cyber 查收邮件。

A quieter alternative to Tengboche is to continue for 20 minutes down the main trail to Debuche, where there are several excellent lodges.
相对于 Tengboche，一个更安静的选择是沿主步道继续走 20 分钟到达 Debuche，那儿有几家优质的旅馆。

TENGBOCHE MONASTERY

A powerful mythology has grown up around the monastery at Tengboche (Thyangboche) as a result of the writings of explorers and mountaineers, but the gompa is not as ancient as you might expect. The first gompa at Tengboche was constructed in 1916 by Lama Gulu, a monk from Khumjung, but the building was destroyed in the earthquake of 1934, which also killed its founder. A second gompa on the site lasted until 1989, when an electrical fire burned the stone-and-timber structure to the ground.
由于探险家和登山家的著作，关于 Tengboche (Thyangboche)修道院产生了一种强大的神话，但这座寺庙并不像你想象的那么古老。Tengboche 的第一座寺庙是由来自 Khumjung 的僧侣 Lama Gulu 于 1916 年建造的，但建筑在 1934 年的地震中被摧毁，创始人也在地震中遇难。该地的第二座寺庙一直存续到 1989 年，当时一场电火灾将这座石木结构的建筑烧毁。

Fortunately, most of the gompa’s valuable books, paintings and religious relics were saved. Using donations from Sherpas, foreign aid organisations, Buddhist groups and mountaineering and trekking companies, Tengboche was painstakingly reconstructed, reopening its doors in 1993. The main hall enshrines a 4m-high statue of Sakyamuni, flanked by the bodhisattvas Dorje Sempa (Vajrasattva) and Jampelyang (Manjushri) and backed by an ornate original wooden frieze that was rescued from the fire.
幸运的是，这座寺院的大部分珍贵书籍、画作和宗教遗物都被保存了下来。在夏尔巴人、外国援助组织、佛教团体和登山徒步公司捐款的帮助下，腾波切寺被精心重建，并于 1993 年重新开放。主殿供奉着一尊 4 米高的释迦牟尼佛像，旁边是菩萨金刚萨埵（Dorje Sempa）和文殊菩萨（Jampelyang），背景是一块从大火中拯救出来的华丽原木饰带。

Sadly, Tengboche sustained further earthquake damage in the 2015 quake. Restoration work is underway, but many of the monks cells and outlying buildings were damaged and some parts of the compound may be inaccessible. Assuming you can explore, look out for the stone with a foot-shaped imprint in the entryway to the monastery courtyard; this was allegedly left by Lama Sange Dorje as he travelled around the Himalaya in the 17th century. The fifth reincarnate lama of Rongbuk Gompa in Tibet, Sange Dorje is credited with bringing Buddhism to the Khumbu.
遗憾的是，Tengboche 在 2015 年的地震中遭受了进一步的地震破坏。修复工作正在进行中，但许多僧侣的住所和外围建筑受损，某些部分可能无法进入。假如你可以探索，请留意寺院庭院入口处有一个带脚印的石头，据称这是 17 世纪 Lama Sange Dorje 在喜马拉雅山周游时留下的。作为西藏 Rongbuk Gompa 的第五世转世喇嘛，Sange Dorje 被认为将佛教带到了 Khumbu。

The monastery courtyard is the setting for the famous Mani Rimdu festival in the ninth Tibetan month (normally October or November), with whirling masked chaamdances and plenty of eating, drinking and making merry. The festival is expected to run as normal in 2015. See www.tengboche.orgfor dates and details.
修道院庭院是在藏历九月（通常是十月或十一月）举行的著名的玛尼顿珠节的场地，届时会有旋转的面具舞和大量的吃喝玩乐。该节日在 2015 年预计正常举行。查看 www.tengboche.org 以获取日期和详情。

Visitors are welcome to attend the daily puja (prayer) ceremonies at 6am and 3pm, but sit to the right so as not to interrupt the resident monks as they chant the scriptures. Wearing shoes or shorts, smoking and taking photos are all prohibited inside the monastery.
欢迎游客参加每天上午 6 点和下午 3 点的颂经（祈祷）仪式，但请坐在右侧，以免打扰正在诵经的常住僧侣。在寺院内禁止穿鞋或短裤、吸烟和拍照。

Day 5: Acclimatisation Day in Tengboche
第 5 天：在 Tengboche 的适应日

You will do much better in the high country if you spend another day acclimatising at Tengboche, though you could feasibly replace this with an alternative extra day in Thame or Khumjung, or a night in Pangboche. You can explore the monastery, climb the prayer-flag-strewn hill above the Hotel Himalayan or take a hike to the nunnery at Debuche.
如果你在 Tengboche 多花一天时间适应高海拔，你会在高地表现得更好，尽管你可以将其替换为在 Thame 或 Khumjung 再多待一天，或者在 Pangboche 过夜。你可以探索寺庙，攀登喜马拉雅酒店上方挂满经幡的山丘，或者徒步前往 Debuche 的尼姑庵。

Day 6: Tengboche to Pheriche
第六天：Tengboche 到 Pheriche

3½ hours / 70m descent / 450m ascent
3½ 小时 / 70 米下降 / 450 米上升

From Tengboche, follow the trail below the bakery through a lovely forest of dwarf conifers and rhododendrons, keeping an eye out for monal pheasants and musk deer. After 15 minutes the stone path reaches Debuche(3820m). There are several lodges here, but some were damaged in the quake so check locally to see which are currently operating. Before the disaster, the excellent Rivendell Lodge(%9803527894; www.khumburivendell.org; r with shared/private bathroom Rs300/3000)scored points for its hot showers and rooms with attached bathrooms and electric blankets. Also good were the smaller Everest Rhododendron Lodge, and ten minutes further along the track, the friendly Paradise Lodge, Ama Dablam Garden Lodge and fancy new Hotel Himalayan Culture Home, set in a copse of pines. 重试    错误原因

While you are here, drop into the Debuche Nunnery, which suffered some exterior damage in the earthquake but still has some impressive old thangkas (Buddhist paintings) and murals painted on wooden panels inside. Photos are allowed. The nunnery is beside the main track, near the chorten. 重试