Federica Cucchiella, University of L’Aquila, Italy Federica Cucchiella,意大利阿奎拉大学
REVIEWED BY
Narongsak Sukma,
Mahidol University, Thailand
Erfan Babaee Tirkolaee, University of Istinye, Türkiye 埃尔凡·巴巴伊·蒂尔科莱伊,伊斯坦布尔大学,土耳其
*CORRESPONDENCE
Eunkyoung Han,
® bird24@skku.edu
RECEIVED 08 January 2023
ACCEPTED 16 June 2023
PUBLISHED 23 June 2023
CITATION
Yu H, Ahn M and Han E (2023), Key driver of textile and apparel industry management: fashion brand ESG and brand reputation. 宇 H、安敏和韩 E(2023),纺织服装产业经营的关键驱动因素:时尚品牌 ESG 与品牌声誉。
Front. Environ. Sci. 11:1140004. doi: 10.3389/fenvs.2023.1140004
Key driver of textile and apparel industry management: fashion brand ESG and brand reputation
Heeseung Yu, Minhwan Ahn and Eunkyoung Han*Department of Media and Communication, Sungkyunkwan University, Seoul, Republic of Korea
Abstract
The aim of this study was to develop and validate multidimensional criteria that can be used to evaluate fashion brand ESG management. This research used both qualitative and quantitative research methods to derive multi-dimensional and wide-ranging questions that could help explain fashion brand ESG with a high level of detail. A Delphi study was conducted with a group of 30 professionals to derive the initial items for fashion brand ESG management, and these items were used to design a questionnaire that was then administered to 800 consumers. Based on the results of exploratory and confirmatory factor analysis, 13 items were used to construct the scale. Convergent and discriminant validity were also verified between the factors. Finally, it was confirmed that the items on the ESG practices scale significantly affected a fashion brand’s reputation and consumer intention to purchase that brand as mediated by reputation. The results of this research are expected to provide a theoretical framework for future ESG research that can help fashion brands achieve more effective ESG management and increase their reputation and sales. 目标是制定和验证可用于评估时装品牌 ESG 管理的多维标准。本研究采用定量和定性研究方法,以导出多维和广泛的问题,这些问题有助于解释具有高度细节的时装品牌 ESG。一项德尔菲研究与 30 位专业人士合作,以提取时装品牌 ESG 管理的初始项目,这些项目被用于设计一份问卷,然后分发给 800 位消费者。根据探索性和确认性因素分析的结果,13 项被用于构建量表。还验证了各因素之间的收敛效度和区分效度。最后,证实了 ESG 实践量表上的项目通过声誉对时装品牌的声誉和消费者购买意愿产生了显著影响。这项研究的结果有望为未来的 ESG 研究提供理论框架,帮助时装品牌实现更有效的 ESG 管理,并提高其声誉和销售额。
Environmental pollution is a significant global issue, and the fashion industry is assigned substantial blame for this problem. One reason for this is that apparel manufacturing requires enormous volumes of energy and water (Jia et al., 2020). Moreover, fast fashion-which involves continuously offering new styles at affordable prices-has greatly increased the amount of clothing produced and discarded; textile production now accounts for an estimated 20%20 \% of global water pollution (European Parliament, 2022). The fashion industry also accounts for up to 10%10 \% of global carbon dioxide emissions (Bloomberg, 2022). Further, it takes 2,700L2,700 \mathrm{~L} of water-the amount that the average person drinks in two and a half years-to make one cotton shirt (World Resources Institute, 2017). In response to these issues, the United Nations (UN) has launched the Alliance for Sustainable Fashion, and the European Union (EU) has announced its intention to end fast fashion by 2030. 环境污染是一个重大的全球性问题,时尚产业因其对这一问题的加剧而受到大量指责。其中一个原因是服装生产需要大量的能源和水(Jia 等人,2020)。此外,快时尚——即以可承受的价格持续提供新款服装——极大地增加了服装的生产和丢弃量;据估计,纺织品生产现在占全球水污染的 20%20 \% (欧洲议会,2022)。快时尚还占全球二氧化碳排放量的 10%10 \% (彭博社,2022)。此外,制作一件棉质衬衫需要 2,700L2,700 \mathrm{~L} 的水——相当于普通人在两年半内喝的水量(世界资源研究所,2017)。为了应对这些问题,联合国(UN)启动了“可持续时尚联盟”,欧盟(EU)也宣布将在 2030 年前结束快时尚。
This situation involving fast fashion is just one example of how the global economic development and industrialization that accelerated beginning in the late 20th century has led to the emergence of serious problems such as indiscriminate environmental destruction and pollution; widening inequality between countries, regions, and classes; deepening inequities in distribution; and the deterioration of overall human quality of life. As a separate development, the COVID-19 pandemic has led to rapid paradigm innovation and perspective shifts globally in all fields, including politics, the economy, society, culture, 该快速时尚例子只是 20 世纪末开始的全球经济发展和工业化进程加速导致出现严重问题的一个例子,如不加选择的環境破壞和污染;国家、地区和阶层之间加剧的不平等;分配不公加剧;以及整体人类生活质量下降。作为一个独立的发展,COVID-19 大流行导致全球所有领域,包括政治、经济、社会、文化和科技,的迅速范式创新和视角转变,
and education (OECD, 2020). Accordingly, there has been substantially increased interest in ESG practices that emphasize and respect corporate social, eco-friendly, ethical responsibility, and transparency worldwide (McKinsey, 2019). ESG emphasizes the importance of publicity, transparency, and accountability by combining these three nonfinancial elements and using them as a lens through which to view all areas of a company’s activities (Galbreath, 2013). With their focus on reducing carbon fuel emissions and building circular economies, ESG practices-which aim to strengthen corporate social contributions and establish transparent governance structures-are expected to become increasingly prominent characteristics of a firm (Ben-Amar et al., 2017; Sam-Jeong KPMG, 2020). ,并教育(经合组织,2020)。因此,全球范围内对强调和尊重企业社会责任、生态友好、道德责任和透明度的 ESG 实践的兴趣大幅增加(麦肯锡,2019)。ESG 强调融合这三个非财务要素并将其作为透镜来审视公司所有活动领域的公开性、透明度和问责制的重要性(Galbreath,2013)。预期 ESG 实践将成为公司日益突出的特征,其重点在于减少碳燃料排放和建设循环经济,旨在加强企业社会贡献并建立透明的治理结构(Ben-Amar 等人,2017 年;三星 KPMG,2020 年)。
When the concept of ESG was first proposed, there were concerns about its effects on corporate activity, disclosure, and R&D costs, but research continues to confirm that ESG has a positive effect in generating long-term profits, enhancing corporate value, and improving social reliability (Provasnek et al., 2017). For example, companies that obtain a high ESG evaluation index by engaging in voluntary and continuous ESG activities can implement sustainable management that produces clear social support and brand value, which are lacking among companies with low evaluation indices (Muñoz-Torres et al., 2018). Based on the results that have been obtained to this point, following ESG practices is currently recognized as a key driver of increased corporate value while ensuring sustainable management and company growth. 当 ESG 概念首次提出时,人们对其对企业活动、披露和研发成本的影响表示担忧,但研究持续证实 ESG 在创造长期利润、提升企业价值和提高社会信赖度方面具有积极作用(Provasnek 等人,2017)。例如,通过参与自愿和持续的 ESG 活动获得高 ESG 评估指数的公司可以实施可持续管理,从而产生明确的社会支持和品牌价值,而这在评估指数较低的公司中是缺乏的(Muñoz-Torres 等人,2018)。根据迄今为止获得的结果,遵循 ESG 实践目前被认为是提高企业价值并确保可持续管理和公司增长的关键驱动因素。
When judging the effects of ESG efforts, it is necessary to consider brand reputation, which has recently increased in both academic and practical importance. Brand reputation is a constant and universal type of company value evaluation that forms gradually and is built over time through sincere communication and trustbuilding with consumers (Davies et al., 2003). It is also a key strategy that is essential for sustainable management in helping companies maintain a good reputation while taking the lead in domestic and international markets by gaining an edge in good faith competition with other companies. This means that, brand reputation-in contrast to brand image-is a more long-term, permanent, authentic, and reliable concept that is a positive strategic element for corporate development (Dowling & Roberts, 2002). 当判断 ESG 努力的效果时,有必要考虑品牌声誉,它最近在学术和实际的重要性都有所提高。品牌声誉是一种持续且普遍的企业价值评估类型,它会随着时间的推移,通过与消费者真诚的沟通和信任建立而逐步形成(戴维斯等人,2003 年)。它也是可持续管理的关键策略,它可以帮助企业在保持良好声誉的同时,通过在善意竞争中领先于其他公司而占据优势地位。这意味着,与品牌形象相比,品牌声誉是一种更长期的、永久的、真实的和可靠的概念,它是企业发展的积极战略要素(唐林和罗伯茨,2002 年)。
In the context of the present work, brand reputation is expected to be closely related to following ESG practices in the pursuit of sustainable management and growth, which are the ultimate goals of a company. Continuous and sincere ESG management is expected to not only positively influence the brand reputation of a company but also induce favorable consumer intentions and actions through brand reputation as a mediator. This research focuses on the effects of ESG practices on brand reputation and consumers’ purchase intentions with a specific focus on fashion brands, for which ESG practices represent a particularly important aspect of sustainable management. 在本文的研究背景下,品牌声誉预计与追求可持续管理和增长的 ESG 实践密切相关,而可持续管理和增长是公司最终的目标。持续而真诚的 ESG 管理不仅有望对公司的品牌声誉产生积极影响,还能通过品牌声誉作为中介,激发消费者良好的意图和行动。本研究着重于 ESG 实践对品牌声誉和消费者购买意愿的影响,特别是针对时尚品牌,因为对于时尚品牌而言,ESG 实践是可持续管理中尤为重要的方面。
Fashion products are highly influenced by season and are sensitive to trends, and their performance is substantially affected by subjective evaluations and consumer word of mouth (Cachon and Swinney, 2011). Therefore, fashion companies must survive fierce market competition every season and respond to the demands of consumers through creative and aesthetic product development (Cataldi et al., 2010). This means that fashion brands with positive 时装产品受季节影响较大,对潮流敏感,其表现受主观评价和消费者口碑影响很大(Cachon 和 Swinney,2011 年)。因此,时装公司必须在每个季度都经受激烈的市场竞争,并通过创造性和审美的产品开发来满足消费者的需求(Cataldi 等,2010 年)。这意味着,拥有积极品牌形象、能够迅速响应市场需求并提供高质量产品的时装品牌更有可能在竞争中取得成功 (Hu et al., 2015)。
reputations are expected to gain advantages in terms of sales and management performance compared to brands without positive reputations. Because of this increased importance of brand reputation for fashion companies, along with the importance of corporate reliability and consumer preference, the strategic importance of ESG activities for sustainable management has generated substantial discussion in the global fashion industry over the past decade (DiBenedetto, 2017; Gupta, 2019; JiménezZarco, 2019; Gwilt, 2020). 随着对公司可靠性和消费者偏好的重视程度增加,在过去十年中,ESG 活动对可持续管理的战略重要性在全球时尚行业引起了广泛讨论(DiBenedetto,2017;Gupta,2019;JiménezZarco,2019;Gwilt,2020)。 由于品牌声誉与销售和管理绩效的提高预期相关,因此,与没有积极声誉的品牌相比,企业声誉预计将获得优势。
The need for sustainable supply chain management is being emphasized due to the increase in demand due to globalization and the increase in population, as well as concerns about the environment. Companies need a lot of tangible and intangible assets to operate sustainably (Sarkis et al., 2011), and having the ability to continuously supply necessary resources and adapt to changing circumstances is key to a business’s competitive advantage (Aytekin et al., 2022). Sustainable supply chain management, which is emphasized here, is the management and coordination of logistics, information and capital flows between companies in the supply chain while considering all the goals of economic, environmental and social aspects of sustainable development resulting from the needs of customers and stakeholders (Seuring and Müller, 2008; Aytekin et al., 2022). In addition, a study that proposed a practical decision-making model in consideration of existing performance indicators and theories on sustainable supply chain management (Aytekin et al., 2022) emphasized that sustainability and supply chain management are driven by the concepts of corporate governance, ethical principles, and “Stakeholder theory.” Reputation is defined as the cumulative and empirical evaluation of stakeholders formed over a long period of time (Han et al., 2020). Therefore, management considering the environment, society, and governance of a company and careful consideration of various stakeholders’ evaluations of it are important factors that have a great impact on the sustainability of a company. Thus, the value and main purpose of this research are to develop major items that affect fashion brands’ ESG management decisions at a statistical level by reflecting the opinions of various stakeholders, and statistically verify the impact on consumers’ purchase intentions through reputation, a cumulative and empirical evaluation of ESG. 由于全球化和人口增长导致的需求增加以及对环境的担忧,对可持续供应链管理的需求越来越受到重视。公司需要大量的有形和无形资产才能可持续运营(Sarkis 等人,2011 年),并且能够持续供应必要资源并适应不断变化的环境是企业竞争优势的关键(Aytekin 等人,2022 年)。这里强调的可持续供应链管理是在供应链中各公司之间对物流、信息和资本流进行管理和协调,同时考虑客户和利益相关者需求所产生的可持续发展经济、环境和社会各方面的目标(Seuring 和 Müller,2008 年;Aytekin 等人,2022 年)。 此外,一项基于现有绩效指标和可持续供应链管理理论提出实用的决策模型的研究(Aytekin 等人,2022 年)强调,可持续发展和供应链管理受公司治理、道德原则和“利益相关者理论”的概念驱动。声誉被定义为利益相关者在很长一段时间内形成的累积和实证评估(Han 等人,2020 年)。因此,注重企业环境、社会和治理的管理以及慎重考虑各利益相关者的评价是影响企业可持续发展的重中之重。因此,本研究的价值和主要目的是: 通过反映不同利益相关者的意见,在统计层面上开发影响时尚品牌 ESG 管理决策的主要因素,并通过 ESG 的累积和实证评价——声誉,统计验证对消费者购买意向的影响。
Academic and industrial actors currently agree on the importance and value of ESG practices, but detailed strategies and practical components necessary to incorporate ESG practices into business processes have yet to be properly developed. Because there is currently no scale that can measure the ESG practices of fashion brands, this research attempts to derive ESG practices that are suitable for fashion brands. ESG practices have an important influence on brand and corporate reputation, and they lead to purchasing behavior (Reputation Institute, 2021). The Reputation Institute (2021) reports on corporate, national, and regional reputations based on consumer surveys and media reports, and it recently added ESG to its corporate reputation measures; this institute uses a model called RepTrak to produce a reputation quotient and annually publishes the results. If this scale of fashion brand ESG practices significantly affects reputation and purchase intention, it can provide practical guidance for fashion brands to incorporate ESG activities and sustainable management, and therefore secure theoretical justification. With this background, the present work aims to derive effective practices for determining if ESG 实践对品牌和企业声誉有着重要影响,并引导购买行为(声誉研究所,2021)。声誉研究所(2021)基于消费者调查和媒体报道对公司、国家和地区声誉进行报告,最近将其声誉指标扩展到 ESG;该研究所使用名为 RepTrak 的模型生成声誉商数,并每年公布结果。如果这个时尚品牌 ESG 实践的量表对声誉和购买意愿有显著影响,它可以为时尚品牌融入 ESG 活动和可持续管理提供切实可行的指导,进而获得理论上的合理性。 这项工作旨在根据背景推断有效做法,以确定是否
a fashion brand is practicing ESG management through Delphi studies and verify the effects of fashion brands’ ESG practices on brand reputation and consumer purchase intention based on the derived items. 时尚品牌通过德尔菲法实践 ESG 管理,并根据得出结论验证时尚品牌 ESG 实践对其品牌声誉和消费者购买意向的影响。
To fulfill this research aim, this study combines qualitative and quantitative research methods. Qualitative research provides transparent and verifiable research designs and involves rigorous data collection and analysis procedures (Sukma & Leelasantitham, 2022). Prior studies examining management decisions in the textile industry have used a methodological combination of qualitative research and quantitative research that included expert group interviews. For example, the opinions of expert groups were collected in a study that proposed a decision-making model applying sustainable supply chain management by applying each tool according to statistical methods (Aytekin et al., 2022). Therefore, this research collected initial questions with which to evaluate fashion brand ESG management through the Delphi technique, which is a qualitative research method, then verified the collected questions through a quantitative research method with strict standards to secure their reliability and validity. This research used the following research procedures. 为了实现这一研究目标,本研究结合了定性研究和定量研究方法。定性研究提供了透明且可验证的研究设计,并包括严格的数据收集和分析程序(Sukma 和 Leelasantitham,2022 年)。先前研究管理纺织工业的决策时,使用了定性研究和定量研究的方法组合,其中包括专家小组访谈。例如,在一项提出决策模型以应用可持续供应链管理并根据统计方法应用每个工具的研究中,收集了专家小组的意见(Aytekin 等人,2022 年)。因此,本研究通过德尔菲法(一种定性研究方法)收集了初步问题,以评估时装品牌的 ESG 管理,然后通过具有严格标准的定量研究方法验证了收集的问题,以确保其可靠性和有效性。本研究使用了以下研究程序。
First, the ESG practices of fashion brands are derived through a Delphi process involving expert interviews. Next, we empirically verify the derived ESG practices scale. A general survey is administered using this scale, and the findings of that survey are used to analyze and verify the influence of ESG management on brand reputation and purchase intention. 首先,时尚品牌的 ESG 实践是通过涉及专家访谈的德尔菲法来推导的。接下来,我们根据经验验证推导出的 ESG 实践量表。使用该量表进行一般性调查,调查结果用于分析和验证 ESG 管理对品牌声誉和购买意向的影响。
2 Literature review
2.1 Fashion brands and ESG management
With the COVID-19 outbreak, domestic and foreign companies suffered serious crises and chaos, including sudden shutdowns, infections and quarantine of employees, cross-border lockdowns, and the collapse of global supply chains. This has caused domestic and foreign companies to seriously consider future strategies and self-rescue measures for corporate survival, such as sustainable management, seeking coexistence with communities, communicating with consumers, and co-creation (Broadstock et al., 2021). Therefore, many companies have recently pushed for system reestablishment based on ESG practices (Brogi & Lagasio, 2019). In this context, ESG management and practices are expected to produce massive innovation and qualitative transformation in corporate culture in the future (Holden et al. 2017). Further, as the strategic value and influence of practicing ESG management in the global market expands and consumer demand keeps growing, international organizations and related ministries in major countries are obliged to reflect ESG activities in their corporate evaluations; individual industries should also present specific guidelines for ESG management (Clementino & Perkins, 2021). 国内外企业在疫情爆发的情况下,遭受了严重的危机和混乱,包括突如其来的停工停产、员工感染和隔离、跨境封锁以及全球供应链的崩溃。这使得国内外企业认真考虑未来的策略和企业生存的自救措施,如可持续经营、寻求与社区共存、与消费者沟通、共同创造(Broadstock 等,2021)。因此,许多公司最近都在推行基于 ESG 实践的制度重建(Brogi & Lagasio,2019)。在这样的背景下,预计 ESG 管理和实践将在未来给企业文化带来巨大的创新和质的转变(Holden 等。2017)。此外,随着 ESG 管理实践在全球市场中的战略价值和影响力不断扩大,以及消费者需求的不断增长,国际组织和主要国家的相关部委不得不将 ESG 活动纳入其企业评价;各行业也应提出 ESG 管理的具体指引(Clementino & Perkins,2021)。
ESG practices are increasingly being emphasized in all industries, including fashion, and it has recently been emphasized in both investments and production. Eco-friendly and ethical companies that make prosocial contributions and that have secured sustainable growth engines through ESG management ESG 实践在包括服装在内的所有行业中越来越受到重视,近年来在投资和生产中都得到强调。通过 ESG 管理确保可持续增长引擎的生态友好型和道德型企业,为社会做出积极贡献。
will also have high investment value and stability, and countries in the United States and Europe are strengthening their socially responsible investment (SRI) strategies to focus on investing in companies with high ESG ratings (Van Duuren et al., 2016; AmelZadeh & Serafeim, 2018). In an analysis of the correlations between ESG activities and corporate financial performance after the 1970s for 2,000 companies around the world, Friede et al. (2015) found a positive correlation for 63%63 \% of the analyzed companies. In another study, Alareeni and Hamdan (2020) verified that there was a significant correlation between ESG activity and financial performance among 500 US S&P companies. 将 ESG 评级高的公司视为具有高投资价值和稳定性,美国和欧洲的国家正在加强其社会责任投资 (SRI) 策略,以重点投资于 ESG 评级高的公司 (Van Duuren 等人,2016;Amel-Zadeh 和 Serafeim,2018)。在对 20 世纪 70 年代之后全球 2000 家公司的 ESG 活动与公司财务绩效之间的关联进行分析后,Friede 等人 (2015) 发现分析的公司中 63%63 \% % 存在正相关。在另一项研究中,Alareeni 和 Hamdan (2020) 证实,在 500 家美国标准普尔公司中,ESG 活动与财务绩效之间存在显着关联。
Companies with strong sustainable management, growth capabilities, and resources can easily attract consumers and investors seeking sustainable or socially responsible investments. They can also experience enhanced brand reliability-and, in turn, reputation-which increases loyalty among consumers and investors. It is therefore expected that companies that do not actively engage in ESG will not be able to attract domestic and foreign investment in the future, thus falling behind in global competition. As the effect or value of ESG practices is bound to continue increase in the future, this study aims to analyze the effects of fashion brands’ ESG practices on brand reputation and consumer purchase intention. 具有强大的可持续管理、增长能力和资源的公司可以轻松吸引寻求可持续或社会责任投资的消费者和投资者。 他们还可以体验到更高的品牌可靠性,从而提高消费者和投资者的忠诚度。 因此,预计未来未积极参与 ESG 的公司将无法吸引国内外投资,从而在全球竞争中落后。 由于 ESG 实践的影响或价值必将在未来持续增加,本研究旨在分析时尚品牌 ESG 实践对品牌声誉和消费者购买意愿的影响。
Global fashion companies are already promoting and expanding ESG strategies such as increasing the production of recycled polyester materials, increasing the production of vegan materials to replace the use of animal products, strengthening eco-friendly dyeing techniques, and increasing the production of eco-friendly materials and packaging (Choi, 2021). With these efforts, the share of recycled polyester in the global market increased from 11%11 \% in 2010 to 15% in 2020 (Textile Exchange, 2021). Moreover, the global upcycling market grew 16.6%16.6 \% from $150\$ 150 million in 2014 to $170\$ 170 million in 2020, and the domestic upcycling market in Korea also increased by 60%60 \% from 2.5 billion won to 4 billion won over the same period (Ko, 2021). 全球时尚公司已经在推广和扩展 ESG 策略,例如增加再生聚酯材料的生产,增加素食材料的生产以替代动物产品的使用,加强环保染色技术,以及增加环保材料和包装的生产(参考 2021 年崔的资料)。通过这些努力,再生聚酯在全球市场中的份额从 2010 年的 11%11 \% 增加到 2020 年的 15%(参考 2021 年纺织品交易所的数据)。此外,全球升级改造市场规模 16.6%16.6 \% 从 2014 年的 $150\$ 150 百万增长到 2020 年的 $170\$ 170 百万,同期韩国国内升级改造市场也 60%60 \% 从 25 亿韩元增长到 40 亿韩元(参考 2021 年高氏的资料)。
ESG management is emerging as a key strategy for fashion companies aiming to expand the sustainability of operations, making social contributions, and creating common value and satisfaction for consumers. However, it must be noted that the three dimensions of ESG carry different weights under different circumstances; companies initiating ESG-guided operations will experiment with and modify strategies until they achieve a harmonious and stable mix that is sustainable over time. 作为时装公司扩大运营可持续性、做出社会贡献并为消费者创造共同价值和满意度的关键战略,ESG 管理正日益受到关注。然而,必须注意的是,ESG 的三个维度在不同情况下具有不同的权重;启动 ESG 指导运营的公司将尝试和修改策略,直到它们实现可持续的、稳定的混合。
2.2 Fashion brand ESG practices, reputation, and purchase intention
ESG practices are emerging as the best strategy for fashion companies to use to improve their reputations, particularly in light of the recent green consumer movement. Researchers have well established that a having a high brand reputation and value promote positive consumer responses such as purchase intention, satisfaction, and loyalty (Engel & Blackwell, 1990; Mosler et al., 2008). Brand image and reputation are particularly important in the fashion industry, which is largely driven by word-of-mouth publicity among consumers; reputation has a more direct impact on corporate performance in the fashion industry than it does in other industries ESG 实践逐渐成为时装公司提高声誉的最佳策略,尤其是在近期绿色消费运动的背景下。研究人员已经充分确立,拥有较高的品牌声誉和价值会促进积极的消费者反应,例如购买意愿、满意度和忠诚度 (Engel & Blackwell, 1990; Mosler 等,2008)。品牌形象和声誉在时尚行业尤为重要,该行业在很大程度上受到消费者之间的口碑宣传的驱动;声誉对时尚行业的企业绩效的影响比对其他行业的企业绩效的影响更为直接。
(Kwon, 2022). It is therefore expected that fashion brands that incorporate ESG practices in their operations will see improvements in their reputations that actively induce consumer purchase intentions. The theoretical bases for this proposition are as follows. (Kwon, 2022)。因此,预期将 ESG 实践纳入运营的时尚品牌将在声誉方面取得进步,从而积极地引发消费者购买意图。该命题的理论依据如下。
First, among the analyses of the relationships between ESG activities and brand reputation and value, Jukemura (2019) identified that companies with excellent ESG activities secure greater competitive advantages through their better brand reputations, which in turn increase consumer confidence. McKinsey (2019) reported that a company’s ESG activities significantly affect their brand assets and value in addition to positively affecting financial performance. Giese et al. (2019) found that companies that actively engage in ESG generate increased profits through more efficient resource utilization and organization management, which increases consumers’ preferences for such companies and thus expands their competitive advantage. Muñoz-Torres et al. (2018) found that ESG activities significantly affect consumer social support and induce larger-scale socially responsible investment, which drives sustainable management over time. 首先,在对 ESG 活动与品牌声誉和价值之间关系的分析中,Jukemura (2019) 指出,ESG 活动出色的公司通过更好的品牌声誉获得更大的竞争优势,进而提高消费者信心。麦肯锡 (2019) 报告称,除了对财务绩效产生积极影响外,公司的 ESG 活动还对其品牌资产和价值产生重大影响。Giese 等人 (2019) 发现,积极参与 ESG 的公司通过更有效地利用资源和组织管理来增加利润,从而提高消费者对这些公司的偏好,进而扩大其竞争优势。Muñoz-Torres 等人 (2018) 发现,ESG 活动显着影响消费者社会支持,并诱导更大规模的社会责任投资,从而推动可持续管理。
Next, researchers examining the relationship between brand reputation and purchase intention have again confirmed that active engagement in ESG and corporate social responsibility (CSR) practices and other desirable management activities has significant positive effects on consumers’ purchasing intentions (Engel & Blackwell, 1990; Brown & Dacin, 1997; Han and Yu, 2004; Mosler et al., 2008). Engel and Blackwell (1990) confirmed that corporate reputation is an important factor in competitiveness that actively promotes purchase intentions, while Brown and Dacin (1997) confirmed that the positive corporate image and brand reputation generated from engaging in CSR activities lead to positive product evaluations and purchase intentions among consumers. 接下来,研究人员考察了品牌声誉和购买意愿之间的关系,再次确认积极参与 ESG 和企业社会责任 (CSR) 实践以及其他可取的管理活动对消费者的购买意愿具有显著的积极影响(Engel & Blackwell,1990;Brown & Dacin,1997;Han and Yu,2004;Mosler et al.,2008)。Engel 和 Blackwell (1990) 证实,企业声誉是积极促进购买意愿的竞争力的重要因素,而 Brown 和 Dacin (1997) 证实,参与 CSR 活动产生的积极企业形象和品牌声誉会导致消费者对产品的积极评价和购买意愿.
Ji and Seo (2021) detailed that a company’s continuous ESG activities promote positive purchase intentions by narrowing the psychological distance between consumers and companies, therefore enhancing intimacy and bonding. Han and Yu (2004) stated that corporate reputation is a more expansive concept than corporate or brand image, and they found that corporate reputation significantly affected purchase intention. Choi, Yoo, and Kwon (2011) also reported that Starbucks’ corporate reputation and social connection had positive effects on consumers’ purchase intentions. ESG 活动能缩小消费者与企业之间的“心理距离”,提升亲密感和 gắn bó,进而促进正面购买意图。企业声誉比企业或品牌形象更廣泛,並且企业声誉显著影响购买意图。星巴克的企业声誉和社会联结对消费者购买意图也产生了积极影响。
3 Method
3.1 Research model and hypotheses
Based on the prospects and problems described in the literature review, this research intends to derive the ESG practices that are most applicable to fashion brands. This research is expected to have significant implications for fashion brands that in the initial stages of incorporating an ESG strategy across the entire industry as well as providing a scale that existing firms that practice ESG can use to measure their success. The measurement scale developed in this work is also expected to provide a theoretical framework for academic research related to ESG management and practices. 基于文献综述中描述的展望和问题,本研究旨在推导出最适用于时尚品牌的 ESG 实践。预计本研究将对处于 ESG 战略初始阶段的时尚品牌具有重要意义,同时为现有 ESG 实践企业提供衡量其成功的尺度。本研究开发的测量尺度也预计将为与 ESG 管理和实践相关的学术研究提供理论框架。
The guiding research questions of the study that were used to develop the scale were as follows.
Research question 1. (RQ1): What practices should a scale for measuring a fashion brand’s compliance with ESG management standards include? 时尚品牌 ESG 管理标准合规性评估指标体系研究。 RQ1: 衡量时尚品牌 ESG 管理标准合规性的量表应包含哪些内容?
RQ2: Does the newly developed scale demonstrate convergent validity?
RQ3: Does the newly developed scale demonstrate discriminant validity?
Further, the results discussed in the literature review confirm that company ESG and CSR activities significantly affect brand reputation and consumer purchase intention, but there have notably been no studies examining this relationship in the fashion industry in particular. Therefore, the aim of this research was to investigate the effect of fashion brands’ ESG activities on their brand reputations and on consumer purchase intention using the fashion brand ESG practices scale that were newly developed in this research. Figure 1 presents the research model used in this work. We proposed the following hypotheses to investigate the relationships of interest in this research. 此外,文献综述中讨论的结果证实,公司的 ESG 和 CSR 活动对品牌声誉和消费者购买意向有显著影响,但值得注意的是,还没有研究专门考察这种关系在时尚行业的具体情况。因此,本研究的目的是调查时尚品牌 ESG 活动对其品牌声誉和消费者购买意向的影响,使用本研究新开发的时尚品牌 ESG 实践量表。图 1 展示了本工作中使用的研究模型。我们提出了以下假设来研究本研究中感兴趣的关系。
Hypothesis 1. (H1): Fashion brand ESG practices will have a positive effect on purchase intention.
H1-1: Fashion brand environmental practices will have a positive effect on purchase intention.
H1-2: Fashion brand social practices will have a positive effect on purchase intention.
H1-3: Fashion brand governance practices will have a positive effect on purchase intention.
H2: The effect of fashion brand ESG practices on purchase intention will be mediated by brand reputation. 时装品牌 ESG 实践对购买意愿的影响将由品牌声誉所调节。
H2-1: The effect of fashion brand environmental practices on purchase intention will be mediated by brand reputation. H2-1:品牌环境实践对消费者购买意愿的影响将由其品牌声誉所中介。
H2-2: The effect of fashion brand social practices on purchase intention will be mediated by brand reputation. H2-2 时尚品牌社会实践对购买意愿的影响将受到品牌声誉的调节。
H2-3: The effect of fashion brand governance practices on purchase intention will be mediated by brand reputation. H2-3:品牌治理实践对购买意愿的影响将受到品牌声誉的中介作用。
3.2 Research process
The purpose of this study was to derive and verify the accuracy of measurement items regarding the ESG practices of fashion brands using both qualitative and quantitative methods. To this end, a (qualitative) Delphi study was conducted with a group of 30 fashion industry experts: fashion CEOs, employees, related academic professors, and graduate students. The experts/survey subjects were limited to people who responded that they knew about ESG and that they purchased fashion items more than two to three times a month. The initial items were extracted from the existing literature, and two surveys were administered to 400 general consumers each for exploratory and confirmatory factor analysis (EFA and CFA, respectively). Figure 2 depicts the research procedure followed in this study. 本研究的目的是利用定量和定性方法来推导出和验证与服装品牌 ESG 实践相关的测量项目的准确性。为此,我们对一群由 30 位时尚行业专家(包括时装公司 CEO、员工、相关学术教授和研究生)进行了(定性)德尔菲研究。专家/调查对象仅限于那些回答说他们了解 ESG 并且每月购买时尚商品超过两到三次的人。初始条目来自现有文献,并分别对 400 名普通消费者进行了两次调查,以进行探索性因素分析 (EFA) 和验证性因素分析 (CFA)。图 2 描绘了本研究中遵循的研究程序。
3.2.1 The Delphi technique
A Delphi study involves meetings conducted with panels of experts and/or close stakeholders with professional experience and 一个 Delphi 研究包括与专家小组和/或具有专业经验和对主题有深入了解的密切利益相关者进行的会议
Fashion brand ESG
FIGURE 1
Research model.
FIGURE 2
Research process of this study.
knowledge; material is submitted for the group to review, such as the potential ESG scale items in this study. The opinions of the group members are collected, and survey rounds are repeated until a consensus is reached (Yu & Han, 2021). 知识;材料提交给小组进行审查,例如本研究中潜在的 ESG 量化指标。收集小组成员的意见,并重复进行调查,直到达成一致意见(Yu & Han,2021)。
The Delphi survey was conducted here with the exploratory purpose of identifying the components of ESG management for fashion brands. Qualitative research methods using in-depth interviews and focused group interviews were used to collect the initial preliminary questions through the Delphi surveys. The specific process we used is as follows. 德尔福调查在这里进行,目的是探索性地确定时装品牌的 ESG 管理要素。定性研究方法采用深度访谈和焦点小组访谈,通过德尔福调查收集初步问题。我们使用的具体过程如下。
First, items that can evaluate fashion brand ESG management were collected based on previous studies that were gathered in the 首先,根据之前收集的研究,收集了可以评估时尚品牌 ESG 管理的项目,这些研究收集在
literature review. Moreover, a group of fashion brand experts was formed to collect opinions using in-depth interviews and questionnaires. The expert panel for conducting the Delphi survey was composed of 30 people, including industry workers such as fashion brand marketing managers, magazine editors, CEOs, related academic professors, graduate students, and fashion brand consumers. An interview was conducted with this group of experts while focusing on the best practices as well as pros and cons of fashion brand ESG management, and based on the results of these interviews, we attempted to understand what subconcepts fashion brand ESG is composed of and what subconcepts can be measured with. 时装品牌环境、社会和治理 (ESG) 管理最佳实践的文献综述。此外,成立了一个时装品牌专家小组,通过深度访谈和问卷调查收集意见。进行德尔菲调查的专家小组由 30 人组成,包括时装品牌营销经理、杂志编辑、首席执行官、相关学术教授、研究生和时装品牌消费者等业内人士。对该专家小组进行了访谈,重点关注时装品牌 ESG 管理的最佳实践以及优缺点,并根据访谈结果,试图了解时装品牌 ESG 包含哪些子概念以及可以衡量哪些子概念。
Second, among the collected questions, items that were judged to have overlapping contents or low explanatory power were removed. 其次,在收集的问题中,删除了被认为内容重叠或解释力低的项目。
Third, the appropriateness of the initial questions derived for fashion brand consumers and expert groups was evaluated along a 7 point Likert scale ( 1=1= very inadequate, 7=7= very appropriate )). Further, descriptive questions were added so that the participants could freely express their opinions on the fashion brand ESG. 第三,对针对时装品牌消费者和专家组提出的初始问题的适当性进行了评估,采用 7 点李克特量表( 1=1= 非常不恰当, 7=7= 非常恰当, )) 等)。此外,还增加了描述性问题,以便参与者可以自由地表达他们对时装品牌 ESG 的意见。
Fourth, to verify the appropriateness of the items, a pre-survey was conducted three times while removing items whose average value, Content Validity Ration (CVR), and coefficient of variation did not meet the standard. CVR is the value obtained by subtracting half the total number of respondents (30//2=15)(30 / 2=15) from the total number of cases ( 7 -point Likert scale: more than 5 points) that responded as “valid”, then dividing it by half of the total number of respondents (Lawshe, 1975). It is a value indicating the degree of agreement of the expert panel on given concepts and factors. CVR has a difference in the minimum value that is used to obtain agreement depending on the number of expert panels. Since the number of panels in the expert group in this study is 30 , CVR 0.33 was set as the minimum value standard 1 (Lawshe, 1975; Yu & Han, 2021). 第四,为了验证项目的适当性,进行了三次预调查,同时删除了平均值、内容效度比率 (CVR) 和变异系数不符合标准的项目。CVR 是将 7 分李克特量表中对“有效”做出响应的案例总数减去受访者总数的一半后 (30//2=15)(30 / 2=15) 得到的值,然后除以受访者总数的一半(Lawshe,1975)。它是一个值,表明专家小组对给定概念和因素的一致程度。CVR 在用于获得一致性的最小值方面存在差异,具体取决于专家小组的数量。由于本研究中专家组的小组数量为 30,因此将 CVR (30//2=15)(30 / 2=15) .33 设为最小值标准 1(Lawshe,1975;Yu & Han,2021)。
3.2.2 Consumer survey
The resulting scale was then administered online to consumers aged from 20 to 59 years old who purchased fashion items at least twice a month and often searched for fashion brands. In total, data from a total of 800 surveys were collected, and these were analyzed quantitatively. 结果量表通过网络方式发放给 20 至 59 岁的消费者,这些消费者每月至少购买两次时尚商品,并经常搜索时尚品牌。 调查总共收集了 800 份数据,并进行定量分析。
The first survey was administered to conduct an EFA of the Delphi group’s scale. In total, 400 respondents rated each survey item regarding the importance of each ESG practice for a fashion brand along a 7 -point Likert scale. The items on the second survey were extracted from the EFA after removing items that did not meet their thresholds. 通过对德尔菲小组的量表进行探索性因子分析,对 400 名受访者进行了第一次调查。受访者根据 7 分李克特量表对每个调查项目的评级,考察了每个 ESG 实践对时尚品牌的重要性。第二次调查的项目是从探索性因子分析中提取的,剔除了不符合指标的项目。
The second consumer survey was administered to conduct a CFA of the revised survey and measure the relationship between the fashion brand ESG practices scale, a brand’s reputation, and consumer purchase intention. The participants were 400 consumers aged from 20 to 59 years old who purchase fashion items more than twice a month and who regularly search for fashion brands. In this study, to determine whether the fashion brand ESG practices were significantly related with the brand’s reputation, respondents were asked to list at least three fashion brands that they believed were best practices for ESG management based on the items on the first consumer survey fashion brand ESG practices scale. Next, the reputation (Dowling, 2001; 2004a; 2004b) and purchase intention (Mackenzie & Lutz, 1989) of the names fashion brands were rated using a 7 -point Likert scale. 第二次消费者调查旨在对修订后的调查进行确认性因素分析,并测量时尚品牌 ESG 实践规模、品牌声誉和消费者购买意愿之间的关系。参与者为 400 名年龄在 20 至 59 岁之间的消费者,他们每月至少购买两次时尚商品,并定期搜索时尚品牌。在本研究中,为了确定时尚品牌 ESG 实践与品牌声誉之间是否存在显著相关性,我们要求受访者根据第一次消费者调查中时尚品牌 ESG 实践量表上的项目,列出至少三个他们认为在 ESG 管理方面表现最佳的时尚品牌。接下来,我们使用 7 点李克特量表对所列举的时尚品牌的声誉(Dowling,2001;2004a;2004b)和购买意愿(Mackenzie & Lutz,1989)进行了评估。
Then, the SPSS process macro was used to analyze the influence of fashion brand ESG practices on purchase intention as well as the mediating effect of reputation based on these consumers’ survey responses. Hayes’s process macro (2013) is an analysis method that can reflect a phenomenon without assuming a normal distribution and that measures the significance of mediators. It can both accurately calculate indirect effects and analyzing the significance of the effects to be measured without requiring additional processing by verifying the direct and indirect effects in regression analysis (Hayes, 那么,使用 SPSS 过程宏分析了时尚品牌 ESG 实践对购买意向以及声誉的中介作用的影响,这些数据基于消费者的调查问卷。Hayes 过程宏(2013)是一种分析方法,它可以反映一个现象,而不需要假设正态分布,并且可以衡量中介变量的重要性。它既可以准确计算间接效应,又可以分析要测量的效应的显著性,而不需要在回归分析中验证直接效应和间接效应,从而进行额外的处理(Hayes,
2013). Model 4 of the SPSS process macro was used to evaluate the direct, indirect, and total effects. To verify a mediating effect, it is necessary to check whether the size of the indirect effect-which verifies the significance of the mediating effect through bootstrapping-is statistically significant (Preacher & Hayes, 2008). Specifically, if the upper limit CI of the indirect effect calculated at the 95%95 \% CI does not include 0 , then the estimated size of the indirect effect is considered to be statistically significant (Hayes, 2013; Hayes & Preacher, 2014). 2013)。 该研究采用 SPSS 过程宏的模型 4 评估直接、间接和总效应。 为了验证中介效应,有必要检验间接效应的大小,即通过引导检验验证中介效应的显著性(Preacher & Hayes,2008)。 具体而言,如果在 95%95 \% CI 下计算的间接效应的上限 CI 不包含 95%95 \%,则认为间接效应的估计大小具有统计学意义(Hayes,2013;Hayes & Preacher,2014)。
4. Results
4.1 The Delphi technique
Given RQ1 involving the most effective items for measuring a fashion brand’s ESG practices, the first step in this study was to derive a starting point for those practices. First, the literature review obtained 107 measurement items for the questionnaire that was developed for the Delphi round. The group removed items with similar meanings and duplicate items, then rated the remaining items for importance, which was again done on 7-point Likert scales. The experts ultimately arrived at 50 initial items, which included the addition of some new items. 鉴于 RQ1 涉及衡量时尚品牌 ESG 实践的最有效项目,本研究的第一步是为此类实践制定一个起点。首先,文献综述获得了 107 个测量项目,用于为德尔菲回合开发的问卷。该小组删除了具有相似含义和重复的项目,然后对剩余项目的 важность 进行了评分,这同样是在 7 点李克特量表上完成的。专家最终确定了 50 个初始项目,其中包括添加了一些新的项目。
Following the Delphi study round, Lawshe’s (1975) content validity ratio (CVR) was calculated for each item, and 10 items that did not meet the threshold of 0.33 were removed. CVR is calculated by subtracting half the total number of respondents from the number of cases (here scale items) rated as valid (i.e., which had a Likert scale score of 5 or more), then dividing that result by half the total number of respondents (Lawshe, 1975; Yu & Han, 2021). Next, SPSS (IBM SPSS Inc.) was used to calculate the coefficient of variation (CV) and Cronbach’s alpha for each of the remaining 40 items, and items that exceeded a CV of 0.3 were discarded. This ultimately left 30 survey items. 根据德尔福调查,计算了每个项目的法谢(1975)内容效度比率(CVR),并删除了 10 个不满足 0.33 阈值的项目。CVR 的计算方法是:从评定为有效的分数(即,利克特量表分数为 5 或更高)的案例(此处为量表项目)数量中减去一半的受访者总数,然后将该结果除以一半的受访者总数(Lawshe,1975;Yu & Han,2021)。接下来,使用 SPSS(IBM SPSS Inc.)计算剩余 40 个项目中的每个项目的变异系数(CV)和 Cronbach’s alpha,并剔除超过 0.3 的 CV 项目。这最终剩下 30 个调查项目。
4.2 Exploratory factor analysis
For each of the 30 items extracted from the Delphi study and revisions, Cronbach’s alpha was calculated to measure the reliability of the items for accurately measuring a fashion brand’s ESG activities; a Cronbach’s alpha of .7 is considered to be adequate. For the EFA to extract factors, promax rotation-which maintains the correlation without assuming that there is no correlation between factors-was used. Only items with a factor loading of at least 0.4 and an eigenvalue > 1>1 or more were retained for the final scale. For each of the 30 items extracted from the Delphi study and revisions, Cronbach's alpha was calculated to measure the reliability of the items for accurately measuring a fashion brand's ESG activities; a Cronbach's alpha of .7 is considered to be adequate. For the EFA to extract factors, promax rotation-which maintains the correlation without assuming that there is no correlation between factors-was used. Only items with a factor loading of at least > 1>1 .4 and an eigenvalue > 1>1 .4}} or more were retained for the final scale.
The EFA left 13 items under the three factors of environment, social, and governance. The results of the Kaiser-Meyer-Olkin test, which indicates the appropriateness of the data standardization, was 0.921 , while Bartlett’s sphericity was found to be significant ( chi2=\chi 2= 2487.056, p < 0.001p<0.001 ). Cronbach’s alpha\alpha for all three factors exceeded the 0.7 threshold: environment, 0.868 ; social, 0.821 ; and governance, 0.820 . The overall explanatory power for ESG was 55%55 \%, while Cronbach’s a for the full scale was 0.907 , thus indicating the reliability of the scale. The 13 survey items that were extracted The EFA 遗留了 13 项,这些项目属于环境、社会和治理这三个因素。Kaiser-Meyer-Olkin 检验的结果表明数据标准化是合适的,结果为 chi2=\chi 2= .921,而 Bartlett 球形度检验结果则显著( chi2=\chi 2= 2487.056, p < 0.001p<0.001 )。所有三个因素的 Cronbach’s alpha\alpha 都超过了 chi2=\chi 2= .7 的阈值:环境, chi2=\chi 2= .868;社会, chi2=\chi 2= .821;和治理, chi2=\chi 2= .820。ESG 的总体解释力为 55%55 \% ,而整个量表的 Cronbach’s a 为 chi2=\chi 2= .907,因此表明量表的可靠性。提取的 13 个调查项目
Manufactures products made with fibers upcycled from recycled waste products such as plastics
. 684
Recycles discarded items and waste
. 610
Collects expired products and makes new ones
. 494
Does not use animal materials such as leather or fur
. 774
Implements a certification program to monitor potential animal abuse in the production process
. 707
Focuses on gender diversity and equality
. 684
Donates a portion of sales to environmental organizations
. 655
Implements effective management through consultations with experts in each field
. 774
Has a consistent brand identity
. 747
Continuously manages the CEO's reputation
. 641
Provides excellent customer service
. 634
Rotation sums of squared loadings
4.744
4.572
4.461
Variance explained (%)
44.302
6.631
4.877
Variance cumulated (%)
44.302
50.934
55.810
Cronbach's a by factor
0.868
0.821
. 0820
Total Cronbach's a
0.907
Factor
Environment Social Governance
Develops eco-friendly materials . 903
Uses eco-friendly materials . 823
Manufactures products made with fibers upcycled from recycled waste products such as plastics . 684
Recycles discarded items and waste . 610
Collects expired products and makes new ones . 494
Does not use animal materials such as leather or fur . 774
Implements a certification program to monitor potential animal abuse in the production process . 707
Focuses on gender diversity and equality . 684
Donates a portion of sales to environmental organizations . 655
Implements effective management through consultations with experts in each field . 774
Has a consistent brand identity . 747
Continuously manages the CEO's reputation . 641
Provides excellent customer service . 634
Rotation sums of squared loadings 4.744 4.572 4.461
Variance explained (%) 44.302 6.631 4.877
Variance cumulated (%) 44.302 50.934 55.810
Cronbach's a by factor 0.868 0.821 . 0820
Total Cronbach's a 0.907 | | Factor | | |
| :---: | :---: | :---: | :---: |
| | Environment | Social | Governance |
| Develops eco-friendly materials | . 903 | | |
| Uses eco-friendly materials | . 823 | | |
| Manufactures products made with fibers upcycled from recycled waste products such as plastics | . 684 | | |
| Recycles discarded items and waste | . 610 | | |
| Collects expired products and makes new ones | . 494 | | |
| Does not use animal materials such as leather or fur | | . 774 | |
| Implements a certification program to monitor potential animal abuse in the production process | | . 707 | |
| Focuses on gender diversity and equality | | . 684 | |
| Donates a portion of sales to environmental organizations | | . 655 | |
| Implements effective management through consultations with experts in each field | | | . 774 |
| Has a consistent brand identity | | | . 747 |
| Continuously manages the CEO's reputation | | | . 641 |
| Provides excellent customer service | | | . 634 |
| Rotation sums of squared loadings | 4.744 | 4.572 | 4.461 |
| Variance explained (%) | 44.302 | 6.631 | 4.877 |
| Variance cumulated (%) | 44.302 | 50.934 | 55.810 |
| Cronbach's a by factor | 0.868 | 0.821 | . 0820 |
| Total Cronbach's a | | 0.907 | |
represent the response to RQ1 for this study: What items comprise an effective measurement scale for the ESG practices of a fashion brand? Table 1 lists the scale items that resulted from the EFA along with their individual factor loadings. 作为本研究对 RQ1 的回应:哪些指标组成了一个有效衡量时尚品牌 ESG 实践的量表?表 1 列出了 EFA 生成的量表项目及其各自的因子载荷。
4.3 Confirmatory factor analysis
For the CFA, each factor extracted from the EFA was input as a latent variable, and each measurement item was input as an observation variable to construct a measurement model, after which the model fit could be measured. The CFA produced chi2=\chi 2= 177.723 ( df=62,p=0.000\mathrm{df}=62, p=0.000 ). In general, when the sample is sufficiently large ( 200 or more), a threshold of p < 0.05p<0.05 is indicated, and the chi^(2)\chi^{2} fitness test result rejects the null hypothesis that a model is appropriate. However, if there is a sufficient sample, then the p for chi^(2)\chi^{2} is 0.000 ; in this case, if the null hypothesis is rejected, the model fit is not considered to be unacceptable. Instead, there is considered to be a significant difference and it is necessary to check whether the other fitness criteria are met (Yu & Han, 2021). For this study, adjusted goodness-of-fit index (AGFI), goodness-of-fit index (GFI), and root mean square error of approximation (RMSEA) were the absolute fit indices, while the Tucker-Lewis index (TLI) and the comparative fit index (CFI) were the calculated incremental fit indices. Four models were tested for fit, and 对于 CFA,将从 EFA 中提取的每个因素作为潜变量输入,将每个测量项目作为观察变量输入,构建一个测量模型,然后可以对其进行拟合度评价。CFA 生成了 $ chi2=\chi 2= $ 177.723 ( $ df=62,p=0.000\mathrm{df}=62, p=0.000 $ ) 的拟合度指标。一般来说,当样本量足够大(200 或更多)时, $ p < 0.05p<0.05 $ 的标准值是合适的,并且 $ chi^(2)\chi^{2} $ 拟合度检验会拒绝原假设,认为模型拟合度良好。但是,如果样本量足够,那么 $ chi^(2)\chi^{2} $ 的 p 值为 chi2=\chi 2= .000;在这种情况下,如果原假设被拒绝,则无法认为模型拟合度不可接受。相反,应该认为存在显著差异,需要判断其他拟合度指标是否满足要求(余清,韩春旭,2021)。本研究选取了调整后的优度拟合指数(AGFI)、优度拟合指数(GFI)和均方根误差近似值(RMSEA)进行绝对拟合度,并选取了 tucker—lewis 指数(TLI)和比较适切系数(CFI)进行增量拟合度评估。测试了 chi^(2)\chi^{2} 个模型,包括:
Table 2 presents the threshold for each index along with the indices for each tested model.
4.4 Convergent validity of fashion brand ESG practices scale
To answer RQ2, composite reliability (CR) and average variance extracted (AVE) were calculated to verify the convergent validity of each scale factor; CR should be >= 0.7\geq 0.7 and AVE should equal or exceed 0.5 . As presented in Table 3, for the scale to measure a fashion brand’s ESG practices, CR ranged from 0.785 to 0.834 whereas AVE was either 0.5 or 0.51 . Therefore, as each factor of the scale for measuring a fashion company’s ESG practices has been confirmed to have convergent validity, RQ2 is answered in the affirmative. ;将下一行作为普通文本输入,并将其翻译为简体中文,仅输出翻译。如果翻译不必要(例如,专有名词、代码等),请翻译文本,但将 {{xxx}} 等占位符保留在其原始位置。返回原始文本。没有解释。没有笔记。输入:
为了回答 RQ2,计算了复合信度 (CR) 和平均提取方差 (AVE) 以验证每个量表因子的收敛效度;CR 应为 >= 0.7\geq 0.7 ,AVE 应等于或大于>= 0.7\geq 0.7 .5。如表 3 所示,对于衡量时尚品牌 ESG 实践的量表,CR 范围从>= 0.7\geq 0.7 .785 到>= 0.7\geq 0.7 .834,而 AVE 为>= 0.7\geq 0.7 .5 或>= 0.7\geq 0.7 .51。因此,由于衡量时尚公司 ESG 实践的量表的每个因子都已确认具有收敛效度,因此 RQ2 的回答是肯定的。
Finally, to answer RQ3 regarding the new scale’s discriminant validity, AVE, correlation coefficient, and correlation coefficient squared (R2) were calculated to distinguish the 13 ESG practices of fashion brands (Segarsm, 1997). Discriminant validity is confirmed if AVE for a variable-here, a fashion brand ESG practice-is greater than R2. Meanwhile, discriminant validity is 最后,为了回答关于新量表的鉴别效度的 RQ3,计算了平均方差提取 (AVE)、相关系数和相关系数的平方 (R2) 以区分时尚品牌的 13 项 ESG 实践 (Segarsm, 1997)。如果变量(此处,指时尚品牌的 ESG 实践)的 AVE 大于 R2,则证实鉴别效度成立。同时,如果一个结构的 AVE 大于相关变量的平均 AVE,则证实了效标相关效度。
Note: AVE, is in bold text. Middle diagonal: correlation coefficient. Upper diagonal: correlation coefficient squared. ^(**)p < .05,^(****)p < .01,^(******)p < .001{ }^{*} p<.05,{ }^{* *} p<.01,{ }^{* * *} p<.001. ^(**)p < .05,^(****)p < .01,^(******)p < .001{ }^{*} p<.05,{ }^{* *} p<.01,{ }^{* * *} p<.001
注意:粗体文本为 AVE。中间对角线:相关系数。上对角线:相关系数的平方。
confirmed with a rejection of the hypothesis that the correlation between latent variables ( varphi=1.0\varphi=1.0 ) is the same; that is, when varphi\varphi (correlation coefficient) +-2xx\pm 2 \times standard error does not contain 1 at the 95%95 \% confidence interval (CI). As can be seen in Table 5, R2 = 0.398-0.4770.398-0.477, which is lower than the minimum AVE of 0.5 , and the hypothesis that the correlation between all latent variables was the same was rejected, thus indicating that the discriminant validity of the fashion brand ESG practices scale was secured (Fornell & Larcker, 1981), which therefore also answered RQ3 in the 确认的相关假设被拒绝,即潜变量( varphi=1.0\varphi=1.0 )之间的相关系数相同;也就是说,当 varphi\varphi (相关系数) +-2xx\pm 2 \times 标准误差在 95%95 \% 置信区间(CI)中不包含 varphi\varphi 时。从表 5 中可以看出,R2 = 0.398-0.4770.398-0.477 ,低于 varphi=1.0\varphi=1.0 .5 的最小 AVE,拒绝了所有潜变量之间相关性相同的假设,这意味着时尚品牌 ESG 实践量表的区分效度得到保证(Fornell & Larcker,1981),因此也回答了 RQ3。
affirmative. Table 4 presents the findings regarding the discriminant validity.
Overall, the study results indicate that the scale developed in this work to measure a fashion brand’s ESG management according to its ESG practices has both convergent validity (RQ2) and discriminant validity (RQ3). In this study, the scale is tested for its ability to investigate the relationships between a fashion brand’s ESG practices, its reputation, and consumer purchase intention. 总的来说,本研究的结果表明,本研究中开发的根据 ESG 实践衡量时尚品牌 ESG 管理的量表具有收敛效度(RQ2)和区分效度(RQ3)。在本研究中,对该量表进行了测试,以检验其考察时尚品牌 ESG 实践、声誉和消费者购买意愿之间关系的能力。
TABLE 5 Mediating effects of fashion brand reputation on the effects of brand ESG practices on purchase intention. 品牌信誉对品牌 ESG 实践对顾客购买意图的影响的中介效应。
4.6 ESG practices, brand reputation, and purchase intention of fashion brands
If a mediated model analysis finds a significant mediator, then there is a mediating effect if the indirect effect-i.e., the effect of the independent variable on the dependent variable through the mediation-is significant. As can be seen in Table 5, model 1 confirms a mediator in the effect of fashion brand ESG practices, which is an independent variable, on brand reputation. In a regression analysis, the effect of fashion brand ESG practices on brand reputation was found to be significant and positive ( beta=0.63\beta=0.63, p=0.000p=0.000 ). 如果中介模型分析发现一个重要的中介变量,那么如果间接效应(即自变量通过中介对因变量的效应)是显著的,则存在中介效应。如表 5 所示,模型 p=0.000p=0.000 确认了时尚品牌环境、社会和治理 (ESG) 实践对品牌声誉(自变量)的影响中的中介作用。在回归分析中,发现时尚品牌 ESG 实践对品牌声誉的影响是显著且正面的( beta=0.63\beta=0.63 , p=0.000p=0.000 )。
In the second model, the effect on purchase intention was verified by introducing the independent variable of fashion brand ESG practices and the mediator of brand reputation. In the analysis, brand ESG practices (beta=0.23,p=0.000)(\beta=0.23, p=0.000) and reputation (beta=0.7,p=0.000)(\beta=0.7, p=0.000) were both found to have significant and positive effects on purchase intention. In the third model, fashion brand ESG practices and purchase intention were respectively input as the independent and 在第二模型中,通过引入时尚品牌 ESG 实践的独立变量和品牌声誉的中介变量,验证了其对购买意向的影响。在分析中,发现品牌 ESG 实践 (beta=0.23,p=0.000)(\beta=0.23, p=0.000) 和声誉 (beta=0.7,p=0.000)(\beta=0.7, p=0.000) 对购买意向均具有显著的正向影响。在第三模型中,将时尚品牌 ESG 实践和购买意向分别作为独立变量和
dependent variables to examine the total effect of a brand’s ESG practices on purchase intention. The analysis confirmed that the independent variable had a significant positive effect (beta=0.68,p=(\beta=0.68, p= 0.000 ) on the dependent variable. 使用自变量来检验品牌 ESG 实践对购买意向的总影响。分析证实,自变量对因变量存在显著的正向影响( (beta=0.68,p=(\beta=0.68, p=(beta=0.68,p=(\beta=0.68, p= .000)。
Further, the magnitude of the indirect effect of ESG practices on purchase intention through reputation was 0.45 , with a lower limit of 0.36 and an upper limit of 0.53 . As 0 was not within the 95%CI95 \% \mathrm{CI}, the mediating effect of fashion brand reputation was considered to be statistically significant. Thus, the results indicate that the effect of fashion brand ESG practices on purchase intention was partially mediated by brand reputation, and that H 1 and H 2 were both supported. Tables 6 through 8 present the details of the mediating relationships for each of the dimensions of ESG practices, environment, social, and governance. 更进一步,ESG 实践对购买意愿的间接影响通过声誉的路径的影响系数为 95%CI95 \% \mathrm{CI} .45,下限为 95%CI95 \% \mathrm{CI} .36,上限为 95%CI95 \% \mathrm{CI} .53。由于 95%CI95 \% \mathrm{CI} 不在 95% 的置信区间内,因此时尚品牌声誉的中介效应被认为是统计显著的。 因此,结果表明,时尚品牌 ESG 实践对购买意愿的影响部分地通过品牌声誉的中介作用,并且 H1 和 H2 均得到支持。 表格 6 到 8 展示了 ESG 实践的每个维度(环境、社会和治理)的中介关系的详细信息。
Table 6 presents the effects of the independent variable of a fashion brand’s environmental practices on that brand’s reputation # 表 6 显示了时装品牌的环境实践中的自变量对其声誉的影响
TABLE 7 Mediation effects of fashion brand reputation on the effects of brand social practices on purchase intention. 品牌声誉对品牌社会行为对购买意愿影响的中介效应
^(**)p < .05,^(****)p < .01,^(******)p < .001{ }^{*} p<.05,{ }^{* *} p<.01,{ }^{* * *} p<.001.
as a mediator in the first model. The regression analysis revealed that a brand’s environmental practices had a significant positive effect on its reputation ( beta=0.49,p=0.000\beta=0.49, p=0.000 ). In the second model, the effect on purchase intention was verified by introducing the brand’s environmental practices as an independent variable and the reputation as a mediator, and environmental practices ( beta=0.16\beta=0.16, p=0.000p=0.000 ) and reputation ( beta=0.74,p=0.000\beta=0.74, p=0.000 ) were both found to have significant positive effects on purchase intention. In the third model, brand environmental practices and purchase intention were respectively input as the independent and dependent variables to examine the total effect of environmental practices on purchase intention. The results of this analysis showed that the independent variable had a significant and positive effect ( beta=0.52,p=0.000\beta=0.52, p=0.000 ) on the dependent variable. Moreover, the magnitude of the indirect effect of the environmental practices on purchase intention through reputation was 0.36 , with a lower limit of 0.28 and an upper limit of 0.44 . Thus, the influence of a fashion brand’s environmental practices on purchase intention was partially mediated by brand reputation; H1-1 and H2-1 were therefore supported. 作为第一个模型中的中介。回归分析揭示,品牌的环保实践对其声誉产生了显著的积极影响( beta=0.49,p=0.000\beta=0.49, p=0.000 )。在第二个模型中,通过将品牌的环保实践作为自变量,声誉作为中介,验证了对购买意向的影响,结果发现环保实践( beta=0.16\beta=0.16 , p=0.000p=0.000 )和声誉( beta=0.74,p=0.000\beta=0.74, p=0.000 )对购买意向均有显著的积极影响。在第三个模型中,品牌环保实践和购买意向分别作为自变量和因变量输入,以检验环保实践对购买意向的总体影响。该分析结果表明,自变量对因变量有显著的正向影响( beta=0.52,p=0.000\beta=0.52, p=0.000 )。此外,环保实践对购买意向通过声誉产生的间接效应量为 beta=0.49,p=0.000\beta=0.49, p=0.000 .36,下限为 beta=0.49,p=0.000\beta=0.49, p=0.000 .28,上限为 beta=0.49,p=0.000\beta=0.49, p=0.000 .44。 因此,时尚品牌环境实践对购买意愿的影响部分地受到品牌声誉的中介作用;因此,H1-1 和 H2-1 得到支持。
4.6.2 Fashion brand social practices, brand reputation, and consumer purchase intention
Table 7 lists the effects of the independent variable of the social practices of a fashion brand on the brand’s reputation as a mediator in the first model. The results of the regression analysis showed that a brand’s social practices had a significant positive effect on its reputation ( beta=0.35,p=0.000\beta=0.35, p=0.000 ). In the second model, the effect on customer purchase intention was verified by introducing the brand’s social practices as an independent variable and the brand reputation as a mediator. The analysis revealed that both brand social practices ( beta=0.1,p=0.000\beta=0.1, p=0.000 ) and brand reputation (beta=0.77,p=0.000)(\beta=0.77, p=0.000) had significant positive effects on purchase intention. In the third model, the brand social practices and consumer purchase intention were respectively input as the independent variable and the dependent variable to examine the total influence of social practices on purchase intention. In the analysis, the effect of the independent variable on the dependent variable was found to be significant and positive ( beta=0.37,p=0.000\beta=0.37, p=0.000 ). Further, the magnitude of the indirect 表格 7 列出了第一模型中时尚品牌社会实践自变量对品牌声誉作为中介变量的影响。回归分析结果表明,品牌社会实践对其声誉有显著的正向影响 ( beta=0.35,p=0.000\beta=0.35, p=0.000 )。在第二模型中,通过引入品牌社会实践作为自变量、品牌声誉作为中介变量,验证了对消费者购买意愿的影响。分析结果表明,品牌社会实践 ( beta=0.1,p=0.000\beta=0.1, p=0.000 ) 和品牌声誉 (beta=0.77,p=0.000)(\beta=0.77, p=0.000) 均对购买意愿有显著的正向影响。在第三模型中,分别输入品牌社会实践和消费者购买意愿作为自变量和因变量,考察社会实践对购买意愿的总影响。分析结果表明,自变量对因变量的影响显著且为正向 ( beta=0.37,p=0.000\beta=0.37, p=0.000 )。进一步,间接影响的大小
effect of the social practices on purchase intention through brand reputation was 0.27 , with a lower limit of 0.2 and an upper limit of 0.34 . Thus, the influence of a fashion brand’s social practices on consumer purchase intention was partially mediated by brand reputation, and H1-2 and H2-2 were both supported. 社交行为对购买意愿的影响通过品牌声誉为 0.27,下限为 0.2,上限为 0.34。 因此,时尚品牌的社会行为对消费者购买意愿的影响受到品牌声誉的局部中介作用,H1-2 和 H2-2 都得到支持。
The results of the first model in Table 8 show the effect of a fashion brand’s governance practices as the independent variable on the brand’s reputation as a mediator. The regression analysis results showed that governance practices had a significant positive effect on brand reputation ( beta=0.5,p=0.000\beta=0.5, p=0.000 ). In the second model, the effect on purchase intention was verified by introducing governance practices as an independent variable and brand reputation as a mediator. This analysis found that both governance practices ( beta=\beta=0.18,p=0.0000.18, p=0.000 ) and brand reputation ( beta=0.72,p=0.000\beta=0.72, p=0.000 ) had significant and positive effects on purchase intention. In the third model, governance practices and customer purchase intention were respectively input as the independent variable and the dependent variable to examine the total effect of a brand’s governance practices on consumer purchase intention. This analysis indicated that the independent variable had a significant and positive effect ( beta=0.54\beta=0.54, p=0.000p=0.000 ) on the dependent variable. Further, the magnitude of the indirect effect of the governance practices on purchase intention through brand reputation was 0.36 , with a lower limit of 0.29 and an upper limit of 0.43 . Thus, the influence of a fashion brand’s governance practices on consumer purchase intention was partially mediated by the brand’s reputation, and H1-3\mathrm{H} 1-3 and H2-3\mathrm{H} 2-3 were supported. 表 8 中第一个模型的结果显示,作为自变量的时尚品牌的治理实践对其作为中介变量的品牌声誉有影响。回归分析结果表明,治理实践对品牌声誉有显著的正向影响( beta=0.5,p=0.000\beta=0.5, p=0.000 )。在第二个模型中,通过引入治理实践作为自变量,品牌声誉作为中介变量来验证其对购买意愿的影响。分析发现,治理实践( beta=\beta=0.18,p=0.0000.18, p=0.000 )和品牌声誉( beta=0.72,p=0.000\beta=0.72, p=0.000 )都对购买意愿有显著的正向影响。在第三个模型中,分别将治理实践和顾客购买意愿作为自变量和因变量,检验品牌治理实践对消费者购买意愿的总的影响。分析结果表明,自变量对因变量有显著的正向影响( beta=0.54\beta=0.54 , p=0.000p=0.000 )。 此外,治理实践通过品牌声誉对购买意愿的间接效应的大小为 beta=0.5,p=0.000\beta=0.5, p=0.000 .36,下限为 beta=0.5,p=0.000\beta=0.5, p=0.000 .29,上限为 beta=0.5,p=0.000\beta=0.5, p=0.000 .43。
## The original text remains the same. 因此,品牌治理实践对消费者购买意愿的影响受到品牌信誉的**部分**中介。支持假设 H1-3\mathrm{H} 1-3 和 H2-3\mathrm{H} 2-3 。
##
5 Discussion
Although ESG practices have represented a relevant research topic since the early 2000s, they have taken on increased importance following the paradigm shifts demanded by the COVID-19 pandemic. A wide variety of stakeholders-consumers, 虽然 ESG 实践自 2000 年代初期以来一直是一个相关的研究课题,但其重要性随着 COVID-19 大流行引发的范式转变而提升。各种利益相关者,包括消费者、
TABLE 8 Mediation effects of fashion brand reputation on the effects of brand environmental practices on purchase intention. 时尚品牌声誉对品牌环保行为对购买意愿影响的中介效应。
Channel
beta\beta
Se
t
R^(2)R^{2}
pp
Model 1
Governance rarr\rightarrow Reputation
0.5
0.04
12.13
0.27
. 0000^(******)0000^{* * *}
Model 2
Governance rarr\rightarrow Purchase Intention (c)
0.18
0.04
4.3
0.57
. 000^(******)000{ }^{* * *}
Reputation rarr\rightarrow Purchase Intention
0.72
0.04
16.91
Model 3
Governance rarr\rightarrow Purchase Intention ( t )
^(**)p < .05,^(****)p < .01,^(******)p < .001{ }^{*} p<.05,{ }^{* *} p<.01,{ }^{* * *} p<.001.
shareholders, investors, employees, community residents, etc.,-now consider social responsibility, eco-friendly policies, and stable, transparent governance to be important criteria for judging a company’s authenticity and reliability, and ultimately, its value. These stakeholders have also been monitoring companies with an increasingly critical eye (Blowfeld & Murray, 2019), and companies that do not actively engage in ESG and CSR practices can face criticism from consumers and even lose business. 股东、投资者、员工、社区居民等,—现在认为社会责任、环保政策和稳定、透明的治理是衡量一家公司真实性和可靠性的重要标准,最终也是其价值所在。这些利益相关者也越来越严格地监督公司(Blowfeld 和 Murray,2019),那些没有积极参与 ESG 和 CSR 实践的公司可能会面临消费者的批评,甚至失去业务。
For example, the global energy company Exxon Mobil generates tremendous amounts of carbon dioxide in refining oil, and its shareholders have called for various carbon reduction efforts in response. However, Exxon Mobil rejected the demands of its shareholders and continued its business practices, which led to a customer boycott and a decline in corporate value. By contrast, Nestlé, which provides long-term support to coffee bean growers and local communities in South America, and Ottogi, which maintains a 99%99 \% regular employment rate and performs a range of social contribution activities, have achieved results such as increased sales and improved corporate reputations by not ignoring shareholder demands. ESG management and practices have become globally relevant, and they now even serve as standards for investors. 例如,全球能源公司埃克森美孚在炼油过程中产生大量二氧化碳,其股东为此呼吁采取各种减碳措施。然而,埃克森美孚拒绝了股东的要求,并继续其经营方式,导致客户抵制和公司价值下降。相比之下,雀巢长期支持南美洲咖啡豆种植者和当地社区,CJ 集团在韩国一直保持着 99%99 \% 的正规雇佣率,并开展了一系列社会贡献活动,通过不忽视股东诉求,实现了销售增长和公司声誉提升等成果。ESG 管理和实践已成为全球性议题,如今甚至成为投资者的标准。
As such, it has been argued that sustainable development can be achieved when companies consider transparent management such as eco-friendliness, social responsibility management, and governance improvement. Consistent with this, ESG management has become a global corporate management method and investment standard for investors. 因此,当企业考虑透明管理(如环保、社会责任管理和治理改进)时,有人认为可以实现可持续发展。与此一致,ESG 管理已成为全球企业管理方法和投资者投资标准。
The importance of ESG management is continually growing for fashion brands that want to secure competitiveness and protect their stakeholders. The fashion industry has a close relationship with the Environmental and Social aspects, from production to the disposal of products. As awareness of climate change grows around the world, the fashion industry is increasingly being pointed to as the main culprit of environmental pollution, and fashion brands have recently been striving for ESG management by adopting ecofriendly methods or launching products targeting the socially disadvantaged. 时装品牌若要确保其竞争力和保护其利益相关者,就需要日益重视环境、社会和治理 (ESG) 管理。时装业从生产到产品处理都与环境和社会方面息息相关。随着全世界对气候变化认识的增强,时装业正逐渐被指认为环境污染的主要罪魁祸首,时尚品牌近年来越来越重视 ESG 管理,通过采用环保方法或推出针对社会弱势群体 的产品来实现可持续发展。
Until recently, developments in the textile and clothing industries have focused on technology and cost (Niinimäki & Hassi, 2011). However, fashion brands have begun to recognize the importance of ESG practices in securing competitiveness and maintaining positive relationships with customers as well as protecting stakeholders. The textile/apparel industry is very important to the economy in terms of trade, employment, investment, and revenue worldwide. However, there is a significant loss due to overproduction and a “throw away” culture (Filho et al., 2019). Since the 2000s, the fashion industry has received criticism and warnings from environmental and consumer groups regarding the extensive negative environmental impacts of its work, and brands have shown gradual increases in their ESG practices. ESG management and practices are considered to be long-term strategies that affect corporate sustainability, and the fashion industry is expected to make many such ESG changes in the future. 近年来,纺织服装行业的发展一直集中于技术和成本(Niinimäki & Hassi,2011)。然而,时尚品牌开始认识到环境、社会和治理 (ESG) 实践在确保竞争力和与客户保持良好关系以及保护利益相关者方面的重要性。 纺织/服装行业在贸易、就业、投资和全球收入方面对经济非常重要。然而,由于生产过剩和“一次性使用”文化,导致了巨大的损失(Filho 等人,2019)。自 2000 年代以来,时尚行业一直受到环保和消费者团体的批评和警告,因为其工作对环境产生了巨大的负面影响,而品牌在其 ESG 实践方面也逐渐有所增加。 ESG 管理和实践被认为是影响企业可持续发展的长期战略,预计时尚行业在未来将进行许多此类 ESG 变革。
However, to this point, ESG management scales have been too broad to apply to specific fields, and due to the different standards presented, there have been few scientific and empirically verified scales. In particular, there have been no scholarly investigations of ESG practices in the context of the fashion industry. The primary outcome of this research was a scale that was developed via the Delphi method and made up of individual items that mark a fashion brand as one that follows ESG practices. The produced scale encompasses 13 ESG practices that fashion brands should follow under the three domains of ESG, which constitute the three factors from the exploratory analysis: environment, society, and governance. The items for each factor of ESG practices of fashion brands derived from this research are as follows. 然而,截至目前,ESG 管理量表过于宽泛,难以应用于特定领域,并且由于提出的标准不同,科学的、经验证的量表很少。尤其是在服装行业的背景下,还没有学者对 ESG 实践进行过研究。这项研究的主要成果是一个通过德尔菲法开发的量表,该量表由将一个时装品牌标记为遵循 ESG 实践的单个项目组成。生成的量表包含了 13 项 ESG 实践,时装品牌应在 ESG 的三个领域内遵循这些实践,这三个领域构成了探索性分析中的三个因素:环境、社会和治理。根据本研究得出的时装品牌 ESG 实践的每个因素的项目如下。
First, Environment was represented by five measurement items: “Develops eco-friendly materials,” “Uses eco-friendly materials,” “Manufactures products made with fibers upcycled from recycled waste products such as plastics”’ “Recycles discarded items and waste,” and “Collects expired products and makes new ones,” These items involve the development and use of eco-friendly materials and waste management. This is interpreted as the result of fashion brand consumers demanding not only products that use eco-friendly 首先,环境由五个指标衡量:“开发环保材料”、“使用环保材料”、“制造用回收废物如塑料制成的纤维再生产品”、“回收废弃物品和废物”、“收集过期产品并制造新产品”。这些项目涉及环保材料的开发和使用以及废物管理。这被解释为时装品牌消费者不仅要求使用环保材料的产品,而且要求使用对环境产生积极影响的产品。
materials, but also high-level eco-friendly activities such as fiber utilization using waste (recycle), waste recycling (upcycling), and product recycling (reuse). 利用废物(回收)、废物再循环(升级再造)和产品再循环(重复使用)等高水平的生态友好活动,同时利用这些材料
Second, Social was represented by four measurement items: “Does not use animal materials such as leather or fur,” “Implements a certification program to monitor potential animal abuse in the production process,” “Focuses on gender diversity and equality,” and “Donates a portion of sales to environmental organizations,” These items represent the contribution of fashion brands to social issues related to fashion. Fashion brand consumers do not want animal abuse associated with the use of animal materials such as leather and fur utilized in the textile industry, which has a close relationship with fashion brands. Moreover, considering the impact of the fashion industry on environmental destruction, consumers want to donate a portion of their sales to environmental organizations. Interestingly, items related to gender diversity and gender equality were drawn, which is interpreted to be part of the recent trend of consumers’ perception that they should contribute to improving gender awareness while pursuing “genderless,” a way of dressing regardless of gender in the fashion industry. “其次,社会责任由四项指标衡量:‘不使用皮革或毛皮等动物材料’、‘实施认证计划以监控生产过程中潜在的动物虐待’、‘关注性别多样性和平等’,以及‘将部分销售额捐赠给环保组织’。这些指标代表了时尚品牌对与时尚相关的社会议题的贡献。时尚品牌消费者不希望与纺织行业中皮革和毛皮等动物材料的使用相关的动物虐待行为联系在一起,而纺织行业与时尚品牌关系密切。此外,考虑到时尚产业对环境破坏的影响,消费者希望将部分销售额捐赠给环保组织。有趣的是,与性别多样性和性别平等相关的指标被绘制出来,这被解释为消费者最近一种趋势的一部分,即他们认为在追求时尚行业中不分性别的着装方式‘无性别’的同时,应该为提高性别意识做出贡献。
Third, Governance is represented by four measurement items: ‘Implements effective management through experts in each field’, ‘Has a consistent brand identity’, ‘Continuously manages the CEO’s reputation’, and ‘Provides excellent customer service’. These items represent reputation management through the consistent and effective management of fashion brands. Fashion brand consumers want fashion brands to maintain their brand identity through professional and effective management based on consultations with experts in each field. Further, consumers want high-quality customer service that is directly related to consumer needs. This is interpreted to mean that consumers want to continue to manage the reputation of CEOs and brands through these governance activities. ‘治理’由四个衡量指标表示:‘通过各个领域的专家实施有效管理’、‘具有一致的品牌形象’、‘持续管理首席执行官的声誉’和‘提供卓越的客户服务’。这些指标代表着通过对时尚品牌的一致且有效的管理进行声誉管理。时尚品牌消费者希望时尚品牌能够通过各个领域的专家咨询,通过专业而有效的管理维护其品牌形象。此外,消费者希望提供与消费者需求直接相关的优质客户服务。 这被解释为消费者希望通过这些治理活动继续管理首席执行官和品牌的声誉。
Further, the ESG practices from this research scale were confirmed to have significant positive direct effects on a fashion brand’s reputation along with positive effects on customer purchase intention through brand reputation. These results have the following practical and theoretical implications. The fashion brand ESG practices developed in this research secured nomological validity through research results that significantly affect purchase intention and reputation related to fashion brand ESG management Therefore, the fashion brand ESG practices developed in this research can be used to verify the effects of various variables through the research model developed in subsequent studies. From a practical point of view, these results show that fashion brands’ ESG management practice considering the ESG practices items developed in this research leads to enhanced brand reputation, which can lead to increased sales. 此外,本研究量表中的 ESG 实践被证实对服装品牌的声誉具有显着正向直接影响,并通过品牌声誉对顾客购买意愿产生积极影响。这些结果具有以下实践和理论意义。本研究开发的时装品牌 ESG 实践通过显著影响时装品牌 ESG 管理相关的购买意愿和声誉的研究结果,获得了效标效度。因此,本研究开发的时装品牌 ESG 实践可用于后续研究中通过研究模型验证各种变量的影响。从实践的角度来看,这些结果表明,时装品牌考虑本研究开发的 ESG 实践项目进行 ESG 管理实践,能够提升品牌声誉,从而提高销售额。
ESG as a management practice enhances a company’s reputation, which increases consumers’ trust in the company and satisfaction with its practices; this in turn leads to repurchase behavior (Yu & Han, 2021). Reputation is a universal value judgment about a company (Bromley, 2000), and it develops positively over time as a result of a company’s continuous, longterm efforts (Gray & Balmer, 1998); short-term ESG practices will only have slight impacts on brand reputation. Positive reputation impacts will only be derived from long-term ESG practices in the fashion industry, which should lead to increased sales. 公司声誉提升会增强消费者对公司的信任和对其行为的满意度,从而促使回购行为 (Yu & Han, 2021)。声誉是社会对公司的普遍价值判断 (Bromley, 2000),会随着公司持续、长期努力而正向发展 (Gray & Balmer, 1998);短期 ESG 实践对品牌声誉的影响微乎其微。只有长期 ESG 实践才能带来正面的声誉影响,并最终促进服装行业的销售增长。
The fashion brand ESG practices scale developed in the present work are expected to provide a standard by which consumers can choose reliable, sustainable brands, and a standard for individual brands to measure whether they are conforming to ESG tenets. Brands that follow the ESG practices in the scale will improve their reputations with consumers, and positive brand experiences are expected to lead to increased profits. 时尚品牌采用 ESG 实践的做法将为消费者提供选择可靠和可持续品牌的标准,并为品牌自身衡量其是否符合 ESG 原则提供标准。遵循量表中 ESG 实践的品牌将提升其在消费者中的声誉,积极的品牌体验预计将带来更高的利润。
6 Conclusion and limitations
This research was conducted to derive and empirically verify items that can be used to measure the ESG management of fashion brands, which are primary actors in environmental and social problems. This research provides the following theoretical implications. 这项研究旨在推导出和实证检验可用于衡量时装品牌 ESG 管理的指标,时装品牌是环境和社会问题的首要行为者。这项研究提供了以下理论意义。
First, expertise was enhanced by developing measurement items on a scale for a group of experts composed of various stakeholders. Moreover, through an expanded research design that combines quantitative and qualitative research, this study expanded the research topics and scope of the analysis methodology used for fashion brands, for which there is still a lack of quantitative and qualitative research cases related to ESG management. It gathered a group of experts targeting various stakeholders of fashion brands, including fashion brand CEOs, fashion magazine CEOs, related academic professors and graduate students, and consumers who are highly involved in fashion brands. Through a multidimensional and scientific verification process, a tool was developed that could be used to measure the reputation of a fashion brand, and through this, high levels of statistical reliability and validity were secured. 首先,通过为由不同利益相关者组成的专家组制定量表上的测量项目,提高了专业知识。此外,通过结合定量和定性研究的扩展研究设计,本研究扩展了分析方法的研究主题和范围,用于时尚品牌,时尚品牌在 ESG 管理方面仍然缺乏定量和定性研究案例。它汇集了一批针对时尚品牌不同利益相关者的专家,包括时尚品牌 CEO、时尚杂志 CEO、相关高校教授和研究生、以及高度参与时尚品牌的消费者。通过多维科学的验证过程,开发出可用于衡量时尚品牌声誉的工具,并通过此,确保了较高的统计信度和效度。
Second, this research was specifically conducted to examine fashion brands that have a close relationship with ESG management. Considering that global fashion companies are predicting ESG management for sustainable development, they have developed ESG management evaluation items that the fashion industry can refer to and apply. The fashion brand ESG management scale developed in this research is expected to provide guidelines for brand reputation management that can help fashion brands in the future. 其次,本研究专门针对与 ESG 管理密切相关的时尚品牌进行。鉴于全球时尚公司正在预测可持续发展的 ESG 管理,它们已经制定了时尚产业可以参考和应用的 ESG 管理评估指标。本研究中开发的时尚品牌 ESG 管理量表预计将为未来时尚品牌的声誉管理提供指导。
As such, this research derived items to measure fashion brand ESG management through various approaches. Moreover, the reliability and validity of these items were secured through multidimensional verification, and significant effects on reputation and purchase intention were empirically verified to provide various theoretical and practical imitations. However, this research has the following limitations. 然而,这项研究也存在以下局限性:
First, the Online Consumer Survey conducted a study targeting only fashion brand consumers. Although the Delphi study collected opinions from various fields, the Online Consumer Survey did not consider various stakeholders. Due to the nature of online surveys, it was difficult to control the conditions of the survey participants. In the future, if an environment were to control the survey participants is secured and research is conducted on various stakeholders related to fashion brands, this would help extract various factors and items and therefore obtain generalized results. 首先,网络消费者调查只针对时尚品牌消费者进行了一项研究。虽然德尔菲研究收集了来自各个领域的意见,但网络消费者调查没有考虑各种利益相关者。由于网络调查的性质,很难控制调查参与者的条件。未来,如果能够确保一个环境来控制调查参与者并对与时尚品牌相关的各种利益相关者进行研究,这将有助于提取各种因素和项目,从而获得概括性的结果。
Second, it is necessary for future studies to more deeply explore the relationship between various variables in addition to reputation and purchase intention in the future. This will help clarify the role of 其次,未来的研究需要更深入地探讨声誉和购买意向之外的各种变量之间的关系。这将有助于阐明声誉的作用
ESG management in terms of marketing communication and establish a foundation upon which a sustainable brand can be built. In addition, based on the fashion brand ESG management scale of this research, it is expected that an empirical study can be conducted to evaluate and measure the ESG management of a fashion brand while targeting a specific fashion brand. ESG 管理在营销传播和建立可持续发展的品牌基础方面至关重要。此外,根据本研究的时装品牌 ESG 管理规模,期望进行实证研究,以评估和衡量特定时装品牌的 ESG 管理。
Finally, this research was conducted with participants from Eastern cultures. Since the social perception of ESG and evaluation items may be different, meaningful results can be derived if a comparative analysis is conducted by securing responses from both Eastern and Western participants in the future. In addition, it is expected that ESG management practices and marketing communication strategies can be derived by deducing ESG practices that should be applied separately to either the East or the West as well as those that can be simultaneously applied to both the East and the West. ajunews, 2021, Hansbiz, 2021, INDUSTRY EUROPE, 2022, Sukma and Leelasantitham, 2022b. 最终,这项研究以东方文化参与者为对象进行。由于社会对 ESG 的认知和评价项目可能存在差异,如果未来能同时获得来自东方和西方参与者的反馈,并进行比较分析,就能得出有意义的结果。此外,预计可以通过推导应该分别适用于东方或西方以及可以同时适用于东西方的 ESG 实践来制定 ESG 管理实践和营销传播策略。 ajunews,2021,Hansbiz,2021,INDUSTRY EUROPE,2022,Sukma 和 Leelasantitham,2022b。
Data availability statement
The original contributions presented in the study are included in the article/supplementary material, further inquiries can be directed to the corresponding author. 文章/补充材料中包含了本研究的原创贡献,如有进一步疑问,请联系通讯作者。
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Author contributions
HY: conceptualization, methodology, analysis, writing- original draft preparation. MA: data collect, methodology, writing. EH: conceptualization, methodology, writing-review and editing. All authors contributed to the article and approved the submitted version. 概念化,方法论,分析,写作 - 初稿准备。MA:数据收集,方法论,写作。EH:概念化,方法论,写作 - 评审和编辑。所有作者都对文章做出了贡献,并批准了提交的版本。
Conflict of interest
The authors declare that the research was conducted in the absence of any commercial or financial relationships that could be construed as a potential conflict of interest. 作者声明,本研究在没有任何可能构成潜在利益冲突的商业或财务关系下进行。
Publisher's note
All claims expressed in this article are solely those of the authors and do not necessarily represent those of their affiliated organizations, or those of the publisher, the editors and the reviewers. Any product that may be evaluated in this article, or claim that may be made by its manufacturer, is not guaranteed or endorsed by the publisher. 本文中表达的所有观点均为作者个人观点,并不一定代表其所属机构或出版商、编辑和审稿人的观点。本文中可能评估的任何产品或其制造商可能做出的任何声明均不代表出版商的保证或认可。
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